Thanks to all who pointed out that carbon makes a good conductor because I was curious as to how the circuit was completed as well. Great way to avoid the $10.00 each fee it can cost for a lighted nock at a sportsman's store! Thanks for the video
I guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any tricks you can give me.
@Armando Cassius thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thank you, six years later lol. I had wondered about a diy after spending, losing, and breaking some expensive lighted knocks. I am increasingly interested in doing my own arrows from scratch. Even for target it is nice to have feedback and to date I have kept most of my lighted knocks for my hunting in the field arrows.
This video was excellent; not only for the instructional value, but for the entertainment value as well. Thank you @AverageJack Archery. You just saved me some money.
You are so clever and articulate. Well done. You're an excellent teacher. If I were your Dad I'd be very proud of you. (Odd comment but some how I just felt it needed to be said.) By the way Jack, you're far from average. More like awesome. God bless!
Scott I won't disagree that it is a little odd! :P But I do appreciate the compliment all the same. :) Good luck and God bless with your archery adventures.
Just made a few and yes they work! But....I swapped out the electrical crimp for a very small snug fitting fishing wire crimp. Makes it shorter and lighter
OK. I kept wondering how you were going to complete the circuit. Me being an auto mechanic I was overthinking it I guess. Slipped my mind that carbon was a good conductor and didn't really get it til the very end. Good video and why is it that when you are working on small things seems like you are always going to drop the tiniest piece? I spend more time on the floor looking for parts than I do working on the project. LOL
Nicely presented Jack .. There are a few alternative approaches to this method..Whatever your approach is to your liking stay with it . I was a little nervous that you would cut yourself..You might entertain trying a vise..As an experiment you might try a translucent nock with your favourite color led . A higher degree of luminosity is achieved. I definitely would try your method as a backup..A fingernail trimmer is good for cutting the hat and it is curved
Use a small jewelers file from a kit bought @ Harbor Freight instead of a knife cutting toward a fingernail... Just a wee bit safer and accomplishes same thing. Great vid!
The long leg is always positive on an LED. Similarly, the flat side of the "hat" is always positive. Just FYI, so you don't run the risk of burning out your LEDs.
Exactly! A simple electronics class and/or a little research and bam! But the folks selling led’s or any of these components should clarify that. I mean If I were selling these led’s online I would give as much information as I could to make sure my products sell better than anyone else’s.
You're a clever fellow. Enjoyed the video greatly. I'm a tinkerer and recently retired so I will do this project! I took a young 8 point a few days ago with a thru and thru shot in tall weeds and would like a reasonable chance in the future of getting my Rage broadhead and $8.00 arrow back lol.
Use a bamboo chop stick (next time at Chinese food restaurant) taper one end and use to SLIGHTLY spread open cut slit. Makes wire pass into position without risk of breaking off. 😉 Ps. Or use needle nose pliers and open up SLIGHTLY.
If using blue or red LED they might burn up if you hook them to a 3 volt battery since they can only handle up to a certain voltage. I would stick with the white LED or solder on a resistor to get it down to the correct voltage. White looks best through colored nocks anyway. Thanks!
There is a Much easier way to put this together. The long leg is called the Anode, it's the +. The shorter one is the Cathode, the -. Cut the Anode to 1/8" long, solder a length of .22 Gage wire to it. Run the wire thru the hole, slide the led up the nock. Clip and strip the wire 1/8" from the hole. Take a piece of heavier gage wire and make a ring to form the contact. Solder the end of the wire to the ring. You can solder the cathode to the battery with no issues (IF EXPERIENCED WITH SOLDERING). The rest you proceed as before.
Just an added note, some "carbon" arrows have a high fiberglass content and may not work with lighted nocks like this, or even Lumenocks for that matter. Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Yes! Some more budget shafts from some manufacturers have fiberglass. Even some high end ones too. Standard diameter Victory and Gold Tip arrows though are pure carbon and work very well for this application.
Thanks for sharing. Once you start using lighted nocks, especially for filming, it is hard to go back to regular nocks. Wonder if electricians tape would work instead of heat shrink?
Suggestion:> Buy a cheap digital caliper from harbor freight. Very useful for diameters "AND" converts from metric to standard (or vice versa) at a push of a button. Great video Thanks 😃👍
Dude! Smoking cool tutorial!! I forgot all about carbon because I don't use aluminum arrows and was thinking, "Damn, I have to buy aluminum now?!" Lol...And, btw, I'd stick with the pure white nocks because of possible heat build up in darker nocks with 3v batteries...Besides, if it's late, you won't be popping the nock until you're ready to draw and it'll be so much easier to find than blue or red...Especially if the damn deer runs off with the arrow stuck in them...Great, great idea...Now, if I could just find a work space for my tools! Subbed...
Have you had any problems with the battery flying off when it hits the targets? Or does your spring do a good job keeping the battery in place? I have some crossbow bolts that i want to do it too, but the diameter is larger than most arrows. Any recommendations for doing bolts?
+JMURM With the connecting piece and the shrink tubing I have yet to lose the battery. Before I thought to add the tubing I didn't have some come off, but rarely. I have also done this with crossbow bolts and it works great! The only issue sometimes is, with the superior poundage of the crossbow, that the connecting leg wrapped around the nock will shear off from the force of being pushed into the back of the shaft. Other than that, I just make the spring leg a little longer inside the shaft and it works like a charm! Best of luck.
Hey man this wont work without the spring will it? You need that spring to complete the ground circuit. . To ground the body of thebatt to the arrow that is. Good video tho
Safety Tip: I don’t recommend drilling a hole in or altering a Nock in any way. They are built to extremely high tolerances but are very fragile overall. And if one of these comes apart before the arrow gets away from the bow, you’re likely to have an exploded arrow in your close proximity.
You start the video by saying you want to slightly angle the hole you drill towards the shaft. Then after you drilled the hole you asked if we could see that you angled the hole so it slightly pointing towards the prongs. Which is it?
Being on an angle it points both ways obviously. But you want the hole to slope UP towards the prongs and DOWN into the shaft of the nock. Hope that clarifies things!
I like this but my problem is that I have 2 dozen of the manual lighted knocks that I want to turn into automatic Lighted nicks when fired they ready have the diodes inserted into them and come with batteries that slide into them like what you show in this blog and am wondering how I can do this to them I tried to remove the diodes with no success and would love to make these can you help me with anyideas
I have Chinese knock offs of lighted knocks but they are manual and I want to make them automatic ones they have the diodes already inserted into the knocks and the batteries slide up inside the nocksand one leg is slightly longer. How can I use your idea on these without ruining them?
good stuff! have you ever weighed one to get a grain weight to compare to the weight of store bought? if so what does your finished product weigh? thanks.
Thanks! To be completly honest I have never weighed them in comparison to things like Firenocks, Lumenoks, and Nockturnals. But I would imagine that mine weigh more as they have the phone butt connectors to connect the battery to the LED as well as some shrink tubing I add to further secure and clean up the connection. But we're talking small grains here. Probably less than 5 extra I'd wager.
An Average Jack thanks, i imagine that much (little) extra weight wouldn't effect flight too much inside 30-35 yds. would love to know actual weight though. if you ever get a chance to weigh one up that'd be great. thanks again.
Just weighed the ones I have for my Easton Axis shafts, and I'm looking at 30.1 grains. So actually I guess they're right around Lumenok weight at least! And yes, I have seen zero change in arrow impact at normal hunting distances of 0-40 yards.
I have and wouldn't recommend. Way too much force with the bolt and I've broken off a lot of batteries in my builds. I would stick with manufactured models.
Awesome- I’m definitely going to try this, BUT one question. It seems like you could cut the connector in half, or even quarters and significantly reduce the overall length of the unit making it more compact, cheaper, and sturdy. Yes- the connector will get crimped when you cut it, but it’s nothing a pair of pliers can’t handle. Have you tried this?
I haven't, no. And quite frankly since making this video I've found it simpler to buy the Chinese lighted nocks from eBay and Amazon. Cost me less than DIY and are much more reliable.
On modern day arrows (circa the late 1990's if not even earlier) nearly all arrows went to push-in nocks that stay strictly in out of compression in the shaft. This makes them easily removed if damaged and also allow them to be turned to align fletchings to shoot through different rest types.
Allen arrows are not pure carbon. They have a mixture of fiberglass resin in them. I had the same issue with a cheaper Easton arrow, the carbon storm. A pure carbon arrow will rectify the situation and allow full current.
Thank you I have found that some of the China lighted nocks work really good and are cheep and I’m shooting 347fps out of a rpm 360 and they are holding up great.
Hey Average Jack, love the videos! What components would you recommend for a VAP TKO setup? My inside diameter is right at .166" which is 4.216mm. The batteries you are recommending are at 4.2mm. With that being such a crazy tight tolerance, any fluctuation would cause a no go. Plus there would be NO shrink wrap and no coil, which should be fine. Also, will the 3mm LED's fit inside a nock for micro shafts? Thanks in advance.
Unfortunately the nock styles for .166 arrows negate any ability to do this method. It takes a special nock and different size battery to fit that size. My personal recommendation is to just bite the bullet and buy lighted nocks. I've fiddled around with everything from top shelf to China knockoffs and all have worked well.
just wondering with all little extras like heat shrink and connector and springs are you really making them any cheaper than the thill bobber style? I tried these couple years ago and couldn't for the life of me make them work tried the thill type and works perfect and easy to do just little glue and small drill bit done (not even the chance of cutting thumb making slot) not criticizing your work just wondering why ? to each his own
Without the shrink tubing it's comparable to Lumenok weights. Around 20-24 grains. It's not an exact science. The shrink tubing does add some extra obviously and it depends on how much you cut and how thick it is to begin with.
It's the exact same concept that I've followed before. The issue with them however is the KE created by a crossbow bolt can cause the batter to come out of the butt connection and slam down the shaft into the insert when it hits a hard enough object.
I like your setup but I was just waiting to see the Razor Knife cut your finger ( not wanting you to get hurt ) . And putting the Battery over open flame not good . like your video going to make some of these Thanks .
@@averagejackarchery BTW, maybe it would be a good idea to crimp the stuff together before you put it into the nock. That way the crimping part will fit into the nock making everything more compact. I'm definitely gonna try to make something for this purpose, cause lighted nocks are overpriced and honestly pretty shittily designed.
What brand cr435 are you using. I see some on AliExpress.com (brand JsFun) 10 quantity for $3.....maybe too good to be true but I am going to try them out and wanted to try the ones you are using too see if any variations
James Long They only grow in the mountains of Peru, and are hand selected by generational candle farmers at their peaks of aroma, wick length, and color. No wonder you haven't seen one! ;)
Btw millimeters is really the standard size not inches. Everybody else in the world uses mm exept usa. ;) And leds plus and minus should be allways the same (unless it is from very very crappy manufacturer) so no need to determite that. Plus long, minus short.
Thanks to all who pointed out that carbon makes a good conductor because I was curious as to how the circuit was completed as well. Great way to avoid the $10.00 each fee it can cost for a lighted nock at a sportsman's store! Thanks for the video
You're most welcome! The cost is exactly why I did it. God bless.
“Candles are natures heat guns”. Thanks for making me chuckle tonight.
14:30 hahaha
I guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to log back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any tricks you can give me.
@Lawson Jaziel instablaster =)
@Armando Cassius thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Armando Cassius It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
Thank you, six years later lol. I had wondered about a diy after spending, losing, and breaking some expensive lighted knocks. I am increasingly interested in doing my own arrows from scratch. Even for target it is nice to have feedback and to date I have kept most of my lighted knocks for my hunting in the field arrows.
This went right into my "skills" Playlist. thanks a bunch!!
Excellent DIY project for those who like to use Lighted knox Easy to make and looks very professionally done great tutorial
This video was excellent; not only for the instructional value, but for the entertainment value as well. Thank you @AverageJack Archery. You just saved me some money.
Glad I could help! God Bless.
Excellent tutorial! Great for we who take pride in building/using our own equipment.
"candles are nature's heat guns" i love it!
A bit "over" engineered… Just use the lighter, the one used to light the candle, directly...
Fast heating is better.
You are so clever and articulate. Well done. You're an excellent teacher. If I were your Dad I'd be very proud of you. (Odd comment but some how I just felt it needed to be said.) By the way Jack, you're far from average. More like awesome. God bless!
Scott I won't disagree that it is a little odd! :P But I do appreciate the compliment all the same. :) Good luck and God bless with your archery adventures.
Just made a few and yes they work!
But....I swapped out the electrical crimp for a very small snug fitting fishing wire crimp.
Makes it shorter and lighter
OK. I kept wondering how you were going to complete the circuit. Me being an auto mechanic I was overthinking it I guess. Slipped my mind that carbon was a good conductor and didn't really get it til the very end. Good video and why is it that when you are working on small things seems like you are always going to drop the tiniest piece? I spend more time on the floor looking for parts than I do working on the project. LOL
greg brown ahhhhh carbon is a conductor... soab I was wondering the same thing
I was also over thinking that
Thank you! i was confused aswell
I was asking myself if carbon was a conductor while watching... otherwise it's sorcery. And now I know - sorcery.
Thanks Jack! Very creative for sure. Will have to try this to cut down on the expenses!!!!! Please stay safe......
Nicely presented Jack .. There are a few alternative approaches to this method..Whatever your approach is to your liking stay with it . I was a little nervous that you would cut yourself..You might entertain trying a vise..As an experiment you might try a translucent nock with your favourite color led . A higher degree of luminosity is achieved. I definitely would try your method as a backup..A fingernail trimmer is good for cutting the hat and it is curved
LOVED this hack. I recommend every lightly super-gluing the slit cut in the shaft of the nock to maintain its integrity.
Glad you enjoyed it! God bless.
Very well designed A. Jack. That's what I do all day: DIY all manor of devices. Wilber and Orville had it right.
best lighted nock video ive seen awesome job
I bought 6pcs of those and works great, shipping was free and product is fine as nocturnal, and very bright leds in those. lasts 20h+
JJ you mean you bought 6pcs already made or bought 6pcs and put together your own?
@@roniler7960 www.ebay.com/itm/12PCS-LED-Lighted-Arrow-Nocks-For-Outdoor-Hunting-Compound-Recurve-Bow-New/264829570523?hash=item3da9128ddb:g:6pAAAOSwCtxfNkOE&var=564656279881
all made in china, works like real ones
already ready to shoot.
Oh ok thanks for the info
Use a small jewelers file from a kit bought @ Harbor Freight instead of a knife cutting toward a fingernail... Just a wee bit safer and accomplishes same thing. Great vid!
www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-precision-needle-file-set-4614.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Lower+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+%281%29+Price+%3C%2410|4614&mkwid=sDTF7DPHQ|pcrid|318476002950|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|4614|&pgrid=63088204786&ptaid=aud-454408222021:pla-297526946861&pcid=1654049980&intent=&gclid=CjwKCAjwldHsBRAoEiwAd0JybUWRe8XSQKVGSMox1_pZrujZxVK1GGX63S_eeqkDK478GZNSEzrAAxoCzDwQAvD_BwE
Nice work. Simple, effective and you can change out the battery with a little work instead of throwing the whole unit away.
The long leg is always positive on an LED. Similarly, the flat side of the "hat" is always positive. Just FYI, so you don't run the risk of burning out your LEDs.
Jason Patterson Good tip about the Hat! I was unaware of that! Thank you.
Exactly! A simple electronics class and/or a little research and bam! But the folks selling led’s or any of these components should clarify that. I mean If I were selling these led’s online I would give as much information as I could to make sure my products sell better than anyone else’s.
Drill size-1/16"
You're a clever fellow. Enjoyed the video greatly. I'm a tinkerer and recently retired so I will do this project! I took a young 8 point a few days ago with a thru and thru shot in tall weeds and would like a reasonable chance in the future of getting my Rage broadhead and $8.00 arrow back lol.
Great advice, once again. Just realized that I have everything to make it at home... Lighted nocks, here I come :)
To convert from metric to fraction divide by 25.4, your 1.5 mm is .059 thousandths, just under 1/16 of an inch, or .0625.
Simply outstanding!👏👏👏👍👍👍
Enjoyed watch , I have saved for future use , good work
Use a bamboo chop stick (next time at Chinese food restaurant) taper one end and use to SLIGHTLY spread open cut slit. Makes wire pass into position without risk of breaking off. 😉
Ps. Or use needle nose pliers and open up SLIGHTLY.
Great job. One suggestion would be to use a vise and a Dremel tool for safety and efficiency.
If using blue or red LED they might burn up if you hook them to a 3 volt battery since they can only handle up to a certain voltage. I would stick with the white LED or solder on a resistor to get it down to the correct voltage. White looks best through colored nocks anyway. Thanks!
Robert P No thank you for the tip!
I did not know that carbon graphite was a good conductor! I work with electrical components on a daily basis. I love learning new things!
Thanks so much for the info and the response. Really like your channel. Thanks again.
There is a Much easier way to put this together. The long leg is called the Anode, it's the +. The shorter one is the Cathode, the -. Cut the Anode to 1/8" long, solder a length of .22 Gage wire to it. Run the wire thru the hole, slide the led up the nock. Clip and strip the wire 1/8" from the hole. Take a piece of heavier gage wire and make a ring to form the contact. Solder the end of the wire to the ring. You can solder the cathode to the battery with no issues (IF EXPERIENCED WITH SOLDERING). The rest you proceed as before.
Just an added note, some "carbon" arrows have a high fiberglass content and may not work with lighted nocks like this, or even Lumenocks for that matter. Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Yes! Some more budget shafts from some manufacturers have fiberglass. Even some high end ones too. Standard diameter Victory and Gold Tip arrows though are pure carbon and work very well for this application.
ua-cam.com/video/OyD6qrlaqG0/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing. Once you start using lighted nocks, especially for filming, it is hard to go back to regular nocks. Wonder if electricians tape would work instead of heat shrink?
I don't see why not!
Go to Princess Auto or a similar store in the US. You can buy rolls of shrink and it is way lighter than tape and creates a moisture seal.
Suggestion:> Buy a cheap digital caliper from harbor freight. Very useful for diameters "AND" converts from metric to standard (or vice versa) at a push of a button. Great video Thanks 😃👍
Hi Jack ... I noticed that you had a comment from a Robert P 3 years ago .. It wasn’t me 😇
Great video, should be able to find my bolts now.
I see you tie flys as well, good how-to video.
I dabble! But I'm about 1,000 times better with the other type of stick and string. :)
@@averagejackarchery I have hardly picked up a spinner since I started fly fishing. Ok, Ok I know that is off topic. I love Archery as well.
Long leg is your positive(when they leave an obvious size difference)
Navi Kzc thank you! I was hoping someone would point that out. Otherwise I think he did a pretty good job.
Thanks Navi, had that written somewhere in on of my many notebooks but would have looked for the next two months since I had forgotten it anyway.
awesome bro ,you are pure genius !!!!!! thanks !!!
Dude! Smoking cool tutorial!! I forgot all about carbon because I don't use aluminum arrows and was thinking, "Damn, I have to buy aluminum now?!" Lol...And, btw, I'd stick with the pure white nocks because of possible heat build up in darker nocks with 3v batteries...Besides, if it's late, you won't be popping the nock until you're ready to draw and it'll be so much easier to find than blue or red...Especially if the damn deer runs off with the arrow stuck in them...Great, great idea...Now, if I could just find a work space for my tools! Subbed...
Have you had any problems with the battery flying off when it hits the targets? Or does your spring do a good job keeping the battery in place? I have some crossbow bolts that i want to do it too, but the diameter is larger than most arrows. Any recommendations for doing bolts?
+JMURM With the connecting piece and the shrink tubing I have yet to lose the battery. Before I thought to add the tubing I didn't have some come off, but rarely. I have also done this with crossbow bolts and it works great! The only issue sometimes is, with the superior poundage of the crossbow, that the connecting leg wrapped around the nock will shear off from the force of being pushed into the back of the shaft. Other than that, I just make the spring leg a little longer inside the shaft and it works like a charm! Best of luck.
I wonder how much does it weight vs a store bought one. When you want a high FOC arrow every grain counts. Cool project non the less.
Hey man this wont work without the spring will it? You need that spring to complete the ground circuit. . To ground the body of thebatt to the arrow that is. Good video tho
Cool, thanks, gotta make some
Safety Tip: I don’t recommend drilling a hole in or altering a Nock in any way. They are built to extremely high tolerances but are very fragile overall. And if one of these comes apart before the arrow gets away from the bow, you’re likely to have an exploded arrow in your close proximity.
Awesome video. Great job! Now make a crossbow half moon please!
Or Transparent OMNI nock.
Or a Excalibur flat nock build.
Absolute genius...
Thanks mate, subscribed
dude thanks that's some MgGiver shit there
Why do you not do video on CROSSBOW lighted your way nocks?
You start the video by saying you want to slightly angle the hole you drill towards the shaft. Then after you drilled the hole you asked if we could see that you angled the hole so it slightly pointing towards the prongs. Which is it?
Being on an angle it points both ways obviously. But you want the hole to slope UP towards the prongs and DOWN into the shaft of the nock. Hope that clarifies things!
Thanks for the video provided!I will be using that trick from now on. Thank you！！！
Wow too cool, great video!
The long leg is positive. All LEDs have a longer leg
I like this but my problem is that I have 2 dozen of the manual lighted knocks that I want to turn into automatic
Lighted nicks when fired they ready have the diodes inserted into them and come with batteries that slide into them like what you show in this blog and am wondering how I can do this to them I tried to remove the diodes with no success and would love to make these can you help me with anyideas
Wish lighted nocks were legal in Alaska.
Really really cool
I have Chinese knock offs of lighted knocks but they are manual and I want to make them automatic ones they have the diodes already inserted into the knocks and the batteries slide up inside the nocksand one leg is slightly longer. How can I use your idea on these without ruining them?
lengthy yet fun. thnx
I can’t get mind to work build just like yours
Sorry again guys: 17:23 “screw” is meant to be “spring”
good stuff! have you ever weighed one to get a grain weight to compare to the weight of store bought? if so what does your finished product weigh? thanks.
Thanks! To be completly honest I have never weighed them in comparison to things like Firenocks, Lumenoks, and Nockturnals. But I would imagine that mine weigh more as they have the phone butt connectors to connect the battery to the LED as well as some shrink tubing I add to further secure and clean up the connection. But we're talking small grains here. Probably less than 5 extra I'd wager.
An Average Jack thanks, i imagine that much (little) extra weight wouldn't effect flight too much inside 30-35 yds. would love to know actual weight though. if you ever get a chance to weigh one up that'd be great. thanks again.
Just weighed the ones I have for my Easton Axis shafts, and I'm looking at 30.1 grains. So actually I guess they're right around Lumenok weight at least! And yes, I have seen zero change in arrow impact at normal hunting distances of 0-40 yards.
Great Job! Thanks
Average Jack,Have you tried any for a crossbow? Especially with 1/2 moon style nock?
I have and wouldn't recommend. Way too much force with the bolt and I've broken off a lot of batteries in my builds. I would stick with manufactured models.
Awesome- I’m definitely going to try this, BUT one question.
It seems like you could cut the connector in half, or even quarters and significantly reduce the overall length of the unit making it more compact, cheaper, and sturdy. Yes- the connector will get crimped when you cut it, but it’s nothing a pair of pliers can’t handle. Have you tried this?
I haven't, no. And quite frankly since making this video I've found it simpler to buy the Chinese lighted nocks from eBay and Amazon. Cost me less than DIY and are much more reliable.
@@averagejackarchery Do you have any specific ones you'd recommend?
The nock won't get stuck on your bow string when you release the arrow. Doesn't the nock have to be glued into the shaft?
On modern day arrows (circa the late 1990's if not even earlier) nearly all arrows went to push-in nocks that stay strictly in out of compression in the shaft. This makes them easily removed if damaged and also allow them to be turned to align fletchings to shoot through different rest types.
Nice job. Have you weighed the whole setup?
Have you ever not had carbon conduct the ground. Found that some Allen arrows don’t work tried everything any thoughts
Allen arrows are not pure carbon. They have a mixture of fiberglass resin in them. I had the same issue with a cheaper Easton arrow, the carbon storm. A pure carbon arrow will rectify the situation and allow full current.
Thank you I have found that some of the China lighted nocks work really good and are cheep and I’m shooting 347fps out of a rpm 360 and they are holding up great.
you should include a link for each part used in the video
Dustin Lipka Google what's in the description and you'll be right as rain!
My led legs are to short to attach a butt connector to it, any suggestions?
Hey Average Jack, love the videos! What components would you recommend for a VAP TKO setup? My inside diameter is right at .166" which is 4.216mm. The batteries you are recommending are at 4.2mm. With that being such a crazy tight tolerance, any fluctuation would cause a no go. Plus there would be NO shrink wrap and no coil, which should be fine. Also, will the 3mm LED's fit inside a nock for micro shafts? Thanks in advance.
Unfortunately the nock styles for .166 arrows negate any ability to do this method. It takes a special nock and different size battery to fit that size. My personal recommendation is to just bite the bullet and buy lighted nocks. I've fiddled around with everything from top shelf to China knockoffs and all have worked well.
make a transparent arrow and put led's all the way down it and make it flash back and forth lmao super groove arrows :P
just wondering with all little extras like heat shrink and connector and springs are you really making them any cheaper than the thill bobber style? I tried these couple years ago and couldn't for the life of me make them work tried the thill type and works perfect and easy to do just little glue and small drill bit done (not even the chance of cutting thumb making slot) not criticizing your work just wondering why ? to each his own
Hello could u post links for the battery and led and any other recommendations here
were can i order the battery and Wat is the description good project good job man
eBay is where I got it all.
Thanks!
Can you try to do one for crossbow bolts
It's the same build. Bigger spring.
What kind of LED and serial number are they
having trouble finding the batteries without the lights, and Brian's doesn't work on eBay for some reason.
Will the batteries with the light on them work?
Try here! www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=cr435+lithium+battery&safe=strict&tbm=shop
thank you very much
Most welcome!
Do you recommended buying pink LEDs for pink nocks? or would clear LEDs be better?
Nicole Domaschuk Clear/white leds are the brightest for lumen count. The plastic of the nock woll change the color accordingly. Great question!
How many grains is this set up?
How long does it stay lit?
Wondering if the diameter of these is small enough for the micro diameter shafts (.165)?
These are too big. The .166 sized shaft requires a whole different battery system due to their micro diameter.
Average Jack Archery I figured. Lol. There’s always something 😭😂
why doesn't it work with my Carbon Express Heritage shafts?
If i missed the answer to this question in the comments i apologize but what does the total grain weight come out to as a complete lighted nock
Without the shrink tubing it's comparable to Lumenok weights. Around 20-24 grains. It's not an exact science. The shrink tubing does add some extra obviously and it depends on how much you cut and how thick it is to begin with.
Very good.
Dare to make crossbow nocks?
It's the exact same concept that I've followed before. The issue with them however is the KE created by a crossbow bolt can cause the batter to come out of the butt connection and slam down the shaft into the insert when it hits a hard enough object.
I like your setup but I was just waiting to see the Razor Knife cut your finger ( not wanting you to get hurt ) . And putting the Battery over open flame not good . like your video going to make some of these Thanks .
Can this be done for crossbow bolts?
An American using Metric makes me so damn proud.
LOL!
@@averagejackarchery BTW, maybe it would be a good idea to crimp the stuff together before you put it into the nock. That way the crimping part will fit into the nock making everything more compact. I'm definitely gonna try to make something for this purpose, cause lighted nocks are overpriced and honestly pretty shittily designed.
Seems like it would be less hassle just to buy a package of three. I'm curious, how much did you spend in parts?
What brand cr435 are you using. I see some on AliExpress.com (brand JsFun) 10 quantity for $3.....maybe too good to be true but I am going to try them out and wanted to try the ones you are using too see if any variations
How did those work?
How we going to make them work on my airbow?
great video.....
where did you get your batteries? good job
+MrJmartin85 eBay. That's where I purchased all of the electronic parts. You could possibly find them at a hobby store too. Good luck!
thanks. I was able to get 10 for $13... Just have to wait a month for my led's to get here from china.
So, how much $ did you save?
As opposed to a utility knife opening the nock, use a dremel tool it is safer and faster.
Nature's heat guns? Where do candles grow? Never seen them in the wild. Haha
James Long They only grow in the mountains of Peru, and are hand selected by generational candle farmers at their peaks of aroma, wick length, and color. No wonder you haven't seen one! ;)
Where can I buy the batteries?
Btw millimeters is really the standard size not inches. Everybody else in the world uses mm exept usa. ;) And leds plus and minus should be allways the same (unless it is from very very crappy manufacturer) so no need to determite that. Plus long, minus short.
What is the battery’s name