hope to get mine up and running to ...ive got a 48 foot trailer house frame coming this week that im gonna set mine up on ... im glad your putting these tips up so i know what to do to motify
The major problem with this mill is its lack of a stiffened base. It rides untangle iron.Unless this is solidly blocked up it will bend. Your cuts will be off because the carriage runs on this.I had another brand of mill that had this problem.I put it on a concrete slab A later model of that saw put a 2x6 tube of steel the length of the track as standard. That relieves a lot of problems.
Hi im running a chain mill still working out the bugs..But i saw another gents Harbor Freight mill with a winch motor to raise and lower from H F...Pretty cool..It barely showed how it was done...seconds ..nice work!
pretty slick on the adjusting of the height modification my first thought was if you use a motor pulley system instead of the cordless drill you could have a momentary switch for each direction with either a one hand or foot controller i saw Patricks comment and that might be a good option since you already have a 12 volt battery at the mill of course autos have other 12 volt motors that may work as well ? like hydraulic units and many others that might be adaptable from either a auto or a farm machinery application
So you gotta put that drill on there for every cut you make in order to lower the head to make another cut? If that's the case, then there's no way that would speed up process. I know it would be faster to just grab that handle and crank it down one or two inches.
Do you realize that "drill" is an impact first off and secondly it is turning that shaft about 8x faster than what you would crank it by hand. Trust me I personally know and done the same thing it may look like the impact is moving slow but that's like saying you could bottom out a free spinning nut on a bolt faster than a power tool....
My raising / lowering arm not working on the HF 301CC Item # 62366. I took the slide arm out that had the two pullies on the end of it. I found the brass adaptor nut that the arm threaded rod goes into worn / stripped out . The long threaded shaft (about 10 inches) with the handle is good. I was able to get the brass adapter nut out of the arm with no problem. The PDF drawings for the parts list does not show the threaded shaft that the handle fits onto or the brass adaptor nut/bushing??? The HF order department said you have to order the whole arm assembly and they could not tell me if the brass nut would be on there. Please help. This is Brass Metric nut outside and inside but not sure what the sizes are. Any help or info would be appreciated . Try to find a mod that would help with the lift. Thank you, Ted
you done lot of cutting yet with it. just wondering when someone going to come up with a way to make the last cut or two when the wood gets a bow in it. ours runs off about 3/16 to 1/4 inch trying to get the last cut. Have to turn it and cut other end of it to get it strait. lot of time waisted
A lot of mills tail off at the end.It could be spring in the log or you are overhanging your bunk too much.The mill presses the log down and you get a thin end. Lots of brands have this problem.
we been doing some cutting and seems after you make a cut and release the handles or lock downs it drops bout 1/8 inch sometimes. don't know whats going on with that. the handle seems to move some while its cutting. got get all that straitened up some how. Thing shows to be level all way down but yet it cuts high at times on lower end to. you have any of those problems?
what size are the bearings. I would like to know more about the engine it looked like 13 hp that HF has. installing it ( did the foot pattern match up? I'm at a time where I buy a larger saw or up grade my existing hp sawmill. I have worked mine hard now for about 1-1/2 yrs. south florida
I know people buy the hf was mills because of the price but woodland mills make a much better one for 2195.00 that you wouldn't have to do upgrades on ......go check out there videos they can cut veneer on their saws like 1\8 inch thick ....they are just much better machines than hf and I believe hf mills are about 2200.00 bucks so for the money I would go with woodland mills
hope to get mine up and running to ...ive got a 48 foot trailer house frame coming this week that im gonna set mine up on ... im glad your putting these tips up so i know what to do to motify
Get an old windshield motor hook it with a brace for a permanent fix. Add a fixed switch looking good there.
The major problem with this mill is its lack of a stiffened base. It rides untangle iron.Unless this is solidly blocked up it will bend. Your cuts will be off because the carriage runs on this.I had another brand of mill that had this problem.I put it on a concrete slab A later model of that saw put a 2x6 tube of steel the length of the track as standard. That relieves a lot of problems.
Hi im running a chain mill still working out the bugs..But i saw another gents Harbor Freight mill with a winch motor to raise and lower from H F...Pretty cool..It barely showed how it was done...seconds ..nice work!
The zip-tied tape measure segment says it all..
On a slant no less.... 😂
@@jp3eku Accuracy subject to change under windy conditions.
pretty slick on the adjusting of the height modification my first thought was if you use a motor pulley system instead of the cordless drill you could have a momentary switch for each direction with either a one hand or foot controller i saw Patricks comment and that might be a good option since you already have a 12 volt battery at the mill of course autos have other 12 volt motors that may work as well ? like hydraulic units and many others that might be adaptable from either a auto or a farm machinery application
So you gotta put that drill on there for every cut you make in order to lower the head to make another cut? If that's the case, then there's no way that would speed up process. I know it would be faster to just grab that handle and crank it down one or two inches.
Do you realize that "drill" is an impact first off and secondly it is turning that shaft about 8x faster than what you would crank it by hand. Trust me I personally know and done the same thing it may look like the impact is moving slow but that's like saying you could bottom out a free spinning nut on a bolt faster than a power tool....
not as if this really matters but wouldn't it be power up and down, not manual ?
Awesome upgrades brother!
Looks like a cuttin machine.
My raising / lowering arm not working on the HF 301CC Item # 62366. I took the slide arm out that had the two pullies on the end of it. I found the brass adaptor nut that the arm threaded rod goes into worn / stripped out . The long threaded shaft (about 10 inches) with the handle is good. I was able to get the brass adapter nut out of the arm with no problem. The PDF drawings for the parts list does not show the threaded shaft that the handle fits onto or the brass adaptor nut/bushing??? The HF order department said you have to order the whole arm assembly and they could not tell me if the brass nut would be on there. Please help. This is Brass Metric nut outside and inside but not sure what the sizes are. Any help or info would be appreciated .
Try to find a mod that would help with the lift.
Thank you,
Ted
good video. whats on back yours. the red tank
you done lot of cutting yet with it. just wondering when someone going to come up with a way to make the last cut or two when the wood gets a bow in it. ours runs off about 3/16 to 1/4 inch trying to get the last cut. Have to turn it and cut other end of it to get it strait. lot of time waisted
A lot of mills tail off at the end.It could be spring in the log or you are overhanging your bunk too much.The mill presses the log down and you get a thin end. Lots of brands have this problem.
What kind and size of bearings did you use?
What size,type etc roller guide block did you use?
Where did you buy the guide bearings?
we been doing some cutting and seems after you make a cut and release the handles or lock downs it drops bout 1/8 inch sometimes. don't know whats going on with that. the handle seems to move some while its cutting. got get all that straitened up some how. Thing shows to be level all way down but yet it cuts high at times on lower end to. you have any of those problems?
Same issue here. The hand locks suck, i dont use them anymore. I just hold the handle in place as im cutting and it fixed that problem
would like to know the bearing size,like to mod my mill
those should be standard roller skate bearing is what I used
Where can I get the roller bearnings
I got mine at my local bearing supplier
@@jggoodguy81 what size did you get
where did you get the rollers
drypfus local bearing shop
what size are the bearings. I would like to know more about the engine it looked like 13 hp that HF has. installing it ( did the foot pattern match up? I'm at a time where I buy a larger saw or up grade my existing hp sawmill. I have worked mine hard now for about 1-1/2 yrs. south florida
I know people buy the hf was mills because of the price but woodland mills make a much better one for 2195.00 that you wouldn't have to do upgrades on ......go check out there videos they can cut veneer on their saws like 1\8 inch thick ....they are just much better machines than hf and I believe hf mills are about 2200.00 bucks so for the money I would go with woodland mills
unless you use a 20% off coupon when you buy one like I did so was about 1600 bucks
T