Never Sharpen Your Mower Blades Again! DID THEY WORK?
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Last year Tractor Time with Tim replaced the mower blades on our John Deere 1025R with Self Sharpening Blades. We have mowed grass, bush trimmings and probably rocks with them. It's time to see how they did.
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Coastal South Carolina, sandy soil, warm-season turfgrass. We use these Lazer edge Blades on our Ferris Z2 mowers during our growing season (May to Oct) and they easily last that long and longer. Do not have to sharpen blades every week. We use gator blades during fall, winter and spring (live oak leaves) and do sharpen those weekly sometimes twice a week. These blades are legit just wish they were easier to purchase.
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Installed these on a riding mower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxetgfkJxfdT_B2vGYP-uNTLaBbim9OKTD . They were sharp out of the box, although I've never liked blade edges that were coated...not quite as sharp as I personally want. Using my belt sander, I removed the coating from the cutting edges and refined the edge enough to shave with them. So far, after three runs, these blades are holding up as expected. Even after hitting a few fallen 1/2 inch or so branches, the edges are still sharp as heck. No edge dings, no warping, etc. As far as installing them, the cutouts were of the proper size and shape to fit my aging Craftsman mower. Very satisfied.
Being a welder of 35 years and understanding different types of steel, it makes sense to use a hardened steel on the bottom side. The top edge wears faster being softer and keeps the cutting edge sharp as it wears more slowly. I have added stainless steel (TIG) to the bottom cutting edge of my blades and it helped. Hard surfacing rod works too but it’s too hard to grind to sharpen the edge.
I do whatever I can to save money.
Many many years(1975) ago I had a Gravely two wheel tractor with a 30" front mower. The single blade was thicker than regular mower blade. I took these blades and built up the cutting edge with a hard surface welding rod using an OA torch. After grinding them sharp once I never had to sharpen them again. I was using the Gravely to clear property. Hit a piece of railroad track buried in an ant hill. Thought I would have destroyed the blade but it did not hurt the blade at all. Busted a 2" chunk out of the RR track, though. Later I did the same thing to the mower blade for my IH 154 belly mower with the same super results. Hardsurfaceing these heavy blade works
Gravelys are great machines! I still use my 1960 L1 my dad bought new..
Hi, I have been using self sharpening blades for over 55 years with excellent results! I reverse grind a standard cutter blade by grinding it up from the bottom at an angle to the top ie: I duplicate the manufacturers cutting edge in reverse! Works for me and only minor touching up required now and then,cheers.
Bought these blades in 2018 for my Grasshopper 321D, to use in a light commercial application in New Jersey. I was cutting about 20 houses a week. They worked better way better than I expected, and lasted 2 seasons!! That’s cutting and leaf clean ups. Bought a new set for this season 👍🏻
I live in Florida and I am testing ( on my own ) the" Meg-Mo Blades " and they cost a lot of money..( I had a dealership for over 25 years in Deland, FL; and no fool on mower blades )...The Meg-Mo blaldes for my eXmark 52" Vantage arrived on Saturday ( 09April2022 ). My current blades by Rotary Corporation ( part# 11421 ) after 15 hours in Florida ( are always worn out ).Then, I installed the Meg-Mo blades at 318.1 hours on my mower; and started to mow my property 5 acres.Currently, I have mowed 2.6 hours with the Meg-Mo blades ( hour meter is 320.7 hrs ) and mowed about 2.5+- acres of my property.Thus, the Meg-Mo blades are completely worn out ( after 2.6 hours ).I ordered and paid for another complete set on 28 April 2022 / for a 2nd Test.
I live in Louisiana and I cut a couple yards, about 6 acres total, every week with a Gravely Proturn 52 and these have been the best blades I've ever used and I've tried a lot. The factory gravley blades cut the best but had to be sharpened often. I put the laser edge blades on at the beginning of last summer and they lasted the whole season. I just put a new set on and they cut great. As long as the laser edge blades are available I won't use anything else. I recommend them to home owners all the time because if you're just cutting your own grass, they'll last a couple years.
Concerning some of the other reviews... you shouldn't mow over rocks..with any blades..
Once you've reach the point these blades have dulled, is it possible to resharpen them?
6/5/21, Tractor Time w/Tim, I've been in my home 7yrs & just went from a walking mower to a Gravely ztx42, right size 4my property. I'm in S. Jersey where sand is indigenous to the region---SAND---lots of it in the soil. So far I've only used this machine 2x, probably have a ways to go b/4 sharpening/changing blades, I'll see what my Gravely/Ariens dealer says on that by next season. Also, I'll need to buy a jack [I saw on y/t] made just for that: 2clean out deck/change blades. That J/D illustration is cool where you detach the deck & flip it up in the air 2work on. Pros/cons 2everything! :) 1 thing I long ago did was to scour my whole yard for rocks/debris so I don't worry much about that.
What an honest, fair review.
As a 1025R owner who mows 60 hours per mowing season and needs to sharpen at least every 20 hours, I had hopes for these blades.
After this video I realized my issue is not dull blades but chipped blades.
I do my best to protect the blades by keeping the deck height at the higher end, or highest possible setting.
What I need more then these blades is a deck that can raise higher then the maximum cutting height of the 60D deck under the 1025R.
For now, I resharpen the blades, and when I say resharpen, I mean I grind away the cutting edge to eliminate or reduce the chips between blade replacement.
Yep. I don't think these are for you. Nifty idea...and likely helpful in sandy areas...but not good for rocks!
Tim, I lived all over the world, the first place I was allowed to live off-base was Sumter, SC. I purchased a craftsman self-propelled mower and cut the grass for the next five years. The sandy soil literally rounded off the ends of the blade. No nicks in the blade, but I think it was an inch shorter when I replaced it. Your channel brings back memories.
The best blades I have ever used were the original Marbain blades that came on my Scag Turf Tiger. They are made by Fisher-Barton. They took massive amounts of abuse without needing sharpening and held their edge extremely well. In trying to save money, I bought some supposed Marbain blades off the internet instead of the dealer one time and within a couple times mowing knew they were fake.
These I agree would be awesome for rockless, super tame lawns and would save some maintenance time.
best way to do the test would be put a regular blade in there along with one of the self sharpening to see them side by side after a year of mowing
In theory it should work. Our sand here in Florida beats the hell out of our blades.
You’d have to swap sides equal mowing hours for each blade for an accurate test because the blade on the discharge side gets more wear because most grass from the other side has pass through it. I always swap sides of the deck back and forth when I sharpen blades to get even wear.
I disagree. I trim with the non-discharge side of the deck. 1) It is always cutting and probably hitting gravel, etc. 2) even in the open areas - the discharge side may have grass from the other side running thru it, but there is a better chance that the discharge side is not cutting the last 6" on a 60" mower since some overlap is needed.
This is an ancient Japanese concept. It dates back to Samurai swords. It combines the toughness of softer iron with the hardness of high quality steel. It is called kasumi, which means "mist". If you look at the sharpened edge, you can see the area where the two different metals merge, and someone thought it looked like the edge of a fog bank. Very high quality chef's knives, carpenters cutting tools and razors are made using this technique. The hard, cutting edge steel can be made scary sharp, but it is brittle and the chipping is always a danger. You are absolutely correct in what you say in this video. Your approach is science-based. You test and honestly evaluate the results. Investigate these knives further. They are very interesting and many chefs who cut things all day long swear by them. But they will not cut stones either.
Tim and Kristi thanks for another video it's very nice to have your scripture verses at the end it's very nice keep it up
I agree with your assessment 100%. I only have a Cub Cadet XT2 with a 54 fab deck with three blades but our soil here in northern Vermont is very rocky. I sharpen my blades and clean my deck twice a season since I'm mowing 7 acres at a shot. When the blades become too worn to mow, I replace them with Oregon OEM blades which work just fine in my application. Thanks for sharing. Cheers! ps: Ill be purchasing a JD 1025r next month as I could use the 4WD and loader on my property.
I designed a blade years ago I called Durablade, but never went past initial tests to develop it. It had a replaceable hard thin edge insert. I tried hacksaw blade metal. Very tough and when it was damaged or worn out, the edge was replaced instead of sharpening or replacing the entire blade.
I like this idea, let me know
Back in Illinois I might sharpen blades 2 times in season, but here in Florida I keep many sets and change them every other time mowing, I have 5 acres. The first set of blades I left on one year the blade was garbage. I run Gator blades they do a nice job. The sand eats the blades away, I use a product called Yellow Hornet it's a bracket that holds an angle grinder at the right angle with a floppy disk after a few passes and check balance on to the next
Sounds like you are the perfect candidate for these self sharpening blades!
I'm in one of the small sandy soil pockets of IL, and I sharpen blades on the mower every month, minimum. But the gravel from the road and driveway, as well as lots of heavy grass take their toll
Oregon brand makes oem blades for a lot of mower brands and they make these types of hardened edges for some of them too.
Here in northern South Carolina I only get about 30 hours out of a set of regular blades on my Hustler zero turn, but not only does the sand ware out the blades at 400 hours the sand ate a hole in the mower deck to, thanks love the videos.
The sand in Florida, or any place that is sandy or top sanding is common, wears out the blade ends and ramp of the lift area rendering the blade useless as fast as the leading edge. The hardened edge will fracture with impacts to stone, concrete etc even the woody rhyzomes of certain grasses, Bahia, can fracture the hardened edge at high tip speeds.
Cub cadet used to use these 15-20 years, I liked them, and I don't see them anymore.
Arizona here,I used to hard face and balance my own blades,stays sharper much longer,only had to touch up once a year,10 month growing season.
I have hardfaced my mower blades for many many years. The first time they hget removed for sharpening, is when I hard face them. At this point there is a nice profile to build up with a hard facing electrode and my electric welder. I build up the tips and cutting edge with hardface rods, and then use a belt grinder / sander to reshape the blade. My soil is very sandy and wears a carbon steel blade very quickly. With hard facing i can easily get 2 seasons out of a set, andvyhen I just hardface them again and built up thr eroded area at the blades transition from the flat cutting edge and the swept up portion that creates lift. I also made bush hog type blades that work great. I buy a bunch of any cheap blades and cut the tip with tge cutting edge off and attach to a cuttoff blade with a single 3/8" case hardened bushing and bolt. Totally reduces a bent blade and cracked spindle housing when cutting brush or possibility of hitting exposed roots.
I live in sandy soil and be happy to send you my comments on them.
I live in Florida with a couple of acres and the sand eats my mower blade fast. I'm going to have to check into these.
Here in Indiana I had about the same conclusion as you, too many rocks. They did stay sharp. I also mow the road sides around the farm.
I have to buy new blades every year in Florida! Not because they dull but because the trailing edge is eaten away by the sand. Plenty of blade left to sharpen but the trailing edge is eaten away or missing altogether leaving blades unbalanced critically and unusable! Even with your blades the trailing edge would be eaten away.
We have sandy loam in our neighborhood, and I’ve seen the same on the Gator mulching blades. Even after the first use, in dry conditions, a visible groove was beginning to wear into the “teeth.”
My solution was to water the night before mowing to reduce sandy dust, but I’m wondering if the same hardening process could be applied to the top of the lift surface to reduce wear on it.
I believe the hardening treatment at the bottom of the cutting edge would work beautifully, here.
If the blade was coated with a softer tough material, the sandblasting would not damage it. Like the neoprene gloves in a sandblaster. I would like to see someone test that. Maybe use tool handle dip or something similar.
I live in East Texas and the soil is definitely sandy, even the local school district mascot is the "Sandies" if that tells you anything about the soil. I need these blades for a Kubota.
I was spending big bucks for hustler with hardened bottom. Now i buy cheap old plain blades and getting more mow time. I think your absolutely correct , buy what fits your needs . yes i watched your first video on these blades😁
Nothing works better than hard surfacing the leqding edges with hard surfacing weld !!
No info on the blades but the free shipping has been great.
I made some mower blades from some scrap we had left over in the shop, inconel 625... even though they do not stay sharp forever... They stay sharp a very long time.
At 5:47ish I'm watching you blow the clippings into the roadway. As a motorcycle rider that distresses me, because those clippings are dangerously slippery to us!
Please reverse your 1st and maybe the 2nd pass too, to help keep us safe! Thanks..
Thanks Tim for the info. Base of what you shared that these blades are for sandy soil I had to give them a try. I live on sandy soil and I dread having to sharpen my blades after each mow and having to replace them after each season. I hope they will do better than the oem one. Guess I will report in the next couple of years to see how they hold up.
Here on the North Carolina beaches... we have sand enough for everyone. Set of blades last us a year at best. Will be getting a set and giving them a try. Thanks Tim!
I would love to hear how they work for you. I live at OBX NC.
I stay with the Oregon mulching blade, Gator G5. We live in super sandy northern Michigan.
We have very sandy soil in southern Delaware and my blades get rounded over in about 4 mows on my two acre property. I have to constantly sharpen my blades and basically get one years use out of them. These blades sound perfect for my area.
Thanks once again Tim for the help. I was about to order a set of these. I live just North of you and have similar situation. Saved me some $$..
On the Scag at the farm, we'd absolutely kill these things! We're always hitting rocks and roots! Southern Indiana has a lot of rocks and shale in the soil.
I too live in Southern Indiana and I run XHT Blades on my John Deere mower as I have a lot of rocks and other assorted things I hit each time I mow, they are far superior to many other blade brands I have tried, You might give them a try.
I have 8TEN high lift mulching Gator blades fantastic blades
Very good video. Cutting grass at my farm just off the edge of the gravel I always hit gravel as you did in the video. It takes the edge off the blade quick but lets face it the blade will still cut without that super sharp edge. I never sharpen mine and they cut well enough. Of course I am using a cub cadet with a very fast rpm when cutting. A mower that will cut well doing 7 mph with sharp blades. I do admit to cut well enough I do cut at lower speeds with the blades dull. But to sharpen these blades every time they got dull from gravel it would be sharpening them every time I cut grass at the farm. Now if you have a pristine lawn and don't have gravel to hit or a high driveway the blade may nick sharp blades are a wonderful thing. But with all honesty any set of blades that are sharpened at the beginning of the season are good enough for the average person to mow their lawn for the season. Great video Tim you did a good job with an honest opinion and did the manufacturer of the blades a service too. Of course my opinion is just that my opinion. Everyone is entitled to theirs as well.
Live in Eastern Carolina, sand eats up my blades so bad I've actually considered buying some harder steel and making my own blades. So, im interested to try these out.
You may know this already but if you don't, I would strongly suggest that you heat treat any blade you try and use on a mower.
Rodents teeth are designed the same way, covered with super hard enamel over a softer material that wears away leaving a permanently sharp chisel shaped tooth. As i recall Japanese woodworking chisels are built in the same manner for ease of sharpening with long lasting sharp edge. Not a bad idea.
You can do it yourself, Its called carbidizing. It is done on knives, sometimes on the edge (on one side makes a self sharpening cardboard cutter) also used on the pivot on folding knives to stop them wearing.
Carbidizing machines are simple and cheap to make.
Tell us more!
@@solarsynapse oh, well the theory is simple, use a DC power source and some tungsten carbide (preferably a rod), hook the power to the tungsten and the parent metal (polarity is important, but I cant remember which way atm).
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with these blades Tim. I now about eight acres total on to sites here in SE Iowa. It is two yards plus around three out buildings. We have gravel drives and lots around some of the out buildings. I had seen ads for those blades and had thought about ordering a set. I were out a set of blades plus every year because I need to sharpen weekly. We also have an area of grey clay that contains small limestone chip in it naturally. I have to make sure that there no glass in the area when I mow that area because of the chips being picked by the blades sucking up the chip. Again thanks for the heads up.
ooh, thick gator blades are great for tall grass! does need sharpened regular!
Never heard of them. I'd like to give them a try! In the coastal plains in South Carolina we're extremely sandy soils! Get about 8 to hours between sharpening blades here.
I liked you video and comments regarding these blades. I recently purchased some "Meg-Mo" blades which I have enjoyed mowing with even for the short time this year. They have 4 blades with are approx. 8 times harder than the normal blade metal and they fold back if you hit something hard. The grass I cut was mulched extremely fine and it worked extremely well on my thick fescue lawn. I had bought some Oregon mulching "gator blades" which seemed to work better than the original blades, but nothing as well as the Meg-Mo. If you find some time, I would love to see your comments on these blades. They are more expensive, but the claim that when they do need replacing you only have to buy the 4 small blades. I have 2.5 acres with half of it treed so I tend to hit a fair number of down branches as well. Hope you get a chance to review these.
IMHO, at the 5:17 mark, you're saying it's 'still quite sharp'... It sure doesn't look sharp to me, but maybe it's my feeble eyesight.. LOL. I like a blade that I can shave with - so I sharpen mine (JD 350 + 48" deck) every other week - and I only use this mower for trimming; about 30 minutes, tops, per mowing. The other 4A is done with my JD3039 + Woods 72" 3-pt RD finish mower - and even those are sharpened 3-4 times/year.. But overall I agree - those blades are for special circumstances, but not generally worth it... Best wishes, Tim.
im next to sandy florida: i mow about 5 acres.. and land is flat /great grass.. but does have sugar white sand. thick blades get dull and suk/ way down south/ use thin blades! mow all season and sometimes 2x seasons - then change out the cheeper /thinner blades . stays sharp enough to cut-not tear grass/ looks good!
Golf courses use sand to smooth out their lawns, also the sand fills minor holes and packs down. From what I understand they cover the whole course with a top layer of sand.
there will never be a mower blade that never needs sharpening.
I'm glad someone said it
There will be, trust me.
I accidentally bought a set of these from my Altoz dealer this summer. All I can say is anyone who is a naysayer of the of the fact that the do wear themselves sharp you don't need sandy soil to work they just last longer with less sand. You are missing out not trying these blades
@@michaelgray2793 how did you accidently buy the blades? just curious about that.
I appreciated both of these videos and thank you for the presentation.
Cane havesters have been using this blade principle for years.
The blades on my John Deere Terraincut 1550, wears so qucikly and rounds in the corner... I think I'll try some Gatorblades :-)
I'm in Florida and can vouch that our sugar sand soil is tough on mower blades. Luckily our new property has more clay soil than our last property that had poor sugar sand.
Must have locked up the cats, lol.
I like my series 1 2032R , but hate their website (jdparts.com). Tried several times to find the parts breakdown you discussed, but it only would show filter information. Then when you hit the return to go back a page you are blown of the site. How stupid were they to make two completely different 2032R's?
We apparently have a different opinion of what sharp and chipped are lol
Seems like JDparts.com is changing? I see a banner "Access to JDParts will be stopped in 2020." When trying to find part numbers, I get all of 14 different part numbers for my Johnny inspired Johnny. Pretty sure there are more than 14 parts in that tractor?
I dunno. You can look at the parts breakdown to see all of the parts on the 1025r
These blade would be great for the people that sharpen blades every other year if that soon, sand or not. Pull a blade of grass out of your lawn and see if the cut end has been sliced or shredded, that's how you know the blades are still sharp.
Thank you Mr I have been waiting for this lol. Very good video. I was totally hoping that it was going to be true lol!!!!!Your awesome sir thank you for all your time invested in learning about these items. I go to that farm show and allot of the vendors you can't go too in one day. I know what kind of time you put into this!! Thank you again.👍
I like my blades razor sharp . It shows in the grass finish product.
For my last mower I replaced some regular blades that were pretty much completely gone. I bought a $200 rider used what do ya expect. Replaced with some beefy mulching kind of blades. Three little fins on each side instead of just a ramp and thicker. I believe I’ve seen people talk about similar blades called “gator blades”. They work pretty amazing. I’m not gentle on them either. I’d imagine regular blades will come on my 54 auto connect. I should of kept the blades on the old mower to put on new mower before I sold it.
Oh well, I will admit if I didn't have to sharpen the blades I'd likely never clean the deck
Lol, true that
Jason, I have clean outs on mine and I attach a hose after every mow. I still have scraping to do and I recently replaced a clean out after 4 years so there will still be work to do but it really helps.
Sounds like a great idea . engineered well.
Would've been great if you could have used both your normal blades and these blades at the same time to get a literal side-by-side comparison. Was there a weight difference between the blades, making it so you couldn't do that? Pretty cool geologic map there at 7:10 - one can see the great expanse of sand that created the Ogalalla Aquifer.
Got similar blades on my Bad Boy zero turn. They do seem to have lasted longer to first sharpening. Not so much after that. I'm in upstate NY with glacial till. Lots and lots of rocks with a new crop every spring. The rock fragments help clear the wet grass from the deck!
I don’t mind watching you cleaning under the deck Tim. You can’t please everyone I guess. Lol
Same here. I don't get around to clean my deck so it was satisfying to see him cleaning out his deck. If I didn't do it, I'm glad someone else did. Can't please everyone.
My first job after I left school in the mid 80's was at a factory where they make all sorts of farming machines especially mowers, and my job was mainly sharpening blades n cast iron blades on a grinder so hot burn through the gloves, inhaling all that black steel dust, don't know how they sharpen them these days...
Tim, I live in Florida and do have the sand you mentioned. I do not have the blades you are using. I have a John Deere X-300 Machine. My experience is sharpen each time I use the mower and have cut about 3 - 4 acres. My problem is that by sharpening each mowing I get better wear because I don't have to take off so much metal to get it sharp. The real problem is the turned up back edge which gives lift and throw to eject the grass is literally cut away by sand in not too much time. I wonder what these new type blades experience in that way. Love your videos and watch a lot. Thanks for your time and sharing. John In Pensacola
Thanks for the video. Blade info is good. Although I'm not a JD fan I have watched 2 of your videos and they had info that will work so to speak for any tractor/mower. Thanks. I went with new holland TC 40 HT because it would accept common style emplaments I.e. Buckets ,forks etc. J.D. Does not play well ( not at all) with others. It doesn't really matter what brand you have ( like a motorcycle) as long as you get out there and do something. Thanks again for the video.
Welcome to our channel. Marshall. We don’t care what color tractor you buy. They are all enormous fun.
When you put 150 hours on your old jd318 in one summer then you got some good blades
And yes we have sandy soil
Neat product/concept! Now if someone comes up with “self-sharpening” people... 🤪
Need a coating like that on the back side, the "wing" wears off my blades long before the cutting edge is gone.
Blades wings are gone in 6 months one sharpening at 3 months on a CubCadet Ultima ZTX5 10acres
We live in south Carolina with sandy soil I need these blades
Was always curious! Thanks Tim!
In Austrailia we have sandy soil. What I want is Kavli blades with this hard layer. One day maybe.
Thanks for the update. Please don't blow clippings onto the road. For us motocycle people, it becomes a road hazard. Very slippery.
Sounds like if you mow sand or dust that can abrade the top edge, it will work as advertised, just maybe not the best for a nice thick grass turf lawn.
Funny my blades normally get damaged by rocks or metal objects. Grinding them down and balancing is alway fun.
Plenty of areas with sandy soil around North America where these might be great; my parents' place in the Connecticut River valley was once the edge of an ancient lake (Hitchcock) and is very sandy and rough on blades, but has no rocks you'd be likely to hit. Cape Cod, much of Southern New Hampshire...my place in Eastern Massachusetts is very sandy too, just sandblasts normal steel blades away.
Always wondered how such blades would do in WV. We too have a lot of rocks, sticks, acorns, etc. that would probably not make these blades worth the additional expense. I’ll just continue replacing my blades. Thanks!
John Deere I haven't got, Husky I do. My soil is decomposed granite and I have some gravel and pine cones I often hit. The blades don't usually last but one mowing season. The blade edge does wear fast but it's the trailing or mulching side that tends to wear out. I have wanted to hard face a set of blades one season and see how well that works out.
Off topic. But I've seen they make a rock bucket for the 1025r. I was thinking of getting it. But at $800 I would hate to get it to find out the quality isn't there. But could see it helpful when pickup up river rock and big Debris that you dont want to take the dirt. Redline system inc makes it. They also have front tie down hooks for the 1025r. Those I'll definitely order do to wanting my mac tie downs easier to hook to.
I put Stellite on a blade. It worked great. But the softer metal behind the Stellite wore away.
What is Stellite?
@@solarsynapse It is a hard surfacing metal. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stellite
Your welding supply store will have some, or maybe better.
can you comment on running over gopher mounds?.. does the dirt dull like the sand does?? I raise my blades at the mounds but still get dirt flying alot. and what about tree roots?
I haven't used them, but I have 10 sandy yards, the blades on my troy bilt zero turn only last 20-25 hours. BUT it isn't the cutting edge that goes bad, it is the back edge that creates lift that wears away from the sand washing over them.
if you will read the manual on most mowers it recommends resharpening the blades only once anyway and then replacing them. of course most people dont do that. those 8-10 hrs really werent a test...thats about 2 mows for me but that thin edge will always chip ..its a trade off ...chips or a dull edge. like you said-- to each his own.
I'm not sure if Tim is saying these blades come from Laser-Edge or if they explained how it works. At one point it seems like he said these are JD blades, but then talks about Laser-Edge. ?? tks
Tim, I actually think they would work here, as we live somewhat close to each other. I actually think I remember you saying something about taking livestock to be processed at This Old Farm meat processor in 1 of your videos a couple years ago, and I just live the next road south of that meat processor, we use to farm the ground right around that meat processor, back when it was called R and R years ago, my cousins husband was 1 of the original owners, and the other original owner went to the same church as my family. You are probably right about them not being worth the extra money in your case. But I think depending on your mowing conditions, like if your just mowing your own yard, and not any side ditches or barnlots, where your not dealing with any rocks or any type of brush they probably would last a long time, maybe even a couple yrs. They may work well for lawncare companies if they are mowing manicured lawns in town. However if your mowing a lot of rougher yards side ditches and stuff like that, where your more likely to nick your blades with rocks or brush, then these self sharpening blades probably wouldnt be with the extra cost. Depending on how much extra they cost, I may buy a set if they have them for my garden tractor. I keep the grass I mow a longer length because I pasture some of it and dont use any herbicide, because of raising organic meat and eggs, so keeping grass taller means less weeds. On top of that its just better for your grass to not mow it short, but that means your mowing more often, which is why most people cut their yards short, especially if they pay someone to mow them, lol.
Great video I take my blades of the JD x500 use a 6" bench grinder to sharpen them
I am going to look into getting a set of those blades. Here on the eastern shore of Maryland where we live we have sandy soil. I only have 35 hours on my massey gc 1725m and made 18 to 20 hours on the mower. So I will look into them by the end of the season.
Good honest review thank you
BEST TEST FOR BLADES SHARPNESS IS LOOK AT THE GRASS BLADES ARE THEY CUT CLEAN OR ARE THEY RAGGED
I think the south has sand and sandy loam everywhere. Used to be ocean. We have tons of sand but this is deep soil. This is about 1 year ago and I'm interested.
Makes perfect sense.
I thought "sharp" implied two planes intersecting. There appears to be a third plane with two intersections-blunt leading edge.. Not sharp where I come from. But may be sharp enough for ragged decapitation, if that is all you are looking for.
In central Florida we have completely different grass called St Augustine which has a very wide blade. (Up north we’d call it weed grass or water grass). It is completely different from Bluegrass or Fescue and Ryegrass up north. It takes a very sharp blade to cut a fine bladed grass. Cutting a wide bladed grass does not take a sharp blade to cut cleanly without shredding. I use a standard blade down here and there is no point to sharping it as you can’t see a difference between a sharp and dull blade.