No please include videos off all assembly instructions. Don’t worry about length or amount of videos required those interested will appreciate the instructions more like myself. Can’t wait to see that all that shiny stuff added.
Holy shit bro I absolutely love your videos like honestly I watch them multiple times hope you’re feeling better and hope to see more amazing awesome contact soon keep up the hard work!
Drone shot opener! Fantastic! I hope it's the first in a series of drone shots. Loved the detailed, very clear information. Looking forward to the next installment!
New to the channel and loving your build videos! You are seriously motivating me to build my own. When you are done, I'd love to see a complete BOM so we can purchase parts ourselves.
With your alignment tool you will set the Z-axis rods parallel to the vertical frame beams. Which is not bad if your frame is perfectly square. Sometimes it could be not very accurate. The main thing is that your rods should be PERPENDICULAR to the Y axis reails. So I'd made (print or machined) the alignment tool to verify the perpendicularity of the rods to the rail. Regarding the first alignment of the first rods mounts: just can be used a printed spacer to be placed between the frame and the mount to make it roughly on its place.
I found it was easier to put the frame on it's side for aligning the rear Z rods. Then you can slide the bed frame up and down to see if you have any springing without fighting it's weight.
Vez, make a revision on the Z motor Mount and add a hole for hex nut/brass insert so you can tension the belt by just tightning the screw, this way will be easier to tension. Nice footage on the drone, BTW.
I was certain you would be using a belted Z axis, in your opinion what are the pro's and con's of belted Z and leadscew Z, by the way I just love those corner brackets/ butress's!
Regarding the Z-axis rods: as your rods mounts does not allows the rods to be adjusted in X direction a bit you need to have: bed frame, printer frame and mounts very precise. If they are not - you will have a tension in the bearings which is not good. I think that you should do the mounts placed on the top side of the bottom extrusion beams, not the inside surface. The same thing goes to the distance between the front face of the printer and the each rod. If the distance would be not very equal (I think that your alignment tool could not be accurate enough) the bed should turn a bit along the vertical axis. Which is not bad at all, but as your rods mounts connected to the inner surface of the extrusions - they will not be able to move for any bit. Probably, plastic will tolerate this, but it will put extra stress on the parts and the whole rig.
I'm liking this design more and more. I see one in my future. Why the design choice of belted Z off single motor, instead of one motor each? I get not under mounting to keep it low to the ground.
1 motor means always in sync lead screws. Simplicity..low cost. Also means not losing z height. The bed can go very low. Also means x2 resolution and it has proven to be excellent in quality for layers. Old-school but very good
Hi, Do you think is it possible to convert my Biqu B1 Se Plus to this type of printer? Any sugestion, where to start? Can I use my current stepping motors?
Jeebs, why are you using 1515 for that big of a printer? I mean, if you're printing at Prusa speeds that's fine, or if it were 1/3rd the size. Sorry for the hate it just looks so floppy!
Its 2020..and with all the pannels its super sturdy. The printer is quite small..and wanted to keep it light. I have the 330 with about same frame and its performing very good.
why dont you want to print lower and upper z-guide mounts solid instead of 3 pieces? you will have less room for installation error and misalignment then. just an idea. you alredy printed table guides as 1 piece, so you know distance between rods
could.. will offer that as well.. but its a big part to print .. for a big bed.. but for those who wanna do it.. I will provide the STL :) good suggestion
Nice build. I have a question. Is it better for the bed to move up or down on the z axis, or is it better for the gantry to move up or down on the z axis??
Both have their pros and cons. I think I prefer the gantry to be fixed. And the z here is very simple and cheap to make. 1 motor..one driver.. linear rods..etc.. simple and works very good
@@Vez3D Hows the stiffness? Also, I find my roll curls up a lot. 0 warping, but on any overhang, it curls up. Cant even handle a 30 degree (so easier to print than 45) overhang. Its also really similar to petg in strength.
@@Vez3D Huh. Weird. I get wayy better stiffness and print quality with the cf abs you used to use. How do you combat the curling without sacrificing much layer adhesion?
That useless drone shot was awesome 🤩👌
No please include videos off all assembly instructions. Don’t worry about length or amount of videos required those interested will appreciate the instructions more like myself. Can’t wait to see that all that shiny stuff added.
And a second one: That awesome explanations and video quality really creates the want for building that one - awesomely made man!
O there you go that's enough loose lol. I love it. Keep up the great videos
Ooh, that's an interesting way of holding the round stock for cutting
aluminum wont scratch SS :)
Vez, that was certifiably the most awesome drone shot i've ever seen in my entire life. Really made my day my friend
haha you should check Johnny FPV on youtube.. you will see awesome drone shots
Really enjoying the stream-lined assembly process!
Holy shit bro I absolutely love your videos like honestly I watch them multiple times hope you’re feeling better and hope to see more amazing awesome contact soon keep up the hard work!
wow thats giving me a good pump! thanks brother
Very cool video, above all I can see how well the printer was designed, simple in construction but of high quality. Btw, get well.
Awesome printer, very good instructions, thank you.
Drone shot opener! Fantastic! I hope it's the first in a series of drone shots. Loved the detailed, very clear information. Looking forward to the next installment!
New to the channel and loving your build videos! You are seriously motivating me to build my own. When you are done, I'd love to see a complete BOM so we can purchase parts ourselves.
The bom is already available on github ;) see link in description
00:00 Intro
01:27 Parts overview
02:10 Linear rods
13:27 Oldham couplers
15:46 Leadscrew brackets
19:34 Z-motor bracket
21:47 Pulleys & belt
23:25 Z-motor & belt tension
23:56 Pulley alignment
25:09 Outro
With your alignment tool you will set the Z-axis rods parallel to the vertical frame beams. Which is not bad if your frame is perfectly square. Sometimes it could be not very accurate.
The main thing is that your rods should be PERPENDICULAR to the Y axis reails. So I'd made (print or machined) the alignment tool to verify the perpendicularity of the rods to the rail.
Regarding the first alignment of the first rods mounts: just can be used a printed spacer to be placed between the frame and the mount to make it roughly on its place.
gorgeous build once again Bossman!
at 12:36- Bi-axial t-slot insert? nah.. its a bracket.
I found it was easier to put the frame on it's side for aligning the rear Z rods. Then you can slide the bed frame up and down to see if you have any springing without fighting it's weight.
Thats a good technique, I know the pain of fighting gravity when installing a bed gantry!
But you will have a chance of misaligning the bed, since gravity is pulling
Vez, make a revision on the Z motor Mount and add a hole for hex nut/brass insert so you can tension the belt by just tightning the screw, this way will be easier to tension.
Nice footage on the drone, BTW.
Great job and design
Great build!
I was certain you would be using a belted Z axis, in your opinion what are the pro's and con's of belted Z and leadscew Z, by the way I just love those corner brackets/ butress's!
Hes Mega Mind is too busy to find right words :) Great work man!
Regarding the Z-axis rods: as your rods mounts does not allows the rods to be adjusted in X direction a bit you need to have: bed frame, printer frame and mounts very precise. If they are not - you will have a tension in the bearings which is not good. I think that you should do the mounts placed on the top side of the bottom extrusion beams, not the inside surface.
The same thing goes to the distance between the front face of the printer and the each rod. If the distance would be not very equal (I think that your alignment tool could not be accurate enough) the bed should turn a bit along the vertical axis. Which is not bad at all, but as your rods mounts connected to the inner surface of the extrusions - they will not be able to move for any bit. Probably, plastic will tolerate this, but it will put extra stress on the parts and the whole rig.
looks great, thank you, get better.. not boring, great work
Very interesting for some!
Hope that you will recover fast!
Many good designs in it!
Dont leave any parts out a longer videos is fine, easier to follow.
Take care and get well soon!
Дух репрап это хорошо, но компактней и жестче получается все же в хорошем стальном корпусе
I'm liking this design more and more. I see one in my future. Why the design choice of belted Z off single motor, instead of one motor each? I get not under mounting to keep it low to the ground.
1 motor means always in sync lead screws. Simplicity..low cost. Also means not losing z height. The bed can go very low. Also means x2 resolution and it has proven to be excellent in quality for layers. Old-school but very good
Awesome 1500mm/s here we go 😂
Just a note. If you completely sit the lead Screw will rub the bottom panel creating friction, wobble and a very ugly scratch on the aluminum.
Yeah dont do that. Install the gear and lock it place so the bearing holds it and not the the bottom plate
Really enjoy....but waiting for mellow supe8 configuration :D DE make it real :P
Ahhh! I tapped the lead screw parts 😂
The parts are beautiful. What filament are you using?
this was PC CF CPE from filament.ca
Hi, I use ABS At and Calibram BT for printing.
After check again videos in the serie, I can't find bed assembly and wiring, can you please make a clip or some photos about it.
Its in part 4
Will you make a video with all the tuning and the software part because it's the part that frightens me the most?
i can try yes
@@Vez3D thanks a lot for your amazing work
Cool!
🙌💯
Hi, Do you think is it possible to convert my Biqu B1 Se Plus to this type of printer? Any sugestion, where to start? Can I use my current stepping motors?
What is the belt spasification for vz330 ?
pulleys and belt size r they the same as 235?
Thank u .
Jeebs, why are you using 1515 for that big of a printer? I mean, if you're printing at Prusa speeds that's fine, or if it were 1/3rd the size. Sorry for the hate it just looks so floppy!
Its 2020..and with all the pannels its super sturdy. The printer is quite small..and wanted to keep it light. I have the 330 with about same frame and its performing very good.
Oh and its meant to be bolted to the wall too. As for speed printing... i guess you didnt see my other videos? :) that frame does just good trust me.
why dont you want to print lower and upper z-guide mounts solid instead of 3 pieces? you will have less room for installation error and misalignment then. just an idea. you alredy printed table guides as 1 piece, so you know distance between rods
could.. will offer that as well.. but its a big part to print .. for a big bed.. but for those who wanna do it.. I will provide the STL :) good suggestion
If I wanted to build a a VZBot from scratch and can buy a Tronxy X5SA for $400 CDN would that be a good starting point or should I just buy the parts?
Hi Vez are the leadscrews just resting on the base Plate? Is there no axial bearing being mounted?
I suppose to , and i dont like it
How may VZbot owners flipped their Z stepper pully over today? I'll admit that I did after seeing I had it on wrong.
awesome printer, is it possible to do with 300x300x350, with same files on github?
yes but you will have to check for the size of all profiles, and x tube :)
@@Vez3D I'm using 2020 profile on the whole frame. is the stl file the same?
Hey vez do u have any wiring diagram for connecting everything with the btt Optimus board
Octopus? No but with super 8 yes..on github :)
Nice build. I have a question. Is it better for the bed to move up or down on the z axis, or is it better for the gantry to move up or down on the z axis??
Both have their pros and cons. I think I prefer the gantry to be fixed. And the z here is very simple and cheap to make. 1 motor..one driver.. linear rods..etc.. simple and works very good
@@Vez3D If i may ask and when u have time to answer, what is your opinion of the pros and cons on both methods?
any plans on building a 500x500 ?
Yes one day ...soon
I want to build that one soooo badly! what are the average costs for the total build ?
It depends what you put on. 1200$ would be good i think
@@Vez3D ty mate i love your vids!
Would i be able to use a BTT Manta MP5 with a 235 AWD.
I think so.. though you might be limited by the processing. But unless you dont use crazy speed like 1000mms + you should be fine
👍
Hi. Can I use Btt tmc2208 uart for AWD setup? It will work? Or I have to buy tmc2130 spi ? Thanx
2208 should work
@@Vez3D Thanx
5:10 - thats what she said
what are the printed parts printed in?
PC CF CPE
@@Vez3D Please post a link to the filament you used for this project. Have a most awesome afternoon!
@@Vez3D Hows the stiffness? Also, I find my roll curls up a lot. 0 warping, but on any overhang, it curls up. Cant even handle a 30 degree (so easier to print than 45) overhang. Its also really similar to petg in strength.
@@josiahong5177 I find it good. Similar to abs i would say. With added carbon fiber its good. I dont have curling issue because....rscs + cpap ;)
@@Vez3D Huh. Weird. I get wayy better stiffness and print quality with the cf abs you used to use. How do you combat the curling without sacrificing much layer adhesion?
Please dont do that drone shot again, that got me almost motion sick lol
thats exactly why I did it ...haha jk
@@Vez3D hope you get better soon. The Voice Sounds really messed up.
8 minutes and could not stand the annoying 'music' anylonger.
mute it and activate the CC ;)
Hehe sorry on this one i downloaded a generic playlist and just put it in .. i promise not to do that again ;)