Beneficial Soil Microbes WON'T WORK For You Unless You Do These Things First...
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- Опубліковано 14 кві 2024
- Glen Rabenberg, founder and CEO of Soil Works, LLC, explores the sciences behind nature's "unionized" soil microbes and explains why it's essential for growers and farmers to focus first on creating and maintaining "healthy" soil that's ready to support microbial life before applying any of these beneficial organisms.
For more information and resources, visit www.soilworksllc.com or call us at 605.260.0784.
Glen's Tools (penetrometer, EC Meter, BRIX Refractometer): www.soilworksllc.com/home-too... - Наука та технологія
There hasn't been a new video for a long time. There is nothing I look forward to more. And here is a new meeting. Thank you for not forgetting about your viewers.
I'm blown away ! ! Knowing this enables me to become a farmer, at 65 yrs old. I grew up on a farm, uneducated. I appreciate the time & effort so many people put to such good use.
I live in Tucson, AZ. My yards had what can generously be called dirt. Caliche is more like it! LOL By way of illustration, I had a job pruning some Moringa Trees, and wanted to prepare my yard to try propagating them. Well, I had time to dig some holes, but it took 45 minutes to dig one hole about a food deep (or less). Some holes could not go further down than about six inches! Yuck!
Oh, and the tree stalks did NOT propagate. Big surprise, eh? I am glad I did not have a penetrometer at the time, as it would likely have BROKEN in my concrete yard! LOL So sad...
Well, my wife was still operating the yardwork business we started together, and I had heard about Back to Eden "covering" with woodchips, and also what is called grass fed gardens. Well, my son works with her and he likes to stomp weeds and such in large Brut garbage cans and put the "pellets" that creates in the trailer. It offloads easier at the dump, he said.
Well, I had him put them all over my front yard. So, in a few weeks, and a lot of overhauls (major clean up projects), the yard was literally two feet thick in organic material! And, it stayed that way for maybe six months as I worked in other parts of the yards. Eventually, I got in there with a pitchfork to loosen it all up and spread it more evenly, and the dirt underneath had softened dramatically. After a year, I was able to put a tree in my front yard by uncovering a place (moving the mulch) and digging a hole...with my bare hands!...in a few minutes.
Every load they bring me has a full compliment of microbes. So, I get a huge variety (I don't say dive er city) of great "flocks" of microbes to build my soil. Now, I have a great food forest going (still short, but the trees are growing) and have not watered all year! In the Sonoran Desert! I'm loving it!
Look into tank's soil
They are based in Tucson.
One of the best and cheaper than a lot of garbage souls.
I'm in Az too but can't grow much in the ground other than trees that I've grown big in pots, due to gophers eating everything in a nite...
Keep up the good work and search up living soil. So many good channels out there.
✌️💚🍉
Its more likely your mulching retained moisture in that arrid soil... microbes enjoyed too. But in your specific case moister retention was the magic bullet
@@crabtrap That mulch, acting as a cover, retained the moisture that the microbes need to survive is not "more likely." It is, "also a significant fact."
I focused on the diversity of microbes, but activating God's automatic drip irrigation system is the first thing you to. It is the 80% of the 80-20 rule of growing stuff.
@@busker153 plants can live without microbes but not without water. Its why u can do the cuttings and water vase. Its possible 'some' microbes are active in your desert soil, but not much
@@crabtrap No plant on earth grows without microbes. Rooting and "growing" are different. Keep that plant in only water and it dies.
This is the quickest and clearer tutorial on fixing soil I have seen. It covers so much in so little time in a simple way.
I watched hundreds of videos depending soil basics and stuff... and YOU are the first one gettin it done to pack the whole video full of priceless information within minutes....
U have a new customer - just by this one video. Who is able to provide valuable information for free - should benefit from adequate clients :D
My soil is red fluffy.
I have planted olive trees and citrus trees and fig trees and have never added anything to feed the trees not even at the initial stage of planting.
My olive trees and citrus trees have dark green leaves and growing strong.
No curling no drying out nothing.
Only pruning i do & i always cut the roots back when removing from the pot after purchasing from garden centre.
Sometimes i even use a bread knife to cut the root ball sides and bottom clean to start the root system fresh in the ground
It works magnificently.
Super video. I look forward to you videos. Soil Works University is so contrarian to model farm techniques. I trust this science and love these videos. We are in the Fringes of a soil stewardship revolution.
Finally the algorithm suggested something useful to me. Great video
This was an amazing video, no one has explained it that simply .
He's back! Keep the videos coming👍
So many different points of view out there. Wow!
As our cherry tree's in orchards got bigger, and as market prices dropped, farmers began using bigger and and heavier tractors, in part was good to mulch the pruning's in to the grass, as trying to me more efficient, as well as herbicide sprays. I suspect soil compacting, and in the group of years when rain fall was suffiant and trees where smaller, only a small drip of water to each side of the big tress excisted,but now huge and doing a lot of "photo-transperaiton". I tried to suggest to keep watching moisture levels in the soil, and to water early yet lightly, to change from a small location of a drip, to a micro sprinkler thus to get moisture to the outer parts of tree and the tractor row soil, where the large tree roots are growing or need to grow out to. thus more active nutrient flow on the slopes of orchards, as possibly using more of the active microbes. but also trying to get some moisture in the soils before any temperature spike so farmers are not fighting for water supply. where as many farmers where hit with very hot days over 40c that damaged the crop, had not been taking there early spring moisture readings, getting irrigation set up and running too late in the season. the cherries where also a dull or bitter flavour, thus I suspect that it was not climate change, yet that over the years the size of the trees creeped up, meaning that more and more work had to be done, to what could have been a wonderful heavy crop, but I sense that not all the roots of the trees had such access to water and nutrients. and it might be more effective to start burning some of the pruning. to get ash and bio char to retain water. sort of thus more as a forest might do. as I am concerned that many can not conceptualize the bigger huge interdisciplinary science, where we then can grow crops more tolerant to huge temperature changes, rather then blame our poor practice on climate change.
Thank you 4 sharing such good and important knoledge, I have I think a good idea to improve earth conditions in general, get some 2 feet long & 4" diameter plastic tubes and drill some 1/2 " holes from the middle to the end, and dig them in the soil, put some clean manure & soaked woodchips, plus kitchen wastes, leafs, etc, with some California earthworms, put a lid and let the worms do their work ,transforming the land with microbes & oxygen. Good luck
When I compare a soil test buying these diagnostic tools is a good idea.
Or never buy microbes.
Use korean national farming and jadam and brew your own microbes.
some good composted manure, and a broadfork. Top it off with mulch.
Basically free.
To quote meat loaf, you took the words right out of my mouth. I’m hearing the big pharma are copyrighting microbes….
Great video 🇳🇿❤️
Hello, what type of calcium, nitrate, gypsum, lime? Thank you
Nice, Bubba K and the Hula Go Go girls!!!
What EC scale is you using?
So, the wisdom is "If you can't measure it, you cannot manage it!"
Is this the same for lawns
Thanks for calling in to visit with us.
Several of these videos cover the same topics, and land at “here’s the things you want to see in your soil for it to be healthy.” But how do you actually tackle compaction, ph issues, and poor conductivity?
So in a lawn does this mean leave the clippings on the lawn
As long as the lawn doesn't get too long and you mow on a mulch setting then you'd be adding organic matter and carbon back into the soil. Added bonus, whatever you're using for a fertilizer ends up going back to the soil as well.
No pricing. Must be expensive.
Unless your land has been fertilized with artificial, industrial fertilizer, for dozens of years, I don’t think there’s any need for a “microbe pack.“ Microbes are naturally occurring organisms in soil. If you create a soil that is good for microbes, the microbes will come come naturally. Compost and some of the ingredients he recommends here, are the key. Let the worms do the rest.
What is an ideal calcium level for healthy microbe rich soils?
Usually 68% Calcium and 12% Magnesium. There are exceptions to the rule though.
Multi species cover corp.... Gabe Brown
Where do you buy these meters
The model shown in the video is manufactured by AgraTronics: a.co/d/cXHVapa
@@SoilWorksLLC-GSRCalciumHi.. can you please also share the link for that Hanna EC meter.. Thank you
@@karavi2000 Here's that link for you a.co/d/ekf2mku
So what about a soil that is a sandy loam? Are you saying microbes will not be in that soil?
All soils contain microbes (unless it's been sterilized). Is there enough oxygen and carbon in your soil to sustain biological activity? If your sandy loam is tight, that could be inhibiting biological activity.
I am sure there are microbes in my soil since I have cleared trees and brush where I am planting my orchard. My concern is that I am brewing compost tea and applying it in both a foliage spray and root drench but want to make sure my sandy soil will hold the microbes since it is less than 100-150.
Leaching is a major problem in too loose soil. Biochar ( a stable form of carbon/ nutrient rich Activated Carbon) will help keep /hold the nutrients where it can be used by your plants , not your nabers and filtered out by the loacal municipal water provider.
Lome is typically organic matter. Growing up sandy loam was the best patches of ground.
What are examples? Guess I go by a bag of sugar?
The C:N ratio can indicate different things depending on its value:
15:1 or less: The soil is typically balanced
15:1-30:1: Immobilization balances mineralization
Greater than 30:1: Microbes are consuming a lot of nitrogen, so more fertilizer may be needed
Start the year spraying a cheap soda, dish soap and epson salts to get things started
A lower C:N ratio also means more nitrogen is released during decomposition of organic matter. However, a high C:N ratio can still have positive impacts, such as improving workability, carbon sequestration, and water storage.
Apparently I don't know anything about soil.
No air and no storage for water.... Most commercial farming practices.... The soil is sterile and no living matter....
Low carbon minimal water penetration and storage capacity
Sugar and molasses is a very very bacteria only food.
Not good advice pal.
Just saying.
Lawn people have always recommended a spray of cheap soda, soap and epson salts to start a yard every spring
It always amazes me that people trying to sell their products to you always assume there is something wrong with you. This is a typical example. Nature is our friend we do not need you. Please leave farmers alone.
I am a sheepfarmer and i see everyday the level of knowledge of farmers . They have no idea !
I don't think anybody upload a video without the intention of selling something anymore.