Super cool video - I enjoy your series. I don't have much use for knowing how shaft repairs are done but I always enjoy learning how things are fixed/made. Between you and MrPete222 I have hours of internet to watch when I should be out fixing my own stuff lol.
Great job on this and all of your videos. I used to work at my Uncle's automotive machine shop in Long Island when I was in college. Before the advent of removable bearings he used to babbit and line bore engine crankshaft and camshaft bearings in Model A and later engines - those were the days! :)
The two sections of the housing mount on a frame that allows for parallelism adjustments and belt tensions. The taper locks allow you to align the pulleys to each other.
The alloy and the set procedures allow you to weld and hot work it without stress relieving it! On the other hand the aquamet 17 has to be stress relieved after the process, but can still be done. Thanks for the comment and the question, reminding all of us that you just can't weld on any old piece of material and think it’s OK! ;{)---
That episode of As the shaft turns was terrific! Great job! I've never welded anything in my life but have some friends that are pretty good at it, but you're skills are beyond good. thanks for all theses great videos. I just discovered them the other day and I haven't been able to stop watching. Keep 'em comin'......
Amazing work.. perhaps just another day in the office for you, but the quality of your work is astounding! And the same goes for your video production work! Always look forward to one of these vids!
This and most pre heats are to raise the temperature, in the project so the arc and base materials are a little closer to the same temperature, lessening the shock of difference and relieves the pull or contraction between the puddle and base materials, following the weld beads applied. To help with flowing of metals, using lower amperage settings on your machines, while welding on larger projects, as you said is second reason, in this particular project. ;{)------
Thanks for the comment! I believe that a machinist can learn to weld and a welder can learn to machine along with any trade for that matter, as long as the abilities to remain teachable and the workmanship expectations, on a individual bases, will govern the quality or level in that particular added trade or talent. ;{)---
I would seem like it would! You still have to pour each half and then finish the split line shim and then set up to bore! In day there weren’t a lot of machine shops available to handle the machining needs and Babbitt was able to mold itself to the castings and be hand shaped for the running fit. There are still a few guys out there today that can pour and fit a bearing before a machinist could machine the same. ;{)---
Fantastic video, reminds me of babbitting thimbles on the end of 3/4' wire rope for a cable tool (percussion drilling) rig. Used muriatic acid for cleaning and stick for checking temp.
@david929190 Marine shafting diameters are gaged by saftey factors and to short cut the factor is not worth a short cut of not much more labor after allready welding up the packing area, which was a must...
@SirManlyPowers The exact alloy, I wasn't concerned about because, Dodge uses a good quality tin Babbitt and I only use tin babbitt, I treat all jobs as high pressure, heavy loads...
@Tarlang There really wasn't any air trapping going on, a little shinkage against the sleave and I should of pushed the sleave down in tighter, before putting the top on, I lost a little thickness of material to play with...
@TheClassicEngineer The whole job took around 18 to 20 hours. To much work to convert to flood coolent, make guards and still have easy acess to all the attachments...
That's a huge diameter shaft, to me. How much torque is it handling? How big is the propeller? Or is the diameter more due to the length? I haven't (obviously) been around boats much.
Keith, excellent job there Sir ! You are the master ! Curious to know, what degree was your temp stick ? Guess you have to go over a "Little", so when the actual pour comes, it will be closer to the right temp ?
What effect does all this welding have on the factor of safety of the shaft? Don't all those welds leave a lot of residual stress in the shaft without heat treating?
Wow that's some pretty high grade steel... I guess maybe it would have helped some but on the other hand a heat treat would be expensive and that shaft was running without all that material to begin with.
Was the shaft diameter so critical that you couldn't just machine it smooth and pure a smaller Babbitt to match, or did it have to do with assembly of the shaft
It is an old marine shaft support bearing and the bearing has to be installed in two half's to replace or maintenance, it is a heavy load low speed so the old Babbitt bearing is better suited, and we wouldn't have to build a new ship around it to get a bronze bearing to work. ;{)-----
I had a twin screw that had the same trouble as that one i ended up re-cutting and boring the bearing carriers out to the new size , no other options were available to me at the time .. what was the $
Brilliant! How many hours have you in the job including the shaft? Trivial question: I've not seen you use suds (flood applied soluble cutting oil) in the lathe, how come? That auto boring head is a fabulous piece of kit, been looking for one at the right money for ages! Hoping eBay will come up trumps eventually:) Respect!
I had been getting it from Mc Master Carr, but they went crazy on price! Just google babbitt supliers and search your area. sorry no super store info! ;{)----
Keith Fenner A bunch of us should start a 'Buy Keith a Sandblaster' campaign. If i paid a dollar for each of your videos I've watched, it would be well on its way. Thanks for all the videos - I've tried doing some of my own, and I know how much it can add to the work of doing a simple project. Jobber shops like yours are a lost art.
Simply outstanding effort! Both your skill levels and your efforts to share this with us are exemplary. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. Check out my site for my videos on the Globe Milling Attachment that might be of interest to you
Super cool video - I enjoy your series. I don't have much use for knowing how shaft repairs are done but I always enjoy learning how things are fixed/made. Between you and MrPete222 I have hours of internet to watch when I should be out fixing my own stuff lol.
Great job on this and all of your videos. I used to work at my Uncle's automotive machine shop in Long Island when I was in college. Before the advent of removable bearings he used to babbit and line bore engine crankshaft and camshaft bearings in Model A and later engines - those were the days! :)
The two sections of the housing mount on a frame that allows for parallelism adjustments and belt tensions. The taper locks allow you to align the pulleys to each other.
This guy fixes this bearing like a master chef : getting things at the right temperature to create
a masterpiece....
Thanks again Keith! I have watched this video more than 5 times in the last couple of years.
Very impressive Keith, excellent work made to look easy. Thank you for taking the time to make and post the video.
The alloy and the set procedures allow you to weld and hot work it without stress relieving it! On the other hand the aquamet 17 has to be stress relieved after the process, but can still be done. Thanks for the comment and the question, reminding all of us that you just can't weld on any old piece of material and think it’s OK! ;{)---
That episode of As the shaft turns was terrific! Great job! I've never welded anything in my life but have some friends that are pretty good at it, but you're skills are beyond good. thanks for all theses great videos. I just discovered them the other day and I haven't been able to stop watching. Keep 'em comin'......
Amazing work.. perhaps just another day in the office for you, but the quality of your work is astounding! And the same goes for your video production work! Always look forward to one of these vids!
This and most pre heats are to raise the temperature, in the project so the arc and base materials are a little closer to the same temperature, lessening the shock of difference and relieves the pull or contraction between the puddle and base materials, following the weld beads applied. To help with flowing of metals, using lower amperage settings on your machines, while welding on larger projects, as you said is second reason, in this particular project. ;{)------
A master at work and a great video...thanks for posting it.
Great stuff, love that you take the time to show your work to the world.
Thanks for the comment! I believe that a machinist can learn to weld and a welder can learn to machine along with any trade for that matter, as long as the abilities to remain teachable and the workmanship expectations, on a individual bases, will govern the quality or level in that particular added trade or talent. ;{)---
Great project Keith. You're getting your money's worth on the plasma cam and that "new" table.
you have great fabrication skills.Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I would seem like it would! You still have to pour each half and then finish the split line shim and then set up to bore! In day there weren’t a lot of machine shops available to handle the machining needs and Babbitt was able to mold itself to the castings and be hand shaped for the running fit. There are still a few guys out there today that can pour and fit a bearing before a machinist could machine the same. ;{)---
Thank you for the very informative videos.
George.
Like sand through my blaster nozzle so are the projects of Keith's shop expertly done, gitter done!
You deserve a great deal of respect for the effort you put into your work, thanks for sharing :-)
So nice to see a real pro at work. It may seem like work to you, but to amateures like me its almost magic! Learing to weld is on my to do list... :-)
Fantastic video, reminds me of babbitting thimbles on the end of 3/4' wire rope for a cable tool (percussion drilling) rig. Used muriatic acid for cleaning and stick for checking temp.
@david929190 Marine shafting diameters are gaged by saftey factors and to short cut the factor is not worth a short cut of not much more labor after allready welding up the packing area, which was a must...
@RGVCripted That was a heat pencle to check the temp of the casting, before pouring the Tin Babbitt material
@SirManlyPowers The exact alloy, I wasn't concerned about because, Dodge uses a good quality tin Babbitt and I only use tin babbitt, I treat all jobs as high pressure, heavy loads...
@Tarlang There really wasn't any air trapping going on, a little shinkage against the sleave and I should of pushed the sleave down in tighter, before putting the top on, I lost a little thickness of material to play with...
Another great video. Thanks for taking the time to record and post it!
@TheClassicEngineer The whole job took around 18 to 20 hours.
To much work to convert to flood coolent, make guards and still have easy acess to all the attachments...
Maybe they will remember to break out the grease gun regularly once they see the bill. It's a beautiful repair; master craftsmanship.
You are a Master Craftsman sir!
Sorry, I'm Bad, the split line gages the height and the side to side is done by eye ball!
@baker101z Cool, what seems to be a big heap to learn now, will all be automatic later!
Now that was fine work !!
That's a huge diameter shaft, to me. How much torque is it handling? How big is the propeller? Or is the diameter more due to the length? I haven't (obviously) been around boats much.
Love your vids your a very talented person...
For how little I acumulate, I've just been disgarding it...
All great videos Thnk you for sharing
Your bud
Manny
Keith, excellent job there Sir ! You are the master ! Curious to know, what degree was your temp stick ? Guess you have to go over a "Little", so when the actual pour comes, it will be closer to the right temp ?
Awesome job!
@moto9ll They're Tin Babbitt disc, I had in stock
Keith,
Awesome job as always. I was wondering why you stick filled as opposed to TIG? Thanks for your time and effort!
What effect does all this welding have on the factor of safety of the shaft? Don't all those welds leave a lot of residual stress in the shaft without heat treating?
Do you recover or deoxidize the dross from the babbit using some sort of flux or just discard it?
Very interesting videos, thanks for posting.
very cool. learned some things from this one , thanks
Wow that's some pretty high grade steel... I guess maybe it would have helped some but on the other hand a heat treat would be expensive and that shaft was running without all that material to begin with.
I noticed you mixed old Babbit metal with new. Did you match the old/new alloy composition or do you not care that much?
I use it to check the fit, like bluing...
Was the shaft diameter so critical that you couldn't just machine it smooth and pure a smaller Babbitt to match, or did it have to do with assembly of the shaft
Is the pre-heating meant to keep the material liquid long enough to make sure it flows to fit the whole area?
I'm curious why you don't make an Aluminum-Nickel-Bronze, as opposed to pouring a bearing? Could you please explain your thought process?
It is an old marine shaft support bearing and the bearing has to be installed in two half's to replace or maintenance, it is a heavy load low speed so the old Babbitt bearing is better suited, and we wouldn't have to build a new ship around it to get a bronze bearing to work. ;{)-----
I had a twin screw that had the same trouble as that one i ended up re-cutting and boring the bearing carriers out to the new size , no other options were available to me at the time .. what was the $
@ding0925 I haven't totaled it yet but estamate around 1600...
Just a tiny chunk of beeswax will flux that mix and make it easier to skim.
I get the candle stubs from somebody that goes to church.
An impressive process from start to finish. Pretty close to how they did babbit in the old days?
The shaft was over 14 foot long and weight was over a couple hunderd pounds. I also like to change up, to show other ways to do the same job.
;{)---
Very impressive.
Can you pour a babbitt over an acme thread so make a low backlash bearing for like a mill vice etc?
The series shows all I had for videos on that unit ;{)---
could it be faster to completely fill the mold with babbit then drill then bore to size ? And of course recycle the babbit chips ?
Brilliant! How many hours have you in the job including the shaft?
Trivial question: I've not seen you use suds (flood applied soluble cutting oil) in the lathe, how come?
That auto boring head is a fabulous piece of kit, been looking for one at the right money for ages! Hoping eBay will come up trumps eventually:)
Respect!
were those aluminum ingots you melted down?
you really do nice work.
Big HP low speed boat, with long shaft and a 34" or so four blade wheel. ;{)---
holy freekin nuts, i wish i knew how to do this crap, bloody brilliant
what did they use before torches ???
It would stretch out very fast, if it was real thin! ;{)-----
Great job
Babbitt is a bearing material that can be poured into it shape. ;{)----
I had been getting it from Mc Master Carr, but they went crazy on price! Just google babbitt supliers and search your area. sorry no super store info! ;{)----
it would take me a thousand lifetimes to do what you do on a daily basis.
@gregoryscottsr tin with some copper and antimony...
you are the man !!!!!
Aluminum?
I must say, pretty bad ass!
Are you ever going to get a sandblaster?
one of these days not on the top of my list. ;{)-----
Keith Fenner A bunch of us should start a 'Buy Keith a Sandblaster' campaign. If i paid a dollar for each of your videos I've watched, it would be well on its way. Thanks for all the videos - I've tried doing some of my own, and I know how much it can add to the work of doing a simple project. Jobber shops like yours are a lost art.
My favorite part was when he performed repair operations.
Great job. I've done some bullet casting and was wondering if you ever have to flux the babbitt to reduce the skin on top.
I just draw off the trash / skim with a wooden stick before poring. ;{)-----
now i have an idea on how my old boye & emmes engine lathe babbit bearings were done.
Check out Rotometals, they appear to have much better pricing on babbitt material.
If I ever run a boat/ship aground, let it be near your workshop
@gregoryscottsr Babbitt
@ Warren Rhyner "Lathe Porn" !!! That's it precisely 8^)
Simply outstanding effort! Both your skill levels and your efforts to share this with us are exemplary. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. Check out my site for my videos on the Globe Milling Attachment that might be of interest to you