If you have a Gigabyte 30 series card the answer is automatically yes. Horrible quality from the factory. Had a lot of them show up to my shop and they are all thermal throttling hard. A quick repaste and instantly better performance.
Haven't had that problem with my eagle oc 3060ti and that thing was mining every second I wasn't gaming for a long time. I got the card pretty close to release and quit mining on it when btc crashed, so well over a year iirc.
I've got a 3080TI that I repasted when i got it a couple years ago. Temps didn't improve, but they didn't get worse. So i was forgot about the whole thing. Saw this video, that thought 'I'll take it apart again to see if any torn thermal pads are preventing proper contact'. Which they were, so now I've sorted the pads and repasted again. Temps are down by 8⁰c on my inital benchmark. Thank you Jay!
Actually, Jay it's better to card be a little warmer when you want to swap thermal paste for easy removal of heat sink from GPU. It's especially important when paste is old.
Important Note! If you are not replacing thermal pads (you should, stock ones are usually bad) then remounting can change the pressure applied with where the pads ripped and how they make contact again. I didn't replace the pads on my 3090 and had noticeably higher temps, then when I replaced them properly (make sure to match the thickness) then my temps dropped by around 4 degrees from better with far better memory and hotspot temps. Then I deshrouded it >:)
I had to replace the pads along with the paste on my EVGA 3060 XC. The pads were completely shot. Post thermal pad replacement I got my load temps to drop by atleast 10c. Replace the pads and paste the same time on the RTX series cards when re-pasting.
@@noquedaniuno I think I ended up using 1.5mm thermal pads if I remember right. It would be best to measure with calipers though to know for certain on a 3070 FTW3. I heard you could go as thick as 2.0mm, but at that point I would be worried about it being a wee bit thicker than needed.
@@DarkArmedDaddy01 Never use pads, always use thermal putty as replacement for the vrams. Avoid K5pro like the plague because its dogsh*t. Snarks Domain does tests on putties and even super cheap ones preform outstandingly.
i repaded and repaste my gpu and when i use heaven unigine benchmark i see clocks speed dropping and going back all the time it is not making proper contact?
I've actually, a couple of days ago, repasted my 1060 and it dropped 10ºC..I've never done that and I was praying really hard to not damage my GPU since I don't have any money to buy a new one. Actualy it's really easy and I've gained experience and a more stable card
Man, I really wanted to repaste my 1070... I got it used (2nd hand) and it got years in it, but the task to disassemble it and screw it up prevents me doing it cuz I don't have money to buy new graphics card 😅... *Do you only repaste it or change the thermal pads too?
@@A.Akbar1983 I just repasted and cleaned the dust that was on the pcb and fans. I was also afraid to kill the GPU but turns out that it was really simple. Old GPU seems to be more simple that the new ones to disassemble. I was also lucky that the pads didn't tore apart but it's like Jay said, you can continue to use the old ones.
*_"I've actually, a couple of days ago, repasted my 1060 and it dropped 10ºC"_* That doesn't mean anything, especially after you wrote "and cleaned the dust that was on the pcb and fans". Secondly, I'm sure that the temperature test wasn't done properly either, because I can think of numerous reasons why such a test wouldn't be accurate.
I think it’d be better to replace the thermal pads when repasting. They are sitting there as long as the paste, they are ripped and would have less conductivity (they are pretty low to begin with). The problem is finding new pad with the same thickness and be challenging sometimes.
Some manufacturers are wonderfully helpful when you ask. I asked EVGA for the thickness of the pads for my 2070 and they gave me a super helpful labelled diagram 😭. Rest in peace EVGA.😔
@@kazuvikingI'm actually looking into this as I found the pad I put in my laptop is too thick (the chasis is slightly bent now) and I'm thinking about replacing it. Any suggestions on what brand/model?
Repasting my 3060 brought hot spot temps down by ~12C. Totally worth it. The entire top of the die wasn't in contact anymore as the paste had pumped out over time.
Don't buy crappy GPU? Two years ago I still had an ancient GTX 970 no issues whatsoever, all fans original. Mostly silent though. Since it could run below 60°C with an extra case fan near there even in many games. I gave it away, but there's some little human still gaming on it casually. That's a 9 y.o. card by now 😏 A friend of mine had GTX 960 for the same 7 years. Not so silent, but also no issues whatsoever. How is this even a topic? Did you extreme OC or something?
I repasted my EVGA 1070 earlier this year after using it daily since 2016. Temps only dropped by 4C, probably because the factory thermal paste was still wet after 7 years of heavy daily use. EVGA please come back to the GPU space ):
@@steve42069master AiB factories tend to use more durable paste, which has slightly worse thermal conductivity right from the start, but lasts longer. So that original paste was still in great if not perfect working condition by their standards. It's just mixed differently.
@@bufordmustang302 yes do it I also have a 6650xt and my hotspot temps were 95-100c but my global temps were like 65c and after repaste some games like rdr2 still get hot but max temp ive seen with a fan curve is 85c and that was in rdr2 but in modernwarfare 2019 I used to be at 85c on hostpot and now its 70c and do you have an xfx model?
I'd always heard Palit ware cheap option GPU's, but it was my only option to get the 3090 during the first round of launch cards (before any scalping prices took hold). So I expected to hate the Gamerocks look and have to give up warranty to repaste it, but it ran with the best instantly. So much so that undervolted it, it can still be overclocked and run silent 30% fans. It's gone up a degree or two over 3 years so I may repaste next year but 3 years and Palits not really needing any repasting.
I still own Rog 1070ti for almost 5 years. Since the day i bought it it was at like 80-84 degrees under load. After 3 years of use i decided to repaste it with thermal grizzly and now since then its sitting at nice 70-72 degrees max. Friend of mine same story with MSI 1080ti. I agree would be nice to see how other brands fan out.
@@N1c0T1n3__or before the warranty ends, the advantage of the thermal paste they use is longevity. It doesn't perform the best but won't degrade as fast as the top performing paste. So just do it when you get the card.
old man here - I recommend risking opening up GPU to re-apply thermal paste only every 10 years for heavy daily computer users. I have 7 desktop computers w/independent GPUs at home running. I have been building computers since 1980. Old paste is fine for a decade maybe more. Manufacturers of paste are biased in their recommendations as are these computer parts shillers like Jay. GPU and CPU makers are always looking for reasons to blame for their breakdown, so this paste re-application recommendation is a staple scapegoat for when the CPU/GPU fails. It's not like oil at all, thermal pastes last a long time. When I opened up ~6year old paste - they are fine. When I looked at ~10 year-old pastes (arctic silver), they were brittle and dry AF. The newer Arctic MX-4 to MX-6 are even better and last longer than the old crap. Change it out about every 8-10 years and you'll be fine.
If you're already gonna open up the card (for an at home user) it's probably worth it to replace the pads as well. It adds to the complexity cause of pad thickness and all that but you can get some decent gains on mem and vrm temps. Plus you don't have to try and salvage the factory pads if they tear.
The problem is finding a reliable chart that tells you what thickness the pads are on your card. I would totally re-paste and pad my card if I could find reliable info on the thickness of the pads. I don't want to buy 4 different thicknesses just to get it right.
@@Hetsu.. I had enough of wasting money finding the right pads for my card so I opted with thermal putties and my temps is way better than before, new putties nowadays has the consistency of playdough and doesn't make a mess unlike old putties that sticks on the pcb
@@halfbossswxbox360 much better, the k5 pro only has like 5.3w/m.k of heat transfer while newer thermal putties nowadays like the cx-h1300 or upsiren u6 pro has 13w/m.k of heat transfer. The newer putties are easier to use too, they are like soft thermal pads unlike the oily formula of the k5 pro.
I can confirm that removing old crusty paste makes a difference. Now, if you recently applied paste you can take the cooler off and place it back on with adding a small amount if needed.
@racistpandagod it should be ok. It just depends on the spread and how much is left where it counts. If it compresses to almost clean, you may want some back on.
I did exactly the same thing recently with my 1080Ti and my friend's 1080. I cranked up first three lines in MSI afterburner, ran 3D mark stress test, then cleaned everyting using Isopropyl alcohol, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Cryonaut and changed the old dry thermal pads for new Arctic ones and ran the test again. I got 8-10°C difference instantly, worked like a charm. Definitely worth it. Also I've got a tip for you @JayzTwoCents - add some guitar picks into the (awesome) IFixIt toolkit, it's great for opening plastic housings. Keep up the good work, I really like to watch your videos.
I repasted and replaced the thermal pads my 1080ti FE and it made a huge difference. Something like a 20 degree temp drop and it didn’t sound like a hair dryer any longer. The factory paste job was terrible too. When I removed the heatsink it showed that only about half the die was covered.
If you have a 7900 XTX, like I do, the pump out seems to happen much sooner. The multichip design seems to have an effect on it. I replaced my paste with TG Kryosheet, so I wouldn't have to worry about pump out again, as well performs better than stock, so double win there.
@@willowz6 Just seeing this comment. It was about 5 months for me, and I honestly probably didn’t need to, as the hot spot temps were the same as it was new at 21C delta at 465W, but we’re starting to creep a little. I mainly did mine because I took the card apart to flash a 550W VBIOS to one of the bios chips, and figured since I had it apart I might as well swap paste with TG pad, so I wouldn’t have to take the card apart again. As the 550W would certainly cause pump out quicker I’d think. I like to hardcore overclock, and technically third in the world in TimeSpy with a 5800X3D and 7900XTX. If you’re playing with the card stock, and never plan to OC, then you’re probably have longer before pump out occurs.
I actually just did this yesterday on my MSI Gaming X Trio 6950XT with Corsair XTM70 Extreme paste and it brought my temps down from 92° to 86° with a lower fan curve to boot, which is a win! The old paste was hard and dried out
@Sulto_ Since not long after the 6950XT came out I've had it. But it's run very hot right out of the box and I've never been too pleased with the temps. I've still got the GPU fans at 3000 rpm. The cooler on this Gaming X Trio just isn't big enough, makes sense why the Sapphire and Powercolour cards are a slot larger
Keep in mind that some GPUs use thermal putty instead of thermal pads, which is more likely to be non-usable at the end. It is best to research ahead what size and type of thermal interface you need before opening up your GPU, to avoid down time. If you have difficulty separating cooler from PCB, you can gently blow hot air with heat gun / hair dryer on the back of the card. This will soften the bond and make for easier separation. Use your judgement, surface should not be too hot to touch.
i would say yes, i still have my GTX 950 going strong after 7 years, i did repaste and it helped my card a lot, it's nice to take care of your PC parts and clean them, because you never know when you need it.
I like how Jay was talking about the 3070 being low power at 220W! How many people remember when you only had to use a heatsink/fan if you were overclocking (I'm including the CPU here too)?
I thought that was a pretty good amount of wattage for a decently higher end card, hell i hhave an old 970 4GB and thats a 200w card flat out. And thats much older than 30 series....
I was given a GTX 1080 a few months ago. It was a nice upgrade from my 950 so that was cool. Trouble is, the fans would spin up to max under any load (game, or benchmark tools) and never go back down until I rebooted. Replacing the thermal paste resolved that, and now the temps are lower, without the fans maxing out. I wanted to replace the pads on the PCBs but couldn't find any locally and didn't want to wait. Overall, it now works great.
TBF your overall build if old cpu/chipset/ram/psu can also reach an aspect of voltage creep/degradation that IF/WHEN ppl upgrade to a beefier GPU...leads to aspects where temps cannot be resolved regardless of re-paste. Due to high system temps/operation. Good thing a re-paste at least was an improvement/qol improvment for you. Its LARGELY why i advise my friends to never get an entry/budget build with "hopes" of upgrading bc often lower end psu/12v rails, and boards/vrm/chipsets cannot sustain the higher REQUIREMENT/Vdroop a beefy gpu entails. Glad to hear your system is more ideal towards your desires/needs.
@@anhiirrThat's OK, if you have the budget for it. I tend to go a generation behind when I do a new build for budget reasons. I've only rarely been able to build a complete new system with the latest and greatest. My current system is about 8 years old and in need of being replaced. One day, when I have the funds, it'll happen, but not any time soon.
Yes!!! It's always worth monitoring temps over time as well and when you see changes to temps it can give you a clue if you need to repaste, clean the fans etc.... Cheers Jay, appreciate all your, and your teams, hard work!! Stay awesome.
I noticed with the 4090 line, changing the tdp to 80% is actually more beneficial than undervolting, as the 90's are voltage limited after all@@TheBlueBunnyKen
@@PeteDunesso long as aib's use decent paste to start with. I have no problem repasting a new card so that I know it's done well. My new 3080 12gb that I got last year was repasted after testing the gpu for thermals and got a 5 degree drop. All depends on what you want from your system. A lot of people are happy with out the box performance and there is nothing wrong with that, and then there are others, like myself, that want the best performance they can get, and there is nothing wrong with that either.
@@slysi84 My gpu out of box was too warm for my liking, not too worrisome (80°c), but I want it to last as long as possible. I repasted and undervolted it, now it runs at 74°c under load. At most it would reach 75°c, that's with mainly stock fan curve, before I had to use an aggressive fan curve to reach those temps. That was before repasting and undervolting, it doesn't seem like much, but every degree counts for performance
They can still *try* to deny the RMA. Basically, they assume all customers are incompetent, and if the sticker is damaged/missing they *may* try to blame the failure on the user, not the defect. Protip: Heatgun/Hair Dryer + Razor Blade/X-Acto.
Jay, speaking about repasting, you *gotta* test paste longevity! You keep recommending KPx, but there are plenty of posts of short in use time before temps start to rise (as little as 1 month before temps rise). I'm using NT-H2, and only about 3 months later my CPU is already idling in the mid 50's C when it was in the mid to high 40's C when freshly pasted.
noctua pastes pump out fast on gpus, i tried a few premium pastes and settled on arctic silver 5. it doesn't pump out because it sets in place around the die, just my 10 cents.
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut does this. Good for a few weeks at most then Temps start to climb. Meant for extreme OC really. Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut on the other hand is a fantastic paste. Both my Intel Core i7 13700K and EVGA RTX 3080 12GB have had TG Hydronaut on them for almost a year and both are cool and steady like a surgeon.
I built a pc in 2019, and i had it in storage for the past year and a half. When i finally got it out, the graphics card was totally inoperable. Redoing the thermal paste on the gpu fixed it!
One thing to consider: there would likely be some sort of change to thermals by switching even to new paste as manufacturers tend to favor a long term stability of paste over the absolute best thermals. I’ve been really happy with PTM7950 phase change pads from Honeywell, after 1000 cycles of -55*C to +125*C it’s thermal conductivity increased from the off the line performance according to the data sheet and is designed for sustained, high thermal loads for a decade or more. Nvidia is using some variant of it (maybe just 7950) according to the thermal engineer in the GN video about the 4090. The upside is no worry about pump out or dry out, should maintain at least thermal performance of new, if not improve even a decade from now. ModDiy sells it (they’re in Hong Kong but I trust them over aliexpress sellers) but may be sources here in the US now too.
+1 PTM7950. I have an Asrock 7900xtx, and it had hotspot temps of 100c+ under heavy loads right out of the box. Temp delta would exceed 40c and approach 50c in those scenarios. Repasted with some high end thermal grizzly- No change. Repasted with my noctua cpu paste-No change. Repasted with the highest end thermal grizzly- No change. Was about to RMA and tried authentic Honeywell PTM7950 as a last resort, and I was floored that it completely solved the problem. Hotspot temps do not exceed 80c under the same heavy loads, which means there is a hotspot temp reduction of about 25c, and temp delta is about 20c under the most intense conditions. Most of the time the temp delta is 10-15C. ptm7950 is truly incredible stuff.
I have MX-4 under my H100 on my x79 rig built in 2012. This PC has run 24/7 365 and only down if the power goes out and the temps are still 30c idle, max 55c under running cinebench. Still going strong to this day.
What's the specs on this build buddy? Just interested and curious as all :) and I'm assuming you have kickass air flow, My H510 with wraith stealth prism cooler and undervolted 3600 gets around 73 max on cinebench, but that's to be expected with the bog standard stealth cooler that is meant for light workloads. But I'm happy that it's waaaay under 90degrees even at worse case scenario, Which is cool to see :D
When it comes to mixing pastes, it usually doesn’t matter. Most are silicone based. I actually like to use the old paste as a polish and really rub it down. Worst case, it’s just dirty. Best case I forced thermal material into the microscopic peaks and valleys for a better contact patch.
Test doesn't mean much since 3 years is bit too early for a repaste. You should find 5-6 years non-repasted card and test fresh paste on it. And obviously clean it beforehand so that you don't affect the result when you repaste and inadvertently kick dust out.
I'm using a winter 2019 Sapphire 5700XT that's never been taken apart. More than willing to let someone conduct experiments on it, if I can get a suitable replacement. For the record, I agree with you, I'd love to see what the results are with a moderate to heavy use 5-6 year old card.
I just repasted mine after 3 years and it was not too early at all, the paste was already dried and cracking and my card was probably going to die if I left it like that. Gigabyte 3070 Gaming OC.
My 1080 is about that old and used it for mining for a good 4 years never repasted and works fine, clean the dust out of it and the temps go back down to what they were when new.
My 1080 is about that old and used it for mining for a good 4 years never repasted and works fine, clean the dust out of it and the temps go back down to what they were when new.
@@jonathanchalmers7844yes because that’s a gigabyte card, and a 3000 series gigabyte card. Terrible pads and paste they used. Companies like evga, higher end msi, and asus usually use good paste and pads, evga obviously being the best out of those. Same with colorful they do a pretty good job from what I have seen
All my GPUs new or used get thermal gel pads yes, they are quite pricey at £22 for a pack 0f 12 but they are the best cooling seclusion available for your GPU.
No, in my experience you should avoid opening a new GPU unless you need to perform maintenance after a couple years, or if you’re installing a water block. The thermal pads might not fit as good as factory condition and thermals may even be worse. I’ve experienced it, I don’t do that anymore and I used to on everything. Been doing this 20 years. If, however, thermals are bad, that’s a different story. I got an MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk X EK that had the water block installed incorrectly from the factory. The other one was fine, I had 2. Older cards, or if you buy a used card last gen or older, sure, repaste for sure. I have twice in the past couple months and thermals improved.
Well said. These cards often use a specific thickness for thermal pads, and if you don't get the right thickness (and it's impossible to know what the thickness needs to be, you can't measure that by looking at used pads) you risk getting worse temperatures, or it's even possible that you wreck you card, and with those high prices lately, is that really a risk you want to take? On top of that, I always uesed top brand cards and never saw any substantial increase in temperatures over time. You know what the most common problem is? Lazy people who don't do enough maintenance, who also might have their computer on the floor (dust magnet) or who smoke in the same room. And lastly; anyone who likes to run his games with unlimited frame rates is putting way too much stress on a card, resulting in higher fan speed, and increased temperatures over longer periods of time.
@@PeteDunes I usually either look online for the information on pad thickness, or buy a set for that card. If I can’t do that I get out my calipers and measure the pads thickness, assume they may have been compressed a bit if the size isn’t close to a standard pad thickness and get the next size up. You can get a set of calipers at harbor freight for $10-$20 good enough to do the job.
One recommendation of mine is getting a more viscous paste or a paste with less risk of pump out. I have had hotspot issues specifically with the Noctua NT-H1 on my ASUS TUF 3080 (never had any problems with it on my CPU.) After replacing the thermal pads for better VRM tempuratures, the NT-H1 consistently experienced pump out issues after a couple months. Switched over to the Arctic MX6 thermal paste and (fingers crossed) have not experienced any hotspot issues for over a year.
both noctua pastes h1 and h2 were only good for 3-6 months on my gtx 1080. on cpu it was fine, i went back to as5 it's proven to be stable for longer than anything else I've tried.
I used to buy MX-2 because it was cheaper. MX-4 didn't seem worth it for the minor difference in performance. Now I buy it because it is more viscous. That turned out to be the reason for the slightly worse performance, but the trade-off was longevity. I've not had to repaste a single GPU after using the MX-2. I'll probably try one of these newer ones one day, but I still have some and I don't plan to throw it away.
Mx-6 on cards are pretty good, mine was almost a year since the repaste and there was no temp and hotspot changes. There's also an alternative paste called the GD-2, performs the same as an MX-6 but twice more viscous.
I've been using NT-H1 on my 1080 Ti since the end of February without any issues. Saw a nice 11-12C drop in temps and it's still going just as strong as back then rarely going over 60C on core and 74C on hotspot (though that has started to change getting closer to Australian Summer). I was initially concerned about pump out before repasting but after talking with someone who used it with good experience I thought screw it I'd try it and just re-paste again if necessary later on if need be, but like I said said so far my 8 month experience with it has all been good.
I'll tell you what. I installed a new CPU lately on my 2nd desktop, put the paste on and capped it with the cooler. As always, Intel stock coolers cause issues with the pin heads, so I had to remove it and reinstall it till I get a better grip in between. As I took the cooler off the chip, the paste was unstuck, half stayed on the chip, and half on the cooler. I was lazy to clean it so I left it as it was and reinstalled the cooler. Then I checked the CPU temp and it was higher than a regular one (my new case is also not the best in air flow hits). I kept on testing it, from full throttle, idle state, cold boot..etc, all the same, hot after a short while. So I took the cooler off again and cleaned all the paste off the chip and the cooler and i added a new round. Put the cooler back on, everything clipped well and....................................temperature dropped 5 degs Celsius. This goes for every chip.
I feel like the thermal sheets best use case would be for GPUs. Let's be real, even if people know they ought to, nobody wants to crack open their GPU just to repaste it. So the sheets being able to just be put in there and basically never thought of again(if their marketing can be believed) seems like the ideal scenario. Might be an interesting scenario for a future curiosity video.
12:20, not only should you use a criss-cross pattern when screwing anything onto a die you should also do it when unscrewing if even if anything is super unlikely it is still a bare die...
Would be interesting and fun to see the effects of kryonaut extreme and kpx mixed together. To find the best mix ratio of the two. Purple is a cool color.
@@jamztiberius68 The timing of this reply is insane. I was in the middle of repasting a GPU with kpx. Maybe my first repaste with kryoX was subpar, but after a few stress tests this new kpx application seems to have better hotspot temps.
I was getting weird buzzing sounds and performance issues on my EVGA 2080ti when playing War Thunder for extended time or sometimes not extended time of playing.. I would need to reboot to remedy but it got worse and worse lately and would happen earlier on while playing. I re-pasted yesterday and all of a sudden no more issues...the answer is YES!! YES!! YES!! Thank goodness because I initially thought it was a bad Power Supply going bad..
If your temps are below 80, 90 for hotspot then its probably fine. If higher, good idea to repaste. Also PTM7950 is very interesting and lasts very long.
I bought a 2080 ti rog strix that the previous user had repasted and changed thermal pads. He said it was "defect" causing games to crash and freeze, sometimes the entire pc. When it arrived I did some testing and find that hotspot went over 100 degrees really fast which made me stop the test. After opening it up I saw that the guy had used 2.5mm thermal pads across the board and the thermal paste was not even. So I ordered correct thermal pads (1mm and 1.5mm) along with mx-6. After cleaning and removing and installed the new thermal pads along with new thermal paste it barely went over 75 degrees (hotspot) on stress tests. So I agree Jayz! Do not change the thermal paste if its not needed especially if your not aware of important things like the thickness of the pads and how thermal paste should be applied and how it works. And usually there is no need for it at all. Loved the video.
Repasted my Gigabyte 2070 Super OC about a week ago Massively improved my thermals! The stock paste was dry and barely there, improved idle temps by like 10-15C and under load by 15-20C on average!
I have tried around 8 different brands of thermal paste for CPUs and GPUs over the past 13 years and found MX-4 to still be the best at longevity and cooling.
Their newer MX-6 is even better and I'm shocked it wasn't included in this video. Really love that stuff. Arctic makes really great thermal paste and it's not too expensive either.
IMO i find the mx-4 to "last longer" but the mx-6 to sustain better operation/temps but require a re-paste more frequently. IMO its got to be the blend/compound/composition. The mx-4 seems more viscous also "takes" quicker....MX-6 as it beds in...gets a little more warmed up/spread as IMO it appears to be thicker to spread/bead out. Like its more "DENSE" and manages heat/newer voltage operation/high chip count cpus better...but general use/gaming loads the MX-4 lasts longer or dropps off its "performative" aspects in a more cost effective manner. If youre a system builder/used system builder/flipper. If its for your own personal build and you implement OC/PBO etc....and game a lot on AAA or API/ENGINES that utilize a lot more a CPU has to offer than something like CS/SIEGE/Valorant. Then yeah MX-6 is better esp if you already VALUE system health/maximized performance/operation...and re-paste yearly...youll get your $$$ worth from MX-6...but if youre against the idea...id consider mx-4 for a laptop or itx build...or something with a PITA cooler/mounting/access. OFF this basis. ESP if you dont game much and are a content creator/work station end user that also likes to game but doesnt want to spend time tinkering/tuning/opening up your system bc you genuinely lack the free time...XD. There are also other options that "last longer" but dont necessarily offer the most "performance" But again this is for end users wise enough to implore undervolts or a CPU that doesnt entail high overclocking/turbo like a k chip...or R9 cpu....which comes with its territory of thermals that are integral to overalls for system health/temps. IMO OC level CPU/250w+ GPU should lead to a system with a proper HIGH quality psu and tight voltage range of operation. With a larg enough chassis/volumetric airflow for ideal vrm/cpu/ram temps...even chipset. IMO build/use case often differentiates TEMPS/sytem health its not something paste will typically fix. As someone thats tried to run a 3950x on air in an ITX build....You realize you either learn to live with eco/mode/clock ranges....or have to invest in a better PSU/CHASSIS/COOLING which in an ITX build can easily equate to an added 300$+ to your budget/build. I wound up parting it out...for something with more ideal air flow...and a "laptop" if i needed mobility. Among other builds/setups. Its why i laugh too bc mx-6 says "gaming consoles" as one of the applications. Granted its probably a voltage CREEPING 3700x/apu with a 6600xt attached to it or w.e using shared soldered ram.
Consider undervolting as well. That 3070 is at 1980mhz at 1.05 volts. My founders 3070 is at 2000mhz at .95 volts. My average temps are usually around 60 and my Hotspot never goes above 70
I replaced the thermal paste on my RTX 2080 ti (just over 3½ years old) just a few days ago and temperature dropped by 15-20°C, I'd say it's totally worth it. Before I replaced the thermal paste, my hotspot could easily reach 108°C (226°F) and has not been above 86°C (186.8°F) after replacing the thermal paste.
Dude I need to do the same thing with my card rn. I believe I have the same card (rtx 2080ti fe) and am dealing with similar temps. Do you have a video or a reference that you used to take it apart and repaste? I'm realizing I need to repaste but I've heard of some blue paste or pad that breaks in the rtx 2080ti fe when taken apart and it isn't really replaceable. Anyway if you have any references you used for your situation I'd love to know how you did it. Thanks!
homie I am still using my AMD Radeon HD 7870 from 2012 and it is still moist and ready to go. Not sure what you people are doing with your video cards to dry them out. I literally leave games running day and overnight and no issues.
I always hate the thermal pasting portion of builds or in this case re-pasting a gpu. While I'm typically not a perfectionist when it comes to anything else, there's something about the thermal pasting process where I never feel content after I complete the step. Pretty much every time I do it I immediately want to pull it apart and re-paste it. Then I end up firing everything up and everything runs cool, but I still fell uneasy about it. I watch countless people online do it and they'll just use the pea in the middle method, they seat it and they never look back... they're so nonchalant about it even though they seated it horribly. This channel helped cure some of the paranoia associated with over pasting. But the last cpu cooler I did ended up having the thickest thermal paste I've ever come across and the spreading process ended up being a pain in the dick, so then I'm spreading it with my fingers and then worried about air and once again everything seems to have gone well, but I still feel uneasy about it. I can't believe that there isn't a better system in place at this point or even a little run off reservoir instead of the run off going straight into the pins (which I realize typically doesn't affect anything, but I still don't want this goopy crap in my pins). There are thermal pads of course but from what I gather they don't run as cool.
hi jay, i do wanna see the difference between using thermal putty compared to thermal pads for the gpus though, since there's always a dilemma on what thickness thermal pad that needs to be used. also, using ptm 7950 might be pretty good for the gpu die as it negates the need of having enough mounting pressure etc, which may make a decent chunk of difference (laptops typically do not have good mounting pressure and it works well, i wouldn't think that it'll work well as a cpu thermal paste though, but for gpus it might)
Good idea. Snarks Domain has some good videos on putties and charts, redoing GPUs with U6 Pro for example gets better thermals than even redoing the stock pads for Gelid Ultimate pads which have higher ratings on the pads than stock ones. Goes to show the thermal ratings numbers are not standard between companies. I am redoing my water blocked GPU and even my motherboards stock pads with U6, UX Pro and PTM 7950 now though staying liquid metal on the CPU with thermal grizzly new extreme version LM.
@@StuartBoyerkeep me updated, i'm curious about the results as well, I hate finding ideal thermal pad sizes and thermal putty pretty much solves the problem.
@@FateSoulzZreplaced my 3070's pads with the cx-h1300 putty, core temps dropped around 3c and hotspot is down from +16c to +11-12c since the cooler contacts the die better.
I would trade the 1-2 degrees difference for longevity. I use MX-4 products that are guaranteed to work and did work for 8+ years. I used debeu8r products which give great and quite noticeable temp difference but needs to reapply around te 2 year mark (in my experience) which is a hassle of a job. This is for thermal paste btw not liquid metal.
I usually keep my GPU and CPU paste for 2-3 years and then i change it, ofc with usual PC cleaning every 6 months or so(filters every month). It also depends how much you use them, if you game or do a lot of work i would recommend to keep the paste for 2 years max, after that you will notice a spike in temps.
Certain newer cards (30 and 40-series FE, 6000 an 7000-series reference, as well as the Radeon VII) use phase change material, and those “pastes” are probably better than any aftermarket paste can be in my experience from laptops, but not all companies are using phase change material so this is a really great video to see. Edit: I’m pretty sure Igorslab is screaming at that thermal paste application, but I don’t mind
my xfx 6650xt had hotpot temps at 95-100c from the factory and ive read that alot of 6000 series gpus have hotspot issues before a repaste (edit after repaste my avg hotspot temps are down to about 70c)
It will be good if you do the same test but with the replacement of the thermal pads. Those thermal pads on an EVGA 3070 are old. So I think the radiator is hotter because chips are hotter because those thermal pads are old. Plus the chips also need good cooling.
PTM7950. Come on Jay, you should know this stuff is getting adopted now, especially for laptops and GPUs. Make a followup in a few months with the same paste job vs. a repaste with PTM7950.
Wow, what perfect timing! I just got all my stuff in to re-paste my 2080Ti this weekend. I know you didn't make thid video for me. But you did. Thanks!
If anyone comes across this later, the repaste worked! Paste was dried out AF. Temps went from 79 with fans turboing every 5 mins to steady 69 with fans at 90% max. Hot spot went from 107 to 83. Crazy!!
@@FlexLex I have a 2080 and got huge issues with the temp and the mhz i dropping cuz of thermal throttling. Im just scared of the thermal pads is totally dry because the card is like 6 years old. But i really think that the gpu die could use a repase. What about your cards thermal pads did you replace them?
Repasting well used cards is always a good idea, especially if it's been well used for a while, but I would also put new pads on as well, your experience with the torn thermal pad is precisely the reason why.
good video, but please be more mindful about the camera angle because sometimes we only see the back of your hand like after 19:15. I want to see what your fingers are doing 😄
Was worth it for me: was running into a weird issue where one or two of the fans on my Strix 2070S would randomly click to 100% RPM in certain situations in game. MSI Afterburner temps were fine, but HWMonitor showed hotspot temps of over 100°C. I was very anxious about repasting, cause I was worried about damaging/breaking my GPU, but a fairly easy job later the hotspot temps were down a full 35 degrees!
@@bigsalmonfish4906 Honestly it's so easy it's worth it. It's only 4 screws to remove the entire heatsink. Even my thermal pads stayed completely intact (which is something I was also worried about, cause I didn't have replacements on hand^^)
Wasn't quite as bad with my 2080 but I still noticed temps going up after less than 2 years of use. Found the thermal paste had pumped out. Repasting brought temps back down again, but it seems Asus really used some awful thermal paste in the 2000s series. Which is a shame because other than that the cards are solid.
my rule is if my gpu once reached 88c under load, to me thats bad. because my usual gaming temp is at 60-70. so far, my msi 3080 z trio havent reached that temp since i bought it at launch. really good stock paste from MSI right there
Yesterday my friend applied new termal paste on eagle rtx 3060 and temperatures went from 75 celzius to 88 - 90. He did it with no problem with older cards. Maybe he messed something with termal pads.
You've replaced a phase changing material with huge longevity with standard thermal paste. Don't repaste GPUs that use Honeywell's TIM (usually a variant of PTM7950). You will suffer from pump out effect much sooner with standard TIMs versus the Honeywell's TIMs
@@ravenovatechnologies6554Industrial level phase change thermal pad. It turns into paste above 40C and has the same thermal conductivity as high end thermal paste. Also because it is "industrial level", it last way longer than even the best thermal paste before starting to degrade
If your pads get ripped I'd recommend just replacing them, if you can't find any information online about the size, try the manufacturer. ASUS sent me a detailed technical diagram with the thermal pad specs for my GTX 760, just took them a while.
I know everyone is afraid of liquid metal, but I've been using it on my GPUs with great results for 3 different GPUs. I also like to just buy new, high quality, thermal pads to use when I repaste. Good on you for showing that it didn't work correctly at first and needed another go over.
Jay, you could test Honeywell PTM 7950 it's a pad for CPU and GPU. Just have to cut for your needs. I tested results are great. I'm using it since five months with both AIO and still temp's are totally fine. I know that there's a problem to buy original product but I believe you gonna find it.
I repasted my (2 year old) Red Devil RX 6600 XT (with Arctic MX-6) and it was totally worth it …. even posted it on Reddit with pictures two days ago as I was so thrilled about it 🥳 Difference between GPU and hotspot temperature was up to 30 degress, highest temp was 111 degress (as shown by HWiNFO64). Now it is at max. more than 30 degress less and difference GPU and hotspot temp max 15 degress 🙏🏻
Agreed. I find using a heatgun works well for this, but ive recomended people use a hair dryer so less of a chance to overheat any components. (Also because most people have one around) Hot enough to feel hot, not hot enough that it hurts to touch is a good range and will let the cooler come of usually just by its own weight.
I understand this feeling because I don't like changing thermal pads/paste either but if you have to replace the thermal pads it's really not hard at all so don't let that scare you.
It's just about researching your GPU and being confident that you know what size pads to buy. If you're really worried by some extra and get a way to measure the old ones so you can figure it out yourself even after researching your exact GPU. The actual act of replacing the pads is really easy btw, as for the pad size it's just some research. I think the main thing you want to figure out is the right thermal paste that will actually last, a lot of the higher performing stuff doesn't have longevity.
@@haies09 yep and using the "Same" thickness is how those and the 3070-3070ti also had bad FE/vram temp "issues" as those played out and they had to "revise" them. And even "re-launched" the ampere FE cards which was something i never considered/anticipated
Today I repasted my GPU and CPU because both of them had dried to dust (and having already replaced all fans to alleviate my PC crashing due to overheating, repasting is my last hope). I was a bit dejected when I didn't see any change, but you reassured me when you said that I might not get lower temps immediately.
I think half the time it's not a matter of repasting, it's fixing the paste/pad job from the factory, which on mine barely counted as the original pasting
The card will work fine without repasting, however repasting will most probably lower temps, so for those watching closely for gpu and other temps repasting will prove beneficial for their mental health. Even new cards might need repasting in that aspect. ( I did repaste mine 😛)
XFX Merc 310 Speedster 7900XT, was thermal throttling from normal use, never reaching advertised boost clock, idle 60C, 100C consistently at load. I disassembled and repasted and it works as advertised, hitting advertised boost and never going over 75C. So yeah, sometimes they are assembled like crap at the factory.
I recently bought an EVGA 1080ti ftw3. Thermal paste was probably 7 years old so I figured I should do a repaste. I did some research and a lot of people were talking about pump out with thinner thermal pastes. I bought some cooler master cryofuze which is a diamond particle infused thick paste. It was really hard to apply, sort of like silly putty. A lot of bad reviews on it with people thinking there was something wrong with it. But that's how it supposed to be. The idea is that a thicker paste wont pump out with thermal cycles. It dropped my temps 6-7c so I'm happy.
My Gigabyte 3080 had terrible pads on the memory. The GPU was still cooling effectively, but the memory was like 100C all the time. New pads brought it down to a more manageable 80C.
New paste can remove 3-10 Celsius, depending on condition of previous application and age of that paste. It can be beneficial or game changing, as it will also allow you to run fan at lower speeds
I've gone to the thermal grizzly new pad. Will last forever. And is better than paste and nearly like within a few deg of the liquid metal. But.. Literally will last forever no repasting ever. Amazing transfer of heat.
I've been building computers since the rigs started being towers back in the late 90s. There wasn't as many fail safes as -their- there is today. I still stand by Artic Silver to this day. Take your time and do it right the first time.
Seconded! Was thinking about if there's a specific reason not to use those pads on a GPU. But if there isn't, I'd be real interested to see the results of that swap!
@@pierogipete3527 mostly due to the mounting/pressure/consistency...its mostly inherent to AIB/mounting hardware etc....im sure there are "SOME" that graphine are viable with...IMO its just the lack of DATA to support this application/viability. EVEN then if its that hard/cost effective to implement/gpu to gpu....it definitely explains why "content creators" arent testing this....bc of how many genuinely wont be able to properly cool...vs those that do....and the range of time/process to create said "content" IMO doesnt really APPLY to a "large" enough demographic to waste their time doing this sort of work in the first place. Ive seen/heard about ppl/builds of ppl doing things like this....with gpus....while their "MAIN" was in the process of being lapped(their H20 block) for a more ideal paste/liquid metal type applicaton...and theyve fiddled with graphine/etc type interfaces while not using their water block with their "ENDGAME" gpus. Other than that not that many ppl using them for actual PRACTICAL reasons...bc IMO nobody wants to take apart their GPU/re-insstall their cooler 2x in the same week...if the mounting/pressure and pad doesnt TAKE. If that happens to you ONCE its ENOUGH to potentially not consider it again IJS...buf if reddit/etc threads substantiate a MODERN era GPU being mount/pressure viable for a pad...and it shows HUGH QOL improvements for idle/load temps....I think this could be a "TREND" other manufacturers implement down the road. Or it could be the other way around 5700xt strix with a bad factory mount...and an owner/end user/2nd hand owner...trying to remedy their temps...and the only way to get proper mounting could be from the "depth/mills" a pad has to offer over paste. So as far as that goes....if you appear to be out of options/dire situation a pad could be an avenue worth considering of most conventional methods/means dont suffice.
If you own an MSI, it’s absolutely necessary. I thought my 3080 had gone out and it was recommended that I re-paste the GPU. I did this, and now it works even better than before. This GPU was a year old at the time.
Thanks Jay. I recently assembled a refurbished Dell Optiplex 750 along with an old Radeon 4100 low profile card as to have a "recycled" gaming computer. I repasted both the i7 and Radeon chips with fresh thermal paste. As to your conclusion, paste is meant to get into the nooks and krannies, so suppose as long as contact was made initially (however many years ago), repasting may not be as much worth the hassle as we think it is. The Radeon from 2016's was from a dental office, and probably never used. The i7 on the other hand had crusty and 'dark' remnants left behind during the cleaning process. The cooler block was staind from the thermal paste oil.
my EVGA 3080 FTW3 put in work since i owned it. and i did a rebuild recently and yea. a re-paste was MUCH needed! it was basically clay. the biggest issue is knowing thermal pad sizes and finding them. other than that. was super easy. and HUGE notice in temps! about 10 degree C on my repaste. mcuh less fans constantly reving too.
Absolutely yes. I have a zotac watercooled 3090 and after a year of use I made a repaste and the hotspot temperature gone 15 degrees down and overall gone down 3-4 degrees.
While this is definitely an exception and not the norm, I had an EVGA GTX 1060 that needed to be re-pasted right out of the box. It was one of the single fan models but it was the SC which had a better heat pipe cooler vs the basic solid aluminum cooler of the base model. I still thought it just had an inadequate cooler despite that, because from day one, it ran very hot and super loud. I eventually tried to water cool it using one of those kits that adapts an Asetek cpu cooler to the card. The adapter was defective so while waiting to exchange it, I just slapped the stock cooler back on with some new paste. The card was now running several degrees cooler and significantly quieter. It was also boosting MUCH higher too. I just returned the adapter as well as the cooler, because the card was perfectly fine after that. It was either a bad mount or bad paste right out of the factory.
I repasted a 1070 FE card earlier this year with Noctuas paste, temps dropped, fan speed dropped, core clocks shot up. I don't remember the exact numbers but it was significant. The card was used fairly regularly for about 5 years and it has a ton of life left in it.
My research is from a while back like 2009-2015. Some TIM will last years before needing to be swapped in CPU applications. However the same TIM in GPU applications will last 1 year due to heat cycles, block pressure, and direct die cooling etc. Higher viscosity TIM (kind you would need to spread in CPU's) would last years specially when just getting mid range TIM. Now more in more recent times times I have found a lot of manufacturers using mid grade to high performance TIM, for example EVGA uses Shin Etsu so repasting is not as necessary as it used to be. I've repasted several brands now and saw very little difference, however I noticed that optimizing the block contact and replacing the thermal pads yielded better results. I was able to replicate on 5x 3080's that doing the block optimizing, and thermal pad replacement would increase boost clocks and introduce more stable performance. Block optimization consistent of figuring out the space between the block and the vrm's, phases, and vram then finding thermal bad of adequate size. Also using shims, to add additional pressure, but not too much this part is a little risky if you don't know what you are doing.
Cool! That's the card I'm rocking. I picked it up used about two years ago, and this definitely scratches that curiosity itch about repasting it. Probably not worth it now, but once I pass it down to my kids in a few years, I'll open this video and paste it then.
I picked up a used 5700XT recently. Screw seals still intact so had never come apart. I repasted it and put new thermal pads on it. Hot spot went down 7 degrees on average and gpu temp went down around 4 degrees. So, definitely helped an older card.
id also consider an UV those cards are known for having inherent cooling issues out of the box AIB were better off other than the strix/mounting fiasco. At the time a massive OC was nice to see how close the 5700xt could PUNCH to a 2080ti...in games like RDR2 or BFV and FC5....but TBH its so detrimental to system health/gpu health. AMD cards have always been known to NEED an UV to truly be ideal. Not that i could have any more to say about NV/FE cards which are riddled with WHINE. As if most modern AMD cards dont come with their fair share of whine.
if you replace the paste you have tyo have new heat pads i now just clean mine without taking the heatsink of if i had new heat pads yes i would take it apart
I just repasted my RTX2080ti and wow is there ever a difference. I used to power throttle it to keep the fans from blowing at 100 percent randomly for about 5 seconds every time it hit 80 degrees. Now running at full power it is steady at 70C. If you arent scared to take it apart it really is worth it. Im so happy right now.
yes because your TIM might be old or bad. but no one should be using anything beyond PTM7950 (or any phase change pad for that matter), this way you will almost stop worrying about TIM getting bad (which means you'll maintain it less other than cleaning out dust) as well as pump out issues.
commenting before i watch the video to share my experience. I just repasted my Chinese SKU Zotac 3070 a few days ago and the results are drastic. GPU temp went from an average of 82C to 73C while gaming, and hot spot temp went from average 104C down to 84c while gaming. Before, I was constantly crashing in a few select games, and now I haven't crashed at all. Also, the Noctua SW edition thermal paste kits are very nice, having that spatula to evenly coat the chip was clutch. I hate worrying about whether it's been evenly distributed when i close it up.
If you have a Gigabyte 30 series card the answer is automatically yes. Horrible quality from the factory. Had a lot of them show up to my shop and they are all thermal throttling hard. A quick repaste and instantly better performance.
Haven't had that problem with my eagle oc 3060ti and that thing was mining every second I wasn't gaming for a long time. I got the card pretty close to release and quit mining on it when btc crashed, so well over a year iirc.
I repadded a 3080 gigabyte and it made a huge difference
Can confirm, I repasted my GPU cause it was overheating hella and I kid you not it dropped the temps by 25-30 c 😂
My 3070ti vision oc had that issue - stayed at 85 no matter what. Ended up sending it back to them to fix because it was still under warranty 😅
What about gigabyte 40 series
I've got a 3080TI that I repasted when i got it a couple years ago. Temps didn't improve, but they didn't get worse. So i was forgot about the whole thing. Saw this video, that thought 'I'll take it apart again to see if any torn thermal pads are preventing proper contact'. Which they were, so now I've sorted the pads and repasted again. Temps are down by 8⁰c on my inital benchmark.
Thank you Jay!
Actually, Jay it's better to card be a little warmer when you want to swap thermal paste for easy removal of heat sink from GPU. It's especially important when paste is old.
Important Note! If you are not replacing thermal pads (you should, stock ones are usually bad) then remounting can change the pressure applied with where the pads ripped and how they make contact again. I didn't replace the pads on my 3090 and had noticeably higher temps, then when I replaced them properly (make sure to match the thickness) then my temps dropped by around 4 degrees from better with far better memory and hotspot temps.
Then I deshrouded it >:)
I had to replace the pads along with the paste on my EVGA 3060 XC. The pads were completely shot. Post thermal pad replacement I got my load temps to drop by atleast 10c. Replace the pads and paste the same time on the RTX series cards when re-pasting.
@@DarkArmedDaddy01 i have a 3070 ftw3, just for reference. What size of pads did you use?
@@noquedaniuno I think I ended up using 1.5mm thermal pads if I remember right. It would be best to measure with calipers though to know for certain on a 3070 FTW3. I heard you could go as thick as 2.0mm, but at that point I would be worried about it being a wee bit thicker than needed.
@@DarkArmedDaddy01 Never use pads, always use thermal putty as replacement for the vrams. Avoid K5pro like the plague because its dogsh*t. Snarks Domain does tests on putties and even super cheap ones preform outstandingly.
i repaded and repaste my gpu and when i use heaven unigine benchmark i see clocks speed dropping and going back all the time it is not making proper contact?
I've actually, a couple of days ago, repasted my 1060 and it dropped 10ºC..I've never done that and I was praying really hard to not damage my GPU since I don't have any money to buy a new one.
Actualy it's really easy and I've gained experience and a more stable card
Man, I really wanted to repaste my 1070... I got it used (2nd hand) and it got years in it, but the task to disassemble it and screw it up prevents me doing it cuz I don't have money to buy new graphics card 😅... *Do you only repaste it or change the thermal pads too?
@@A.Akbar1983 I just repasted and cleaned the dust that was on the pcb and fans. I was also afraid to kill the GPU but turns out that it was really simple. Old GPU seems to be more simple that the new ones to disassemble.
I was also lucky that the pads didn't tore apart but it's like Jay said, you can continue to use the old ones.
What were your original temps? When my 2080 gets to 70c its super noisy. If I could get it to drop to 60c under load that'd be great.
what about the thermal pads for the vram? did you change those?
*_"I've actually, a couple of days ago, repasted my 1060 and it dropped 10ºC"_*
That doesn't mean anything, especially after you wrote "and cleaned the dust that was on the pcb and fans". Secondly, I'm sure that the temperature test wasn't done properly either, because I can think of numerous reasons why such a test wouldn't be accurate.
I think it’d be better to replace the thermal pads when repasting. They are sitting there as long as the paste, they are ripped and would have less conductivity (they are pretty low to begin with).
The problem is finding new pad with the same thickness and be challenging sometimes.
Some manufacturers are wonderfully helpful when you ask. I asked EVGA for the thickness of the pads for my 2070 and they gave me a super helpful labelled diagram 😭. Rest in peace EVGA.😔
Really? They gave me wrong measurements for the pads on my evga 2080 oc @@cameronleach5902
Use thermal putty, its leagues better than pads and lasts way longer.
@@kazuvikingI'm actually looking into this as I found the pad I put in my laptop is too thick (the chasis is slightly bent now) and I'm thinking about replacing it. Any suggestions on what brand/model?
Repasting my 3060 brought hot spot temps down by ~12C. Totally worth it. The entire top of the die wasn't in contact anymore as the paste had pumped out over time.
Don't buy crappy GPU? Two years ago I still had an ancient GTX 970 no issues whatsoever, all fans original. Mostly silent though. Since it could run below 60°C with an extra case fan near there even in many games. I gave it away, but there's some little human still gaming on it casually. That's a 9 y.o. card by now 😏
A friend of mine had GTX 960 for the same 7 years. Not so silent, but also no issues whatsoever. How is this even a topic? Did you extreme OC or something?
I repasted my EVGA 1070 earlier this year after using it daily since 2016. Temps only dropped by 4C, probably because the factory thermal paste was still wet after 7 years of heavy daily use.
EVGA please come back to the GPU space ):
@@steve42069master AiB factories tend to use more durable paste, which has slightly worse thermal conductivity right from the start, but lasts longer. So that original paste was still in great if not perfect working condition by their standards. It's just mixed differently.
@@bufordmustang302 yes do it I also have a 6650xt and my hotspot temps were 95-100c but my global temps were like 65c and after repaste some games like rdr2 still get hot but max temp ive seen with a fan curve is 85c and that was in rdr2 but in modernwarfare 2019 I used to be at 85c on hostpot and now its 70c and do you have an xfx model?
@@vensroofcat6415 my 6650xt dropped almost 20c on hotspot after a repaste and it was only 5 months old
21:22: "No"
A topic to debate for the ages. Need to see 2-3 year repasting tests across multiple brands to test longevity
I'd always heard Palit ware cheap option GPU's, but it was my only option to get the 3090 during the first round of launch cards (before any scalping prices took hold). So I expected to hate the Gamerocks look and have to give up warranty to repaste it, but it ran with the best instantly. So much so that undervolted it, it can still be overclocked and run silent 30% fans.
It's gone up a degree or two over 3 years so I may repaste next year but 3 years and Palits not really needing any repasting.
I still own Rog 1070ti for almost 5 years. Since the day i bought it it was at like 80-84 degrees under load. After 3 years of use i decided to repaste it with thermal grizzly and now since then its sitting at nice 70-72 degrees max. Friend of mine same story with MSI 1080ti. I agree would be nice to see how other brands fan out.
@@venecus6630 They always use the "bog standard" thermal paste. It's always a good idea to repaste after the warranty ends.
@@N1c0T1n3__or before the warranty ends, the advantage of the thermal paste they use is longevity. It doesn't perform the best but won't degrade as fast as the top performing paste. So just do it when you get the card.
@@twanheijkoop6753Many people use the overhyped grizzly stuff and find out their cards run hot again after a month.
old man here - I recommend risking opening up GPU to re-apply thermal paste only every 10 years for heavy daily computer users. I have 7 desktop computers w/independent GPUs at home running. I have been building computers since 1980. Old paste is fine for a decade maybe more. Manufacturers of paste are biased in their recommendations as are these computer parts shillers like Jay. GPU and CPU makers are always looking for reasons to blame for their breakdown, so this paste re-application recommendation is a staple scapegoat for when the CPU/GPU fails. It's not like oil at all, thermal pastes last a long time. When I opened up ~6year old paste - they are fine. When I looked at ~10 year-old pastes (arctic silver), they were brittle and dry AF. The newer Arctic MX-4 to MX-6 are even better and last longer than the old crap. Change it out about every 8-10 years and you'll be fine.
If you're already gonna open up the card (for an at home user) it's probably worth it to replace the pads as well. It adds to the complexity cause of pad thickness and all that but you can get some decent gains on mem and vrm temps. Plus you don't have to try and salvage the factory pads if they tear.
The problem is finding a reliable chart that tells you what thickness the pads are on your card. I would totally re-paste and pad my card if I could find reliable info on the thickness of the pads. I don't want to buy 4 different thicknesses just to get it right.
@@handyman1957 its an enormous pain in the ass, and honestly if you hhhave a higher tier aib card, better thermal pads could cost upwards of $50
@@Hetsu.. I had enough of wasting money finding the right pads for my card so I opted with thermal putties and my temps is way better than before, new putties nowadays has the consistency of playdough and doesn't make a mess unlike old putties that sticks on the pcb
@@Benri05 thermal putty are a way better solution than k5 pro ?
@@halfbossswxbox360 much better, the k5 pro only has like 5.3w/m.k of heat transfer while newer thermal putties nowadays like the cx-h1300 or upsiren u6 pro has 13w/m.k of heat transfer. The newer putties are easier to use too, they are like soft thermal pads unlike the oily formula of the k5 pro.
I forgot how easy it is to watch jays videos. So knowledgable but not mind bending to watch and understand. Hes very well spoken.
I would like to see a video where you mix different thermal pastes. Would be interesting to see if cleaning off the old stuff has any effect.
I can confirm that removing old crusty paste makes a difference. Now, if you recently applied paste you can take the cooler off and place it back on with adding a small amount if needed.
i think this would be neat, and just overall good knowledge to have
definitely we need a video for that
@@olandersnake for instance taking it off the confirm the spread and then just plop it back on
@racistpandagod it should be ok. It just depends on the spread and how much is left where it counts. If it compresses to almost clean, you may want some back on.
I did exactly the same thing recently with my 1080Ti and my friend's 1080. I cranked up first three lines in MSI afterburner, ran 3D mark stress test, then cleaned everyting using Isopropyl alcohol, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Cryonaut and changed the old dry thermal pads for new Arctic ones and ran the test again. I got 8-10°C difference instantly, worked like a charm. Definitely worth it.
Also I've got a tip for you @JayzTwoCents - add some guitar picks into the (awesome) IFixIt toolkit, it's great for opening plastic housings.
Keep up the good work, I really like to watch your videos.
ifixit tool kits already come with that
Exactly the same for for me, basically identical setup and benefit. 👍
I repasted and replaced the thermal pads my 1080ti FE and it made a huge difference. Something like a 20 degree temp drop and it didn’t sound like a hair dryer any longer. The factory paste job was terrible too. When I removed the heatsink it showed that only about half the die was covered.
Dude, dont scare me like that..
What kind of paste did you use?
@@splinterskulll Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.
@@joncope9175 thanks! I've been thinking about repasting my own 1080ti since it's been like 5 years but I'm still not sure which one to go with.
Might be time to repaste my 1080ti too
If you have a 7900 XTX, like I do, the pump out seems to happen much sooner. The multichip design seems to have an effect on it. I replaced my paste with TG Kryosheet, so I wouldn't have to worry about pump out again, as well performs better than stock, so double win there.
How long after purchase did you decide to re-paste? I've got a 7900 XTX on order, so just curious.
Same with my 7900 XTX, I tried changing the paste twice, they just pump out after a few months. I went with the Honeywell PTM 7950 instead.
@@willowz6 Just seeing this comment. It was about 5 months for me, and I honestly probably didn’t need to, as the hot spot temps were the same as it was new at 21C delta at 465W, but we’re starting to creep a little. I mainly did mine because I took the card apart to flash a 550W VBIOS to one of the bios chips, and figured since I had it apart I might as well swap paste with TG pad, so I wouldn’t have to take the card apart again. As the 550W would certainly cause pump out quicker I’d think. I like to hardcore overclock, and technically third in the world in TimeSpy with a 5800X3D and 7900XTX. If you’re playing with the card stock, and never plan to OC, then you’re probably have longer before pump out occurs.
I actually just did this yesterday on my MSI Gaming X Trio 6950XT with Corsair XTM70 Extreme paste and it brought my temps down from 92° to 86° with a lower fan curve to boot, which is a win! The old paste was hard and dried out
How many years have you used it? Also if the GPU is not used for long the paste will be hard anyway.
@Sulto_ Since not long after the 6950XT came out I've had it. But it's run very hot right out of the box and I've never been too pleased with the temps. I've still got the GPU fans at 3000 rpm. The cooler on this Gaming X Trio just isn't big enough, makes sense why the Sapphire and Powercolour cards are a slot larger
@@JessedoesDIY for amd, i always buy Sapphire.
They are like the best and i never had issues using their GPUs. No noise no coil whine no overheating.
Keep in mind that some GPUs use thermal putty instead of thermal pads, which is more likely to be non-usable at the end. It is best to research ahead what size and type of thermal interface you need before opening up your GPU, to avoid down time. If you have difficulty separating cooler from PCB, you can gently blow hot air with heat gun / hair dryer on the back of the card. This will soften the bond and make for easier separation. Use your judgement, surface should not be too hot to touch.
oh alright
Was looking for this comment. Rather than running your PC to heat it up just heat it up externally
Nailed, useful hints for me.
i would say yes, i still have my GTX 950 going strong after 7 years, i did repaste and it helped my card a lot, it's nice to take care of your PC parts and clean them, because you never know when you need it.
I like how Jay was talking about the 3070 being low power at 220W! How many people remember when you only had to use a heatsink/fan if you were overclocking (I'm including the CPU here too)?
that'll be just you and i. everyone else from that era has clearly died of old age....
Nah I'm still alive. And still have a working PC from 2009 running XP sp3
Damn... We're getting old
@@Caddy666 Still alive over here, a bit greyer in the head but still alive lol.
I thought that was a pretty good amount of wattage for a decently higher end card, hell i hhave an old 970 4GB and thats a 200w card flat out. And thats much older than 30 series....
I was given a GTX 1080 a few months ago. It was a nice upgrade from my 950 so that was cool. Trouble is, the fans would spin up to max under any load (game, or benchmark tools) and never go back down until I rebooted.
Replacing the thermal paste resolved that, and now the temps are lower, without the fans maxing out. I wanted to replace the pads on the PCBs but couldn't find any locally and didn't want to wait.
Overall, it now works great.
TBF your overall build if old cpu/chipset/ram/psu can also reach an aspect of voltage creep/degradation that IF/WHEN ppl upgrade to a beefier GPU...leads to aspects where temps cannot be resolved regardless of re-paste. Due to high system temps/operation. Good thing a re-paste at least was an improvement/qol improvment for you. Its LARGELY why i advise my friends to never get an entry/budget build with "hopes" of upgrading bc often lower end psu/12v rails, and boards/vrm/chipsets cannot sustain the higher REQUIREMENT/Vdroop a beefy gpu entails. Glad to hear your system is more ideal towards your desires/needs.
@@anhiirrThat's OK, if you have the budget for it. I tend to go a generation behind when I do a new build for budget reasons. I've only rarely been able to build a complete new system with the latest and greatest. My current system is about 8 years old and in need of being replaced. One day, when I have the funds, it'll happen, but not any time soon.
@@EricTheGrey there needs to be parts worth buying on the market too before that happens. that 1080 is still good for a few years.
@@anhiirr everything you said is wrong, I did what you said multiple times and never had any problems.
@@anhiirrso just buy a good psu with lots of headroom
those pads are designed to transfer heat vertically. as soon as they torn off, its ridicilous to try to refurbish them because you cant.
Yes!!! It's always worth monitoring temps over time as well and when you see changes to temps it can give you a clue if you need to repaste, clean the fans etc....
Cheers Jay, appreciate all your, and your teams, hard work!! Stay awesome.
It may only drop temps 1-2 degrees, but that can be worth it. It's even better to undervolt your card if it gets too hot
I noticed with the 4090 line, changing the tdp to 80% is actually more beneficial than undervolting, as the 90's are voltage limited after all@@TheBlueBunnyKen
Nonsense, a good thermal paste will easily last 10 years or longer, there is no need take everything apart for just that 1 or 2 degrees.
@@PeteDunesso long as aib's use decent paste to start with. I have no problem repasting a new card so that I know it's done well. My new 3080 12gb that I got last year was repasted after testing the gpu for thermals and got a 5 degree drop. All depends on what you want from your system. A lot of people are happy with out the box performance and there is nothing wrong with that, and then there are others, like myself, that want the best performance they can get, and there is nothing wrong with that either.
@@slysi84 My gpu out of box was too warm for my liking, not too worrisome (80°c), but I want it to last as long as possible. I repasted and undervolted it, now it runs at 74°c under load. At most it would reach 75°c, that's with mainly stock fan curve, before I had to use an aggressive fan curve to reach those temps. That was before repasting and undervolting, it doesn't seem like much, but every degree counts for performance
I had no idea about the warranty sticker thing, this and your other videos give me a lot of confidence in my right to repair. Thank you
remember only usa has right to repair and it is illegal to deny warranty with selfrepairs
so if you live outside usa, it may not be the same for you
They can still *try* to deny the RMA. Basically, they assume all customers are incompetent, and if the sticker is damaged/missing they *may* try to blame the failure on the user, not the defect. Protip: Heatgun/Hair Dryer + Razor Blade/X-Acto.
Jay, speaking about repasting, you *gotta* test paste longevity! You keep recommending KPx, but there are plenty of posts of short in use time before temps start to rise (as little as 1 month before temps rise). I'm using NT-H2, and only about 3 months later my CPU is already idling in the mid 50's C when it was in the mid to high 40's C when freshly pasted.
Damn I just got the nth2 for my upcoming build, do you recommend a different one ?
Damn, that sucks! Clearly that's a paste to avoid.
noctua pastes pump out fast on gpus, i tried a few premium pastes and settled on arctic silver 5. it doesn't pump out because it sets in place around the die, just my 10 cents.
I’ve used that for ages and never had an issue.
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut does this. Good for a few weeks at most then Temps start to climb. Meant for extreme OC really. Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut on the other hand is a fantastic paste. Both my Intel Core i7 13700K and EVGA RTX 3080 12GB have had TG Hydronaut on them for almost a year and both are cool and steady like a surgeon.
I built a pc in 2019, and i had it in storage for the past year and a half. When i finally got it out, the graphics card was totally inoperable. Redoing the thermal paste on the gpu fixed it!
One thing to consider: there would likely be some sort of change to thermals by switching even to new paste as manufacturers tend to favor a long term stability of paste over the absolute best thermals.
I’ve been really happy with PTM7950 phase change pads from Honeywell, after 1000 cycles of -55*C to +125*C it’s thermal conductivity increased from the off the line performance according to the data sheet and is designed for sustained, high thermal loads for a decade or more. Nvidia is using some variant of it (maybe just 7950) according to the thermal engineer in the GN video about the 4090.
The upside is no worry about pump out or dry out, should maintain at least thermal performance of new, if not improve even a decade from now. ModDiy sells it (they’re in Hong Kong but I trust them over aliexpress sellers) but may be sources here in the US now too.
+1 PTM7950. I have an Asrock 7900xtx, and it had hotspot temps of 100c+ under heavy loads right out of the box. Temp delta would exceed 40c and approach 50c in those scenarios. Repasted with some high end thermal grizzly- No change. Repasted with my noctua cpu paste-No change. Repasted with the highest end thermal grizzly- No change. Was about to RMA and tried authentic Honeywell PTM7950 as a last resort, and I was floored that it completely solved the problem. Hotspot temps do not exceed 80c under the same heavy loads, which means there is a hotspot temp reduction of about 25c, and temp delta is about 20c under the most intense conditions. Most of the time the temp delta is 10-15C.
ptm7950 is truly incredible stuff.
I agree, PTM7950 is a magic material. It worked wonders on my 7900XTX Red Devil.
should i do this on an aorus 3079
@@phr3ui559 Its on par with liquid metal when it comes to gpus and never have to repaste it.
Those arent honeywell those are chinese knockoffs. Unless it's specifically branded honeywell its a knockoff
I have MX-4 under my H100 on my x79 rig built in 2012. This PC has run 24/7 365 and only down if the power goes out and the temps are still 30c idle, max 55c under running cinebench. Still going strong to this day.
What's the specs on this build buddy? Just interested and curious as all :) and I'm assuming you have kickass air flow,
My H510 with wraith stealth prism cooler and undervolted 3600 gets around 73 max on cinebench, but that's to be expected with the bog standard stealth cooler that is meant for light workloads. But I'm happy that it's waaaay under 90degrees even at worse case scenario, Which is cool to see :D
The better question is paste, or graphine pads? Taking apart a GPU is one job I never wanna have to do again.
you will always need to open it again. That's just how computers are. Nothing is permanent.
if you use cryosheet pas from thermal grizzly they'll last for years as they don't dry out like thermal paste
When it comes to mixing pastes, it usually doesn’t matter. Most are silicone based. I actually like to use the old paste as a polish and really rub it down. Worst case, it’s just dirty. Best case I forced thermal material into the microscopic peaks and valleys for a better contact patch.
Test doesn't mean much since 3 years is bit too early for a repaste. You should find 5-6 years non-repasted card and test fresh paste on it. And obviously clean it beforehand so that you don't affect the result when you repaste and inadvertently kick dust out.
I'm using a winter 2019 Sapphire 5700XT that's never been taken apart. More than willing to let someone conduct experiments on it, if I can get a suitable replacement. For the record, I agree with you, I'd love to see what the results are with a moderate to heavy use 5-6 year old card.
I just repasted mine after 3 years and it was not too early at all, the paste was already dried and cracking and my card was probably going to die if I left it like that. Gigabyte 3070 Gaming OC.
My 1080 is about that old and used it for mining for a good 4 years never repasted and works fine, clean the dust out of it and the temps go back down to what they were when new.
My 1080 is about that old and used it for mining for a good 4 years never repasted and works fine, clean the dust out of it and the temps go back down to what they were when new.
@@jonathanchalmers7844yes because that’s a gigabyte card, and a 3000 series gigabyte card. Terrible pads and paste they used.
Companies like evga, higher end msi, and asus usually use good paste and pads, evga obviously being the best out of those. Same with colorful they do a pretty good job from what I have seen
All my GPUs new or used get thermal gel pads yes, they are quite pricey at £22 for a pack 0f 12 but they are the best cooling seclusion available for your GPU.
No, in my experience you should avoid opening a new GPU unless you need to perform maintenance after a couple years, or if you’re installing a water block. The thermal pads might not fit as good as factory condition and thermals may even be worse. I’ve experienced it, I don’t do that anymore and I used to on everything. Been doing this 20 years.
If, however, thermals are bad, that’s a different story. I got an MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk X EK that had the water block installed incorrectly from the factory. The other one was fine, I had 2. Older cards, or if you buy a used card last gen or older, sure, repaste for sure. I have twice in the past couple months and thermals improved.
Well said. These cards often use a specific thickness for thermal pads, and if you don't get the right thickness (and it's impossible to know what the thickness needs to be, you can't measure that by looking at used pads) you risk getting worse temperatures, or it's even possible that you wreck you card, and with those high prices lately, is that really a risk you want to take?
On top of that, I always uesed top brand cards and never saw any substantial increase in temperatures over time. You know what the most common problem is? Lazy people who don't do enough maintenance, who also might have their computer on the floor (dust magnet) or who smoke in the same room.
And lastly; anyone who likes to run his games with unlimited frame rates is putting way too much stress on a card, resulting in higher fan speed, and increased temperatures over longer periods of time.
Unless it's asus. Back 2 years ago I got a 3090 strix ran hot..on vram I repadded the card and went from 96c to 82c on vram
@@randomhobbies5796 a case where thermals are bad, definitely makes sense, is essential for the lifespan of the card imo
@@PeteDunes I usually either look online for the information on pad thickness, or buy a set for that card. If I can’t do that I get out my calipers and measure the pads thickness, assume they may have been compressed a bit if the size isn’t close to a standard pad thickness and get the next size up. You can get a set of calipers at harbor freight for $10-$20 good enough to do the job.
13:27 I would be so flipping terrified and would just give up and put it back together.
One recommendation of mine is getting a more viscous paste or a paste with less risk of pump out. I have had hotspot issues specifically with the Noctua NT-H1 on my ASUS TUF 3080 (never had any problems with it on my CPU.) After replacing the thermal pads for better VRM tempuratures, the NT-H1 consistently experienced pump out issues after a couple months. Switched over to the Arctic MX6 thermal paste and (fingers crossed) have not experienced any hotspot issues for over a year.
both noctua pastes h1 and h2 were only good for 3-6 months on my gtx 1080. on cpu it was fine, i went back to as5 it's proven to be stable for longer than anything else I've tried.
I tried many pastes and results ranged from bad to not good enough. Finally Arctic MX6 saved me.
I used to buy MX-2 because it was cheaper. MX-4 didn't seem worth it for the minor difference in performance.
Now I buy it because it is more viscous. That turned out to be the reason for the slightly worse performance, but the trade-off was longevity.
I've not had to repaste a single GPU after using the MX-2. I'll probably try one of these newer ones one day, but I still have some and I don't plan to throw it away.
Mx-6 on cards are pretty good, mine was almost a year since the repaste and there was no temp and hotspot changes. There's also an alternative paste called the GD-2, performs the same as an MX-6 but twice more viscous.
I've been using NT-H1 on my 1080 Ti since the end of February without any issues. Saw a nice 11-12C drop in temps and it's still going just as strong as back then rarely going over 60C on core and 74C on hotspot (though that has started to change getting closer to Australian Summer). I was initially concerned about pump out before repasting but after talking with someone who used it with good experience I thought screw it I'd try it and just re-paste again if necessary later on if need be, but like I said said so far my 8 month experience with it has all been good.
I'll tell you what. I installed a new CPU lately on my 2nd desktop, put the paste on and capped it with the cooler. As always, Intel stock coolers cause issues with the pin heads, so I had to remove it and reinstall it till I get a better grip in between. As I took the cooler off the chip, the paste was unstuck, half stayed on the chip, and half on the cooler. I was lazy to clean it so I left it as it was and reinstalled the cooler. Then I checked the CPU temp and it was higher than a regular one (my new case is also not the best in air flow hits). I kept on testing it, from full throttle, idle state, cold boot..etc, all the same, hot after a short while. So I took the cooler off again and cleaned all the paste off the chip and the cooler and i added a new round. Put the cooler back on, everything clipped well and....................................temperature dropped 5 degs Celsius. This goes for every chip.
I feel like the thermal sheets best use case would be for GPUs.
Let's be real, even if people know they ought to, nobody wants to crack open their GPU just to repaste it. So the sheets being able to just be put in there and basically never thought of again(if their marketing can be believed) seems like the ideal scenario. Might be an interesting scenario for a future curiosity video.
12:20, not only should you use a criss-cross pattern when screwing anything onto a die you should also do it when unscrewing if even if anything is super unlikely it is still a bare die...
Would be interesting and fun to see the effects of kryonaut extreme and kpx mixed together. To find the best mix ratio of the two. Purple is a cool color.
we think alike XD
As someone who owns a tub of both, I’m going to mix them in various ratios from 1:10-10:1 and report back. Running an 11700k
@@jamztiberius68 The timing of this reply is insane. I was in the middle of repasting a GPU with kpx. Maybe my first repaste with kryoX was subpar, but after a few stress tests this new kpx application seems to have better hotspot temps.
I was getting weird buzzing sounds and performance issues on my EVGA 2080ti when playing War Thunder for extended time or sometimes not extended time of playing.. I would need to reboot to remedy but it got worse and worse lately and would happen earlier on while playing. I re-pasted yesterday and all of a sudden no more issues...the answer is YES!! YES!! YES!! Thank goodness because I initially thought it was a bad Power Supply going bad..
If your temps are below 80, 90 for hotspot then its probably fine. If higher, good idea to repaste. Also PTM7950 is very interesting and lasts very long.
Based on the testing I saw in forums it lasts just over a year.
ok
I bought a 2080 ti rog strix that the previous user had repasted and changed thermal pads. He said it was "defect" causing games to crash and freeze, sometimes the entire pc. When it arrived I did some testing and find that hotspot went over 100 degrees really fast which made me stop the test. After opening it up I saw that the guy had used 2.5mm thermal pads across the board and the thermal paste was not even. So I ordered correct thermal pads (1mm and 1.5mm) along with mx-6. After cleaning and removing and installed the new thermal pads along with new thermal paste it barely went over 75 degrees (hotspot) on stress tests. So I agree Jayz! Do not change the thermal paste if its not needed especially if your not aware of important things like the thickness of the pads and how thermal paste should be applied and how it works. And usually there is no need for it at all. Loved the video.
Repasted my Gigabyte 2070 Super OC about a week ago
Massively improved my thermals! The stock paste was dry and barely there, improved idle temps by like 10-15C and under load by 15-20C on average!
if you are thinking of repasting to get better temps,there's a better alternative without opening the gpu : it's called undervolting.
I have tried around 8 different brands of thermal paste for CPUs and GPUs over the past 13 years and found MX-4 to still be the best at longevity and cooling.
Their newer MX-6 is even better and I'm shocked it wasn't included in this video. Really love that stuff. Arctic makes really great thermal paste and it's not too expensive either.
IMO i find the mx-4 to "last longer" but the mx-6 to sustain better operation/temps but require a re-paste more frequently. IMO its got to be the blend/compound/composition. The mx-4 seems more viscous also "takes" quicker....MX-6 as it beds in...gets a little more warmed up/spread as IMO it appears to be thicker to spread/bead out. Like its more "DENSE" and manages heat/newer voltage operation/high chip count cpus better...but general use/gaming loads the MX-4 lasts longer or dropps off its "performative" aspects in a more cost effective manner. If youre a system builder/used system builder/flipper. If its for your own personal build and you implement OC/PBO etc....and game a lot on AAA or API/ENGINES that utilize a lot more a CPU has to offer than something like CS/SIEGE/Valorant. Then yeah MX-6 is better esp if you already VALUE system health/maximized performance/operation...and re-paste yearly...youll get your $$$ worth from MX-6...but if youre against the idea...id consider mx-4 for a laptop or itx build...or something with a PITA cooler/mounting/access. OFF this basis. ESP if you dont game much and are a content creator/work station end user that also likes to game but doesnt want to spend time tinkering/tuning/opening up your system bc you genuinely lack the free time...XD. There are also other options that "last longer" but dont necessarily offer the most "performance" But again this is for end users wise enough to implore undervolts or a CPU that doesnt entail high overclocking/turbo like a k chip...or R9 cpu....which comes with its territory of thermals that are integral to overalls for system health/temps. IMO OC level CPU/250w+ GPU should lead to a system with a proper HIGH quality psu and tight voltage range of operation. With a larg enough chassis/volumetric airflow for ideal vrm/cpu/ram temps...even chipset. IMO build/use case often differentiates TEMPS/sytem health its not something paste will typically fix. As someone thats tried to run a 3950x on air in an ITX build....You realize you either learn to live with eco/mode/clock ranges....or have to invest in a better PSU/CHASSIS/COOLING which in an ITX build can easily equate to an added 300$+ to your budget/build. I wound up parting it out...for something with more ideal air flow...and a "laptop" if i needed mobility. Among other builds/setups. Its why i laugh too bc mx-6 says "gaming consoles" as one of the applications. Granted its probably a voltage CREEPING 3700x/apu with a 6600xt attached to it or w.e using shared soldered ram.
Consider undervolting as well. That 3070 is at 1980mhz at 1.05 volts. My founders 3070 is at 2000mhz at .95 volts. My average temps are usually around 60 and my Hotspot never goes above 70
Undervolting is the best thing i did for my 2080ti,hits max overclock with much less temps
I replaced the thermal paste on my RTX 2080 ti (just over 3½ years old) just a few days ago and temperature dropped by 15-20°C, I'd say it's totally worth it. Before I replaced the thermal paste, my hotspot could easily reach 108°C (226°F) and has not been above 86°C (186.8°F) after replacing the thermal paste.
Dude I need to do the same thing with my card rn. I believe I have the same card (rtx 2080ti fe) and am dealing with similar temps. Do you have a video or a reference that you used to take it apart and repaste? I'm realizing I need to repaste but I've heard of some blue paste or pad that breaks in the rtx 2080ti fe when taken apart and it isn't really replaceable. Anyway if you have any references you used for your situation I'd love to know how you did it. Thanks!
homie I am still using my AMD Radeon HD 7870 from 2012 and it is still moist and ready to go. Not sure what you people are doing with your video cards to dry them out. I literally leave games running day and overnight and no issues.
I always hate the thermal pasting portion of builds or in this case re-pasting a gpu. While I'm typically not a perfectionist when it comes to anything else, there's something about the thermal pasting process where I never feel content after I complete the step. Pretty much every time I do it I immediately want to pull it apart and re-paste it. Then I end up firing everything up and everything runs cool, but I still fell uneasy about it. I watch countless people online do it and they'll just use the pea in the middle method, they seat it and they never look back... they're so nonchalant about it even though they seated it horribly.
This channel helped cure some of the paranoia associated with over pasting. But the last cpu cooler I did ended up having the thickest thermal paste I've ever come across and the spreading process ended up being a pain in the dick, so then I'm spreading it with my fingers and then worried about air and once again everything seems to have gone well, but I still feel uneasy about it. I can't believe that there isn't a better system in place at this point or even a little run off reservoir instead of the run off going straight into the pins (which I realize typically doesn't affect anything, but I still don't want this goopy crap in my pins). There are thermal pads of course but from what I gather they don't run as cool.
hi jay, i do wanna see the difference between using thermal putty compared to thermal pads for the gpus though, since there's always a dilemma on what thickness thermal pad that needs to be used.
also, using ptm 7950 might be pretty good for the gpu die as it negates the need of having enough mounting pressure etc, which may make a decent chunk of difference (laptops typically do not have good mounting pressure and it works well, i wouldn't think that it'll work well as a cpu thermal paste though, but for gpus it might)
Good idea. Snarks Domain has some good videos on putties and charts, redoing GPUs with U6 Pro for example gets better thermals than even redoing the stock pads for Gelid Ultimate pads which have higher ratings on the pads than stock ones. Goes to show the thermal ratings numbers are not standard between companies. I am redoing my water blocked GPU and even my motherboards stock pads with U6, UX Pro and PTM 7950 now though staying liquid metal on the CPU with thermal grizzly new extreme version LM.
@@StuartBoyerkeep me updated, i'm curious about the results as well, I hate finding ideal thermal pad sizes and thermal putty pretty much solves the problem.
@@FateSoulzZreplaced my 3070's pads with the cx-h1300 putty, core temps dropped around 3c and hotspot is down from +16c to +11-12c since the cooler contacts the die better.
Finger oils all over the thermal pads seem like a poor idea.
I would trade the 1-2 degrees difference for longevity. I use MX-4 products that are guaranteed to work and did work for 8+ years. I used debeu8r products which give great and quite noticeable temp difference but needs to reapply around te 2 year mark (in my experience) which is a hassle of a job. This is for thermal paste btw not liquid metal.
Mx 4 is probably my favourite it lasts for ages and isn't stupidly expensive
I usually keep my GPU and CPU paste for 2-3 years and then i change it, ofc with usual PC cleaning every 6 months or so(filters every month). It also depends how much you use them, if you game or do a lot of work i would recommend to keep the paste for 2 years max, after that you will notice a spike in temps.
Certain newer cards (30 and 40-series FE, 6000 an 7000-series reference, as well as the Radeon VII) use phase change material, and those “pastes” are probably better than any aftermarket paste can be in my experience from laptops, but not all companies are using phase change material so this is a really great video to see.
Edit: I’m pretty sure Igorslab is screaming at that thermal paste application, but I don’t mind
my xfx 6650xt had hotpot temps at 95-100c from the factory and ive read that alot of 6000 series gpus have hotspot issues before a repaste
(edit after repaste my avg hotspot temps are down to about 70c)
It will be good if you do the same test but with the replacement of the thermal pads. Those thermal pads on an EVGA 3070 are old. So I think the radiator is hotter because chips are hotter because those thermal pads are old. Plus the chips also need good cooling.
PTM7950. Come on Jay, you should know this stuff is getting adopted now, especially for laptops and GPUs. Make a followup in a few months with the same paste job vs. a repaste with PTM7950.
Exactly what I was thinking. Feels like he's been slow on the uptake of actually new practices lately.
Honestly, I feel like the future is either a pad or liquid metal
Thermal paste has had its run
Normal paste can crap out in a couple of weeks, especially in hot gaming laptops like the Legion 5
Wow, what perfect timing! I just got all my stuff in to re-paste my 2080Ti this weekend.
I know you didn't make thid video for me. But you did. Thanks!
If anyone comes across this later, the repaste worked!
Paste was dried out AF. Temps went from 79 with fans turboing every 5 mins to steady 69 with fans at 90% max.
Hot spot went from 107 to 83. Crazy!!
@@FlexLex I have a 2080 and got huge issues with the temp and the mhz i dropping cuz of thermal throttling. Im just scared of the thermal pads is totally dry because the card is like 6 years old. But i really think that the gpu die could use a repase. What about your cards thermal pads did you replace them?
Repasting well used cards is always a good idea, especially if it's been well used for a while, but I would also put new pads on as well, your experience with the torn thermal pad is precisely the reason why.
good video, but please be more mindful about the camera angle because sometimes we only see the back of your hand like after 19:15. I want to see what your fingers are doing 😄
Was worth it for me: was running into a weird issue where one or two of the fans on my Strix 2070S would randomly click to 100% RPM in certain situations in game. MSI Afterburner temps were fine, but HWMonitor showed hotspot temps of over 100°C. I was very anxious about repasting, cause I was worried about damaging/breaking my GPU, but a fairly easy job later the hotspot temps were down a full 35 degrees!
I have the same card and am very tempted to try the same! If just for curiosity’s sake in if there’s any change.
@@bigsalmonfish4906 Honestly it's so easy it's worth it. It's only 4 screws to remove the entire heatsink. Even my thermal pads stayed completely intact (which is something I was also worried about, cause I didn't have replacements on hand^^)
+1 for this. Exact same thing happened to my 2080ti
Wasn't quite as bad with my 2080 but I still noticed temps going up after less than 2 years of use. Found the thermal paste had pumped out. Repasting brought temps back down again, but it seems Asus really used some awful thermal paste in the 2000s series. Which is a shame because other than that the cards are solid.
my rule is if my gpu once reached 88c under load, to me thats bad. because my usual gaming temp is at 60-70. so far, my msi 3080 z trio havent reached that temp since i bought it at launch. really good stock paste from MSI right there
Yesterday my friend applied new termal paste on eagle rtx 3060 and temperatures went from 75 celzius to 88 - 90.
He did it with no problem with older cards.
Maybe he messed something with termal pads.
Depending on the die size, it would be interesting to see what the KryoSheet from Thermal Grizzly would do for temps?
You've replaced a phase changing material with huge longevity with standard thermal paste. Don't repaste GPUs that use Honeywell's TIM (usually a variant of PTM7950). You will suffer from pump out effect much sooner with standard TIMs versus the Honeywell's TIMs
Use Honeywell 7950 instead of thermal paste if you are repasting, it's crazy.
Only if you don't know how to repaste. Like he said the difference at most is a couple of degrees.
Why? What is that?
@@ravenovatechnologies6554Industrial level phase change thermal pad. It turns into paste above 40C and has the same thermal conductivity as high end thermal paste.
Also because it is "industrial level", it last way longer than even the best thermal paste before starting to degrade
exactly wondering same,, no words about more maintenance free solutions like honeywell.. why keep pasting again..
@@sihamhamda47I've never tried it but now I may once the pads on my 3080 start to degrade. Thanks for the tip
If your pads get ripped I'd recommend just replacing them, if you can't find any information online about the size, try the manufacturer. ASUS sent me a detailed technical diagram with the thermal pad specs for my GTX 760, just took them a while.
I know everyone is afraid of liquid metal, but I've been using it on my GPUs with great results for 3 different GPUs.
I also like to just buy new, high quality, thermal pads to use when I repaste.
Good on you for showing that it didn't work correctly at first and needed another go over.
Definitely make the video about mixing the thermal pastes. I've often wondered about that myself.
Jay, you could test Honeywell PTM 7950 it's a pad for CPU and GPU.
Just have to cut for your needs. I tested results are great.
I'm using it since five months with both AIO and still temp's are totally fine.
I know that there's a problem to buy original product but I believe you gonna find it.
I'd say re-paste when there's a problem. Otherwise don't.
I repasted my (2 year old) Red Devil RX 6600 XT (with Arctic MX-6) and it was totally worth it …. even posted it on Reddit with pictures two days ago as I was so thrilled about it 🥳 Difference between GPU and hotspot temperature was up to 30 degress, highest temp was 111 degress (as shown by HWiNFO64). Now it is at max. more than 30 degress less and difference GPU and hotspot temp max 15 degress 🙏🏻
Agreed. I find using a heatgun works well for this, but ive recomended people use a hair dryer so less of a chance to overheat any components. (Also because most people have one around)
Hot enough to feel hot, not hot enough that it hurts to touch is a good range and will let the cooler come of usually just by its own weight.
do not use a hair dryer
hair dryers produce static which can fry components
I would consider repasting my cards, but I fear having to deal with replacing/fidleing with pads.
I understand this feeling because I don't like changing thermal pads/paste either but if you have to replace the thermal pads it's really not hard at all so don't let that scare you.
Same especially on the 3080 FE. Every video I watched, different thickness was used 😊
It's just about researching your GPU and being confident that you know what size pads to buy. If you're really worried by some extra and get a way to measure the old ones so you can figure it out yourself even after researching your exact GPU.
The actual act of replacing the pads is really easy btw, as for the pad size it's just some research.
I think the main thing you want to figure out is the right thermal paste that will actually last, a lot of the higher performing stuff doesn't have longevity.
@@haies09 yep and using the "Same" thickness is how those and the 3070-3070ti also had bad FE/vram temp "issues" as those played out and they had to "revise" them. And even "re-launched" the ampere FE cards which was something i never considered/anticipated
Today I repasted my GPU and CPU because both of them had dried to dust (and having already replaced all fans to alleviate my PC crashing due to overheating, repasting is my last hope). I was a bit dejected when I didn't see any change, but you reassured me when you said that I might not get lower temps immediately.
I think half the time it's not a matter of repasting, it's fixing the paste/pad job from the factory, which on mine barely counted as the original pasting
The card will work fine without repasting, however repasting will most probably lower temps, so for those watching closely for gpu and other temps repasting will prove beneficial for their mental health. Even new cards might need repasting in that aspect. ( I did repaste mine 😛)
"We believe in righ to repair around here".... Apple "ARREST THAT MAN"
XFX Merc 310 Speedster 7900XT, was thermal throttling from normal use, never reaching advertised boost clock, idle 60C, 100C consistently at load. I disassembled and repasted and it works as advertised, hitting advertised boost and never going over 75C. So yeah, sometimes they are assembled like crap at the factory.
Would also be interesting to see the results of two different new thermal pastes mixed then apaplyed, if that has any negative effects
I recently bought an EVGA 1080ti ftw3. Thermal paste was probably 7 years old so I figured I should do a repaste. I did some research and a lot of people were talking about pump out with thinner thermal pastes. I bought some cooler master cryofuze which is a diamond particle infused thick paste. It was really hard to apply, sort of like silly putty. A lot of bad reviews on it with people thinking there was something wrong with it. But that's how it supposed to be. The idea is that a thicker paste wont pump out with thermal cycles. It dropped my temps 6-7c so I'm happy.
My Gigabyte 3080 had terrible pads on the memory. The GPU was still cooling effectively, but the memory was like 100C all the time. New pads brought it down to a more manageable 80C.
Had the same on a Gigabyte 6750, put pads between thw backside of the mem and the backplate and temps dropped from 90s to 70s.
New paste can remove 3-10 Celsius, depending on condition of previous application and age of that paste.
It can be beneficial or game changing, as it will also allow you to run fan at lower speeds
I've gone to the thermal grizzly new pad. Will last forever. And is better than paste and nearly like within a few deg of the liquid metal. But.. Literally will last forever no repasting ever. Amazing transfer of heat.
Fake. Those pads arent even as good as paste, let alone anywhere even remotely close to liquid metal. You're literally lying.
I've been building computers since the rigs started being towers back in the late 90s. There wasn't as many fail safes as -their- there is today. I still stand by Artic Silver to this day. Take your time and do it right the first time.
It’d be interesting to see how the graphene pads would do on a gpu.
Seconded! Was thinking about if there's a specific reason not to use those pads on a GPU. But if there isn't, I'd be real interested to see the results of that swap!
@@pierogipete3527 mostly due to the mounting/pressure/consistency...its mostly inherent to AIB/mounting hardware etc....im sure there are "SOME" that graphine are viable with...IMO its just the lack of DATA to support this application/viability. EVEN then if its that hard/cost effective to implement/gpu to gpu....it definitely explains why "content creators" arent testing this....bc of how many genuinely wont be able to properly cool...vs those that do....and the range of time/process to create said "content" IMO doesnt really APPLY to a "large" enough demographic to waste their time doing this sort of work in the first place. Ive seen/heard about ppl/builds of ppl doing things like this....with gpus....while their "MAIN" was in the process of being lapped(their H20 block) for a more ideal paste/liquid metal type applicaton...and theyve fiddled with graphine/etc type interfaces while not using their water block with their "ENDGAME" gpus. Other than that not that many ppl using them for actual PRACTICAL reasons...bc IMO nobody wants to take apart their GPU/re-insstall their cooler 2x in the same week...if the mounting/pressure and pad doesnt TAKE. If that happens to you ONCE its ENOUGH to potentially not consider it again IJS...buf if reddit/etc threads substantiate a MODERN era GPU being mount/pressure viable for a pad...and it shows HUGH QOL improvements for idle/load temps....I think this could be a "TREND" other manufacturers implement down the road. Or it could be the other way around 5700xt strix with a bad factory mount...and an owner/end user/2nd hand owner...trying to remedy their temps...and the only way to get proper mounting could be from the "depth/mills" a pad has to offer over paste. So as far as that goes....if you appear to be out of options/dire situation a pad could be an avenue worth considering of most conventional methods/means dont suffice.
If you own an MSI, it’s absolutely necessary. I thought my 3080 had gone out and it was recommended that I re-paste the GPU. I did this, and now it works even better than before. This GPU was a year old at the time.
Thanks Jay. I recently assembled a refurbished Dell Optiplex 750 along with an old Radeon 4100 low profile card as to have a "recycled" gaming computer. I repasted both the i7 and Radeon chips with fresh thermal paste. As to your conclusion, paste is meant to get into the nooks and krannies, so suppose as long as contact was made initially (however many years ago), repasting may not be as much worth the hassle as we think it is. The Radeon from 2016's was from a dental office, and probably never used. The i7 on the other hand had crusty and 'dark' remnants left behind during the cleaning process. The cooler block was staind from the thermal paste oil.
Simple answer, are your GPU temps ok now? Then don't repaste. Nothing like turning a 3sec answer in to a 23min Advert opportunity
my EVGA 3080 FTW3 put in work since i owned it. and i did a rebuild recently and yea. a re-paste was MUCH needed! it was basically clay. the biggest issue is knowing thermal pad sizes and finding them. other than that. was super easy. and HUGE notice in temps! about 10 degree C on my repaste. mcuh less fans constantly reving too.
Too much talking around the title topic :/
Absolutely yes. I have a zotac watercooled 3090 and after a year of use I made a repaste and the hotspot temperature gone 15 degrees down and overall gone down 3-4 degrees.
While this is definitely an exception and not the norm, I had an EVGA GTX 1060 that needed to be re-pasted right out of the box. It was one of the single fan models but it was the SC which had a better heat pipe cooler vs the basic solid aluminum cooler of the base model. I still thought it just had an inadequate cooler despite that, because from day one, it ran very hot and super loud. I eventually tried to water cool it using one of those kits that adapts an Asetek cpu cooler to the card. The adapter was defective so while waiting to exchange it, I just slapped the stock cooler back on with some new paste. The card was now running several degrees cooler and significantly quieter. It was also boosting MUCH higher too. I just returned the adapter as well as the cooler, because the card was perfectly fine after that. It was either a bad mount or bad paste right out of the factory.
I repasted a 1070 FE card earlier this year with Noctuas paste, temps dropped, fan speed dropped, core clocks shot up. I don't remember the exact numbers but it was significant. The card was used fairly regularly for about 5 years and it has a ton of life left in it.
My research is from a while back like 2009-2015. Some TIM will last years before needing to be swapped in CPU applications. However the same TIM in GPU applications will last 1 year due to heat cycles, block pressure, and direct die cooling etc. Higher viscosity TIM (kind you would need to spread in CPU's) would last years specially when just getting mid range TIM. Now more in more recent times times I have found a lot of manufacturers using mid grade to high performance TIM, for example EVGA uses Shin Etsu so repasting is not as necessary as it used to be. I've repasted several brands now and saw very little difference, however I noticed that optimizing the block contact and replacing the thermal pads yielded better results. I was able to replicate on 5x 3080's that doing the block optimizing, and thermal pad replacement would increase boost clocks and introduce more stable performance. Block optimization consistent of figuring out the space between the block and the vrm's, phases, and vram then finding thermal bad of adequate size. Also using shims, to add additional pressure, but not too much this part is a little risky if you don't know what you are doing.
Cool! That's the card I'm rocking. I picked it up used about two years ago, and this definitely scratches that curiosity itch about repasting it. Probably not worth it now, but once I pass it down to my kids in a few years, I'll open this video and paste it then.
I picked up a used 5700XT recently. Screw seals still intact so had never come apart. I repasted it and put new thermal pads on it. Hot spot went down 7 degrees on average and gpu temp went down around 4 degrees. So, definitely helped an older card.
id also consider an UV those cards are known for having inherent cooling issues out of the box AIB were better off other than the strix/mounting fiasco. At the time a massive OC was nice to see how close the 5700xt could PUNCH to a 2080ti...in games like RDR2 or BFV and FC5....but TBH its so detrimental to system health/gpu health. AMD cards have always been known to NEED an UV to truly be ideal. Not that i could have any more to say about NV/FE cards which are riddled with WHINE. As if most modern AMD cards dont come with their fair share of whine.
if you replace the paste you have tyo have new heat pads i now just clean mine without taking the heatsink of if i had new heat pads yes i would take it apart
Shouldn't u also be replacing the thermal pads with totally new ones ?
I just repasted my RTX2080ti and wow is there ever a difference. I used to power throttle it to keep the fans from blowing at 100 percent randomly for about 5 seconds every time it hit 80 degrees. Now running at full power it is steady at 70C. If you arent scared to take it apart it really is worth it. Im so happy right now.
yes because your TIM might be old or bad. but no one should be using anything beyond PTM7950 (or any phase change pad for that matter), this way you will almost stop worrying about TIM getting bad (which means you'll maintain it less other than cleaning out dust) as well as pump out issues.
commenting before i watch the video to share my experience.
I just repasted my Chinese SKU Zotac 3070 a few days ago and the results are drastic. GPU temp went from an average of 82C to 73C while gaming, and hot spot temp went from average 104C down to 84c while gaming. Before, I was constantly crashing in a few select games, and now I haven't crashed at all.
Also, the Noctua SW edition thermal paste kits are very nice, having that spatula to evenly coat the chip was clutch. I hate worrying about whether it's been evenly distributed when i close it up.