Racked Carburetor Float Level Check and Adjust and Pressure Testing
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- How I go about checking/adjusting the float levels on racked carbs (multi-cylinder) and pressure testing the fuel delivery points, connectors and float valves themselves. This can also be applied to any number of carburetors, even one.
Great videos. As a 57 yr old mechanic taught by my father and fully licensed mechanic, college of trads RED ( Registered Education Diploma) seal certified for Canada. You covered this very well.
Pro tip every Mikuni carb I have worked on when the seam of the float is dead even with the carb body, Parrell to each other that is fine. Especially on these Bandits ( I own a 2001 since new).
One thing that stumped me was a bad TPS, never try to cynic carbs with it hooked up EVER !!! I was 100% convinced it was dirty carbs. I Cleaned/adjusted and so on. Only to have a random misfire high idle hot only to find it was all the TPS to begin with. Messing with the ignition map. Just setting the TPS is a nightmare alone, they must be torqued into position or the value changes on your Multi meter while your tightening the screws. Then and only once tight re check your 76% difference from closed to full open. Just handling them on the bench can change the setting even if you never moved it.
I like your blood pressure set up I just use low air pressure and watch to see them all open/ flutter at the same time/ rhythm/ bounce. I am going to have to try it now though I can't say I have ever seen that trick.
Stupid part is this was just suggested to me to view just after I had done all this myself and thought I could add some input, untill I noticed this is a old video now commenting.
Anyway keep up the great work teaching others how to fix shit.
PS 3.5 turns from lightly seated is a Factory setting for the mixture screw if your ever handed a set of carbs you know nothing about and may have been ducked with.
I'm doing maintenance on the carburetor of my Bandit 1200 and, even though I don't speak English very well, your video gave me the information I needed... Where and how to measure and how to adjust to measure the height of the floats. Bandit's technical manual does not specify this detail very well. Doubts always arise when I talk to some colleagues about the subject. Congratulations for the creativity in how to check if the needles are sealing. The idea of using a blood pressure monitor was sensational!
Glad it helped you out. Please consider subscribing/liking/sharing my videos to help grow the channel so I can provide more content like this.
@@MotoRestoFL It will be a pleasure to help your channel
Thanks for the video, helped a lot!
Love your carburetor educational videos!
Love your video
Gr8 vac test
Great video, im trying to tune my bandit which is surging and running poorly. Ill pull the carbs again and check the float levels. Where do you connect the pressure cuff to? One of the vacuum ports on the carb - number 4 where the vacuum lead to the tank goes?
No, to the fuel hose inlet. The objective is to pressure test the entire fuel supply side up to the float valves. With the carbs upside down. It’s just a reference test.
this is genius. Can i test the float sealing as well just by blowing into the fuel line?
Sure. but unless you're a deep sea diver it'll be hard to maintain a static pressure for any length of time. Which is why I use the cuff which acts as an accumulator and maintains consistent pressure at a given point. Thanks
Well guess I have to pull my carbs back off and do this. Changed the floats, needle, and seat but didn't check the float height
Is it not running ok?
No. My idle mixture screws need to be readjusted as well. I didn't set them back to exactly where they were. Believe I have multiple issues though. It has been sitting a while. I can get it to run with enrichment but as soon as I take the choke off it dies. With choke on it runs but is sometimes backfires or the rpm changes up and down randomly between 2k-5k rpm. That could be my tank is low so the fuel might be running out in the carbs and the filling back up. I believe when I switched to res that went away for the most part.
Also I have oil getting into cylinder 1 and 2 from either the rings, valves, or head gasket. Haven't started to troubleshoot that yet.
@@brandonfeeley514 yep you need to go through them again. The slow circuit is compromised by junk. Clean or better yet replace the slow jets. Blow out all the circuits with cleaner and air. Remove slow screws and blow that out too. Check service manual for initial settings. Go from there. Must do a synchronization if multi carb engine. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL yeah its the same carbs as this video has. Do you know the best way past the base setting to tune the idle mixture? Can it be done by vacuum?