Another way to use the vinegar with longer pieces of steel would be to use PVC tubing. Just glue and end cap on , insert your angle iron, square tubing etc, then pour in the vinegar. Stand it up right, put on cap and wait. Thanks for sharing !
I dont mean to be offtopic but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot the account password. I appreciate any help you can give me.
@Eric Landon Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Your Scotch Brite pads work because they are probably Silicone Carbide coated. Silicone Carbide is the magic ingredient from what I am finding out. It picks up the mill scale and doesn't just melt it and move it around which causes other material to "load up" and become ineffective.
Mill scale is formed while the material is heated up and rolled, grease and oils from rollers are pressed into the hot metal forming mill scale. Hence the name hot rolled. On the other hand the cold rolled is being rolled as well but the heat in the material is not present, that's why it stays mill scale free. I assume that the price difference is due to the fact that rolling hot rolled doesn't require such high pressure as with cold rolled, that's why hot rolled sheet metal is cheaper.
Cold rolled is also stronger. Hot rolled steel after rolled is set in air to cool. CR steel has to be cooled and then annealed. There are more processing to Manufacturing CR steel.
Cold rolled steel is precise in dimensions. The metal is formed to exact thickness etc. while cold. Hot rolled steel is formed hot, and when cool, it shrinks slightly. Cold rolled is only worth it if the dimensions are critical.
@@thebeardedstork432 Correct. Also, cold rolled is also worth when it has to be tig welded. The amount of time spent cleaning the scale off is often huge, let alone all the consumables related to it. Cold rolled is just wipe and go type of stuff. Saves ton of time. That also considered that a coworker doesn't leave a 1500x500mm plastic tub full of hydrochloric acid uncovered in the workshop for the whole weekend which not only ruined all the pristine cold rolled sheets but also all the tools, machines and pretty much every metal in the workshop lol.
The mill scale is not surface contaminants. Interestingly it is the exact same alloy as the underlying metal. It's been oxidized is all. In fact it is sold in great huge tankers to china where they will smelt it down and make steel from it by burning off the oxygen. When dealing with longer pieces that you can't soak in a tank wrap them in any absorbent material paper towels rags whatever. then Soak it and wrap in poly wrap, plastic stretch folm from the grocery works great. If you want a better mechanical method spend the $300 dollars ( or more) on a PEFRD Diamond encrusted wire cup wheel it ts nothing short of astonishing how well their products work.
I realize this video is older, but I've been working in metal fab for about that long and I think you might find the velcro head and scotch brite pads more economical. I use both 4" and 8" at my work. Just make sure you have putty knife or paint scraper handy for changing them to get between the hook and loop surfaces. Also, for structural surfaces, 16 grit pro will definitely eat all the mill scale but not for very long. We're looking into the new diamond dusted wire wheels at the moment because the Lazer removal demo we had was disappointing. Great for rust but not so great for mill scale.
Fun story: You can use brake fluid to remove paint. Just brush it on, wait a while, and wipe it off. No need to get sanding discs involved. Then when you're ready to paint, you just hit it with brake parts cleaner, and you're ready to go. I used to work at a hydraulic crane manufacturing company, and the first thing we did was put brake parts cleaner on things to break stuff up, then we'd either use a needle gun, sanding disc, or surface conditioning disc (Scotch Brite) to take most of the stuff off. It's crazy how much time people spend just trying to get their stuff clean, when there's almost always a chemical out there that's cheap, and ready to work for them :D
@@TboneDuggins Interesting. What type of paint? I've seen it work on vehicle paint, as well as paint in a cabinet (the type you see in offices) as well as on appliances like stoves.
@@TboneDuggins Good to know! I haven't needed to strip paint off stuff lately, but if I need to I'll probably just buy some purpose-made stuff. This is the sort of thing I have experienced: ua-cam.com/video/_C7JKfPIdBw/v-deo.html It stands to reason that different brake fluids and different paints would react differently, but I never really thought about it. It's refreshing to challenge long-held beliefs! I appreciate you letting me know. :)
@@PaulTMaack0 no problem I'm glad you took my statement well I actually saw a video on UA-cam where they tested it at some University too and had no results
Problem with your flap disc is the wrong abrasive materia... Zirconia bites, but Silicone Carbide doesn't. The mill scale will stick to the zirconia disc, not with silicone carbide disc.
For the rust how about buying a gallon of "Evapo-Rust" ($21) it produces miracles and can be reused almost forever (just decant it from the scale in the bottom of the bucket or tub, and put it back into the evapo-rust container.)
Muriatic acid is actually 32% hydrochloric acid. To make it safer to use I dilute it down to 10-15%. You always want to use it outdoors, use eye protection, rubber gloves, and either use a respirator or stay upwind. I use it all the time to remove rust and mill scale. When using a chemical method, the steel is so clean you may get instant rust after stripping. A coat of oil will prevent rust but it is not ideal for welding. I prefer a coat of phosphoric acid which creates a thin layer of iron phosphate. The iron phosphate is a good rust inhibitor and paint will adhere to it very well. Sometimes I just weld through the iron phosphate, but if I want to remove it, a flap disc quickly removes it. This method works very well for odd shaped parts or when the steel is pitted. The process I use is: 1. Soak in HCl. If the rust is really thick, I scrub with a wire brush every 12 hours. 2. Rinse with clean water and towel dry 3. Wipe down with a baking soda & water solution to make sure all acid is neutralized 4. Rinse with clean water 5. Towel dry to prevent instant rust 6. Coat with phosphoric acid and let it set in the shade a few hours 7. Rinse with clean water and towel dry
You can soak a towel in vinegar for some non-submersible parts, it will drip so not good for everything. Those scotchbrite discs are super nice, but really spendy. You can get a little more mileage out of the cheaper strip discs by alternating between stripping the scale and deburring the edges to wear the strip disc back and get rid of the clogged up layer.
I've used white vinegar on large parts before by covering them with soaked papers towels then covering with trash bags so they stay wet. Let it brew for a day and the stuff will wipe off with the towels.
The easiest way to get rid of mill scale is not to buy it in the first place. Find a steel supplier that carries "Pickled and Oiled" (or P&O) steel, esp if you're buying 4 x 8 sheets. Next is cold rolled. Then, yeah AFAIK , you're down to steel with mill scale. Thanks for the tip on the scotch brite, I still have plenty of mill scale to get rid of :-(
Oh, yeah millscale is a problem. Wire brush does not take it off, and those flap discs barely take it off. To clean all the millscale off of a project as big as the one in the video. You could easily burn up 10 flap discs at about 8$ a disc, maybe even more. I am going to try using a DA sander, but if that doesn't work then I will do the vinegar thing. Sandpaper for a DA is a lot cheaper than flap discs for a grinder. thanks for sharing, how you do it.
It's coming along, piece by piece. You're learning a lot about metal work! I'm taking the faster route by paying people to do it (Hint: It's way way more expensive) Seriously though, this car will be a real head turner when you finish!
Yeah, everything is just taking a really long time because every step is a learning process... but I'm hopeful that I can get to most of the heavy rust repairs within a month and ship this thing off to be dipped.
Thank you for sharing this! I was thinking I would use the wire wheel on angle grinder for this (I don't normally work in metal) so I am glad I found your video.
The vinegar method works so well, to bad its hard to upscale for large stuff. Ive tried the regular strip-disks with limited success... Will try the Scotch-brite Thanks
Mill scale results from the iron in the red hot steel oxidizing after exposure to air. Doesn’t have anything to do with impurities, unless you consider the iron in steel an impurity.
Have you seen the many videos that talk about using molasses 10 to 1 on rust. Seems to be the absolute best way assuming you have time and a big enough bucket!
the oliy stuff is called "pickled" and Ive noticed it usually has less mill scale on it.. if your buying small pieces (like 2 x2 or 1x2) lots of places that sell will wipe it down, especially if they are shipping it to you. . "Muratic" acid, (2-7% HLC) works in second s(to destroy mill scale) though you have to wash it off f and dry your work piece thoroughly or it willl rust quickly
I believe its the products that contain silicon carbide are the trick. Try flap discs and cheap paint strippers that are silicone carbide. Silicone carbide tends to chip the mill scale off which keeps the discs from clogging like the other discs. Not to mention you'll probably save money by buying off-brand than expensive Scotch-Bright.
buy cold rolled or hot rolled p&o- I see lots of auto guys using dirty hot rolled on their builds, which I would never do . CR and HRPO is more expensive, yet it saves a lot of time cleaning /grinding / using muriatic acid which will rust everything in your shop. plus your welds will be cleaner.
The earliest and cheapest way to remove mill scale is to buy cold rolled steel that doesn't have mill scale. When I switched from hot road to cold roll, I have less draws on plasma cut parts which makes clean up of the draws. 1/10 of the time it used to take and I don't have to get rid of millscale, so overall, my life has improved tremendously and 95% of the tedious BS I hated is gone and I wish someone had told me that 3 years ago.
I hate the smell of vinegar I'd use some cheap toilet bowl cleaner that is a it based like at the dollar tree they have lime a way toilet bowl cleaner and dilute it further with water
Wanted to let you know this video is still helping people! I'm building a utility trailer this Summer and getting all the larger tubing ready for welding, but didn't like how sanding discs chew up the surface and still take a lot of work. Ordered one of these pads from Amazon and it just cut right through the scale in no time. I burned through the entire scotchbrite pad but I've cleaned somewhere around 25-30 square feet of steel in the process. Definitely worth the price for the amount of labor it saved -- thanks for the tip!
There is a cleaning vinegar that's 30% instead of the 10% cooking vineger. The problem is flash rust after washing with water. Might wash with mineral spirits. Phosphoric acid (used in pop) is another option. You can find it in Homedepot's cement wash, and using silicone carbide discs will cut through the mill scale.
JUST FOUND THIS VIDEO, I'VE TRIED THE NO-NAME CLEAN & STRIP WHEELS, THEY WORKED OK BUT DID LOAD UP AFTER A SHORT TIME. I"LL GIVE THESE A TRY, WHICH ONE ARE YOU USING, THE ALUMINUM OXIDE OR SILICON CARBIDE? I ALSO USE VINIGER IN PVC TUBES, WORKS GREAT
Fuk-Ya!!! I came to you tube specifically to find a different way of removing Mill scale, something thats quicker and cheaper. I'm sort of a newbie also and I never heard of that Scotch-Brite wheel.
That scotch brite wheel is mighty impressive I was about to head to the store for one, but can only seen to buy it online. Since I needed it today, the solution I found was another chemical that works way faster than vinegar: Barkeeper's Friend (BKF). Had some under the sink, mixed it with some hot water and it also melts the scale. Thanks for confirming that scotch brite, I saw another channel using it.
I use a handheld belt sander with 120 grit to remove the scale prior to welding :) It's cheaper and faster but sometimes if I cannot get in properly I use a power file, either works and saves a bunch of money.
I plan to give the Scotch Brite disc a try. There are 2 versions of this disc. Part #29900 silicon carbide (used in this video) and 29901 aluminum oxide.
Vinegar is good if you have time. On a different note I use ceramic sanding discs for most shaping purposes. They run cooler and cut faster than a grinding disc
You saved my bacon with this suggestion. I have a project w tens of ft^2 of mill scale to remove. The flap disk that I had been using was taking forever and making a mess of the metal surface. I switched over the the Scotchbrite disk and it was fantastic. One disk lasted almost the entire project. Thanks!
thanks for the advice, i have been using flap disk but definilety it bites a lots of metal while removing mill scale. I will give a try to Scotch-brite Clean and Strip Xt Pro disc
Found your video on accident. So happy that I did! I've used all of those other disc's with limited success. Plus it was expensive I'm going to order this once I'm done typing this comment
Ok so here’s a question. I work with large plates of steel that dunking isn’t possible. What about if you had a towel soaked in vinegar and just kept it wet for 4 hours?? I may try it on my next project but wondering if you may have done it already?
I ran into the same thing with 2'x2'x1/4" steel plates. I used a kiddie pool to soak the plates in. I placed a piece of carpet in the bottom to prevent puncturing. Just make sure to test that the carpet doesn't dissolve. If you are using HCl as the solution, it will dissolve nylon but not polyester.
I actually tried the paper towel method and it worked great. Make sure to cover the entire piece with the towel and keep it damp. it got a layer of oxidation over the millscale and it all brushed right off. Man that was a lot less labour intensive than grinding or sanding. @@rksando1
Another way to use the vinegar with longer pieces of steel would be to use PVC tubing. Just glue and end cap on , insert your angle iron, square tubing etc, then pour in the vinegar. Stand it up right, put on cap and wait. Thanks for sharing !
I will do my 4links tube. Thanks!
Omg you just saved my bacon
I dont mean to be offtopic but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the account password. I appreciate any help you can give me.
@Tristian Parker instablaster :)
@Eric Landon Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Your Scotch Brite pads work because they are probably Silicone Carbide coated. Silicone Carbide is the magic ingredient from what I am finding out. It picks up the mill scale and doesn't just melt it and move it around which causes other material to "load up" and become ineffective.
I went to a local welding supplier asking for a silicon carbide grinding disc, and they looked at me like I had 3 heads.
To ensure the discs don't load up as bad I make sure to remove the oil from the work piece before I start using the stripper discs.
Mill scale is formed while the material is heated up and rolled, grease and oils from rollers are pressed into the hot metal forming mill scale. Hence the name hot rolled. On the other hand the cold rolled is being rolled as well but the heat in the material is not present, that's why it stays mill scale free. I assume that the price difference is due to the fact that rolling hot rolled doesn't require such high pressure as with cold rolled, that's why hot rolled sheet metal is cheaper.
Cold rolled is also stronger. Hot rolled steel after rolled is set in air to cool. CR steel has to be cooled and then annealed. There are more processing to Manufacturing CR steel.
@@rosstrue1 okay okay I didn’t know that, thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍👍
Cold rolled steel is precise in dimensions. The metal is formed to exact thickness etc. while cold. Hot rolled steel is formed hot, and when cool, it shrinks slightly. Cold rolled is only worth it if the dimensions are critical.
@@thebeardedstork432 Correct. Also, cold rolled is also worth when it has to be tig welded. The amount of time spent cleaning the scale off is often huge, let alone all the consumables related to it. Cold rolled is just wipe and go type of stuff. Saves ton of time.
That also considered that a coworker doesn't leave a 1500x500mm plastic tub full of hydrochloric acid uncovered in the workshop for the whole weekend which not only ruined all the pristine cold rolled sheets but also all the tools, machines and pretty much every metal in the workshop lol.
@@rixogtr holy crap, hopefully you weren’t that coworker! Or went to jail for murdering the coworker that did that lol
I wonder if you could soak the easy strip and the scotch brite in vinegar to remove the mill scale residue from it?
I was JUST going to comment the same thing! Great minds....
Nope
I was thinking the same thing.
The mill scale is not surface contaminants. Interestingly it is the exact same alloy as the underlying metal. It's been oxidized is all. In fact it is sold in great huge tankers to china where they will smelt it down and make steel from it by burning off the oxygen. When dealing with longer pieces that you can't soak in a tank wrap them in any absorbent material paper towels rags whatever. then Soak it and wrap in poly wrap, plastic stretch folm from the grocery works great. If you want a better mechanical method spend the $300 dollars ( or more) on a PEFRD Diamond encrusted wire cup wheel it ts nothing short of astonishing how well their products work.
I realize this video is older, but I've been working in metal fab for about that long and I think you might find the velcro head and scotch brite pads more economical. I use both 4" and 8" at my work. Just make sure you have putty knife or paint scraper handy for changing them to get between the hook and loop surfaces. Also, for structural surfaces, 16 grit pro will definitely eat all the mill scale but not for very long. We're looking into the new diamond dusted wire wheels at the moment because the Lazer removal demo we had was disappointing. Great for rust but not so great for mill scale.
Fun story: You can use brake fluid to remove paint. Just brush it on, wait a while, and wipe it off. No need to get sanding discs involved. Then when you're ready to paint, you just hit it with brake parts cleaner, and you're ready to go.
I used to work at a hydraulic crane manufacturing company, and the first thing we did was put brake parts cleaner on things to break stuff up, then we'd either use a needle gun, sanding disc, or surface conditioning disc (Scotch Brite) to take most of the stuff off. It's crazy how much time people spend just trying to get their stuff clean, when there's almost always a chemical out there that's cheap, and ready to work for them :D
I tried using brake fluid to remove paint and let it sit for 3 or 4 days and it didn't do shit
@@TboneDuggins Interesting. What type of paint? I've seen it work on vehicle paint, as well as paint in a cabinet (the type you see in offices) as well as on appliances like stoves.
@@PaulTMaack0 I let it soak on my truck frame for at least three if not 4 or 5 days
@@TboneDuggins Good to know! I haven't needed to strip paint off stuff lately, but if I need to I'll probably just buy some purpose-made stuff. This is the sort of thing I have experienced: ua-cam.com/video/_C7JKfPIdBw/v-deo.html
It stands to reason that different brake fluids and different paints would react differently, but I never really thought about it. It's refreshing to challenge long-held beliefs! I appreciate you letting me know. :)
@@PaulTMaack0 no problem I'm glad you took my statement well I actually saw a video on UA-cam where they tested it at some University too and had no results
Thanks for being kind enough to put this together just to help us. I appreciate you!
Problem with your flap disc is the wrong abrasive materia... Zirconia bites, but Silicone Carbide doesn't. The mill scale will stick to the zirconia disc, not with silicone carbide disc.
Why not put the scotch brite disc in the vinegar and use it again?
For the rust how about buying a gallon of "Evapo-Rust" ($21) it produces miracles and can be reused almost forever (just decant it from the scale in the bottom of the bucket or tub, and put it back into the evapo-rust container.)
Muriatic acid is actually 32% hydrochloric acid. To make it safer to use I dilute it down to 10-15%. You always want to use it outdoors, use eye protection, rubber gloves, and either use a respirator or stay upwind. I use it all the time to remove rust and mill scale. When using a chemical method, the steel is so clean you may get instant rust after stripping. A coat of oil will prevent rust but it is not ideal for welding. I prefer a coat of phosphoric acid which creates a thin layer of iron phosphate. The iron phosphate is a good rust inhibitor and paint will adhere to it very well. Sometimes I just weld through the iron phosphate, but if I want to remove it, a flap disc quickly removes it. This method works very well for odd shaped parts or when the steel is pitted. The process I use is:
1. Soak in HCl. If the rust is really thick, I scrub with a wire brush every 12 hours.
2. Rinse with clean water and towel dry
3. Wipe down with a baking soda & water solution to make sure all acid is neutralized
4. Rinse with clean water
5. Towel dry to prevent instant rust
6. Coat with phosphoric acid and let it set in the shade a few hours
7. Rinse with clean water and towel dry
You can soak a towel in vinegar for some non-submersible parts, it will drip so not good for everything. Those scotchbrite discs are super nice, but really spendy. You can get a little more mileage out of the cheaper strip discs by alternating between stripping the scale and deburring the edges to wear the strip disc back and get rid of the clogged up layer.
If you take a wire wheel to the rust on that sheet metal after soaking in vinegar for 4 hours it will come right off I'm sure.
If you take a wire wheel to it without vinegar it comes off too.
I've used white vinegar on large parts before by covering them with soaked papers towels then covering with trash bags so they stay wet. Let it brew for a day and the stuff will wipe off with the towels.
The easiest way to get rid of mill scale is not to buy it in the first place. Find a steel supplier that carries "Pickled and Oiled" (or P&O) steel, esp if you're buying 4 x 8 sheets. Next is cold rolled. Then, yeah AFAIK , you're down to steel with mill scale. Thanks for the tip on the scotch brite, I still have plenty of mill scale to get rid of :-(
The flap disc doesn't bite nearly as much if you grind in one direction, especially if you only pull, but it's time-consuming nonetheless
That ads mid video aren’t it
What strength of vinegar are you using. i always use the stronger kind. cost is a bit more but definately faster and better . great tutorial
Great tip. Diamond impregnated brushes are beyond budget for most personal shops.
If you don’t like the smell of vinegar use citric acid. Works like a charm and no smell at all.
You got to the point quickly, you are articulate, and well reasoned. Thanks for being you.
Oh, yeah millscale is a problem. Wire brush does not take it off, and those flap discs barely take it off. To clean all the millscale off of a project as big as the one in the video. You could easily burn up 10 flap discs at about 8$ a disc, maybe even more. I am going to try using a DA sander, but if that doesn't work then I will do the vinegar thing. Sandpaper for a DA is a lot cheaper than flap discs for a grinder. thanks for sharing, how you do it.
It's coming along, piece by piece. You're learning a lot about metal work! I'm taking the faster route by paying people to do it (Hint: It's way way more expensive) Seriously though, this car will be a real head turner when you finish!
Yeah, everything is just taking a really long time because every step is a learning process... but I'm hopeful that I can get to most of the heavy rust repairs within a month and ship this thing off to be dipped.
Restoration For Beginners you are getting closer each episode!
Thank you for sharing this! I was thinking I would use the wire wheel on angle grinder for this (I don't normally work in metal) so I am glad I found your video.
The vinegar method works so well, to bad its hard to upscale for large stuff. Ive tried the regular strip-disks with limited success... Will try the Scotch-brite Thanks
Mill scale results from the iron in the red hot steel oxidizing after exposure to air. Doesn’t have anything to do with impurities, unless you consider the iron in steel an impurity.
Have you seen the many videos that talk about using molasses 10 to 1 on rust. Seems to be the absolute best way assuming you have time and a big enough bucket!
Whatever you do do not leave that inside your shop vinegar that is. It will flash rust any metal surface.
Bonus question: Can you recover the clogged abrasive wheel by soaking it in vinegar also?
Thats funny i was thinking the same thing using vineger or even molasis?
That's exactly what I was wondering.
Try throwing the easy strip disc in the vinegar
Rotate the wire wheel to where the tips of wire makes contact works alot better
the oliy stuff is called "pickled" and Ive noticed it usually has less mill scale on it.. if your buying small pieces (like 2 x2 or 1x2) lots of places that sell will wipe it down, especially if they are shipping it to you. . "Muratic" acid, (2-7% HLC) works in second s(to destroy mill scale) though you have to wash it off f and dry your work piece thoroughly or it willl rust quickly
acids like vinegar are great... if you don't mind hydrogen embrittlement or corrosive cracking
Well, try something else. 3M fibra base plate 64861 combine with fibra stone grinding disk. You will be surprise.
I believe its the products that contain silicon carbide are the trick. Try flap discs and cheap paint strippers that are silicone carbide. Silicone carbide tends to chip the mill scale off which keeps the discs from clogging like the other discs. Not to mention you'll probably save money by buying off-brand than expensive Scotch-Bright.
buy cold rolled or hot rolled p&o- I see lots of auto guys using dirty hot rolled on their builds, which I would never do . CR and HRPO is more expensive, yet it saves a lot of time cleaning /grinding / using muriatic acid which will rust everything in your shop. plus your welds will be cleaner.
The earliest and cheapest way to remove mill scale is to buy cold rolled steel that doesn't have mill scale. When I switched from hot road to cold roll, I have less draws on plasma cut parts which makes clean up of the draws. 1/10 of the time it used to take and I don't have to get rid of millscale, so overall, my life has improved tremendously and 95% of the tedious BS I hated is gone and I wish someone had told me that 3 years ago.
I'm a self taught welder and did not know about the stripping wheels, thank you!!!!!
Thanks so much for this information sir, it has saved me a lot of time 😊😊😊😊 great video bro
I hate the smell of vinegar I'd use some cheap toilet bowl cleaner that is a it based like at the dollar tree they have lime a way toilet bowl cleaner and dilute it further with water
Diamond coated wire wheels way better the those option apart from the acid bath
I have some 30% vinegar that will melt ypur face off lol
Cool. I've been using 20% cleaning vinegar. I got a bunch for free a few years ago. I'll have to check out the Scotch Brite disc. Thanks for the info.
I just hate the way it smells, but vinegar is pretty amazing.
Good video
is it toxic to weld on metal that had vinegar on it?
Wanted to let you know this video is still helping people! I'm building a utility trailer this Summer and getting all the larger tubing ready for welding, but didn't like how sanding discs chew up the surface and still take a lot of work. Ordered one of these pads from Amazon and it just cut right through the scale in no time. I burned through the entire scotchbrite pad but I've cleaned somewhere around 25-30 square feet of steel in the process. Definitely worth the price for the amount of labor it saved -- thanks for the tip!
There is a cleaning vinegar that's 30% instead of the 10% cooking vineger. The problem is flash rust after washing with water. Might wash with mineral spirits. Phosphoric acid (used in pop) is another option. You can find it in Homedepot's cement wash, and using silicone carbide discs will cut through the mill scale.
does the vinegar degrade with repeated use?
JUST FOUND THIS VIDEO, I'VE TRIED THE NO-NAME CLEAN & STRIP WHEELS, THEY WORKED OK BUT DID LOAD UP AFTER A SHORT TIME. I"LL GIVE THESE A TRY, WHICH ONE ARE YOU USING, THE ALUMINUM OXIDE OR SILICON CARBIDE? I ALSO USE VINIGER IN PVC TUBES, WORKS GREAT
Fuk-Ya!!! I came to you tube specifically to find a different way of removing Mill scale, something thats quicker and cheaper. I'm sort of a newbie also and I never heard of that Scotch-Brite wheel.
17 dollars a disc..no way
Considering what it costs to use sanding discs, what a wire wheel costs, not including your time this is totally worth it
That scotch brite wheel is mighty impressive I was about to head to the store for one, but can only seen to buy it online. Since I needed it today, the solution I found was another chemical that works way faster than vinegar: Barkeeper's Friend (BKF). Had some under the sink, mixed it with some hot water and it also melts the scale. Thanks for confirming that scotch brite, I saw another channel using it.
I use a handheld belt sander with 120 grit to remove the scale prior to welding :) It's cheaper and faster but sometimes if I cannot get in properly I use a power file, either works and saves a bunch of money.
I plan to give the Scotch Brite disc a try. There are 2 versions of this disc. Part #29900 silicon carbide (used in this video) and 29901 aluminum oxide.
Awesome video. I'm just starting out and just found this video. Great info great examples to boot! Thank you.
This was so helpful! Thanks a lot dude!
I wonder if you can soak the Black Hawk strip disk or scotch brite disk in vinegar to get the mill scale out of it.
Are you using 5% white vinegar, or something much more concentrated, like 20%?
Best way if money was no object would be to use a laser cleaning system. You can also wet/dry blast small parts clean.
I have to say Scotch-Brite is a 3M product which is why there was no surprise to me to see the brand on the scrubber.
Vinegar is good if you have time. On a different note I use ceramic sanding discs for most shaping purposes. They run cooler and cut faster than a grinding disc
You saved my bacon with this suggestion. I have a project w tens of ft^2 of mill scale to remove. The flap disk that I had been using was taking forever and making a mess of the metal surface. I switched over the the Scotchbrite disk and it was fantastic. One disk lasted almost the entire project. Thanks!
thanks for the advice, i have been using flap disk but definilety it bites a lots of metal while removing mill scale. I will give a try to Scotch-brite Clean and Strip Xt Pro disc
If you can, get a sandblast cabinet, compressor, hopper- it's done...
These disc come in different colors. Does the color denote any difference between the disc (ie grit) or just the manufactures color of choice?
Man if I was there I would give you a hug for the scotch brite tip… lol thanks man.
Vinegar worked!
Diamond coated stainless steel brush cups.
Vinegar, great idea.
Why aren't you just buying Pickled and Oiled steel?
Bless you sir! No more mill scale, and no more just putting vinegar on my fish and chips
I,m assuming that there is a reason one does not just buy cold rolled steel ?, is it more expensive or harder to find ?
Interesting... I just took delivery of eight clean/strip disks. I’m looking forward to trying them.
Found your video on accident. So happy that I did! I've used all of those other disc's with limited success. Plus it was expensive I'm going to order this once I'm done typing this comment
maybe sit the scotch bright discs in vinegar over night to clean them?
Scotch Brite = 3M
Thank you mate.. great tip! Greetings from New Zealand
How many times can you use it before it stops working?
Great 👍 presentation quick and to the point 👍, Great project your working on.
Great video. Thank you for recommending Scotch Brite. I'm going to give it a try.
Great clear and understandable info. Thank you
Good info! Thanks for taking the time to make and share this
I use vinegar
acid magic is best on large surfaces its a muratic acid lite!
The only disadvantage is an awful stink!
Holy cow, get a tripod, my man. 🤢
Super helpful video! Thanks bro.
thanks! Had not heard of those scotch brite discs before, just ordered one to test
Most excellent instruction! Thanks!
Ok so here’s a question. I work with large plates of steel that dunking isn’t possible. What about if you had a towel soaked in vinegar and just kept it wet for 4 hours?? I may try it on my next project but wondering if you may have done it already?
I ran into the same thing with 2'x2'x1/4" steel plates. I used a kiddie pool to soak the plates in. I placed a piece of carpet in the bottom to prevent puncturing. Just make sure to test that the carpet doesn't dissolve. If you are using HCl as the solution, it will dissolve nylon but not polyester.
I actually tried the paper towel method and it worked great. Make sure to cover the entire piece with the towel and keep it damp. it got a layer of oxidation over the millscale and it all brushed right off. Man that was a lot less labour intensive than grinding or sanding.
@@rksando1
Do you clean the metal before using the grinder to remove mill scale
Thanks, saved alot of time 🙌
Belt sander
Terrific - thank you!!!
Very valuable 👌
Thanks for info. Those disks rock!
Use diamond cup wire wheels
Thanks
Great video
Real good tips in this video!