You’re my absolute hero, took mine apart about a year ago and had completely forgot how the springs went back on. (And the rest of it to be honest) Thanks very much for the clear and concise video, much appreciated.
Yes mate, i'm resurrecting my long neglected Turbo Mini, it's been sat in the garage for an age. It's a 1380 T3 powered unit built by Iain at Avonbar back in the early 2000's (btw UA-cam keeps deleting my replies for some reason, so i've tried to reply in a separate comment)
@@TurboMinicom not right now, but I have been toying with the idea of boost with a fusion fab intake sometime in the future . Right now I have a 998 stage 1 with twin HS2 and LCB.
@@TurboMinicom No but I’ve done a nut and bolt restoration on a mini sprite single port injection to normal twin carb set up ,did all my own gas flowing on my head to see if I could do it came out good I like the detail you put in 👍
Great video, well explained and executed, thanks you. Quick question, you reused the bi-metal main jet holder, what are your thoughts on replacing the bi-metal jet holder with a stainless or mild steel jet holder? Cheers, Dave
I’m really glad you liked the video and found it useful. The bi-metallic holder can throw up mixture issues especially with the heat of a turbo sat below it, a decent heat shield helps but doesn’t always eliminate it. I’ve made a solid holder in the past to solve any issues. I had considered doing a video covering this very subject when time permits.
When rebuilding one from a NA carburetor other than the seals going the other way around and doing the T peice mod. Is that the only modification needed. Nothing else needed to be done when rebuilding?
There is an additional seal in the carb body under the dashpot on the turbo carbs. You could machine the required groove, which would allow you to use the additional seal, or seal the dashpot using some multi gasket or similar. Ensuring the face of the dashpot is machined perfectly flat would help here to.
Hi.i would like to fit an HF44 carb to my mini but the two vacuum pipes are on the other side.does that matter?Then when i fitted the carb,foel came gushing out one of these pipes.please help.
It sounds like the needle valve is the float chamber isn't seating properly causing it to overflow. Check there isn't dirt on the seat or the assembly isn't worn.
Phil, at 32.45 you mention a plastic washer that sits on top of the spindle seal. The HIF I am rebuilding from a Metro 1989, does not have these plastic washers, does it matter?
I've found carbs with and without them, but they're are useful as it stops the seals being pushed out under boost and rubbing against the springs. Probably not really an issue, but I've fitted thin metal washers in place before if the plastic ones weren't present.
when converting an non turbo hif44 for a turbo engine. What is the best way to seal the dashpot to the body, when the groove for the rubber gasket is missing?
Make sure the dashpot face is completely flat and use some Hylomar or similar to seal it. Though this becomes a bit of a pain if your having to remove the needle repeatedly to profile it. Alternatively machine the groove in the carb body if have access to a mill.
You’re my absolute hero, took mine apart about a year ago and had completely forgot how the springs went back on. (And the rest of it to be honest)
Thanks very much for the clear and concise video, much appreciated.
No problem at all. Good to see people are finding it helpful.
Are you doing a turbo build?
Awesome video thanks Phil. Any chance of one explaining all of the pipe connections?
@@andydadude9214 thanks for the positive feedback.
Yes that’s a good idea, I’ll get a couple of carbs out and sort a video out. Thanks.
Yes mate, i'm resurrecting my long neglected Turbo Mini, it's been sat in the garage for an age. It's a 1380 T3 powered unit built by Iain at Avonbar back in the early 2000's (btw UA-cam keeps deleting my replies for some reason, so i've tried to reply in a separate comment)
Great! Thanks for the reply and good luck with your project.
Thanks for doing this video Phil, it’s very detailed and clearly outlined. Great work!!
Thanks so much. I appreciate the positive comment. Are you building a turbo Mini?
@@TurboMinicom not right now, but I have been toying with the idea of boost with a fusion fab intake sometime in the future . Right now I have a 998 stage 1 with twin HS2 and LCB.
@@XX2Board Minis are fun whatever engine you have, but boost is addictive once you have it! 😎
Nice one . Will be in the future rebuilding a turbo engine ihave in my garage this will come in handy. Thanks for sharing.
No problem good luck with your project.
Keep up the good work really interesting 👍
Thank you, I’m glad you’re finding the videos interesting.
Are you building a turbo Mini?
@@TurboMinicom No but I’ve done a nut and bolt restoration on a mini sprite single port injection to normal twin carb set up ,did all my own gas flowing on my head to see if I could do it came out good I like the detail you put in 👍
@@leebryan8976 sounds good. Keep up the good work and thanks for watching.
Great video, well explained and executed, thanks you. Quick question, you reused the bi-metal main jet holder, what are your thoughts on replacing the bi-metal jet holder with a stainless or mild steel jet holder? Cheers, Dave
I’m really glad you liked the video and found it useful.
The bi-metallic holder can throw up mixture issues especially with the heat of a turbo sat below it, a decent heat shield helps but doesn’t always eliminate it. I’ve made a solid holder in the past to solve any issues. I had considered doing a video covering this very subject when time permits.
Must be cut backs, ordered the rebuild set last couple weeks . No screws for the float chamber cover
It’s not uncommon for bits to be missing. I’ve had quite a few over the years that have been incomplete unfortunately.
When rebuilding one from a NA carburetor other than the seals going the other way around and doing the T peice mod. Is that the only modification needed. Nothing else needed to be done when rebuilding?
There is an additional seal in the carb body under the dashpot on the turbo carbs. You could machine the required groove, which would allow you to use the additional seal, or seal the dashpot using some multi gasket or similar. Ensuring the face of the dashpot is machined perfectly flat would help here to.
Hi.i would like to fit an HF44 carb to my mini but the two vacuum pipes are on the other side.does that matter?Then when i fitted the carb,foel came gushing out one of these pipes.please help.
It sounds like the needle valve is the float chamber isn't seating properly causing it to overflow. Check there isn't dirt on the seat or the assembly isn't worn.
Phil, at 32.45 you mention a plastic washer that sits on top of the spindle seal. The HIF I am rebuilding from a Metro 1989, does not have these plastic washers, does it matter?
I've found carbs with and without them, but they're are useful as it stops the seals being pushed out under boost and rubbing against the springs. Probably not really an issue, but I've fitted thin metal washers in place before if the plastic ones weren't present.
when converting an non turbo hif44 for a turbo engine. What is the best way to seal the dashpot to the body, when the groove for the rubber gasket is missing?
Make sure the dashpot face is completely flat and use some Hylomar or similar to seal it. Though this becomes a bit of a pain if your having to remove the needle repeatedly to profile it.
Alternatively machine the groove in the carb body if have access to a mill.
@@TurboMinicom thx for the advice. i will try it like thins then.
Do you have a fuel bowl extension SU HIF 44
I don't use one. You'd also need a longer jet to take advantage of the extra fuel capacity.