10 More Mini Lathe Mods And Upgrades - 2022
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- Опубліковано 18 чер 2024
- G'day everyone,
last year I made a video where I detailed all of the upgrades that I had made to the mini lathe. It has since been a year and I have made many new upgrades, some which I have shown here before, and some that I have not. Like the last video, not every upgrade will suit everyone, so it is best to pick and choose which upgrades would best suit you and your lathe. Cheers.
#minilathe #lathe #machining
Timestamps
0:00 - Introduction
0:50 - Way Cover
2:19 - Headstock Spacer Upgrade (NEW)
5:12 - Headstock Rigidity Brace
6:28 - Button Oilers For The Tailstock And Leadscrew Bushings
7:04 - Tailstock Fine Feed Adjuster
8:06 - Extra Module 1 Gears to Cut Imperial Threads On A Metric Lathe
9:16 - Spindle Lock
9:53 - Tailstock DRO (NEW)
12:26 - Half Dead Centre
13:47 - Thrust Bearing On The QCTP
Links To Videos
Machining With Joe's Video with the DRO ( • Mini Lathe Tailstock DRO )
Tailstock Fine Feed ( • Lathe Tailstock Fine F... )
Headstock Rigidity Upgrade ( • Mini Lathe Headstock R... )
Button Oiler and Thrust Bearing ( • Lathe | New Mods, Main... )
Cut Imperial Threads ( • Cutting Imperial Threa... )
Way Cover ( • Lathe Way And Leadscre... )
Spindle Lock ( • Mini Lathe Spindle Loc... )
Half Dead Centre ( • Making A Half Dead Cen... )
Mini Lathe - Sieg C3 7x14 Mini Metal Lathe
Milling Machine - Sieg X2.7l - Наука та технологія
Soon it’ll the ultimate small lathe
nahhh the chinese base just holds it back too much, some small euro /us lathes are waaay better, but he for sure makes the best of it
The use of digital calipers as the DRO is actually brilliant.
As for rigidity upgrade - I've seen someone fill the cavity with concrete. Unlike epoxy cement is pretty cheap.
Neat. I have wondered at times about cement to fill voids in these machines to dampen vibrations. it is definite a rabbit hole of old forum pages.
I used hydraulic cement on mini mill column, it doesn't shrink like ordinary cement (not sure if it expands slightly when cured?)
It’s amazing how many cheap and easy upgrades improve the lathe and your experience with it, goes to show you don’t always have to start with the most expensive machine, just get what you can afford and slowly chip away at upgrading it as skill and money allow 👍 cheers for sharing.
Thanks for sharing all that! Awesome insights.
Thanks for all your content and inspiration! After watching your videos I took the plunge and got myself a vintage lathe, and since then I've managed to go as far as making a rotary broach and steady rest all of my own; I'd have never imagined doing this myself before. It's really inspirational to see your work.
Excellent! Congrats!
Awesome to hear. I'll have to tackle the steady rest project too one of these days :)
Nice job on sharing these upgrades. I have a couple of those mini-lathes that I used daily in my business. I've used some of your ideas and enjoyed the results. Keep up the great work with your excellent content.
Glad to hear that they have worked out well for you. Cheers
You can cut off the depth gauge from the DRO calliper as well since you dont need it .
Oh yeah of course 😅
You don't need to cut it as the back cover is screwed on. You do need to remove the sticker on the back cover to get to screws.
Thank you your upgrades have been an inspiration to get the most out of my lathe.
One nice upgrade would be to get a 6374 brushless DC motor with hall effect sensors and a vesc ESC so u can drive it in foc mode and get insanely high torque at low speeds, plus u can get really nice motor feedback and last, speed control
Also u will need a 50A 24V PSU (i trust meanwell but any other brand might do it).
Also, another tip for those who might have a 3d printer, although plastic 3d printed gears aren't that strong, they can still hold up a lot of torque, so if u have a 3d printer u can print your own gears and if u break one, it's just a matter of printing it again (i recommend petg, nylon, PC, abs PC blend, and pla will work pretty well
Great video and ideas. I made a travelling way cover, a sheet of aluminium attached to the carriage and long enough to catch swarf. An advantage is that you can easily access the way for cleaning.
Wow!This guy is fantastic!
Great upgrades, great video. One thing you still need to upgrade, sawing material.
insane depth of cut! all of the upgrades are for real :)
It’s the lathe of Theseus!
It is good that you give credit where due!!!
Thanks, i now enjoy my lathe operation more
To make longitudinal manual feed more smooth I put a hand wheel on the right end of the lead screw. I then use the carriage hand wheel for quick positioning, and then use the half nut and lead screw hand wheel for turning.
Hey dude another awesome upgrade video. Really like the concept behind replacing the plastic spacer behind pre load nut. I will have to check my lathe to see if it is the same setup as I can’t remember. And thanks for the channel name drop 😁
Cheers, credit where credit is due. Can't wait for your workshop.to. be finished. Can't wait for more content. I miss that little Warco lathe.
@@artisanmakes yeah you and me both. However I’m a couple of videos off from being able to show off the new workshop in all its glory. Then the content will flow again. And I have some interesting ideas I need to create :)
Great vid 🙂
Nice mods!
Really enjoying your cinematography lately. Your newer footage is getting a really crisp "clickspring" kind of look. 🥇👍
Cheers mate, that'll be the new lighting set up
Great mods
Those are some very good upgrades! 👍👍
I need to do one or two of those on my own lathe now. 😊
Cheers man, I'd love to see them. It was seeing your mini lathe upgrades that introduced me to your channel
@@artisanmakes Awesome! I found yours because UA-cam randomly recommended it a while ago. 😉
Great video. You need a metal bandsaw for your shop! 🙂
Half dead center. Nice.
When you need to bring it back to life to get more use out of it but you only have half the juice needed
I'm about to do the headstock support bracket similar to yours. I have the LMS 5100 so the brushless motor may provide more room than other models. However the 1"x2" block of steel will be turned 90° relative to yours and I will be using M8 cap screws on top of the bed and M8 Flat Head Socket Cap Countersunk screws on the bottom of the lathe so that it can sit flush on a workbench without having to drill more holes into a worktable.
Actually Im unable to bolt my minimill and minilathe down right now so I'm bolting the LMS 5100 to 4"x8"x5/8 plates with antiskid rubber epoxied to the bottom, and similar for the LMS 3990, but using 3.25"x12"x7/8 plates for it instead.
Appreciate the content! Thoroughly enjoy watching you, We Can Do That Better, and Joe π
Awesome, hope the upgrade works well for you
I do like that tailstock DRO! That's a very cheap and affordable solution without having to do any special wiring!
Haven't had it for long but so far I am really digging it. Should have been something that did a long time ago :)
Works for the cross and main slideways as well I used a couple of cheap plastic ones first to prototype.
...and DROs can be expen$ive!
I did the same with a set of cheap digital calipers but as the on/off switch only turns the display on and off I also added a pair of wires, AA battery holder and a 'main power switch' so I don't need to swap out the button cell every month.
I got so fed up with changing batteries I bought a dial caliper for 'everyday' use and didn't touch the LCD one for a few years, the internal battery contacts had 'rotted' so it wasn't a big deal to dismantle and solder in wires
I like those upgrades especially the Dro excellent when you first showed it I thought, that's a cut down calliper brilliant spot of lateral thinking
A week or so back myfordboy made a automatic carriage advance for his mini Lathe it is well worth checking out
About a year ago I saw several UA-cams about
Mini Lathe
BERNARDO PROFI 550 WQV
MANCHINEN - AUSTRIA
and the 750 version
They look like a quality platform to start with but unfortunately I imagine the shipping costs here to Western Australia would almost double the price.
I would be interested in your comments on them as a starting lathe if you have time please.
Love the videos and enjoy each one you do it is impressive what a bit of thought can accomplish on mini machines in tight spaces.
Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
That's the joy of living in the quiet zone.
How's that for timing; I was just working up a design for a tailstock chuck and adapter.
I think the next best investment would be a band saw, how much time do you spend sawing metal by hand?
When are you going to get a powered port a band saw to do ur steel cutting. I bought a used unit for 50 dollars and it was well.worth it
Hey, may I ask what blades are you using with your lathe? Can you mention ? Thanks
*Me with an angle grinder and harbor freight welder* : ah yes I’ll add this to my list of upgrades and projects for my lathe
Edit: 5 months later I’m back at this video because I’m buying a mini lathe and I’m already dreaming of upgrades.
very nice video as always
on my upgrade-wishlist: real 2-Axis Lathe DRO !!!
mayby TouchDRO with arduino or old tablet ...
but please not as expensive as Clough42 did with DRO Pros EL400 kit
I have thought about doing a DRO upgrade for the lathe one of these days. If I do it will definitely be affordable :)
👍👍
3:30 if the spacer was made from plastic is it supposed to be sacrificial? Would a non ferrous metal be better suited although it would eventually wear down?
"I'm sure aluminum would suffice, but if your lathe can do it I'd recommend using steel" yeah man! That's what I'm talking about!! 😄
Hallo welches Material nehmen Sie für den späneschutz?
Artisan, i was thinking of bolting mine down the table of a zx45 mill for some 4 axis fine spline cutting, sounds ok?
I guess you could make that set up work if you can find a way to index the spindle. That type of set up is not too different to a set up I did a while back, I mounted my lathe on the mill table. If it is all you have and can get it to work, for sure do it, but I'm sure doing it with a dividing head would be best.
👍
Do you have something against power saws😄
I like some CRAFT RIGHT products ...even i killed a vernier caliper to make a inverted digital height gauge for rail industry
Per the extra change gears: if you happen to have a 3D printer, that's a fairly hassle free way to produce them, if you don't mind the gears being made out of plastic.
How well do the printed gears hold up?
I guess it probably doesn't matter too much, as printing new ones is probably pretty quick/easy (compared to ordering a metal gear).
If you can keep them cool and avoid shock loads they are ok. Grease keeps them cool and then just be gentle.
@@rcjbvermilion Something worth keeping in mind is that the gears that come with it are acetal. Printed gears perform reletively similar, and are easily replacable.
I guess until I would try it that plastic spindle spacer does not seem like it would affect the cut. Since it is in compression is it really changing shape?
It definitely makes a difference. I’m not the only one who has commented of the spindle spacer. Cheers
The gear stuff ... I couldn't stand changing and calculating the gears.
I'm threading on my lathe but I'm using LinuxCNC it's just entering the numbers and it's fine.
whow the plastic stuff I did not know that I will replace that tomorrow too...
I think that those bunnings calipers are actually really good. Atleast mine are.
They are not too bad, although I may have gotten lucky because I know some people don't like them. Cheers
could you make a contraption that uses the rotation of the lathe to be converted into suction and make a chip hoover that's part of the lathe and just works when you use it.?
You could, but it'd be a silly and useless gadget. A standard shop vac would provide about 3 million times more suction...
What do you use in that spray bottle for coolant while milling?
It is a 10% mix of semi synthetic cutting oil and water in a spray bottle. The stuff I use is called XDP-2000
How does the tailstock centering screw work?
I made a video on it a while back, but it is essentially a captive leadscrew. I drilled and tapped a thread into the base of the tailstock and as I turn the leadscrew it pulls the tailstock inwards or outwards. No different to the leadscrew on the cross slide. ua-cam.com/video/TeFzxtl1rbE/v-deo.html
What I really want to know is where did you buy those button Oilers? Can't find them up here in Canada
I bought mine on aliexpress
EXCELLENT - just found brass Button Oilers on Aliexpress. Here's the Australian Dollar prices for 20 pcs, including shipping:
6mm $3.69 - 8mm $3.96 - 10mm $4.07 - 12mm $4.37 - 16mm $6.79
It seems like many people struggle with mill scale on steel..even though a simple Vinegar bath will completely clean off all mill scale in 12 to 24 hrs..a simple soak and light scrubbing with a scotchbrite or some other scrubbing pad will completely remove mill scale easily..I'd recommend a Vinegar bath for any steel material to remove mill scale the day before to save on tool life and mess associated with mill scale..
You can but i just haven't gotten into the habit of doing it. Cheers
Lots of good upgrades. I will have to do a few of them on my mini lathe. Maybe even do a video on my channel. Thanks for sharing. @GlennNowonUA-cam
Thích và đăng ký
Another nice vid, dood. Have u ever considered an electronic leadscrew? Automatic metric and imperial threading along with slower power feed sound pretty nice. I've seen your CNC dividing head; I'm sure you can figure something like that out. Maybe Clough42 has some wisdom on the matter. Cheers
I have considered it, but it is not too high on my list of upgrades at the moment, simply because I don't use the leadscrew for thread cutting all that often. I might only use it once or twice every month. If I do end up thread cutting more often I will for sure end up adding one.
Machinery house. Magnetic swarf remover. Gamechanger for steel swarf on lathes and mills
Hey mate, what's the total rough cost of the lathe so far? I'm looking to buy and yes the mini lathes are cheaper up front. But if you spend another $1000 I could get a bigger lathe and not have Tk worry about half these upgrades. Realistically which option would you recommend in terms of bang for buck?
Get a bigger better lathe mate, These take ages to get working well, relatively speaking. Unless you have time and determination just get a better quality unit, in my opinion that's the most sensible thing.
@@tylerduncan8687 yeah, it's just for a hobby lathe, I'm doing my mechanical engineering course so wouldn't mind having one👌
As the other commenter suggested, try to get a bigger lathe if you can, it will for sure be better out of the gate than an import. In terms of money spent, id wager that I've only spend maybe $300 or so upgrading this lathe if you don't include the motor upgrade. I have of course spent quite a lot of time doing those upgrades but of course that is spread out over the course of the 3 1/2 years that I have owned this machine.
@@artisanmakes yeah okay, the idea of starting with a simple machine with limitations and then upgrading it myself to improve its performance is appealing to me but yeah at the same time basically everything Id make is more than likely going to be steel. Cheers for replying mate👍
I think the next upgrade you should make to your lathe is buying a bandsaw, haha!
When I cut stock myself, "oh well the hacksaw makes for a good workout." Later that day I find myself looking at bandsaws once again... :)
He already said he's not interested in that. Sometimes a hacksaw is just good enough for what you need/how big your workshop is.
There are MANY things that a small machine shop needs before wasting money on a metal bandsaw.
It's as if some people have lost the ability to do simple things that humans CAN do very well. Hitting, lifting, thinking, sawing, stuff like that.
Bought a mini lathe and I would like to replace all the plastic gears that came with with it any suggestions pls??
You can find change gear kits online for your lathe, places such as ebay.
My Vevor l7x14 lathe arrived while this video and I was pleased to see that it already has a lot of the upgrades you've done, including the button oilers. What kind of oil do you recommend using to oil the lathe?
They make proper oil called way oil for these machines, but typically way oil is sold in large quantities and is not available everywhere. A common substitute is to use an iso 68 hydraulic oil which on a mini lathe will work just fine
@@artisanmakes I'll have to see if I can get some but an online search indicates it won't be easy to find near here. I wonder if I could use 80-90 hypoid gear oil until I find a source for ISO 68?
@@SidecarBob Transmission oil will do fine pick that up anywhere.
What do u think about a Logan 10 lathe
I have not used one of them so I can't offer too much insight but from what I have read about them, they seem to be a pretty solid used machine, as long as you don't pay too much for one :)
@@artisanmakes I'm paying 1k for a 30 inch by 10 inch one (do u have Instagram or something?)
Most larger lathes use wipers to keep the ways clear of dust, dibris, and chips. While this isn't a 1-shot solution to routine cleaning and maintaining your ways, it does help with every day wear and tear.
I feel ways wipers are better solution for several reasons:
a) Less materials required to create -- A simple piece of sheet metal, and a bit of felt shaped to fit the profile geometry of the ways, fixed to the carriage on both sides is all that is required to keep debris out.
b) wipers act as a sort of "squigee" and thus, aid in evenly distributing ways oil
c) Because the wipers are flat, and thin, the amount of travel loss is negligible, they simply don't get in the way (Even more so, if the wipers are integrated into saddle. (a quick google can show you several examples)
These mini lathes are already fitted with way wipers from the factory. That's why one of the best upgrades is to ALSO fit a way cover. That way (pun) the wipers can keep doing what you describe, whilst the cover stops all the abrasive sh!t getting in there in the first place.
@@johncoops6897 To be fair the factory wipers need improvement and felt eventually build up a gritty content.
Another upgrade would be an ELS
please explain use of dead verse live center
Well a dead centre is just a solid piece of metal that goes in the tailstock. To use it as a centre you need to use grease to lubricate the part as it turns. A live centre has a ball bearing so you don't need to use grease, hence why I always use a live centre. I'm sure that there are reasons why you might want to use a dead centre, maybe for precise tailstock support, but from what I have seen in various workshops and online, live centres are almost universally used.
Now make new brass gibs to give the compound and cross slides more rigudity.
Only had to remove the sharp corners off mine so they bedded properly, in fact a total rebuilt improving fit all over.
or for better cosmetics maybe a bigger tailstock ring and sink the rule into it then bolt...I've the perfect candidate a harbor freight abortion with really wide 5" jaws that might work in woodshop, but very sloppy with loads of flex and play, can't believe they sold it
Small large is very useful for urgent meeds
Where is the location of that machine sir
On the work bench.
Eveything was fine until 3:25... then... ARRRRGGGGGHHHHH! The hacksaw!
Also if you're that guy, the ratio between 16 TPI and 1.5 pitch is _very_ close to 189:200.
MMMMM not that close 0.15875mm
stop cutting stock by hand!
If it works who cares 🤷🏻♂️
You have to stop making upgrade videos, At this rate I can't keep up! :)
Dude, get a proper powered hacksaw. Can't tell you how many times I've skipped forward to get past the hand sawing montage. It might have been amusing the first 59 times, but now it's just boring.
Don't worry... he skips past all the moronic comments about powered saws. It might have been amusing the first 59 times, but now it's just BORING.
@@johncoops6897 UA-cam is like an old TV set. If you don't like the channel you can change to another!
@@bigmotter001 - I know. I block dozens every single day!
This Channel is great, and I couldn't care less how he cuts metal. It's annoying that people repeatedly hassling him about the hacksaw. He even edits so only a few seconds are shown at the start and finish of the cut (Which he NEVER completes, so he can snap the last bit off and leave a burr).