Dang it! I can already see one of these printers in my room in the near future!! I am really enjoying the build series and the format you present it in!
in the intro.. when Im seated next to the printer... can anyone see an issue with the left side belt and the XY joiner? haha I just noticed that belt is not in the idler
I found on Ali the Mellow VzBot AWD 330 Kit. I Have no pssibilitys to Print Clean ABS Parts. Is in the Kit Some Pre Printet Parts so I can Start Printing with it? Is it an Complete Kit? What die I also need to Build it. My privius Ideas was to Buy Seperate Hyper Cube Frame becurse It youses 30x30 Profiele for the Frame, and Take the HCV Assambly, but I Found this Kit and wont Take an Voron Printer Kit but this Kit looks Great becurse there seeme the Motors Includet.
I'm looking for good not too expensive linear rails but i just can't find yours! Where can i buy them? I came back to this video because i remembered you talked about them ^^
35:30 - Does this spacer washer really needed? I tried just two F623ZZ bearings and it looks to wokr fine. The space between two flanges should be 6mm dead. So it should be enough for the 6mm GT2 belt. So could you explain why use the washer?
I am trying to locate the STL file for the spacer at the back part of the motor mount (seen at 20:50). I have looked everywhere on the VZbot boards and github as well as the website but I cant find it.. Can someone please point me in the direction of the STL?
30:47 good to see the warning AFTER I did it wrong on my still wip vzbot with diy Alu parts… 😂 But very fun to build and cnc everything for the vzbot, not to mention the build itself… just that this was my first experience with a cnc which I build myself for the vzbot made this project special to me and painful at the same time.
Beautiful, I will just add more mass and rigidity (maybe soldering the joins). More mass dampens jerk naturally, I would make the frame completelly out of steel, your motors will work smoother and the print quality would be much better at speed.
1:14:50 - This is actualli not the frequency we are interested it. Transverse vibrations has no connection to the longitudal (which in turn is important to the printing). Transverse vibrations frequency depends in the tension while longitudal IS NOT! More tension will not give higher resonance frequency. Tension should prevent belt from skipping steps on the pulleys - this is important,
I never said frequency of the belt is what we need to know for input shaper. I said that we use the frequency to compare both sides to see if they are at the same tension :)
42:40 - Speaking of the vibrations. Actually I think that the stiffer the assemble, the less vibrations you should have. Vibrations would go into higher frequencies which is also good. To avoid missalignment problems I think you could untight the screws holding the brackets to the X-gantry, tightly connect the brackets to the Y carriages and then - tight the screws holding the X gantry. Another problem is the parallelism of the Y rails. Maybe you could untight the connection of the extrusion holding the Y rails, make shure that X gantry can go all the way along the Y axis and after that - tight the extrusion to the frame.
We’d need to test it to be sure. Stiffness doesn’t always mean less vibration because aluminum and steel don’t have very good damping properties. There is a trade off to be made between maximizing stiffness and maximizing vibration damping. Sounds like Vez suspects the loss in stiffness from a printed spacer is worth it for the damping and vibration isolation gained.
What brand of ABS or ASA do you find is best for printing the parts for a vzbot please, don't want to buy a brand I'm going to have too many issues with thanks....🙂
hello, good work with both videos and printers, I would like to ask if there is a drawing for al panels and enclousure somewhere to download? thanks for the reply
You should check out the carbon fiber rails that igus have ( W series ) … although expensive, they should shave a few tens of grams out of that axis if you really are into weight saving 🤓
Awesome video as always Simon! I'm curious about the method of joining the belt to the rear of the X-carriage. How come you didn't go with a similar technique to the front side?
What the use of 4 steppers? You did a great job to reduce the weights, but the inertia/mass of the motor will produce the same issues as a weight of the head...
parts should all be available . They were on a massive production and now its ready. But also, MEllow will now provide printheads and all other stuff too, and we are deploying reseller infrastructure worldwide. In USA too :)
50:40 - This would work if your frame is square too. Which is not allways true. The main thing is that your X gantry should be perpendicular to the Y rails. This is what you need to check in the first place. So I'd use a square tool for that.
I think that AWD system can have a flaw built in. There will be two motors working on a single timing belt. If one of the motor will be half step shifted ralative to another you will have an extra tension on one part of the belt and lower tension on the other. And the extra tension can be significant: if we suppose that the 6mm GT2 belt has 1e5 H/1 Young's modulus (E) than the tension force will be: ΔL/L * E = 0.1mm / 600mm * 1e5 = 16.7 newtons (more than 1.5 kg!!!). 600mm is just my assumtion of the belt length between two connected motors. How do I calculated 0.1mm ΔL: full rotation on the stepper is 40mm, if it has 200 stepps/rotation than full step will be equal to 40mm/200 = 0.2mm. Then half step will be 0.1mm To prevent this to happen you need to: 1) Loose at least one pulley of the two 2) Energise both motors 3) Tight all pulleys. And this procedure should be done each time you change the belt tension.
Its in our build instruction/manual to sync motors like you mentioned... But... i think im going to remove this.. and the reason behind that is that i found that unsyncing them is not causing any issue but its helping a lot on VFA. :) since now the steps are divided
Also becauee its a bit hard to do when motors have flat spot shafts ..you have to make sure the pulley is not on the flat spot. But again.. i think this useless ..from my teating i get better result unsynced
Finished mine ;) (well cpap and top panel are missing) but its already printing..now calibrating..@Vez3D thx for the design..(i uploaded a short video on my account if you wanna see it :)
40:00 - I think that it would be better to make a hole in the top plate to let the pulley go through. In case you need to pull it out for some reason. Without this hole you will need to disasemble the whole top plate.
why did the choice stop on a beam made of aluminum? because the difference in thermal expansion between carbon and steel is much less than between aluminum and steel
it may seem like a trifle, but from experience I can say that due to such an expansion when printing a model with a large size of the lower layers, especially the first one, printing problems often occur despite the fact that the bltach removed the card, but due to the decent printing time of the first layer, the Z gap slowly leaves closer to edge of the table
Yay!!!! Folks now show support for this man and hard work he has done for us filming all this :)
Dang it! I can already see one of these printers in my room in the near future!! I am really enjoying the build series and the format you present it in!
Great parts, great printer, beautiful video! Very comprehensive and transparent with the build, I am glad that I found your video, very inspiring!
Hawk here it looks amazing dude. Enjoyed the video.
Thank you for continuing the be an inspiration, hopefully I can a achieve a fraction of your progress in the future with my build.
Stop apologising for not getting the right English word. You speak it better than many people who are natives here 😉
Dang, you surpassed me ! 😃 I have the gantry and motors and belts already in, need to print some more Z axis stuff. But mine is BIGGER at 450x3!
in the intro.. when Im seated next to the printer... can anyone see an issue with the left side belt and the XY joiner? haha I just noticed that belt is not in the idler
that X axis is dope af
Always awesome as usual!
Indeed
It makes me feel better knowing I'm not the only one who takes three attempts to get the right size allen key 😎
you inspired me starting my project today !!!!awesome videos thanks for sharing
Hahaha nice intro! Let me grab a snack a 📝 watch and learn
I found on Ali the Mellow VzBot AWD 330 Kit. I Have no pssibilitys to Print Clean ABS Parts. Is in the Kit Some Pre Printet Parts so I can Start Printing with it?
Is it an Complete Kit?
What die I also need to Build it. My privius Ideas was to Buy Seperate Hyper Cube Frame becurse It youses 30x30 Profiele for the Frame, and Take the HCV Assambly, but I Found this Kit and wont Take an Voron Printer Kit but this Kit looks Great becurse there seeme the Motors Includet.
I'm looking for good not too expensive linear rails but i just can't find yours! Where can i buy them? I came back to this video because i remembered you talked about them ^^
35:30 - Does this spacer washer really needed? I tried just two F623ZZ bearings and it looks to wokr fine. The space between two flanges should be 6mm dead. So it should be enough for the 6mm GT2 belt. So could you explain why use the washer?
I am trying to locate the STL file for the spacer at the back part of the motor mount (seen at 20:50). I have looked everywhere on the VZbot boards and github as well as the website but I cant find it.. Can someone please point me in the direction of the STL?
30:47 good to see the warning AFTER I did it wrong on my still wip vzbot with diy Alu parts… 😂
But very fun to build and cnc everything for the vzbot, not to mention the build itself… just that this was my first experience with a cnc which I build myself for the vzbot made this project special to me and painful at the same time.
Vez, using toothed idlers is warranted?
Does this improves the printing quality? Reduces 2mm waves on the model?
Beautiful, I will just add more mass and rigidity (maybe soldering the joins). More mass dampens jerk naturally, I would make the frame completelly out of steel, your motors will work smoother and the print quality would be much better at speed.
my goal is to keep printer movable hehe. The frame will be bolted to concrete wall so that is also a good option :)
1:14:50 - This is actualli not the frequency we are interested it. Transverse vibrations has no connection to the longitudal (which in turn is important to the printing).
Transverse vibrations frequency depends in the tension while longitudal IS NOT!
More tension will not give higher resonance frequency.
Tension should prevent belt from skipping steps on the pulleys - this is important,
I never said frequency of the belt is what we need to know for input shaper. I said that we use the frequency to compare both sides to see if they are at the same tension :)
@@Vez3D Okey, that clear! :)
What did you use to cut your linear rails to size? please, Thank you 🙂...I'm in the process of building a vzbot...
Angle grinder
@@Vez3D
Thanks
I wonder how much maintenance this requires when you print fast.
those alu parts are sexy af. but can't justify to buy that, I am happy with the printed part for now
Thats what is good about it. People can chose :) alu parts are optional for those wanting to go all in
Quick question, where do you order your linear rails ?
And what exact motor are you using as well ?
Maybe you could also dropp a link
Thanks
Yeah links are in the BOM in description. Its google spread sheet :)
@@Vez3D thanks was looking for that but seams i overlooked it on github
42:40 - Speaking of the vibrations. Actually I think that the stiffer the assemble, the less vibrations you should have. Vibrations would go into higher frequencies which is also good.
To avoid missalignment problems I think you could untight the screws holding the brackets to the X-gantry, tightly connect the brackets to the Y carriages and then - tight the screws holding the X gantry.
Another problem is the parallelism of the Y rails. Maybe you could untight the connection of the extrusion holding the Y rails, make shure that X gantry can go all the way along the Y axis and after that - tight the extrusion to the frame.
We’d need to test it to be sure. Stiffness doesn’t always mean less vibration because aluminum and steel don’t have very good damping properties. There is a trade off to be made between maximizing stiffness and maximizing vibration damping. Sounds like Vez suspects the loss in stiffness from a printed spacer is worth it for the damping and vibration isolation gained.
@@bloogaming8827 This is an interesting point! I didn't thought about the dumping effect. Yes it can work positively.
Will the larger vzbot also get the quad motor treatment?
Oh yess
What brand of ABS or ASA do you find is best for printing the parts for a vzbot please, don't want to buy a brand I'm going to have too many issues with thanks....🙂
I like ESUN abs+ :)
Hey. Will you do a vid on how you decide the right tension?
can you explane the reason why sometimes you use toothed pullys and sometimes the smooth?
Because the belt go around sometimes with the tooth side and sometimes with the flat side.
Hey, I'm from Germany and I love your videos. Pls tell me where can I buy all of the aluminum parts.
From F3D.. links in description ;)
Thank you 😊
AMAZING BUILD!!!!!
28:40 is this a injection molding injection nozzle modified to be a Hoten?
hello, good work with both videos and printers, I would like to ask if there is a drawing for al panels and enclousure somewhere to download? thanks for the reply
Yeah its in the cad. One can export them but I thinm we have also the dxf files on github
You should check out the carbon fiber rails that igus have ( W series ) … although expensive, they should shave a few tens of grams out of that axis if you really are into weight saving 🤓
What's the advantage with AWD/QuadXY ? (if any other than cool factor etc.)
Awesome video as always Simon! I'm curious about the method of joining the belt to the rear of the X-carriage. How come you didn't go with a similar technique to the front side?
I've been using PTFE grease/oil since i was a kid, made me win races on my roller blades vs my friends on there 21 speed bikes 🥰
What the use of 4 steppers?
You did a great job to reduce the weights, but the inertia/mass of the motor will produce the same issues as a weight of the head...
Im not convinced about that :) this thing will reach craze accel and speed
@@Vez3Dwhy not)
Vz bro why there is no parts of f3d from long long time ?
There is just cuple of part but not everything which pushing us to see another selution....
parts should all be available . They were on a massive production and now its ready. But also, MEllow will now provide printheads and all other stuff too, and we are deploying reseller infrastructure worldwide. In USA too :)
50:40 - This would work if your frame is square too. Which is not allways true. The main thing is that your X gantry should be perpendicular to the Y rails. This is what you need to check in the first place. So I'd use a square tool for that.
Yes.
I just want to buy one ready out of the box
I think that AWD system can have a flaw built in. There will be two motors working on a single timing belt. If one of the motor will be half step shifted ralative to another you will have an extra tension on one part of the belt and lower tension on the other.
And the extra tension can be significant: if we suppose that the 6mm GT2 belt has 1e5 H/1 Young's modulus (E) than the tension force will be: ΔL/L * E = 0.1mm / 600mm * 1e5 = 16.7 newtons (more than 1.5 kg!!!).
600mm is just my assumtion of the belt length between two connected motors.
How do I calculated 0.1mm ΔL: full rotation on the stepper is 40mm, if it has 200 stepps/rotation than full step will be equal to 40mm/200 = 0.2mm. Then half step will be 0.1mm
To prevent this to happen you need to:
1) Loose at least one pulley of the two
2) Energise both motors
3) Tight all pulleys.
And this procedure should be done each time you change the belt tension.
Its in our build instruction/manual to sync motors like you mentioned... But... i think im going to remove this.. and the reason behind that is that i found that unsyncing them is not causing any issue but its helping a lot on VFA. :) since now the steps are divided
Also becauee its a bit hard to do when motors have flat spot shafts ..you have to make sure the pulley is not on the flat spot. But again.. i think this useless ..from my teating i get better result unsynced
Which filament were your parts printed from? they look wonderful!
Pccf
@@Vez3D Bro...where can i find the belt Camps???
Finished mine ;) (well cpap and top panel are missing) but its already printing..now calibrating..@Vez3D thx for the design..(i uploaded a short video on my account if you wanna see it :)
Nice ill check it out
40:00 - I think that it would be better to make a hole in the top plate to let the pulley go through. In case you need to pull it out for some reason. Without this hole you will need to disasemble the whole top plate.
How do I order the non-3d printed parts?
From F3D.. links in the descriptions.
Where can i find the belt clamps??
On github :)
@@Vez3D I thought so too at first..but I didn't find anything in the 235awd, 330 or usermod. .. maybe I'm blind... but can you please link
Got it....i was blind... But only the toothed ones
4 steppers for a/b ? Thats cool
Using aluminium profil 2020 sir?
Not though about using motor dampers? Aluminium has nasty resonance properties-dampers can make quite a difference to noise
I have those here...tested them before. They seem to add abit of flex to the motor..so not sure
why not use the same belt clip method on the rear as you did the front, just clip it first leaving the front long since it's easier to adjust
It will be more difficult i tink. But one can try and see if the belts aligned correctly
why did the choice stop on a beam made of aluminum? because the difference in thermal expansion between carbon and steel is much less than between aluminum and steel
it may seem like a trifle, but from experience I can say that due to such an expansion when printing a model with a large size of the lower layers, especially the first one, printing problems often occur despite the fact that the bltach removed the card, but due to the decent printing time of the first layer, the Z gap slowly leaves closer to edge of the table
it was just because of the look fo this one :) My enclosure dont go above 40-45c.. so thermal expansion is that big of a deal
Hello. Could you please, tell me a model of your eyewear?
Its oakley...cant rember the model sorry
👍
This episode is a drinking game. Take a shot everytime he saids "very easy".. you will not be walking.
You really need a new lens on your camera.. that field of view sucks...
I have severalls but i liked that angle personnally. You prefer wider?
@@Vez3D the constant focusing makes it hard to watch.. the content is awesome though...
@@agbhargihad7325 noted
Focus you are drunked? go home :))))
Yeah sorry about it...ill get better