I just pumped the brakes opened the bleed valve put a jar at the end of the pipe and kept filling the brake reservoir. That was a few years ago and it has been perfect ever since.
Hi Guys, For reference, I use additional tools to bleed brakes: 1) a power bleeder to pressurize the reservoir and force fluid through the system.. 2) Sometimes, a vacuum pump to draw fluid out of the bleeder. When bubbles are no longer evident at the bleeder, I close the bleeder and disconnect these tools and top off the reservoir. Then I connect the DAS and perform the Exceptional Bleeding process. I have heard from knowledgeable folks that during this process, the ABS pump cycles spend fluid back to the reservoir, which may need to be extracted and replaced. Process worked great on my 06 140. I will perform these procedures on an 05 118 this weekend. Cheers, Tom PS. To save $$$, In my old Volvo days, I constructed a pressure bleeder using a spare reservoir cap with top modified to fit a tire valve stem with core removed, connected via hose to an old pump garden sprayer. And a simple mighty vac type tool works OK at the bleeder. Bonne Chance et Bon Courage as they exclaim in Brittany. Tom
With an auto bleeder, one person is all ot takes to bleed brakes. They cost under $20..alternately, make your oen by taking a piece of hose sized to your bleeder valve, splice in a check valve made for fuel or oil, and you are ready to roll!
Hey guys it's been a while but I'm still around lol. You might be chasing the wrong issue, It's most likely the brake booster. These brake boosters are so old that the rubber diagram loses vacuum add to that a bad hood seal or poorly maintain drain channel at the top of the hood and the brake booster will get direct water dripping on it, water it will penetrate the stamped metal booster housing and cause the booster diagram to rot/become brittle.
Nice to hear! a tale-tell sign of a bad buster from water dripping on it would be a rusted housing or a pedal that seems to hold then slowly loses tension. Was the van ever in the rust belt, so many people with fully rusted lines on the forum that might be worth inspecting all the lines to make sure you don't have one that's about to go?
Did you make sure your break fluid reservoir was filled at all times? Doesn`t help if you pump air in from right there.. Pressure pump at the reservoir is usually how you do it. Remove lid from reservoir, attach the pump (filled with break fluid) to the thread of the lid and pump some pressure in it (1 bar is enough) Open the screw on the caliper and you should have only liquid coming out pretty fast. Thats how I did it and it worked on every vehicle until now. No idea if or why you would have to go into the diagnostics tool... didn`t do it on any vehilce before and they all had ABS.
Debatable. The day of this video is the only time in my life I have tried to bleed brakes. We had experienced help who says "Yes, a proper scan tool is needed" but I have read many opinions online stating it is not needed. I believe** without the tools we must have the engine running or at least the key on so the ABS pump is energized.
I don't think so. I don't fully understand our ABS system 9not even close) but I believe you would be sucking against a closed valve not letting any fluid into the line past the pump unless the pump turns. Perhaps a vacuum would work rather than pumping the pedal, but the ABS pump has to run.
@@FloridaVanMan As long as the brake pedtal is not depressed, the system is "open" meaning fluid can flow into and out of the reservoir. So you can use a vacuum pump to pull fluid out of the bleed screw, as long as there's fluid in the reseroir. I think this method isn't very popular because it's difficult to tell if bubbles in the vaccum line are coming from the brake lines, or coming in around the threads of the open bleed screw.
Your fluid is totally contaminated from age , have someone sit in the seat pump 3 times and hold the pedal down , when it is down you release the blead screw . close the blead screw pump and repeat , but always checking your fluid res is full if you let air in you have start all over start back right , back left , front right front left , have a beer .... eh
I just pumped the brakes opened the bleed valve put a jar at the end of the pipe and kept filling the brake reservoir. That was a few years ago and it has been perfect ever since.
Hi Guys, For reference, I use additional tools to bleed brakes: 1) a power bleeder to pressurize the reservoir and force fluid through the system.. 2) Sometimes, a vacuum pump to draw fluid out of the bleeder. When bubbles are no longer evident at the bleeder, I close the bleeder and disconnect these tools and top off the reservoir. Then I connect the DAS and perform the Exceptional Bleeding process. I have heard from knowledgeable folks that during this process, the ABS pump cycles spend fluid back to the reservoir, which may need to be extracted and replaced. Process worked great on my 06 140. I will perform these procedures on an 05 118 this weekend. Cheers, Tom
PS. To save $$$, In my old Volvo days, I constructed a pressure bleeder using a spare reservoir cap with top modified to fit a tire valve stem with core removed, connected via hose to an old pump garden sprayer. And a simple mighty vac type tool works OK at the bleeder. Bonne Chance et Bon Courage as they exclaim in Brittany.
Tom
With an auto bleeder, one person is all ot takes to bleed brakes. They cost under $20..alternately, make your oen by taking a piece of hose sized to your bleeder valve, splice in a check valve made for fuel or oil, and you are ready to roll!
Hey guys it's been a while but I'm still around lol. You might be chasing the wrong issue, It's most likely the brake booster.
These brake boosters are so old that the rubber diagram loses vacuum add to that a bad hood seal or poorly maintain drain channel at the top of the hood and the brake booster will get direct water dripping on it, water it will penetrate the stamped metal booster housing and cause the booster diagram to rot/become brittle.
Hey Manny! Folks were asking about you a few days ago. Glad to see you. We'll look closer at the booster but he keeps getting air in the lines.
Nice to hear! a tale-tell sign of a bad buster from water dripping on it would be a rusted housing or a pedal that seems to hold then slowly loses tension.
Was the van ever in the rust belt, so many people with fully rusted lines on the forum that might be worth inspecting all the lines to make sure you don't have one that's about to go?
Where can one get that dealer scanner tool?
I see them on eBay often. wWe were given this one 'non-working' from a channel follower. It took a few years to get it fixed and working.
Did you make sure your break fluid reservoir was filled at all times? Doesn`t help if you pump air in from right there..
Pressure pump at the reservoir is usually how you do it. Remove lid from reservoir, attach the pump (filled with break fluid) to the thread of the lid and pump some pressure in it (1 bar is enough)
Open the screw on the caliper and you should have only liquid coming out pretty fast.
Thats how I did it and it worked on every vehicle until now.
No idea if or why you would have to go into the diagnostics tool... didn`t do it on any vehilce before and they all had ABS.
I don't know why either. I just followed the service manual procedure assuming there must be a reason they bolt this into the software.
Do you need a scanner to bleed the abs pump?
Debatable. The day of this video is the only time in my life I have tried to bleed brakes. We had experienced help who says "Yes, a proper scan tool is needed" but I have read many opinions online stating it is not needed. I believe** without the tools we must have the engine running or at least the key on so the ABS pump is energized.
Could you just use a vacuum pump at each wheel?
I don't think so. I don't fully understand our ABS system 9not even close) but I believe you would be sucking against a closed valve not letting any fluid into the line past the pump unless the pump turns. Perhaps a vacuum would work rather than pumping the pedal, but the ABS pump has to run.
@@FloridaVanMan As long as the brake pedtal is not depressed, the system is "open" meaning fluid can flow into and out of the reservoir. So you can use a vacuum pump to pull fluid out of the bleed screw, as long as there's fluid in the reseroir. I think this method isn't very popular because it's difficult to tell if bubbles in the vaccum line are coming from the brake lines, or coming in around the threads of the open bleed screw.
@@bcmanucd I have used a hand vacuum pump on a motorcycle when the master cylinder didn't pump fluid out, worked great but that's with no ABS pump.
Your fluid is totally contaminated from age , have someone sit in the seat pump 3 times and hold the pedal down , when it is down you release the blead screw . close the blead screw pump and repeat , but always checking your fluid res is full if you let air in you have start all over
start back right , back left , front right front left , have a beer .... eh