Hall of Craft I find that priming and base coloring a bunch of minis and putting them to the side for a a day or two motivates me to actually get them done. Can’t stand looking at half painted stuff haha.
There's a bit of perfectionism in all of us. I strongly recommend you speed-paint them as therapy. Tell your inner perfectionist voice that you can ALWAYS repaint them later.
@@SolidFoxHoundSF I have been painting them... slowly. I am just finding that whenever i sit down to paint I Toss on a podcast and suddenly ive spent 5+ hours on the one mini.
Came across this video by sheer accident and enjoyed it to the point that I gave it a 👍and subscribed. Also a BIG 👍to you for flying Old Glory outside of your house. Stay healthy and take care.
Good lord, this is quickly becoming one of my favorite channels... I was hooked with the ultimate dungeon terrain, and this sealed the deal. I love any project that lends itself to amateurs with pro results. Subbed, liked, bell'd, and thanks!
LOOOOOOOVE this! I also use cheap paint brushes, and their fantastic. And the eye comment is 💯 spot on. I'm 57 and I've changed my painting approach based on what I can notice from arm's length 🤓
Funny you should mention that. I JUST taped a video on speed painting Frostgrave cultists and I repeat my advice. We painted 20 in 2 hours. Stay tuned.
Great video. I have Massive Darkness and this is the video I needed, as painting is my weakest skill set. I have backed a few kickstarters for the minis, another good place to look is Miniature Market a few times a years they have a clearance sale. Orcs Green > Blue but just slightly. HeroScape had blue orcs I think, That was an older way to get cheap pre painted minis. Please put links (affiliate hopefully) to your supplies. I just googled and found if you have a link that will kick you back some coin all the better. So glad I audited this class
You don't need to spend big bucks on paints! Wal-mart ColorPlace primer (actually made by Sherwin Williams), Apple Barrel craft paint at a whopping 50 cents per bottle (you will definitely need flat black), and some washer fluid. I've been painting buildings for my model railroad with those paints for YEARS and have done several BattleTech and D&D minis with the same paints. If the minis will see a lot of use, I highly recommend 3 coats of a clear flat to finish the job. My BattleMechs got that treatment and I've yet to have the paint job wear through or chip off.
Great video. Just did my first mini paint job ever with the Massive Darkness orcs. Wash: what an invention, really made a massive difference. The highlights on the raised areas at the end really transformed them. Really happy with the results. Now I have another hobby to funnel lots of money into!
Super video! I've probably posted on this before but I've got an eclectic collection of D&D minis that I am kinda proud of. I can use what I have to shape my game rather than trying to find 'that mini' to match a scenario. The biggest group of anything I have are goblins and it's a total of around 65. A varied group and a lot of my minis are ones I could get cheap and this includes re-based MageKnight minis. I started painting--intimidating at first--just to kind of fix how the pre-painted minis looked. I then painted some skeletons from scratch because they're an easy way to start. Eventually, I was painting a group of 20 Reaper Bones goblins. Just like you've done, you can paint in surprisingly little time. You get after sequencing (mainly what color to use as the base, then layer up from there) and great use of washes. The bottom line is that you need not have a super-duper paint job to play games AND any paint job is better than no paint job. I now enjoy painting and find it kind of therapeutic. Also, on the goblins, my party can engage with them at just about any level. Having 65 of them gives me a lot of flexibility as a DM and it keeps goblins in the game as tough opponents. Cheers from Korea!
Hi, Korea! I agree--painting is therapeutic. It's a form of meditation. I also agree that painting skeletons is a great place to start. It's easy to get decent results fast--and it may be worth making a video about it. Thanks for commenting!
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I was stupid lost the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Mohamed Kyson I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
This method was definitely a winner for my Warhammer Gor Beastmen units. There was only one downside for me: boredom. Turns out I can't stand doing the same characters over and over. 😂 This brings back memories of many afternoons and evenings spent painting miniatures alone with music or with brother and then boyfriend, at home or at Games workshop. Good times. I use mainly green for my orcs (I use LotR models), but to make them different from each other I tend to use different shades like sickly yellow green, camo green, dark green, but also leather brown, bleached bone, and some greys as well. A few even dwarf flesh. In my experience they look even scarier when they have a human skincolour.
Nice video. I've rediscovered my love for D&D/RPG's this past year, moving out of tabletop wargaming. I've spent way too much time over the past 30+ years doing much too detailed paintjobs on rank and file miniatures, and have started using a similar speed painting technique on small groups of minis saving my time (and eyesight) for the unique characters. I still can't bring myself to use an oil-based stain on miniatures though.
So I did the strong tone thing for Zombicide: Black Plague for the zombies. It's okay. You don't actually save that much time as it' takes at least 24 hours to cure before you can move on. It also dries and becomes tacky very quickly so you gotta work fast. I've always shaken the can of Strong Tone and it's fine. I'm not sure why shaking the can dries it??. I'd also suggest putting on a large glob of it at the top of the mini and working it downward. the way you were doing it seemed like far too little and taking too long. It will naturally want to drain downwards and pool anyways. So you spread it out everywhere and then start dabbing it off where it pools too much. You gotta check the feet an clear them multiple times or you get large dark brown pools around their feet. It works wonders to hide mistakes but the waiting to let it dry and then mat varnishing it to continue touching it up (your paint was not sticking after the Quickshade) takes forever.
Great video! As I am no novice nor great painter, I always like videos like this to see if there is I can do to speed up my painting (Tabletop standard). I also like using the Army Painter Medium Stain as (IHMO) the strong is too dark! I finish with a semi gloss spray.
Great Video Pro. DM. As someone who has tons of figures I’m always interested in new techniques for speed painting. I love both the green and blue schemes. I have Orcs of brown, gray, green, burnt orange, blue, and even red. Lol. Anyway I’m always up for more painting videos. Although, I Love all your content. Thursday’s are one of my favorite days since discovering your channel. Thanks again Pro. DM
Army Painter shades are a commercialized version of the original, "Dip Technique". They just market their own version of Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain, and sell it to gamers. The Minwax is identical, but at 1/2 of the price... I use Royal Walnut (dirty, muddy, dark brown color), but most people use Tudor, which is genuine black. I prefer the more, in-the-mud look, of Royal Walnut. If you want to try it on a throw-away miniature, grab a plastic Army Man figure, and paint some Minwax on it. Let it dry for 48-72 hours. Don't even bother applying any paint to the Army Man figure! Just shade it with Minwax. You will be impressed at what a difference it makes. "The Dip Technique" is the fastest way to paint armies of figures. For gamers, it is more than sufficient. As you stated, at arm's length, they look great! And the finish is incredibly durable -- they're covered in polyurethane over their paint! I play to enjoy the game. The painting is not the end, playing the game is! The paint is necessary, but at arm's length, and with, literally, hundreds of figures on the table, who cares if they're contest-winning paint work? My mini's get played with, by me, and many other people, in my fantasy mass battles games. They get chipped, they get dropped, they break... That is normal, I expect it. If I spent 12 hours painting each individual figure, I would be crushed, and devastated by the normal wear and tear. My figures are fully painted, with 10 minutes of painting time, including "The Dip" application, and the clear coats. If they get damaged, "Oh, well. It happens. Let's keep playing!" Cheers!
I'd love to see how fast The Prof could knock out a horde of minis using the new GW Contrast Paints. They're a great choice for simple schemes and assembly line painting.
@@AlexBabcock-hw9iz One coat gives coverage, no time spent on shading or detail work. I can always make more money, but my time is a finite resource. For me they're worth more than the price I paid. And expecting anything with the GW label to see a price reduction? 😂
I prefer green. Not sure the perfectionist in me will allow me to speed paint like this, but there are definitely some good ideas. Also, all the videos I've watched showing the heavy uses of thin inks, washes, and shades has given me some ideas I want to try out myself.
Another good tip is Citadel's new contrast paints. Not going to win you any competitions, but great for mass production and you can skip the shading phase. I did about 40 kobolds in roughly 2 hours (including small details, red eyes, and dry times aside from the Quickshade).
I'm going to feature them in an upcoming video. I'll paint two wizards, one with contrast paint and the other with shading/highlighting/glazing. Probably should get on that soon while the topic is still hot.
I feel like every painting video adds a new detail about finishing - Krylon spray varnish now? As one of the people that you've inspired to take up painting for the first time, I really feel like a thorough video dedicated solely to finishes would be massively helpful. I know it's not the sexiest topic but it seems like a void in the painting tutorial world. I have about 30 minis I've painted but I haven't finished because I don't have the confidence that I know everything about it yet. As always, great video and thank you!
Some folks apply a gloss clear coat of spray paint, followed by a matte clear coat. They say that the matte clear coat will eventually wear off, leaving the mini's shiny -- time to re-apply a matte coat. Glossy coats are more durable than matte, by a long margin... Never had that happen to my mini's, in 25+ years -- the matte coat has never really worn off, and I game with my mini's, in mass battles, so they get handled, a lot, by many persons. I use Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain -- Royal Walnut -- Satin, which costs less than 1/2 of the Army Painter products, does the same thing, and is also oil-based. I do NOT paint highlights afterwards, but I'm an "army painter", painting assembly-line style, to get them done, ASAP. I average 10 minutes painting time, per figure, including the Minwax application. I use Satin, but it is still too shiny, so I finish with a matte clear coat. Army Painter shades are originally known as, "The Dip Technique". They just commercialized "The Dip", selling their own version of Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain, and marketing it to gamers, at a much higher price point... It is the exact same technique. Just marketing hype. Too heavy on the matte, and the figures will turn frosty white -- apply a clear, gloss coat, and re-apply a lighter matte coat. Videos will demonstrate, but in the end, you just have to take the plunge. Cheers!
Great suggestion. I will eventually make that video. I am still experimenting with varnishes. The trick is to avoid the "frost" that occurs when you spray matte over gloss. When I figure it out, I will make the video. Cheers!
Prof. DM, For the Orcs, I would go with the green. However, you used a shiny finish on them. Considering what Orcs roll in...I am not sure a high gloss would tell the proper story. I would have flattened the Orcs and glossed the dwarves. After all, when would a dwarf ever be taught with rusty flat armor or weapon? :) Great video. Thanks for the continued education.
I strongly prefer green for orcs. The gray makes them look like they've never seen daylight. Is this what you were trying to portray? Great video, BTW.
Now I have to paint a ton of minis: Zombicide [Green Horde + Wolfsburg + Black Plague], Hate (probably deserve some more time?) and a few RuneWars boxes (including base box + latari elves + a few extensions) + HeroQuest (and extensions (i already painted the heroquest 3D printed magnetic map and walls)) and SpaceCrusade (+3D printed terrain+map)+ SpaceHulk (3D printed map/terrain). It feels good acquiring them, but you are piling up "work" to do. I don't have as much free time as i would like to. I now think it's better to have "badly painted" minis rather than "not painted" minis. Part of me wants to keep them not painted to pass on to my kids to paint (when they're old enough). They''ll butcher the painting, but maybe that's what it'll take for them to feel invested.
I recently picked up one of those small inexpensive "blush" brushes for that purpose. Looks like it would be perfect for dry brushing, but haven't used it yet.
@@NefariousKoel I went to a Walmart and bought a selection of different sizes and shapes. I've mostly settled on Elf and Wet N Wild brands. The superfine hairs are perfect for dry brushing without leaving a dusty transition.
Ever since I was a kid playing HeroQuest, I've always wanted nicely painted models… I've got a few of the WizKids prepaints and they're painted pretty flat and of course they're very rubbery, practically impervious to anything but cats testing them to make sure they're not made of food. (I do not recommend allowing them to do this. Although what is it with cats licking plastic shopping bags? Weird.) Anyway, the prepaints are pretty flatly painted and don't have much detail to them-missing the wash and highlight steps? They're good enough I suppose. But I just watched a guy paint a mummy the other day by priming in a bone white and … "Get a little wash on to your brush and," he scribbles like a madman for about 10-15 seconds, "There it's done!" When I stopped laughing, I said, hey, I could do that! So I now basically have no excuse not to paint my mummies at least. I mean, I dunno about the orcs, goblins, armored warriors, etc. But mummies? A blind man could do that, and … I'm only legally blind so yeah! Others … we'll see. I might still need to find a commission painter to do heroes, though. I can see the details close up if they're painted with lots of contrast, so I think I'd want them done well. Monsters? Ehh, whatever it takes to get them done and on the table.
This was really helpful, thanks. Any chance of a video of paint g with a small number of paints and varnishes? Not sure I can afford all of those colours and lacquers for the 30 figures I have to paint ?
I tried to get the paints to as few as possible. You can always make your own pale blue by tinting white with a small drop of medium blue. You can also save money by using Krylon Brown Spray Primer. Also, join the FB group and ask people what varnish they use in place of Quickshade. I know people do it, but I'm not sure which one is comparable. Cheers!
Just as humans come in multiple colors, Orks should too. Also it's easier to see if one model is always winning and beating the odds, a potential named anti-hero. *if one consistently is extra badass, adding some special paint, a name/rank/title/reputation is a just reward for making the games that much better.
after their are dry from the quick shade MATT VARNISH them before you continue with his steps. if you are a new painter your going to pull your hair out painting on a gloss surface. besides that everything else is fine its a good way to get them to the table!!
GREAT question! I'd LOVE to do that video. I owned Amber & Everway. The problem is only about 200 people would watch it. More views drives the algorithm, which drives growth. My focus is growing the channel, and that means doing videos with a potentially large audience (10k+). I have to be ruthless about my content, so I won't have a video on that in the near future. It stinks, but it's how youtube works.
I love your videos. You're so clear, insightful and entertaining. Really appreciate the content. Would you consider setting up a patreon? You could do with a better quality camera as all of your great minis and dungeon hardware is blurry! With a patreon page, we could all contribute to the cost of a DLSR for you to take beautiful shots of all your hard work.
Here was my quickshade: 2 cups water, 2 cups future floor finisher, 4oz black ink, 4oz brown ink. Wait 24 hours (I'm pretty sure) and spray with a Matte clear coat. Also, this is a dip, so just drop the miniature in, take it out and clean up the pooling with a dry brush (in the same way you described.)
Dustin Smith: good question... I have no idea. I really did neither unless it was REALLY old, and I just gently swirled it with the lid on (or tossed it because it was relatively cheap to make). I would avoid shaking only because of bubbles.
Dungeon Craft: (man I got to work on my name lol) Anyway, the floor finisher I used was 'Future' floor finisher. Inks, as long as it is an enamel ink, it should work. I've used Citadel black and brown, and just regular black India ink. I'm sure vellejo will work perfect (that's the ink I mainly use now for painting and the consistency is the same, but I'd use vellejo sepia ink) I've used blue ink when I wanted to do some yetis for my ogre army. But that was really the only technique I knew, however I know on a boat washes and such I would've just done that because I only had six yetis. I can see somebody using it for a large demon army NEVER USE WASHES... They don't work at all with this concoction. There is just some sort of compatibility with the floor finisher and the enamel of the ink that washes just don't have.
I dun messed up the recipe. I made the edits above, it should be 2 cups of water 2 cups of floor finisher. If you already made it and it doesn't seem to come out too thin, awesome but Worst-case all you Got to do is add a bit more ink
I wish I could find Massive Darkness for $45.00 in Japan, the game is ridiculously expensive here. I’ve seen it going on amazon for over $300...No Sir. I like both colors of the orcs but the blue ones have something that feels like dark magics has been used on them.
I would love to attempt this stuff, but I have no artistic skill when it comes to this type of thing. Give me an instrument and its a different story, but this... Aaaaagh! Lol. I want to do my Resident Evil and Doom board game.
I like the green orc, the blue one looks ill, hypoxic to me. I know this is an older video, October 2023 today. But you need to add a disclaimer not to do the washes on your house. I was painting porch posts and my wife wondered I painted at all. I told her I gave it the weathered look and she said that she wanted the freshly painted look not what it looked like.
@@DUNGEONCRAFT1 I'm no longer on Facebook as I have had my account on there hacked several times I got fed up with it. The recipe here is as follows there are other variations this is the one I prefer. if you prefer to varnish your figures just leave the Modge podge out and add a measure of Medium. All the measures or parts are done up to the 2 CL mark on a little plastic shot glass. Use a pippet or dropper bottles it's more accurate and less messy. I part ink ( this can be any colour if you like to experiment but if you want strong tone it's a mixture of Black in with a bit of Sepia ink chucked in) 1 part Medium 1 part Modge podge ( this seals the figure if you prefer to varnish leave it out add 1 part medium instead) 8 parts water 1 small drop of washing up liquid once you've got it in a pickle jar or container mix it with a tongue depressor give it a really good mix then let it stand ( their might be bubbles from the washing up liquid) then give it a try. if it's too runny or pools too much add a drop of medium until you get the result you want if the opposite is true a little bit of washing up liquid should sort it out. I hope this is helpful to folks out there
I hate looking at the pros models. they depress me as I can't do that a yet my OCD fights me on it. So I avoid looking at their stuff. It is important to note. Details at 12 inches will be lost on the table. One figure that I overdid on details looked just as good as a non-detailed figure when I put them on the table. Think about that. Remember time is a commodity so use it wisely. I model railroad as well and railroaders have some great colors. Grimmy black is awesome. Also, I black wash everything. dry brush after for highlights and I avoid shinny colors unless it is for treasure or metal.
Is it just me or does the quick shade stay sticky FOREVER! Even after removing most of it it stays forever tacky. I’ll wait 3-4 days and it will stay sticky. I then while it’s sticky do my lighter touch ups for high lights on outer edges. I then wait for anther day then spray varnish all over it so it drips off bottom. If I do it too early pain runs.
You should use both of them to have a campaign where orcs are racist to each other because of their skin colour. The players would be stuck between the two factions and chose to do errands for both of them.
@@TheTchad78 Not at all. I got into painting a few months ago and only had to spend about $35 on materials. You can do great work with some of the reaper paints and walmart brushes. Calling Citadel paints and washes "cheap" is ridiculous.
@@TheTchad78 I agree that they're much better, but that has very little to do with my point. My problem is him putting "cheap" in the title while using around $70 worth of paints and washes. His title is very misleading and clickbaity.
Why is everyone pronouncing vallejo as Valayhoe? The V is B in spanish. The double L is a J. And the H is CH. You pronounce vallejo as Bajecho. Lovely video though. Keep a t it.
@@byronhamilton8021 not really. But ok. Ive never said mai chel angelo. I guess in europe we try and pronounce words as close to their original pronounciation as possible. Except for wifi. That sounds different everywhere
"Because screw eyes" - I agree!
I can paint them, but they're just not needed on every figure.
These look amazing, honestly. Seeing your minis in your other videos is always a treat. They have such a dark visceral, and real tone to them.
Thanks, Craig. Share this video wherever you can. it has 10k views but I think it can really help painters and should have 100k.
The perfectionist in me can't bring myself to speed paint... But I have a pile of bones4 minis looking at me waiting for some colour xD
Hall of Craft I find that priming and base coloring a bunch of minis and putting them to the side for a a day or two motivates me to actually get them done. Can’t stand looking at half painted stuff haha.
Love Reaper Bones!
There's a bit of perfectionism in all of us. I strongly recommend you speed-paint them as therapy. Tell your inner perfectionist voice that you can ALWAYS repaint them later.
@@SolidFoxHoundSF I have been painting them... slowly. I am just finding that whenever i sit down to paint I Toss on a podcast and suddenly ive spent 5+ hours on the one mini.
@@sigloophold GREAT tip!
Every time I want to do batch painting I watch this video! Thank you for getting me to paint more! :D
You sir just rolled a nat 20 on painting!
This is definitely a must watch. I’m running into a problem where I need more minis than I am able to paint.
great work
Subscribe to Frankie!
I like both the Green and the Blue. Cool video. Thanks, Professor!
Thanks!
Came across this video by sheer accident and enjoyed it to the point that I gave it a 👍and subscribed. Also a BIG 👍to you for flying Old Glory outside of your house. Stay healthy and take care.
Old Glory always flies proudly at Dungeon University. Working on a video on speed painting all 100 minis in Hate. Now. Stay tuned.
Thanks for this video! Now I'll be prepared to paint the few hundred miniatures I purchased. Deep Madness, Wild Assent and Altar Quest. 👍
Those Orcs look amazing on camera. Should have put in the citadel paint spill that ruined your pants.
I probably should have. LOL!
Good lord, this is quickly becoming one of my favorite channels... I was hooked with the ultimate dungeon terrain, and this sealed the deal. I love any project that lends itself to amateurs with pro results. Subbed, liked, bell'd, and thanks!
Thanks! Just finished "Ultimate Wilderness Terrain." Look for it within 2-4 weeks!
@@DUNGEONCRAFT1 Ha! I was just talking about this with a buddy of mine, hoping you'd do just that. Awesome!
LOOOOOOOVE this! I also use cheap paint brushes, and their fantastic. And the eye comment is 💯 spot on. I'm 57 and I've changed my painting approach based on what I can notice from arm's length 🤓
Funny you should mention that. I JUST taped a video on speed painting Frostgrave cultists and I repeat my advice. We painted 20 in 2 hours. Stay tuned.
Great video. I have Massive Darkness and this is the video I needed, as painting is my weakest skill set. I have backed a few kickstarters for the minis, another good place to look is Miniature Market a few times a years they have a clearance sale. Orcs Green > Blue but just slightly. HeroScape had blue orcs I think, That was an older way to get cheap pre painted minis.
Please put links (affiliate hopefully) to your supplies. I just googled and found if you have a link that will kick you back some coin all the better.
So glad I audited this class
You don't need to spend big bucks on paints! Wal-mart ColorPlace primer (actually made by Sherwin Williams), Apple Barrel craft paint at a whopping 50 cents per bottle (you will definitely need flat black), and some washer fluid. I've been painting buildings for my model railroad with those paints for YEARS and have done several BattleTech and D&D minis with the same paints. If the minis will see a lot of use, I highly recommend 3 coats of a clear flat to finish the job. My BattleMechs got that treatment and I've yet to have the paint job wear through or chip off.
ABSOLUTELY EXCELLENT VIDEO. My painting skillz are seriously lacking & this will DEFINITELY up my game. Thank You!
Your paint skills are not lacking. You just need to paint more! Enjoy!
Great video. Just did my first mini paint job ever with the Massive Darkness orcs. Wash: what an invention, really made a massive difference. The highlights on the raised areas at the end really transformed them. Really happy with the results. Now I have another hobby to funnel lots of money into!
Super video! I've probably posted on this before but I've got an eclectic collection of D&D minis that I am kinda proud of. I can use what I have to shape my game rather than trying to find 'that mini' to match a scenario. The biggest group of anything I have are goblins and it's a total of around 65. A varied group and a lot of my minis are ones I could get cheap and this includes re-based MageKnight minis. I started painting--intimidating at first--just to kind of fix how the pre-painted minis looked. I then painted some skeletons from scratch because they're an easy way to start. Eventually, I was painting a group of 20 Reaper Bones goblins. Just like you've done, you can paint in surprisingly little time. You get after sequencing (mainly what color to use as the base, then layer up from there) and great use of washes. The bottom line is that you need not have a super-duper paint job to play games AND any paint job is better than no paint job. I now enjoy painting and find it kind of therapeutic. Also, on the goblins, my party can engage with them at just about any level. Having 65 of them gives me a lot of flexibility as a DM and it keeps goblins in the game as tough opponents. Cheers from Korea!
Hi, Korea! I agree--painting is therapeutic. It's a form of meditation. I also agree that painting skeletons is a great place to start. It's easy to get decent results fast--and it may be worth making a video about it. Thanks for commenting!
I prefer the green scheme. As almost always, I enjoyed the video. Thanks for your time and efforts.
Green was certainly faster. Thanks!
I think the green stands out more on the UDT. So, the question I'd ask myself is, do I want sneaky (blue) or loud wild orks(green)?
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid lost the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Kieran Damon instablaster :)
@Mohamed Kyson I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Mohamed Kyson It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass !
@Kieran Damon You are welcome =)
Flying the Stars and Stripes on the front porch!
I like both flesh colour for the Orcs, and would probably go with a mix of both on the table :)
This method was definitely a winner for my Warhammer Gor Beastmen units. There was only one downside for me: boredom. Turns out I can't stand doing the same characters over and over. 😂
This brings back memories of many afternoons and evenings spent painting miniatures alone with music or with brother and then boyfriend, at home or at Games workshop. Good times.
I use mainly green for my orcs (I use LotR models), but to make them different from each other I tend to use different shades like sickly yellow green, camo green, dark green, but also leather brown, bleached bone, and some greys as well. A few even dwarf flesh. In my experience they look even scarier when they have a human skincolour.
The trick is to do it with friends. Then it's not so boring. Orcs with human skin? Hmmm....gotta try that!
Nice video. I've rediscovered my love for D&D/RPG's this past year, moving out of tabletop wargaming. I've spent way too much time over the past 30+ years doing much too detailed paintjobs on rank and file miniatures, and have started using a similar speed painting technique on small groups of minis saving my time (and eyesight) for the unique characters. I still can't bring myself to use an oil-based stain on miniatures though.
Take the plunge. I don't use them for the PC miniatures, but with orcs--which generally get a lot of handling--they're terrific.
Got my weekend plans set. Thanks Professor
This awesome just got back into it. I got hundreds of minis and I just keep buying and now I gotta start painting . I haven't even played yet
Enjoy the process!
So I did the strong tone thing for Zombicide: Black Plague for the zombies. It's okay. You don't actually save that much time as it' takes at least 24 hours to cure before you can move on. It also dries and becomes tacky very quickly so you gotta work fast.
I've always shaken the can of Strong Tone and it's fine. I'm not sure why shaking the can dries it??.
I'd also suggest putting on a large glob of it at the top of the mini and working it downward. the way you were doing it seemed like far too little and taking too long. It will naturally want to drain downwards and pool anyways. So you spread it out everywhere and then start dabbing it off where it pools too much. You gotta check the feet an clear them multiple times or you get large dark brown pools around their feet.
It works wonders to hide mistakes but the waiting to let it dry and then mat varnishing it to continue touching it up (your paint was not sticking after the Quickshade) takes forever.
Thanks for your thoughtful post. You are probably right about the glob at the top. I've found QuickShade takes 48 hours to dry. Cheers!
Great video! As I am no novice nor great painter, I always like videos like this to see if there is I can do to speed up my painting (Tabletop standard). I also like using the Army Painter Medium Stain as (IHMO) the strong is too dark! I finish with a semi gloss spray.
I just got in a ton of Gith. Now I have a good game plan on how to paint all those baddies. Thanks for the great video!
More BUDDY the Cat!
Seconded
Great Video Pro. DM. As someone who has tons of figures I’m always interested in new techniques for speed painting. I love both the green and blue schemes. I have Orcs of brown, gray, green, burnt orange, blue, and even red. Lol. Anyway I’m always up for more painting videos. Although, I Love all your content. Thursday’s are one of my favorite days since discovering your channel. Thanks again Pro. DM
Army Painter shades are a commercialized version of the original, "Dip Technique". They just market their own version of Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain, and sell it to gamers. The Minwax is identical, but at 1/2 of the price... I use Royal Walnut (dirty, muddy, dark brown color), but most people use Tudor, which is genuine black. I prefer the more, in-the-mud look, of Royal Walnut.
If you want to try it on a throw-away miniature, grab a plastic Army Man figure, and paint some Minwax on it. Let it dry for 48-72 hours. Don't even bother applying any paint to the Army Man figure! Just shade it with Minwax. You will be impressed at what a difference it makes.
"The Dip Technique" is the fastest way to paint armies of figures. For gamers, it is more than sufficient. As you stated, at arm's length, they look great! And the finish is incredibly durable -- they're covered in polyurethane over their paint! I play to enjoy the game. The painting is not the end, playing the game is! The paint is necessary, but at arm's length, and with, literally, hundreds of figures on the table, who cares if they're contest-winning paint work?
My mini's get played with, by me, and many other people, in my fantasy mass battles games. They get chipped, they get dropped, they break... That is normal, I expect it. If I spent 12 hours painting each individual figure, I would be crushed, and devastated by the normal wear and tear. My figures are fully painted, with 10 minutes of painting time, including "The Dip" application, and the clear coats. If they get damaged, "Oh, well. It happens. Let's keep playing!" Cheers!
Thanks for this tip, been intrigued by quick shades, but not at that pricepoint.
You are not incorrect. I pay for the consistency and want to know the model will look right the 1st time out.
I prefer the orcs green, but everything looks awesome. You give me confidence to try this myself. thx...
I'd love to see how fast The Prof could knock out a horde of minis using the new GW Contrast Paints.
They're a great choice for simple schemes and assembly line painting.
16 orcs with ork flesh, one of the browns and metal 45 minutes max and I was painting the massive darkness orcs and goblins
Seems that paint is way over priced might be good if they drop the price after all the hoopla dies down.
@@AlexBabcock-hw9iz One coat gives coverage, no time spent on shading or detail work. I can always make more money, but my time is a finite resource. For me they're worth more than the price I paid.
And expecting anything with the GW label to see a price reduction? 😂
Its gw, the price only goes up
I prefer green. Not sure the perfectionist in me will allow me to speed paint like this, but there are definitely some good ideas. Also, all the videos I've watched showing the heavy uses of thin inks, washes, and shades has given me some ideas I want to try out myself.
Another good tip is Citadel's new contrast paints. Not going to win you any competitions, but great for mass production and you can skip the shading phase. I did about 40 kobolds in roughly 2 hours (including small details, red eyes, and dry times aside from the Quickshade).
I'm going to feature them in an upcoming video. I'll paint two wizards, one with contrast paint and the other with shading/highlighting/glazing. Probably should get on that soon while the topic is still hot.
@@DUNGEONCRAFT1 We look forward to it!
Table ready! Sometimes you need ready and “good enough “ painted miniatures - not museum pieces- good looking miniatures!
The ork that looks better is the dead ork! Now give me my loot and thanks for the painting tips!
Hell yeah!!! Nicely done brother!
He reminds me of the Professor from Tolarian Community Challenge... great vid tho!
I enjoy this channel
I enjoy your viewership!
I feel like every painting video adds a new detail about finishing - Krylon spray varnish now? As one of the people that you've inspired to take up painting for the first time, I really feel like a thorough video dedicated solely to finishes would be massively helpful. I know it's not the sexiest topic but it seems like a void in the painting tutorial world. I have about 30 minis I've painted but I haven't finished because I don't have the confidence that I know everything about it yet. As always, great video and thank you!
Some folks apply a gloss clear coat of spray paint, followed by a matte clear coat. They say that the matte clear coat will eventually wear off, leaving the mini's shiny -- time to re-apply a matte coat. Glossy coats are more durable than matte, by a long margin... Never had that happen to my mini's, in 25+ years -- the matte coat has never really worn off, and I game with my mini's, in mass battles, so they get handled, a lot, by many persons.
I use Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain -- Royal Walnut -- Satin, which costs less than 1/2 of the Army Painter products, does the same thing, and is also oil-based. I do NOT paint highlights afterwards, but I'm an "army painter", painting assembly-line style, to get them done, ASAP. I average 10 minutes painting time, per figure, including the Minwax application. I use Satin, but it is still too shiny, so I finish with a matte clear coat.
Army Painter shades are originally known as, "The Dip Technique". They just commercialized "The Dip", selling their own version of Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain, and marketing it to gamers, at a much higher price point... It is the exact same technique. Just marketing hype.
Too heavy on the matte, and the figures will turn frosty white -- apply a clear, gloss coat, and re-apply a lighter matte coat. Videos will demonstrate, but in the end, you just have to take the plunge. Cheers!
Great suggestion. I will eventually make that video. I am still experimenting with varnishes. The trick is to avoid the "frost" that occurs when you spray matte over gloss. When I figure it out, I will make the video. Cheers!
I like the blue. Also like green. Mix of both good.
Prof. DM, For the Orcs, I would go with the green. However, you used a shiny finish on them. Considering what Orcs roll in...I am not sure a high gloss would tell the proper story. I would have flattened the Orcs and glossed the dwarves. After all, when would a dwarf ever be taught with rusty flat armor or weapon? :) Great video. Thanks for the continued education.
Thanks for the pro tips
I'm no pro--but you're welcome!
I strongly prefer green for orcs. The gray makes them look like they've never seen daylight. Is this what you were trying to portray? Great video, BTW.
Man that was fantastic!
Informative and helpful as always.
Thanks!
Thanks.. always awesome
You're welcome!
Now I have to paint a ton of minis: Zombicide [Green Horde + Wolfsburg + Black Plague], Hate (probably deserve some more time?) and a few RuneWars boxes (including base box + latari elves + a few extensions) + HeroQuest (and extensions (i already painted the heroquest 3D printed magnetic map and walls)) and SpaceCrusade (+3D printed terrain+map)+ SpaceHulk (3D printed map/terrain). It feels good acquiring them, but you are piling up "work" to do. I don't have as much free time as i would like to. I now think it's better to have "badly painted" minis rather than "not painted" minis. Part of me wants to keep them not painted to pass on to my kids to paint (when they're old enough). They''ll butcher the painting, but maybe that's what it'll take for them to feel invested.
I prefer the green. Really nice video.
I really appreciate your content, Professor^^ Thank you and please keep up the good work ^^
As for orc colors. Love them both. Can't we have rival tribes?
I may do this in my monthly campaign updates. Great idea!
Awe man, watching you spray those minis next to the flag made my heart skip a beat. 😁
I’m a old school Hero Quest Player.....green for me!
Great video. Thanks for the advice
Try using a 1 dollar makeup brush for dry brushing the metal highlights.
I recently picked up one of those small inexpensive "blush" brushes for that purpose. Looks like it would be perfect for dry brushing, but haven't used it yet.
@@NefariousKoel I went to a Walmart and bought a selection of different sizes and shapes. I've mostly settled on Elf and Wet N Wild brands. The superfine hairs are perfect for dry brushing without leaving a dusty transition.
Ever since I was a kid playing HeroQuest, I've always wanted nicely painted models… I've got a few of the WizKids prepaints and they're painted pretty flat and of course they're very rubbery, practically impervious to anything but cats testing them to make sure they're not made of food. (I do not recommend allowing them to do this. Although what is it with cats licking plastic shopping bags? Weird.)
Anyway, the prepaints are pretty flatly painted and don't have much detail to them-missing the wash and highlight steps? They're good enough I suppose.
But I just watched a guy paint a mummy the other day by priming in a bone white and … "Get a little wash on to your brush and," he scribbles like a madman for about 10-15 seconds, "There it's done!"
When I stopped laughing, I said, hey, I could do that! So I now basically have no excuse not to paint my mummies at least. I mean, I dunno about the orcs, goblins, armored warriors, etc. But mummies? A blind man could do that, and … I'm only legally blind so yeah! Others … we'll see.
I might still need to find a commission painter to do heroes, though. I can see the details close up if they're painted with lots of contrast, so I think I'd want them done well. Monsters? Ehh, whatever it takes to get them done and on the table.
This was really helpful, thanks. Any chance of a video of paint g with a small number of paints and varnishes? Not sure I can afford all of those colours and lacquers for the 30 figures I have to paint ?
I tried to get the paints to as few as possible. You can always make your own pale blue by tinting white with a small drop of medium blue. You can also save money by using Krylon Brown Spray Primer. Also, join the FB group and ask people what varnish they use in place of Quickshade. I know people do it, but I'm not sure which one is comparable. Cheers!
Green, Milord!
Just as humans come in multiple colors, Orks should too. Also it's easier to see if one model is always winning and beating the odds, a potential named anti-hero.
*if one consistently is extra badass, adding some special paint, a name/rank/title/reputation is a just reward for making the games that much better.
I prefer the classic green scheme, but both work.
Cool!
after their are dry from the quick shade MATT VARNISH them before you continue with his steps. if you are a new painter your going to pull your hair out painting on a gloss surface. besides that everything else is fine its a good way to get them to the table!!
Nice lawn
Nice strategy Professor, amassing an army to take over the dining room....does your wife know about this? lol Cheers!!
She loves killing orcs---in the GAME ROOM! She just slaughtered them last Sunday. The family that slays together, stays together. Cheers!
Would you cover diceless RPGs like Amber in a video?
GREAT question! I'd LOVE to do that video. I owned Amber & Everway. The problem is only about 200 people would watch it. More views drives the algorithm, which drives growth. My focus is growing the channel, and that means doing videos with a potentially large audience (10k+). I have to be ruthless about my content, so I won't have a video on that in the near future. It stinks, but it's how youtube works.
Love Amber RPG. There are 10k of us in shadow.
Hey prof is it possible to list the materials used in the video description? Thx!
Later today.
Awesome video! Personally, I don't shop at Hobby Lobby b/c they break the Wil Wheaton rule of gaming: 'Don't be a ' Hobby Lobby's owners sadly are,
I love your videos. You're so clear, insightful and entertaining. Really appreciate the content.
Would you consider setting up a patreon? You could do with a better quality camera as all of your great minis and dungeon hardware is blurry! With a patreon page, we could all contribute to the cost of a DLSR for you to take beautiful shots of all your hard work.
Here was my quickshade:
2 cups water, 2 cups future floor finisher, 4oz black ink, 4oz brown ink.
Wait 24 hours (I'm pretty sure) and spray with a Matte clear coat.
Also, this is a dip, so just drop the miniature in, take it out and clean up the pooling with a dry brush (in the same way you described.)
Can you shake it or should it be stirred?
Dustin Smith: good question... I have no idea. I really did neither unless it was REALLY old, and I just gently swirled it with the lid on (or tossed it because it was relatively cheap to make).
I would avoid shaking only because of bubbles.
@@broke_af_games9661 Details. What brand & color?
Dungeon Craft: (man I got to work on my name lol)
Anyway, the floor finisher I used was 'Future' floor finisher.
Inks, as long as it is an enamel ink, it should work. I've used Citadel black and brown, and just regular black India ink.
I'm sure vellejo will work perfect (that's the ink I mainly use now for painting and the consistency is the same, but I'd use vellejo sepia ink)
I've used blue ink when I wanted to do some yetis for my ogre army. But that was really the only technique I knew, however I know on a boat washes and such I would've just done that because I only had six yetis.
I can see somebody using it for a large demon army
NEVER USE WASHES... They don't work at all with this concoction. There is just some sort of compatibility with the floor finisher and the enamel of the ink that washes just don't have.
I dun messed up the recipe. I made the edits above, it should be 2 cups of water 2 cups of floor finisher. If you already made it and it doesn't seem to come out too thin, awesome but Worst-case all you Got to do is add a bit more ink
I wish I could find Massive Darkness for $45.00 in Japan, the game is ridiculously expensive here. I’ve seen it going on amazon for over $300...No Sir.
I like both colors of the orcs but the blue ones have something that feels like dark magics has been used on them.
Would it be faster to dip and shake?
Wait you can spray in the rain? I thought that the humidity destroyed spay can paint.
It was only drizzling. I had to stay on schedule to complete the video!
@@DUNGEONCRAFT1 ohh okay.
Equally good on the colors by the way!
I would love to attempt this stuff, but I have no artistic skill when it comes to this type of thing. Give me an instrument and its a different story, but this... Aaaaagh! Lol. I want to do my Resident Evil and Doom board game.
It just takes practice--much like playing an instrument!
This channel blowing up
I like the green orc, the blue one looks ill, hypoxic to me.
I know this is an older video, October 2023 today. But you need to add a disclaimer not to do the washes on your house. I was painting porch posts and my wife wondered I painted at all. I told her I gave it the weathered look and she said that she wanted the freshly painted look not what it looked like.
Awesome. ._.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
green orcs are best forsure
Cool! They were way quicker to paint.
I make my own quick shade strong tone
Perfectly acceptable for the experienced and brave. You can share your formula here or on the Facebook group!
@@DUNGEONCRAFT1 I'm no longer on Facebook as I have had my account on there hacked several times I got fed up with it.
The recipe here is as follows there are other variations this is the one I prefer. if you prefer to varnish your figures just leave the Modge podge out and add a measure of Medium.
All the measures or parts are done up to the 2 CL mark on a little plastic shot glass. Use a pippet or dropper bottles it's more accurate and less messy.
I part ink ( this can be any colour if you like to experiment but if you want strong tone it's a mixture of Black in with a bit of Sepia ink chucked in)
1 part Medium
1 part Modge podge ( this seals the figure if you prefer to varnish leave it out add 1 part medium instead)
8 parts water
1 small drop of washing up liquid
once you've got it in a pickle jar or container mix it with a tongue depressor give it a really good mix then let it stand ( their might be bubbles from the washing up liquid) then give it a try. if it's too runny or pools too much add a drop of medium until you get the result you want if the opposite is true a little bit of washing up liquid should sort it out.
I hope this is helpful to folks out there
@@andrewtate4897 Cool! Thanks!
I hate looking at the pros models. they depress me as I can't do that a yet my OCD fights me on it. So I avoid looking at their stuff. It is important to note. Details at 12 inches will be lost on the table. One figure that I overdid on details looked just as good as a non-detailed figure when I put them on the table. Think about that. Remember time is a commodity so use it wisely.
I model railroad as well and railroaders have some great colors. Grimmy black is awesome. Also, I black wash everything. dry brush after for highlights and I avoid shinny colors unless it is for treasure or metal.
Does Massive Darkness come with that many orcs or did the Prof. mix multiple sets?
Zombicide Green Horde is where the orcs come from.
Nope. That's a single set.
I can't find those brushes on the hobby lobby site anymore. Do you have a link?
No. I've seen them online.You need to go to the physical store. They're not in the paint aisle. They're in the crafting aisle.
How do these orcs compare size wise to Reaper orcs?
Hmmmmm....don't have any reaper orcs. Measured the orcs against a couple of Reaper minis. They're about the same size.
GREEN ORCS!
Is it just me or does the quick shade stay sticky FOREVER! Even after removing most of it it stays forever tacky. I’ll wait 3-4 days and it will stay sticky. I then while it’s sticky do my lighter touch ups for high lights on outer edges. I then wait for anther day then spray varnish all over it so it drips off bottom. If I do it too early pain runs.
Oh easily the green orc
GREEN ORC; orcs are green.
Duly noted (they are certainly WAY easier to paint).
Just shared with a big English group
Green Orcs. Save the blue for smurfs.
blue one :D
Thanks for watching!
You should use both of them to have a campaign where orcs are racist to each other because of their skin colour. The players would be stuck between the two factions and chose to do errands for both of them.
That's a funny idea and I might have used it my monthly campaign if I had thought of it!
Hmm green blue red yellow purple a very interesting mix of orc skin tones. All in their tribes with their own quirks and specialties.
blue skin for cave dwellers and green for surface dwellers
That's a pretty good idea.
💥💯🙌 great vid! gave me some ideas for my channel!
Cool! Glad to be of help!
Hallo. I made an intro music for you... do you have a public email so I can send it to you?
dungeoncraft@yahoo.com--that's thoughtful but I can't guarantee I'll use it. I'll check it out, though.
Blue
blue, I'm getting sick of green orks.
what so cheap about your pro paints?
“Cheap and easy” Yeah, lemme just buy nearly $60 worth of paints and washes. That totally qualifies as cheap.
Welcome to painting
It totally does. If you get into even casual painting you'll spend hundreds on materials alone.
@@TheTchad78 Not at all. I got into painting a few months ago and only had to spend about $35 on materials. You can do great work with some of the reaper paints and walmart brushes. Calling Citadel paints and washes "cheap" is ridiculous.
@@_myst_4267 some reaper paints are okay. GW washes are absolutely the best and worth every penny.
@@TheTchad78 I agree that they're much better, but that has very little to do with my point. My problem is him putting "cheap" in the title while using around $70 worth of paints and washes. His title is very misleading and clickbaity.
Green Skins need green skin.
Why is everyone pronouncing vallejo as Valayhoe? The V is B in spanish. The double L is a J. And the H is CH. You pronounce vallejo as Bajecho.
Lovely video though. Keep a t it.
I do it because ' everyone else on youtube does it. I will try to correct this in future videos. Thanks for commenting!
@@byronhamilton8021 ah ok. But the paint is from spain. We also say hundai to hyundai and not heeejundie right?
@@byronhamilton8021 not really. But ok. Ive never said mai chel angelo. I guess in europe we try and pronounce words as close to their original pronounciation as possible. Except for wifi. That sounds different everywhere
@@byronhamilton8021 i get to decide what bothers me. No im dutch.