We are in the metro Vancouver area doing a new construction driveway and walkway using New stone Standard pavers. Driveway has a slope and existing grade is much lower than the grade planned for the driveway (1 to 4 feet difference). The plan is to use 3/4" minus road base for fill and base, and then HPB for the bedding layer. If we are to use polymeric sand, what brand and type would you recommend? (I think Techniseal and Gator are available here. I'd have to check if it's some other brand.) We are also considering Romex. Is there any difference in longevity and weed growth between polymeric sand and Romex? The videos are really helpful. Thank you!
I just started using Romex this year so I can’t say about longevity and weed growth. I’ve used Azpects Easy Joint which is similar for pedestrian applications and it has held up well. I wouldn’t use a permeable jointing compound if you plan to use 3/4” minus as your base though. For poly sand I like TechniSeal nextgel
I have limestone patio tiles where the polymeric has washed out over the years. The contractor replaced that failed poly with torpedo sand and my wife hates the color difference between the lighter almost white limestone and the brown/beige torpedo sand. It appears that most suppliers near us only have torpedo and masons sand that is beige. I’d prefer not to do polymeric again. Is there any alternative that is closer in color to limestone that I could use as a sweep in into the joints? I realize any sand without binders like polymeric will wash out and need more frequent replenishing. Thanks for any response. Love your channel!
Ohh that is tough. You may be looking into a polymer modified grout. Ardex has a lot of colors available. But I don’t like using it unless they are laid on a concrete base.
Wow, I can’t believe how fast you replied! Thank you! And yes it’s a tough spot when you don’t have a happy wife. The local hardscape supplier suggested that rather than masons sand to use finer limestone screenings but I recall your video saying that you should not use limestone screening although that was for base application. Does that critique apply to jointing as well ? I don’t expect to have much depth need as the torpedo sand is pretty well impacted in the joints. This would be maybe a 1/4 on top to get the color that the wife would approve. Thx again for any insight!!!
That may be something you want to use. I personally wouldn't because I prefer something in there that will bind itself to the stones. But I also would not use torpedo sand because of this. I'd say get a handful of it from the stone yard, bring it back home, see what she thinks, then proceed. you could even do a little portion of the project to see the results first.
I just finished applying polymeric sand to my paver patio while it was still damp…. Now I seem to have some stains on the stone pavers. How do I remove the stains??
I would start with a hot water pressure washing. If that does not take care of the staining, you would have to then wash with a polymeric sand haze cleaner.
It’s best to use a plate compactor for the vibratory compaction and not a ramming action. In a pinch, guys have used a hand tamper. Just make sure you have something to protect the pavers
Hey when you use 3/4 gravel as a base do you use 3/8 1” bedding base? Most importantly what I was concerned about if you use open grade base and bedding does polymeric sand just keep falling into that base when you’re sweeping it in and compacting?
yes, always use the 3/8 or 1/4 chip on the 3/4" base. I find that there is about 10% more use of polymeric sand in these applications, but it does not just keep falling into the base the gaps are just not large enough. Some people use non-woven geotextile in between the base and the bedding layer. I do not
I like TechniSeal Nextgel personally. Try to use a roller compactor when consolidating that sand on those slabs. A compactor with a pad will work but will likely crack a few.
@@iamahardscaper thanks, will take a look at renting a roller compactor. Was considering getting gator maxx g2 - is that just marketing gimmick or actually a good product ?
"Why is my polymeric sand failing?" Because polymeric sand is garbage. If have joints greater than 1/8 in, use Easy Joint and you'll never look back. If you have joints under that, watch this. Great video, informative as always. I'd love to see you do a breakdown of a laser versus an altimeter (U-level) on a site. We've been using u-level for years and are wondering if we should switch to a laser, don't really think that's the case, but would love to see a comparison on a build.
Yes it does seem like the industry sentiment is slowly moving towards those semi-permeable jointing compounds. Appreciate the suggestion! Will definitely cover that this year at some point 👍👍
I just regrouted my patio a month ago. It felt like it hardened just fine but we got rain last night and all my polymer sand is wet, it reactivated. I'm at the end of my rope. Is this easy joint bette? Will it actually stay hard?
@@silverrush1411 We absolutely love the product, and it does harden to grout like texture. We've used it in all of patio applications except one, and it's fantastic. Super easy to use, legions less restrictive than polymeric - add water, fill the joints, no worry clean-ups. There are a couple things to keep in mind: if your patio is a state of failure, the EasyJoint will fail (think of it as if you had tile grout, and pulled the tiles apart - what would happen to the grout?); it does not work well with tight (narrow) joints. I'd say 1/8" or greater. There are similar product to EasyJoint that is supposed to work with tight joints, but we haven't used them yet so I can't speak to them.
@PuppyStomper87 my paver patio is only 5 years old and the joints are over 1/8 ". I just don't understand how the grout could reactivate and wash out. I folled the directions and made sure not to over or under water. It started to repel water so once it did that I moved. I removed all my old grout that was done by contractor due to the same thing and moss growth. What are the cons to this?
Yes, I used to do them when I was first starting out. Only if it is just a sand problem. If it is a weed problem, its almost always a full lift and re-lay. I learned that lesson.
We are in the metro Vancouver area doing a new construction driveway and walkway using New stone Standard pavers. Driveway has a slope and existing grade is much lower than the grade planned for the driveway (1 to 4 feet difference). The plan is to use 3/4" minus road base for fill and base, and then HPB for the bedding layer. If we are to use polymeric sand, what brand and type would you recommend? (I think Techniseal and Gator are available here. I'd have to check if it's some other brand.) We are also considering Romex. Is there any difference in longevity and weed growth between polymeric sand and Romex? The videos are really helpful. Thank you!
I just started using Romex this year so I can’t say about longevity and weed growth. I’ve used Azpects Easy Joint which is similar for pedestrian applications and it has held up well. I wouldn’t use a permeable jointing compound if you plan to use 3/4” minus as your base though. For poly sand I like TechniSeal nextgel
I have limestone patio tiles where the polymeric has washed out over the years. The contractor replaced that failed poly with torpedo sand and my wife hates the color difference between the lighter almost white limestone and the brown/beige torpedo sand. It appears that most suppliers near us only have torpedo and masons sand that is beige. I’d prefer not to do polymeric again. Is there any alternative that is closer in color to limestone that I could use as a sweep in into the joints? I realize any sand without binders like polymeric will wash out and need more frequent replenishing. Thanks for any response. Love your channel!
Ohh that is tough. You may be looking into a polymer modified grout. Ardex has a lot of colors available. But I don’t like using it unless they are laid on a concrete base.
Wow, I can’t believe how fast you replied! Thank you! And yes it’s a tough spot when you don’t have a happy wife. The local hardscape supplier suggested that rather than masons sand to use finer limestone screenings but I recall your video saying that you should not use limestone screening although that was for base application. Does that critique apply to jointing as well ? I don’t expect to have much depth need as the torpedo sand is pretty well impacted in the joints. This would be maybe a 1/4 on top to get the color that the wife would approve. Thx again for any insight!!!
That may be something you want to use. I personally wouldn't because I prefer something in there that will bind itself to the stones. But I also would not use torpedo sand because of this. I'd say get a handful of it from the stone yard, bring it back home, see what she thinks, then proceed. you could even do a little portion of the project to see the results first.
Thanks so much!!!
I just finished applying polymeric sand to my paver patio while it was still damp…. Now I seem to have some stains on the stone pavers. How do I remove the stains??
I would start with a hot water pressure washing. If that does not take care of the staining, you would have to then wash with a polymeric sand haze cleaner.
question for poly sand, is it require to use plate compactor or can i use a manual steel tamper?
It’s best to use a plate compactor for the vibratory compaction and not a ramming action. In a pinch, guys have used a hand tamper. Just make sure you have something to protect the pavers
Hey when you use 3/4 gravel as a base do you use 3/8 1” bedding base? Most importantly what I was concerned about if you use open grade base and bedding does polymeric sand just keep falling into that base when you’re sweeping it in and compacting?
yes, always use the 3/8 or 1/4 chip on the 3/4" base. I find that there is about 10% more use of polymeric sand in these applications, but it does not just keep falling into the base the gaps are just not large enough. Some people use non-woven geotextile in between the base and the bedding layer. I do not
@@iamahardscaper ok thanks, I’ve been wanting to switch but been concerned about that.
is one brand better than the next?
Most contractors have their favorite to install. Most manufacturers have a more expensive option which is usually better
What polymeric sand would you recommend for a patio where the stone is BWS avari and brock paverbase was used?
I like TechniSeal Nextgel personally. Try to use a roller compactor when consolidating that sand on those slabs. A compactor with a pad will work but will likely crack a few.
@@iamahardscaper thanks, will take a look at renting a roller compactor. Was considering getting gator maxx g2 - is that just marketing gimmick or actually a good product ?
Gator is fine, i've heard a lot of other contractors have had troubles with it though. I've maybe had a couple.
@@iamahardscaper thanks for the heads up. I couldn’t find the one you suggested locally. Rona has the techniseal ez sand - would that work well?
I would buy from a landscape supplier and not those big box stores. The quality is not the same
"Why is my polymeric sand failing?"
Because polymeric sand is garbage. If have joints greater than 1/8 in, use Easy Joint and you'll never look back. If you have joints under that, watch this.
Great video, informative as always. I'd love to see you do a breakdown of a laser versus an altimeter (U-level) on a site. We've been using u-level for years and are wondering if we should switch to a laser, don't really think that's the case, but would love to see a comparison on a build.
Yes it does seem like the industry sentiment is slowly moving towards those semi-permeable jointing compounds.
Appreciate the suggestion! Will definitely cover that this year at some point 👍👍
I just regrouted my patio a month ago. It felt like it hardened just fine but we got rain last night and all my polymer sand is wet, it reactivated. I'm at the end of my rope. Is this easy joint bette? Will it actually stay hard?
@@silverrush1411 We absolutely love the product, and it does harden to grout like texture. We've used it in all of patio applications except one, and it's fantastic. Super easy to use, legions less restrictive than polymeric - add water, fill the joints, no worry clean-ups.
There are a couple things to keep in mind: if your patio is a state of failure, the EasyJoint will fail (think of it as if you had tile grout, and pulled the tiles apart - what would happen to the grout?); it does not work well with tight (narrow) joints. I'd say 1/8" or greater. There are similar product to EasyJoint that is supposed to work with tight joints, but we haven't used them yet so I can't speak to them.
@PuppyStomper87 my paver patio is only 5 years old and the joints are over 1/8 ". I just don't understand how the grout could reactivate and wash out. I folled the directions and made sure not to over or under water. It started to repel water so once it did that I moved. I removed all my old grout that was done by contractor due to the same thing and moss growth. What are the cons to this?
Have you ever gotten a job to pressure wash and re-sand? I feel like at that point it’s always lift and relay or a full redo.
Yes, I used to do them when I was first starting out. Only if it is just a sand problem. If it is a weed problem, its almost always a full lift and re-lay. I learned that lesson.