This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on aliexpress but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
I always enjoy your videos. Keeping that sweet spot protected is so important. I have a 1940' or '50's South Bend 9 that's in mostly good shape. But there's about 5 or so inches of the ways that have clear signs of abrasion. Rigidity.... Well we all know the compounding benefits of rigidity (and dampening). I was chatting with a friend who told me about people filling parts of their machines with cement/concrete. This was during WWII when home workshops in the UK and US were working towards the war effort. Another thing is torsional loading. As in, we don't want to apply any. In Navy ships, lathe stands are supported in 3 locations, as opposed to 4. This way the head-end has 2 points of contact with the floor, while the other has 1 and any unevenness in tbe floor doesn't twist the frame (and the ways).
Probably the best thing in this channel is that you actually know how to use a hacksaw and a file. A lot of channels think that you need expensive power tools to perform those simple operations. There is a particular channel that uses a heavy Dewalt portable bandsaw to cut off a single length of 1/4" threaded rod. And that person is definitely not a strong "manly-man" LOL
If you didn’t know, those angles on your carriage are called draft angles. They’re there for a casting to release from their mold so they should be expected on any unfinished casting surface
Looks great! Thanks for taking the time to film your projects. By the time you edit, must add a lot of time to machining. You do an excellent job of clearly explaining including owning up to mistakes. Thanks. My mini lathe is almost stock, I just make the odd gadget or part for repairing the myriad of things that break like household, boat and motorbike bits. The mini lathe is a handy thing to have. The lack of rigidity in the mini lathe annoys me episodically. I’ll copy some of your improvements especially around rigidity but I’ll do a simplified version of this one because it looks cool. To be honest, rust is more of a problem than wear on the ways for a dabbler like me.. I just can’t imagine setting up camera, lights and sound to record my projects. Glad you do!
I find that the plastic way covers melt when hot chips fall on them. I combined a short metal shelf on the carriage with the accordion cover. This protects the area of the cover next to the carriage while still keeping the full protection.
Hi. Just found your channel it is great to find an Aussie channel. I am looking at getting the same brand of lathe from ausee. I am watching all your videos they are great. I am looking at the c2 model. Thanks for sharing I love the mods and projects you do.
One advantage of a roughind endmill is they strain the machine less. No big deal if you are on a 2 HP Bridgeport, but a nice bonus on a mini mill I imagine.
I have used 3 in 1 a lot in the past and it works fine, even if its not really meant for this application. Its $2 a bottle and it works. What I used here was a mineral paraffin cutting oil, I just use the 3 in 1 bottle because its a convenient bottle to use and I like it.
Just make sure to regularly go out of your way to lubricate the (now out of sight) ways or this cover will inadvertently result in more damage to your lathe.
HE should have not bothered. Felt blocks on the carriage that fit tight to the bed ways is a much better solution. Put oil in the felt and it keeps the ways lubricated right at the carriage where it is needed. The felt sweeps off any metal before it can grind between the ways and the carriage.
Really neat job and great attention to detail in fairness to you. I made a simple combined retractable Y and Z cover on my Mill which is flat and very easy to keep. It uses a roller blind mechanism. Take a look if you get time, you might have an adaptation for the idea that benefits yourself and your followers. Best regards, Neil
Very nice. I have been considering a concertina way cover but found them too expensive but that seems a very reasonable price. I have just been using a bit of rubber sheet which is ok but yours looks nicer and still allows close chuck access. I dont think I would bother with a rear cover as it interferes too much with the tail stock
Reconsider...this isn't a great idea. It's in the way as often as it's not and once the accordion folds get a little stretched out they bunch upwards and run into your chuck. A much better solution is an old paint brush to sweep away metal. Then add felt blocks to your carriage that fit tightly around the bed ways. They retain oil for lubrication and they sweep away any metal before it can get under the carriage. Totally trouble free and keeps the ways lubricated exactly where you need it!
@@de-bodgery Yes that has been my experience. I currently have a piece of rubber sheet connected to the slide and it works well to keep the bulk off. I appreciate your comments and tend to agree. I have ordered one of these via Aliexpress to try it so it will be interesting but I suspect you are right :)
@@campbellmorrison8540 Go to 0:50 in this video. You can see what happens to these accordion covers after a while and what Blondihacks had to do. Just me maybe, but that's not worth the trouble. In a couple of her other videos, she takes it off or it's already removed. They do keep the ways clean, but they are also a hassle. Some felt shaped to fit the ways sweeps them clean and oils them all at the same time. ua-cam.com/video/C5g4KuMlQ2g/v-deo.html
@@campbellmorrison8540 Use magnets that are inset into the attachment points. Metal will be attracted to them, but if they are flush, that wipes away easily.
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
Ask yourself this: HOW did any of that "add rigidity"? Maybe that steel block added a little to the carriage, but I doubt it. It's already a thick slab of cast iron. It sure wasn't added mass. This entire mod added maybe 1 pound to the weight of the lathe. I'm highly skeptical any machining improvement happened at all from this mod. I like the channel, avidly watch the videos and use some of the ideas presented here, but this is pure bunk! I bet what happened is his carriage needed tuning. He took it all apart and then put it back together all set up nice and snug again. THIS was why things improved. It had nothing to do with way cover in any way.
@@de-bodgery I think its important to remember just how little mass there is in the carriage. It is a small piece of cast with a lot cut away. You can always try your self and see how it might or might not work for you. I am certain that there was in improvement, definitely an improvement in vibration dampening. I understand your skepticism, but from what I encountered it feels better. Cheers
@@artisanmakes You know your lathe better than I do by a long shot! Mine is only a little larger than yours. I can't imagine how that little added mass would make any difference. I still think you tuned out slop in the carriage when you put it all back together and that's why things are more ridgid. when was the last time you did any tuning of your gibs and carriage stays? They start developing movement on my Little Machine Shop 7500 lathe where I want to deal with it again about every 10-20 hours of use. That's not a lot of hours of use before I'm re-tweaking something. Your lathe is pretty similar to mine. I can't imagine it stays "locked in" much longer than mine does. This seems the likely source for your improved rigidity IMHO.
your videos are great, the lathe way-cover seems to be too big; when you're close to the chuck and there's dirt inside it might stand up and touch the chuck (at least on my side, my chuck is bigger than your one it seems). 9:15 something bad happened there? I glued some acrylic onto the waycover to have a rigid bar and added 2 round magnets, that works perfectly for me.
Looks great. Is it worth cutting the cover to be slightly shorter so that it isn't fully compressed when you're up against the chuck? Right now any chips that are resting on the cover will have no space as it collapses.
I'm currently rebuilding my lathe headstock, uprated gears bearings etc. I 'm definitely adding this to that process I was using fixed "catch trays" made from baking trays would you believe.... well it works but just not attractive and does not have the flexibility of travel that this provides
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
Why didn't you use your new 1.5m hacksaw to cut down the stock? But seriously, I enjoy every single one of your videos, you deserve a huge following and I'm certain that you will get it in the near future!
An old preacher friend of mine told me about using discarded gears he bolted to the back side of his chuck shaft. One a 60 tooth for minute and a big 360 flywheel for degrees. A degree wheel could be used for instead of the big flywheel on the mini lathe. I have ordered one of these. Don't know where it is in the 🌎 world, and hope it gets here soon. I do have a 13inch swing South Bend shop lathe. It's great for farm work. On tiny parts it's way too clumsy.
G'day Art, super work as usual. Hope the 'bracket' extra mass an improvement on your lathe. I was wondering if 2-4 Neo 52 magnets would hold that cover in place without any issues? Cheers, Michael 🇦🇺
Hi Mr Makes, I'm Sydney based and am keen to get into machining but am a bit space poor and don't have level access for my workshop. I maybe recall hearing in one of your videos that your workshop is at a different location to your home. If so, how did you find a space for all your tools and what kind of space is it. Thanks!
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
Some mini lathes have a headstock gearbox, but i don't think any of the sieg 7x size lathes have an oil bath in there... That would require an entirely different headstock casting...
RDMT10T3MO inserts. Its a custom holder that I made. Just use an endmill to bore out a round pocket for the insert to sit in. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003195440403.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.4ce04c4doloNNm
Nice. I hate how my 8x16's leadscrew is always covered with chips. I think if I went this route I probably would've used magnets making it easier to clean. 3D Printing brackets would probably be the quickest and cheapest "way" to go.
I guess thats the best part of DIY stuff, do it how you want to. Im personally not as huge fan of using magnets but if ti suits you that is great. Cheers
I got a good result searching for accordion bellows, in the Business and Industrial category. There are some interesting options that extend down the front and back that might improve protection for the lead screw as well as keeping even more off the bed.
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
Are you dumb or just don't pay attention? He told us he paid USD $15 for the cover, which is twice as long as he needed. He even provided a link FFS. So, please tell us what cost more - your $250 lathe or his $15 cover?
I guess thats the best part of DIY stuff, do it how you want to. Im personally not as huge fan of using magnets but if it suits you that is great. Cheers
maybe create a magnetic holer to attach and remove back cover eaisly ? I need to do the same thing for my lathe but plan to have some magnets built in so i can remove it without screwing in anything
magnets are a, no pun intended, magnet for swarf. I am not a fan of using them but other people do. You could use thumbscrews to make screwing it easier though.
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
Can you make a video about speeds and feeds- like a super simple one? I've watched a few and I am lost, I feel like you would do a much better job. Thank you for your time!
Funny when you look at a new lathe, and i would assume its not just on chinese lathes but any production lathes of modern age, that you find only the functional surfaces squared up... I have a lathe from the 1960`s, made in the Great United Kingdom of Yugoslavia and every surface is squared up, flat machined or ground and every surface on the sides that is nonfunctional is chessboard scraped for aesthetics... Someone back in the day had made what is a finished product and then took a scraper and scraped in the ``circumference`` of the lathe in a chess pattern... Had they done it to hone up the skill on unimportant surfaces or to make them pretty is not important, what is is that the lathe was obviously made by people who loved their work, and dont get me wrong, i aint spitting on chinese, God bless them, they are marvelous people and nicer than most... I am speaking of the difference in mindset and production quality that is beyond just marginal... Today you would get fired if you honed your skills on a finished product to increase its appearance as you ``would be wasting company time and would be costing the employer money by doing nonsense``... Its not where are all the good men gone, for i dont need a hero, but where has the love for the craft gone and why is greed the name of the game? She`s the same size as yours, except for the design language and the aforementioned effort put into her... No square headstock, no square tailstock, both are curved and contoured, the hand-wheels are brass with decorative relief cuts and little curved brass handles, no ball bearings, tapered rollers it is... Damn, its not just easier to modify, as you can just make fitting parts and slot them in to beef her up, she is all around better made even from back then when technology was less developed and people had less to rely on, and made in Balkan, the uncivilized place where crude peasants live, as most of the world sees Slavs... Also, the power switch is 25Amp 380Volt switch for what is essentially a 0.75KW 3phase motor... Speak of wastefulness eh? Try finding such an overrated part on any modern anything, not just machine...
I film and edit out of order. Sometimes it takes weeks to get all the footage and get around to editing. I think I filmed this 2 or 3 weeks before I did the hacksaw video
@@shotgunsam23 - I am lazy too. But like most people it is all about prioritizing . For example, if I had spare money I'd buy a lathe, before worrying about a metal bandsaw. That's simply because I have numerous ways of cutting metal (including an Oxy, Angle Grinder, etc) however I cannot do what a lathe does with any other tool, let alone by hand.
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on aliexpress but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
I always enjoy your videos. Keeping that sweet spot protected is so important. I have a 1940' or '50's South Bend 9 that's in mostly good shape. But there's about 5 or so inches of the ways that have clear signs of abrasion.
Rigidity.... Well we all know the compounding benefits of rigidity (and dampening). I was chatting with a friend who told me about people filling parts of their machines with cement/concrete. This was during WWII when home workshops in the UK and US were working towards the war effort.
Another thing is torsional loading. As in, we don't want to apply any. In Navy ships, lathe stands are supported in 3 locations, as opposed to 4. This way the head-end has 2 points of contact with the floor, while the other has 1 and any unevenness in tbe floor doesn't twist the frame (and the ways).
Probably the best thing in this channel is that you actually know how to use a hacksaw and a file. A lot of channels think that you need expensive power tools to perform those simple operations.
There is a particular channel that uses a heavy Dewalt portable bandsaw to cut off a single length of 1/4" threaded rod. And that person is definitely not a strong "manly-man" LOL
The work you get done on your little machines is so impressive and inspiring.
Thankyou
If you didn’t know, those angles on your carriage are called draft angles. They’re there for a casting to release from their mold so they should be expected on any unfinished casting surface
Yes this is correct. Had to deal with them before, especially when fixing the tailstock
Looks great! Thanks for taking the time to film your projects. By the time you edit, must add a lot of time to machining. You do an excellent job of clearly explaining including owning up to mistakes. Thanks.
My mini lathe is almost stock, I just make the odd gadget or part for repairing the myriad of things that break like household, boat and motorbike bits. The mini lathe is a handy thing to have. The lack of rigidity in the mini lathe annoys me episodically. I’ll copy some of your improvements especially around rigidity but I’ll do a simplified version of this one because it looks cool. To be honest, rust is more of a problem than wear on the ways for a dabbler like me..
I just can’t imagine setting up camera, lights and sound to record my projects. Glad you do!
Brilliant video as always, Mr. Artisan. Definitely going to have to do the same to my lathe!
I find that the plastic way covers melt when hot chips fall on them. I combined a short metal shelf on the carriage with the accordion cover. This protects the area of the cover next to the carriage while still keeping the full protection.
Hi. Just found your channel it is great to find an Aussie channel. I am looking at getting the same brand of lathe from ausee. I am watching all your videos they are great. I am looking at the c2 model. Thanks for sharing I love the mods and projects you do.
One advantage of a roughind endmill is they strain the machine less. No big deal if you are on a 2 HP Bridgeport, but a nice bonus on a mini mill I imagine.
I notice that you are using 3-in-1 oil for cutting fluid. Do you like it?
I have used 3 in 1 a lot in the past and it works fine, even if its not really meant for this application. Its $2 a bottle and it works. What I used here was a mineral paraffin cutting oil, I just use the 3 in 1 bottle because its a convenient bottle to use and I like it.
Just make sure to regularly go out of your way to lubricate the (now out of sight) ways or this cover will inadvertently result in more damage to your lathe.
HE should have not bothered. Felt blocks on the carriage that fit tight to the bed ways is a much better solution. Put oil in the felt and it keeps the ways lubricated right at the carriage where it is needed. The felt sweeps off any metal before it can grind between the ways and the carriage.
Really neat job and great attention to detail in fairness to you.
I made a simple combined retractable Y and Z cover on my Mill which is flat and very easy to keep. It uses a roller blind mechanism. Take a look if you get time, you might have an adaptation for the idea that benefits yourself and your followers.
Best regards, Neil
Very nice. I have been considering a concertina way cover but found them too expensive but that seems a very reasonable price. I have just been using a bit of rubber sheet which is ok but yours looks nicer and still allows close chuck access. I dont think I would bother with a rear cover as it interferes too much with the tail stock
Reconsider...this isn't a great idea. It's in the way as often as it's not and once the accordion folds get a little stretched out they bunch upwards and run into your chuck. A much better solution is an old paint brush to sweep away metal. Then add felt blocks to your carriage that fit tightly around the bed ways. They retain oil for lubrication and they sweep away any metal before it can get under the carriage. Totally trouble free and keeps the ways lubricated exactly where you need it!
@@de-bodgery Yes that has been my experience. I currently have a piece of rubber sheet connected to the slide and it works well to keep the bulk off. I appreciate your comments and tend to agree. I have ordered one of these via Aliexpress to try it so it will be interesting but I suspect you are right :)
@@campbellmorrison8540 Go to 0:50 in this video. You can see what happens to these accordion covers after a while and what Blondihacks had to do. Just me maybe, but that's not worth the trouble. In a couple of her other videos, she takes it off or it's already removed. They do keep the ways clean, but they are also a hassle. Some felt shaped to fit the ways sweeps them clean and oils them all at the same time.
ua-cam.com/video/C5g4KuMlQ2g/v-deo.html
@@de-bodgery I was looking at making mine clip on just for particularly messy things like cast iron.
@@campbellmorrison8540 Use magnets that are inset into the attachment points. Metal will be attracted to them, but if they are flush, that wipes away easily.
Great upgrade! Added rigidity is always a plus.
Do you have a product link?
Cheers
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
Ask yourself this: HOW did any of that "add rigidity"? Maybe that steel block added a little to the carriage, but I doubt it. It's already a thick slab of cast iron. It sure wasn't added mass. This entire mod added maybe 1 pound to the weight of the lathe. I'm highly skeptical any machining improvement happened at all from this mod. I like the channel, avidly watch the videos and use some of the ideas presented here, but this is pure bunk! I bet what happened is his carriage needed tuning. He took it all apart and then put it back together all set up nice and snug again. THIS was why things improved. It had nothing to do with way cover in any way.
@@de-bodgery I think its important to remember just how little mass there is in the carriage. It is a small piece of cast with a lot cut away. You can always try your self and see how it might or might not work for you. I am certain that there was in improvement, definitely an improvement in vibration dampening. I understand your skepticism, but from what I encountered it feels better. Cheers
@@artisanmakes You know your lathe better than I do by a long shot! Mine is only a little larger than yours. I can't imagine how that little added mass would make any difference. I still think you tuned out slop in the carriage when you put it all back together and that's why things are more ridgid. when was the last time you did any tuning of your gibs and carriage stays? They start developing movement on my Little Machine Shop 7500 lathe where I want to deal with it again about every 10-20 hours of use. That's not a lot of hours of use before I'm re-tweaking something. Your lathe is pretty similar to mine. I can't imagine it stays "locked in" much longer than mine does. This seems the likely source for your improved rigidity IMHO.
I'm currently converting a mini lathe to a dedicated toolpost / camshaft grinder so those concertina type covers will be great !
That sounds like a cool project, I would love to see that when its done.
your videos are great, the lathe way-cover seems to be too big; when you're close to the chuck and there's dirt inside it might stand up and touch the chuck (at least on my side, my chuck is bigger than your one it seems). 9:15 something bad happened there? I glued some acrylic onto the waycover to have a rigid bar and added 2 round magnets, that works perfectly for me.
Looks great. Is it worth cutting the cover to be slightly shorter so that it isn't fully compressed when you're up against the chuck? Right now any chips that are resting on the cover will have no space as it collapses.
I trimmed it down a little bit more after this so yes, it is worth doing that if needed
I'm currently rebuilding my lathe headstock, uprated gears bearings etc. I 'm definitely adding this to that process I was using fixed "catch trays" made from baking trays would you believe.... well it works but just not attractive and does not have the flexibility of travel that this provides
Hi, what keywords should I use for searching on eBay and get this accordion...?
search for "accordion way cover" on aliexpress (way cheaper than ebay)
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
i couldn't find a waycover like this anywhere in europe for that kind of price (< 20€).
Could someond provide a link please?
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
@@artisanmakes Thanks, much appreciated!
Why didn't you use your new 1.5m hacksaw to cut down the stock?
But seriously, I enjoy every single one of your videos, you deserve a huge following and I'm certain that you will get it in the near future!
Every thing I film is kinda out of order and it can take weeks to get around to editing it.
@@artisanmakes Aww I was just poking fun because I saw how... effective that thing was lol
An old preacher friend of mine told me about using discarded gears he bolted to the back side of his chuck shaft. One a 60 tooth for minute and a big 360 flywheel for degrees. A degree wheel could be used for instead of the big flywheel on the mini lathe.
I have ordered one of these. Don't know where it is in the 🌎 world, and hope it gets here soon. I do have a 13inch swing South Bend shop lathe. It's great for farm work. On tiny parts it's way too clumsy.
Good Job thank you I will be buying this for mine as well.
sweet project and clean.
The carriage blocks should be on the standard list of 7" minilathe mods. Have you considered adding strong magnets to hold the way bellow?
G'day Art, super work as usual. Hope the 'bracket' extra mass an improvement on your lathe. I was wondering if 2-4 Neo 52 magnets would hold that cover in place without any issues? Cheers, Michael 🇦🇺
Cheers. I use bolts simply because the magnets might attract swarf, but I see allot of people use magnets without too much issue.
Hi Mr Makes, I'm Sydney based and am keen to get into machining but am a bit space poor and don't have level access for my workshop. I maybe recall hearing in one of your videos that your workshop is at a different location to your home. If so, how did you find a space for all your tools and what kind of space is it. Thanks!
Why not leave a link for the way cover?
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
Because he DID leave a link... the first PINNED COMMENT.
is there a link to the item as i would buy one.
It's the FIRST PINNED COMMENT.
Well done 👍
For a minute there I thought you were going to drill into the headstock gearbox - I was waiting for the oil to come pouring out!
Maybe on a larger lathe, but no gears in this headstock
Some mini lathes have a headstock gearbox, but i don't think any of the sieg 7x size lathes have an oil bath in there... That would require an entirely different headstock casting...
Yes I've not used the smaller lathes, although I'm going to get one! I'm a qualified fitter & turner but i haven't worked in that trade for 27 years.
Hey mate thanks for sharing 🙏
Can you tell me what sort of insert you are using for fly cutter & if it’s left hand ?
RDMT10T3MO inserts. Its a custom holder that I made. Just use an endmill to bore out a round pocket for the insert to sit in. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003195440403.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.4ce04c4doloNNm
I was gonna ask if he used a left handed hammer 🤣🤣👍
Nice. I hate how my 8x16's leadscrew is always covered with chips. I think if I went this route I probably would've used magnets making it easier to clean. 3D Printing brackets would probably be the quickest and cheapest "way" to go.
I guess thats the best part of DIY stuff, do it how you want to. Im personally not as huge fan of using magnets but if ti suits you that is great. Cheers
Magnets attract swarf and are a pain to clean
(ask me how i know...:( )
@@tano1747 Yep, I am so thankful mag bases can be "turned" off for that reason.
What did you search on eBay? I’m having no luck in uk would love to do this upgrade
I just searched for "flat bellows" on the offchance and got relevant results. HTH.
@@neilbarnwell thanks so much!
I got a good result searching for accordion bellows, in the Business and Industrial category. There are some interesting options that extend down the front and back that might improve protection for the lead screw as well as keeping even more off the bed.
search for "accordion way cover" on aliexpress (way cheaper than ebay)
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
Nice job!
I like the idea but have you seen the price. Its more than what i picked up my 1957 hurcus lathe. I only paid $250 for it. Works great.
Are you dumb or just don't pay attention? He told us he paid USD $15 for the cover, which is twice as long as he needed. He even provided a link FFS.
So, please tell us what cost more - your $250 lathe or his $15 cover?
For next upgrade fill the space beneath the ways with concrete or epoxy with gravel - more mass, more rigidity
specifically granite gravel ~3-5mm, though I've seen a lot of refferences to just bolting down to something heavy makes a significant difference too.
It is definitely something to consider, I have heard that it can work wonders in adding rigidity
I would have super glued some magnets to the covers ends .......😁😁😁👍
I guess thats the best part of DIY stuff, do it how you want to. Im personally not as huge fan of using magnets but if it suits you that is great. Cheers
I've tried magnets on mine and the swarf they attract is so hard to remove.
maybe create a magnetic holer to attach and remove back cover eaisly ?
I need to do the same thing for my lathe but plan to have some magnets built in so i can remove it without screwing in anything
magnets are a, no pun intended, magnet for swarf. I am not a fan of using them but other people do. You could use thumbscrews to make screwing it easier though.
Nice!
You should film a video about coolant system for leathe
I certainly will. I still have a bit left to film and then script and edit. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Oh im so excited thanks!
Why not use a bandsaw? Could be a cheap portable one but it will be much faster and better finish
what do you call the cover
search for "accordion way cover" on aliexpress (way cheaper than ebay)
This is the link I Used, there are cheaper ones on ali express but at the time none stocked 140mm wide way covers. www.ebay.com.au/itm/123970270040?var=424768881409
@@_Jester_ thank you
Alternatively you can use a magnetron magnetics inside a plastic bag for clean the ways cover 😀
In a word your work is GASH
l bought the motor u said, got base lazer cut, bought pulley.
Can you make a video about speeds and feeds- like a super simple one? I've watched a few and I am lost, I feel like you would do a much better job. Thank you for your time!
Funny when you look at a new lathe, and i would assume its not just on chinese lathes but any production lathes of modern age, that you find only the functional surfaces squared up... I have a lathe from the 1960`s, made in the Great United Kingdom of Yugoslavia and every surface is squared up, flat machined or ground and every surface on the sides that is nonfunctional is chessboard scraped for aesthetics... Someone back in the day had made what is a finished product and then took a scraper and scraped in the ``circumference`` of the lathe in a chess pattern... Had they done it to hone up the skill on unimportant surfaces or to make them pretty is not important, what is is that the lathe was obviously made by people who loved their work, and dont get me wrong, i aint spitting on chinese, God bless them, they are marvelous people and nicer than most... I am speaking of the difference in mindset and production quality that is beyond just marginal... Today you would get fired if you honed your skills on a finished product to increase its appearance as you ``would be wasting company time and would be costing the employer money by doing nonsense``... Its not where are all the good men gone, for i dont need a hero, but where has the love for the craft gone and why is greed the name of the game? She`s the same size as yours, except for the design language and the aforementioned effort put into her... No square headstock, no square tailstock, both are curved and contoured, the hand-wheels are brass with decorative relief cuts and little curved brass handles, no ball bearings, tapered rollers it is... Damn, its not just easier to modify, as you can just make fitting parts and slot them in to beef her up, she is all around better made even from back then when technology was less developed and people had less to rely on, and made in Balkan, the uncivilized place where crude peasants live, as most of the world sees Slavs... Also, the power switch is 25Amp 380Volt switch for what is essentially a 0.75KW 3phase motor... Speak of wastefulness eh? Try finding such an overrated part on any modern anything, not just machine...
I've considered it, but if i did I would probably be lazy and just use 4 blobs of silastic to hold 'er on!
If it works it works :)
That cut off would have gone better if you used your huge saw, just saying
I film and edit out of order. Sometimes it takes weeks to get all the footage and get around to editing. I think I filmed this 2 or 3 weeks before I did the hacksaw video
@@artisanmakes I was only kidding anyway! Love your videos
i got tired just by watching you use a hack saw to cut that solid bar...
it's not very easy to clean.
It's as easy as any way cover to clean
Bro you need a saw, that or an angle grinder
dont cut stock by hand!
Nothing really wrong with it, he just doesn’t have enough room for a band saw.
Why, are you too weak to use a hand tool?
@@johncoops6897 personally I’m just to lazy
@@shotgunsam23 - I am lazy too. But like most people it is all about prioritizing .
For example, if I had spare money I'd buy a lathe, before worrying about a metal bandsaw. That's simply because I have numerous ways of cutting metal (including an Oxy, Angle Grinder, etc) however I cannot do what a lathe does with any other tool, let alone by hand.