HELLO EVERYONE WE HAD A CAMERA MISHAP SOMEWHERE AROUND THE 15-MINUTE MARK SORRY ABOUT THAT BUT BASICALLY I USED THE DRILL TO TAP THE HOLE JUST BE REALLY CAREFUL WHEN YOU DO IT AND IT WILL TURN OUT FINE.
@@SalterRacingEngines I like to say thank you very much for your guidance and you are giving away a very big tip. You are giving away your experience. Thank you for your UA-cam channel mate. It’s helped a lot. Cheers mate Mark from Australia.
Great tip. I have some 426 hemi nascar engines from pettys has these tricks and few more done to them for oiling. One has lifter bore bushings soldered in place. Maurice made them idle over 2000 rpm to oil cam. He thought was if engine dropped valve it wouldn’t lose oil pressure and they could finish race if it still ran. There are small holes next to top of lifter bore down into galley so the solid mushroom lifter would fill with oil. Then below it’s a fine mesh screen to slowly drain oil and keep just enough oil to have cam in an “ ankle deep” puddle of oil. Then on top is a bigger mesh over the open area above cam in case of failure parts don’t end up on the cam to damage it. I’ve never seen anyone show this to the public.
Thank you again Brian for some valuable information to make a motor make power and LAST… it is very expensive to replace perishable components much less entire engines after the initial investment.😳👍🙏
I would pay money to spend a couple days learning from you. If you ever decide to have a small scale training program about some basic modifications that you have came up with, I would be very interested. Thank you for sharing.
That is a great idea! I have never thought of oiling the lobes that way. For the last 25 years or so, i have grooved the lifter bores on the leading side of the lifter bores. I also have the lifters refaced to 3 degrees if the look suspect. Doing it that way i have had no failures on my small or big block chevy builds on anything from my hydraulic street cam to 650 lift solid flat tappet 7800 rpm rave engine. Mostly dirt track small blocks and a few 600 plus lift big blocks.
Thanks for all the tips and tricks you spent many years perfecting. I'll probably never use the info, but I just love thinking I'll build another motor some day.
Wish I'd seen this before my last build 9 years ago. I'm running a Howard's solid roller 110183-10 (237/243 @ .050 w .592" with 1.6 :1) on the street. I tapped the holes between the lifters for vent tubes in the valley cause I was under the impression roller cams didn't need as much lube as flat tappets. I also added wrist-pin oilers (cause I run about 5 psi boost from an electrically driven Paxton Novi 2000 on occasion) plus one in the center gallery plug up front for the full-roller chain; and though I'm running a Melling HV shark-tooth, I'm just under 10psi oil-pressure warmed up at idle of 800 RPM. Somebody told me Smokey said 7 psi for every 1000 rpm was good and I hope so cause I don't want to wear the distributor drive gear anymore than I have to. I've had better luck with the composite gear I'm on now than the bronze. Do you think valley vents are a plus or should I have left them out for more oil on the cam? I don't think .592 is too radical with my dart II heads that have rev springs under them; and I went with the bushing lifters rather than the needle bearing ones. It'll go up to 8K without floating but I set the rev limit @ 6.5K just cause I'm paranoid.
Thanks for sharing this tip i have never heard of anyone doing this to a stock sbc block this is why you are a great engine builder the engine has to live in order to win thanks for sharing
I`ve never seen that before(air jets) to oil lobes. Great idea. I have drilled holes abve the T/C cover, to oil cam from both ends and drilled out the main oil gallery to 1/2 inch but never thought of oiling the cam lobes directly......cool beans!
Thanks all the tech in this video! Fortunetly my small block Mopar has priority main oiling already. Rebuilt 4.7 bored 50 over or I wouldn't have known. Really liked a prior Cam video, looking to design a pair of dohc 4 valve heads for this thing being only sohc now. Already get 6500rpm off the current 2 valve heads so dropping the reciprocal mass of the lifters and rockers and switching to dohc should gain alot more rpm potential. Already zero decked but have to figure out what valve lengths and piston to valve clearances are needed. Cams will deff need to be custom as this engine has zero aftermarket support. Thanks again!
Hello from SD. Once again thanks for the talk earlier. Im going to try and silver solider some pipes to off the OEM spray bars and directly oil the Type 2 rockers. Im going to also order rockers (finger followers) from other engines to compare
I thought about just drilling holes one time but I didn't. The air bleeds is a great idea. A old man that use to race around here one time told me that if he took a motor apart he would not clean the cam because I was full of oil because the cast iron would soak it up so I started soaking my cams before assembly and I don't have cam failures fo you think that really helps or am I just lucky
Thank you for the informative videos. For the diy guys building street engines this is invaluable. I wish someone would show stuff like this for Honda k series engines.
Your recommendation on a drag and drive maybe 600HP 421 Small block Chevy with a hydraulic roller cam as far as the mods you described. Thanks for the great videos!
I extensively modified my oiling system on the 355 I just built, I never considered the oilers. I'm running a roller cam. There isn't a sharp edge in or outside the block, the entire interior of the block has been polished as well, it's better than glyptol as it never flakes. I'm running a hv Sharktooth pump set to std pressure.
Mr. Salter I do not know the SBC so all I needed was a yes or know you didn't say one way or another and rewatching the video didn't help I just can't drill into my block without being specific I'm a Ford man and I'm willing to try but not without being specific thanks
You can buy , from Comp. Cams, a solid flat tappet lifter with, i think a .012 thou.. bleed hole in it..Or Howards solid flat tappet lifters with, i think, a .022 thou. Hole. Your set up will work great with hydralics. Hope this helps.
@SalterRacingEngines this is really good stuff. I really liked drilling the front cam journal bore to balance out the oil pressure feeding the cam tunnel.
Front feed only! The oil from a rear feed pump leaves very little oil to start opening up oil passages on the front of the engine. If you're turning the engine to a high rpm constant. Not a good idea !! For street. Idle pressure will be very low. Gm set your passages to work up to 7000 rpm . Look at tec books. Never drill a block.. you can't undrill it .. Clocking the cam bearings is about the only way you'll add stability to your oil system. Never drill your block. Your oil pressure at Idle especially if your using an automatic transmission will be low enough to hurt bearings in traffic 😢
@@DAVIDLEE-r6z I have a hydraulic flat tappet sbc engine running howards direct lube lifters and the oil pressure never changed. HV pump. I have a big block going together with Jones mechanical flat tappet direct lube lifters and they have a .026 edm hole in the face. I'm not expecting oil pressure problems.
Brian, one of the well known camshaft companies advertised a "grooving tool" that would cut ( dig, scratch) a .012" groove in the side of the lifter bore to add oil to the lobe, ahead of rotation. The tool can not be found, and several people have told me that there is a chance of cracking a cast iron block ( Ford 302). This was to aid in the supply of oil for flat tappet lifters, either solid or hydraulic. Have you seen one and what are your thoughts please.
@@SalterRacingEngines no guarantee that it will work on that application, but I thought I'd mention it. If it works, it would likely save significant time.
A nugget of Gold! Is this safe on a 4.3L V6 Chevy Vortec block? I believe there is only one galley, but not sure. This would be for a roller turbo street/strip engine.
I despise keyless drill chucks. I have ruined more drill shanks due to them than I have by wearing out and breaking drills. I prefer the keyed chucks so the shank does not have to be filed so they will fit the drill index. Does anyone make a good one? I doubt it. I went onto the Holley website and tried finding these 6/32 emulsion jets. I was not successful. Seems the smallest they listed was 0.020" and they were not available. Blanks are available but for me to successfully drill holes with a drill bit that is 0.020" with a #76 number drill bit that is only 3/4" long and be using my Atlas 6" lathe with a fixture to thread the jets into would be a bit of work with some added expense. My drill chuck does not go small enough so I would have to get one. Drilling brass can be tricky due to it being sorta gummy. Bits that small can be broken easily. I don't own a sensitive drill press and they are very costly. I then thought of using brass set screws but they would require a stepped hole so they could bottom out and still need to be drilled. I am glad I purchased the lifter grooving tool a while back and when I am done, hopefully I can sell it. I like the idea but I have hit a big bump in the road.
Hey Brian great stuff I’m subscribed ! So I’ve got a 496 and was told my hi volume oil pump is gonna fill my valve covers full of oil do you ever use restrictors ? I running a Howard’s solid roller thanks 👍
Thank you it's possible he grooved it because he was using what's called a keyed lifter And that is a lifter that uses a little notch that slides up and down in that groove he cut into the lifter bore. That would be my guess I mean that's the only reason that I would do that
Hey I just hit me what you're talking about. A few people will use what's called a broaching tool to basically scratch a groove down the lifter bore to make sure oil gets to the cam lobe
Excellent tips, would you perform these mods if you were running a mild cam upgrade below .450" max and still using a stock spring? The cam and lifters I'm going to install are new old stock pieces that have been sitting on a shelf over 30yrs.
Yes I want to drill every single block I get my hands on. I'm not saying it's absolutely necessary it's just what I think is best to do. It's nothing else at least drill the cam tunnels so you can lube it from both sides
@@mikebrown4429 yes when I was 16 years old I built a 304 in a school bus. That was the first AMC style engine I ever did. I later have done some 390s and other engines like that. But not a lot of them.
other channels say the howard's hole in the lifters are not that good. are you using howard's are do you have someone that can put holes in some good lifters? they also say some of the cams don't have the right taper on the lobe. what f.t. cam and lifter company have you found that has a good product?
Yes still use them they're great. But I always bore the cam tunnel for better oiling on both ends and if I'm running a ton of spring pressure on a flat tappet I put in the oilers like I show you here
@@richardmoerke9329 yes we can do this to any block. Sometimes it might be a little different approach sometimes I might use -4 lines and fittings but yes we can do this to all of them
Great question and know you would have far too much risk of the oil not going where you want it to. By using the air bleeds I can directly choose how much oil I want and the direction in which it shoots out. And if I don't like it I can always put a blank in and plug the hole
I always use high volume oil pumps but I know how to control the oil flow and that's why I said you need to put the pan on and test everything before you final assembly it
One thing that's bothering me though, and I have thought about this for other mods for cam/lifter oiling as well, but the oil coming out would hit the front side of one set of lobes while hitting the back side of the other set of lobes. One lobe and lifter are in the direct path of the new incoming oil, so get great oiling, but the other is getting sprayed after the fact, unless I'm losing my mind and not thinking about this correctly. Wouldn't most of that oil just get whipped off of the lobes not in the "incoming" oil stream? I'm not trying to start anything or insulting; I'm just thinking about the process as this happens. It seems to be the same when using the other tool that Comp sells, their "lifter bore grooving tool". I have thought about how to best use that tool, and it seems that you'd want to groove the side to "oncoming traffic" if you will. Otherwise, if you groove the topside of all the bores, it sprays oil into one set of lobes as the lifters are coming into contact with the lobes, and the other set of lobes would be getting sprayed after the lifters have already been up, over, and down the lobes. Maybe just the fact that we are spraying extra oil onto the cam lobes is enough? I guess it must be helping if you're seeing success with this. Thanks Brian, I appreciate the info!!
@@patrickm.8425 brother you ain't offending me at all I mean we've been doing this for years so I'm going to do it regardless but to your point no you're not thinking about it correctly because the oilers are in the center of the block maybe the camera view confused you. Now that I think about it it probably did but go back and watch that part where I drill the oil holes and you'll see I am dead center of the block so it oils the cam lobe completely all the way around. I think it was the camera view that might be throwing you off.
Because if you don't like what you've done you can put a blank air bleed in and plug the hole Plus the are bleeds are precision made to shoot the stream dead straight and it gives you complete control of how much oil you want to put on the camshaft
@@SalterRacingEngines ok thanks 👍I have a 283 bored .30 flat top two valve relief pistons what cylinder heads would you recommend for a high RPM screamer
@@peanut7105 well the only problem with that engine is you can't put much of a big valve in it because the boar is so small If you had anybody close by that knew how to do it you could relieve the top of the deck and get a much bigger valve in or you can get heads or you actually slide the valves over a little bit But give me some more information like what you think your compression ratio will be and how you plan on driving it because if you want to drive it on the street that might change it a little bit as opposed to All out Racing so just give me a little more information
@@peanut7105 trick flow makes a super 23 175 cc head you can start with that unless you got something custom built Personally I put that 283 crank in a 350 or 400 block if you really wanted to sing the blues with that thing But yeah with the 283 that you're only limit is the bore is so small
Thanks for responding I was looking to make a little hot street motor pistons are .010 in the hole I have a set of 601 and a set of 416 and power pack heads I was thinking the 601s would get me around 10.5 maybe 11.00 with right head gasket that seems to be hard to find was hoping to turn around maybe 7500 with these heads probably want make much power lol I like the option you mentioned was hoping for around 400 to 425 HP that might be wishful thinking I have seen 350 to 400 spacers didn't know they made any for the small journal crank to work in the 350 block any suggestions on a head gasket part # and bearing spacer # thanks for your time awesome channel
Thanks for the info I'm building a 2.3 right now. A spray bar is a great idea. Should I just use a piece of tubing and drill small holes in the side of it ? What diameter would you recommend ? Thanks for the videos this is one of my favorite channels.
I'm in Australia , we didn't get the 2.3 Lima eng , we got the European 2l pinto , they use a spray bar to lube the cam etc . If you look for pics of the head , this might help you .
BE SURE TO WATCH PART 2 OF THIS VIDEO IT WILL BE COMING OUT VERY SOON
@@SalterRacingEngines cool. Thanks!
HELLO EVERYONE WE HAD A CAMERA MISHAP SOMEWHERE AROUND THE 15-MINUTE MARK SORRY ABOUT THAT BUT BASICALLY I USED THE DRILL TO TAP THE HOLE JUST BE REALLY CAREFUL WHEN YOU DO IT AND IT WILL TURN OUT FINE.
@@SalterRacingEngines I like to say thank you very much for your guidance and you are giving away a very big tip. You are giving away your experience. Thank you for your UA-cam channel mate. It’s helped a lot. Cheers mate Mark from Australia.
Now this is the kink of info no one shares with the public. Good stuff Brian!
Yeah I get off on oiling systems too definitely my kink as well😂
I love kink info!! lol
Great tip. I have some 426 hemi nascar engines from pettys has these tricks and few more done to them for oiling. One has lifter bore bushings soldered in place. Maurice made them idle over 2000 rpm to oil cam. He thought was if engine dropped valve it wouldn’t lose oil pressure and they could finish race if it still ran. There are small holes next to top of lifter bore down into galley so the solid mushroom lifter would fill with oil. Then below it’s a fine mesh screen to slowly drain oil and keep just enough oil to have cam in an “ ankle deep” puddle of oil. Then on top is a bigger mesh over the open area above cam in case of failure parts don’t end up on the cam to damage it. I’ve never seen anyone show this to the public.
Awesome Content
Appreciate you sharing these gold nuggets of knowledge
Hello From Australia, a little while back I was told you were a great engine builder. Many Regards From Down Under.
Tip from old carby guy, start the jets with a wooden/bamboo skewer, no grease and no mess.
@@johnlynch3124 block hasn't been washed yet and they would be took back out so it's not a big deal. Was just doing this to show people how it's done
Thats a great idea brian .theres flat tappet failures everywere across the world.thanks for the info to help solve this big problem
Thank you for sharing this. Not all HP machine shops know this or are willing to share. Looking forward to your next video.
Thank you again Brian for some valuable information to make a motor make power and LAST… it is very expensive to replace perishable components much less entire engines after the initial investment.😳👍🙏
I would pay money to spend a couple days learning from you. If you ever decide to have a small scale training program about some basic modifications that you have came up with, I would be very interested. Thank you for sharing.
That is a great idea! I have never thought of oiling the lobes that way. For the last 25 years or so, i have grooved the lifter bores on the leading side of the lifter bores. I also have the lifters refaced to 3 degrees if the look suspect. Doing it that way i have had no failures on my small or big block chevy builds on anything from my hydraulic street cam to 650 lift solid flat tappet 7800 rpm rave engine. Mostly dirt track small blocks and a few 600 plus lift big blocks.
Great information. The extra oil both provides generous lube and dissipates heat from the cam and lifter. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for all the tips and tricks you spent many years perfecting. I'll probably never use the info, but I just love thinking I'll build another motor some day.
thank you for your service. your thinking is OUTSIDE of the box
Wish I'd seen this before my last build 9 years ago. I'm running a Howard's solid roller 110183-10 (237/243 @ .050 w .592" with 1.6 :1) on the street. I tapped the holes between the lifters for vent tubes in the valley cause I was under the impression roller cams didn't need as much lube as flat tappets. I also added wrist-pin oilers (cause I run about 5 psi boost from an electrically driven Paxton Novi 2000 on occasion) plus one in the center gallery plug up front for the full-roller chain; and though I'm running a Melling HV shark-tooth, I'm just under 10psi oil-pressure warmed up at idle of 800 RPM. Somebody told me Smokey said 7 psi for every 1000 rpm was good and I hope so cause I don't want to wear the distributor drive gear anymore than I have to. I've had better luck with the composite gear I'm on now than the bronze. Do you think valley vents are a plus or should I have left them out for more oil on the cam? I don't think .592 is too radical with my dart II heads that have rev springs under them; and I went with the bushing lifters rather than the needle bearing ones. It'll go up to 8K without floating but I set the rev limit @ 6.5K just cause I'm paranoid.
Thanks for sharing this tip i have never heard of anyone doing this to a stock sbc block this is why you are a great engine builder the engine has to live in order to win thanks for sharing
A little oil on your drill bit would hit
I`ve never seen that before(air jets) to oil lobes. Great idea. I have drilled holes abve the T/C cover, to oil cam from both ends and drilled out the main oil gallery to 1/2 inch but never thought of oiling the cam lobes directly......cool beans!
Great job Bryan again.Thanks for your help.Your videos are appreciated
🤙Thx for the great tips and tricks! AND Thx Brian for sharing..... 🏁🏁
What a brilliant video! Excellent camera work too! Thanks for sharing this!
Great info Brian, always looking for more.
Thanks
Thankyou heaps for sharing your knowledge . Very much appreciated . Hi from Australia 👋
Excellent info, Brian. Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks all the tech in this video! Fortunetly my small block Mopar has priority main oiling already. Rebuilt 4.7 bored 50 over or I wouldn't have known. Really liked a prior Cam video, looking to design a pair of dohc 4 valve heads for this thing being only sohc now. Already get 6500rpm off the current 2 valve heads so dropping the reciprocal mass of the lifters and rockers and switching to dohc should gain alot more rpm potential. Already zero decked but have to figure out what valve lengths and piston to valve clearances are needed.
Cams will deff need to be custom as this engine has zero aftermarket support. Thanks again!
@@ryandeweese363 priority main oiling does not lube the cam lobes. So you still make consider doing this
Hello from SD. Once again thanks for the talk earlier. Im going to try and silver solider some pipes to off the OEM spray bars and directly oil the Type 2 rockers. Im going to also order rockers (finger followers) from other engines to compare
Never seen that before pretty neat tip.
And dont forget that on a wet sump it is also important to make sure the extra flow to the top end can drain properly back to the pan.👍
Fantastic idea for sure !👍great tip will definitely try it out
Thanks Brian, useful information, appreciate it.
Great video, I will be doing this. I always grind a slot in lifter for better oiling.
Great information thank you
I have used the comp cams lifter bore scribing tool.
Great tip Brian,appreciate ya brother
This is freaking awesome! Thanks for sharing your knowledge/experience.
@@cs2-llc thank you put the word out man tell people to subscribe
Never saw anything like that. Brilliant! Thank you.
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Brian awsome content
I thought about just drilling holes one time but I didn't. The air bleeds is a great idea. A old man that use to race around here one time told me that if he took a motor apart he would not clean the cam because I was full of oil because the cast iron would soak it up so I started soaking my cams before assembly and I don't have cam failures fo you think that really helps or am I just lucky
Thank you for the informative videos. For the diy guys building street engines this is invaluable. I wish someone would show stuff like this for Honda k series engines.
Your recommendation on a drag and drive maybe 600HP 421 Small block Chevy with a hydraulic roller cam as far as the mods you described. Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks Brian.
I love this kind of info. Thanks man.👍
I extensively modified my oiling system on the 355 I just built, I never considered the oilers. I'm running a roller cam.
There isn't a sharp edge in or outside the block, the entire interior of the block has been polished as well, it's better than glyptol as it never flakes. I'm running a hv Sharktooth pump set to std pressure.
Thank you for your service
Another great video I know the Ford 302 have the same plugs in the front of the motor same principle right definitely enjoy this knowledge
Great tips, thanks!
Thank you for this information
Thanks for sharing
Mr. Salter I do not know the SBC so all I needed was a yes or know you didn't say one way or another and rewatching the video didn't help I just can't drill into my block without being specific I'm a Ford man and I'm willing to try but not without being specific thanks
I appreciate the videos..
great info the cam turns half the rpm the crank does at 8 thousend the cam turns 4 thousend not info for you but for the viewers.
wow!! great content
Love these tips and tricks, even if it is for a sbc. Would love to see some sbf stuff as well if you mess with them.
Thanks, buddy
I aint gonna lie i still get a little nervous any time i power tap anything😂
Wow I really like that one. I like my motors to last.
nice work thanks for the great videos
You can buy , from Comp. Cams, a solid flat tappet lifter with, i think a .012 thou.. bleed hole in it..Or Howards solid flat tappet lifters with, i think, a .022 thou. Hole. Your set up will work great with hydralics. Hope this helps.
Yes those are called EDM lifters I talked about them in my other video and even this video thanks for the comment
Good stuff!
Very cool.
Too good!!!!
Machinery's handbook, Speeds and Feeds!!
Thank you for this info!!!!!
Nice!
Awesome info nice tip thanks
im going to try it on my next block
Thanks
@SalterRacingEngines this is really good stuff. I really liked drilling the front cam journal bore to balance out the oil pressure feeding the cam tunnel.
What! From feed feed only!
Front feed only! The oil from a rear feed pump leaves very little oil to start opening up oil passages on the front of the engine. If you're turning the engine to a high rpm constant. Not a good idea !! For street. Idle pressure will be very low. Gm set your passages to work up to 7000 rpm . Look at tec books. Never drill a block.. you can't undrill it .. Clocking the cam bearings is about the only way you'll add stability to your oil system. Never drill your block. Your oil pressure at Idle especially if your using an automatic transmission will be low enough to hurt bearings in traffic 😢
You could possibly tap and plug those passages if it doesnt work out.
@@DAVIDLEE-r6z I have a hydraulic flat tappet sbc engine running howards direct lube lifters and the oil pressure never changed. HV pump. I have a big block going together with Jones mechanical flat tappet direct lube lifters and they have a .026 edm hole in the face. I'm not expecting oil pressure problems.
Brian, one of the well known camshaft companies advertised a "grooving tool" that would cut ( dig, scratch) a .012" groove in the side of the lifter bore to add oil to the lobe, ahead of rotation. The tool can not be found, and several people have told me that there is a chance of cracking a cast iron block ( Ford 302). This was to aid in the supply of oil for flat tappet lifters, either solid or hydraulic. Have you seen one and what are your thoughts please.
Yes basically it's a broaching tool. All you doing is just barely touching it you don't need a deep groove in like a broaching tool is capable of.
Excellent advice, does that apply to big blocks as well? Big blocks are notoriously hard on flat tappet cams.
Standard practice on NASCAR engines for decades.
GreenLee makes a self tapping drill bit set that has the 6-32 bit in it.
@@FiteTheGoodFight oh that's pretty cool
I was laughing at my drill chuck that thing was wore out. Lol
@@SalterRacingEngines no guarantee that it will work on that application, but I thought I'd mention it. If it works, it would likely save significant time.
Thanks Brian, that's great info for any flat tappet guy. Subscribe guys, it costs you 0 and helps get the video out to more people....
A nugget of Gold! Is this safe on a 4.3L V6 Chevy Vortec block? I believe there is only one galley, but not sure. This would be for a roller turbo street/strip engine.
Great Tip
How might you go about this with an LS style engine without the center oil galley!?
Sometimes I will use -4 hoses and just go about it a different way
Does this work on Chevy Big blocks?
Does this same piling trick work on Ford's ???
@@rchardsmith605 yes
I despise keyless drill chucks. I have ruined more drill shanks due to them than I have by wearing out and breaking drills. I prefer the keyed chucks so the shank does not have to be filed so they will fit the drill index. Does anyone make a good one? I doubt it.
I went onto the Holley website and tried finding these 6/32 emulsion jets. I was not successful. Seems the smallest they listed was 0.020" and they were not available. Blanks are available but for me to successfully drill holes with a drill bit that is 0.020" with a #76 number drill bit that is only 3/4" long and be using my Atlas 6" lathe with a fixture to thread the jets into would be a bit of work with some added expense. My drill chuck does not go small enough so I would have to get one. Drilling brass can be tricky due to it being sorta gummy. Bits that small can be broken easily. I don't own a sensitive drill press and they are very costly. I then thought of using brass set screws but they would require a stepped hole so they could bottom out and still need to be drilled. I am glad I purchased the lifter grooving tool a while back and when I am done, hopefully I can sell it. I like the idea but I have hit a big bump in the road.
Hey Brian great stuff I’m subscribed ! So I’ve got a 496 and was told my hi volume oil pump is gonna fill my valve covers full of oil do you ever use restrictors ? I running a Howard’s solid roller thanks 👍
have you ever opened up the oil galleries for more oil flow ? (I sold my last 67 Chevelle in 1996 but its always nice to learn new things)
Yes
Drill needs a tune up..😂😂
Lol yeah that things had it
Brian I seen a video short where a guy put small groove in each lifter bore...what do you think? Like your idea..Thanks
Thank you it's possible he grooved it because he was using what's called a keyed lifter
And that is a lifter that uses a little notch that slides up and down in that groove he cut into the lifter bore.
That would be my guess I mean that's the only reason that I would do that
Hey I just hit me what you're talking about. A few people will use what's called a broaching tool to basically scratch a groove down the lifter bore to make sure oil gets to the cam lobe
Would a m-55 meling oil pump work for that application for oil holes
Yes. With .012 holes
Excellent tips, would you perform these mods if you were running a mild cam upgrade below .450" max and still using a stock spring? The cam and lifters I'm going to install are new old stock pieces that have been sitting on a shelf over 30yrs.
Yes I want to drill every single block I get my hands on. I'm not saying it's absolutely necessary it's just what I think is best to do. It's nothing else at least drill the cam tunnels so you can lube it from both sides
@SalterRacingEngines sounds good, thank you and take care...
Most oiling tricks I have heard of pertain to crankshaft. The top end was overlooked, or assumed to have plenty.
Question, Brian. Does this also work with performance blocks?
@@laytonturpin864 yes
Have you ever built an AMC engine ?
@@mikebrown4429 yes when I was 16 years old I built a 304 in a school bus. That was the first AMC style engine I ever did. I later have done some 390s and other engines like that. But not a lot of them.
Will that be 16 air bleeds on a V8
Does this same thing go for Mark 4 BBC's as well?
@@patrickm.8425 yes it's a great idea for every engine that you're going to have a high performance camshaft in it only helps it would never hurt.
other channels say the howard's hole in the lifters are not that good. are you using howard's are do you have someone that can put holes in some good lifters? they also say some of the cams don't have the right taper on the lobe. what f.t. cam and lifter company have you found that has a good product?
Crower and isky have best flat tappet lifter with hole
What about the EDM hole lifters?
Yes still use them they're great. But I always bore the cam tunnel for better oiling on both ends and if I'm running a ton of spring pressure on a flat tappet I put in the oilers like I show you here
Can you do this to a la mopar or does it not work for them?
@@richardmoerke9329 yes we can do this to any block. Sometimes it might be a little different approach sometimes I might use -4 lines and fittings but yes we can do this to all of them
Why put the air bleeds in there couldnt you just drill a small hole and leave it that way.
Great question and know you would have far too much risk of the oil not going where you want it to. By using the air bleeds I can directly choose how much oil I want and the direction in which it shoots out. And if I don't like it I can always put a blank in and plug the hole
It would be hard drilling that many .020" holes .
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Nobody is showing this!
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Don’t need to run a high volume pump?
I always use high volume oil pumps but I know how to control the oil flow and that's why I said you need to put the pan on and test everything before you final assembly it
One thing that's bothering me though, and I have thought about this for other mods for cam/lifter oiling as well, but the oil coming out would hit the front side of one set of lobes while hitting the back side of the other set of lobes. One lobe and lifter are in the direct path of the new incoming oil, so get great oiling, but the other is getting sprayed after the fact, unless I'm losing my mind and not thinking about this correctly. Wouldn't most of that oil just get whipped off of the lobes not in the "incoming" oil stream?
I'm not trying to start anything or insulting; I'm just thinking about the process as this happens.
It seems to be the same when using the other tool that Comp sells, their "lifter bore grooving tool". I have thought about how to best use that tool, and it seems that you'd want to groove the side to "oncoming traffic" if you will. Otherwise, if you groove the topside of all the bores, it sprays oil into one set of lobes as the lifters are coming into contact with the lobes, and the other set of lobes would be getting sprayed after the lifters have already been up, over, and down the lobes.
Maybe just the fact that we are spraying extra oil onto the cam lobes is enough?
I guess it must be helping if you're seeing success with this.
Thanks Brian, I appreciate the info!!
@@patrickm.8425 brother you ain't offending me at all I mean we've been doing this for years so I'm going to do it regardless but to your point no you're not thinking about it correctly because the oilers are in the center of the block maybe the camera view confused you. Now that I think about it it probably did but go back and watch that part where I drill the oil holes and you'll see I am dead center of the block so it oils the cam lobe completely all the way around. I think it was the camera view that might be throwing you off.
By the way if that doesn't answer your question hit me back
Seems redundant to drill and tap then install the air bleeds. Why not just drill the hole the size you want and be done?
Because if you don't like what you've done you can put a blank air bleed in and plug the hole
Plus the are bleeds are precision made to shoot the stream dead straight and it gives you complete control of how much oil you want to put on the camshaft
Are the air bleeds the standard type of countersink type
@@peanut7105 it's a small Holley air bleed 6/32 thread.
It's not countersinked
@@SalterRacingEngines ok thanks 👍I have a 283 bored .30 flat top two valve relief pistons what cylinder heads would you recommend for a high RPM screamer
@@peanut7105 well the only problem with that engine is you can't put much of a big valve in it because the boar is so small
If you had anybody close by that knew how to do it you could relieve the top of the deck and get a much bigger valve in or you can get heads or you actually slide the valves over a little bit
But give me some more information like what you think your compression ratio will be and how you plan on driving it because if you want to drive it on the street that might change it a little bit as opposed to All out Racing so just give me a little more information
@@peanut7105 trick flow makes a super 23 175 cc head you can start with that unless you got something custom built
Personally I put that 283 crank in a 350 or 400 block if you really wanted to sing the blues with that thing
But yeah with the 283 that you're only limit is the bore is so small
Thanks for responding I was looking to make a little hot street motor pistons are .010 in the hole I have a set of 601 and a set of 416 and power pack heads I was thinking the 601s would get me around 10.5 maybe 11.00 with right head gasket that seems to be hard to find was hoping to turn around maybe 7500 with these heads probably want make much power lol I like the option you mentioned was hoping for around 400 to 425 HP that might be wishful thinking I have seen 350 to 400 spacers didn't know they made any for the small journal crank to work in the 350 block any suggestions on a head gasket part # and bearing spacer # thanks for your time awesome channel
Thank you, that was very informative, I'll be looking forward to trying this on my next build. 👍👍🤏
Thanks for the info I'm building a 2.3 right now. A spray bar is a great idea. Should I just use a piece of tubing and drill small holes in the side of it ? What diameter would you recommend ? Thanks for the videos this is one of my favorite channels.
Seconded. please make a vid about it
I'm in Australia , we didn't get the 2.3 Lima eng , we got the European 2l pinto , they use a spray bar to lube the cam etc . If you look for pics of the head , this might help you .
Yes around .015 drill
@@user-gk7dw7ss4m Right on thanks !
@@SalterRacingEngines Thank you sir that's what I was thinking going by how you did the Chevy.