Man they are great even better now than a few years ago with all the web sties you can get 1000's of free 3D files for about anything. I just printed a new gas cap for my lawnmower who would have thought LOL...
ah the short memories i had with it, eventually returned it for flashforge 4 pro, then returned that due to a simple stuck filament, and got another, then returned it again after watching many videos about 3d printers knowing i will regret not doing the following that i have done, i got a bambu labs x1c with 2 ams and now added to the printer it's midget cousin a1 mini.
I’ve thought about getting a 3D printer for making new parts whenever things around the house, garage, or yard break. But I don’t really have the time or wherewithal anymore for learning new technologies, and figured this might be out of my wheelhouse. Your video makes it a little less intimidating. But I’m wondering about the range of available materials… like resistance to breakage. Or like in a recent case where a Beaver Club member’s relative was making wind noise inserts for the outside moisture drains at the bottom of motorhome windows, to replace no-longer-made originals lost over time. All was great until we made him aware there were left and right side ones, not identical front to back, and he also had used a material that was susceptible to UV light, so his would deteriorate quickly in actual use on the outside of coaches. Somehow a UV resistant component to the material could be added, I guess. But I wouldn’t be chemist enough to know how to do that. Is there a large range of manufactured fiber materials this unit can use? Cost range? How would one precisely copy a broken part into the computer program, correct for the break, and get a dimensionally exact copy?
They offer UV-resistant filament, along with a variety of filament types tailored for strength, flexibility, and more. While I primarily use PLA, which is the standard filament and quite robust, I'm curious about its UV resistance. It's remarkable how much printers have advanced; my initial setup took hours, whereas now, as you witnessed in the video, it's a mere 15 minutes before I'm printing precise parts effortlessly. Regarding replacement parts, I haven't delved into that yet. For simpler components, I rely on an online 3D rendering program, which provides basic shapes that can be scaled and assembled to create covers, caps, lids, and the like. However, reproducing a specific part requires more expertise than I currently possess. Personally, I often turn to platforms like Thingiverse, where thousands of pre-rendered items are available for download and printing. It's a treasure trove of ready-made solutions. For instance, my printer couldn't accommodate large spools, but thanks to Thingiverse, I found a complete extension cover designed by someone else. A quick download, and now I can use larger spools effortlessly. Stay tuned for an upcoming video detailing this project. Moreover, beyond practicality, there's a sheer joy in crafting. Don't hesitate to explore 3D printing; it's more accessible than ever, and I'm discovering and enjoying its possibilities with every print.
After submitting my comment I was checking out the printer on Amazon, and stumbled across scanners that are used for capturing 3D images into printer software. Handheld, they seem easy enough to use, but can be as or more expensive than the printer.
Been thinking about purchasing a 3D printer or a resin printer for making detail parts for ho scale trains (trash cans, mailboxes etc.) this one looks to be an easy one to get started with Thanks for sharing 👍🤠👍
Yes I had a friend tried the resin and he went back to filament he said the resin is just to messy and requires a lot more steps. I really like this printer as you saw supper easy to setup and use. BTW I make all my Scale train stuff on them now, they make great scale parts.
Yes it shouldn't be unlevel I just did a that simple calibrate I showed on video and went to printing. There is a full calibrate you can do but if it's new I am not sure why you would have to do it.
careful when cleaning that bed, i used glass cleaner and i suspect that the liquid dripped underneath and ruined the machine just before the amazon warranty expires, i was happy because i had an excuse to return it. While owning it i was dreading the fact that it's so much more expensive to change that unremovable glass bed, looking at different printers beds costing almost 10 times less. 4 pro has auto calibration ( it's a lie) it will only take notice of the first point so you gotta do the expert mode to achieve what similar in price more modern printers achieve automatically but i will avoid shilling for the printers i use right now you must make the informed decision of what's the best for you and your budget.
@nemaproblema6879 You must have had a different printer. Mine does not have a glass bed it's metal with a removable coated build sheet that comes in and out to free your build. So far, I am really happy with the printer. The only con was the limited filament spools you could use, which was fixed with the cabinet extension.
@@TheElectronMansorry i was telling the guy with the 3 pro. i had the 3 and 4 pro for almost 1 month each from amazon but returned them, you have the 3 normal with the removable plate it's a better model than 3 pro because of that, since on 3 pro you can't remove the plate i killed it while cleaning it with a glass cleaner probably it leaked underneath, it gave me an error to change the motherboard. Plus the plate looked terrible after my noobish attempts to clean it. ofc now i would never use glass cleaner and a removable plate is a must for easy clean under running water
Oh ok that makes sense I didn't catch the part about it being a different model you were talking about. Yeah mine is easy to just pull the build plate off and clean. I use glue stick and it's water soluble so it cleans up real easy@@nemaproblema6879
This has been an area I’ve been meaning to explore. Might just have to pick one of those printers up I think. Good video.
Man they are great even better now than a few years ago with all the web sties you can get 1000's of free 3D files for about anything. I just printed a new gas cap for my lawnmower who would have thought LOL...
ah the short memories i had with it, eventually returned it for flashforge 4 pro, then returned that due to a simple stuck filament, and got another, then returned it again after watching many videos about 3d printers knowing i will regret not doing the following that i have done, i got a bambu labs x1c with 2 ams and now added to the printer it's midget cousin a1 mini.
Thanks for the video it looks great 👍
That machine looks very cool.
Thanks having fun with it. I'm getting rid of all the sheet rock screws I use has hangers and making nice hooks for stuff now :)
I’ve thought about getting a 3D printer for making new parts whenever things around the house, garage, or yard break. But I don’t really have the time or wherewithal anymore for learning new technologies, and figured this might be out of my wheelhouse. Your video makes it a little less intimidating.
But I’m wondering about the range of available materials… like resistance to breakage. Or like in a recent case where a Beaver Club member’s relative was making wind noise inserts for the outside moisture drains at the bottom of motorhome windows, to replace no-longer-made originals lost over time. All was great until we made him aware there were left and right side ones, not identical front to back, and he also had used a material that was susceptible to UV light, so his would deteriorate quickly in actual use on the outside of coaches.
Somehow a UV resistant component to the material could be added, I guess. But I wouldn’t be chemist enough to know how to do that. Is there a large range of manufactured fiber materials this unit can use? Cost range? How would one precisely copy a broken part into the computer program, correct for the break, and get a dimensionally exact copy?
They offer UV-resistant filament, along with a variety of filament types tailored for strength, flexibility, and more. While I primarily use PLA, which is the standard filament and quite robust, I'm curious about its UV resistance. It's remarkable how much printers have advanced; my initial setup took hours, whereas now, as you witnessed in the video, it's a mere 15 minutes before I'm printing precise parts effortlessly.
Regarding replacement parts, I haven't delved into that yet. For simpler components, I rely on an online 3D rendering program, which provides basic shapes that can be scaled and assembled to create covers, caps, lids, and the like. However, reproducing a specific part requires more expertise than I currently possess. Personally, I often turn to platforms like Thingiverse, where thousands of pre-rendered items are available for download and printing. It's a treasure trove of ready-made solutions. For instance, my printer couldn't accommodate large spools, but thanks to Thingiverse, I found a complete extension cover designed by someone else. A quick download, and now I can use larger spools effortlessly. Stay tuned for an upcoming video detailing this project.
Moreover, beyond practicality, there's a sheer joy in crafting. Don't hesitate to explore 3D printing; it's more accessible than ever, and I'm discovering and enjoying its possibilities with every print.
After submitting my comment I was checking out the printer on Amazon, and stumbled across scanners that are used for capturing 3D images into printer software. Handheld, they seem easy enough to use, but can be as or more expensive than the printer.
Interesting I will have to check that out @@hafcanadiana318
Been thinking about purchasing a 3D printer or a resin printer for making detail parts for ho scale trains (trash cans, mailboxes etc.) this one looks to be an easy one to get started with
Thanks for sharing 👍🤠👍
Yes I had a friend tried the resin and he went back to filament he said the resin is just to messy and requires a lot more steps. I really like this printer as you saw supper easy to setup and use. BTW I make all my Scale train stuff on them now, they make great scale parts.
Are you using the "Auto-Calibrate" Thing?
I just got my Adventurer 3 Pro, and the bed is VERY uneven.
Yes it shouldn't be unlevel I just did a that simple calibrate I showed on video and went to printing. There is a full calibrate you can do but if it's new I am not sure why you would have to do it.
careful when cleaning that bed, i used glass cleaner and i suspect that the liquid dripped underneath and ruined the machine just before the amazon warranty expires, i was happy because i had an excuse to return it. While owning it i was dreading the fact that it's so much more expensive to change that unremovable glass bed, looking at different printers beds costing almost 10 times less. 4 pro has auto calibration ( it's a lie) it will only take notice of the first point so you gotta do the expert mode to achieve what similar in price more modern printers achieve automatically but i will avoid shilling for the printers i use right now you must make the informed decision of what's the best for you and your budget.
@nemaproblema6879 You must have had a different printer. Mine does not have a glass bed it's metal with a removable coated build sheet that comes in and out to free your build. So far, I am really happy with the printer. The only con was the limited filament spools you could use, which was fixed with the cabinet extension.
@@TheElectronMansorry i was telling the guy with the 3 pro. i had the 3 and 4 pro for almost 1 month each from amazon but returned them, you have the 3 normal with the removable plate it's a better model than 3 pro because of that, since on 3 pro you can't remove the plate i killed it while cleaning it with a glass cleaner probably it leaked underneath, it gave me an error to change the motherboard. Plus the plate looked terrible after my noobish attempts to clean it. ofc now i would never use glass cleaner and a removable plate is a must for easy clean under running water
Oh ok that makes sense I didn't catch the part about it being a different model you were talking about. Yeah mine is easy to just pull the build plate off and clean. I use glue stick and it's water soluble so it cleans up real easy@@nemaproblema6879