How to remove the EVAP Leak Detection Pump On A Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep DETAILED
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Quickly remove and install an EVAP Leak Detection Pump on a Dodge Charger, Magnum, or Chrysler 300 so you can pass the emissions 💭 test. Please SUBSCRIBE 🔔 And 👍👍👍 if this video helps, AND Mention in the COMMENTS your thoughts on this video. To see more details & tools click on SHOW MORE 👉👉👉
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To better learn or understand the insides and how the leak detection pump operates, check out this cool tear down video.
👉 • EVAP Leak Detection Pu...
This video shows how to remove the Purge Valve Canister:
👉 • Remove Stuck EVAP Purg...
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This guy is the Bob Ross of mechanics. Great video 👍
Wow, thanks!
I just watched this and thought the same thing 😂
Thought the same thing immediately.
Out of the majority of the videos showing the replacement of this sensor. You're is the only one that names it and also lists a link to buy it in the description. Thank you
Glad it helped. I focus on the details, and have watched other videos that were either not specific, were put together in a not so well presented way, or gave incorrect information. This is why I made this detailed quality video.
I also made a quick detailed video that explains how this EVAP piece works and operates. It's also a cool teardown. Here is the link for those interested: ua-cam.com/video/D9eJ1Om6K2M/v-deo.html
I did this job without taking off the tire, just took out some of the screws in the lining above the wheel, pull it down some by hand and the leak detection pump is right there. Took 5 min tops.
Nice!
@user-rt4ct6tq3r What car model
This was a Chrysler 300 or Dodge Cahrger.
@@FixCarYourself Neither. Pacifica.
@@FixCarYourself Sorry it was late and I read what you said the wrong way.. Even so it should be doable the same way as on the Pacifica, its in the same location but for filming purposes you should remove the wheel to get a better view as you did.
I just want to say that this video is very well made. I don’t think I could keep my camera that steady while working on my car.
It was quite hard, and the light was in my eyes. I luckily had a tripod at some points. But I had to use my hand to hold the camera to show an unclose in certain areas so people could see the details of removing it a bit better.
@Fix Car Yourself what side of the car is it on?
@@timothyphelps1660 I have a 2015 Chrysler 200, and mine is on the rear passenger side.
@@timothyphelps1660 rear passenger side
I just changed the purge valve the other day. If that doesn’t solve the problem, this is the next step. Thanks for the video.
Glad it helped. Changing the purge valve is quicker to do, but the part is more expensive. Where as the EVAP takes a little more time to get to but the part is cheaper. Usually if its not 1 then its the other. Either way you do it I'm glad you are tackling it yourself.
@@FixCarYourself Several videos show the purge valve to be one of the potential causes. Someone said if you that’s bad, it causes the other one to go bad. I hope not.
By the way, more expensive and easier to get to. Someone once said “time is money.” In that case, I’d say they’re about the same price Lol.
Anyway, now I’m just driving it to see if the light turns off.
How many miles did it take for yours to turn off, or did you have it cleared?
Well put, time is money, especially nowadays! Anyway, I either drove it 100 miles and it cleared or I used a code reader and of course it hasn't come on since and I've driven over a few thousand miles since. I did pass emissions, so I know it worked! haha
@@FixCarYourself I’ve put 80 miles on my car since changing the purge valve. It’s actually my wife’s car, but I’m driving it because she works so close to home, she won’t be able to put enough miles on it in time to see if it’s fixed. Luckily I was able to get a 14 day temporary moving permit from the DMV, but I need to know asap in case I need to change the other part.
@@FixCarYourself One website I found suggested that the light should turn off after about 40 miles for the 2015 200. That’s discouraging since I have put 94 miles on the car since changing the purge valve. I’m really hoping 100 miles is the magic number. Otherwise I’m watching your video again and crawling under my car this weekend.
This is a new update.
I’m posting so everyone learns from my mistakes.
Several sites say that the gas cap is the number one cause of P0441. Whether you didn’t tighten it or it just wore out, please start there. I did everything backwards. I started with the purge valve and then did the ESIM (leak detection pump). On a whim, I bought a new gas cap on my way to work on Monday. The new one immediately felt like it was fitting tighter than the original one. Before I got home, the check engine light turned off on its own. $130 worth of parts, and the easiest and cheapest one solved the problem.
The light has stayed off, and my wife was able to smog and register the car before the temporary permit expired.
Thanks for the update. This should help others out.
I went backwards the other way. Started with the gas cap, and now onto the 3rd purchase 😂
@@apachewraith What code comes up on your car?
I saw a video where something on the top of the gas tank itself can cause a leak and a code, but I don’t remember what the code was.
@@DiligentDave1966 did you have performance issues when the check engine light was on? my car hesitates to accelerate only in hot weather and I am very confident it's coming from the EVAP system which probably has a leak somewhere. no check engine light though.
@@felipemunoz4177 I didn’t have performance issues because it was actually my gas cap that was causing the check engine light to be on.
I cant seam to see what side your on and not sure if it would be the same Chrysler town and country 3.8 09
driver side rear for a Chrysler town and country.
I’m about to give it ago 😬 ..Thanks for the video
Hope this helped. Let me know later if you get it done.
I siliconed my ish. Never had a problem never again
Interesting and crafty.
TL:DR
I just want to clarify a few things in this video. Sorry for the long post, and I'm not trying to be disrespectful to the author, or anyone else.
There seems to be a lot of confusion/misunderstanding surrounding what's going on in this video. The part that he is replacing in this video is called ESIM, or Evap System Integrity Module/Monitor. It is commonly referred to as an LDP or leak detection pump, but I assure you that is not what it is. Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep started using the ESIM around 2007/2008. All it does is close a switch (or allow it to open) in response to natural vacuum/pressure changes in the fuel tank. There is no pump/purge/regulating going on inside of it. What I didn't see in the video was how he knew this was the failed component. They either physically leak to the atmosphere from a cracked ESIM body or a bad oring where it attaches to the charcoal cannister, OR the diaphragms inside that cause the switch to activate has failed. There is a chance that the switch itself (inside the ESIM body) has failed and is no longer able to signal the ECU/PCM that vacuum or pressure is moving through it from the fuel system. Physical leaks can be detected with a smoke test if you have access to, or are willing to build a smoke machine. (filling the evap system with smoke and seeing where it leaks out). The diaphragm and switch functions can be bench tested by applying a small amount of vacuum to the cannister connection side of the ESIM while monitoring continuity between the 2 electrical terminals on the side. A small amount of vacuum should cause there to be continuity. Continuity all the time is bad, and if it's all you can do to suck on the ESIM to gain continuity you probably have a bad diaphragm. A vacuum of 1/2" on a vacuum gauge that uses inches of water as a scale should be all it takes to close the switch. A vacuum of that strength should be pretty easy for a human to manually apply. If you have to suck on it hard enough to get a golf ball through a garden hose to close the switch, the diaphragm is bad.
LDP's (leak detection pump) systems work differently than ESIM systems, they don't look like an ESIM module and have a different set of criteria to set a fault code.
interesting good background.
Perfecto 👌 muchas gracias Dios lo bendiga 🙏
Your welcome
Really helpfull video my guy !! Just had that code p0456 pop in on my chrysler t&c 2011 and was wondering how to do it and came across your video well detailed and explained great job my guy !!! Got a new follower
Thanks so much! and I'm glad you fixed your problem.
Where do I get this product from and will it fit my 2005 Chrysler Pacifica I have these same codes popping up
A regular auto parts store carries them as well as Amazon. I think I put some links in the description.
@@FixCarYourself I looked on Amazon and O’Reillys but they didn’t have the part it popped up a different part but it shows it at Walmart just not sure if it’s the right part for my vehicle
it should narrow down the list when you input your car info for amazon or ebay, that should narrow down the exact part number.
How do I know it's not the evap canister, which is the rectangle longer piece that is directly across from the evap pump. I have a 2016 chrysler 300c 5.7l and replaced the sensor that sits right on top of the engine but still getting the check engine light and code. I was thinking I'd replace the evap canister rather then then evap pump
The canister is more than the pump and more of a time consuming repair. So I would usually start with the evap pump.
Is it necessary to disconnect the negative battery cable first? I hope I didn’t fry the new purge valve.
I didn't.
@@FixCarYourself Since I replaced the purge valve, it seems like there’s a slight gas smell in the car. I’m wondering if the new valve is defective and the ESIM was the problem in the first place. Unless it’s the parts cleaner I used to clean the filler neck with, but I think that would be gone by now.
I didn't disconnect my battery either an I had no issues.
Hey everyone. Just an update on my car. As I said, I replaced the ESIM Saturday night. Just to be safe, I bought a new gas cap yesterday on my way to work.
The light turned off on its own when I started it up after a pit stop on my way home. I’m really thinking it was the gas cap all along, even though it looked fine. The new one just immediately felt like it was fitting and sealing better than the original one.
Now that I think about it, the Chrysler Sebring (which is the same as the Chrysler 200) had the exact same problem. Regardless, I'm glad your repair job is done. Great job on troubleshooting your car. I wish more people would do that before going in to a repair shop.
@@FixCarYourself I can’t see paying upwards of $100/hour while I’m healthy enough to do stuff myself, especially when there are so many shady repair shops that just rip people off.
I just wish I had known about the trick where you seal off the filler neck to rule out the gas cap. My light would have turned off, and I would have known that was the problem right away. It would have saved me time, money and headache.
@@FixCarYourself From what I’ve seen, it’s really common in the 2.4 liter vehicles.
However, I’ve seen plenty of videos where people are replacing the ESIM on other Chrysler vehicles because they seem to all use the same ESIM.
I just wish I had known about the trick where you seal the filler neck. If I would’ve tried that first, the light most assuredly would have turned off and I would’ve saved time, money and headaches.
I had the same with my 2012 200. Replaced gas cap with new OEM cap and Gascap light went away. After about a week or 2, the light is back on. I know cap is good, so trying to figure out if it's the pump/sensor, or my filler neck (had tank replaced about year and a half ago).
@@SizzleSack55 Have you tried cleaning the filler neck where the cap seal seats?
Could also be the ESIM or leak detection pump.
I heard there’s a way of sealing the filler neck without a cap.
Is it possible you’re over-tightening the gas cap? I’ve heard that can wear them out prematurely.
The gas cap I bought was a Duralast from Autozone. I don’t know if that’s better than OEM or not.
FYI, on an 2006 (probably 2005 too) 300, it looks a bit different. Part # is: 4891427Ab
thanks, this should help others out!
According to a video I just found, the ESIM going bad is really common in Chrysler vehicles.
Yep, you have no idea, how many complaints their are. Same for the purge valve...and that's just emissions. Suspension is worse!
@@FixCarYourself yup, I'm needing to replace the ESIM and suspension
It’s a little easier on a 2015 Chrysler 200 because it’s mounted on the face of the black unit instead of on top like the one in this video.
Looks like mine was replaced before because the blue locking clip was broken, but I was able to gently pry the metal clip from the back side with a small flat head screwdriver to release it.
I wonder why it was replaced previously if it actually was. No reason to touch this emissions part unless their was past emissions problems.
@@FixCarYourself I saw a video that basically said these fail within 100k miles. When we got the car, it had over 80k. I’d say either it failed or, like me, the previous owner got the code and went with recommendations.
The printout from Autozone specifically suggested to replace this part to fix the problem.
@@FixCarYourself I got the car from a dealership with a little over 80k on the odometer. If the leak detection pump is known for failing within 100k, it probably had failed at some point. I just know that the blue plastic locking clip was broken. I don’t see how it could be broken unless someone changed the part.
Interesting. So Chrysler knows its a problem and didn't make it a recall. Not a surprise.
Could you tell me if it is in the back or front of the car?
How many miles did you have on your vehicle when this happened? I saw a video that said they fail at about 100k.
Wish that was the case for me, and before I had to do an emissions test. But it was just under 75,000 miles.
I have no codes jus the gas cap symbol on the cluster. I put a new gas cap and the error just comes back the moment i turn the car on. Is it this? I have no check engine light.
It's hard tovsay. Hook up a code reader and get the codes to narrow down the problem.
@@FixCarYourself p0456
It could be the evap pump or purge solenoid, or a small cut in one of the hose lines.
Thank you for this video, what year is your minivan? Can you drive with this check engine code? Why do you need to change this part?
2008. You could drive this with the code, but the Emission police will eventually fine you and you are not allowed to legally register your vehicle in the future.
Have a Chrysler T&C that won't fill gas unless it is filled slow as well as a slow leak. Think this is the part? Where is it located on a 2010 T&C?
Not sure but they are usually found in the rear.
After replacing the unit did you get an intermittent hum from the back right area after? I swapped mine out and now I get a humming noise from presumably the new working pump. Never heard it before, only started after replacement.
I did not. Do you still get that sound?
I ended up having to do the swap THREE times unfortunately. The first two dorman pumps I got were defective. The third I just went with OEM and it fixed the issue
Wow. Its amazing how sometimes you have to just get OEM. I feel like the OEM's are doing something with their software to prevent others unfairly from buying their aftermarket parts.
I have a 2009 chrysler seabring ...i think this is what i need to do
The sebrings tend to have bad pumps and gas caps.
I replaced the ESIM with the negative battery cable disconnected. When I first started the car, the light was off, but came back on after a couple of restarts.
Is it still on...have you cleared the codes and then driven the car to see if the light came back on?
I changed this part and now i hear a rattle from it. Does anyone know if this is normal?
In general the LDP has a rattle, but you shouldn't hear it once installed.
Is this the driver side or passenger side of a 2016 dodge Durango limited
Driver side.
I have a 2019 Dodge Journey, any idea where it is located?
In the rear.
That part on a 2012 Chrysler 200 it's beside the gas tank
Good to know that should help others out.
what year? Mine seems in different place. 2003 Caravan.
This vehicle is a 2008.
@@JoeZyzyx 2008
@@FixCarYourself TY
@@FixCarYourself TY
👍Well done. Thanks.
No problem 👍
Update?? Good vid. Did you also replace your vapor canister?
Thanks. No codes since and of course I passed my emissions test.
My 2001 town and country limited shows a different pump ?
Yes I believe the evap pump around that time and before is different.
What side of car is it is that passenger right rear??
I think it was the right rear on this vehicle.
Can you help me out, i seen other videos where it shows in a different place im going crazy here i cant find the location on a 2011 dodge nitro 4.0, this is my last hope, is this the same location?
It is towards the rear Right back passenger side near the fuel tank
@FixCarYourself finally found it, its at the very end thank you!
GREAT 👍.
Thanks for the video
Glad it heloed!
just curious. is it on the rear passenger side or rear driver side?
It depends on the car, but on this Charger 300 vehicle its in the right passenger rear.
Would this be the same for a 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee?
Not entirely sure, but it would probably be similar as they usually use the same parts.
Which way do you push the black tab? Away from the pump? Or toward it?
I can't remember, but I'm pretty sure once your removing it it can only be pushed one way, and you'll know right away because one side will be flexing while the other way won't. So it kinda doesn't matter because you'll feel which way it needs to go as you remove it.
@@FixCarYourself that wasn't my experience. But after much wiggling and trying both ways, I figured out in supposed to push the tab toward the pump.
@@SarahPoulin thanks for the feedback. This should help others out!
Great
Thanks bro
No problem
What tire is it on front back driver side or passenger
On this vehicle it would be the rear passenger side.
Is it the same location for a 2011 Dodge Avenger
Yes, I believe so.
hey quick question? if i have the pump but not a new o ring can i still replace it and just clean the old ring?
You could do that. So the actual problem could be that the o ring and evap just need to be reseated and cleaning around there would be good start. However, this may also be a temporary solution and the evap piece may actually be bad from the insides. Usually most people would just replace the entire unit because its relatively cheap, and so you don't have to redo this again. Please let me know what you decide to do.
This quick video gives a good explanation of the insides of the EVAP: ua-cam.com/video/D9eJ1Om6K2M/v-deo.html
@@FixCarYourself i went to o’reillys and found the part with the ring so i’m just gonna install it tomorow when i’m off work, do you happen to have any videos on spark plug replacement? my car isn’t showing signs of needing them replaced but as of lately i been checking everything
@@291yutobe Cool. I haven't done a spark plug video yet, but will do so in the future.
What other problems are you having with your car currently....also check the codes with a code reader to narrow down your issues. So you don't waste time or money on unnecessary repairs.
@@FixCarYourself i only got the evap detection pump code, i was just looking for a video for future reference
2012 Jeep Cherokee location of the Evap?
left rear wheel area i think.
Will the check engine light go off on its own after driving a certain amount of miles once the problem is fixed?
I’m getting conflicting information from the internet. Also, can the canister the detection pump connects to be cleaned?
I think so, sometimes the memory has to be reset, and the car has to reach certain milestones or driving conditions to do that. As for the canister being cleaned. I haven't done it before, but I do believe it could be done, but I guess the question is if its worth the time to remove it and then to clean it and then to reassemble it.
Also WHY did it get bad, is their a problem somewhere else like in the purge valve. These emissions problems suck. So hoping the transition to electric is smoother. Then again we are still in the early days of battery technology with the exception of Tesla & China.
@@FixCarYourself I’ve heard that the purge valve can cause the canister to go bad. I changed the purge valve, but I’m not sure if that’s the problem. I’m going to do the ESIM this weekend.
Autozone and other places call it the leak detection pump or something like that.
Also, now that I replaced the purge valve, it seems like I’m smelling a faint gas odor in the car.
Have a mechanic smoke you hoses to pinpoint the leak. Saves a lot of time
That is definetly a great option, that is if you don't mind paying for a mechanic.
Brother is that the emission dedtion leak pump
Technically it's the ESIM. But people like to still call it the Leak Detection Pump or LDP for short.
But where is it? Front left or rear right? Hard to tell... I have a chrysler voyager 2001
Rear Driverside.
Finally got to it. But there is no evap sensor behind it.
Rear passenger side then but it’s in the rear
where is the pump located on a 2013 300?
I think its behind the right rear passenger side tire. Please let me know.
how do you remove leak detection pump on 2000 sebring cant seem to get access to bolts to remove thank you
I believe its by the rear driver side tire on the canister. let me know.
You never said what side of the truck. Is is the driver or passenger side
On this car (chrysler 300, Dodge Charger or Magnum) its on the right rear passenger side. But it could be on the driver side rear as well. It depends on the vehicle.
What car model do you have?
@@FixCarYourself Dodge Avenger 2013
It is near the rear driver side towards the back bumper area.
Was this in the tire on the driver side correct?
Passenger side
Right rear passenger side.
So this will cause your vehical not to drive? If not replaced?
Not necessarily. You'll fail your emissions and the car might work harder.
Is this on driver side or passenger side? Im getting ready to replace mine on my chrysler 300 3.6
Jack the car up, and remove the right rear passenger side. Pretty easy.
Let me know how long it takes you to finish the job.
@@FixCarYourself thank you for the info. Im waiting on the part to arrive and il update when installed.
Is this part in the location for a 2002 chrysler sebring. Also great video.
@@Mrjdblchr Thanks. Its definitely in the rear for the Sebring. I want to say the driver side rear, but not completely sure. However, You should be able to look underneath the rear of each tire and you'll see the white pump, and know for sure.
I have a 2014 Chrysler 300 s and mines says fuel pump sensor..is this the same thing?
No, a fuel pump sensor and a leak detection pump are not the same thing in a car. A fuel pump sensor is a device that measures the fuel pressure in the fuel system and sends this information to the engine control unit (ECU) to help regulate the fuel delivery to the engine. On the other hand, a leak detection pump is a component of the evaporative emissions control system that is used to detect leaks in the fuel system. It does this by pressurizing the fuel system and monitoring for changes in pressure that would indicate a leak.
Which side of the car was it on passenger or driver???? And did the check engine light go off?
Rear passenger side. Either After replacing, the check engine light went off or I reset it on the code reader, and it never came back on.
The 2001 town and country leak detection pump is all black and made a different way
Sounds right, before around 2005 it was black.
The light came back on po456
You might have a small leak in the rubber lines somewhere. You may need to do a smoke test or possibly try a soapy spray water test to find the leak. Also make sure the gas cap is tight, and not loose.
How do I get that piece off if I installed it backwards:-(
Just follow the same instructions as if your were initially removing it the first time.
@@FixCarYourself I got it!! 😁
wonderful!
Location on a 2003 dodge Dakota?
Under the front driver side seat, but before the gas tank.
The worst part is that my check engine light came on literally the night before I was gonna smog and renew the registration.
P0441 is the code that came up.
I know the feeling. I had less than a few weeks to quickly repair before my emissions test as it was getting cold out.
@@FixCarYourself My problem is just the opposite. It’s August and I live in Las Vegas. The heat is no joke. The last thing I want to do is work on a car.
What year is this suv?????
2008
What vehicle was this?
This was on a Chrysler 300, but the process is the same for most of the Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep vehicle family if not all of them.
@@FixCarYourself cool cool, im having a similar issue but I think its the canister as well now because when I go and pump the pump stops
@@BdeJJG Usually if this evap pump isn't bad, the next thing to try and replace is the purge valve canister (in the engine area) as the evap canister is a bigger part and more expensive.
Also, clear your codes after replacing the evap leak detection pump and drive for like a 100 miles to see if it comes back on.
When I replaced the pump, the code didn't go off right away. I had to clear the codes 1st and then it went away and of course never came back on after driving so long.
@@FixCarYourself cool, thank you. I actually got the whole unit, the sensor the canister and canister filter so we will see hopefully thats all. This was on the drivers side passenger where the fill up is in place or on the other sode the back passenger seat side? And thank you for replying
It was on the Rear Passenger side.
Where is it on the driver side
The evap pump is usually in the rear near the wheel well tire area.
I found it but it's all black
Which rear tire?
Passenger side for the Chrysler. Drivers side for the dodge
@@user-zj7db8zz1r thank you
Your Welcome!
You didn't explain location driver side or passenger side are front or rear
It depends on the vehicle model. Usually the Evap pump is in the rear. However again depending on the specific model it could be located on the driver side or passenger side rear. In the video this car was a Dodge Charger, Magnum, or Chrysler 300. So it was the rear passenger side specifically.
Did it smell like gas
It did not.
this actually is an ESIM not a LDP (Lead Detection Pump)
Yep, people tend to use this interchangeably. Also lot of sellers actually list this part as a leak detection pump.
Midas is charging me $650 to repair this, are they ripping me off?
It's usually an hour job, plus cost of part. I would say so. Then again prices are crazy everywhere. So I guess it depends on the market your in. But I would go elsewhere and get another quote.
I replaced wife’s and use smoke machine and smoke started coming out of Mopar 4627332AB Fuel Vapor Canister. Go figure.
that sucks. did you get a new one.
I cannot for the life of me unhook this clip
Did you get it yet. I had to push it hard and turning it was harder. Maybe give it a couple taps with a mallet.
Bad
Great!
Did it smell like gas
Nope.
Did it smell like gas
Nope not at all.