Corvette Must Have: Clutch Remote Bleeder Line
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2020
- Is it worth installing a clutch slave cylinder remote bleeder line? Absolutely!! Check out how easy it makes changing the clutch fluid.
Tick Performance Clutch SpeedBleeder Line:
C5 Corvette / 98-02 F Body / 04-06 GTO - amzn.to/37fyRAt
Check with Tick Performance for other applications.
ATE Type 200 Brake Fluid - amzn.to/2RjzcNf
Genesis Brake fluid catch bottle - amzn.to/2gWtIIR
Automotive Syringe - amzn.to/30IkXV0 - Авто та транспорт
Great video! I installed the Tick remote bleeder when I did the clutch in my C5 FRC. Haven’t used the bleeder yet, but you just inspired me to. 👍
You'll love when you finally need to change the clutch fluid. It's just so easy to use. Money well spent!
@@ScrufsGarage question: I was given a $1,200 estimate for installing the slave cylinder and bleeder valve. Was told the bleeder valve was the primary cost. Is this a reasonable estimate? If so, I wonder if I should skip installing the bleeder valve. Don’t see how it pays off. Just asking!
@@markmath2883 I got the same. How do you know that’s the problem? Mine was the master cylinder
I also have a C5 FRC and I want to install a remote bleeder kit. Can you please tell me instructions on how to install it? I have the torque tube and intake manifold out of the car already.
Just received my Tick clutch slave cylinder and remote bleeder valve today. Ordered them in the hopes they will eliminate my clutch periodically sticking. Thanks for the video.
If you are going to all the work of installing a new slave cylinder, I would strongly consider an upgraded clutch if you don't already have one. Trust me when I say it's not a job you want to do twice. I replaced my clutch and slave cylinder at the same time and that's when my clutch sticking finally went away. But I believe the upgrade clutch to be an important part of the solution.
@@ScrufsGarage I had a new heavy duty clutch installed for only $2,600 several years ago. 😕. The sticking clutch has started again so I hope the Tick clutch slave cylinder a fresh fluid will solve the problem.
@@ScrufsGarage So okay, dumb me ordered the Tick components not realizing it would cost me $1200 - $1600 to install them. Going to return them and hope that bleeding the clutch will solve the problem, if not, install the clutch pedal spring thingy.
Yea, unfortunately, replacing the slave cylinder requires dropping the torque tube, which is a big job. The Tick bleeder installs in the slave cylinder, so that's the best time to install it. I've heard of some guys who were able to install the bleeder line without dropping the TT, but it's a nightmare task. You can try the "ranger method" of changing the clutch fluid and see if that helps any. I tried that and LPE return spring, but neither solved the problem.
I know you made this video 2 years ago but hope you see my comment. I tried bleeding my clutch today with the speed bleeder. I opened the top but but when I went to start bleeding it fluid came out of the too and also where the fitting meets the hose. Any ideas? Could the fitting have gone bad or did I do something wrong?
Great video man. I just ordered the stage 2 monster clutch kit, C6 slave, and speed bleeder from tickperformance. Its going in my 1st gen V
Nice combo! I think you're really going to like it.
I have 2009 corvette changed pads and rear brakes locked up I have no fluid to rears any ideas
Awesome video. Sure wish I had the remote bleeder set-up. I religiously perform the Ranger method on my 2000 and it always shifts better afterwards. Though 5/6 has been a lil bit sticky lately. Sure hope I don't have a problem with that 5/6 cluster getting loose on the mainshaft. 😬
You mentioned oil changes which begs the question: do you wait until 1-2% on your oil life or do you change off mileage? I'm at 8,000 miles since my last Mobil 1 and still showing 16% on the DIC. Just curious...
Appreciate'cha!!!
I wouldn’t recommend going past 50% on oil life
Any videos on installing a clutch bleeder. I keep seeing the ranger method everywhere. Did you make a video of that install on yours? That would be helpful for me
Good question, I looked back through my videos but I may not have recorded that part. I installed the remove bleeder when I had the entire torque tube assembly out of the car. So that makes installing the remote bleeder as simple as unscrewing the stock bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and then screwing in the remote bleeder line. I've heard of people managing to install the remote bleeder while the TT was still in the car, but honestly that sounds like a nightmare, haha. If you ever have the car apart for a clutch install, that's the perfect time to install the remote bleeder.
@@ScrufsGarage I got the oem bleeder back in after fully unscrewing it. I wonder if it's possible. I just need to see it done! The part where it goes into the slave. That would be amazing. Thank you!
I'm so tired of all the copy cat ranger method videos everywhere. Pumping the clutch 35x with dirty fluid doesn't sound good on the seals, and definitely not happening if you run SRF @$80/qt
Great video as usual. Unrelated question: i may have missed the video but when you removed and installed your engine, did you do it at home? From above or below?
I did all of the work at home, on jack stands, entirely by myself. A lift and a helping hand would definitely be nice, but it can be done. I dropped the rear subframe and TT as a single assembly first. Then I pulled the motor from the top (hood removed obviously). The front subframe needs to be lowered some to clear the batwing oil pan.
@@ScrufsGarage Thanks! Nice to hear you took on the challenge at home! I appreciate the reply. Thanks!
Great videos.
When you run the plastic tube into the bottle, is there fluid in the bottom so that you do not suck air back into the system when you are pumping the clutch peddle?
Not needed. The speed bleeder has a check valve so that it doesn’t pull air back into the system. All you have to do is pump the clutch pedal. Super easy.
Did your line have swivel fittings on both sides of it? Including the speed bleeder side? Or was that fitting where the bleeder goes solid?
Dumb question but I’m interested in ticks bleeder for my LS1 Camaro. Does that bleeder line just stay on the car at all times? Do you take the line off and just screw it back on every bleed?
It stays installed all the time. Typically the slave cylinder is difficult to access. So once you get the bleeder line installed, it stays there. And it makes bleeding the clutch amazingly easy.
@@ScrufsGarage Thanks for the prompt reply. Good to know. Im picking one of those up for sure! Great video.
Scruf, did you buy that handy plastic hose and bottle? Or did you make it? I need one. Thanks.
Nevermind. Found it in your description.
Awesome. I'm still using that bottle today. Very handy to have.
What if i have no pressure in thr clutch pedal
Hmm, it sounds like you could have an issue with the clutch master cylinder. Did you have that issue before installing the remote bleeder?
I have a c6 how do I bleed the clutch without that
Getting to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder inside the bell housing is extremely difficult. I heard some guys have managed to do it, but it's tough. So it you ever have the TT out and can get to the slave cylinder, I highly recommend the remote bleeder line. If you're just looking to change some of the fluid, you can use a method like this. ua-cam.com/video/LCLMMmpx9V4/v-deo.html It's not perfect, but helps exchange some of the fluid if you don't have a remote bleeder.
@@ScrufsGarage I figured it out thanks
Come on scruff get a better microphone
Ryan Foust ugh, bad news... that was the new shotgun microphone, haha. I think having the camera on the other side of the car was out of the mic’s range. Some people use a lav mic with a wireless transmitter back to the camera but that can get pricey.
@@ScrufsGarage I bet your right.
You have some good content BTW
I did the ranger method, now I have a horrible squeak coming from under the car when I press and release the pedal. I used wearever dot3. The. I read to use GM fluid and I rangered it again. Still squeaks, is it ok to drive or what is causing the squeak?
I’m sure you figured it out, but the squeak probably came from something else. The type of brake fluid you are using, shouldn’t matter (all DOT 3, 4, 5.1 is mixable/compatible).
Did you end up figuring out what it was? Hopefully your clutch pedal and gearbox are doin okay.