Very interesting and I guess I made the right choice! I'm a n00b to woodworking... only had a "new" bailey #4, but wanted a 2nd longer plane for jointing, flattening, truing, etc. Found a pretty mint series15 #6 yesterday and bought it! Good price, esp for its' condition... waay cheaper than even a rusty #5-1/2! I was contemplating very hard bn a #5 and #6 (to pair with my #4)... but was worried a #5 would be too similar to the #4, and I'd maybe just use that all the time and never the #4 anymore. So, I think a #6 is a better difference... #4 for smoothing and general work, and a #6 for jointing, truing and flattening. It's kinda like camera prime lenses... you usually skip the next focal length, or double it... to minimize your kit weight, size and/or cost. eg: if I had a common 50mm lens (#4 plane), then another typical 35mm lens (#5 plane) is kinda similar.... so, I got a 24mm (#6) instead! Also, a 24mm is kinda similar to a 35mm too (I could always just easily crop the 24mm pic to get a 35mm fov). ...a nice "gap" in your minimal kit of lenses (or planes), while still being most versatile. Also... like you mentioned in video... #6 is like half the cost of a rare #5-1/2 (esp one that's not completely rusted), and a 1/3 the price of a #7! #6 is a wonderful thing! Not to mention it also has a wider blade than my #4 (same as a #5-1/2).
Excellent review of model numbers! I have a modern #4, #5 that's probably from the '50s or '60s, and a #8 from late 1800s. There are excellent resources online to help identify the eras. My favorite is the #5 as it was the most forgiving when I started.
Lol! I love the mini-rage at the beginning while talking about what planes are "needed". I feel the same way on forums when my fellow newbies ask entry level plane questions and get blasted with, "You absolutely NEED these 20 planes or you will suck forever!" Glad to see a pro preaching moderation and simplicity for once. Thanks a million Mr. Wright!
My first plane was a Craftsman (built by Stanley) #5 equivalent and I discovered that I really liked the length and width. So I bought a few more. Since then, I have turned all of them (I have 4 of them now) into scrub planes (I do a lot of milling and need fresh ones on hand regularly). I just bought two brand new planes, a WoodRiver #6 to help me with mounting lumber as it gets dry, and a WoodRiver #5 1/2. I really enjoy the 5 1/2 because I have large hands and it fits better, more comfortable to work with (sometimes for hours on end as I lose track of time). I plan on forgoing a #4 and going with a #4 1/2 for the same reason. Not trying to tell anyone I'm right and they're wrong, but simply what I've found works for me. P.S. I'm painting all of my old planes olive drab.
This so true. I bought 4 planes at an auction for $12.50, restored one for my dads Christmas present. I was bitten by the aracticus planicus. Next thing you know, I have over 20 planes.haha
Purchased a used Stanley/Bailey G12-005 (Made in England). Needs some clean up to be fully functional. Looking forward to using it on the entry table project
Now I have something to look for when I go to antique malls. I do own one plane, a rather beat up Craftsman from probably the 70s. No number on it, but it looks about comparable to a #4. I'll need to spend some time on it and see if I can't tune it up a bit. Thanks for sharing!
you prolly dont care but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot my account password. I love any help you can offer me
@Conrad Keith i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I agree 100% with you in that these planes can be used for pretty much any job. Hey I just found out about a 1/2 hour ago that my two No 2 Stanley planes are a collectable tool and are pretty expensive, shucks I found one at our local garbage dump and I got the other one at a garage sale for 2 dollars. I collect, restore and use antique and vintage tools for all my projects and jobs. Last week while garage saleing I got a cast aluminum Cummins 1/4 inch drill and a cast aluminum Porter Cable skilsaw, both work perfect. They sure don't make tools like they once did, shucks today when a tool fails for any reason, most guys just chuck them away and buy another cheap chinese one.
One has to collect them. Once you have them, and chisels, and good saws and learn to sharpen them, then you can become a woodworker. The love of the tool can get it all going. I love them all.
I’d like to highly recommend reading the submitted questions and the informative replies. There’s a treasure trove of additional good information to be had. Thanks for all your efforts James.
The ones i use the most are my type 17 4 1/2 love it because of the heavier casting my type16 no.6 which i have set up as a panel smoother (its my favorite) my type 11 no.7 it was a gift from chop with chris at the Atlanta woodworking show and i use it constantly. I am also lucky enough to have a stanley 40 1/2 that i bought for $20 and i love it. I upgraded all the blades to Hock 01 steel because its what i prefer. I have plenty of other but those are my main users
Good summary and totally agree with you. I started out with the #4 and now, like you, have all of them (became a collector as well as a user). Now I've taken it even further in my sick OCD mind and have bought all of the L-N equivalents. Oh well. I do use many of them, though.
I started reconditioning my Dad's number 4. Nothing special about it with the exception of it was my Dad's. Then I reconditioned other block planes. Oy, then the money started to fly out the door with purchasing brand new US and Canadian made planes. Not upset in the least. Just poorer. My favorite plane; Veritas' shooting board plane. I make a ton of small mitered boxes. LOVE the shooting board with the Donkey Ear attachment. Hands down, my favorite specialty plane.
That’s a great video James. It cleared up many of my questions about the Stanley numbering system but, on course, left many questions too. Obviously, as you pointed out, most of the Stanley numbers end up just being random numbers with no logic to how they fit into their tasks. Now I need to expand my collection. I could have used a jointer this past week.
What brand is your iron on the No.4 with rounded top? I know it doesn't affect it's actual use, but it still stinks that your 5¼ has a hang-hole. Nice collection and explanation. For right now, I have a 3 (unfortunately the sole is cracked and the tote and knob are broken on this one), 4, 5, 6, 7, and a 8. The quarter and half sizes are very rare around my area so people charge a crazy amount for them. 😞 Keep up the great work!
Z Just for information, I was an indentured carpenter and joiner apprentice in the early 1970's in the UK. The tools we had to provide were a block plane, a 4 ½ smoother and a 5 ½ jack. I never saw the even numbers until I came to the US.
Enjoyed your video...I would like to see you do a video on how you sharpen the blade for each of these planes...mainly what planes you put a camber on the blade and how you put the camber on and the degree of camber. Thanks again!
I just ordered my first plane off eBay. If it’s anything like bikes or boat motors, guitars, etc., having just one means I will maintain and use it better.
Hello, I have a Stanley numbered "C74 1/2" - 14 in. long 2 1/2in. wide ! Wondering where's this one fit ?? Also, will be using my old entrylevel Stanley no 4 for my next Scrub Plane, so should I select another number 4 for my ForePlane or Am I better to select a number 5 for a ForePlane ? Many thanks, Robert
A 74 is a floor plane. It is used for planing wooden floors. Using a #4 or #5 is just a personal preference. I prefer the #5 but many people like the #4.
@@WoodByWright Is this 74 1/2 - 14 inch long may be used up as a Foreplane, cause it's the same length as a number 5 ? Furthermore, what are the Arc lengths for the camber of both, the Scrub Plane plus the Foreplane ? Many thanks, Robert,
Thanks for the info!! I just picked up a large jack plane labelled "No 5A" and I have no clue what manufacturer made it... That's the only label on the toe of the plane and there is nothing on the rest of it! Hoping someone in the comments may know a tad more, but I am stumped, my dudes!
@@WoodByWright It appears to be cast iron, with a corrugated sole. Lever cap is blank and there is no engraving/stamping on the adjustment lever. How do I find your email?
Excellent once again. One Q: when carving a new tote, which way should the grain of the wood be traveling? Should it be parallel with the direction of force, should it go vertical and parallel to the bolt holding the tote to the shoe, or should it be somewhere in between? what is your take on it? Thanks again, James.
Hello James. I love your videos. The traditional woodworking style is very interesting to me, and you have inspired me to explore the possibility of getting into it. Your videos help give confidence to beginners as your videos are very informative and detailed. Love what you do. Keep it up. Thanks for posting.
I just started woodworking, and I mostly make dining tables, which are 4 2x10’s put together. I try to make sure they are all level when I glue them together, but that doesn’t always work out. Which plane do you think would be best for leveling that out?
If you come across a topic that I don't already have a video on let me know but most of them I hit at one point or another though I do like to update them every now and then as video quality is changed.
Thank you for making the great content you do! Also you timed this video perfectly, I have been looking at buying another plane as I have a small block plane but I want a larger one to go with it.
I built my first wooden plane last year, then another and another and another, am I a plane builder now? I use a Stanley block plane, a wooden #5 a wooden #7 and a wooden rebate plane. They can do everything I need, but I'm going to build a wooden #3 next for smoothing duties.
@@WoodByWright thanks... I agree I love my home made tools. The only thing better than using a tool you made is using it to make yet another tool. I've been a fan for a while and your videos about making your wooden smoother plane were part of the inspiration to just make one.
I spy with my eye a very special iron in your No. 4. Amazing steel and I had loved to use mine in my No. 5. Great cut straight from the factory and even better after I took it to my stones.
Thanks for that video im just starting to get into hand tools. I got and restored or reworked a Bailey no5 and a stanley rule level & co no35 and I had a blast learning about them and there history and getting a amazing finished product I do have a question though one I have been digging for a answer for a long time I got into spoon carving and can't find a good reliable long lasting finish that can stand up to heat with stiring a pot of soup I use butcher block oil and after a couple uses and washing's it goes right out I would like to make and sell them but I can't do that if they don't have a reliable finish I hope you can help or point me in a good direction thanks keep up the great videos
that is the bain of wooden spoons. There is no finish that is food safe and will last for a year. General finish makes Salid bole finish that will last a bit but needs to be re oiled every now and then. I use home made BLO I find it to last the most. but I still re oil once every 6 months (do not use store bought BLO it is not food safe) in the end that is just part of owning good wooden spoons and cutting boards they need to be re oiled from time to time.
TRAP, start to woodwork with hand planes, no number of hand planes are enough, for every job you encounter there is a plane that just nails it. So you buy hand planes that fit your mantra. Then you look at vintage etc. do I need to say more. My advice, and every D.F..K has the so called holy grail of planes lol. So my choice 4, 5, 6. low angle jack plane, block plane. These will do all you want and more. James is a good person he will do you no wrong in what to buy. cheers from Tasmania
Great video James! I got a quick question if someone can help me.. I got on my hand an old Rapier 700 (just like a Stanley 7) and I'm in the journey of restoring it... the blade is super used so Im looking for a new one but from where I am (Chile) I can't find replacement for a No 7, so.. the question is, can I use for example a No. 5 blade on a No. 7???
@@WoodByWright Thanks for the response! I ended up buying an old blade.. but it turned out to be a thicker blade from a wood plane.. I modify my plane and now cuts quite good, still need to do some modifies, but its working! another question.. are Rapier planes any good? can't find much of them on internet. Best wishes and thanks for this amazing channel!
Love stanley planes , I have n 3 , 4 , 6 and looking to have n 5 or 7 . 🤔 After 2 years of tuning my planes you might full in love with specific one in my case n 3 😍 .
Like the video a lot, I have quite a lot of planes, love them all, just wondering if you could do a video on how to sharpen the knicker /spur, that's on the 50, 45, 55, 78, please, and as I have great difficulty in getting them sharp
What are your thoughts in "transitional" planes? I have a jointer and a jack plane of the style, and I'm not sure if I'm getting the most out of my work using them.
Oh no - you spelt my name wrong at 0:39 - lol. I love these planes and have recently bought a job lot of 23 (3, 4, 5, 51/2 only one from US of A though!) for restoration and use. Also have just got a 6 and a 7. You have a great collection. Love your videos.
Wood By Wright What I didn’’t mention was that they were all completely disassembled by previous owner - a box of frogs - a box of all the screws washers brass and aluminum depth adjustment wheels - you get the picture . There is one USA body. The problem I now have is to match all the parts together. As they are mostly UK planes - not much guidance as they were all a bit of a mix anyway - some US parts and some from UK. Should keep me quiet for a few months though!
Now that I'm a "plane collector", here's my minimum list, 1 block plane for fine work 1 block plane for home improvement 1 junk block plane for the 3 year old to use 1 #4 or #5 set for smoothing 1 #4 or #5 set for roughing 1 #6, #7, or #8 for jointing and bench flattening And a rabbet plane is nice now and then...
OK I got a Stanley #5. I was wondering how do I tell what type it is? And it’s missing the blade and all the components that go to the blade on my Stanley #5, where can I get the replacement parts for it?
For parts I normaly go down the list on online sellers On HandToolFinder.com. to tell the type I go to here hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php
The Stanley five and a quarter. Is it labeled 5-14? That would be five minus a quarter. Or, 4.75. (I read that somewhere, and don't remember where.) steve
Very informative info just what I needed as an old newbie. I notice you have a lot of Blue Stanleys in your line up. I am wanting to get a 4 and 5 but have read the Blue painted Stanley USA made ones are just not as good as the old pre 1960's planes. Do think that is true or is there a bit of plain old plane snoberry? :) Some of my guitar bretheren who think a 1960's Gibson ES330 is so much better than a 70's or 80's or new production which IMO and years of guitar experience is not always true, some are some aren't. Many new production guitars today are even better than a lot of older vintage. Anyway, back to planes I want a 4 and 5 to actually use. Your advice please on Blue vs Black
My blue planes are ones that I have completely restored stripped down and repainted. I paint them blue just because I like the color. However the blue Stanley handyman planes are not quite as good as the older planes. that doesn't mean they're not decent users that just means they're not quite as good. They take a little bit more work to set up and can be a little more finicky but will still do decent work.
bevel down is best for smoothing. bevel up shines for end grain, and it is nice for beginners as it is simpler, but in most other things bevel down is the better road.
James, great info here. I have recently taken ownership of my grandfather's Stanley #3 and #5 planes. I am new to woodworking all together and honestly, I am a power tool guy. I would like to get into making boxes. Oh yeah, the question, can I use either of these two planes in a shooting board for miters? What would be the best plane for that application? Can I just make my #3 a bevel up plane. Thanks and again, great info in this video. Even though I am a power tool guy, I just subscribed.
the #5 would make a great shooting plane. that is what I used for a long time tell I got a LOJP. no, the #3 is a bevel down plane. almost all planes are bevel down. it seems counter intuitive but it gives a cleaner cut.
Thanks again James. I've got the whole series in corrugated. (Started with a couple inherited). For anyone wanting to really dive into Stanley numbers, look up a site called "Patrick's blood and gore". He's got the whole system including comments about each one. There's a LOT of Stanley planes
Thanks for your videos leaned alot. I have a butcher block countertop. I sanded it stained it few years back made a big mess with all the dust though out the house. I believe its oak wood not sure how to tell. But if i where to do a #5 plank and a sanding block & paper by hand would that be a option? I also have a fairly long half inch wide crack behind my sink in the wood from the water over the years. Whats the best way you'd recommend repairing that. Thanks again for vidoes.
That sounds like about the best option for me. if the plane is set up right you won't even need to sand it you can just go right off the plane. As to the crack why don't you send me a picture of it and I can take a look at it. You can find the contact me page on my website or my email is in the about me tab here on UA-cam.
Lol that is what happens when they introduce intermediate sizes after the others. Corigated bottomed were advertised to be easier to push, though they are not. They are easer to flatten though.
that is a really personal choice. personally I use the #7 far more then the #8, but many people are different. on top of that the #8 is usually worth a bit more.
I recently discovered your channel and really enjoy the content. I haven’t seen all your videos yet but I was wondering if you could demonstrate a curved dado- like what you would see on a roll top desk.
I inherited a #4, found/restored a #7, and have 2 block planes (smooth and crunchy). I have no need for more tools ... just better technique. Thanks for the $0.02.
I use a No. 4-1/2 unless I'm using a No. 5 or No. 6, but that's only during the 6th Wednesday of the month when a witch flies across the full moon on Valentine's Day. But if it's not a full moon then I go to the No. 8 for 4" pieces of 1/2" thick balsa, except when...
Help me, I’m joyfully collecting also I’ve got 3-7 so far. The #3 I got in yesterday!... I did my homework and it’s one of those “ww2,or after” planes that everyone says not to buy 😭😫 (Through an eBay pic I thought it was a type 16 😡 NOT an 18) “I at least got a brass adjustment knob on it ,not the black plastic one for what it’s worth 😒.” But is this plane worth fixing up? or should I call it a loss and look for an earlier #3 ? I hate to admit it but... $50, I paid friggin $50 Did I flat out rob myself?, or just burnt a bit?
Don't worry man That's still a great playing and we'll do fantastic work. just because it's not the perfection of a type 12 doesn't mean it's not worth the money. That is still a great using plane and will treat you really well.
Wood By Wright Awesome Sauce ! .... I knew it couldn’t be THAT bad, I can’t even remember now how it got in my head that “ww2 - after = trash” I’ll be breaking her down and cleaning all her lady parts within the next hour or so. 😁 Thanks ! ! I’ll be way more cautious when it comes time to buy that beastly monster #8
I have some specialty planes but when it comes to metal body bench planes ... I just have 3 grizzly hand planes that equate to a #4, #5 & #7 ... those 3 can do 99% of what I need. Loads of great info!!
James you rascal, there is no such thing as a No. 53. But you already knew that right? I had to look it up in my Stanley Tool Guide by John Walter. Unless I misheard you and you said No. 63. In that case there is a No.63 Low Angle Block Plane. I also noticed that the iron on your No. 4 has a rounded over top. I've never seen that on a Bailey before. My guess is that it is an after market replacement blade. While we're at it, that iron on your No. 5 is square on top. I have never seen that before. I'm guessing after market as well. That's why I enjoy collecting planes. It's the attention to detail. Stanley made a lot of planes and it's probably next to impossible to have an example of all of them. Unless you're John Walter. That guy is the ultimate authority on Stanley tools. I'm a member of M-WTCA and hope to meet you someday at one of our meetings.
LOL the 53 is an adjustable mouth spokeshave. I actually have one. the No.4 has a pre production iron from DFM tool works. so far i am in love with it. the no.5 had a Hock iron in it. good eye! Looking forward to seeing you at a meet I will be at the loves park meet and the national meets for sure.
You may want to have Ebay as a last resort, their prices are insane. May I recomend flea market, boot sales and M-WTCA meets? Takes longer but you'll likely save hundreds depending on what you want.
Craig Clapper thanks for suggestions but the flea markets here are not good and there aren’t any boot sales or swap meets. I’ve checked Craigslist and any that come up are crazy high pricing. I usually try and compare them to eBay and the ones on eBay are cheaper than what I can find local.
If I restore a tool for my own personal use and part of the restoration is paint or japanning removal then I paint it blue for my shop. I just like the look of it.
Welcome to Wood by wright. I do something fun in that title card on every video I use it on. Most of the time it's some weird misspelling but sometimes it is just an inside joke.
Nice overview of the different plane types. I'm waiting for one of the "my shop teacher said you should never lay your plane blade-down on the workbench!" zealots to chime in, though they may have fainted dead away once they saw the opening shot of the video.
Very interesting and I guess I made the right choice!
I'm a n00b to woodworking... only had a "new" bailey #4, but wanted a 2nd longer plane for jointing, flattening, truing, etc.
Found a pretty mint series15 #6 yesterday and bought it!
Good price, esp for its' condition... waay cheaper than even a rusty #5-1/2!
I was contemplating very hard bn a #5 and #6 (to pair with my #4)... but was worried a #5 would be too similar to the #4, and I'd maybe just use that all the time and never the #4 anymore. So, I think a #6 is a better difference... #4 for smoothing and general work, and a #6 for jointing, truing and flattening.
It's kinda like camera prime lenses... you usually skip the next focal length, or double it... to minimize your kit weight, size and/or cost.
eg: if I had a common 50mm lens (#4 plane), then another typical 35mm lens (#5 plane) is kinda similar.... so, I got a 24mm (#6) instead!
Also, a 24mm is kinda similar to a 35mm too (I could always just easily crop the 24mm pic to get a 35mm fov).
...a nice "gap" in your minimal kit of lenses (or planes), while still being most versatile.
Also... like you mentioned in video... #6 is like half the cost of a rare #5-1/2 (esp one that's not completely rusted), and a 1/3 the price of a #7!
#6 is a wonderful thing!
Not to mention it also has a wider blade than my #4 (same as a #5-1/2).
How can one ask do you need of course! We do and the best plane is the tuned sharp plane
Excellent review of model numbers! I have a modern #4, #5 that's probably from the '50s or '60s, and a #8 from late 1800s. There are excellent resources online to help identify the eras. My favorite is the #5 as it was the most forgiving when I started.
Sweet man. sounds like the start to a great collection.
OMG!!! Awesome! You just answered a bunch of my questions; numbering, type of plane, type numbering, order, size, etc, etc, & etc.
Thanks. Glad to help.
Every time I see your shop and your tools I re-examine my life.
LOL thanks
Lol! I love the mini-rage at the beginning while talking about what planes are "needed". I feel the same way on forums when my fellow newbies ask entry level plane questions and get blasted with, "You absolutely NEED these 20 planes or you will suck forever!" Glad to see a pro preaching moderation and simplicity for once. Thanks a million Mr. Wright!
Thanks Craig. A lot of people like to overthink it it's nice to let people know that they don't need everything but in time they will want everything.
My first plane was a Craftsman (built by Stanley) #5 equivalent and I discovered that I really liked the length and width. So I bought a few more. Since then, I have turned all of them (I have 4 of them now) into scrub planes (I do a lot of milling and need fresh ones on hand regularly). I just bought two brand new planes, a WoodRiver #6 to help me with mounting lumber as it gets dry, and a WoodRiver #5 1/2. I really enjoy the 5 1/2 because I have large hands and it fits better, more comfortable to work with (sometimes for hours on end as I lose track of time). I plan on forgoing a #4 and going with a #4 1/2 for the same reason. Not trying to tell anyone I'm right and they're wrong, but simply what I've found works for me.
P.S. I'm painting all of my old planes olive drab.
Cool. Like the color choice.
Fun stuff. You’re right, you start with a #4 or #5 then add one more and before you know it your a plane collector!
LOL yup that is how it goes!
This so true. I bought 4 planes at an auction for $12.50, restored one for my dads Christmas present. I was bitten by the aracticus planicus. Next thing you know, I have over 20 planes.haha
That's me. Got a 5 1/4, a 6, and an 8 this weekend.
Purchased a used Stanley/Bailey G12-005 (Made in England). Needs some clean up to be fully functional. Looking forward to using it on the entry table project
sweet man. that will treat you well!
Now I have something to look for when I go to antique malls. I do own one plane, a rather beat up Craftsman from probably the 70s. No number on it, but it looks about comparable to a #4. I'll need to spend some time on it and see if I can't tune it up a bit. Thanks for sharing!
Sounds like fun. I have a list in the description of the video of all of the places I find hand tools.
I have heard some used the no 1 as a block plane replacement during cold weather for ergonomics.
There are a lot of theories and ideas for what they were "intended" for. In they end they are a plane like any other
Thanks James. This is straight forward and is obviously a very confusing topic for newbies like myself!
thanks man! glad I could help out a bit.
you prolly dont care but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot my account password. I love any help you can offer me
@Julian Reese Instablaster =)
@Conrad Keith i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Conrad Keith it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
I agree 100% with you in that these planes can be used for pretty much any job. Hey I just found out about a 1/2 hour ago that my two No 2 Stanley planes are a collectable tool and are pretty expensive, shucks I found one at our local garbage dump and I got the other one at a garage sale for 2 dollars. I collect, restore and use antique and vintage tools for all my projects and jobs. Last week while garage saleing I got a cast aluminum Cummins 1/4 inch drill and a cast aluminum Porter Cable skilsaw, both work perfect. They sure don't make tools like they once did, shucks today when a tool fails for any reason, most guys just chuck them away and buy another cheap chinese one.
So true. Tools are made to be disposable now.
One has to collect them. Once you have them, and chisels, and good saws and learn to sharpen them, then you can become a woodworker. The love of the tool can get it all going. I love them all.
so true. for me it was the other way around. I got them to do the work, but then the work made me love them. and I needed more.
What about vintage Record planes? A lot of them can be had for great prices and I’ve seen some modeled after Preston as well as Stanley.
Top notch planes. I would put them along any Stanley out there. Though most pre war planes are that way.
My Veritas low angle jointer is my favorite. I like the feel and weight. I use it on things I shouldn’t.
Those a re a lot of fun!
I’d like to highly recommend reading the submitted questions and the informative replies. There’s a treasure trove of additional good information to be had. Thanks for all your efforts James.
Thanks Richard so true there's often just as much information in the comments as there is in the video itself
The ones i use the most are my type 17 4 1/2 love it because of the heavier casting my type16 no.6 which i have set up as a panel smoother (its my favorite) my type 11 no.7 it was a gift from chop with chris at the Atlanta woodworking show and i use it constantly. I am also lucky enough to have a stanley 40 1/2 that i bought for $20 and i love it. I upgraded all the blades to Hock 01 steel because its what i prefer. I have plenty of other but those are my main users
Sweet. you do not need many to do great work.
Good summary and totally agree with you. I started out with the #4 and now, like you, have all of them (became a collector as well as a user). Now I've taken it even further in my sick OCD mind and have bought all of the L-N equivalents. Oh well. I do use many of them, though.
LOL sounds about right!
I started reconditioning my Dad's number 4. Nothing special about it with the exception of it was my Dad's. Then I reconditioned other block planes. Oy, then the money started to fly out the door with purchasing brand new US and Canadian made planes. Not upset in the least. Just poorer. My favorite plane; Veritas' shooting board plane. I make a ton of small mitered boxes. LOVE the shooting board with the Donkey Ear attachment. Hands down, my favorite specialty plane.
sounds like a fun time. quite the slippery slope!
Great explanation! My dad had a similar collection so I grew up using these. Doing a lot of timber framing my favorite is the 10 1/2.
oh the bunny! that is a fun one.
That’s a great video James. It cleared up many of my questions about the Stanley numbering system but, on course, left many questions too. Obviously, as you pointed out, most of the Stanley numbers end up just being random numbers with no logic to how they fit into their tasks. Now I need to expand my collection. I could have used a jointer this past week.
Thanks. It is an interesting system that confuses a lot of people but it also makes it a lot of fun.
What brand is your iron on the No.4 with rounded top? I know it doesn't affect it's actual use, but it still stinks that your 5¼ has a hang-hole. Nice collection and explanation. For right now, I have a 3 (unfortunately the sole is cracked and the tote and knob are broken on this one), 4, 5, 6, 7, and a 8. The quarter and half sizes are very rare around my area so people charge a crazy amount for them. 😞
Keep up the great work!
Thanks. The one with the rounded top is a prototype iron for DMF toolworks. He should be selling them soon.
I’m a big fan of the millers falls planes. They seem on average a little heavier than the baileys
yup several of their types are thicker castings then some of the Stanley types.
I've also heard that Millers Falls have less slack in the blade depth adjuster. Heard that from several people.
Z Just for information, I was an indentured carpenter and joiner apprentice in the early 1970's in the UK. The tools we had to provide were a block plane, a 4 ½ smoother and a 5 ½ jack. I never saw the even numbers until I came to the US.
yup. a lot of people really like the wider planes. They are very efficient.
Enjoyed your video...I would like to see you do a video on how you sharpen the blade for each of these planes...mainly what planes you put a camber on the blade and how you put the camber on and the degree of camber. Thanks again!
I sharpen every blade the same. the only one I put a camber on is the scrub plane. I have a few videos showing both of those if you want to see them.
I just ordered my first plane off eBay. If it’s anything like bikes or boat motors, guitars, etc., having just one means I will maintain and use it better.
This is definitely a good summary of the topic - I wish I saw something like this when I was first starting out.
thanks!
Hello, I have a Stanley numbered "C74 1/2" - 14 in. long 2 1/2in. wide ! Wondering where's this one fit ?? Also, will be using my old entrylevel Stanley no 4 for my next Scrub Plane, so should I select another number 4 for my ForePlane or Am I better to select a number 5 for a ForePlane ? Many thanks, Robert
A 74 is a floor plane. It is used for planing wooden floors. Using a #4 or #5 is just a personal preference. I prefer the #5 but many people like the #4.
@@WoodByWright Is this 74 1/2 - 14 inch long may be used up as a Foreplane, cause it's the same length as a number 5 ? Furthermore, what are the Arc lengths for the camber of both, the Scrub Plane plus the Foreplane ? Many thanks, Robert,
Thanks for the info!! I just picked up a large jack plane labelled "No 5A" and I have no clue what manufacturer made it... That's the only label on the toe of the plane and there is nothing on the rest of it! Hoping someone in the comments may know a tad more, but I am stumped, my dudes!
Is it made of aluminum? That is usually what the A means. Feel free to email me pics.
@@WoodByWright It appears to be cast iron, with a corrugated sole. Lever cap is blank and there is no engraving/stamping on the adjustment lever. How do I find your email?
Excellent once again. One Q: when carving a new tote, which way should the grain of the wood be traveling? Should it be parallel with the direction of force, should it go vertical and parallel to the bolt holding the tote to the shoe, or should it be somewhere in between? what is your take on it? Thanks again, James.
I like it around 2 degrees off of parallel with the sole. most Stanley have the grain in parallel with the sole.
Hello James. I love your videos. The traditional woodworking style is very interesting to me, and you have inspired me to explore the possibility of getting into it. Your videos help give confidence to beginners as your videos are very informative and detailed. Love what you do. Keep it up. Thanks for posting.
Thanks man. That means a lot!
I just started woodworking, and I mostly make dining tables, which are 4 2x10’s put together. I try to make sure they are all level when I glue them together, but that doesn’t always work out. Which plane do you think would be best for leveling that out?
I would use 2 a #5 set fairly heavy to remove most of the material then a #4 or #3 smoothing plane to smooth it out.
Wow so much to learn as I am getting into woodworking with hand tools! I almost prefer this type of instruction over the build videos. Thanks James
thanks man! I have a long back log of these videos, but I like to remake them from time to time.
@@WoodByWright More of these training videos!
If you come across a topic that I don't already have a video on let me know but most of them I hit at one point or another though I do like to update them every now and then as video quality is changed.
Nice video! Would you recommend a hand plane to renovate a parquet floor?
I would use a scraper for that personally that works better for cross grain situations.
Thank you for making the great content you do! Also you timed this video perfectly, I have been looking at buying another plane as I have a small block plane but I want a larger one to go with it.
thanks! glad I could help!
Very informative, thank you. 🙏
I built my first wooden plane last year, then another and another and another, am I a plane builder now?
I use a Stanley block plane, a wooden #5 a wooden #7 and a wooden rebate plane. They can do everything I need, but I'm going to build a wooden #3 next for smoothing duties.
sounds like a great collection. there are few things as much fun as using tools you made yourself.
@@WoodByWright thanks... I agree I love my home made tools. The only thing better than using a tool you made is using it to make yet another tool.
I've been a fan for a while and your videos about making your wooden smoother plane were part of the inspiration to just make one.
I spy with my eye a very special iron in your No. 4. Amazing steel and I had loved to use mine in my No. 5. Great cut straight from the factory and even better after I took it to my stones.
yup. that is a pre production DFM Iron he is about to start selling. my #5 has a Hock Iron in it.
thank you James
my pleasure Walter
Thanks for that video im just starting to get into hand tools. I got and restored or reworked a Bailey no5 and a stanley rule level & co no35 and I had a blast learning about them and there history and getting a amazing finished product I do have a question though one I have been digging for a answer for a long time I got into spoon carving and can't find a good reliable long lasting finish that can stand up to heat with stiring a pot of soup I use butcher block oil and after a couple uses and washing's it goes right out I would like to make and sell them but I can't do that if they don't have a reliable finish I hope you can help or point me in a good direction thanks keep up the great videos
that is the bain of wooden spoons. There is no finish that is food safe and will last for a year. General finish makes Salid bole finish that will last a bit but needs to be re oiled every now and then. I use home made BLO I find it to last the most. but I still re oil once every 6 months (do not use store bought BLO it is not food safe) in the end that is just part of owning good wooden spoons and cutting boards they need to be re oiled from time to time.
TRAP, start to woodwork with hand planes, no number of hand planes are enough, for every job you encounter there is a plane that just nails it. So you buy hand planes that fit your mantra. Then you look at vintage etc. do I need to say more. My advice, and every D.F..K has the so called holy grail of planes lol. So my choice 4, 5, 6. low angle jack plane, block plane. These will do all you want and more. James is a good person he will do you no wrong in what to buy. cheers from Tasmania
Great video James! I got a quick question if someone can help me.. I got on my hand an old Rapier 700 (just like a Stanley 7) and I'm in the journey of restoring it... the blade is super used so Im looking for a new one but from where I am (Chile) I can't find replacement for a No 7, so.. the question is, can I use for example a No. 5 blade on a No. 7???
You can but it is not as wide. So it will not fill the mouth. But it will work, it just will not cut as wide in one pass.
@@WoodByWright Thanks for the response! I ended up buying an old blade.. but it turned out to be a thicker blade from a wood plane.. I modify my plane and now cuts quite good, still need to do some modifies, but its working! another question.. are Rapier planes any good? can't find much of them on internet. Best wishes and thanks for this amazing channel!
Love stanley planes , I have n 3 , 4 , 6 and looking to have n 5 or 7 . 🤔
After 2 years of tuning my planes you might full in love with specific one in my case n 3 😍 .
LOL yes there is always a favorite!
great video james i use a 5 4 and a block plane, also a few wooden body planes from Scottish shipbuilder
nice man. That is all you need!
Like the video a lot, I have quite a lot of planes, love them all, just wondering if you could do a video on how to sharpen the knicker /spur, that's on the 50, 45, 55, 78, please, and as I have great difficulty in getting them sharp
thanks I might have to do that. I normaly just freehand them on a stone but some times grip them in a pair of vice grips.
What are your thoughts in "transitional" planes? I have a jointer and a jack plane of the style, and I'm not sure if I'm getting the most out of my work using them.
they work great. and they feel fantastic! the only down side is they wear out faster, and the mouth can not be adjusted.
Need? No. Want? Yes. I think this is true for most of us...thanks James, that was informative.
so true. but I NEEED it. lol
This is interesting, thanks for your explanation
thanks my pleasure!
Oh no - you spelt my name wrong at 0:39 - lol. I love these planes and have recently bought a job lot of 23 (3, 4, 5, 51/2 only one from US of A though!) for restoration and use. Also have just got a 6 and a 7. You have a great collection. Love your videos.
Sweet! sounds like quite the find!
Wood By Wright What I didn’’t mention was that they were all completely disassembled by previous owner - a box of frogs - a box of all the screws washers brass and aluminum depth adjustment wheels - you get the picture . There is one USA body. The problem I now have is to match all the parts together. As they are mostly UK planes - not much guidance as they were all a bit of a mix anyway - some US parts and some from UK. Should keep me quiet for a few months though!
Now that I'm a "plane collector", here's my minimum list,
1 block plane for fine work
1 block plane for home improvement
1 junk block plane for the 3 year old to use
1 #4 or #5 set for smoothing
1 #4 or #5 set for roughing
1 #6, #7, or #8 for jointing and bench flattening
And a rabbet plane is nice now and then...
OK I got a Stanley #5. I was wondering how do I tell what type it is? And it’s missing the blade and all the components that go to the blade on my Stanley #5, where can I get the replacement parts for it?
For parts I normaly go down the list on online sellers On HandToolFinder.com. to tell the type I go to here hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php
The Stanley five and a quarter.
Is it labeled 5-14? That would be
five minus a quarter. Or, 4.75.
(I read that somewhere, and don't
remember where.)
steve
Very informative info just what I needed as an old newbie. I notice you have a lot of Blue Stanleys in your line up. I am wanting to get a 4 and 5 but have read the Blue painted Stanley USA made ones are just not as good as the old pre 1960's planes. Do think that is true or is there a bit of plain old plane snoberry? :) Some of my guitar bretheren who think a 1960's Gibson ES330 is so much better than a 70's or 80's or new production which IMO and years of guitar experience is not always true, some are some aren't. Many new production guitars today are even better than a lot of older vintage. Anyway, back to planes I want a 4 and 5 to actually use. Your advice please on Blue vs Black
My blue planes are ones that I have completely restored stripped down and repainted. I paint them blue just because I like the color. However the blue Stanley handyman planes are not quite as good as the older planes. that doesn't mean they're not decent users that just means they're not quite as good. They take a little bit more work to set up and can be a little more finicky but will still do decent work.
Very beautiful video... Compliment.
Witch is better for smoothing bevel up or down smoothing plane
bevel down is best for smoothing. bevel up shines for end grain, and it is nice for beginners as it is simpler, but in most other things bevel down is the better road.
@@WoodByWright thank you
James, great info here. I have recently taken ownership of my grandfather's Stanley #3 and #5 planes. I am new to woodworking all together and honestly, I am a power tool guy. I would like to get into making boxes. Oh yeah, the question, can I use either of these two planes in a shooting board for miters? What would be the best plane for that application? Can I just make my #3 a bevel up plane. Thanks and again, great info in this video. Even though I am a power tool guy, I just subscribed.
Actually, those planes from my grandfather are Stanley Bailey planes, if that makes a difference.
the #5 would make a great shooting plane. that is what I used for a long time tell I got a LOJP. no, the #3 is a bevel down plane. almost all planes are bevel down. it seems counter intuitive but it gives a cleaner cut.
Thanks again James. I've got the whole series in corrugated. (Started with a couple inherited). For anyone wanting to really dive into Stanley numbers, look up a site called "Patrick's blood and gore". He's got the whole system including comments about each one. There's a LOT of Stanley planes
thanks. yes that is a good one. he is missing several from the list, but I am sure he will fill them in in time.
Great review. Thank you for posting.
Thanks for your videos leaned alot. I have a butcher block countertop. I sanded it stained it few years back made a big mess with all the dust though out the house. I believe its oak wood not sure how to tell. But if i where to do a #5 plank and a sanding block & paper by hand would that be a option? I also have a fairly long half inch wide crack behind my sink in the wood from the water over the years. Whats the best way you'd recommend repairing that. Thanks again for vidoes.
That sounds like about the best option for me. if the plane is set up right you won't even need to sand it you can just go right off the plane. As to the crack why don't you send me a picture of it and I can take a look at it. You can find the contact me page on my website or my email is in the about me tab here on UA-cam.
confusing Stanley made crystal clear until numbers became quarters and halves, but well done, and why do some planes have grooves in the bottom plate?
Lol that is what happens when they introduce intermediate sizes after the others. Corigated bottomed were advertised to be easier to push, though they are not. They are easer to flatten though.
very informative video, thank you.
I have a #7 and #8 and want to sell one of them. Which would you sell?
that is a really personal choice. personally I use the #7 far more then the #8, but many people are different. on top of that the #8 is usually worth a bit more.
I recently discovered your channel and really enjoy the content. I haven’t seen all your videos yet but I was wondering if you could demonstrate a curved dado- like what you would see on a roll top desk.
thanks man. I do show that in one of my live videos. here you are. ua-cam.com/video/G4hA-auX85Q/v-deo.html
Hello! What does the 4 1/2, 5 1/2 and the 5 1/4 used for?
Same thing as all the others. Some times you want it to be a bit wider without being longer. That is where those fit in.
Thanks a lot!!
Thanks for sharing that
my pleasure man!
Which one (by preference) would you start with first if you were starting out?
eather a #4 or a #5
Muy buena colección de lo mejor
Gracias. el gusto es mio.
The laugh and then the cut lol. I can only assume you cut out the crying.
How about a draw knife vs a scrub plane?
Really enjoy your channel.
well most of the time the boards are far too wide for a draw knife. but for thinned stuff the draw knife is a lot of fun!
I'm no smarter than before I watched this, but still found it interesting. Thanks for making this. I'm not quite ready to start using planes.
Thanks you should give him a try the curls are just so much fun.
I inherited a #4, found/restored a #7, and have 2 block planes (smooth and crunchy). I have no need for more tools ... just better technique. Thanks for the $0.02.
Right on. that is all you need to do great work!
I wasn't paying attention to part of the video but all I heard was type 1 and I thought I was a plane for a second of diabetus 🤣
Love your content.
Thanks!
I use a No. 4-1/2 unless I'm using a No. 5 or No. 6, but that's only during the 6th Wednesday of the month when a witch flies across the full moon on Valentine's Day. But if it's not a full moon then I go to the No. 8 for 4" pieces of 1/2" thick balsa, except when...
LOL yes that's about the way it goes normally.
@@DavesRabbitHole Yes, joking. V-Day same here across the pond.
James, is it just coincidence or does it seem like you prefer prewar planes.
I like them tell around 1950 after that they start adding things that that I do not want and taking away things I do like.
Help me,
I’m joyfully collecting also I’ve got 3-7 so far.
The #3 I got in yesterday!...
I did my homework and it’s one of those “ww2,or after” planes that everyone says not to buy 😭😫
(Through an eBay pic I thought it was a type 16 😡 NOT an 18)
“I at least got a brass adjustment knob on it ,not the black plastic one for what it’s worth 😒.”
But is this plane worth fixing up? or should I call it a loss and look for an earlier #3 ?
I hate to admit it but... $50, I paid friggin $50
Did I flat out rob myself?, or just burnt a bit?
Don't worry man That's still a great playing and we'll do fantastic work. just because it's not the perfection of a type 12 doesn't mean it's not worth the money. That is still a great using plane and will treat you really well.
One of my users is a type 17 and the other one is a type 19.
Wood By Wright
Awesome Sauce ! .... I knew it couldn’t be THAT bad,
I can’t even remember now how it got in my head that “ww2 - after = trash”
I’ll be breaking her down and cleaning all her lady parts within the next hour or so. 😁
Thanks ! !
I’ll be way more cautious when it comes time to buy that beastly monster #8
@@andrewgarratt5191 sweet. Ya most say that after type 12-14 the quality goes down a bit but they are not bad tell after around 22.
Have a #4 and a block need one of the long ones in my life
there is always another!
thank you, this was really helpful :-)
I have some specialty planes but when it comes to metal body bench planes ... I just have 3 grizzly hand planes that equate to a #4, #5 & #7 ... those 3 can do 99% of what I need. Loads of great info!!
yup with those 3 you can do anything! nice man!
James you rascal, there is no such thing as a No. 53. But you already knew that right? I had to look it up in my Stanley Tool Guide by John Walter. Unless I misheard you and you said No. 63. In that case there is a No.63 Low Angle Block Plane. I also noticed that the iron on your No. 4 has a rounded over top. I've never seen that on a Bailey before. My guess is that it is an after market replacement blade. While we're at it, that iron on your No. 5 is square on top. I have never seen that before. I'm guessing after market as well. That's why I enjoy collecting planes. It's the attention to detail. Stanley made a lot of planes and it's probably next to impossible to have an example of all of them. Unless you're John Walter. That guy is the ultimate authority on Stanley tools. I'm a member of M-WTCA and hope to meet you someday at one of our meetings.
LOL the 53 is an adjustable mouth spokeshave. I actually have one. the No.4 has a pre production iron from DFM tool works. so far i am in love with it. the no.5 had a Hock iron in it. good eye! Looking forward to seeing you at a meet I will be at the loves park meet and the national meets for sure.
Do you need them all? Yes, yes I do.
lol You bet!
Whoever dies with the most tools wins....
I only use 3 planes: a #4, a blockplane and a 50 cm long jointer
Nice. That is all you need!
Wow! So helpful!
Thanks Mom!
I own a no5 and 5 1/2 which i use regularly. If you only need one, buy a 5 or 5 1/2
I scored an Ohio Tool Company # 5 1/2 today. What a find?
Nice. I have one of those I am planning on restoring here soon.
@@WoodByWright I would love to see a video on it. The real question is will it have red Hapsburg or metallic blue?
My first plane funnily was a Stanley No. 4 1/2 before I got a Record No. 4
Nice first plane.
I needed this. Great video, time to head to eBay!
LOL don't spend too much!
You may want to have Ebay as a last resort, their prices are insane. May I recomend flea market, boot sales and M-WTCA meets? Takes longer but you'll likely save hundreds depending on what you want.
Craig Clapper thanks for suggestions but the flea markets here are not good and there aren’t any boot sales or swap meets. I’ve checked Craigslist and any that come up are crazy high pricing. I usually try and compare them to eBay and the ones on eBay are cheaper than what I can find local.
Nice 5 1/2...
Why your Stanley planes is blue like a Record?
If I restore a tool for my own personal use and part of the restoration is paint or japanning removal then I paint it blue for my shop. I just like the look of it.
I know it;s hard, but please try to document what you can. 100 years from now someone will see your video and appreciate the effort.
Thanks. That's what I've been trying to do almost 600 videos now.
Stanly loved to count, woodbyright hate to spell check
Welcome to Wood by wright. I do something fun in that title card on every video I use it on. Most of the time it's some weird misspelling but sometimes it is just an inside joke.
Difference between Bedford and Bailey?
Bailey is a pattern of plane that Stanley bought. Benford is a fictional tool line in Home improvement?
are there numbers on this planes?
some of them on some types yes, but those changed over time.
I bought a "Great Neck" 8 planer, I don't know much about planers
The older ones are great planes. just like any other plane just longer.
The millers falls lineup would go..
7,8,9,10,11,14,15,18,22,24
Which gets annoying because when looking for a no7 there is also an 07 which is their skew rabbeting block plane.
LOL yup that is why people still call them by the Stanley numbers.
I’d highly recommend the harbor freight #33. Hahahaha
LOL it works fantastically as a door stop.
How do you choose a plane? Dull blade, dull blade, dull blade, sharp blade
LOL yup. that is often just the way it is!
Great topic James! rr Normandy
thanks Richard. and congrats on first!
Nice overview of the different plane types. I'm waiting for one of the "my shop teacher said you should never lay your plane blade-down on the workbench!" zealots to chime in, though they may have fainted dead away once they saw the opening shot of the video.
LOL yes. I love those comments!