Yes I have, here is a link. It should be accessible. Let me know if it does not work. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-4509yZzfn8zqmB70csvePGPQkk6-mO2?usp=sharing
@@Rod-ge4yh pdf you should be able to read on any pc. the other file can be read in autocad. I guess you''ll find somebody around you who can open it for you.
RE- the extra weight. PVC foam is VERY porous on its outer layer. If you try to wet laminate some fiberglass on a small section (so you can see through it) you will find that it takes a ton of epoxy to fully wet out the pores on the the Dcell. You should fill it with the lightest possible fairing compound you can find (West 410) in order to keep the weight down. You can then give it a light sanding before infusion, or infuse/glass when it's tacky.
I choose for infusion as it is a clean technique, with standard wet lamination you have resin everywhere. When well done it also gives you the correct fibre/resin ratio (60:40 fibre to resin). My goal is to make light constructions, the strength of your composite comes from your fibres so you just want enough resin to keep everything together. Too much resin increases the weight of your board but not the strength.
I'm no expert so I'd like to have your feedback. I think that the dry spot might be owed to the extra layers you put on the back which led the flow to choose the quickest path. I was actually wondering why you just used 1 inlet and 1 outlet with so much space to fill. At first I though about an inlet from above but you risk not to get resin on the bottom. Seeing that, I would have possibly done 2 ways: 1) same as you plus a second inlet from above in the rear part 2) same as you but starting the inlet from the rear part, so it gets resin first. And maybe 2 outlets to be clamped avcording to the direction you want the flow to have.
Hello, I’m not an expert either. I just try to make boards and to improve my technique every time. So thanks for your feedback. The board is small so 1 inlet should be enough. The path the epoxy has to flow should be maximum +/- 500mm, as my board is only 430mm width this is ok. I also prefer to have slow infusions (that’s also the reason I use slow curing epoxy). I think the biggest mistake I made on this board is that I only used flow media on 1 side of the board, I should have done it on both sides. I should also have put more flow media: the area with resin brakes was almost larger than the area with flow media. Adding more inlets is always a possibility but I think this board is too small to need multiple inlets. A better positioning of the flow media in this case could have prevented the dry spot.
great work mate, do you have a file for the plan shape? Would love to make one similair.
Yes I have, here is a link. It should be accessible. Let me know if it does not work.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-4509yZzfn8zqmB70csvePGPQkk6-mO2?usp=sharing
@@yannickver thanks mate but i could not open it.
@@Rod-ge4yh pdf you should be able to read on any pc. the other file can be read in autocad. I guess you''ll find somebody around you who can open it for you.
This is very clean !
thx !
RE- the extra weight. PVC foam is VERY porous on its outer layer. If you try to wet laminate some fiberglass on a small section (so you can see through it) you will find that it takes a ton of epoxy to fully wet out the pores on the the Dcell. You should fill it with the lightest possible fairing compound you can find (West 410) in order to keep the weight down. You can then give it a light sanding before infusion, or infuse/glass when it's tacky.
I think it also explains why the infusion was so slow, all the resin was being drawn in the foam and not towards the vacuum line. But not sure though
thx a lot for these valuable tips ! i'll experiment with this ...
the infusion was so slow by purpose. If it's too fast we have white spots with not enough epoxy kind of dry spots. (see our first board build)
Why did you choose infusion ?
I choose for infusion as it is a clean technique, with standard wet lamination you have resin everywhere.
When well done it also gives you the correct fibre/resin ratio (60:40 fibre to resin).
My goal is to make light constructions, the strength of your composite comes from your fibres so you just want enough resin to keep everything together.
Too much resin increases the weight of your board but not the strength.
What size is the board? Can I make with this technique a 137cm board?
Size of the board is 85cm long and width 43cm, thickness: 2.5cm
Yes you can use the same technique on a larger board. Will be one of my next projects.
bạn không làm lưới dẫn nhựa?
I'm no expert so I'd like to have your feedback.
I think that the dry spot might be owed to the extra layers you put on the back which led the flow to choose the quickest path.
I was actually wondering why you just used 1 inlet and 1 outlet with so much space to fill.
At first I though about an inlet from above but you risk not to get resin on the bottom.
Seeing that, I would have possibly done 2 ways:
1) same as you plus a second inlet from above in the rear part
2) same as you but starting the inlet from the rear part, so it gets resin first. And maybe 2 outlets to be clamped avcording to the direction you want the flow to have.
Hello, I’m not an expert either.
I just try to make boards and to improve my technique every time.
So thanks for your feedback.
The board is small so 1 inlet should be enough.
The path the epoxy has to flow should be maximum +/- 500mm, as my board is only 430mm width this is ok.
I also prefer to have slow infusions (that’s also the reason I use slow curing epoxy).
I think the biggest mistake I made on this board is that I only used flow media on 1 side of the board, I should have done it on both sides.
I should also have put more flow media: the area with resin brakes was almost larger than the area with flow media.
Adding more inlets is always a possibility but I think this board is too small to need multiple inlets.
A better positioning of the flow media in this case could have prevented the dry spot.