What works...works. Such a pleasure to listen to someone who knows that EVERYTHING MATTERS Ron. Parts that touch, trigger pressure points, where you support the rifle, barrel temp, differences in ammo, etc, etc. It ALL matters. Always a pleasure to watch & listen to you brother👍 Thank you.
Ron, please send that rifle back to Park West. They have a 1/2 MOA guarantee. Quit fighting it. Park West should be ashamed of themselves on this rifle.
having checked scope mounting, shot different groups with similar results, I would have to agree to send it back to park west. to have the rifle evaluated. no embarrassment just the right thing to do with 1/2 MOA guarantee.
Guys, I think you're jumping the gun, so to speak. I've barely begun working with this gem! Parkwest Arms guarantees MOA accuracy (3-shots) for their SD-10 rifles, and I've already gotten two groups that tight. I'm now searching for the best bullet, velocity, seating depth, etc. I enjoy this kind of "bonding" with my rifles. All part of the discovery. More to come.
Many years ago, I had an issue. Everything was good before going out. Then it all went downhill. My uncle shot it to rule me out. Then different ammo. We strapped the rifle down and it drove tacks. Took hold of the scope, and it moved. We removed the scope and reset it in the rings, sighted it in and all was good. Somehow the scope ring loosened up and the scope move, with every shot. I will never forget that day and how we fixed it. that rifle is still a tack driver to this day over 35 years later.
At 17 I bought a M96 with a Nikki Stirling silver crown scope .. had a similar experience exept when I strapped it down it shot the same hole at 15yrds ... that was a head scratch untill I looked down the scope ... the scope was walking 1/2 inch every shot . New scope solved the issue
Sir You spot on at 9:07 people forget that would be like a pack,log ,etc etc in the field. Agree with you on your bags rest etc etc.I find it best to be consistent session to session on what rests one uses n be comfortable.
Good video Ron, I’m sure there are a ton of us out there who don’t shoot this much just to see consistency, there seems to be many who do 3 shots and if it does a tight group 1 time they call it good. I haven’t had bad luck with many rifles myself, but I did have 1 that I worked with that was a lesson on many aspects which became a learning curve. Bedding the stock, floating a barrel, weighing cases for consistency, etc…. It seems aggravating to deal with but when it’s a “project” you enjoy trouble shooting and figuring it out.
Thank you Ron. Last beluga hunt driving the boat and controlling the throttle control was challenging for my self. My 375rum shoot .5 MOA too so many factors play when we hunt
Really enjoyed this episode. I totally agree with your thoughts on getting to know your equipment. I learn a lot from you. You definitely have a lot more experience than me. I've never hunted in Africa. What a nice time that must be. Sure was nice to see that last group when you did what your wife asked. Lol. I don't know the environment you're hunting in Africa. I try to load and test in the spring when temps and humidity is similar to fall hunting, but there is no guarantee. I sure would like to see the update video when you get your load figured out to what you like and you tell us the differences. Thank you so much.
I'm shooting a Browning High Wall 1885 falling block in 454 Casull at 1000+ yards. The falling block action is by far my most favorite. Being chambered in the 454 Casull pistol cartridge the general accuracy is 1-1.5" at 100 and at 1000 it is about 30". Lobbing the rounds over 29 Mils of elevation dialed in the scope. Nearly 3 seconds of flight time too. The bullets I am shooting are the 300gr Alco ULD .452" and I am running them at 2050 fps average mv. In a 9 lb gun there is substantial recoil but it is a heck of a fun gun to shoot. One of the interesting things about the Browning that sets it apart from all other falling blocks is that the barrel is truly free floating. The forend is attached to a tang that extends from the action separately from the barrel. All other falling blocks like the Ruger No. 1 or the Winchester or any other 1885 variant have the forend attached to the barrel itself which can and will cause harmonic inconsistencies that can change with humidity and temperature changes as the wood swells or shrinks. Also if you are resting a forend that is attached to the barrel that can cause inconsistencies if the exact same point of rest isn't achieved every time.
Love the casual in a rifle. I have a rossi 92 in casual. Shoot 300gr xtp at about 1850fps. Use it for whitetail and have taken a bear with it. Very confident to a 150 yds off hand. Amazing your getting 1000yds though.
@@mjcrow75 I have a Rossi Puma M92 20" as well in 454, you could probably get a bit more than 1850 out of it with the 300gr xtp. That's is what I generally go for as a hunting round. I love that it has 9+1 capacity and has generally the same ballistics as a 45-70. 300gr at 1900 + fps. Same down range energy with higher capacity. It's a very underrated cartridge.
Yeah I'm not at max load, but shoots really well. If I want to get the best velocity I go to the 240gr xtp. Shoots that really well also and velocities are getting up over 2100fps. Always wanted a Thompson center in 460 s&w so I could shoot both. Haven't ran across one for sale yet.
Don't forget, temperature could have been affecting the accuracy/precision of your handloads when you were in Africa, as well. Some powders are not as affected by temperature, while others are greatly affected. Just something to always keep in mind. As you say, this is why we shoot our rifles, and get familiar with them and the loads we are running. This jumping around from bullet to bullet doesn't fly either, but something that needs to be done, to confirm the best load and bullet for your rifle, before a major hunt.. Yes, it's fun to hunt with a beautiful rife like yours Ron, but if said rifle doesn't shoot well, leave it at home!!!
If you take all the first shots of each group you will that they make a very small tight group. Light rifles with light barrels need really cool barrels to shoot well. Its the first shot that counts.
Hey you're right, I hadn't noticed that but all the first shots together would've made a very tight group. And all the second shots would also have made a nice tight group. The third shots were a little more erratic. There's a fairly substantial cold bore shift going on, it seems to me.
I've got a husqvarna m98 in 9.3x62 and last time I shot it it was all over the place, then I noticed the bedding screw on the forestock was walking loose. Just threw a new scope on it so I have to see how it shoots now but it should be a bit better
Been Following Ron and this rifle and I’ve wanted me another falling block but man this is not what I expected from park west out of a $13k-/+ rifle. My ruger number 1 in 300 wsm is under 1/2 moa. All day long.
When all else fails for acceptable accuracy, I've had success with chrio treatment to solve stringing issues and fire lapping for excessive dispersion issues. I've had good success using the Caldwell "Fire Control" shooting rest.
I've shot #1 Rutgers for years and had some experience with the Dakota 10 257 Weatherby of my shooting partner. We found that where the forearm is placed on the bag makes a huge difference in poi. Something to be aware of.
8 have many scraps of lumber from projects around the house. I have rough cut 2"x10" pieces left over from building my ramps and stands to drive my car, pickup, minivan or whatever I have to work under. If my bags are too short I cut some of these scraps to be a bit longer and wider than the bags. Stack them up enough to get the right height. If the 2" thickness is too much I have 1"x stuff to use.
Single shot Ruger #1's Ive owned group at 5/8 inch-1/2 inch with reloads. That rifle will have a reload that it will eat up and Im confident you will find it Ron. That gun will shoot under an inch no problem.
As a wearer of glasses also Ron, I changed something that I'd like to share with you. I recently got into 22lr precision 50yd target shooting and I took a tip from when I shot competitive archery. Your glasses, if not held in the exact same place, can bend light and change your impact on target, like what you experienced with the parallax moving the crosshair around. What I did recently is take my glasses off, adjust the ocular eye piece for my naked right eye and shoot with regular shooting glasses. It eliminates another variable, and that can save you time and money in the reloading room. Give it a try, it's free. Gorgeous rifle by the way. What kind of wood is that?
Excellent point, Jim. I've noticed some distortion from the glasses from time to time and watch for it, but I haven't yet done a test with and without them to determine if that if affecting group size. Really doesn't matter because when hunting I'll be wearing the glasses anyway, but good point. The walnut is Exhibition Grade.
My first bet, assuming it isn't a mechanical issue like the stock contacting the barrel as you mentioned, would be that this particular rifle just doesn't like something about how you've loaded the ammo. My guess would be either it doesn't love the seating depth, which seems the most likely given the overall vertical stringing, or it just doesn't like that powder/bullet combo. I would definitely play around with a couple other powders. Great video as always, Ron!
While zeroing my .30-06s I could barely get a 3” group at 60 yards and they’re nice rifles and optics. I thought I was awful or I managed to have 2 dud guns. I switched from federal fusion 165gr to some classic Remington 150gr and went to 1” group without touching the scope. Finally, it was not me. It’s usually me
Think your right about your bench rest setup .mine is a stainless steel food prep table and a camping chair.i have shot my most accurate rifle a 4 digit 1st year production winchester model 54 5 shot group into 1 hole with a 4 x weaver scope that I bought the rifle with.scope gone lyman reciever sight installed.kneeling shooting 3 to 4 in group at 100 yds 8 in at 200 yds I will take it I know my rifle is more accurate than ever I will be.so it in spires me I have never lost an animal yet
The tightest group I ever fired was a 3/8" 3 group at 200 meters with my Browning B78 falling block in 30-06. That's 0.17 MOA. I was holding the forend with my hand, which was resting on the bag. No rear bag. I seem to shoot better with simple bags than with the fancy ones or with a bench rest. I used my wallet as a "bag" one time on a 400 yard shot from a tower deer stand. That's a drop dead gorgeous rifle Ron. But above my paygrade, LOL. I'm a sucker for those falling blocks too, and have a modest collection myself. I've been hunting almost exclusively with single shot rifles for over two decades now. The only exception was when I shot a deer with my wife's AR in 350 Legend last year just to test how it performed on deer (I was VERY impressed!) To get a really nice falling block, I took a Ruger #3 that I got for about $500, ordered a barrel from Pac Nor, buttstock from Boyds and sent those along with a chunk of walnut for the forend to my gunsmith and had him build a truly custom rifle to my exact specifications, including the barrel contour I wanted. It was a fraction of the cost of a bare bones Park West, but it is a true bespoke rifle that I love shooting (and showing off :-) Since the #3 is basically a #1 with a classic "S" lever (like on a Winchester 1885 or Stevens Favorite) instead of the Farquharson style lever, it can handle most modern cartridges with ease. The #3 trigger is fully adjustable. That was a number of years ago when I had it built, but you can still find #3s for well under $1000. I'd highly recommend looking into doing something like that to add to your falling block collection!
That's one of my dreams the second one is a low wall in 257 Rob. I hunted with one of them when I was 15 and didn't know how good I had it then all I could think of was a Rem 742 in 30-06 and got one the next year thought I was on top but it took me a few years to realize I didn't need all that fire power never shooting more than two shots at a time I tried to buy the 257 when I was 23 but it was sold out of the family and haven't seen another one
Sometimes you just have to scratch your head, and ask why. I think the concussion of heavier calibers is effected through a solid platform. It take heavier material to absorb that concussion. Another thing to consider is the cross hairs themselves. They are just hair thin pcs of copper. They can also deform, warp,push, or bend with each shot.
I'm team 5 shot group with 5 groups being ideal although I usually only do 3 or 4 groups because ammo is expensive!! LOL. I did it a few years ago with my .30-06 and wrote down what worked best. Fast forward a few years and I can't find that information anywhere 😖. Now I have to do it all over again.
On this whole thing, it's laughable for anyone to say it's you or your setup. Yeah, Ron Spomer doesn't know how to shoot! Give me a break. It's a beautiful rifle, I'm sure it will work out in the end. You're being a gentleman about this. Love the videos and podcast. I want one of those rifles, dream gun.
1st shot your thumb us curled over the stock. 2nd shot your thumb is straight on top of the safety catch. Changed grip of trigger hand, rd shot thumb on top and looked like you pulled the trigger not squeezed. 1st shot squeezed beautifully with trigger looking like it was in the crease of 1st finger digit. shot 2 & 3 looked like trigger on point of finger. For what it's worth. My marksman coach in the army drilled me on consistent trigger hand position
The break barrel / breach loading rifles can be so beautiful. But i have always been leary of their accuracy. I believe it was Jim charmichel who said about the ruger no. 1. (Paraphrasing) They are easy on the eyes but can break your heart.
Hi Ron! Have you tried shooting the rifle only supporting the action with the front rest? The forend wood is attached directly to the barrel, so any forend pressure transfers directly to the barrel. This can cause both barrel deflection and changes to barrel harmonics. For zeroing, I would probably shoot it off bags, but holding the forend with my hand as you would in the field. Either way, 1.5 MOA is still acceptable in a hunting rifle and that SD10 sure is beautiful.
Great advice, ExF1. That is how I will make my final assessment as load development reaches its conclusion. One should make final assessment with his/her most likely field shooting technique.
Enjoying this series. The rifle is shooting well enough, but it might be time for a liitle more load development. I know you like ime the Hammer bullets, and copper in general. Maybe try a Barnes TTSX, which i know you also like, or a Hornady CX. They are probably available in 140 grain, i should think. The velocities are interesting, sibce i will be getting a 7mm-08 soon, and it will likely push them a bit faster. Not sure if the diff will be as much due to the bullet length of copper and the shorter case of the 7mm-08. The pressure probably makes up for it, but i will have to watch the bullet length to make sure i am not using up powder space.
love that your wife is out there with you, my wife joins me in the hot desert sun. love the support she gives me and she surprised me last week by buying me a spike elk tag. it's been years since i went out elk hunting, in my 20's. Now I'm motivated and getting in shape to climb those big hills and moutains's. Good show
Fully bedded is the first thing I thought of when you were having trouble with it the first time out with it that's the best place to start anyway you can easily float it with a barrel channeling tool from Brownells then if you want to try a pressure point you can build it from good black tape I was gifted a roll of railroad black tape it's 2 and a half inches wide and I think it might be thicker than normal but I have used it to free float many barrels and to build a few pressures points then all you have to do is use the same number of layers and make a negative mould and make it permanent with accra glass most times if that will help one of those will get them close if not I go to the crown I can't imagine PARK WEST would make that kind of mistake though good luck .
Hard to give up on a great gift rifle ! Needs a different barrel ? I had a ruger 77 / 7 mm unlucky bad barrel . Took it to gun smith to put on different barrel and zamo !!! same hole groups Barns ammo !
I have a Dakota 76 that is 1/2 MOA. Would send it back to ParkWest if it’s not sub MOA with factory loads. That’s a $10K rifle. Should have some expectations.
Ron, with metal to wood you will never get consistent groups. Weather and humidity WILL make POI and sometimes even group size changes. I know you know this! Sand that forend and float the barrel. Bed reciever and forend and bed around forend screw and hanger, but leave barrel floated. Only way you will get consistent all weather groups. I have 2 Ruger no.1's. Only way i could get them to work well enough for me to trust them hunting.
Just saw this one. I couldnt help but notice that every group was a high and low group. Perhaps the parallax was kicking you. Or maybe there is enough movement in the bed that you are on/off a pressure point? Just some thoughts. I had a 25 - 06 that was an excellent shooter until a rainy deer season. It "grew" a pressure point that gave me fits with 2 groups within a group. I free floated her and she was the bees knees once again.
I just came back from 2 days going to the range and I did about just as good you did. I really felt I was going to improve on my best group Im not going to lie, Im going for the one bug hole group, but it was 2.1 moa 1.7 moa 1.3 moa,1 moa .9 moa all day for the last 2 days.The only difference between you and I is that my rifle has modern technology and innovation on its side, Oh yeah and I use a different set of disciplines then you do, but get same results. I dont know, maybe we are just hoping for too much out of our beloved rifles. What is a sign that we should move on or upgrade.?
I think you already know what the rifle will do off sticks. I saw you smoke an Oryx in Africa at 160 or so yards with one shot and he didn’t seem to care much about the gun’s moa. We all like sub moa groups, but more attention should be paid to quick target acquisition, breathing control, trigger squeeze, follow through, etc.
Great point, Rod. Too many of us get too worked up over target rifle accuracy in hunting rifles. Your perfect shooting on that Africa hunt proves your point. You do not miss!
Right, your 3rd shot is consistent 9/10 o'clock 1" left. I think that is a thermal shift. The right side of the forest end might be tighter to the barrel, giving it a shove left when the barrel grows.
Scope ring too near the front bell? Try another scope? Fix the flimsy front rest set up. It slides around the bench like a Nun on marbles. Plenty of new brass, bullets & powder on hand. Use what the manufacturer uses as a benchmark... Consider cigars or possibly adult beverages after shooting sessions.
HI Ron, it is interesting on testing different ammo and/or loads. In watching I was noticing one thing that I'm sure you've already addressed, but I couldn't tell in this footage of the rifle. That is how close is the front scope ring to the back end of the front bell? Meaning, is the scope ring touching the flared part or is there about a quarter of an inch of tube between that scope ring and the flared part? I ask because Jim at Backfire did make a video showing how if the scope ring is touching the flared part the groups were not as tight as if there was just a slight bit of room between the two. As stated I could not tell in this footage. At times it looked like they were touching and other times it looked like there was a space. Also as I type this it seems like I recall you addressing this in a previous video, but I don't recall if it was with this rifle or not. Any, thanks and take care.
Bell and Corbett didn’t use scope in their countries on rifles . Bell when he was in Scotland on his estate got Rigby to mount Zeiss scopes on his Winchester and some other rifles . For big and dangerous game he used the open sights . His .275 That Shelby got from Ruark was equipped with a scope it’s in the article online . I think a Weaver in an high mount for it to use open sights .
Good Lord, man. Love you videos but please, extend the front two feet & always keep the front rest parallel with the rifle. Keep the front bag inline with the bore or the fore end. 2) Get your cheap rubber mallet & a portable drill, once you've got things lined up tap the 3 front rest feet to make marks on the bench, drill each mark with a cheap chamfer bit. You now have three pockets in the bench top for the front rest, it'll never move around anymore. It's not supposed to move. You may have to drill a few more times for other rifle/rear bag set ups. I drilled one bench top with about six sets on dimple/chamfers for two different rests and universal rifle compatibility. 3) get the rifle riding the bags a little, sliding back & forth, back into battery, doesn't have to be like a BR match but a little would help. If it won't get in the checkering a touch of baby powder works wonders. 4) I know you don't like to tote stuff around but a better or heavier front rest would be nice, even a cheap Caldwell "The Rock" with the narrow front bag would help. If you drill the bench top & tilt the front rest to match the shooting angle, keep a touch of baby powder on the bags your shooting would be a lot easier. 😁😁
Hi Ron, thanks for an exellent channel. I just got hold of an unsused/new No1 RSI/20" barrel in 7x57. Will be used for Reindeer and Deer (Red Stag) in Norway. Will try North Fork bullets, available in 140 or 160 grs. Max range for me is 300 m, most shots closer than 300 m. What bullet weight do You recommend? (Do I have enough barrel for good expansion at 300 m with the 160 grs bullet, loaded with medium or a little bit higher loads?) Brgds. Lars Håheim
I nearly always test my rifles and loads off a rest but holding the fore end since I’m a hunter not a bench rest shooter. With hunting weight rifles I tend to get better groups. I currently own three Ruger No1’s. 6mm REM half MOA or better. .45/70 and .416Rem mag one MOA if I do my bit. Sir with great respect, hold that fore end and pull the butt into your shoulder. Is the barrel contacting the front of the fore end if it is sand it out so it’s floated. Sorry if I’m preaching to the choir. Brits shoot 🇬🇧
Ron, if u send it back to them, and say it's 1/2", ask exactly what ammo, velocity and "all" conditions they're getting that. Is a guy shooting it or a heavy sled, ect! Looks like a very nice rifle though.....
The 1st thing to do Ron, is stop listening to the guys who tell you that their rifle shoots 1/2 MOA, especially with the kind of rifle you have there. You've said yourself that these kinds of rifles are not BR rifles & were never intended to shoot that way. Truth is, even if the rifle did shoot 1/2", you'd never see that shooting off sticks & such. At a guess I'd say your getting around 1/2" to 3/4" mean radius & that's all that really matters. With a mean radius of 1/2 to 3/4", that rifle will do anything you need it to do &, at the end of the day shooting off sticks & freehand & etc, the rifle will shoot better than you or anybody, for that matter. It's a beautiful rifle Ron. For what you're doing it shoots just fine. Go out & enjoy it & don't let those bullshitters spoil your joy.
Hey Ron I see you have a sling band on the rifle, did that come on the rifle or did you at that? When sighting the rifle does it change impact when you have a sling hanging off of it? If you added it did you need to rezero the rifle after adding the sling band to the barrel?
Good questions, Larry. The barrel sling mount is traditional on many African-style rifles with which precision accuracy isn't a big concern. Most shots taken inside of 100 yards. This little gem in 7x57 is more than 300-yards-capable and probably 400-yards, distances at which changing tensions on the barrel could, indeed, change bullet placement. As a result,
Ron..brother..lighten up…The Wife was trying and so was I…..as I watched you pick that rifle up at the the end of the movie I thought..man…..pull that awful scope off that poor thang ….grab that it in your hans the way nature tells ya to..and let yourSELF exPress through it. I reckon you’ll hit where your happy to…I had a little gun was my gramps that was prolly not a 22 as we know it but falling block anyway and it was like carrying a stick around and hit whatever I wanted. No gun I have had since was felt more natural….scopes..bolts..clips..mags…levers….don’t get me wrong..a quick follow up is probably a good idea on a beast but..then again…what is easier to reload than a drop-block! Now…60 years on it is….Break action…single shot…good placement…DRT… the new sights with the little dot are good for the old eyes too. Pop
Im starting to think its a parallax problem..or a forend pressure problem..or possibly a free bore travel issue.. maybe try a barrel dampener ? Not all rifle's are accurate.. i would try to develop 1 load at a time.. try to be comfortable and consistent and possibly try a bore snake at the range for a quick clean up at the range
I'm sorry to have so many opinions but I would have turned those bags 90 degrees and just push the front into the sand a little then hopefully your rear bags are too high if so just thump the stock into the bank until it's very close then you can make small adjustments with your off hand
I admire the dedication, your form seems fine enough as well. I think the gun is just a turd, not unusable for hunting but would for sure be disappointing for its very hefty price. But it's a free country!
I’d be really disheartened if a custom build rifle only shot 1.5” An 1.5” group is kinda poor for a custom rifle. I would send it back, I would not do anything to it, to give the gun maker an out. (Meaning you altered the rifle, you caused the accuracy issues) You keep braying about how “well made and accurate”park west rifles are; then send it back and make them prove it.
Hi ron im from south africa and i just want to know im going into the ph industry what do you think is the best all round gun for africa(south africa) and then i want to know what is the best gun for up to 300 meters. Because everybody says 30.06 or 6.5 creedmoor. And then also what is the all round best gun for springbuck(springbok)? Is it 243.... or what?
Too broad a question, Tia, but an equally broad answer is 300 Win Mag. in a bolt action repeater. Best springbuck rifle could be 257 Wby, 25-06 Rem., or even 243 Win., 6mm Creedmoor.
Any time I have a puzzle with accuracy I swap the scope, usually I find it's the optic. Example, I built up a precise load for a single shot 25-06. 1/2 inch groups turned to 1 inch then 3 inch. Put a scope I don't care for on it, back to 1/2 inch. The old scope groups perfect with a .22 mag, but something is possibly loose inside. Not the gun, scope pooped out.
I'm surprised that your expensive falling block does not have an ejector. A Browning high wall does and probably would shoot better. My low wall .223 also has no ejector but it shoots so well I don't mind.
What works...works. Such a pleasure to listen to someone who knows that EVERYTHING MATTERS Ron. Parts that touch, trigger pressure points, where you support the rifle, barrel temp, differences in ammo, etc, etc. It ALL matters. Always a pleasure to watch & listen to you brother👍 Thank you.
Ron, please send that rifle back to Park West. They have a 1/2 MOA guarantee. Quit fighting it. Park West should be ashamed of themselves on this rifle.
Facts, if the rifle isn’t living up to the guarantee after all this it’s time for an exchange
1/2 moa is twice as good as 1 moa. So why be ashamed of it?
@@jonathanechols9985You completely misunderstood the comment
having checked scope mounting, shot different groups with similar results, I would have to agree to send it back to park west. to have the rifle evaluated. no embarrassment just the right thing to do with 1/2 MOA guarantee.
Guys, I think you're jumping the gun, so to speak. I've barely begun working with this gem! Parkwest Arms guarantees MOA accuracy (3-shots) for their SD-10 rifles, and I've already gotten two groups that tight. I'm now searching for the best bullet, velocity, seating depth, etc. I enjoy this kind of "bonding" with my rifles. All part of the discovery. More to come.
Many years ago, I had an issue. Everything was good before going out. Then it all went downhill. My uncle shot it to rule me out. Then different ammo. We strapped the rifle down and it drove tacks. Took hold of the scope, and it moved. We removed the scope and reset it in the rings, sighted it in and all was good. Somehow the scope ring loosened up and the scope move, with every shot. I will never forget that day and how we fixed it. that rifle is still a tack driver to this day over 35 years later.
At 17 I bought a M96 with a Nikki Stirling silver crown scope .. had a similar experience exept when I strapped it down it shot the same hole at 15yrds ... that was a head scratch untill I looked down the scope ... the scope was walking 1/2 inch every shot . New scope solved the issue
Sir You spot on at 9:07 people forget that would be like a pack,log ,etc etc in the field.
Agree with you on your bags rest etc etc.I find it best to be consistent session to session on what rests one uses n be comfortable.
Ron, send it back and give Parkwest the chance to make it right😊
Good video Ron, I’m sure there are a ton of us out there who don’t shoot this much just to see consistency, there seems to be many who do 3 shots and if it does a tight group 1 time they call it good.
I haven’t had bad luck with many rifles myself, but I did have 1 that I worked with that was a lesson on many aspects which became a learning curve.
Bedding the stock, floating a barrel, weighing cases for consistency, etc….
It seems aggravating to deal with but when it’s a “project” you enjoy trouble shooting and figuring it out.
Your bench is just fine. I’ve shot many, many sub MOA groups from a folding bench.
I've got a ruger no1 in 243 from like the 70's. Mint condition. Shoots about the same as yours. Tried 4-5 different loads.
Thank you Ron. Last beluga hunt driving the boat and controlling the throttle control was challenging for my self. My 375rum shoot .5 MOA too so many factors play when we hunt
Really enjoyed this episode.
I totally agree with your thoughts on getting to know your equipment.
I learn a lot from you. You definitely have a lot more experience than me. I've never hunted in Africa.
What a nice time that must be.
Sure was nice to see that last group when you did what your wife asked. Lol.
I don't know the environment you're hunting in Africa.
I try to load and test in the spring when temps and humidity is similar to fall hunting, but there is no guarantee. I sure would like to see the update video when you get your load figured out to what you like and you tell us the differences.
Thank you so much.
I enjoyed this video Mr. Ron as you gave a detailed explanation of how to tighten up a group and methodically go through the paces! Best of luck.
I'm shooting a Browning High Wall 1885 falling block in 454 Casull at 1000+ yards. The falling block action is by far my most favorite. Being chambered in the 454 Casull pistol cartridge the general accuracy is 1-1.5" at 100 and at 1000 it is about 30". Lobbing the rounds over 29 Mils of elevation dialed in the scope. Nearly 3 seconds of flight time too.
The bullets I am shooting are the 300gr Alco ULD .452" and I am running them at 2050 fps average mv.
In a 9 lb gun there is substantial recoil but it is a heck of a fun gun to shoot.
One of the interesting things about the Browning that sets it apart from all other falling blocks is that the barrel is truly free floating. The forend is attached to a tang that extends from the action separately from the barrel. All other falling blocks like the Ruger No. 1 or the Winchester or any other 1885 variant have the forend attached to the barrel itself which can and will cause harmonic inconsistencies that can change with humidity and temperature changes as the wood swells or shrinks. Also if you are resting a forend that is attached to the barrel that can cause inconsistencies if the exact same point of rest isn't achieved every time.
Love the casual in a rifle. I have a rossi 92 in casual. Shoot 300gr xtp at about 1850fps. Use it for whitetail and have taken a bear with it. Very confident to a 150 yds off hand. Amazing your getting 1000yds though.
@@mjcrow75 I have a Rossi Puma M92 20" as well in 454, you could probably get a bit more than 1850 out of it with the 300gr xtp. That's is what I generally go for as a hunting round. I love that it has 9+1 capacity and has generally the same ballistics as a 45-70. 300gr at 1900 + fps. Same down range energy with higher capacity. It's a very underrated cartridge.
Yeah I'm not at max load, but shoots really well. If I want to get the best velocity I go to the 240gr xtp. Shoots that really well also and velocities are getting up over 2100fps. Always wanted a Thompson center in 460 s&w so I could shoot both. Haven't ran across one for sale yet.
@@RecreationalSniperagree on cartridge being under rated. Don't quite get why there aren't more lever guns being made for the magnum pistol rounds.
@@mjcrow75 Big Horn Armory makes several lever guns in different magnum pistol cartridges but they are pretty pricey.
Ron, use what you are comfortable with. You know more about shooting than 90% of your viewers.
Don't forget, temperature could have been affecting the accuracy/precision of your handloads when you were in Africa, as well. Some powders are not as affected by temperature, while others are greatly affected. Just something to always keep in mind. As you say, this is why we shoot our rifles, and get familiar with them and the loads we are running. This jumping around from bullet to bullet doesn't fly either, but something that needs to be done, to confirm the best load and bullet for your rifle, before a major hunt.. Yes, it's fun to hunt with a beautiful rife like yours Ron, but if said rifle doesn't shoot well, leave it at home!!!
If you take all the first shots of each group you will that they make a very small tight group. Light rifles with light barrels need really cool barrels to shoot well. Its the first shot that counts.
Hey you're right, I hadn't noticed that but all the first shots together would've made a very tight group. And all the second shots would also have made a nice tight group. The third shots were a little more erratic. There's a fairly substantial cold bore shift going on, it seems to me.
I've got a husqvarna m98 in 9.3x62 and last time I shot it it was all over the place, then I noticed the bedding screw on the forestock was walking loose. Just threw a new scope on it so I have to see how it shoots now but it should be a bit better
Honestly 7x57 mauser was originally built for 173 gr ammo... Try it and see if it groups better if not ,then its something else
Been Following Ron and this rifle and I’ve wanted me another falling block but man this is not what I expected from park west out of a $13k-/+ rifle. My ruger number 1 in 300 wsm is under 1/2 moa. All day long.
When all else fails for acceptable accuracy, I've had success with chrio treatment to solve stringing issues and fire lapping for excessive dispersion issues.
I've had good success using the Caldwell "Fire Control" shooting rest.
Thanks Ron!
I've shot #1 Rutgers for years and had some experience with the Dakota 10 257 Weatherby of my shooting partner. We found that where the forearm is placed on the bag makes a huge difference in poi. Something to be aware of.
What a beautiful rifle and ammo blocks! Nice!
I agree with johnsky. For the price of that rifle I think those old Dakota boys that are still there should tune her up for ya.
That is one fine rifle! If you sand on that stock you have some huge balls sir. Yes I would love to see more load work on that model 10 😊
I agree Ron u setup better than mine I do most bench off bed rail on pickup kill plenty game
Send it back Ron.
8 have many scraps of lumber from projects around the house. I have rough cut 2"x10" pieces left over from building my ramps and stands to drive my car, pickup, minivan or whatever I have to work under.
If my bags are too short I cut some of these scraps to be a bit longer and wider than the bags. Stack them up enough to get the right height. If the 2" thickness is too much I have 1"x stuff to use.
Single shot Ruger #1's Ive owned group at 5/8 inch-1/2 inch with reloads. That rifle will have a reload that it will eat up and Im confident you will find it Ron. That gun will shoot under an inch no problem.
Ruger No1’s are accurate I have owned four. Even my .416 REM Mag will shoot close to MOA if I do my bit. My 6mm REM is a half MOA rifle.
As a wearer of glasses also Ron, I changed something that I'd like to share with you. I recently got into 22lr precision 50yd target shooting and I took a tip from when I shot competitive archery. Your glasses, if not held in the exact same place, can bend light and change your impact on target, like what you experienced with the parallax moving the crosshair around. What I did recently is take my glasses off, adjust the ocular eye piece for my naked right eye and shoot with regular shooting glasses. It eliminates another variable, and that can save you time and money in the reloading room. Give it a try, it's free. Gorgeous rifle by the way. What kind of wood is that?
Excellent point, Jim. I've noticed some distortion from the glasses from time to time and watch for it, but I haven't yet done a test with and without them to determine if that if affecting group size. Really doesn't matter because when hunting I'll be wearing the glasses anyway, but good point. The walnut is Exhibition Grade.
Good to see that you don’t like to argue 😬
My first bet, assuming it isn't a mechanical issue like the stock contacting the barrel as you mentioned, would be that this particular rifle just doesn't like something about how you've loaded the ammo. My guess would be either it doesn't love the seating depth, which seems the most likely given the overall vertical stringing, or it just doesn't like that powder/bullet combo. I would definitely play around with a couple other powders.
Great video as always, Ron!
That's a Beautiful Rifle. I would love to have one half as pretty.
While zeroing my .30-06s I could barely get a 3” group at 60 yards and they’re nice rifles and optics. I thought I was awful or I managed to have 2 dud guns. I switched from federal fusion 165gr to some classic Remington 150gr and went to 1” group without touching the scope.
Finally, it was not me. It’s usually me
Think your right about your bench rest setup .mine is a stainless steel food prep table and a camping chair.i have shot my most accurate rifle a 4 digit 1st year production winchester model 54 5 shot group into 1 hole with a 4 x weaver scope that I bought the rifle with.scope gone lyman reciever sight installed.kneeling shooting 3 to 4 in group at 100 yds
8 in at 200 yds I will take it
I know my rifle is more accurate than ever I will be.so it in spires me
I have never lost an animal yet
The tightest group I ever fired was a 3/8" 3 group at 200 meters with my Browning B78 falling block in 30-06. That's 0.17 MOA. I was holding the forend with my hand, which was resting on the bag. No rear bag. I seem to shoot better with simple bags than with the fancy ones or with a bench rest. I used my wallet as a "bag" one time on a 400 yard shot from a tower deer stand.
That's a drop dead gorgeous rifle Ron. But above my paygrade, LOL. I'm a sucker for those falling blocks too, and have a modest collection myself. I've been hunting almost exclusively with single shot rifles for over two decades now. The only exception was when I shot a deer with my wife's AR in 350 Legend last year just to test how it performed on deer (I was VERY impressed!)
To get a really nice falling block, I took a Ruger #3 that I got for about $500, ordered a barrel from Pac Nor, buttstock from Boyds and sent those along with a chunk of walnut for the forend to my gunsmith and had him build a truly custom rifle to my exact specifications, including the barrel contour I wanted. It was a fraction of the cost of a bare bones Park West, but it is a true bespoke rifle that I love shooting (and showing off :-)
Since the #3 is basically a #1 with a classic "S" lever (like on a Winchester 1885 or Stevens Favorite) instead of the Farquharson style lever, it can handle most modern cartridges with ease. The #3 trigger is fully adjustable.
That was a number of years ago when I had it built, but you can still find #3s for well under $1000. I'd highly recommend looking into doing something like that to add to your falling block collection!
That's one of my dreams the second one is a low wall in 257 Rob. I hunted with one of them when I was 15 and didn't know how good I had it then all I could think of was a Rem 742 in 30-06 and got one the next year thought I was on top but it took me a few years to realize I didn't need all that fire power never shooting more than two shots at a time I tried to buy the 257 when I was 23 but it was sold out of the family and haven't seen another one
What a pretty gun and if I never hear the word bullbag again, I will be happy
Sometimes you just have to scratch your head, and ask why.
I think the concussion of heavier calibers is effected through a solid platform. It take heavier material to absorb that concussion.
Another thing to consider is the cross hairs themselves. They are just hair thin pcs of copper. They can also deform, warp,push, or bend with each shot.
If had that Model 10 I would make like 500 videos with it !!!
I'm team 5 shot group with 5 groups being ideal although I usually only do 3 or 4 groups because ammo is expensive!! LOL. I did it a few years ago with my .30-06 and wrote down what worked best. Fast forward a few years and I can't find that information anywhere 😖. Now I have to do it all over again.
Thank you! Fun vid to watch.
It's possible in transportation they put your gun/ scope on a surface that vibrated. The scope may have taken 50 years of damage in 20 hours.
On this whole thing, it's laughable for anyone to say it's you or your setup. Yeah, Ron Spomer doesn't know how to shoot! Give me a break. It's a beautiful rifle, I'm sure it will work out in the end. You're being a gentleman about this. Love the videos and podcast. I want one of those rifles, dream gun.
Right there with you, Ron. That's a rifle I'd trust in the field taking down a Muley or Elk any day.
1st shot your thumb us curled over the stock. 2nd shot your thumb is straight on top of the safety catch. Changed grip of trigger hand, rd shot thumb on top and looked like you pulled the trigger not squeezed. 1st shot squeezed beautifully with trigger looking like it was in the crease of 1st finger digit. shot 2 & 3 looked like trigger on point of finger. For what it's worth. My marksman coach in the army drilled me on consistent trigger hand position
The break barrel / breach loading rifles can be so beautiful. But i have always been leary of their accuracy. I believe it was Jim charmichel who said about the ruger no. 1. (Paraphrasing) They are easy on the eyes but can break your heart.
Thank you for this comment. I have been looking at single shots. I will do more research.
Hi Ron! Have you tried shooting the rifle only supporting the action with the front rest? The forend wood is attached directly to the barrel, so any forend pressure transfers directly to the barrel. This can cause both barrel deflection and changes to barrel harmonics.
For zeroing, I would probably shoot it off bags, but holding the forend with my hand as you would in the field.
Either way, 1.5 MOA is still acceptable in a hunting rifle and that SD10 sure is beautiful.
Great advice, ExF1. That is how I will make my final assessment as load development reaches its conclusion. One should make final assessment with his/her most likely field shooting technique.
Carry on one of your better series Sir.
Powder n Charges Even Primer. !!!???
God Bless Ya n Yours
Enjoying this series. The rifle is shooting well enough, but it might be time for a liitle more load development. I know you like ime the Hammer bullets, and copper in general. Maybe try a Barnes TTSX, which i know you also like, or a Hornady CX. They are probably available in 140 grain, i should think. The velocities are interesting, sibce i will be getting a 7mm-08 soon, and it will likely push them a bit faster. Not sure if the diff will be as much due to the bullet length of copper and the shorter case of the 7mm-08. The pressure probably makes up for it, but i will have to watch the bullet length to make sure i am not using up powder space.
love that your wife is out there with you, my wife joins me in the hot desert sun. love the support she gives me and she surprised me last week by buying me a spike elk tag. it's been years since i went out elk hunting, in my 20's. Now I'm motivated and getting in shape to climb those big hills and moutains's. Good show
Good on you for getting in elk shape. And best of luck on your hunt. One of the best venisons around, elk.
Your set up is valid. Field use is all kinds of different. You don't want to test any gun in a vise...
Maybe 2950 fps is hot as hell for a 7x57. Backing down a bit to more moderare velocities might help. BTW, keep up the good work with that beauty!!
Have seen on some rifles with the sling band, too tight and actually tightened the bore in that spot and couldn’t group at all well.
Caldwell Lead Sled is an awesome rest. Takes the human element out of it.
Fully bedded is the first thing I thought of when you were having trouble with it the first time out with it that's the best place to start anyway you can easily float it with a barrel channeling tool from Brownells then if you want to try a pressure point you can build it from good black tape I was gifted a roll of railroad black tape it's 2 and a half inches wide and I think it might be thicker than normal but I have used it to free float many barrels and to build a few pressures points then all you have to do is use the same number of layers and make a negative mould and make it permanent with accra glass most times if that will help one of those will get them close if not I go to the crown I can't imagine PARK WEST would make that kind of mistake though good luck .
Hard to give up on a great gift rifle ! Needs a different barrel ? I had a ruger 77 / 7 mm unlucky bad barrel . Took it to gun smith to put on different barrel and zamo !!! same hole groups Barns ammo !
ParkWest gave it to him?
I have a Dakota 76 that is 1/2 MOA. Would send it back to ParkWest if it’s not sub MOA with factory loads. That’s a $10K rifle. Should have some expectations.
Ron, with metal to wood you will never get consistent groups. Weather and humidity WILL make POI and sometimes even group size changes. I know you know this! Sand that forend and float the barrel. Bed reciever and forend and bed around forend screw and hanger, but leave barrel floated. Only way you will get consistent all weather groups. I have 2 Ruger no.1's. Only way i could get them to work well enough for me to trust them hunting.
Beautiful rifle.
Sorry about the book you probably know all I said but that's my dream rifle too
Just saw this one. I couldnt help but notice that every group was a high and low group. Perhaps the parallax was kicking you. Or maybe there is enough movement in the bed that you are on/off a pressure point? Just some thoughts. I had a 25 - 06 that was an excellent shooter until a rainy deer season. It "grew" a pressure point that gave me fits with 2 groups within a group. I free floated her and she was the bees knees once again.
Did you consider the rifling twist and its relationship to bullet weight/length
I just came back from 2 days going to the range and I did about just as good you did. I really felt I was going to improve on my best group Im not going to lie, Im going for the one bug hole group, but it was 2.1 moa 1.7 moa 1.3 moa,1 moa .9 moa all day for the last 2 days.The only difference between you and I is that my rifle has modern technology and innovation on its side, Oh yeah and I use a different set of disciplines then you do, but get same results. I dont know, maybe we are just hoping for too much out of our beloved rifles. What is a sign that we should move on or upgrade.?
Ignore him, Thank You for sharing with all of us. When we share together, we learn together
jmp
I think you already know what the rifle will do off sticks. I saw you smoke an Oryx in Africa at 160 or so yards with one shot and he didn’t seem to care much about the gun’s moa. We all like sub moa groups, but more attention should be paid to quick target acquisition, breathing control, trigger squeeze, follow through, etc.
Great point, Rod. Too many of us get too worked up over target rifle accuracy in hunting rifles. Your perfect shooting on that Africa hunt proves your point. You do not miss!
I was never able to get 1 moa with my Ruger No.1. Felt falling block and SAMMI slop was cause.
Right, your 3rd shot is consistent 9/10 o'clock 1" left. I think that is a thermal shift. The right side of the forest end might be tighter to the barrel, giving it a shove left when the barrel grows.
Scope ring too near the front bell? Try another scope? Fix the flimsy front rest set up. It slides around the bench like a Nun on marbles. Plenty of new brass, bullets & powder on hand. Use what the manufacturer uses as a benchmark... Consider cigars or possibly adult beverages after shooting sessions.
Rifles with 2-piece stocks are notoriously hard to be precise on target.
That beautiful rifle is better than I am.
Run some 140 Berger VLDs with N540. May want to have a conversation with the rifle manufacturer.
HI Ron, it is interesting on testing different ammo and/or loads. In watching I was noticing one thing that I'm sure you've already addressed, but I couldn't tell in this footage of the rifle. That is how close is the front scope ring to the back end of the front bell? Meaning, is the scope ring touching the flared part or is there about a quarter of an inch of tube between that scope ring and the flared part? I ask because Jim at Backfire did make a video showing how if the scope ring is touching the flared part the groups were not as tight as if there was just a slight bit of room between the two. As stated I could not tell in this footage. At times it looked like they were touching and other times it looked like there was a space. Also as I type this it seems like I recall you addressing this in a previous video, but I don't recall if it was with this rifle or not. Any, thanks and take care.
Ron do you know what model scope and power Karamojo Bell, J A Hunter or Jim Corbett used ?
Bell and Corbett didn’t use scope in their countries on rifles . Bell when he was in Scotland on his estate got Rigby to mount Zeiss scopes on his Winchester and some other rifles . For big and dangerous game he used the open sights . His .275
That Shelby got from Ruark was equipped with a scope it’s in the article online . I think a Weaver in an high mount for it to use open sights .
I am pretty sure neither of those men used scopes on their 275s Rigbys 😅
Good Lord, man. Love you videos but please, extend the front two feet & always keep the front rest parallel with the rifle. Keep the front bag inline with the bore or the fore end. 2) Get your cheap rubber mallet & a portable drill, once you've got things lined up tap the 3 front rest feet to make marks on the bench, drill each mark with a cheap chamfer bit. You now have three pockets in the bench top for the front rest, it'll never move around anymore. It's not supposed to move. You may have to drill a few more times for other rifle/rear bag set ups. I drilled one bench top with about six sets on dimple/chamfers for two different rests and universal rifle compatibility. 3) get the rifle riding the bags a little, sliding back & forth, back into battery, doesn't have to be like a BR match but a little would help. If it won't get in the checkering a touch of baby powder works wonders. 4) I know you don't like to tote stuff around but a better or heavier front rest would be nice, even a cheap Caldwell "The Rock" with the narrow front bag would help. If you drill the bench top & tilt the front rest to match the shooting angle, keep a touch of baby powder on the bags your shooting would be a lot easier. 😁😁
Hi Ron, thanks for an exellent channel. I just got hold of an unsused/new No1 RSI/20" barrel in 7x57. Will be used for Reindeer and Deer (Red Stag) in Norway. Will try North Fork bullets, available in 140 or 160 grs. Max range for me is 300 m, most shots closer than 300 m. What bullet weight do You recommend? (Do I have enough barrel for good expansion at 300 m with the 160 grs bullet, loaded with medium or a little bit higher loads?)
Brgds.
Lars Håheim
I just cant imagine the $ vs accuracy with this rifle. I think i could go to a big box store and buy somthing that equals the MOA with factory ammo
The scope appears to be mounted, high preventing a solid cheek weld. Thus parallax problems.
i have watched all vids with that gun i would be crying if i had a 10 grand gun that shot like that
I would have thrown up!
You should have got it in a 6.5 Creedmoor. This is the 6.5 Creedmoor channel afterall. 😂 Creedmoor, Creedmoor, Creedmoor!!!!
😂
I nearly always test my rifles and loads off a rest but holding the fore end since I’m a hunter not a bench rest shooter. With hunting weight rifles I tend to get better groups. I currently own three Ruger No1’s. 6mm REM half MOA or better. .45/70 and .416Rem mag one MOA if I do my bit. Sir with great respect, hold that fore end and pull the butt into your shoulder. Is the barrel contacting the front of the fore end if it is sand it out so it’s floated. Sorry if I’m preaching to the choir. Brits shoot 🇬🇧
Ron, what's the powder and primer you're using? What was the reason for selecting them?
Ron, if u send it back to them, and say it's 1/2", ask exactly what ammo, velocity and "all" conditions they're getting that. Is a guy shooting it or a heavy sled, ect!
Looks like a very nice rifle though.....
The 1st thing to do Ron, is stop listening to the guys who tell you that their rifle shoots 1/2 MOA, especially with the kind of rifle you have there. You've said yourself that these kinds of rifles are not BR rifles & were never intended to shoot that way. Truth is, even if the rifle did shoot 1/2", you'd never see that shooting off sticks & such. At a guess I'd say your getting around 1/2" to 3/4" mean radius & that's all that really matters. With a mean radius of 1/2 to 3/4", that rifle will do anything you need it to do &, at the end of the day shooting off sticks & freehand & etc, the rifle will shoot better than you or anybody, for that matter.
It's a beautiful rifle Ron. For what you're doing it shoots just fine. Go out & enjoy it & don't let those bullshitters spoil your joy.
Hey Ron I see you have a sling band on the rifle, did that come on the rifle or did you at that? When sighting the rifle does it change impact when you have a sling hanging off of it? If you added it did you need to rezero the rifle after adding the sling band to the barrel?
Good questions, Larry. The barrel sling mount is traditional on many African-style rifles with which precision accuracy isn't a big concern. Most shots taken inside of 100 yards. This little gem in 7x57 is more than 300-yards-capable and probably 400-yards, distances at which changing tensions on the barrel could, indeed, change bullet placement. As a result,
Ron..brother..lighten up…The Wife was trying and so was I…..as I watched you pick that rifle up at the the end of the movie I thought..man…..pull that awful scope off that poor thang ….grab that it in your hans the way nature tells ya to..and let yourSELF exPress through it. I reckon you’ll hit where your happy to…I had a little gun was my gramps that was prolly not a 22 as we know it but falling block anyway and it was like carrying a stick around and hit whatever I wanted. No gun I have had since was felt more natural….scopes..bolts..clips..mags…levers….don’t get me wrong..a quick follow up is probably a good idea on a beast but..then again…what is easier to reload than a drop-block! Now…60 years on it is….Break action…single shot…good placement…DRT… the new sights with the little dot are good for the old eyes too. Pop
CORDITE 55-440 MAX is it a nitro proof or black powder proof ?which cartridge could be used
Im starting to think its a parallax problem..or a forend pressure problem..or possibly a free bore travel issue.. maybe try a barrel dampener ? Not all rifle's are accurate.. i would try to develop 1 load at a time.. try to be comfortable and consistent and possibly try a bore snake at the range for a quick clean up at the range
I bet ParkWest is cringing when they watch these videos. I am and I did not build it or spend over ten thousand dollars on a rifle, ouch!
I'm sorry to have so many opinions but I would have turned those bags 90 degrees and just push the front into the sand a little then hopefully your rear bags are too high if so just thump the stock into the bank until it's very close then you can make small adjustments with your off hand
I admire the dedication, your form seems fine enough as well. I think the gun is just a turd, not unusable for hunting but would for sure be disappointing for its very hefty price. But it's a free country!
Have you shared how much you actually paid for this rifle that won’t even shoot sub-MOA but looks really cool? Not mocking, just genuinely curious.
its the gun. the extremely expensive gun. it won't group.
One of the most attractive rifles ever built!
I’d be really disheartened if a custom build rifle only shot 1.5”
An 1.5” group is kinda poor for a custom rifle. I would send it back, I would not do anything to it, to give the gun maker an out. (Meaning you altered the rifle, you caused the accuracy issues)
You keep braying about how “well made and accurate”park west rifles are; then send it back and make them prove it.
Hi ron im from south africa and i just want to know im going into the ph industry what do you think is the best all round gun for africa(south africa) and then i want to know what is the best gun for up to 300 meters. Because everybody says 30.06 or 6.5 creedmoor. And then also what is the all round best gun for springbuck(springbok)? Is it 243.... or what?
30-06, 300WM, or 375. For all-around - 30-06
Too broad a question, Tia, but an equally broad answer is 300 Win Mag. in a bolt action repeater. Best springbuck rifle could be 257 Wby, 25-06 Rem., or even 243 Win., 6mm Creedmoor.
Any time I have a puzzle with accuracy I swap the scope, usually I find it's the optic. Example, I built up a precise load for a single shot 25-06. 1/2 inch groups turned to 1 inch then 3 inch. Put a scope I don't care for on it, back to 1/2 inch. The old scope groups perfect with a .22 mag, but something is possibly loose inside. Not the gun, scope pooped out.
If you overlay the first shot of all your groups it's 3/4MOA🎉
I am enjoying this fyi
Would you consider reviewing a Uberti 1885 High Wall in 45/70?
I'm surprised that your expensive falling block does not have an ejector. A Browning high wall does and probably would shoot better. My low wall .223 also has no ejector but it shoots so well I don't mind.