Great vid, really helped me doing the job. I already had the pressure pomp ordered a few months ago. I do have a Tech2 clone and a Autel Maxi AP200. I did it wiht the Autel. Cheapest option on the market i guess. Still impressed what i can do with that dongle and Autel software on the handheld. The Maxi AP200 cost about 80 euro, and 20 euro for a lifelong license for the GM software module. But your vid made teh difference, thnx!
Love your videos. Great job on all the details. I have an 09. I track it and change the fluid frequently during the season. I do Dot 4 because I need the extra headroom. First video I've seen addressing the ABS bleed on my car. Very appreciated!
I run Castrol SRF so this method is choice in not wasting fluid by trying to pull it out the bleeder screws. I just use a turkey baster at the master and some shop towels and wipe it out. I just needed to find the right pump to fit on the GM cap, thanks
GREAT STUFF! So many people overlook the ABS system when doing brake maintenance. The ABS pump/valve unit is the most expensive piece of the system and the one most likely to fail from bad fluid.
Just came by to say thank you for the super informative video! I just did this exact process on my 2008 base model. Other than my power bleeder not holding pressure and having to pump it back up a few lbs between calipers, I’d say it went smoothly.
Thanks for the video, I’m just about to do my C5 with a Xtool D7. I’m glad you have explained the not pumping the pedal. I’ve got an old Gunsons brake bleeder that I hook up to my compressor instead of a tire🏁
Bleed the brakes but need to flush through again as I couldn’t get a good seal on the reservoir as I only have caps for European models so either buy a cap or a complete kit like yours. Unable to get a cap here. No assistant available 😢Xtool D7 ran through the auto bleeding. Fitted NGK Laser Iridium & ceramic brake pads. Watch the first start today youtube.com/@iansouch?si=GH9vekKgRMJXmMFD Thanks again for all your informative videos 👍
Another very informative video. I didn't know it was possible to bleed the brakes this way. In another video you mentioned testing the ABS on some ice since it was possible most ABS systems in our cars don't get to work very often. That made sense since my truck doesn't get any ABS exercise in the summer. But I just couldn't bring myself to run my car in the winter up here in Canada. We certainly have some ice in the driveway though. So to bleed using an ABS brake bleed tool is a great idea. I bought the Motive Power Brake Bleeder and planned to bleed the brakes. I am glad you did this video so I can go one step further. Thanks for the cheaper suggestions than the Otofix. Up here in Cdn $ the Otofix is a lot of money. I am thinking the Autel Maxi Check will do. Still at $300 here it would make sense to let my shop downtown do it but I like to do it myself. I am fussy about making sure jacking pucks are used correctly. Great video. Thanks again.
I noticed you have quite a collection of sand and small pebbles between your rocker panel and lower fender. I found the same on my c6 and actually unbolted the fenders / rocker panels to more thoroughly blow out the debris(it’s a lot!).
Thanks for the detailed video. I never seen a brake job done your way. A mechanic friend of mine advised me to bleed high technology brake systems with a brake suction/vacuum kit applied at the calipers, identical in concept to the hand pump you had used to empty your master cylinder. Does "bleeding via suction" leave that 2% to 3% of the old fluid in the ABS system that you mentioned? A side note....I bought a brake fluid bleeder, a suction kit from Harbor Freight #1722 for $32.99 that utilizes my air compressor. It makes bleeding brakes by myself extremely easy. I don't bother using the auto-refill kit that is included. Instead, I stay with the master cylinder with a bottle of new brake fluid and keep the M.C. filled during the suction process. Again, I thank you for your video.
What I learned from watching this and other videos is that is time for me to sell my 04 Lemans Edition. I can't find anyone I trust to do anything to it and can't do this stuff for myself. It only has 27,000 miles on it and the prices are still high, so maybe this is the time.
6 months ago you made a "Menards" cover to keep cooler air going to your cold air filters. I'm planning on making the same if you agree it was worth it. Thanks in advance, Mark.
Finally got around to being able to do the bleed process with the scan tool and for some reason it’s not giving me the option like I saw in your video to hit the start option, It just says continue and then give me the directions to break manually, so I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong with the scan tool? I followed exactly how you were showing in the video! Advice would be greatly appreciated.
The owner's manual for my 2010 C6 says to use DOT 3 fluid for the brakes, but makes note of using DOT 4 fluid for the clutch. If DOT 4 is superior, why would GM specify DOT 3 for the brakes given that stocking and using two different hydraulic fluid types (DOT 3 & DOT 4) increases both production costs to GM and maintenance costs (two separate fluids need to be warehoused, stocked, & used, plus sufficient stocks of of both types need to be maintained because if we're low on one type we can't merely use some of the other type from a giant vat. We have to maintain sufficient stock levels of both.)? Wait a minute, with the master cylinder pressurizing gizmo and the OBDII tool automation program, you don't have to do anything but open bleed nipples and maintain master cylinder fluid level? It's not a two step process, first a manual fluid flush and then an automated bleed? Just bleeding the system flushes the fluid completely? Plus no bubbles entering the system to worry about? It doesn't seem like much fluid came out for a full system flush. How does the OBDII tool know when it's pushed out enough fluid?
I suspect it's because gm realize the clutch gets pretty hot in that enclosed area and because of that it has to have better heat properties. Dot 3 absorbs moisture slower so it lasts longer which is perhaps why they still have that listed for the brakes. If you're going to stay on top of maintenance, dot 4 is better for both - but most people don't stay on top of maintenance.
@@Toys4Life I suspect you're right. It's kind of a $hitty reason, though. They should have made the clutch fluid easier to change. I would have designed it that way, & then used DOT 4 all around. Any sane designer would have. Who needs all that extended maintenance/100,000 mile spark plug changing guidelines crud? I can change mine in 15 or 30k. What kind of Corvette owner demands that their fluid intervals be marked on the calendar using decades as the time unit of measurement? The Corvette is an anachronistic car in many ways. It seems GM engineers paid extraordinary attention to certain details, and then must have suffered from aneurisms mid-design. Consider the brakes: All rotors are left-hand rotors. Perfect for the ones on the left side, not so much for the ones on the right. They go to the trouble of making directional vanes on the Z51 rotors, but don't bother to manufacture left and RIGHT rotors? Idiocy. And then the rear rotors: GM goes to the trouble of designing in brake-cooling ducting, front and rear, and then in the rear, both rotors (well, really only the left rotor) pulls air from the non-brake duct side (the right rotor doesn't pull air from anywhere because the directional vanes are backwards). HELLO! Did someone have brain-tumors for breakfast? Lunacy. I love my C6, but when I get elbow deep, many things make me go "hmm." It seems they start with the best of intentions, and then at the last minute somebody says "hurry, hurry, we got to get this car built and in dealerships. Stop what you're doing, the design is DONE." & Then you have a car that I would never buy models from the first few years of a new design. Every generation I hear of the slew of problems they make their customers iron out for them. If there is a right way, and a wrong way, to make a rotor, why make it the wrong way? If I ever meet their engineers, I'm gonna ask them about that brake rotor thing. That one makes my head hurt. I just put new rear rotors on my C6. The ones I installed not only have correct directional vanes, they pull cooling air from the brake cooling duct side. I did the front ones about a year ago. Now I need to flush /bleed the fluid, 'cause its old. I've been trying to figure out what I need to do to do that. I've done that now. Thanks to your C5 jacking video, I've developed a strategy to lift all 4 corners, even though I only have two ramps and two jack stands. I figure I'll use those on the front, and then for the rear I'll beseech God to not crush me by causing an earthquake when I put in place whatever rickety rear-end support system I mickey-mouse together. He's been awfully obliging so far in the not killing me department. Thank you for the continuing information. I'm still kinda new to all this Corvette stuff. I joined a club whose members' Corvette acumen ranges from "know where the gas goes in and that's it," all the way through to guys using words I don't even understand that can quote cam lift numbers and fuel-rail pressure needs for differing induction systems off the top of their heads.' Cheers, & keep the rubber side down.
I watched both the C5 video as well as this video and was wondering on the C5. you didn’t use the scan tool just the pressure bleeder, my question is when you do it the way you did it on the C5 does that get the fluid through the ABS system, I’m assuming it does cause I think it’s all tied together, but if there’s some mysterious way that it bypasses the ABS just doing it the way you did it in the C5 without the scan tool. I’m curious to know? Thanks for all the great videos!
The only way to get all of the fluid out of the ABS unit is to use a scan tool with ABS bleed. You might be able to stir things up a little by exercising the ABS on a little ice, water or dirt road (right before a wash that is) but if a 20 year old car has never had its ABS blead, it might not be a bad idea to do so. The power bleeder is getting new fluid to 99% of the system though - the master cylinder, lines-hoses and the 4 calipers. Also this may be more important in humid states like FL vs Az as an example as brake fluid does absorb moisture (even in a "sealed" system through the seals and hoses and Master cylinder cover. Hope this helped!
@@Toys4Life yes sir! That answered what I was assuming and wanting to confirm. I actually have the scan tool that you used in the C6 video and will be doing that tomorrow. But I thought if I can just use the pressure way without hooking the scandal up to it if it would push it through the whole system, including the ABS module, then I would skip a step, but it makes sense to do the scan to away because, it works the module like you were explaining. Thanks again! Looking forward to more videos keep them coming. Make them longer helps me get through my day! 😉
@@Toys4Life Thanks for the prompt reply! Because of the abs pump issue I am trying to decide between the dealer doing the work (least desirable option) or buying the Motive system as well as the scan tool with "auto bleed" function. If I don't have the hassle of removing the wheels it may be worth it to me to DIY. The local Chevy dealer charged approx $160 for the process three years and about 3000 miles ago. I checked the moisture level this morning and it was 2% after calibrating the reader. I'm not sure it needs to be done right now but I like the idea of it. As they say, Corvette people are the worst when it comes to wanting it done now and right.
Regarding C6 Brake Flushing. If I use Motive Pressure Bleeder kit without the the ABS brake bleed tool. Will this method work and if so, how much flushing will occur ?
If any air was introduced between the master cylinder and your ABS unit (from changing a master cylinder for example) then it won't. If no air is introduced anywhere, and you just want to clean out the fluid, this should get about 98% of it.
Thanks for giving me the time and explanation(s). I have a suction style bleeder (yet to try) that uses an air supply to create a vacum. The idea of sucking at the bleeder screw seems like it could cause problems. Thoughts on this vacum style flushing technique ?? I like your power bleeder method. I have located the 1108 Motive Adapter on-line. @@Toys4Life
You like your ARMA trucks? I have had to stay away do to part availability in my location. Really like Traxxas because parts are easy to come by. Spending less time and money on this hobby after purchasing my C6 lol.
Part for Traxxas are definitely easier to come by. That having been said, I really like the Kraton 6s. It has been crazy reliable for me and since it has a bit of weight to it, I think it soaks up the bumps with the suspension better than the lighter traxxas cars. Kinda want an Xmaxx though too....
Make sure you got the right one, it fits your reservoir tightly, it should be pretty tight to get it screwed on, and if you do that it should hold pressure. I suppose it's possible you got it effective one? Do you have another GM vehicle with similar reservoir you could try it on? Make sure there's no gases or grooves on the top of your master cylinder reservoir that could have let air leak. Mine holds pressure long enough to bleed a couple breaks and then I top off the master cylinder and then pump it up one more time to do the second pair.
FWIW the thicker gasket leaks at about 12 psi for me. The thinner one works better up to 20psi (I didn't go higher.) If you have an old MC with a worn plastic thread and lock it might not get a positive enough engagement. Does your cap have a solid positive snap at the end of travel?
So when you bleed the abs fluid like this, do you still need to do the non abs fluid bleeding? Or will this bleed both systems? Because i know vice versa it doesnt work, like if you just bled your brakes without a scan tool, you would still need to have the abs bled
Great vid, really helped me doing the job. I already had the pressure pomp ordered a few months ago. I do have a Tech2 clone and a Autel Maxi AP200. I did it wiht the Autel. Cheapest option on the market i guess. Still impressed what i can do with that dongle and Autel software on the handheld. The Maxi AP200 cost about 80 euro, and 20 euro for a lifelong license for the GM software module. But your vid made teh difference, thnx!
Thanks for the feedback!
I like how you referred to the actual time it would take to run the abs pump. Great job!
Love your videos. Great job on all the details. I have an 09. I track it and change the fluid frequently during the season. I do Dot 4 because I need the extra headroom. First video I've seen addressing the ABS bleed on my car. Very appreciated!
Appreciate the comment!! - I have a feeling very few people actually flush the ABS with a proper scan tool bleed. Glad this helps!
I run Castrol SRF so this method is choice in not wasting fluid by trying to pull it out the bleeder screws. I just use a turkey baster at the master and some shop towels and wipe it out. I just needed to find the right pump to fit on the GM cap, thanks
GREAT STUFF! So many people overlook the ABS system when doing brake maintenance. The ABS pump/valve unit is the most expensive piece of the system and the one most likely to fail from bad fluid.
Just came by to say thank you for the super informative video! I just did this exact process on my 2008 base model. Other than my power bleeder not holding pressure and having to pump it back up a few lbs between calipers, I’d say it went smoothly.
Glad to hear, thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the video, I’m just about to do my C5 with a Xtool D7. I’m glad you have explained the not pumping the pedal. I’ve got an old Gunsons brake bleeder that I hook up to my compressor instead of a tire🏁
Sweet, let me know how it goes. I'm not familiar with the gunson's brake later but there's a lot of different options out there through the years.
I will, when I get round to it. I have to work outside & it’s been raining everyday🤬
Bleed the brakes but need to flush through again as I couldn’t get a good seal on the reservoir as I only have caps for European models so either buy a cap or a complete kit like yours. Unable to get a cap here. No assistant available 😢Xtool D7 ran through the auto bleeding. Fitted NGK Laser Iridium & ceramic brake pads. Watch the first start today youtube.com/@iansouch?si=GH9vekKgRMJXmMFD
Thanks again for all your informative videos 👍
Another very informative video. I didn't know it was possible to bleed the brakes this way. In another video you mentioned testing the ABS on some ice since it was possible most ABS systems in our cars don't get to work very often. That made sense since my truck doesn't get any ABS exercise in the summer. But I just couldn't bring myself to run my car in the winter up here in Canada. We certainly have some ice in the driveway though. So to bleed using an ABS brake bleed tool is a great idea. I bought the Motive Power Brake Bleeder and planned to bleed the brakes. I am glad you did this video so I can go one step further. Thanks for the cheaper suggestions than the Otofix. Up here in Cdn $ the Otofix is a lot of money. I am thinking the Autel Maxi Check will do. Still at $300 here it would make sense to let my shop downtown do it but I like to do it myself. I am fussy about making sure jacking pucks are used correctly. Great video. Thanks again.
I noticed you have quite a collection of sand and small pebbles between your rocker panel and lower fender. I found the same on my c6 and actually unbolted the fenders / rocker panels to more thoroughly blow out the debris(it’s a lot!).
Damn pebbles get everywhere!!
i did it your way came out great . thanks
Great to hear!
Thank you for the lesson.
My pleasure!
Great Video. Thanks for the instruction.
Thanks for the detailed video. I never seen a brake job done your way. A mechanic friend of mine advised me to bleed high technology brake systems with a brake suction/vacuum kit applied at the calipers, identical in concept to the hand pump you had used to empty your master cylinder. Does "bleeding via suction" leave that 2% to 3% of the old fluid in the ABS system that you mentioned?
A side note....I bought a brake fluid bleeder, a suction kit from Harbor Freight #1722 for $32.99 that utilizes my air compressor. It makes bleeding brakes by myself extremely easy. I don't bother using the auto-refill kit that is included. Instead, I stay with the master cylinder with a bottle of new brake fluid and keep the M.C. filled during the suction process.
Again, I thank you for your video.
Thank you!
What I learned from watching this and other videos is that is time for me to sell my 04 Lemans Edition. I can't find anyone I trust to do anything to it and can't do this stuff for myself. It only has 27,000 miles on it and the prices are still high, so maybe this is the time.
If you're in Minnesota...?
@@Toys4Life- You interested in buying, if so, delivery is possible?
No, I'm full right now - l was hinting at being the guy you trust to maintain it.
@@Toys4Life-That would be great, but you are a 16 hour non-stop drive away.
Hello, is it the same procedure for a C5 Corvette please ? Thanks for all your videos, they are very usefull and perfectly explained 👍👍
Yes, it is
6 months ago you made a "Menards" cover to keep cooler air going to your cold air filters. I'm planning on making the same if you agree it was worth it. Thanks in advance, Mark.
I think it helps in certain situations and I like the way it looks, and it is inexpensive to do. I will keep it (:-)!
Would love to see a review of that Autel scan tool you bought.
Coming soon!
Finally got around to being able to do the bleed process with the scan tool and for some reason it’s not giving me the option like I saw in your video to hit the start option, It just says continue and then give me the directions to break manually, so I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong with the scan tool? I followed exactly how you were showing in the video! Advice would be greatly appreciated.
Are you positive the ignition is on in the run position and the dongle connected wirelessly to the tablet?
The owner's manual for my 2010 C6 says to use DOT 3 fluid for the brakes, but makes note of using DOT 4 fluid for the clutch. If DOT 4 is superior, why would GM specify DOT 3 for the brakes given that stocking and using two different hydraulic fluid types (DOT 3 & DOT 4) increases both production costs to GM and maintenance costs (two separate fluids need to be warehoused, stocked, & used, plus sufficient stocks of of both types need to be maintained because if we're low on one type we can't merely use some of the other type from a giant vat. We have to maintain sufficient stock levels of both.)? Wait a minute, with the master cylinder pressurizing gizmo and the OBDII tool automation program, you don't have to do anything but open bleed nipples and maintain master cylinder fluid level? It's not a two step process, first a manual fluid flush and then an automated bleed? Just bleeding the system flushes the fluid completely? Plus no bubbles entering the system to worry about? It doesn't seem like much fluid came out for a full system flush. How does the OBDII tool know when it's pushed out enough fluid?
I suspect it's because gm realize the clutch gets pretty hot in that enclosed area and because of that it has to have better heat properties. Dot 3 absorbs moisture slower so it lasts longer which is perhaps why they still have that listed for the brakes. If you're going to stay on top of maintenance, dot 4 is better for both - but most people don't stay on top of maintenance.
@@Toys4Life I suspect you're right. It's kind of a $hitty reason, though. They should have made the clutch fluid easier to change. I would have designed it that way, & then used DOT 4 all around. Any sane designer would have. Who needs all that extended maintenance/100,000 mile spark plug changing guidelines crud? I can change mine in 15 or 30k. What kind of Corvette owner demands that their fluid intervals be marked on the calendar using decades as the time unit of measurement? The Corvette is an anachronistic car in many ways. It seems GM engineers paid extraordinary attention to certain details, and then must have suffered from aneurisms mid-design. Consider the brakes: All rotors are left-hand rotors. Perfect for the ones on the left side, not so much for the ones on the right. They go to the trouble of making directional vanes on the Z51 rotors, but don't bother to manufacture left and RIGHT rotors? Idiocy. And then the rear rotors: GM goes to the trouble of designing in brake-cooling ducting, front and rear, and then in the rear, both rotors (well, really only the left rotor) pulls air from the non-brake duct side (the right rotor doesn't pull air from anywhere because the directional vanes are backwards). HELLO! Did someone have brain-tumors for breakfast? Lunacy. I love my C6, but when I get elbow deep, many things make me go "hmm." It seems they start with the best of intentions, and then at the last minute somebody says "hurry, hurry, we got to get this car built and in dealerships. Stop what you're doing, the design is DONE." & Then you have a car that I would never buy models from the first few years of a new design. Every generation I hear of the slew of problems they make their customers iron out for them. If there is a right way, and a wrong way, to make a rotor, why make it the wrong way? If I ever meet their engineers, I'm gonna ask them about that brake rotor thing. That one makes my head hurt. I just put new rear rotors on my C6. The ones I installed not only have correct directional vanes, they pull cooling air from the brake cooling duct side. I did the front ones about a year ago. Now I need to flush /bleed the fluid, 'cause its old. I've been trying to figure out what I need to do to do that. I've done that now. Thanks to your C5 jacking video, I've developed a strategy to lift all 4 corners, even though I only have two ramps and two jack stands. I figure I'll use those on the front, and then for the rear I'll beseech God to not crush me by causing an earthquake when I put in place whatever rickety rear-end support system I mickey-mouse together. He's been awfully obliging so far in the not killing me department. Thank you for the continuing information. I'm still kinda new to all this Corvette stuff. I joined a club whose members' Corvette acumen ranges from "know where the gas goes in and that's it," all the way through to guys using words I don't even understand that can quote cam lift numbers and fuel-rail pressure needs for differing induction systems off the top of their heads.' Cheers, & keep the rubber side down.
I watched both the C5 video as well as this video and was wondering on the C5. you didn’t use the scan tool just the pressure bleeder, my question is when you do it the way you did it on the C5 does that get the fluid through the ABS system, I’m assuming it does cause I think it’s all tied together, but if there’s some mysterious way that it bypasses the ABS just doing it the way you did it in the C5 without the scan tool. I’m curious to know? Thanks for all the great videos!
The only way to get all of the fluid out of the ABS unit is to use a scan tool with ABS bleed. You might be able to stir things up a little by exercising the ABS on a little ice, water or dirt road (right before a wash that is) but if a 20 year old car has never had its ABS blead, it might not be a bad idea to do so. The power bleeder is getting new fluid to 99% of the system though - the master cylinder, lines-hoses and the 4 calipers. Also this may be more important in humid states like FL vs Az as an example as brake fluid does absorb moisture (even in a "sealed" system through the seals and hoses and Master cylinder cover. Hope this helped!
@@Toys4Life yes sir! That answered what I was assuming and wanting to confirm. I actually have the scan tool that you used in the C6 video and will be doing that tomorrow. But I thought if I can just use the pressure way without hooking the scandal up to it if it would push it through the whole system, including the ABS module, then I would skip a step, but it makes sense to do the scan to away because, it works the module like you were explaining. Thanks again! Looking forward to more videos keep them coming. Make them longer helps me get through my day! 😉
Can you do this on a C6 2005 Z51 without removing the wheels if you have a 4 post lift?
It's going to depend on your wheels and how much room there is between the caliper and the rim to open the bleeder and attach a hose.
@@Toys4Life Thanks for the prompt reply! Because of the abs pump issue I am trying to decide between the dealer doing the work (least desirable option) or buying the Motive system as well as the scan tool with "auto bleed" function. If I don't have the hassle of removing the wheels it may be worth it to me to DIY. The local Chevy dealer charged approx $160 for the process three years and about 3000 miles ago. I checked the moisture level this morning and it was 2% after calibrating the reader. I'm not sure it needs to be done right now but I like the idea of it. As they say, Corvette people are the worst when it comes to wanting it done now and right.
Regarding C6 Brake Flushing. If I use Motive Pressure Bleeder kit without the the ABS brake bleed tool. Will this method work and if so, how much flushing will occur ?
If any air was introduced between the master cylinder and your ABS unit (from changing a master cylinder for example) then it won't. If no air is introduced anywhere, and you just want to clean out the fluid, this should get about 98% of it.
Thanks for giving me the time and explanation(s). I have a suction style bleeder (yet to try) that uses an air supply to create a vacum. The idea of sucking at the bleeder screw seems like it could cause problems. Thoughts on this vacum style flushing technique ?? I like your power bleeder method. I have located the 1108 Motive Adapter on-line. @@Toys4Life
You like your ARMA trucks? I have had to stay away do to part availability in my location. Really like Traxxas because parts are easy to come by. Spending less time and money on this hobby after purchasing my C6 lol.
Part for Traxxas are definitely easier to come by. That having been said, I really like the Kraton 6s. It has been crazy reliable for me and since it has a bit of weight to it, I think it soaks up the bumps with the suspension better than the lighter traxxas cars. Kinda want an Xmaxx though too....
I tried using the motive power bleeder but it wouldn't hold pressure. What did you do to maintain the pressure?
Make sure you got the right one, it fits your reservoir tightly, it should be pretty tight to get it screwed on, and if you do that it should hold pressure. I suppose it's possible you got it effective one? Do you have another GM vehicle with similar reservoir you could try it on? Make sure there's no gases or grooves on the top of your master cylinder reservoir that could have let air leak. Mine holds pressure long enough to bleed a couple breaks and then I top off the master cylinder and then pump it up one more time to do the second pair.
FWIW the thicker gasket leaks at about 12 psi for me. The thinner one works better up to 20psi (I didn't go higher.) If you have an old MC with a worn plastic thread and lock it might not get a positive enough engagement. Does your cap have a solid positive snap at the end of travel?
So when you bleed the abs fluid like this, do you still need to do the non abs fluid bleeding? Or will this bleed both systems? Because i know vice versa it doesnt work, like if you just bled your brakes without a scan tool, you would still need to have the abs bled
If it's been a while, I would do both ways. If it's only been a couple years, I would probably just do the power blader without the ABS.