@@D3adCy11nd3r Yeah definitely think it just used for quick glances and internal leaks in side the car to look at fins on rads etc and pressure tester don't work of it a off pressure leak.
It's mainly for racing guys because you can't run antifreeze at the track. It lubricates, prevents rust, and raises the boiling temperature of water. It works well when your at the thermal limits of the radiator. If your not at the limit of the radiator to dissipate heat then you really won't see any improvements.
@@1987FX16 air doesn't block a radiator. It gets pushed through in seconds. Same in a PC. If you get air in your loop, ramp pump speed up and it comes through extremely fast. If your car radiator is blocked, it isn't air...ever...at all.
@@lunchie80 in cars you don't deal with such limited CFM as a PC, plus you have an engine compartment so most of the air around is hot, hence if you don't have a cold air port or access to cold air, you are literally passing hot air in the radiator. hence why car enthusiasm people who mods their engine will often port a cold air intake to gain power. (a pipe leading to the front so the car don't pull in hot air in the engine, so naturally a radiator also benefit from outside air instead of the pocket of preheated hot air in the hood.)
This stuff absolutely works in vehicles. I've used it for years in cars and trucks. First time was an old loaded down tow vehicle on a hot summer. It was just starting to boil over on hills. Stopped at a garage. They recommend Water Wetter. It worked. I got a 10-15 °f temp reduction. Just enough to make the trip with no boil overs. Used it ever since. One other benefit, if you live in a cold climate, your heater core gets more efficient too so better cabin heating.
Ah, sorry, I should have been clearer. I saw that as well on the bottle, but what was listed as 50/50 mixture or 1:1 ratio of this fluid and water. That’s the blend I’d like to have seen. Sorry, I didn’t realize that was also a product brand name in the USA.
so I use the stuff in my liquid coolant loop years ago when I was running liquid cooling and I noticed that it did progressively better up to around about 30-70 water with mostly water. and when discussing this with someone who runs this stuff in dragsters they told me that the way it works is by primarily reducing the water tension. he also claimed it is also supposed to increase thermal conductivity of water however this only works if your coolant is primarily water preferably distilled. That is why I start to see a decrease in performance after the 30% mark. But if you are going to run this in your system it will work just be mindful that it will stain any soft plastics or rubbers it won't destroy them but it's protective elements will die them pink.
I remember in the 90s when it first came out we all thought it was a joke. We all gave it a try and it made such a huge improvement to cooling our race engine.
I first heard of it when I was 16 working with my neighbor at the local short track. I thought.. "WTF?" Turns out it works well for racing applications
I've used this in my motorcycle's radiator. It's a surfactant, reducing the surface tension of the liquid, prob down at the molecular level so it has more contact with the surface of the motor's water channels, supposedly increasing conductivity. As a result, the coolant entering the radiator should be reading at a HIGHER temperature, because more heat is supposed to be transferred into it (either from the motor, or in this case, the CPU heat sink). It's supposed to be taking heat away from the heatsink.
something like 10 or 15 years ago, perhaps it was even 20 years ago by now, a lot of people were debating adding Water Wetter to their loop and what you could expect from using it. Some claimed it made it improved the cooling, some claimed it stopped galvanic corrosion and some said it kept your loop from turning into a closed ecosystem experiment. At the same time there were two other camps, one of whom preached that the only liquid that should ever be put in a cooling loop was pure distilled water with no additives while the other looked at car engines and added glycol to the water in their loop. We know that running pure water tends to make the loop into a biological hazard if you just let it run without bothering to empty, flush and refill the loop regularly. Anti freeze used in engine coolant is designed to prevent the cooling system from turning into something the CDC might be interested in and to prevent galvanic corrosion as it's quite common to have several dissimilar metals in the cooling loop of an engine. Sounds like something we might want to try in a computer cooling loop right? Now back then there really wan't much in the way of custom computer cooling liquids or additives so turning to the car market was kind of an easy way to fix this. With all the specialized cooling liquids available now it would be interesting to see some long term testing of different liquids and additives. How do they stack up when new, and which ones grows the funkiest stuff in the loop when it's been used for a couple of months. And is the antifreeze or water wetter any better or worse than what the PC water cooling companies try to sell you.
Just an FYI water wetter is the same stuff used in trains. Water wetter is just a brand name. 🚆 are serious business, if it didn't work I doubt they would have used it. Also I was that guy running 50/50. I still would if I ever built another loop.
@@bradley3549 The more I think about it I come to agree that it was most probably over 20 years ago that I first heard about adding water wetter to a loop first being discussed. There really wasn't as many products specially made for the PC water cooling market back then. Often people used heater cores intended for cars as radiators. And almost every water loop was running a pump intended for aquariums as that was what was available.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 Yes, you got it. I used an oil cooler, aquarium pump, and a low profile aluminum heatsink from a 386 or 486 with a plastic cover glued on top to cool a Pentium 133 overclocked to 166. If I remember correctly. Those were the days!
As a former auto tech, using 100% antifreeze/coolant is a great way to overheat an engine. This is why I wasn’t surprised in the least that 100% wetter yielded poor results.
I just saw this mentioned for the first time and it makes my head hurt. I’d ask why…but the reason people think antifreeze will COOL your computer seems to be because they know it goes in a radiator…and radiators cool your car. They seem to miss that water is doing the cooling. It’s kinda like the bad math thing they do with “he’s got 200 billion and there’s 200 million of us so give us each a billion dollars.” Antifreeze DECREASES water’s thermal conductivity. But yea that’s immediately where my mind went was all these people filling their cars up 100% with antifreeze…to cool it.
It's interesting. When I dabbled in watercooling around 17 years ago, water wetter was already recommended by some people on the various forums. I remember getting a bottle for my loop. Didn't notice any difference back then either.
Vehicles are designed to run at a certain Temperature. If you make it run cooler. It will not run efficiently. Causing it to get less milage, and it will polute more.
You're actually correct. Engines are specifically designed to run at specific temperatures for peak efficiency, and messing with that is a great way to wear out your engine.
I actually used this stuff in my rig for a few years, still have the bottle. I ended up getting a bit of gunking and hazing (the color didn't stain though, which is good), which caused my pump to start squeaking, but I can't be sure that it was due to this stuff. Pure water wetter... a true madman.
The stuff genuinely works. They use same active ingredient in trains. It's been around for ages. Other people have tested it on custom loops with positive results. The difference is going to be smaller in a pc system for sure. Delta temperature and all that.
This product works great. I’ve been using this product for over 20yrs in all my classic cars. And Yes it does reduce temperature heat by 20’ degrees. Plus my engine performance is much better and I also recommend this product to my family and friends.😎😇🎉🙏🏽👍
Ill tell you, I used that stuff in my 1968 Mercury Cougar, and while the temp gauge in those old cars wasn't exactly a precise scale, it did seem to lower it a noticeable amount.
not because the rad fan turn on and off between precise temp, mostly on at 95°C and off at 89°C, if your engine temp go higher as 95°C then you have an overheating problem and it's not this fake product who will change something lol
Yeah, that's what I keep thinking. A 20° difference From a 220° starting point is completely different than thinking you are going to drop 20° from an 80-90° starting point. It's an unrealistic goal/comparison, finding the percentage of the claimed temp decrease in an automotive use and seeing if when used in the pc cooling system the total percentage of temperature loss is equivalent would be more fair to the product
@@thierrygamer2413 I'm aware of this but we're not talking about cars overheating, we're talking about the huge discrepancy between the temps in the different systems. Not to mention I was literally going from the numbers he had gotten from the bottle, not numbers I pulled outta my a$$.
I use it on alot of my builds very minimally... its great anti corrosion and anti algae. The oils in it can affect some plastics. After a few years I did get some parafin like buildup in some of the very tight spots but no damage.
Btw, literally everything will perform worse than 100% water in a cooling loop. Water is just that awesome. What you're looking for is algaecide and anti-corrosive that doesn't drop temps _too_ much. EDIT: If you use degassed water, and then blanket the surface of the water in your reservoir with argon gas (it's heavier than air so it's not hard), you won't need to use anti-corrosives. You can get a can of 100% Argon for like $15 -- it's used to preserve wine for amateur winemakers. I believe that's the real trick with AIOs that use aluminum -- get rid of (most of) the oxygen from water, then you don't need to worry about oxidation. You'll probably want to add a simple pressure release valve to the reservoir so that the remaining lighter gasses can escape over time. Hmm, in addition to boiling distilled water, probably the easiest way to remove the remaining oxygen is to fill teabags with iron filings and a magnet and put them in the reservoir -- as they rust, they'll capture the oxygen. The combination of teabag + magnet will keep the water clean long enough to remove the teabag before it disintegrates (ratio 2.32 iron to 1 oxygen by weight). 33mg of iron filings per liter of water should be more than enough, even without boiling it first. Would still need to use the argon blanket. I don't know how long it would take. More iron filings would make it take less time.
AIO use glycol and they arent perfectly sealed since air and liquid can permeate thru the tubing, even something as thick as a tire can't perfectly prevent permeation
Thanks for trying it! I think the seal protection and anti corrosion are a gain and the leak detection dye is a bonus. The temperature decrease was not significant but all in all with the correct ratio was worth it.
I've run an old heater core as a radiator once early 2k, wasnt efficient, but back in the day when water cooling a pc was more ghetto and not as mainstream there was a lot of us that ran automotive fluids in loops because it made sense
There is a toxic yellow version as well. I used it in an old mixed metal PC cooling system back before I really knew what I was doing. I had it at just above its recommended mix rate with added biocides and used the same water in my loop for three years before I moved to a place with AC and no longer needed a huge liquid system on my FX 8350. The coolant was still clear after all that time with almost no floaters or slime buildup. My radiator was a 4-core aluminum one from a 40,000 BTU window AC unit that had copper reducers on it so I could fit my 1/2" ID clear soft tubing, which I went and used full medical lab grade tubing on. I have no idea if it helped my temps (my 8350 never went over 50c when the ambient temp was 90f), but it did seem to prevent mixed metal corrosion.
Ive always wanted to see a liquid cooled loop filled with something like Thermal Grizzly's Conductonaut (liquid metal). If there would be a way to keep it flowing and if it would be capable of flowing through a cpu block and radiator.
I personally haven't ever messed with those metals. At least not in years to the point I can't remember how easily they flow. It would be interesting if there were a way to engineer a loop based around it though.
In the very olden days of PC water cooling people had added Waterwetter to their custom water cooling systems and claimed that it did in fact lower temperatures however I recall the best results were when it was massively diluted. I recall people only adding a few cap fulls of WW to their Zalman Reserator, With its 2.5L coolant capacity that showed how much it needed to be diluted for PC water cooling.
I've owned two turbocharged cars and after an autocross run, the overflow bottle would gurgle at idle. After using water wetter, one full bottle, added to 50/50distilled water and coolant, the gurgling stopped. This proves to me the water was more effectively drawing away heat from the heads and stopped the steam pockets from gurgling.
I used this stuff in my 550hp Integra race car cuz it always ran very hot, the day after I put water wetter into the coolant the coolant temps dropped 8-10c and sometimes more.. so I can promise you it DOES work for automotive.. it’s suppose to be able to transfer heat better then coolant as it’s more water based than coolant based I think and water transfers heat better than coolant does.. now because computer coolant doesn’t get anywhere close to the temperatures that engine coolant gets I doubt you’d ever notice or see a difference but just wanted to comment saying it does work for vehicles and there are lots of other videos proving that. Thanks for the video tho it was interesting!
I actually used to to use this in my PC back in the days before "PC specialist fluids" became a thing. Back then you had to run engine coolants in your PC unless you wanted algae/corrosion.
I'd love to see someone try different liquids and see how they compare, on a slightly more serious scale than,, "lets try beer,, oh it's not as good as water, oh well" , and because it's good fun. ;)
I had a 79 Trans Am that ran at about 240F in the Texas heat no matter what I did to it. I changed radiators, thermostats, cleaned the block and heads in an acid tank, changed temp sensors and temp gauges, and replaced the fan clutch and fan blade. I was recommended Water Wetter and upon adding it to the radiator my car NEVER got above 220F again and it usually maintained 210-215. I have been singing its praises ever since.
I was just gonna mention this! I switched over to Evans about 2y ago and never looked back, there's also another brand that's waterless but more PG, vs Eth. Glycol. Making the switch was a pain. 4 flushes to get less than 3% water lol
A series of trying out unusual cooling fluids suggested by the comments would be really cool. I recall that Cray supercomputers used some kind of non-conductive flourocarbon liquid, with a giant fishtank looking bubbler resevoir, because normal mineral oil immersion cooling wasn't good enough to deal with the heat. Trying the modern equivalent in a gaming pc would be pretty neat.
IDK about cooling improvements but this stuff INSTANTLY removed the air from my loop, i added it to the res and it flushed all the bubbles out of my rad it was impressive
This stuff has been a trick for a long minute in old school watercooling. In addition a little silver spring to prevent algae and bacterial sludge in long term loops.
Seems to me like going from just a little in the mix to all out may not have been the best move. I didn't pause the video to read the label carefully but I don't think it was really intended to be used alone since even normal antifreeze requires a mix to be effective. I wouldn't mind seeing this experiment revisited and maybe doing a 25% mix and then 50% to see if either of those is effective.
If I ever went with a liquid based cooling versus my current air cooled. I would be using the same liquid I used 15 years ago when I made/maintained hockey ice rinks in FL. The solution allowed for better cooling, maintained temperature, heat removal, and life span versus the gimmick stuff today. We would cringe when some jabroni would us anti-freeze or coolant fluid from the auto store. As it was clear they didn't know what they were doing. Keep up the great work on this channel!
Donnovan Mason on the bottle itself it advertises that for the best performance you should use water and water wetter only. He showed this in the video.
Automotive coolants can work well in computers really. I'm running 50/50 distilled water and Prestone antifreeze in my rig, with Tygon tubing. It's not that super pretty, but I did it this way so it'd last for a long time without any leeching tubes or anything.
We use this stuff in race engines for two reasons mainly. First some tracks do not allow you to run anti-freeze as it can make the track super slick in case of leaks or crashes. We use this instead as it prevents rust compared to using just water. The other reason is it does work in those extreme heat scenarios when we tested it on an engine dyno. I've never seen a 20° difference though maybe 5-10. We are also talking about temps over 220° F.
Aaaaand at 5:17 you say "it´s not a huge drop, within the margin of error, but it´s a drop" No, as you said yourself, it´s within margin of error and therefor it´s neither a drop nor a rise of any sorts. It just doesn´t change, because the changes you "measured" were too little to be of any value.
I used that in my bike that used to overheat. It worked! Whether it ran as much cooler as it says I do not know as I never actually tested temps before and afterward.
Works great in the race car, you can't run normal glycol based coolant at the track because if it spills its almost impossible to clean and it's super slick. You won't see much gain on a PC water loop because the system temps aren't nearly high enough, coolant in a car is usually around 180f to 220f and under pressure...
Water wetter is a surfactant, which helps to break the cohesive bond between the hydrogen atoms of water molecules. In theory, this allows the molecules to more thoroughly contact the heat transfer surfaces of a liquid cooling system. It will also allow the water to flow easier. The water wetter itself isn't doing the work, it just helps the water do a better job. A drop of dish soap per gallon of water, can achieve a similar effect.
It is used as an antifreeze replacement, pure water with a surfactant cools better and evaporates like water, it doesn't slick a track with glycol like normal antifreeze. It does have lower boiling point, but like said cools better than antifreeze.
Plain water actually works better than antifreeze for cooling and engine, this stuff is only a very small improvement over water. The 20 degree claim is talking about this vs antifreeze. I hope this helps clear up some of your results! People often use this at the track where you can't use glycol based coolants. I use this stuff in some of my motorcycles that run a hot in the summer and it does make a 10 degree fahrenheit difference at the peak compared to antifreeze 50/50 mix (goes from 230 to 220 max) but otherwise you will not notice a difference unless you are maxing out your cooling system. You are also not running at near the temperatures of an engine where this stuff is most effective. I suspect that your pump is struggling to move the same amount of liquid as it did before because the liquid is not hot enough.
This is basically a surfactant. Another example of a surfactant is jetdry that you use in your dishwasher. Most of the closed loop additives already contain a surfactant, lubricant and a bio-agent to reduce or prevent things growing in the tank. Basic physics, any thing that is a liquid at room temperature will be room temperature. Mos t things that are liquid at room temperature and wont eat your hardware are going to be mostly water anyway. The way to get something to cool better than water(we use water because it is the most abundant liquid that can transport heat) is to use something that is a gas at room temperature and cool it to a liquid state then keep it in it's liquid state. Most of the gasses that we can get as liquid that do not require specialized equipment to keep that way also have a higher viscosity than water so there is your trade-off. Liquid Nitrogen(LN2) is currently the best balance between cooling and excess cost. Liquid Hydrogen (LH2) would be the best possible solution but it's volatile, expensive and most places requires a permit that is not easy to obtain.
Like other people have said it is mainly for race cars. It also is critical for maintaining proper lubrication for a pump as pure water will kill a pump. I used to use it in my old Miata. It is a good automotive product.
Freedom units. Freaking love it. As a solid idea, after having watched the full video, attempt 8 - 10 cap fulls to the mixture? Maybe this will make the adjustment appropriate for cooling a pc. Jw if adding in a third variable would make a difference.
Just based on the numbers shown I would assume the reduced temperature is from it lowering the boiling point of your coolant in an automotive radiator and thus lowering the temperature where the phase change happens, wont do anything in a system not designed to boil the coolant.
Water Wetter is supposed to be used at about 40:1 with straight water to increase surface tention. Water conducts heat better than Glycol thus increasing cooling capacity of automotive cooling system using water / glycol mix. PCs use straight water already so your going to see any gains even if used properly.
Water wetter is for controlling air pockets created by boiling of the coolant in car engines on hot spots several hundreds of degrees. But its anti corrosion properties would be great in the pc.
We use this on track for circuit racing and we did noticed temperature difference. Did run cooler. We had to use distilled water if that made any difference
I always wanted to see someone take a small window AC unit (or one of those newer in-room ones), and run the low-pressure (cold) lines into a CPU water block for active cooling. If you know how to work on AC units that would be a seriously cool video.
Crazy idea but what about putting the reservoir/pump in a very small refrigerator. Drill two holes into the side so your lines fit and just seal around the lines. Not sure if the condensation inside the fridge would short out the pump, but you might be able to seal that somehow too? Idk just thinking outside the box. I think it would be a cheap experiment to try and if it worked I'd be curious to see the numbers. Good video though. 👊 I wondered if water wetter would make a difference.
I use it in PC and machinery cooling loops with distilled water in its recommended mix ratio. Its also got a biocide in it alongside its corrosion preventers and pump lubricant. Never had any issues with it. The Rislone hyper cool is about as good too. The nice thing about it is you can source it from Walmart and any auto parts store.
Great video 👍 Though I will say that it's claimed reduction of 11 deg C is based on the idea that it's circulating in an engine block, which obviously produce a LOT more heat. I know it's the same principle but the variables are vastly different given that most CPU'S will throttle well below 100 deg C. I've used this in cars before with good results.
I used to sell a product called zx1 lube, if I remember correctly it can be added to water (even though it's an oil). There is a video where they added it to an engine, got it circulated, ran it to red line, drained the oil and then removed the sump and the engine just kept going
Your results were expected. You need the water to carry the heat. Water wetter like antifreeze raises the boiling point of water so that it doesn't boil off hot engine parts, instead it allows the coolant to maintain contact with hot surfaces absorbing heat. The operating coolant temp of most engines now days is at or above boiling. The parts that coolant is cooling can be well above boiling so even in a pressurized system water needs a little help.
AFAIK this stuff increases the boiling point therefore giving you more headroom until the radiator cap vents. Classic glycol bases solutions work on the same principal already. I guess it would be a benefit if you were to run your car on pure water alone, which in an emergency might be a solution but not for everyday driving. As for pc water cooling, I have tried a lot of fluids including 0w-30 engine oil from valvoline, performs as expected, less efficient as water, given the lower thermal capacity but if i remember correctly it made the system quieter. However the dual DDC pumps died after a couple of weeks due to worn out bearings and a lot of sludge clogging up the radiator's channels. I have tried again with a transmission oil cooler instead but the pumpt unit died again. Great video though, always wanted to see if that stuff has any effect at all under normal operating conditions.
Water wetter was a go to back in the day when building an open loop meant pulling a radiator out of a chevette at the local junk yard. Good stuff. Smells tho.
Used to put this stuff in my dirt bike, mostly because I didn't used coolant, to keep the water from corroding the radiator mixed with the aluminum block.
Its use for track cars for various reasons, don't forget that a car engine would be running at a temperature and pressure - don't think a PC loop would be running at any sort of pressure.
Back a long time ago before pre-made coolants and concentrates for water cooling were a thing, water coolers used to mix surfactants (typically just common dish soap) in with distilled water. So using something like "Water Wetter" wasn't unusual, especially if you were also using automotive antifreeze. The breakup of the surface tension made getting air out of a loop so much easier. It didn't really improve the actual cooling performance all that much, but that wasn't why people did it.
That stuff works AMAZING in vehicle cooling systems... Good for 12-15 F when added to standard 50/50 in my 4wd 2500HD in the Florida heat when hauling my drag car... And the drag car? I went from having temp problems (220+) with distilled water, to it staying stable at 180-185 even after hot-lapping, EVEN AFTER GOING TO A HALF SIZED RADIATOR AND A SINGLE FAN!
All that talk about lubricating the pump gave me an idea, how about throwing some fine graphite filings in there? As every kid knows it is semi-soluble in water, but it will precipitate so maybe through in a little dish soap would help. And even if some of it did come of out solution and stick to surfaces, it could actually improve cooling (being a great thermal conductor and disruption the linear flow...🤔
Cool test. If you are curious to run another test, find Engine Ice. We run it on ATVs that run hot, it seems to run cooler and it does last longer than normal coolant.
The other thing to watch out for with products like this is if it sludges up your water block or other components. This isn't something you can set and forget.
Another car thing to try would be spraying the cooler with water to cool down temps. Build a container run a pump to a spray nozzle have water go thru the cooler. You could try a mix of water and rubbing alcohol also.
Water Wetter used to be the thing to add to your loop in the late 90's. It was easy to get, even in smaller quantities, it was safe to use with most plastics found in aquarium pumps and such and it was a pretty good galvanic corrosion inhibitor, on top of being a biocide. Also it was a rather big requirement to use a corrosion inhibitor. DIY waterblocks made of flexible copper tube, and old car heating radiators had the major issue of the radiator core being aluminium. These days I wouldn't use anything with a dye in it anymore. I have bad experiences with dyes messing up pumps. So I prefer to run as little 'muck' in my loop as is possible. Besides it's pretty easy these days to just run a copper cored radiator, with copper CPU and GPU blocks and run full copper hard line piping.
I used a bottle of this in my water cooled Athlon 3200 build in 2004 didn't notice any difference, but my reservoir was a 100L tupperware bin with a pond fountain pump :p. No mold or corrosion when I tore it down in 2010 though.
With car temps between 160-200 dropping 20 is easy with the bigger water flow and less restrictive than the water cooling loop you are using, did this about 10 years ago and please clean the loop out asap as it will break down to clog up the loop.
an old-school contractor I met before mentioned this stuff, I believe he used 50/50 with distilled water. Supposedly it was the best coolant, but I never tried it personally.
I had a custom loop about 20 years ago that had water wetter in the loop. It had the heater core from a Hyundai as the radiator (no fan) and a huge custom plexiglass tank taking up 4 optical drive bays in the front. Unfortunately the fact that water wetter lowers the surface tension it means that it gets into places and eventually worked its way through the glued seems of the tank and all that slightly oily sticky water got out and into car sound insulation foam and on the floor. Luckily the only computer part affected was an already broken optical drive. I re-glued the tank (better than the previous guy) , adding a Playmobil deep diver fighting a Moray eel and a fish tank backdrop and some blue cold cathode ray lights (this was before blue LEDs) and never used water wetter again. It supposedly kills algae but I figured deionized water would do the trick just as well and it worked great for years 🤷♂️
Water Wetter works on a simple principal (one that doesn't really apply to PCs): It breaks surface tension. Period. Anything else listed on the bottle is already done by normal automotive coolant. What Water Wetter does in a vehicle, with a cast block (semi porous) and cast cylinder heads (also semi porous) is reduce bubbles(caused by the extreme heat near the cylinder walls and combustion chamber) from adhering to the metal's surface, which lowers coolant's efficiency at transporting heat to the radiator. A liquid conducts heat better than air, bubbles mean heat needs to pass from metal-air-liquid. Modern engines can produce upward of 500F near the combustion chambers, something a PC would hopefully never do, which can cause a rapid boiling effect before the thermostat even has a chance to open and allow coolant to flow to the radiator. TL:DR: Wont do anything for your cooling loop except make it pink and mildly toxic. WILL help if you have an automotive engine prone to cavitation or overheating (sometimes). Don't waste your money on car stuff for your PC.
I use this mixed with distilled water in my drift car. It definitely helps out some, ive been using it for probably 3 years. Would be cool to see it work on a pc loop though.
I would like to see someone try "Evans waterless coolant" in a computer loop. It is supposed to absorb heat better then regular coolant and because it doesn't contain water there is no corrosion.
Specific heat content; the ability of a material to absorb heat energy. Water has the highest specific heat of any substance known! Nothing liquid at room temp comes close.
Evans 100% coolant is going to be worse then 100% water, because the coolant does not hold as much heat in the liquid as 100% water does. Best is 100% water with a little bio thing.
It's UV so if it leaks out it's easy to find leak on engines etc.
Came to say this. Toyota factory coolant is pink and super uv reactive!
@@lunchie80 a lot of factory coolant are now. VAG group use pink I know there's a green/yellow great idea. Though
@@D3adCy11nd3r Yeah definitely think it just used for quick glances and internal leaks in side the car to look at fins on rads etc and pressure tester don't work of it a off pressure leak.
I think he knows this, he's a Major.
I had no idea, found my new way to find coolant leaks
It's mainly for racing guys because you can't run antifreeze at the track. It lubricates, prevents rust, and raises the boiling temperature of water. It works well when your at the thermal limits of the radiator. If your not at the limit of the radiator to dissipate heat then you really won't see any improvements.
I run it in all my vehicle. My 1987 Prelude showed improvements because the radiator is smaller and mostly blocked from air.
@@1987FX16 air doesn't block a radiator. It gets pushed through in seconds. Same in a PC. If you get air in your loop, ramp pump speed up and it comes through extremely fast.
If your car radiator is blocked, it isn't air...ever...at all.
@@lunchie80 I think you misread his comment.
@@lunchie80 he means it gets limited airflow "blocked from air"
@@lunchie80 in cars you don't deal with such limited CFM as a PC, plus you have an engine compartment so most of the air around is hot, hence if you don't have a cold air port or access to cold air, you are literally passing hot air in the radiator. hence why car enthusiasm people who mods their engine will often port a cold air intake to gain power. (a pipe leading to the front so the car don't pull in hot air in the engine, so naturally a radiator also benefit from outside air instead of the pocket of preheated hot air in the hood.)
This stuff absolutely works in vehicles. I've used it for years in cars and trucks.
First time was an old loaded down tow vehicle on a hot summer. It was just starting to boil over on hills. Stopped at a garage. They recommend Water Wetter. It worked. I got a 10-15 °f temp reduction. Just enough to make the trip with no boil overs.
Used it ever since. One other benefit, if you live in a cold climate, your heater core gets more efficient too so better cabin heating.
I think it's time for you to invest into a thermal camera.
i agree
@@MajorHardware please get one (it)
will add so much more depth to your content! love the videos
Every duder needs one of those!!!...
@@theecstatic9686 Some phones are starting to come with them installed so it's getting easier too. Like the CAT phones or blackview.
@@allbromobro3505 I had it in CAT S60 four years ago.
I would've liked to see how 25% of the stuff and rest distilled water did or even 50/50
Agree! This is what I came to comment about! He should have done a few more tests upping the additive each time.
Also agree, I have no idea how this didn't cross his mind.
Yeah, it literally says 50/50 gets the best results on the back of the bottle! Why would you NOT test the one ratio that experts say is the best?
@@ArtemisKitty 50/50 is an antifreeze colant by Prestone
Ah, sorry, I should have been clearer. I saw that as well on the bottle, but what was listed as 50/50 mixture or 1:1 ratio of this fluid and water. That’s the blend I’d like to have seen. Sorry, I didn’t realize that was also a product brand name in the USA.
so I use the stuff in my liquid coolant loop years ago when I was running liquid cooling and I noticed that it did progressively better up to around about 30-70 water with mostly water. and when discussing this with someone who runs this stuff in dragsters they told me that the way it works is by primarily reducing the water tension. he also claimed it is also supposed to increase thermal conductivity of water however this only works if your coolant is primarily water preferably distilled. That is why I start to see a decrease in performance after the 30% mark. But if you are going to run this in your system it will work just be mindful that it will stain any soft plastics or rubbers it won't destroy them but it's protective elements will die them pink.
I remember in the 90s when it first came out we all thought it was a joke. We all gave it a try and it made such a huge improvement to cooling our race engine.
I first heard of it when I was 16 working with my neighbor at the local short track. I thought.. "WTF?" Turns out it works well for racing applications
I've used this in my motorcycle's radiator.
It's a surfactant, reducing the surface tension of the liquid, prob down at the molecular level so it has more contact with the surface of the motor's water channels, supposedly increasing conductivity.
As a result, the coolant entering the radiator should be reading at a HIGHER temperature, because more heat is supposed to be transferred into it (either from the motor, or in this case, the CPU heat sink). It's supposed to be taking heat away from the heatsink.
Holy crap someone else who knows how it works!
think you could use a kind of soap or another surfactant? without the foaming agent!
@@shanechopko5523 Yes and no... depending on the style you use could cause build up on the microfins on the CPU block.
DISsurfactant*
something like 10 or 15 years ago, perhaps it was even 20 years ago by now, a lot of people were debating adding Water Wetter to their loop and what you could expect from using it. Some claimed it made it improved the cooling, some claimed it stopped galvanic corrosion and some said it kept your loop from turning into a closed ecosystem experiment. At the same time there were two other camps, one of whom preached that the only liquid that should ever be put in a cooling loop was pure distilled water with no additives while the other looked at car engines and added glycol to the water in their loop. We know that running pure water tends to make the loop into a biological hazard if you just let it run without bothering to empty, flush and refill the loop regularly.
Anti freeze used in engine coolant is designed to prevent the cooling system from turning into something the CDC might be interested in and to prevent galvanic corrosion as it's quite common to have several dissimilar metals in the cooling loop of an engine. Sounds like something we might want to try in a computer cooling loop right?
Now back then there really wan't much in the way of custom computer cooling liquids or additives so turning to the car market was kind of an easy way to fix this.
With all the specialized cooling liquids available now it would be interesting to see some long term testing of different liquids and additives. How do they stack up when new, and which ones grows the funkiest stuff in the loop when it's been used for a couple of months. And is the antifreeze or water wetter any better or worse than what the PC water cooling companies try to sell you.
Just an FYI water wetter is the same stuff used in trains. Water wetter is just a brand name.
🚆 are serious business, if it didn't work I doubt they would have used it.
Also I was that guy running 50/50. I still would if I ever built another loop.
Over 20 years ago by my memory. This was a debate in the late 90s when I built my first water loop!
@@bradley3549 The more I think about it I come to agree that it was most probably over 20 years ago that I first heard about adding water wetter to a loop first being discussed.
There really wasn't as many products specially made for the PC water cooling market back then. Often people used heater cores intended for cars as radiators. And almost every water loop was running a pump intended for aquariums as that was what was available.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 Yes, you got it. I used an oil cooler, aquarium pump, and a low profile aluminum heatsink from a 386 or 486 with a plastic cover glued on top to cool a Pentium 133 overclocked to 166. If I remember correctly. Those were the days!
When you say pure water results in biohazard you can't be talking about dionized, or distilled water. Nothing grows in those ever.
As a former auto tech, using 100% antifreeze/coolant is a great way to overheat an engine. This is why I wasn’t surprised in the least that 100% wetter yielded poor results.
I just saw this mentioned for the first time and it makes my head hurt. I’d ask why…but the reason people think antifreeze will COOL your computer seems to be because they know it goes in a radiator…and radiators cool your car. They seem to miss that water is doing the cooling. It’s kinda like the bad math thing they do with “he’s got 200 billion and there’s 200 million of us so give us each a billion dollars.” Antifreeze DECREASES water’s thermal conductivity. But yea that’s immediately where my mind went was all these people filling their cars up 100% with antifreeze…to cool it.
what if you live in poland and have -30C winters and 42C+ summers?
@@starwars1357they drink it
It's interesting. When I dabbled in watercooling around 17 years ago, water wetter was already recommended by some people on the various forums. I remember getting a bottle for my loop. Didn't notice any difference back then either.
Vehicles are designed to run at a certain Temperature. If you make it run cooler. It will not run efficiently. Causing it to get less milage, and it will polute more.
You're actually correct. Engines are specifically designed to run at specific temperatures for peak efficiency, and messing with that is a great way to wear out your engine.
20 degrees Fahrenheit? So that'd be like 3,5 bananas?
.84 watermelons
.44
Major Hardware 420 leaves
50 gummy bears.
3.5??? Ohhhh you meant 3½. no it more like 3⅝ #7 bananas
I actually used this stuff in my rig for a few years, still have the bottle. I ended up getting a bit of gunking and hazing (the color didn't stain though, which is good), which caused my pump to start squeaking, but I can't be sure that it was due to this stuff. Pure water wetter... a true madman.
Blimey this stuff brings back memories. From my early days of watercooling in the late 90s.
Been running this in my custom loop for 4+ years. Never had an issue and works great!
Also it's probably been said here but I assume all these "water wetters" require car-like temperatures to kick in. Thanks for experimenting though :)
The stuff genuinely works. They use same active ingredient in trains. It's been around for ages. Other people have tested it on custom loops with positive results.
The difference is going to be smaller in a pc system for sure. Delta temperature and all that.
This product works great. I’ve been using this product for over 20yrs in all my classic cars. And Yes it does reduce temperature heat by 20’ degrees. Plus my engine performance is much better and I also recommend this product to my family and friends.😎😇🎉🙏🏽👍
Ill tell you, I used that stuff in my 1968 Mercury Cougar, and while the temp gauge in those old cars wasn't exactly a precise scale, it did seem to lower it a noticeable amount.
Been using this for years in my car, no noticeable difference in temps, but it’s allowed at the track, and prevents corrosion.
That would be 11C at engine operating temperature.
not because the rad fan turn on and off between precise temp, mostly on at 95°C and off at 89°C, if your engine temp go higher as 95°C then you have an overheating problem and it's not this fake product who will change something lol
Yeah, that's what I keep thinking. A 20° difference From a 220° starting point is completely different than thinking you are going to drop 20° from an 80-90° starting point. It's an unrealistic goal/comparison, finding the percentage of the claimed temp decrease in an automotive use and seeing if when used in the pc cooling system the total percentage of temperature loss is equivalent would be more fair to the product
@@justinyates1154 if a car coolant is at 220°F (109°C) your car is overheating and it's not water wetter who will solve the cooling problem
@@thierrygamer2413 I'm aware of this but we're not talking about cars overheating, we're talking about the huge discrepancy between the temps in the different systems. Not to mention I was literally going from the numbers he had gotten from the bottle, not numbers I pulled outta my a$$.
Justin Yates it’s just an engine coolant nothing more
Thanks for testing this out! Honestly, I’m surprised another UA-cam creator hasn’t tried it!
i was to when someone asked me to try it and i couldnt find it on the internet i was like is this real life
20* cooler, Thats freedom units 😂
1.6 washing machines
As if the US is considered an example of freedom. LMAO.
@@L4tinoR4g3 Don't you dare doubt the bald eagles riding gigantic pushrod V8 muscle cars full of guns with the military vets!
Oh forgot the burgers
It's funny because the US is legally on the metric system.
@@jediii86 Where?
Air is an insulator, you don’t want any in your radiator. I find it gets rid of micro bubbles in the loop really well
royal purple "purple ice" would be an interesting test, good to know though that this would be an option for a corrosion inhibitor
I use it on alot of my builds very minimally... its great anti corrosion and anti algae. The oils in it can affect some plastics. After a few years I did get some parafin like buildup in some of the very tight spots but no damage.
Btw, literally everything will perform worse than 100% water in a cooling loop. Water is just that awesome. What you're looking for is algaecide and anti-corrosive that doesn't drop temps _too_ much. EDIT: If you use degassed water, and then blanket the surface of the water in your reservoir with argon gas (it's heavier than air so it's not hard), you won't need to use anti-corrosives. You can get a can of 100% Argon for like $15 -- it's used to preserve wine for amateur winemakers. I believe that's the real trick with AIOs that use aluminum -- get rid of (most of) the oxygen from water, then you don't need to worry about oxidation. You'll probably want to add a simple pressure release valve to the reservoir so that the remaining lighter gasses can escape over time. Hmm, in addition to boiling distilled water, probably the easiest way to remove the remaining oxygen is to fill teabags with iron filings and a magnet and put them in the reservoir -- as they rust, they'll capture the oxygen. The combination of teabag + magnet will keep the water clean long enough to remove the teabag before it disintegrates (ratio 2.32 iron to 1 oxygen by weight). 33mg of iron filings per liter of water should be more than enough, even without boiling it first. Would still need to use the argon blanket. I don't know how long it would take. More iron filings would make it take less time.
AIO use glycol and they arent perfectly sealed since air and liquid can permeate thru the tubing, even something as thick as a tire can't perfectly prevent permeation
Thanks for trying it! I think the seal protection and anti corrosion are a gain and the leak detection dye is a bonus. The temperature decrease was not significant but all in all with the correct ratio was worth it.
Gotta love watching the computer guys finally starting to adapt some automotive water cooling tech into the PC stuff.
dont worry, its worse
Always wanted to set up a car radiator in a loop.
I've run an old heater core as a radiator once early 2k, wasnt efficient, but back in the day when water cooling a pc was more ghetto and not as mainstream there was a lot of us that ran automotive fluids in loops because it made sense
finally starting? this is what watercooling used to be before there was dedicated stuff for pc's
Hilarious that you did a video like that as I'm a car guy and was thinking about this product in a watercooling loop lol. Thank you!
The squeeze bottle you hold up at 4:08 really doesn´t look like it fits 100 ml. More like 400, maybe more ;)
those are freedom unit ml's
I think he means 1000ml, which is 33.8 fl ounces, and a quart is 32 fluid ounces.
I think he meant 1000ml, he says later that he estimated the entire system was 1000ml.
i didnt even notice that in editing lol
There is a toxic yellow version as well. I used it in an old mixed metal PC cooling system back before I really knew what I was doing. I had it at just above its recommended mix rate with added biocides and used the same water in my loop for three years before I moved to a place with AC and no longer needed a huge liquid system on my FX 8350. The coolant was still clear after all that time with almost no floaters or slime buildup. My radiator was a 4-core aluminum one from a 40,000 BTU window AC unit that had copper reducers on it so I could fit my 1/2" ID clear soft tubing, which I went and used full medical lab grade tubing on. I have no idea if it helped my temps (my 8350 never went over 50c when the ambient temp was 90f), but it did seem to prevent mixed metal corrosion.
Ive always wanted to see a liquid cooled loop filled with something like Thermal Grizzly's Conductonaut (liquid metal). If there would be a way to keep it flowing and if it would be capable of flowing through a cpu block and radiator.
i'd say too viscous and may cause corrosion also it's conductive as well
You do know that liquid metal = liquid gallium right?
@@DarkdragonKev you do know you couldnt be more wrong, right? try gallium.
DarkdragonKev way too dense. It wouldn’t move
I personally haven't ever messed with those metals. At least not in years to the point I can't remember how easily they flow. It would be interesting if there were a way to engineer a loop based around it though.
In the very olden days of PC water cooling people had added Waterwetter to their custom water cooling systems and claimed that it did in fact lower temperatures however I recall the best results were when it was massively diluted. I recall people only adding a few cap fulls of WW to their Zalman Reserator, With its 2.5L coolant capacity that showed how much it needed to be diluted for PC water cooling.
I haven't watched yet, but i do use this stuff in one of my bmw's and it def helps.. you can essentially get the same effect using dish soap though.
I've owned two turbocharged cars and after an autocross run, the overflow bottle would gurgle at idle. After using water wetter, one full bottle, added to 50/50distilled water and coolant, the gurgling stopped. This proves to me the water was more effectively drawing away heat from the heads and stopped the steam pockets from gurgling.
run this in both my jeep and track car, works wonders
I used this stuff in my 550hp Integra race car cuz it always ran very hot, the day after I put water wetter into the coolant the coolant temps dropped 8-10c and sometimes more.. so I can promise you it DOES work for automotive.. it’s suppose to be able to transfer heat better then coolant as it’s more water based than coolant based I think and water transfers heat better than coolant does.. now because computer coolant doesn’t get anywhere close to the temperatures that engine coolant gets I doubt you’d ever notice or see a difference but just wanted to comment saying it does work for vehicles and there are lots of other videos proving that. Thanks for the video tho it was interesting!
Great channel love the content. I think this is your golden era :D
I actually used to to use this in my PC back in the days before "PC specialist fluids" became a thing. Back then you had to run engine coolants in your PC unless you wanted algae/corrosion.
Idea, try some pepto bismol in the loop.
I'd love to see someone try different liquids and see how they compare, on a slightly more serious scale than,, "lets try beer,, oh it's not as good as water, oh well" , and because it's good fun. ;)
LTT tried concrete…
...bismuth is a metal though...
This sounds like a horrible idea lol
I had a 79 Trans Am that ran at about 240F in the Texas heat no matter what I did to it. I changed radiators, thermostats, cleaned the block and heads in an acid tank, changed temp sensors and temp gauges, and replaced the fan clutch and fan blade. I was recommended Water Wetter and upon adding it to the radiator my car NEVER got above 220F again and it usually maintained 210-215. I have been singing its praises ever since.
what about no water? Evans Waterless Coolant for cars! Should try it next :-P
I was just gonna mention this!
I switched over to Evans about 2y ago and never looked back, there's also another brand that's waterless but more PG, vs Eth. Glycol. Making the switch was a pain. 4 flushes to get less than 3% water lol
A series of trying out unusual cooling fluids suggested by the comments would be really cool.
I recall that Cray supercomputers used some kind of non-conductive flourocarbon liquid, with a giant fishtank looking bubbler resevoir, because normal mineral oil immersion cooling wasn't good enough to deal with the heat. Trying the modern equivalent in a gaming pc would be pretty neat.
Damn, my Starter alternator of my 2700x isn't running, i guess i have to bring the winder/crank again...
You... Aren't really a "car guy", are ya?
@@operator8014 Unless he's a hybrid car guy. *Gross*
IDK about cooling improvements but this stuff INSTANTLY removed the air from my loop, i added it to the res and it flushed all the bubbles out of my rad it was impressive
Sorry to get all Brony in here, but
The old "20% cooler" joke came to my mind
I was waiting for Rainbow Dash to pop up in the video
Pls explain
This stuff has been a trick for a long minute in old school watercooling. In addition a little silver spring to prevent algae and bacterial sludge in long term loops.
Then Feser, rest in fucking peace, absolute revolutionaries, came out with their fluid, which was the go-to for a long long minute.
Seems to me like going from just a little in the mix to all out may not have been the best move. I didn't pause the video to read the label carefully but I don't think it was really intended to be used alone since even normal antifreeze requires a mix to be effective.
I wouldn't mind seeing this experiment revisited and maybe doing a 25% mix and then 50% to see if either of those is effective.
If I ever went with a liquid based cooling versus my current air cooled. I would be using the same liquid I used 15 years ago when I made/maintained hockey ice rinks in FL. The solution allowed for better cooling, maintained temperature, heat removal, and life span versus the gimmick stuff today. We would cringe when some jabroni would us anti-freeze or coolant fluid from the auto store. As it was clear they didn't know what they were doing. Keep up the great work on this channel!
Why didn't you use 50/50? You just used a few caps then went full bottle.
Donnovan Mason on the bottle itself it advertises that for the best performance you should use water and water wetter only. He showed this in the video.
Automotive coolants can work well in computers really. I'm running 50/50 distilled water and Prestone antifreeze in my rig, with Tygon tubing. It's not that super pretty, but I did it this way so it'd last for a long time without any leeching tubes or anything.
this stuff need 50 % water in cars, you need totry that
No it does not
@@Buchta179 if you use only coolent the car will overheat in warm wheater, same as you see in the Video, the coolent is to thick
@@X0R-284 there is no such thing as "coolant" it's glycol and water. Those combined is coolant
@@alexstromberg7696 yeah, you´re right, my englisch isn´t the best
@@X0R-284 Americans also call it coolant, I just want people to know the actual name and how it works so np my dude
We use this stuff in race engines for two reasons mainly. First some tracks do not allow you to run anti-freeze as it can make the track super slick in case of leaks or crashes. We use this instead as it prevents rust compared to using just water. The other reason is it does work in those extreme heat scenarios when we tested it on an engine dyno. I've never seen a 20° difference though maybe 5-10. We are also talking about temps over 220° F.
@Green Eyed Bali Bule We use 19lbs and up radiator caps and water under 19 psi of pressure boils at 269F actually.
I run this stuff in my car 😁
I use this on my refrigerator water drip pan. Poured 50-50 mix because my ref has thin metal tubes submerged inside the pan. So far so good no rust
Aaaaand at 5:17 you say "it´s not a huge drop, within the margin of error, but it´s a drop"
No, as you said yourself, it´s within margin of error and therefor it´s neither a drop nor a rise of any sorts. It just doesn´t change, because the changes you "measured" were too little to be of any value.
I used this in my race motorcycles it works :) just ask any racer
@@jimsellers6911 what does this have to do with my comment? 😅
@@stefan514 oops
It was a good science experiment thanks for walking ya through it! Keep up the great content.
the only thing cool about Redline is the old PC game
I used that in my bike that used to overheat. It worked! Whether it ran as much cooler as it says I do not know as I never actually tested temps before and afterward.
Works great in the race car, you can't run normal glycol based coolant at the track because if it spills its almost impossible to clean and it's super slick. You won't see much gain on a PC water loop because the system temps aren't nearly high enough, coolant in a car is usually around 180f to 220f and under pressure...
Water wetter is a surfactant, which helps to break the cohesive bond between the hydrogen atoms of water molecules. In theory, this allows the molecules to more thoroughly contact the heat transfer surfaces of a liquid cooling system. It will also allow the water to flow easier. The water wetter itself isn't doing the work, it just helps the water do a better job. A drop of dish soap per gallon of water, can achieve a similar effect.
It is used as an antifreeze replacement, pure water with a surfactant cools better and evaporates like water, it doesn't slick a track with glycol like normal antifreeze. It does have lower boiling point, but like said cools better than antifreeze.
Thumbs up from me for having the bravery to run that through your pumps $ other components for science!
Plain water actually works better than antifreeze for cooling and engine, this stuff is only a very small improvement over water. The 20 degree claim is talking about this vs antifreeze. I hope this helps clear up some of your results! People often use this at the track where you can't use glycol based coolants.
I use this stuff in some of my motorcycles that run a hot in the summer and it does make a 10 degree fahrenheit difference at the peak compared to antifreeze 50/50 mix (goes from 230 to 220 max) but otherwise you will not notice a difference unless you are maxing out your cooling system. You are also not running at near the temperatures of an engine where this stuff is most effective. I suspect that your pump is struggling to move the same amount of liquid as it did before because the liquid is not hot enough.
Watter wetter is basically a propylene glycol/glycerine base and a few other chemicals added. Essentially turning water into antifreeze.
This is basically a surfactant. Another example of a surfactant is jetdry that you use in your dishwasher. Most of the closed loop additives already contain a surfactant, lubricant and a bio-agent to reduce or prevent things growing in the tank. Basic physics, any thing that is a liquid at room temperature will be room temperature. Mos t things that are liquid at room temperature and wont eat your hardware are going to be mostly water anyway. The way to get something to cool better than water(we use water because it is the most abundant liquid that can transport heat) is to use something that is a gas at room temperature and cool it to a liquid state then keep it in it's liquid state. Most of the gasses that we can get as liquid that do not require specialized equipment to keep that way also have a higher viscosity than water so there is your trade-off. Liquid Nitrogen(LN2) is currently the best balance between cooling and excess cost.
Liquid Hydrogen (LH2) would be the best possible solution but it's volatile, expensive and most places requires a permit that is not easy to obtain.
Like other people have said it is mainly for race cars. It also is critical for maintaining proper lubrication for a pump as pure water will kill a pump. I used to use it in my old Miata. It is a good automotive product.
Directions are to dilute with water, so concentration is something like 24oz in 12 gallons. Works like a champ in my truck.
Freedom units. Freaking love it.
As a solid idea, after having watched the full video, attempt 8 - 10 cap fulls to the mixture?
Maybe this will make the adjustment appropriate for cooling a pc. Jw if adding in a third variable would make a difference.
Just based on the numbers shown I would assume the reduced temperature is from it lowering the boiling point of your coolant in an automotive radiator and thus lowering the temperature where the phase change happens, wont do anything in a system not designed to boil the coolant.
Water Wetter is supposed to be used at about 40:1 with straight water to increase surface tention. Water conducts heat better than Glycol thus increasing cooling capacity of automotive cooling system using water / glycol mix. PCs use straight water already so your going to see any gains even if used properly.
Water wetter is for controlling air pockets created by boiling of the coolant in car engines on hot spots several hundreds of degrees. But its anti corrosion properties would be great in the pc.
We use this on track for circuit racing and we did noticed temperature difference. Did run cooler. We had to use distilled water if that made any difference
I always wanted to see someone take a small window AC unit (or one of those newer in-room ones), and run the low-pressure (cold) lines into a CPU water block for active cooling. If you know how to work on AC units that would be a seriously cool video.
Crazy idea but what about putting the reservoir/pump in a very small refrigerator. Drill two holes into the side so your lines fit and just seal around the lines. Not sure if the condensation inside the fridge would short out the pump, but you might be able to seal that somehow too? Idk just thinking outside the box. I think it would be a cheap experiment to try and if it worked I'd be curious to see the numbers. Good video though. 👊 I wondered if water wetter would make a difference.
It worked great in my '68 air cooled beetle. I put in my windshield washer.
I use it in PC and machinery cooling loops with distilled water in its recommended mix ratio. Its also got a biocide in it alongside its corrosion preventers and pump lubricant. Never had any issues with it. The Rislone hyper cool is about as good too. The nice thing about it is you can source it from Walmart and any auto parts store.
Great video 👍 Though I will say that it's claimed reduction of 11 deg C is based on the idea that it's circulating in an engine block, which obviously produce a LOT more heat. I know it's the same principle but the variables are vastly different given that most CPU'S will throttle well below 100 deg C. I've used this in cars before with good results.
I used to sell a product called zx1 lube, if I remember correctly it can be added to water (even though it's an oil). There is a video where they added it to an engine, got it circulated, ran it to red line, drained the oil and then removed the sump and the engine just kept going
Your results were expected. You need the water to carry the heat. Water wetter like antifreeze raises the boiling point of water so that it doesn't boil off hot engine parts, instead it allows the coolant to maintain contact with hot surfaces absorbing heat. The operating coolant temp of most engines now days is at or above boiling. The parts that coolant is cooling can be well above boiling so even in a pressurized system water needs a little help.
AFAIK this stuff increases the boiling point therefore giving you more headroom until the radiator cap vents. Classic glycol bases solutions work on the same principal already. I guess it would be a benefit if you were to run your car on pure water alone, which in an emergency might be a solution but not for everyday driving.
As for pc water cooling, I have tried a lot of fluids including 0w-30 engine oil from valvoline, performs as expected, less efficient as water, given the lower thermal capacity but if i remember correctly it made the system quieter. However the dual DDC pumps died after a couple of weeks due to worn out bearings and a lot of sludge clogging up the radiator's channels. I have tried again with a transmission oil cooler instead but the pumpt unit died again.
Great video though, always wanted to see if that stuff has any effect at all under normal operating conditions.
Water wetter was a go to back in the day when building an open loop meant pulling a radiator out of a chevette at the local junk yard. Good stuff. Smells tho.
Used to put this stuff in my dirt bike, mostly because I didn't used coolant, to keep the water from corroding the radiator mixed with the aluminum block.
Its use for track cars for various reasons, don't forget that a car engine would be running at a temperature and pressure - don't think a PC loop would be running at any sort of pressure.
Back a long time ago before pre-made coolants and concentrates for water cooling were a thing, water coolers used to mix surfactants (typically just common dish soap) in with distilled water. So using something like "Water Wetter" wasn't unusual, especially if you were also using automotive antifreeze. The breakup of the surface tension made getting air out of a loop so much easier. It didn't really improve the actual cooling performance all that much, but that wasn't why people did it.
That stuff works AMAZING in vehicle cooling systems... Good for 12-15 F when added to standard 50/50 in my 4wd 2500HD in the Florida heat when hauling my drag car... And the drag car? I went from having temp problems (220+) with distilled water, to it staying stable at 180-185 even after hot-lapping, EVEN AFTER GOING TO A HALF SIZED RADIATOR AND A SINGLE FAN!
All that talk about lubricating the pump gave me an idea, how about throwing some fine graphite filings in there? As every kid knows it is semi-soluble in water, but it will precipitate so maybe through in a little dish soap would help. And even if some of it did come of out solution and stick to surfaces, it could actually improve cooling (being a great thermal conductor and disruption the linear flow...🤔
Cool test. If you are curious to run another test, find Engine Ice. We run it on ATVs that run hot, it seems to run cooler and it does last longer than normal coolant.
The other thing to watch out for with products like this is if it sludges up your water block or other components. This isn't something you can set and forget.
Another car thing to try would be spraying the cooler with water to cool down temps. Build a container run a pump to a spray nozzle have water go thru the cooler. You could try a mix of water and rubbing alcohol also.
Water Wetter used to be the thing to add to your loop in the late 90's. It was easy to get, even in smaller quantities, it was safe to use with most plastics found in aquarium pumps and such and it was a pretty good galvanic corrosion inhibitor, on top of being a biocide.
Also it was a rather big requirement to use a corrosion inhibitor. DIY waterblocks made of flexible copper tube, and old car heating radiators had the major issue of the radiator core being aluminium.
These days I wouldn't use anything with a dye in it anymore. I have bad experiences with dyes messing up pumps. So I prefer to run as little 'muck' in my loop as is possible. Besides it's pretty easy these days to just run a copper cored radiator, with copper CPU and GPU blocks and run full copper hard line piping.
I used a bottle of this in my water cooled Athlon 3200 build in 2004 didn't notice any difference, but my reservoir was a 100L tupperware bin with a pond fountain pump :p. No mold or corrosion when I tore it down in 2010 though.
Thanks for doing all these videos, I enjoyed it.
With car temps between 160-200 dropping 20 is easy with the bigger water flow and less restrictive than the water cooling loop you are using, did this about 10 years ago and please clean the loop out asap as it will break down to clog up the loop.
an old-school contractor I met before mentioned this stuff, I believe he used 50/50 with distilled water. Supposedly it was the best coolant, but I never tried it personally.
I had a custom loop about 20 years ago that had water wetter in the loop. It had the heater core from a Hyundai as the radiator (no fan) and a huge custom plexiglass tank taking up 4 optical drive bays in the front. Unfortunately the fact that water wetter lowers the surface tension it means that it gets into places and eventually worked its way through the glued seems of the tank and all that slightly oily sticky water got out and into car sound insulation foam and on the floor. Luckily the only computer part affected was an already broken optical drive. I re-glued the tank (better than the previous guy) , adding a Playmobil deep diver fighting a Moray eel and a fish tank backdrop and some blue cold cathode ray lights (this was before blue LEDs) and never used water wetter again. It supposedly kills algae but I figured deionized water would do the trick just as well and it worked great for years 🤷♂️
Water Wetter works on a simple principal (one that doesn't really apply to PCs): It breaks surface tension. Period. Anything else listed on the bottle is already done by normal automotive coolant. What Water Wetter does in a vehicle, with a cast block (semi porous) and cast cylinder heads (also semi porous) is reduce bubbles(caused by the extreme heat near the cylinder walls and combustion chamber) from adhering to the metal's surface, which lowers coolant's efficiency at transporting heat to the radiator. A liquid conducts heat better than air, bubbles mean heat needs to pass from metal-air-liquid. Modern engines can produce upward of 500F near the combustion chambers, something a PC would hopefully never do, which can cause a rapid boiling effect before the thermostat even has a chance to open and allow coolant to flow to the radiator.
TL:DR: Wont do anything for your cooling loop except make it pink and mildly toxic. WILL help if you have an automotive engine prone to cavitation or overheating (sometimes). Don't waste your money on car stuff for your PC.
I use this mixed with distilled water in my drift car. It definitely helps out some, ive been using it for probably 3 years. Would be cool to see it work on a pc loop though.
I would like to see someone try "Evans waterless coolant" in a computer loop. It is supposed to absorb heat better then regular coolant and because it doesn't contain water there is no corrosion.
Specific heat content; the ability of a material to absorb heat energy.
Water has the highest specific heat of any substance known!
Nothing liquid at room temp comes close.
Evans 100% coolant is going to be worse then 100% water, because the coolant does not hold as much heat in the liquid as 100% water does.
Best is 100% water with a little bio thing.