hello mate :) i'm happy with the traxxas diffs i drive generaly 2 hours in a raw every weekend and only serivces 1 a year thats not somthing many rc hold on and center diff was puch up to 3 years ,i don't know where's an issue with traxxas building diff bad because they run smooth , are properly sealed, last long and hold a lot off stress , and there's also way enought oil in just wait that oil is bottom , most peopl put to much in , and you can change the drive cup from outside , also the driv cup canot squeez the diff inside if cvd quick's in bottom bye hard side landing , for me cool stuff , and don"t take anithing wrong its absoolluutly not agains you and its just my opinion on my experience and in any case super cool vdo :)
You know that feeling of a freshly build diff? Yeah thats the feeling i like. Like it even more if the whole truck is freshly lubricated feels verry Nice
Awesome "howto" vid. Quite a hassle to get to the centre dif. Im on the fence of drive it till it breaks or just check it on a rainy day. The gears look pretty solid and im not an extreme basher + i only run max 6 with a small 1650kv.
Thank you for your knowledge. I am trading an X-Maxx which has a clicking noise when accelerating and there is a good chance that the problem comes from its differentials. Thank you very much and have a good day. ☺
From my experience. And from the Manuel. I believe the oil level should just so the spider gears are just poking out of the oil level . Here is a photo of Manuel. Oh.. well I can't put the photo up.
...the cross pin is halfway up the spider gears. (Had to look up what you were talking about, never heard them called satiellite gears) You always wanna leave "room to breathe" in a diff, much like the oil in your car - otherwise youll be replacing something prematurely.
@@readeracingRC Even less will do. so long as the 4 gears "Pick up" oil it will transfer to the main gear, Most of the time this unit is on it's side so as long as 1 gear is running in a "bath" it will transfer to all the other parts. As we saw in the tear down it looked almost empty but if this was the case and it would be dry, the entire diff would be destroyed. Too much oil is worse than too little when it comes to gears and EP oils needed (Extreme pressures)
The one it gets me it’s the center diff, it’s one screw that is super tight I messed up 2 hex tools 🛠️ a ready I thing I just going to drive it until break’s and buy a new one 😂
My center diff “fluid” is like paste. It’s not viscous whatsoever, it resembles silly putty in areas. I can’t get it to rotate at all, should you be able to rotate anything with the center diff? Thanks for the killer video, so appreciated. 🫡
Center diff will be very very very stiff - any of the heavier weight oils are not really oils and are like a paste- Try getting 1m weight out of a bottle and it takes ages!
Can you give some more info on how you have you ESC mounted and where your receiver is? That looks really clean and is exactly what I’ve been wanting to do, keeping the ESC nice and low and looks super clean.
Great post. I just bought a x maxx last night andbim goingnto open them up out of the box. Im guessing they are pretty empty outa the box. Also what motor are you running?
I am getting 1 set of packs through my vehicle and the rear pinion and crown gears are destroying themselves, have replaced everything, tried metal shims but no matter what i do its not helped, i see you have what looks like a rubber o ring, do you have a video detailing that? I am on like the 10th diff now and could really use some advice, thanks
The biggest combo we have used was a Max 5 with 800kv motor - but found the power delivery too much for the xmaxx's handling. It was actually slower around our track than the stock motor so have gone back to that.
If you want to save some money use old bearings from the wheels (the smaller ones) they slide on perfectly and some thread lock will keep them in place. It's free and you can either destroy the bearing to remove the other larger outer ring (not needed) or leave as is. Works a treat.
hello mate :) i'm happy with the traxxas diffs i drive generaly 2 hours in a raw every weekend and only serivces 1 a year thats not somthing many rc hold on and center diff was puch up to 3 years ,i don't know where's an issue with traxxas building diff bad because they run smooth , are properly sealed, last long and hold a lot off stress , and there's also way enought oil in just wait that oil is bottom , most peopl put to much in , and you can change the drive cup from outside , also the driv cup canot squeez the diff inside if cvd quick's in bottom bye hard side landing , for me cool stuff , and don"t take anithing wrong its absoolluutly not agains you and its just my opinion on my experience and in any case super cool vdo :)
Thanks for the comment. All are welcome. Compared to other makes they are pretty good.
Oh Marc, ton anglais est impeccable, pas une faute j suis choqué 😁🤘
Awesome Video! I'm going to have to do this to my Xmaxx soon. Very Informative! Great Job 👍 👌 👍
Excellent informative video once again! I kept blowing my center diff, it was very frustrating. Now I know why, I will make sure to not overfill!
Glad it helped!
You know that feeling of a freshly build diff? Yeah thats the feeling i like. Like it even more if the whole truck is freshly lubricated feels verry Nice
Oh yes!
Quality vid……..this will help me no end 👍
Thanks for feedback
Thank you for very helpful video.😊
Bought mine used last week, diffs probably dont look amazing... Good video!
Awesome "howto" vid. Quite a hassle to get to the centre dif. Im on the fence of drive it till it breaks or just check it on a rainy day. The gears look pretty solid and im not an extreme basher + i only run max 6 with a small 1650kv.
Run it til it breaks!
Thank you for your knowledge. I am trading an X-Maxx which has a clicking noise when accelerating and there is a good chance that the problem comes from its differentials. Thank you very much and have a good day. ☺
Wicked video buddy glad to see our drive cup sleeves are holding up well 💪👍
Great products
Should have went with a couple ear plugs in the center to help keep the front down.
Making the centre diff stiffer with earplugs would send more power to the rear - making the truck wheelie even more!
From my experience. And from the Manuel. I believe the oil level should just so the spider gears are just poking out of the oil level . Here is a photo of Manuel. Oh.. well I can't put the photo up.
Yes that’s how we always fill all of our gear diffs!
I believe you said in the video to fill up the cross pins. That's not enough. Half way Up the satellite gears. In the Manuel said.
...the cross pin is halfway up the spider gears. (Had to look up what you were talking about, never heard them called satiellite gears) You always wanna leave "room to breathe" in a diff, much like the oil in your car - otherwise youll be replacing something prematurely.
@@readeracingRC Even less will do. so long as the 4 gears "Pick up" oil it will transfer to the main gear, Most of the time this unit is on it's side so as long as 1 gear is running in a "bath" it will transfer to all the other parts. As we saw in the tear down it looked almost empty but if this was the case and it would be dry, the entire diff would be destroyed. Too much oil is worse than too little when it comes to gears and EP oils needed (Extreme pressures)
The one it gets me it’s the center diff, it’s one screw that is super tight I messed up 2 hex tools 🛠️ a ready I thing I just going to drive it until break’s and buy a new one 😂
Good quality tools are a must! Also if things are threadlocked heat them up to break the hold
My center diff “fluid” is like paste. It’s not viscous whatsoever, it resembles silly putty in areas. I can’t get it to rotate at all, should you be able to rotate anything with the center diff?
Thanks for the killer video, so appreciated. 🫡
Center diff will be very very very stiff - any of the heavier weight oils are not really oils and are like a paste- Try getting 1m weight out of a bottle and it takes ages!
Can you give some more info on how you have you ESC mounted and where your receiver is? That looks really clean and is exactly what I’ve been wanting to do, keeping the ESC nice and low and looks super clean.
We have made up a 3D printed plate which covers the receiver and gives a mounting surface for the esc
@@TeamRC3DDo you sell them? Where are you located?
excellent video!! what do you guys use to remove old grease from diffs and clean the gearing?
Just a degreaser. What we often do if time permits is leave to drain overnight then refill.
@@TeamRC3D My dad used to use petrol. Still an option?
traxxas france🏁 8s 🤔Thank you for very helpful Thank you for very helpful
Nice vid, I enjoy building almost as much as driving👍🏻why does the green truck wheelie more than the blue one?
That's because the green truck is running a huge Hobbywing ESC & motor, but the blue truck has the stock system. For racing, too much power is worse!
Great post. I just bought a x maxx last night andbim goingnto open them up out of the box. Im guessing they are pretty empty outa the box. Also what motor are you running?
We found that they were pretty empty! Just the standard motor
I am getting 1 set of packs through my vehicle and the rear pinion and crown gears are destroying themselves, have replaced everything, tried metal shims but no matter what i do its not helped, i see you have what looks like a rubber o ring, do you have a video detailing that? I am on like the 10th diff now and could really use some advice, thanks
Check for cracks in the cases - i would think if you are going through them that quick there must be another issue
The 2 blue rubber seals, are they trx8593 traxxas x-ring seals? I've managed to loose one when I took my diff apart.
Yes I think that is the part. You can double check on the exploded diagrams
Seems better than Arrma diffs
We have a Mojave and that has been bullet proof!! Tempting fate now!
If the front and the rear diff are exactly the same, why do they have different part numbers from traxxas?
Just the pinion gear that is different
I go back and fourth and can’t seem to see the weight oils you use for the back and front diffs. Do you do stock 10k front and 30k back??
Yes just topped up with stock
@@TeamRC3D awesome, I will do the same. Just ordered the oils. Ty
What brand and size spur gear and pinion do you use.
We both run 18/46 gearing but can't remember what brand. Pretty much whatever was cheapest on ebay!
I thought the heavier fluid goes in the front?
Depends on how you want to tune the handling of the truck
20M center diff oil: great for wheelies, horrible for racing.
Plenty of tuning potential with diff oils which we have been working on
Wait, “ why do traxxas do this” title error. Sb “Why does Traxxas do this.”
Grammar police!
@@TeamRC3D not police just respectfully pointing out an error, you can change it or not your choice.
You do xmaxx crawling
No not really! Not really a thing is it?
How fast is your xmaxx, have you try to put a Max4 with the 70125 motor
The biggest combo we have used was a Max 5 with 800kv motor - but found the power delivery too much for the xmaxx's handling. It was actually slower around our track than the stock motor so have gone back to that.
@TeamRC3D so it more for torque than speed.
What if you change gears would it be faster
@TeamRC3D have you try any lock diff. Oil for rock crawling.
You guys fill them too much they do that for expansion you don't fill your vehicle diff completely full do you.
They are not completely filled they are filled to cover cross pins
What are those things on your drive cups? where did you get them?
Drive cup ring reinforcers. They are available from a few different places. Less chance of snapping yhr drive outputs.
If you want to save some money use old bearings from the wheels (the smaller ones) they slide on perfectly and some thread lock will keep them in place. It's free and you can either destroy the bearing to remove the other larger outer ring (not needed) or leave as is. Works a treat.