The handy $15 100A 4S BMS s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkArRMV Here is the 24 volt s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEVagXF ,Atorch Mega Meter System s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBmlSJP Boost Kiera with ko-fi.com/john4kiera 175 Amp Ultimate Power VSR ebay.us/GSLWfk, ⬇ Li Time mini 100A Battery shrsl.com/40kwt, Sun Fun Kits www.sunfunkits.com If you need help, post your questions. *TOTAL PROFESSIONAL DESIGNED AFFORDABLE SURVIVAL OFF GRID KIT* amzn.to/42cdjBX
Where is the link on the cheap balance board? Do you know about a 8s version of these $15 boards? I have 24v inverter setup and want to eliminate the battery junction issue in dirt roads and different discharge voltage in series that happens when I don't use trailer that often.... Great video love the way you have raised your daughter..,
We have 100’s of people in the U.K. running lithium / lead hybrid from commercially produced batteries with programmable JBD BMSs and with multiple lithium batteries in parallel. The balancer is fully configurable for start voltage, delta to balance and wether to only balance while charging. As the BMS is fully configurable it can be set up with cut off voltages to give best battery life and actually manage the battery rather than just protect it from extremes.
You need quality voltage activated auto isolators and preferably a BMS that is fixed, not programmed. Allowing the lithium to collect the solar, lead acid to collect wind power, you just set the disconnect from your sharing at 30%. Doing it for years I have found numerous ways to do it.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 No I don’t. I have years of graphs that prove it. Fixed BMSs are set to maximise capacity not life and push limits and allow low voltage overcharge from alternators. My lithiums collect solar power just fine, right up until what I choose to define as full. My lead are happy as they are kept on a low float and sit there to protect the alternator when the lithium are full and to act as a buffer for the dump load. There is no need to disconnect sharing at 30% as the voltages become equal then anyway and the lead then start to contribute which, in a boating setup, is fine. The starter battery is kept out of the equation. I too have been doing it for years and found different ways to do it and settled for the one that suits me and my batteries best. There is more than one way to skin a cat as the saying goes for some reason!
@@philbrooke-little7082 I've been using 2 of those JBD BMSs on 2,,, 8s 100Ah batteries that are horrible matched[ cheap], each has a 5 amp cap type balancers working fine .
When she gets her channel up and running, I'll drop over quickly to subscribe to help her numbers. I'll support her more if she does other things like solar or something within the engineering field. She got a knack for learning these skills, proof of past projects. She has learned a lot from you, Dad. John, you got a strong young lady to stand up and start her channel! : )
She was born with challenges no internet stalking thug can outdo. And she has beat them, So when she gets her channel going, it will include solar, hydroponics and her farming as well.
Thank you to you both, for the DISCOVERY. IT IS THE WAY. Rather than buying an (Echo Flow) power pack or something proprietary and when it goes wrong.The manufacturer doesn't get back to you after using the customer as a guinea - pig. nearly burning down their campervan. I have purchased two 12v lithium phosphate batteries to make 24v using the higher voltage keeping heat losses and excessive current down for the 3kw inverter powering the refrigerator or induction hob. coffee machine.or lights compter when required. Individual 12 batteries are the way forward giving 12VOLTS for usb charging ect. In the platfom without the need, of an Inverter running. Using Individual Bluetooths and BMS i can keep an eye on the top ballance and state of charge. Bleeding or changing. Keeping the two 12Volt batteries at a near same State Of Charge Ballance. Work's well when conserving power in emergency situations. The Best of Both Worlds. 12v and 24v. Looking forward to your mixing lead and lithium video. Using the lead as a sponge reducing the Amps surge in the Lithium keep the BMS ACTIVELY ON.
I caution anyone going over 24 volt, insist they use as much DC only items they can find, and not wasting money on those very finicky premade limited power stations for their real needs. I am running two 10.2 CUF DC refrigerators in my home, 4 DC freezers, and 90% is DC lighting. I ordered 1000 feet 500 red/500black of 6 awg cable to wire the building with in DC and made 2 mains with 1 awg from the bank to distribution boxes using 28 sized to circuit auto reset circuit breakers into it and 2 auto grade fuse boxes. Even my TV which is only 29" and rarely used is 12 volt, as is my 16 security cameras and monitors. We use the inverters for well pump, 4 Air Conditioners, microwave, some cooking and tools. You loose over 14% inverting from DC to AC so the cost of going DC mostly is off set by the actual solar and battery you'll need is less overall.
I want a mesh sweater ! I used to knit too- so fun- I know the pain of excessive med bills - I would love more electronics vids like this from her too - she's had a great mentor obviously!
These Dumb BMS items are the safest to use, I get idiots screaming crazy for me showing it and saying not to use the smart bms due to it is taking all your real controls away. They get excited by the BT and UART screen feedback, like cheeto eating video gamers. Those App driven and flowing programmable BMS are constantly screwing up. Already seen 2 now, in 48 and 1 guys 24 volt system be crippled by a damn smart BMS.
God bless her every stitch, pa,😊 her dad knows a little bit about this stuff! SO, I'M GOING TO DIG RIGHT IN AND TAKE HEED, ANOTHER PS, (I SHOULD HAVE SAID HE KNOWS A LITTLE BIT MORE THAN I. GODSPEED TO THE BOTH OF YOU.
Thank You John, I recently started seeing your presentations and they are of most informative especially in a real life environment. This episode really explains the ins and outs of BMS and now I know why the parameters of X number of batt in series or parallel are. I just considering purchasing CHINS but now NFW! Still on the fence about Power Queen. Thank You both again. Happy Holidays from S.Fla.
Really been enjoying your videos and I think it just saved me from making a mistake on "Johnny Two Chins". Will keep an eye out for your daughters channel to try and support. You guys make a great team and I feel like I've gotten better info out of your videos over many others I had watched until I found your channel. Thanks so much!
People who want toys, they need all the flashing lights and blue tooth apps running their world. Already seen these screwing up so bad I was looking for a fix. *Keep It Simple Stupid* seems to be the best outcome yet again.
hey john i don,t use bms i only use battery balancer only, i set the charger for controller at 138 to 14 v only so far it been working for 4 years now when sun goes down they seem to float at 13.2 13 4 it works for me i do all diy life04 all so been use ing a charger on each bat
If you have enough cells, 150% or so of your actual top needs, you only need such a set up. A BMS is for short protection, over draw protection, and over charge protection. But you can bypass a BMS with common sense and a few parts like over load breakers and proper under voltage disconnects. A balancer is good to gain longer cell life, and the best are just the 1/2 amp per cell and never charge over 14.4 if in a 12 volt system.
I learn a lot from John, thanks for all that you do. I look forward to learning more about that Ultimate Power device and how to connect lead acid and LiPo4 batteries together. Cheers from Fort Worth TX
I have lots of friends in UK, many say that ESG and quotas now make them wait 3x as long if they are white or perceived to be white. Same thing going on it Canada though. They offer you suicide before they offer you health care, but ONLY if your white. Its banned to offer if your otherwise.
Im a 17 year old, i build my own Lifepo4 packs, me being money limited i do it dirt cheap, currently having a 200Ah 12v with a Programmable Bluetooth bms, its only 100amps but the reason i bought a programmable one is due to the fact im upgrading this battery pack to 400+ah with scrap 26650 batteries. Im extremely smart with electronics and im going to upgrade my bms to 400amps, with only $50 of parts, the bms is worth $75. I may be making a video on this, no one on the internet has ever thought of upgrading a bms. I can program the bms to 400Amps and calibrate the current reading when i upgrade to a 400Amp shunt. So that it will read normal but can handle 400amps. This also keeps my battery % accurate and makes me save a ton of money.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 might make a new channel and make vidoes, its a dream but lack of motivation is my problem haha. Ill get there at some point. I wanna be able to help people out and actually have educational videos and stuff. Im sure it would be extremely educational of physically upgrading a bms for cheap to handle more current. Finding cheap cells for cheap to build a lifepo4 pack. I shoulvr made a video if my 4000watt pure sine inverter i bought for only $125, its worth $750 new, it was Dead on arrival and i fixed it in 30 minutes. Couldve showed how to fix a broken inverter. May buy broken things for videos to fix and show how to save money.
Balancing is the least of the tasks of a BMS. The primary task is to ensure you don't over charge or over discharge your batteries and, if equipped, keep you from charging/discharging when it is too cold to do so without damaging the cells. Many BMS's don't even have balancing, or if they do it doesn't work well. Once a battery is top balanced, which you can do by connecting all cells in parallel for a while, they should never get out of balance, unless you have a faulty cell, which a balancing BMS isn't going to fix.
Hey John, I have a question. You’ve given me inspiration to DIY, bat build. I have a vintage Japanese RV with a 2.8Litre diesel. Can I run a single say 300AH lifepo4 bat for starting and house? Would I need a Dc - dc charger? Assuming my alternator will put out 14.6 volts. Appreciate any suggestions?
Single 300 Ah battery would not be commonly designed as a starter rated battery. Most 300 ah and even 400 ah sold on the market only have a max of a 200 amp output, and may peak for a single second at 400 to 500 but will fault quick on most starter loads. The BMS in them is capable, but most of them are not made in their design for starting purposes. A pair of 200 amp with 200 amp draw ability are much more capable to do that engine starting if you wire for it.
Hi Aubrey. It's preferable if you use the 300ah lifepo4 battery for house only. Just leave your existing lead acid battery for starting. Use a dc - dc charger to charge your lifepo4. You can always add solar if you need additional charging?
Yes to Gordon. Using the lead acid in the van for engine is best outcome. Making a controlled charging system for your Lithium off that lead acid is best till automotive electrical systems catch up with computerized batteries.
Both the active and passive balancing system fails in LiFePO4 battery packs. They work fairly in Li-ion and Li-Po battery packs. Any suggestions to balance LiFePO4 battery packs?
Yes, a flat rate charger. And if I had the $$$$ I would build one. Fact is, a BMS is pure BS. You can have 500 cells or 4, what you need is isolated direct cell charging. Each cell gets 3.65 volts, Not 14.6 shared by all 4 in a 12 volt. 12,24,48, 60 volt battery won't matter. If, and I do, can use a 12 volt charger to charge a 48 volt AGM battery bank by charging each 12 volt as a independent then why not 3.2 or 3.7 for Lithium. Because THEY want to rip you off.
My best battery choice remains old school Lead Acid. To keep it at top voltage to extend it's life a few LiFePO4 for sustaining over 12.4 volts when needed. My remote items, RV and well pump are Lithium due to the single use aspect. The problem with Lithium is they are difficult to build into massive banks due to the industry who makes them are short sited like tic tok viewers.
This sounds great if I could use it for 8S 25.6V batteries i am having … Is there one of these available for 8S battery ? What about 16S - how do you use these for 8S - 16S ?
Sure thing. It totally goes against the hard core folks who need the blinking lights, 3X the cost, foreign software control, and blue tooth feedback, but its fact.
Im sorry for what ever is going i because ive just now found your videos since im just getting into solar to power my off grid tiny house ive watched a few of your videos thank you so much for the information im able to get
The average Tiny house, 400 square feet and smaller is best served using a 12 volt system, if your intent is cost and surviving the pending world wide catastrophes the elites are creating. I suggest 1200 to 1800 watts solar, and get it while it is available, it will disappear like toilet paper did on the covid scares first month. The link under the video to a list of parts helps.
Thank you for all your great content. I have to build a 48v battery because that is what is required for my all in one growatt inverter. Could I build 4 12v (4s) packs and combine in series using a bms for each 12v (4s) pack, 4 total?
These are designed as engine start rated, so I doubt that they can be placed into 48v 4S. I recommend using a deliberate 48V BMS with 16 leads on it, and always over buy the rating on them to defeat china math over exaggeration of ability!
I tried to find that balancer from your video and couldn't. The battery isolator is much more expensive now. I have 4 of the 4s 100A and one of the 8s 200A in my cart along with a collection of 6A active BMSs that I found using key words in the item names. It looks like I'm going to be searching for a 16s 120A to 180A for a while longer. Simple ones are hard to find.
OK now you have opened a can of new worms, and I'm paying close attention. I have one set-up of PRIMO8HP LITHIUM LION 24VDC- 8 batteries ON An 8000 WATT SPLIT PHASE.. These are 3.7 nominal 4.2 chg, and my Lipo 4 is 3.2 can I make a stack for all eight? As you have done?. Thank You in advance for the info, and keep those videos coming big help and damn sure budget-friendly. Mike said all that.
I've heard that we're not suppose to mix different brand lithium phosphate batteries. Is this 100% true? I bought an SOK 12v 100ah battery a little ways back, but after watching your video about the power queen batteries, I want to try one or two. Would it be a mistake to parallel a 12v 100ah Power Queen with the SOK battery I have?
As long as you do not get smaller in capacity and capability. I have not had a problem mixing a Unowix with Power Queen, and Unowix and SOK use the same BMS. I would buy them through Amazon though amzn.to/42wav21 because they are fully covered by Amazon as well as Power Queen group. Same price, but better customer outcome.
Thanks Daniel, appreciate the reply and will use your Amazon links. Also really appreciate your video on grounding. It cleared a lot up for me as I had gone done the UA-cam rabbit hole about to ground or not to ground and while I kind of leaned towards floating, there are many who argue that and insist you need an earth ground. Your reasoning seems to make the most sense to me so I have gone with that. Thank you!
@@keep-it-real6926 Just remember, If you earth ground your solar panel frames, for the same illogical reasons they use, be sure to buy a few hundred feet of the same 8 awg bare copper they use, which can not handle a lightning strike, but is awesome as a lightning magnet right before it melts in half and sends your presents form the weather Gods. We here are "Not gonna do it University" will continue to use a remote diversion lightning device called a piece of rebar and a higher spot to solve the issue.
I have 2 RoyPow Batteries incoming of those kinds, 30 Ah - they where not cheap but... I think they probably are a good start to try out things, Serial, Parallel and trying out stuff trying out by doing stuff :P Trying to get a MarsRock Controller although they did not have the 4000 watt in store. So seeing if I can get the 3000 Watt, which should be more then fine for my dimension and system. What sold me to buying them was that they put the Wh data and other such thing on the battery itself - so sick and tired of vain data details on things. I have gotten the Charger RoyPow 10 Amps 12 Volt and tried it with the Gel battery I have and it seemed to work although the charger say exclusively Lithium Iron Phophate although the sellers are adviticing on Amazon say they can do old kinds of batteries, yet the package and manual don't seem to say so which is kinda odd.... But whatever the case, Batteries are incoming - so that will be interesting to try out. And then I just need the controller and I'm on my way to trying things out, or exploding something, either way... Getting some experience.
SunFunKit looks very interesting if you wanna go deeper into understanding batteries. They also have connection of Serial, Parallel and Serial Parallel picture, very nice.
I think if you go to them and use JOHN DANIEL or POKY as a discount code you can cut $50 or more. They do make a impressive kit, and it is capable of multiple in series and parallel.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I'm sure someone will use that :) I now have those RoyPow Batteries to toy around with and... A renter who don't want me to have my solar panels up and windmill attached to on the outside of the balcony. Well.... So things to sort out. I'm thinking I might get around with some Parasol stones and put something out, you can get some pretty heavy stones and put a metal rod in it and I guess string some solar panels and the Windmill on them if I get a couple of them. We will see.
The Bluetti EB70 I have has 2 fans - but they are obstructed by the fan input and output air intake and outtake. So I made some big holes on both sides and they are now blowing very nicely although don't have the tools to test the difference, it clearly blows much more air through the system for cooling it down now. Of cause you don't wanna put your fingers into the holes, as the protection is gone on that level. Although, it is possible to get some protection as there are holes in the side for attaching a standard CPU fan protective net for it and still have a pretty awesome air flow compared to the enclosed small hole plastic it had.
I will soon be doing a video showing people how to put wind turbine power into lithium batteries the safest and easiest way. There's practically no way to do it because of the BMS as they are now however those smart BMS can be tricked.
Check your facts. Andy has 3 48 volt packs running in parallel with 3 BMS's that you clam will shut down the whole system if one pack fails. Those BMS's have no control over each other. He is testing some BMS's that communicate with each other via communication cables. They are the ones that can control the system. If your batteries setting there are running JBD, or what ever you showed without communication connections, 1 BMS or pack failure WILL NOT shut down your system.
So you don't agree that one battery going bad will shut down your BMS? With a System that is 48 volt, 16 batteries, that is your whole system. Loosing 33% on his system would over load the other 2 and they would shut down.
Yes, but only for that pack. If they're paralleled on a common bus bar, your system would remain active. If what you're describing were true, there would be a problem in your system design. My system never draws more than about 40 percent of the BMS rating on any pack.
@@JOHNDANIEL1highly unlikely it would over load the other 2 batterys and bms's, he's using 100a bms's at 48v but if the load was above 10kw it would over load them and cause the bms to shut down
The video is as it would be obvious is about 12 volt systems, 24 volt if you imagine into it. But a battery is the individual Cell in any system. Not the case or its control methods. So if you have a 3 bank 48 volt battery system (48 cells 3x16s) , unless your lying about your battery, your as most running them over 50% BECAUSE THEY ARE LiFePO4 and high cost, but when you loose 1 single 3.2 volt cell out of your 48 total, you instantly and we have seen it already, have total shut down. This is caused by the remaining load, unless like some you just pissing away money on a 500% over sized, the remaining power usage load will fault out all your batteries as excessive. It's a super critical in 48 volt systems, somewhat bad in 24 volt systems, and in 12 volt systems a inconvenience. It's is beyond ignorant to use 300AH 3.2 volt cells in a 48 volt system unless you got them for near free. You just shit the bed on any redundancy by doing that, no matter how many COOL comments you get from viewers. People who get all pissy about my explanation likely sells replacement batteries.
Johnny Two Chins and Kiera great video. Thanks for the breakdown. I have some amperetime/li-time 100ah batteries and was thinking about a back up bms or even just a different setup when I jump to 24volts system. No matter what a good back up for when shtf seems like good thinking too me.
Thank you John. We are looking for a BMS 19 cells, 70 volt, 80 amps. for a Lipo battery . Can you help us? I live in the Netherlands and want to know where to buy the BMS you are talking about.If you need more data, I can send it to you.
You will send a Email to Kell, He is manager for Minerals Electronics direct Source. kell@minerals8.com Tell him JOHN DANIEL sent you seeking the model you want, have him confirm it with the exact item link to you in a email.
You need a 8S BMS for that. These are non series but I have done it, but the result is they try to charge too high and that can mean bad results. Best thing is the basic JBD s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDNijrV
I'm just getting into this, I have 4x200amp LiFePO4 batteries, that I wish to retrofit into a 48v block, could i do that with this BMS system, or would I?
The intention of the video is 12 volt systems, they are the most realistic for 90% of people and the most available options. When you go over 12 volt to save money on wire, you double you cost on everything else so the plan is to show those options. A 48 volt option is still at the mercy of boutique level suppliers and sources.
Why not just parallel all three of your balance leads together off of each individual BMS wouldn't that give you more balancing power since you are apparently linking all three bms's and they're all linked together for 300AMP. would that increase the balancing output
It utilizes the balancing resistors and transistors from each board through the pins added. By using all the leads you can unbalance the current control on 1 or more of the boards. It works as one master, up to 3 more as followers.
I don't understand why they can't make a simple bms that just works, uses a simple MOSFET array or non constantly powered contactor, a latching contractor, uses a pulse to shut it off, or power on, and be capable of a sustainable 200 amps minimum, there is a guy on UA-cam built a diy bms, made it open source, I started with that, but need to order parts! It does anything you want except make coffee and wipe for ya! 😆, I want to finish the project, I'm not that computer compatible, program chips and such! Could use help! ✌️
The real solution is a 3.65 volt charger/maintainer, Per cell only charger then all the BMS issues fail to exist. The BMS was a dumb thing to design to start with. You would simply put a solid state resetting circuit breaker sized to 80% of the battery real capability, size your power draw to respect that design, and no more computerized nothing. No more Float, no bulk, no Speshul nothing. The charger would take in your solar, split it to 4, 8, 16 leads sized to handle the amps, and it would shut on and off with basic current limiting action. You would wire for 12 or 24 or 48 volts the cells ,but charge each based on the standard charge of 3.65 volts. Common standards used in old school marine systems.
I'm small time DIY project guy with a few lythum batterys in battery boxes, I built a couple of batterys 4 cells each no bms yet I picked up a couple of bms on your recommendation and will give it a try , might need your help, I just in case of a power outage will need to power a frig or cpap, do you have a video on what im trying to do ?
If you want to balance that big chins pack with that pissy balancer/bms it will take forever, most smart bms's let you control when balancing happens and have it like that small one. Most batteries/BMS's can also be connected in parallel, just expect insane current flow between packs as they equalise. Edit: the cost savings are good with what you did though.
Was somebody nasty to your daughter the princess? not hoping so. John help us to decide on our next turbine. We will have the B&C or the GL 600. B&C comes with a clamp system. GL requires us to weld with the flange. GL is 14 kg and the other 11 kg. comes 100 dollars cheaper but with more work. Greetings D&P from the North of the Netherlands.
Great video. You guys have some great videos. Do you have a video building this BMS system? I am new at the battery builds and would love to put all those parts on my 16 cell 48v system.
I use a basic BMS with non compete / non commit design for using in such batteries. They do not have a issue using with other 12 volt batteries. These in 200amp ( s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkCwsjt ) get the pre wired. Mine are kept in my shelves for such a possibility. I bought 5 of them, about $35 each and I put them in a faraday box already. You can use them on 100 amp to 190 amp battery cells and if your needing one for a 200AH to 300 AH get the one listed as 300 amp for that. Reason is the incoming charge cut off design is 50 A and 100 A prospectively.
I saw that you had your bench set up in the last video, with the CNSWI Power 3000 inverter. Will you be talking about that unit soon. I bought one with your recommendation to put in my camper, but now wondering about if it will work for the camper. The shore power has a ground, but the inverter does not. Do I bridge the common and ground at the inverter before going to the rest of the system? Also, Congrats Kiera, All the best on your new channel!!
Now what if i want a smart bms where i can limit the charge state to 80% and start balancing at 80%? Can't program the cheap bms for this. And as long the 4x48V lfp is connected up parallel. They never need to talk to each other. And planning to buy 4 of the same balancer anyway.
What ever solar controller you have if its parameters are adjustable you can set it for stopping at a choice point. 48 volt User settings. I would use GEL battery setting on the controller as a basis, and set top charge at 54.0, float at 51.4 and your about right on 80% to 85% so you get the power in as the cut control.
Yes if you want to have the highest quality I would recommend them. Real 10 year cells, not claimed. So, If you have a RV, tiny house or boat, and are building a 600+ ah system, with 400 ah draw ability, and surge capable of over 1000 amps, then it's is the best bet. I'd recommend 2 complete kits. You can go with DIY, no engineering in that option. But SFK Cells are 304 rated, over 310 actual per cell. Cost is over 20% cheaper per amp than Battleborn and Dakota, but yes its 10 to 20% more than the commercial China dumping made stuff too. However, you can not get pure EV grade from many sources, They SFK are battery cell buyers for industrial motive power, and the Battery kit is just a extra thing they do. Unlike 99% of LiFePO4 and LiPoly sold, the SFK is serviceable, and adaptable, practically none others are.
A Question for the Hill billy Professor :) Is it the Red + or the Blue/Black - the live wire in Direct Current? Like the Ions are - that is traveling in the wire correct. So which one of the wires can you actually get electrocuted by if the voltage is high enough? Like I would think the DC - would be the live wire... Yet.... I'm confused as the standard color for an AC wire is Brown and the + is Red close to it. The Blue is 0 in AC and yet the Black/Blue is minus in DC....
Not that I know of. The video is for 12 volt systems like I was showing. The problem with 24 and 48 volt is it puts you in a whole new specialist gear category that makes you buy only dealer options.
That's awesome Kiera is defensive and all being a young lady! Man, that's awesome. Wow, that's complete bs sounds and looks like maybe she was assaulted. Man, I've been advocating the concealed wireless assault weapons Havana Syndrome Health Attacks stuff that really is more the imminent death and more than threat situation where deadly force needs to be applied in certain situations. I mean, man, though with the laws lack of enforcement in some jurisdictions where they seem to pander those imminent assault, battery and more criminals and their crimes its just gay dangerous. Anyways, I still need to donate more sewing machines and I don't really sew. Interestingly, I got the machines to restore to functionality for making garden and lawn equipment covers and seat covers from free vinyl materials and still haven't done that yet. I do enjoy the machine restoring and test stitching, though did I admit make a few hats and scarfs for my Mom and to donate.
I wound up getting a 2006 Prius and a second battery to practice with the reconditioning and balancing. Though reading like you noted, seems like the vehicle will do the balancing in regards to the less accurate series wiring configuration of the modules blades. Now, using this Thunder T6 thing I just found on Mercari and the Turnegy Reaktor, I'll one by one or maybe in parallel as a last top off, do them all as a "balancing" individually with a spreadsheet to document the charge discharge cycles to see if improvement or junk cells. So is a manual one by one and recondition and document each of the modules so they're balanced and packed where the best cells go in the middle of the pack and the worst on the ends since the heat wears them in the middle from what I'm watching and reading. Figure the modules each have 6 cells in em that I can't really balance so is a crap shoot. No sense in the series charging to further than crap shoot of 168 cells. The parallel charging to balance or maybe do charge discharge cycles is at least more a 28 module crap shoot. Figure best is to charge one by one or at least if all four chargers work on that T6, then I'll be able to do 5 at a time. I got like 13 old DeWalt NiCd's or NiMH's to test and practice with I'm thinking at first here in the next few days. Will be interesting if those can be reconditioned even if for other like small solar cell like powered uses. Thanks for sharing. Interesting.
There probably is some proprietary bullshit in the RoyPow, I can't remember how many you can connect but at this point it is less of a concern for me, just getting some batteries to learn some more and try out things. Thanks for all the Information, yea your daughter looks to be something special compared to all the Feminists running around these days for sure! By the way I got one of those 200A measurement precision watt meter - although I'm struggling to figure everything out - I will read the manual at some point and see if I can get on top of it. Although I thought it would work differently with some of the stats. Not totally sure what is going on but testing it as it goes these many next days. Have some Anderson Pole plugs on the way as well to try out if it is anything. So sick and tired of the many different plugs and hate those MC4 plugs... I've tried to buy some electrical Lego and use them as well for the 12 volts :P It runs from the 5.5mm 12 volt to a electricity LEGO block and from there Lego plugs are connected to stuff. Not sure if it is the way to go, but it works very nicely... Very small wire on those connectors but as long as it is close by there should not be a big loss. Although being a LEGO pieces, you can end up making a short turning them the wrong direction, it tends to happen sometimes. But the Bluetti EB70 station does nicely in turning things off at that point. I have some easy attachment 5.5mm plugs, I have 3 kinds I have tried - but thinking there must be something better - but at least you do not need to warm anything and solder it, either a screw driver or some force will do to have the wires connected to the plug. Like I just tried this Car plug yesterday wanting to move the best connected male plug to something else, with a diode and all - I needed to try 4 times before I got it right - took me way to long to do. Like how easy it would be to just fix a place for connecting each wire with a screw. I have also tried different male car plugs to my Bluetti, and some of them just pops out - like you gotta be kidding me. So much difference between those who connect nicely and those who do not. The same with the 8mm input MPPT on it, it does not even click and after having bought different cables to get bigger/lower mm2/AWG I found out there exist variations where the Female and Male 8mm actually click and have some kind of strength to connect. But the one I have in my Bluetti EB70, a Female Feminist, is just a lose marriage that easily breaks apart. Further there are variations of the plugs, where the male plug can't get deep enough without a Jewish cutting.
Just found your site this morning, hope I can learn learn enough to put a nice battery bank together without making to many mistakes. Will watch your other videos. Do you know how much power all of these BMS's eat up? Just getting into lithium batteries for my rv, got a lot to learn. I'd imagine some use up more power than others. Thanks
The Engine Start versions I am using only have 2 watts of stand by in active mode. Most others use over 13 watts in same mode. In stand by mode none really use over 20 milliamps or 1/8 a watt. Battery internal resistance on LiFePO4 itself uses more. Compared to Lead Acid, its sitting energy use is 1/17th to 1 so no need to worry.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you! Will be buying 4 Lithium 280 AH batteries this week. (16- 3.2 volt cells). Looking for 4 good BMS units and a balancer. The BMS,s need low temp charge protection. Got a lot of work ahead of me. Still learning.
good bms, but that atorch display and shunt will not be accurate... i have one 400amp unit almost 5years and it foesnt measure volts and amps presisely... im looking for qucc smart bms instead for monitoring... it will be more acurate than atorch. rest of your video... just loving it as allways ;)
You can use any battery you want, but common is matched or less of a BMS for your battery. So you can use it on a 130ah, 200ah but not recommended using on a 50ah unless your only intending to use max of 1C of 50 amps.
Super Secret: A DIY battery or even a hacked consumer battery can have as many BMS on it you want as long as they have a identical top and bottom charge rating. So using those cheap 100 amp or even 50 amp $5 BMS on them along with the high dollar DALY or JDB brands will be how you add balancing and option taps on the battery. I should do a video on how, you gave me a great reason.
@@N-Volt I use these, they are cheap but all prices have gone up. 2 options ebay.us/2k9mFw ( really a 50 amp) or s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnEsMnJ ( pick the "4S LifePo4 3.2V 50A" for same one as on Ebay.) The world of Lithium users fail to understand you can put as many as you want on a 4 pack of 3.2 volt battery cells, even on 24 volt with 8s, 48 volt with 16s the same way. I usually use the main 150 to 250 amp BMS for heavy loads such as inverters, and the 20 to 50 amp BMS for making my dedicated safe 12 volt outlets. You get increased balancing at a faster rate with means averaging that is healthy for your battery. Likely I need to do a video on it more in depth.
I use these, they are cheap but all prices have gone up. 2 options ebay.us/2k9mFw ( really a 50 amp) or s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnEsMnJ ( pick the "4S LifePo4 3.2V 50A" for same one as on Ebay.) The world of Lithium users fail to understand you can put as many as you want on a 4 pack of 3.2 volt battery cells, even on 24 volt with 8s, 48 volt with 16s the same way. I usually use the main 150 to 250 amp BMS for heavy loads such as inverters, and the 20 to 50 amp BMS for making my dedicated safe 12 volt outlets. You get increased balancing at a faster rate with means averaging that is healthy for your battery. Likely I need to do a video on it more in depth.
@@greenmenpt They may be, but why? On a few 24 volt installs I did 16 cells, 184AH each, with 2- 24 volt 150 amp BMS, then added 4 of these cheap BMS to gain better balancing on each 3.2 volt, and have 4 of the 30 amp 12 volt outlets needed for lights and items. It allows you to make a 24 or 48 volt bank, but have taps for 12 volt access in the banks. About 250% cheaper without power waste of using a 48 to 12 volt converter.
We stay with the safer voltages, 40 and less and also not requiring higher volts from solar panels in series we get rid of 99% of the chance of fire. We do have 36 volt and 12 volt in our systems. Using Stions on the 36 volt ( 70 volt low amp CIGS Amorphous SOLAR that are fire proof ) and the other 90% is 12 volt. A near 100% of solar panel wiring and fires are due to running them in series. I can show that in a future video. But watch this, ua-cam.com/video/RP2ITBfDBbU/v-deo.htmlsi=gWo18eR39Jxn8AfR to understand IT IS NOT SAFE! The uploader of that video shows the effect, yet fails 100% to connect what I have seen in over 200 installs. Its the failing cell in one panel that is wired in series for higher volts that is heated up in a series wiring and goes up in flames. If you wire ONLY parallel then this can not happen at all. A bad cell, buss bar, diode just stops that panels output. Nothing flows through the damage. As China quality drops, fires rise.
What you are proposing as best BMS solution, is a cheap ''dumb'' BMS with fixed limits. I do agree that DIY batteries are better than premade ones (when done right), but a smart BMS will give you adjustability the way a dumb BMS never could. You could change voltage limits, charging limits, discharging limits, balancing limits, live monitoring and changes on the fly with Bluetooth. Sure all this adjustability requires knowledge to be set up correctly, but a smart BMS will always be superior to a dumb one. The only good thing of a dumb BMS is that it requires less knowledge to set it up.
How about how dumb it is to be Smart Controlled? In 2021 China launched 4 satellites, 4 more again this year. www.space.com/galactic-energy-ceres-1-sea-launch-video-may-2024 All 8+ of the to deliver a 1,800 % high power Blue Tooth and Wi Fi signal for emergency use. None use CDMA, GSM. However, all are over North America and Europe. The US Defense department case against Huawei security info related to "Smart Device Capture". Huawei built all the components in those satellites. The Taiwan media showed evidence that the 6, not 1, balloons that transverse USA during the free for all Biden Bribes Paid FOR agreement with communist was used as signal verification equipment on how effective THOSE satellites would function to wipe us out. Japan has sent technicians to Langley and DC to try to get those satellites' targeted for removal, and was rejected. (Massey/Jordan Docs) Your Battery, to your Refrigerator, to your Ring Camera is 100% owned by China, you go ahead and use all that Smart Stuff. My Dumb Stuff we hillbillies use and are too stupid to own otherwise will still be working when they take over all that "easier stuff the more intelligent people have"! I would argue it takes a real intelligent person NOT to hand the house keys to the burglar! THEY, not you built and embedded all those control systems. And YOU do not have the ability to take over it, they do. Trojan Horse 2024!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Smart BMS uses a low power Bluetooth module (BDLE, 10 meters range at best) and most of them use some form of encryption & passwords. No, I'm not afraid my batteries are going to be taken over by satellites. Not realistic comment. It won't apply to a real situation. I'm just saying a dumb BMS will give you less control. You might want for example to charge your LiFePo4 batteries at 3.55V per cell and not 3.65V to avoid stresses and increase longevity, you can't do this with a dumb BMS. And by the way Bluetooth communication doesn't have to be always on, you can turn it off if you are afraid satellite hijacking scenarios.
Look up SIGNAL BURST technology. They can send you a signal of such power that your system will go into the pre-programmed functions that is in the permanent firmware. Car makers in China and Germany already have sent shut down orders, not 2 way communications, but one way demands via BLUE TOOTH!! from over 200 km away. General Electric has sent same to Air Conditioners via WiFi without a Router in the home to shut down Air Conditioners in Texas last year. They sent it via the power lines according to AEP Energy. And turning off your blue tooth is a lie, it is not ever off. It's just not responding to you! How do you think a device you never connected to will respond to the first use. I set my solar chargers to 14 not 14.6 intentionally to charge to about 95%. They fade and shut off and only return to charge at 13.4 v. No one can alter them so no smart anything is in charge of the outcome.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 You can test it with various methods to see if Bluetooth is really off or not. You could hardwire a manual switch the power line of the Bluetooth module to make it stop when is not needed. Heck on most situations you could remove the Bluetooth module completely if you afraid it so much. All the rest, I consider it unrealistic scenario for every day usage. Dumb BMS will make your cells die faster, simply because it's not adjustable enough.
Pick your 7S from this store, s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DB63A4B the 300 amp is hefty, $45 and solid as a rock in balancing and behavior. Can parallel 5 total on it. For a 24 volt constant 750 current max
the advertised BMS has no communication, you cannot see if a cell is damaged. Id rather use a smart BMS, so I can check it with my phone. This way you also see the total charged capacity and much more
If you want a smart BMS get one. If some country decides to connect to it and shut your battery off they can. A dumb BMS gives nobody but you the power and control. The department of defense has already said that all of these Bluetooth and Wi-Fi controlled items that people are buying can be controlled by China remotely.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 so you have 3 batteries with dumb bms's mounted in parallel, how do you know if one battery has problems? You have no display and no communication with the BMS.... thats a real problem.
@@vb9528 Same way you deal with a Lead Acid battery that may have a cell going bad in it. That's how we did things before people got retarded and depended on technology to replace their common sense.
Not really, these cheap BMS are what is known as Starter battery style. They do a great job of not limiting you to how many 12 volt batteries you can stack in parallel but nothing in them allows over 20 volts.
The handy $15 100A 4S BMS s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkArRMV Here is the 24 volt s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEVagXF ,Atorch Mega Meter System s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBmlSJP Boost Kiera with ko-fi.com/john4kiera 175 Amp Ultimate Power VSR ebay.us/GSLWfk, ⬇ Li Time mini 100A Battery shrsl.com/40kwt, Sun Fun Kits www.sunfunkits.com
If you need help, post your questions.
*TOTAL PROFESSIONAL DESIGNED AFFORDABLE SURVIVAL OFF GRID KIT* amzn.to/42cdjBX
Where is the link on the cheap balance board? Do you know about a 8s version of these $15 boards? I have 24v inverter setup and want to eliminate the battery junction issue in dirt roads and different discharge voltage in series that happens when I don't use trailer that often.... Great video love the way you have raised your daughter..,
how about some recommendation on plastic enclosure for the DIY batteries
You raised her right. She is very intelligent and talented. You have every right to be proud of her. Great info on the bms.👍
WHAAT? How could ANYONE want to harm Kiera. She is a fantastic young woman.
Some people just have a death wish.
I would also add young LADY.
Go Texas!
We have 100’s of people in the U.K. running lithium / lead hybrid from commercially produced batteries with programmable JBD BMSs and with multiple lithium batteries in parallel. The balancer is fully configurable for start voltage, delta to balance and wether to only balance while charging. As the BMS is fully configurable it can be set up with cut off voltages to give best battery life and actually manage the battery rather than just protect it from extremes.
You need quality voltage activated auto isolators and preferably a BMS that is fixed, not programmed. Allowing the lithium to collect the solar, lead acid to collect wind power, you just set the disconnect from your sharing at 30%. Doing it for years I have found numerous ways to do it.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 No I don’t. I have years of graphs that prove it. Fixed BMSs are set to maximise capacity not life and push limits and allow low voltage overcharge from alternators. My lithiums collect solar power just fine, right up until what I choose to define as full. My lead are happy as they are kept on a low float and sit there to protect the alternator when the lithium are full and to act as a buffer for the dump load. There is no need to disconnect sharing at 30% as the voltages become equal then anyway and the lead then start to contribute which, in a boating setup, is fine. The starter battery is kept out of the equation. I too have been doing it for years and found different ways to do it and settled for the one that suits me and my batteries best. There is more than one way to skin a cat as the saying goes for some reason!
@@philbrooke-little7082 I've been using 2 of those JBD BMSs on 2,,, 8s 100Ah batteries that are horrible matched[ cheap], each has a 5 amp cap type balancers working fine .
When she gets her channel up and running, I'll drop over quickly to subscribe to help her numbers. I'll support her more if she does other things like solar or something within the engineering field. She got a knack for learning these skills, proof of past projects. She has learned a lot from you, Dad. John, you got a strong young lady to stand up and start her channel! : )
She was born with challenges no internet stalking thug can outdo. And she has beat them, So when she gets her channel going, it will include solar, hydroponics and her farming as well.
@@JOHNDANIEL1Does these BMS work in a 48v configuration? lets say put 2 in paralell and then those 2 in series with 2 more and so on?
@@steveprofiler they sell a 48V version.
Thank you to you both, for the DISCOVERY.
IT IS THE WAY.
Rather than buying an (Echo Flow) power pack or something proprietary and when it goes wrong.The manufacturer doesn't get back to you after using the customer as a guinea - pig. nearly burning down their campervan.
I have purchased two 12v lithium phosphate batteries to make 24v using the higher voltage keeping heat losses and excessive current down for the 3kw inverter powering the refrigerator or induction hob. coffee machine.or
lights compter when required.
Individual 12 batteries are the way forward giving 12VOLTS for usb charging ect. In the platfom without the need, of an Inverter running.
Using Individual Bluetooths and BMS i can keep an eye on the top ballance and state of charge. Bleeding or changing. Keeping the two 12Volt batteries at a near same State Of Charge Ballance. Work's well when conserving power in emergency situations.
The Best of Both Worlds. 12v and 24v.
Looking forward to your mixing lead and lithium video. Using the lead as a sponge reducing the Amps surge in the Lithium keep the BMS ACTIVELY ON.
I caution anyone going over 24 volt, insist they use as much DC only items they can find, and not wasting money on those very finicky premade limited power stations for their real needs. I am running two 10.2 CUF DC refrigerators in my home, 4 DC freezers, and 90% is DC lighting. I ordered 1000 feet 500 red/500black of 6 awg cable to wire the building with in DC and made 2 mains with 1 awg from the bank to distribution boxes using 28 sized to circuit auto reset circuit breakers into it and 2 auto grade fuse boxes. Even my TV which is only 29" and rarely used is 12 volt, as is my 16 security cameras and monitors. We use the inverters for well pump, 4 Air Conditioners, microwave, some cooking and tools.
You loose over 14% inverting from DC to AC so the cost of going DC mostly is off set by the actual solar and battery you'll need is less overall.
I want a mesh sweater ! I used to knit too- so fun- I know the pain of excessive med bills - I would love more electronics vids like this from her too - she's had a great mentor obviously!
I been running three of the 300amp bmses. Your showing going on 3 years now with no issues
These Dumb BMS items are the safest to use, I get idiots screaming crazy for me showing it and saying not to use the smart bms due to it is taking all your real controls away. They get excited by the BT and UART screen feedback, like cheeto eating video gamers. Those App driven and flowing programmable BMS are constantly screwing up. Already seen 2 now, in 48 and 1 guys 24 volt system be crippled by a damn smart BMS.
You still have control with the settings on your mppt charger and settings on inverters
Young and actual has talent 👍
You guys are like a breath of fresh air. Thank you and God bless you and your family
God bless her every stitch, pa,😊 her dad knows a little bit about this stuff! SO, I'M GOING TO DIG RIGHT IN AND TAKE HEED, ANOTHER PS, (I SHOULD HAVE SAID HE KNOWS A LITTLE BIT MORE THAN I. GODSPEED TO THE BOTH OF YOU.
Thank You John, I recently started seeing your presentations and they are of most informative especially in a real life environment. This episode really explains the ins and outs of BMS and now I know why the parameters of X number of batt in series or parallel are. I just considering purchasing CHINS but now NFW! Still on the fence about Power Queen. Thank You both again. Happy Holidays from S.Fla.
Definitely do the Power Queens. 200ah or 300ah with the 200 amp BMS
Really been enjoying your videos and I think it just saved me from making a mistake on "Johnny Two Chins". Will keep an eye out for your daughters channel to try and support. You guys make a great team and I feel like I've gotten better info out of your videos over many others I had watched until I found your channel. Thanks so much!
Your knowledge in the batteries and related is awesome. I will be rewatching this video many times to try and figure out what I need to know.
yeah I havn't a clue whats going on here.
#THISISTHEWAY
People who want toys, they need all the flashing lights and blue tooth apps running their world. Already seen these screwing up so bad I was looking for a fix. *Keep It Simple Stupid* seems to be the best outcome yet again.
hey john i don,t use bms i only use battery balancer only, i set the charger for controller at 138 to 14 v only so far it been working for 4 years now when sun goes down they seem to float at 13.2 13 4 it works for me i do all diy life04 all so been use ing a charger on each bat
If you have enough cells, 150% or so of your actual top needs, you only need such a set up. A BMS is for short protection, over draw protection, and over charge protection. But you can bypass a BMS with common sense and a few parts like over load breakers and proper under voltage disconnects. A balancer is good to gain longer cell life, and the best are just the 1/2 amp per cell and never charge over 14.4 if in a 12 volt system.
I learn a lot from John, thanks for all that you do. I look forward to learning more about that Ultimate Power device and how to connect lead acid and LiPo4 batteries together. Cheers from Fort Worth TX
Cheers also from Bangs Texas
thanks for the come back i like your video,s they have good common sense
Going to look in to that.
Interesting 🧐 for my new battery build
Looking on your aliexpress list. I have a JL1000 1000w 5 blade 24v wind turbine. What do you suggest for a MPPT hybrid wind/solar. Want max solar.
She needs to get into, the uk as healthcare is free.
We all pay 5% of are wages so were guaranteed healthcare.
It's not perfect but works.
I have lots of friends in UK, many say that ESG and quotas now make them wait 3x as long if they are white or perceived to be white. Same thing going on it Canada though. They offer you suicide before they offer you health care, but ONLY if your white. Its banned to offer if your otherwise.
Im a 17 year old, i build my own Lifepo4 packs, me being money limited i do it dirt cheap, currently having a 200Ah 12v with a Programmable Bluetooth bms, its only 100amps but the reason i bought a programmable one is due to the fact im upgrading this battery pack to 400+ah with scrap 26650 batteries. Im extremely smart with electronics and im going to upgrade my bms to 400amps, with only $50 of parts, the bms is worth $75. I may be making a video on this, no one on the internet has ever thought of upgrading a bms. I can program the bms to 400Amps and calibrate the current reading when i upgrade to a 400Amp shunt. So that it will read normal but can handle 400amps. This also keeps my battery % accurate and makes me save a ton of money.
Stay at it, and use results not hype as your leading methods to progress.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 might make a new channel and make vidoes, its a dream but lack of motivation is my problem haha. Ill get there at some point. I wanna be able to help people out and actually have educational videos and stuff.
Im sure it would be extremely educational of physically upgrading a bms for cheap to handle more current. Finding cheap cells for cheap to build a lifepo4 pack. I shoulvr made a video if my 4000watt pure sine inverter i bought for only $125, its worth $750 new, it was Dead on arrival and i fixed it in 30 minutes. Couldve showed how to fix a broken inverter. May buy broken things for videos to fix and show how to save money.
@@joshwayop here i am, the person who could use this knowledge haha
Hope ms kiera is doing better can't believe anyone would want to upset our girl.
Balancing is the least of the tasks of a BMS. The primary task is to ensure you don't over charge or over discharge your batteries and, if equipped, keep you from charging/discharging when it is too cold to do so without damaging the cells. Many BMS's don't even have balancing, or if they do it doesn't work well. Once a battery is top balanced, which you can do by connecting all cells in parallel for a while, they should never get out of balance, unless you have a faulty cell, which a balancing BMS isn't going to fix.
Hey John, I have a question. You’ve given me inspiration to DIY, bat build. I have a vintage Japanese RV with a 2.8Litre diesel. Can I run a single say 300AH lifepo4 bat for starting and house? Would I need a Dc - dc charger? Assuming my alternator will put out 14.6 volts. Appreciate any suggestions?
Single 300 Ah battery would not be commonly designed as a starter rated battery. Most 300 ah and even 400 ah sold on the market only have a max of a 200 amp output, and may peak for a single second at 400 to 500 but will fault quick on most starter loads. The BMS in them is capable, but most of them are not made in their design for starting purposes. A pair of 200 amp with 200 amp draw ability are much more capable to do that engine starting if you wire for it.
Thanks for the quick reply!
@@JOHNDANIEL1Would it make a difference to add a powerful capacitor pack as the first buffer?
Hi Aubrey. It's preferable if you use the 300ah lifepo4 battery for house only. Just leave your existing lead acid battery for starting. Use a dc - dc charger to charge your lifepo4. You can always add solar if you need additional charging?
Yes to Gordon. Using the lead acid in the van for engine is best outcome. Making a controlled charging system for your Lithium off that lead acid is best till automotive electrical systems catch up with computerized batteries.
Both the active and passive balancing system fails in LiFePO4 battery packs. They work fairly in Li-ion and Li-Po battery packs. Any suggestions to balance LiFePO4 battery packs?
Yes, a flat rate charger. And if I had the $$$$ I would build one. Fact is, a BMS is pure BS. You can have 500 cells or 4, what you need is isolated direct cell charging. Each cell gets 3.65 volts, Not 14.6 shared by all 4 in a 12 volt. 12,24,48, 60 volt battery won't matter. If, and I do, can use a 12 volt charger to charge a 48 volt AGM battery bank by charging each 12 volt as a independent then why not 3.2 or 3.7 for Lithium. Because THEY want to rip you off.
How’s the Razor Ecosmart scooter holding up? With the upgrade
Doing great.
I found a solution to this myself. About a ton of lead, and ten gallons of battery acid. My BMS is a piece of #4 welding lead.
My best battery choice remains old school Lead Acid. To keep it at top voltage to extend it's life a few LiFePO4 for sustaining over 12.4 volts when needed. My remote items, RV and well pump are Lithium due to the single use aspect.
The problem with Lithium is they are difficult to build into massive banks due to the industry who makes them are short sited like tic tok viewers.
@14:27 where did you find this i dont see a link to the vendor
she could knit flexible copper cables for your energy banks,,
INTRO Kiera / Kiero GREAT Knicking Best Good LUCK with Your New YT Channel👍👍⬆️
This sounds great if I could use it for 8S 25.6V batteries i am having … Is there one of these available for 8S battery ? What about 16S - how do you use these for 8S - 16S ?
*John is the best kind of Correct... 100% correct!* Been waiting for this video for a while :) I knew it was coming! #THISISTHEWAY #THANKYOU
Sure thing. It totally goes against the hard core folks who need the blinking lights, 3X the cost, foreign software control, and blue tooth feedback, but its fact.
Im sorry for what ever is going i because ive just now found your videos since im just getting into solar to power my off grid tiny house ive watched a few of your videos thank you so much for the information im able to get
The average Tiny house, 400 square feet and smaller is best served using a 12 volt system, if your intent is cost and surviving the pending world wide catastrophes the elites are creating. I suggest 1200 to 1800 watts solar, and get it while it is available, it will disappear like toilet paper did on the covid scares first month. The link under the video to a list of parts helps.
Thank you for all your great content. I have to build a 48v battery because that is what is required for my all in one growatt inverter. Could I build 4 12v (4s) packs and combine in series using a bms for each 12v (4s) pack, 4 total?
These are designed as engine start rated, so I doubt that they can be placed into 48v 4S. I recommend using a deliberate 48V BMS with 16 leads on it, and always over buy the rating on them to defeat china math over exaggeration of ability!
OK, Now I am watching this. Cool.
I tried to find that balancer from your video and couldn't. The battery isolator is much more expensive now. I have 4 of the 4s 100A and one of the 8s 200A in my cart along with a collection of 6A active BMSs that I found using key words in the item names. It looks like I'm going to be searching for a 16s 120A to 180A for a while longer. Simple ones are hard to find.
A BMS with tons of options always gives you tons of trouble. Try the Heltec 16S
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmrpZqh
So I'm building a 12v 4s 148ah lev60f para cells it's capable of 600a I need a 300a bms and want bt monitor ,DC to DC charhe for my overland rig
So there are electrical engineers that just gate keep all this . And I will def sub to her channel I'm new to this solar batt stuff . So thanks
OK now you have opened a can of new worms, and I'm paying close attention. I have one set-up of PRIMO8HP LITHIUM LION 24VDC- 8 batteries ON An 8000 WATT SPLIT PHASE..
These are 3.7 nominal 4.2 chg, and my Lipo 4 is 3.2 can I make a stack for all eight? As you have done?. Thank You in advance for the info, and keep those videos coming big help and damn sure budget-friendly. Mike said all that.
I've heard that we're not suppose to mix different brand lithium phosphate batteries. Is this 100% true? I bought an SOK 12v 100ah battery a little ways back, but after watching your video about the power queen batteries, I want to try one or two. Would it be a mistake to parallel a 12v 100ah Power Queen with the SOK battery I have?
As long as you do not get smaller in capacity and capability. I have not had a problem mixing a Unowix with Power Queen, and Unowix and SOK use the same BMS. I would buy them through Amazon though amzn.to/42wav21 because they are fully covered by Amazon as well as Power Queen group. Same price, but better customer outcome.
Thanks Daniel, appreciate the reply and will use your Amazon links. Also really appreciate your video on grounding. It cleared a lot up for me as I had gone done the UA-cam rabbit hole about to ground or not to ground and while I kind of leaned towards floating, there are many who argue that and insist you need an earth ground. Your reasoning seems to make the most sense to me so I have gone with that. Thank you!
@@keep-it-real6926 Just remember, If you earth ground your solar panel frames, for the same illogical reasons they use, be sure to buy a few hundred feet of the same 8 awg bare copper they use, which can not handle a lightning strike, but is awesome as a lightning magnet right before it melts in half and sends your presents form the weather Gods. We here are "Not gonna do it University" will continue to use a remote diversion lightning device called a piece of rebar and a higher spot to solve the issue.
HEY JOHN I HAVE 6 OF THEM CHEAP BMS I WAS GOING TO TRY USE 8 GAUGE WIRE WHAT CAN YOU USE I HAVE 74AH CELLS AND 100AH CELLS THANK YOU
I have 2 RoyPow Batteries incoming of those kinds, 30 Ah - they where not cheap but... I think they probably are a good start to try out things, Serial, Parallel and trying out stuff trying out by doing stuff :P Trying to get a MarsRock Controller although they did not have the 4000 watt in store. So seeing if I can get the 3000 Watt, which should be more then fine for my dimension and system.
What sold me to buying them was that they put the Wh data and other such thing on the battery itself - so sick and tired of vain data details on things.
I have gotten the Charger RoyPow 10 Amps 12 Volt and tried it with the Gel battery I have and it seemed to work although the charger say exclusively Lithium Iron Phophate although the sellers are adviticing on Amazon say they can do old kinds of batteries, yet the package and manual don't seem to say so which is kinda odd....
But whatever the case, Batteries are incoming - so that will be interesting to try out. And then I just need the controller and I'm on my way to trying things out, or exploding something, either way... Getting some experience.
SunFunKit looks very interesting if you wanna go deeper into understanding batteries. They also have connection of Serial, Parallel and Serial Parallel picture, very nice.
I think if you go to them and use JOHN DANIEL or POKY as a discount code you can cut $50 or more. They do make a impressive kit, and it is capable of multiple in series and parallel.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I'm sure someone will use that :) I now have those RoyPow Batteries to toy around with and...
A renter who don't want me to have my solar panels up and windmill attached to on the outside of the balcony. Well.... So things to sort out.
I'm thinking I might get around with some Parasol stones and put something out, you can get some pretty heavy stones and put a metal rod in it and I guess string some solar panels and the Windmill on them if I get a couple of them.
We will see.
The Bluetti EB70 I have has 2 fans - but they are obstructed by the fan input and output air intake and outtake. So I made some big holes on both sides and they are now blowing very nicely although don't have the tools to test the difference, it clearly blows much more air through the system for cooling it down now. Of cause you don't wanna put your fingers into the holes, as the protection is gone on that level. Although, it is possible to get some protection as there are holes in the side for attaching a standard CPU fan protective net for it and still have a pretty awesome air flow compared to the enclosed small hole plastic it had.
But will it work with a wind turbine/solar system?
I will soon be doing a video showing people how to put wind turbine power into lithium batteries the safest and easiest way. There's practically no way to do it because of the BMS as they are now however those smart BMS can be tricked.
My 18yr old really likes to knit too
Prayers John / family may Jesus and his warrior angels guard you all from all evil
I was wondering about that I'm new to diy lifepo4. You. Gotta pay 150$ + 50$ just to parallel 2 together
Check your facts. Andy has 3 48 volt packs running in parallel with 3 BMS's that you clam will shut down the whole system if one pack fails. Those BMS's have no control over each other.
He is testing some BMS's that communicate with each other via communication cables. They are the ones that can control the system. If your batteries setting there are running JBD, or what ever you showed without communication connections, 1 BMS or pack failure WILL NOT shut down your system.
So you don't agree that one battery going bad will shut down your BMS? With a System that is 48 volt, 16 batteries, that is your whole system. Loosing 33% on his system would over load the other 2 and they would shut down.
Yes, but only for that pack. If they're paralleled on a common bus bar, your system would remain active. If what you're describing were true, there would be a problem in your system design. My system never draws more than about 40 percent of the BMS rating on any pack.
The BMS is supposed to shut down the battery in case of a parameter out of tolerance. That, and balancing is its job!
@@JOHNDANIEL1highly unlikely it would over load the other 2 batterys and bms's, he's using 100a bms's at 48v but if the load was above 10kw it would over load them and cause the bms to shut down
The video is as it would be obvious is about 12 volt systems, 24 volt if you imagine into it. But a battery is the individual Cell in any system. Not the case or its control methods. So if you have a 3 bank 48 volt battery system (48 cells 3x16s) , unless your lying about your battery, your as most running them over 50% BECAUSE THEY ARE LiFePO4 and high cost, but when you loose 1 single 3.2 volt cell out of your 48 total, you instantly and we have seen it already, have total shut down. This is caused by the remaining load, unless like some you just pissing away money on a 500% over sized, the remaining power usage load will fault out all your batteries as excessive. It's a super critical in 48 volt systems, somewhat bad in 24 volt systems, and in 12 volt systems a inconvenience. It's is beyond ignorant to use 300AH 3.2 volt cells in a 48 volt system unless you got them for near free. You just shit the bed on any redundancy by doing that, no matter how many COOL comments you get from viewers.
People who get all pissy about my explanation likely sells replacement batteries.
Do you have a link to 48V versions of these dandy BMS units?
No, they are 12 volt style only. But I can build massive using them.
Johnny Two Chins and Kiera great video. Thanks for the breakdown. I have some amperetime/li-time 100ah batteries and was thinking about a back up bms or even just a different setup when I jump to 24volts system. No matter what a good back up for when shtf seems like good thinking too me.
Hope I spelled her name right. I tried.
Thank you John. We are looking for a BMS 19 cells, 70 volt, 80 amps. for a Lipo battery . Can you help us? I live in the Netherlands and want to know where to buy the BMS you are talking about.If you need more data, I can send it to you.
You will send a Email to Kell, He is manager for Minerals Electronics direct Source. kell@minerals8.com Tell him JOHN DANIEL sent you seeking the model you want, have him confirm it with the exact item link to you in a email.
Can I ask how you use these 4s bms units in 24v or more. Do you just buy a bunch and make 12volt independent batteries and stack them up in P?
You need a 8S BMS for that. These are non series but I have done it, but the result is they try to charge too high and that can mean bad results. Best thing is the basic JBD s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDNijrV
where did you find the purple balancer active
I'm just getting into this, I have 4x200amp LiFePO4 batteries, that I wish to retrofit into a 48v block, could i do that with this BMS system, or would I?
The intention of the video is 12 volt systems, they are the most realistic for 90% of people and the most available options. When you go over 12 volt to save money on wire, you double you cost on everything else so the plan is to show those options. A 48 volt option is still at the mercy of boutique level suppliers and sources.
Would you happen to have the link to the 7 dollar card? For balanceing
Why not just parallel all three of your balance leads together off of each individual BMS wouldn't that give you more balancing power since you are apparently linking all three bms's and they're all linked together for 300AMP. would that increase the balancing output
It utilizes the balancing resistors and transistors from each board through the pins added. By using all the leads you can unbalance the current control on 1 or more of the boards. It works as one master, up to 3 more as followers.
Is there a link for those $3.00 2.3 watt balancers you mentioned in this video? Not really sure where to look for them on AliExpress.
good luck miss kira❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
I don't understand why they can't make a simple bms that just works, uses a simple MOSFET array or non constantly powered contactor, a latching contractor, uses a pulse to shut it off, or power on, and be capable of a sustainable 200 amps minimum, there is a guy on UA-cam built a diy bms, made it open source, I started with that, but need to order parts! It does anything you want except make coffee and wipe for ya! 😆, I want to finish the project, I'm not that computer compatible, program chips and such! Could use help! ✌️
The real solution is a 3.65 volt charger/maintainer, Per cell only charger then all the BMS issues fail to exist. The BMS was a dumb thing to design to start with. You would simply put a solid state resetting circuit breaker sized to 80% of the battery real capability, size your power draw to respect that design, and no more computerized nothing. No more Float, no bulk, no Speshul nothing.
The charger would take in your solar, split it to 4, 8, 16 leads sized to handle the amps, and it would shut on and off with basic current limiting action. You would wire for 12 or 24 or 48 volts the cells ,but charge each based on the standard charge of 3.65 volts. Common standards used in old school marine systems.
I never got why so many people were obsessed with constant balancing. Only makes sense when you are like 90% of the way to fully charging the pack.
same here, we'll quickly subscribe
I'm small time DIY project guy with a few lythum batterys in battery boxes, I built a couple of batterys 4 cells each no bms yet I picked up a couple of bms on your recommendation and will give it a try , might need your help, I just in case of a power outage will need to power a frig or cpap, do you have a video on what im trying to do ?
Not yet but that's coming one day. I have been constant the last 3+ months with physical therapy hassles so not doing lots for now.
If you want to balance that big chins pack with that pissy balancer/bms it will take forever, most smart bms's let you control when balancing happens and have it like that small one. Most batteries/BMS's can also be connected in parallel, just expect insane current flow between packs as they equalise. Edit: the cost savings are good with what you did though.
Can u use this in series? for like 48v system ? , and is it possible to read out the voltage on every cell ?
They handle 24 volt, but for 48 volt you need the next model and they are currently out of them, 60 amp per model max.
Was somebody nasty to your daughter the princess? not hoping so. John help us to decide on our next turbine. We will have the B&C or the GL 600. B&C comes with a clamp system. GL requires us to weld with the flange. GL is 14 kg and the other 11 kg. comes 100 dollars cheaper but with more work. Greetings D&P from the North of the Netherlands.
Go with the Green Energy or B&C 600 flange models. Take it to a Muffler Shop to have it welded for you, those places do that very fast and cheaply.
Great video. You guys have some great videos. Do you have a video building this BMS system? I am new at the battery builds and would love to put all those parts on my 16 cell 48v system.
Is it possible to purchase a replacement BMS for a LiTime LifePO4 12v Battery in case of EMP damage? I can’t seem to find any info on this. Thanks
I use a basic BMS with non compete / non commit design for using in such batteries. They do not have a issue using with other 12 volt batteries. These in 200amp ( s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkCwsjt ) get the pre wired. Mine are kept in my shelves for such a possibility. I bought 5 of them, about $35 each and I put them in a faraday box already. You can use them on 100 amp to 190 amp battery cells and if your needing one for a 200AH to 300 AH get the one listed as 300 amp for that. Reason is the incoming charge cut off design is 50 A and 100 A prospectively.
@@JOHNDANIEL1
Thanks!
I saw that you had your bench set up in the last video, with the CNSWI Power 3000 inverter. Will you be talking about that unit soon. I bought one with your recommendation to put in my camper, but now wondering about if it will work for the camper. The shore power has a ground, but the inverter does not. Do I bridge the common and ground at the inverter before going to the rest of the system? Also, Congrats Kiera, All the best on your new channel!!
That's the plan!
You should get a stand for your camera or gimbal to much movement
Now what if i want a smart bms where i can limit the charge state to 80% and start balancing at 80%? Can't program the cheap bms for this. And as long the 4x48V lfp is connected up parallel. They never need to talk to each other. And planning to buy 4 of the same balancer anyway.
Set your solar controller to GEL battery, max charge of 14.0 and Float at 13.0 even and you won't have that issue.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 didn't say it. But it's lfp 13s packs.
What ever solar controller you have if its parameters are adjustable you can set it for stopping at a choice point. 48 volt User settings. I would use GEL battery setting on the controller as a basis, and set top charge at 54.0, float at 51.4 and your about right on 80% to 85% so you get the power in as the cut control.
What's with SunFun prices? YOU SERioysly recommend them?
Yes if you want to have the highest quality I would recommend them. Real 10 year cells, not claimed. So, If you have a RV, tiny house or boat, and are building a 600+ ah system, with 400 ah draw ability, and surge capable of over 1000 amps, then it's is the best bet. I'd recommend 2 complete kits. You can go with DIY, no engineering in that option. But SFK Cells are 304 rated, over 310 actual per cell. Cost is over 20% cheaper per amp than Battleborn and Dakota, but yes its 10 to 20% more than the commercial China dumping made stuff too. However, you can not get pure EV grade from many sources, They SFK are battery cell buyers for industrial motive power, and the Battery kit is just a extra thing they do. Unlike 99% of LiFePO4 and LiPoly sold, the SFK is serviceable, and adaptable, practically none others are.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I've seen just a few of your videos and that has been enough to trust what you say. Thank you for the clarification.
Happy Easter to you and yours.
Same to you!
A Question for the Hill billy Professor :) Is it the Red + or the Blue/Black - the live wire in Direct Current?
Like the Ions are - that is traveling in the wire correct. So which one of the wires can you actually get electrocuted by if the voltage is high enough?
Like I would think the DC - would be the live wire... Yet.... I'm confused as the standard color for an AC wire is Brown and the + is Red close to it. The Blue is 0 in AC and yet the Black/Blue is minus in DC....
Research marine DC wiring for your area
good stuff jack
WHAT THE F IS WRONG WTH THESE KIDS TODAY? HOPE HE GETS IT BACK 10 FOLD LIKE THE BIBLE SAYS. I'LL SIGN UP FOR KIERA,TOO.
The world is going mad, it's absolute destiny of our species.
Can I connect 4 in series to make a 48v battery pack
Not that I know of. The video is for 12 volt systems like I was showing. The problem with 24 and 48 volt is it puts you in a whole new specialist gear category that makes you buy only dealer options.
That's awesome Kiera is defensive and all being a young lady! Man, that's awesome. Wow, that's complete bs sounds and looks like maybe she was assaulted. Man, I've been advocating the concealed wireless assault weapons Havana Syndrome Health Attacks stuff that really is more the imminent death and more than threat situation where deadly force needs to be applied in certain situations. I mean, man, though with the laws lack of enforcement in some jurisdictions where they seem to pander those imminent assault, battery and more criminals and their crimes its just gay dangerous. Anyways, I still need to donate more sewing machines and I don't really sew. Interestingly, I got the machines to restore to functionality for making garden and lawn equipment covers and seat covers from free vinyl materials and still haven't done that yet. I do enjoy the machine restoring and test stitching, though did I admit make a few hats and scarfs for my Mom and to donate.
I wound up getting a 2006 Prius and a second battery to practice with the reconditioning and balancing. Though reading like you noted, seems like the vehicle will do the balancing in regards to the less accurate series wiring configuration of the modules blades. Now, using this Thunder T6 thing I just found on Mercari and the Turnegy Reaktor, I'll one by one or maybe in parallel as a last top off, do them all as a "balancing" individually with a spreadsheet to document the charge discharge cycles to see if improvement or junk cells. So is a manual one by one and recondition and document each of the modules so they're balanced and packed where the best cells go in the middle of the pack and the worst on the ends since the heat wears them in the middle from what I'm watching and reading. Figure the modules each have 6 cells in em that I can't really balance so is a crap shoot. No sense in the series charging to further than crap shoot of 168 cells. The parallel charging to balance or maybe do charge discharge cycles is at least more a 28 module crap shoot. Figure best is to charge one by one or at least if all four chargers work on that T6, then I'll be able to do 5 at a time. I got like 13 old DeWalt NiCd's or NiMH's to test and practice with I'm thinking at first here in the next few days. Will be interesting if those can be reconditioned even if for other like small solar cell like powered uses. Thanks for sharing. Interesting.
Thanks!
There probably is some proprietary bullshit in the RoyPow, I can't remember how many you can connect but at this point it is less of a concern for me, just getting some batteries to learn some more and try out things. Thanks for all the Information, yea your daughter looks to be something special compared to all the Feminists running around these days for sure!
By the way I got one of those 200A measurement precision watt meter - although I'm struggling to figure everything out - I will read the manual at some point and see if I can get on top of it. Although I thought it would work differently with some of the stats. Not totally sure what is going on but testing it as it goes these many next days.
Have some Anderson Pole plugs on the way as well to try out if it is anything. So sick and tired of the many different plugs and hate those MC4 plugs... I've tried to buy some electrical Lego and use them as well for the 12 volts :P It runs from the 5.5mm 12 volt to a electricity LEGO block and from there Lego plugs are connected to stuff. Not sure if it is the way to go, but it works very nicely... Very small wire on those connectors but as long as it is close by there should not be a big loss. Although being a LEGO pieces, you can end up making a short turning them the wrong direction, it tends to happen sometimes. But the Bluetti EB70 station does nicely in turning things off at that point.
I have some easy attachment 5.5mm plugs, I have 3 kinds I have tried - but thinking there must be something better - but at least you do not need to warm anything and solder it, either a screw driver or some force will do to have the wires connected to the plug. Like I just tried this Car plug yesterday wanting to move the best connected male plug to something else, with a diode and all - I needed to try 4 times before I got it right - took me way to long to do. Like how easy it would be to just fix a place for connecting each wire with a screw.
I have also tried different male car plugs to my Bluetti, and some of them just pops out - like you gotta be kidding me. So much difference between those who connect nicely and those who do not. The same with the 8mm input MPPT on it, it does not even click and after having bought different cables to get bigger/lower mm2/AWG I found out there exist variations where the Female and Male 8mm actually click and have some kind of strength to connect. But the one I have in my Bluetti EB70, a Female Feminist, is just a lose marriage that easily breaks apart. Further there are variations of the plugs, where the male plug can't get deep enough without a Jewish cutting.
Great advice! Much appreciated. Thanks👍
Mr John and kiera . I need your help . With what components to buy for my first battery build. I. Became a supporter wanna learn
Figure out your intended size of build, needs you will have and send me a Email with that info. olympicpowercontrols@yahoo.com
I want to see her knitting channel --- pearl and plain ! is superba !!!
We are raising some extra money for her materials as fast as we can.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I like very much is good skill darlinks
Just found your site this morning, hope I can learn learn enough to put a nice battery bank together without making to many mistakes. Will watch your other videos. Do you know how much power all of these BMS's eat up? Just getting into lithium batteries for my rv, got a lot to learn. I'd imagine some use up more power than others. Thanks
The Engine Start versions I am using only have 2 watts of stand by in active mode. Most others use over 13 watts in same mode. In stand by mode none really use over 20 milliamps or 1/8 a watt. Battery internal resistance on LiFePO4 itself uses more. Compared to Lead Acid, its sitting energy use is 1/17th to 1 so no need to worry.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you! Will be buying 4 Lithium 280 AH batteries this week. (16- 3.2 volt cells). Looking for 4 good BMS units and a balancer. The BMS,s need low temp charge protection. Got a lot of work ahead of me. Still learning.
Consider me subscribed Kiera! She is so modest and bright!
She saw it, and the kofi alert. Huge smiles.
good bms, but that atorch display and shunt will not be accurate... i have one 400amp unit almost 5years and it foesnt measure volts and amps presisely... im looking for qucc smart bms instead for monitoring... it will be more acurate than atorch. rest of your video... just loving it as allways ;)
In 5 years they have improved, so far its real close on accuracy but testing it will continue.
I'm not a conspiracy theorist, but my frozen pizza smelled like crickets. Not drinking milk anymore.
OK, so I'm not the only one getting that extra crispy mystery meat on my pizza......
@@JOHNDANIEL1 insect protein is not required to be listed on the ingredients, but allows for reduction in pepperoni.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 they have successfully vaccinated rats, by feeding them modified cows milk, from mRNA injected milk cows. 🙄
with the 100amp board do you have to usa a 100 amp battery
You can use any battery you want, but common is matched or less of a BMS for your battery. So you can use it on a 130ah, 200ah but not recommended using on a 50ah unless your only intending to use max of 1C of 50 amps.
great info thanks very much
Any link available for smaller balancer ? TIA
Balancer only, ebay.us/GgTaAi & BMS for additional tap and balancing use ebay.us/rtAXO6 .
great video, did not find the link of $7.5 that work as balancer ?
Super Secret: A DIY battery or even a hacked consumer battery can have as many BMS on it you want as long as they have a identical top and bottom charge rating. So using those cheap 100 amp or even 50 amp $5 BMS on them along with the high dollar DALY or JDB brands will be how you add balancing and option taps on the battery. I should do a video on how, you gave me a great reason.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 do you know if these bms can be connected in serie to get for ex 24v or 48v ?
@@N-Volt I use these, they are cheap but all prices have gone up. 2 options ebay.us/2k9mFw ( really a 50 amp) or s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnEsMnJ ( pick the "4S LifePo4 3.2V 50A" for same one as on Ebay.)
The world of Lithium users fail to understand you can put as many as you want on a 4 pack of 3.2 volt battery cells, even on 24 volt with 8s, 48 volt with 16s the same way.
I usually use the main 150 to 250 amp BMS for heavy loads such as inverters, and the 20 to 50 amp BMS for making my dedicated safe 12 volt outlets. You get increased balancing at a faster rate with means averaging that is healthy for your battery. Likely I need to do a video on it more in depth.
I use these, they are cheap but all prices have gone up. 2 options ebay.us/2k9mFw ( really a 50 amp) or s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnEsMnJ ( pick the "4S LifePo4 3.2V 50A" for same one as on Ebay.)
The world of Lithium users fail to understand you can put as many as you want on a 4 pack of 3.2 volt battery cells, even on 24 volt with 8s, 48 volt with 16s the same way.
I usually use the main 150 to 250 amp BMS for heavy loads such as inverters, and the 20 to 50 amp BMS for making my dedicated safe 12 volt outlets. You get increased balancing at a faster rate with means averaging that is healthy for your battery. Likely I need to do a video on it more in depth.
@@greenmenpt They may be, but why? On a few 24 volt installs I did 16 cells, 184AH each, with 2- 24 volt 150 amp BMS, then added 4 of these cheap BMS to gain better balancing on each 3.2 volt, and have 4 of the 30 amp 12 volt outlets needed for lights and items. It allows you to make a 24 or 48 volt bank, but have taps for 12 volt access in the banks. About 250% cheaper without power waste of using a 48 to 12 volt converter.
can you connect these to 8s 24v or only for 12v
Here is the 24 volt s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEVagXF
hello can you post link for 48v version TIA
We stay with the safer voltages, 40 and less and also not requiring higher volts from solar panels in series we get rid of 99% of the chance of fire. We do have 36 volt and 12 volt in our systems. Using Stions on the 36 volt ( 70 volt low amp CIGS Amorphous SOLAR that are fire proof ) and the other 90% is 12 volt. A near 100% of solar panel wiring and fires are due to running them in series. I can show that in a future video. But watch this, ua-cam.com/video/RP2ITBfDBbU/v-deo.htmlsi=gWo18eR39Jxn8AfR to understand IT IS NOT SAFE! The uploader of that video shows the effect, yet fails 100% to connect what I have seen in over 200 installs. Its the failing cell in one panel that is wired in series for higher volts that is heated up in a series wiring and goes up in flames. If you wire ONLY parallel then this can not happen at all. A bad cell, buss bar, diode just stops that panels output. Nothing flows through the damage. As China quality drops, fires rise.
What you are proposing as best BMS solution, is a cheap ''dumb'' BMS with fixed limits. I do agree that DIY batteries are better than premade ones (when done right), but a smart BMS will give you adjustability the way a dumb BMS never could. You could change voltage limits, charging limits, discharging limits, balancing limits, live monitoring and changes on the fly with Bluetooth. Sure all this adjustability requires knowledge to be set up correctly, but a smart BMS will always be superior to a dumb one. The only good thing of a dumb BMS is that it requires less knowledge to set it up.
How about how dumb it is to be Smart Controlled? In 2021 China launched 4 satellites, 4 more again this year. www.space.com/galactic-energy-ceres-1-sea-launch-video-may-2024 All 8+ of the to deliver a 1,800 % high power Blue Tooth and Wi Fi signal for emergency use. None use CDMA, GSM. However, all are over North America and Europe. The US Defense department case against Huawei security info related to "Smart Device Capture". Huawei built all the components in those satellites. The Taiwan media showed evidence that the 6, not 1, balloons that transverse USA during the free for all Biden Bribes Paid FOR agreement with communist was used as signal verification equipment on how effective THOSE satellites would function to wipe us out.
Japan has sent technicians to Langley and DC to try to get those satellites' targeted for removal, and was rejected. (Massey/Jordan Docs)
Your Battery, to your Refrigerator, to your Ring Camera is 100% owned by China, you go ahead and use all that Smart Stuff. My Dumb Stuff we hillbillies use and are too stupid to own otherwise will still be working when they take over all that "easier stuff the more intelligent people have"! I would argue it takes a real intelligent person NOT to hand the house keys to the burglar!
THEY, not you built and embedded all those control systems. And YOU do not have the ability to take over it, they do. Trojan Horse 2024!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Smart BMS uses a low power Bluetooth module (BDLE, 10 meters range at best) and most of them use some form of encryption & passwords. No, I'm not afraid my batteries are going to be taken over by satellites. Not realistic comment. It won't apply to a real situation. I'm just saying a dumb BMS will give you less control. You might want for example to charge your LiFePo4 batteries at 3.55V per cell and not 3.65V to avoid stresses and increase longevity, you can't do this with a dumb BMS. And by the way Bluetooth communication doesn't have to be always on, you can turn it off if you are afraid satellite hijacking scenarios.
Look up SIGNAL BURST technology. They can send you a signal of such power that your system will go into the pre-programmed functions that is in the permanent firmware. Car makers in China and Germany already have sent shut down orders, not 2 way communications, but one way demands via BLUE TOOTH!! from over 200 km away. General Electric has sent same to Air Conditioners via WiFi without a Router in the home to shut down Air Conditioners in Texas last year. They sent it via the power lines according to AEP Energy. And turning off your blue tooth is a lie, it is not ever off. It's just not responding to you! How do you think a device you never connected to will respond to the first use.
I set my solar chargers to 14 not 14.6 intentionally to charge to about 95%. They fade and shut off and only return to charge at 13.4 v. No one can alter them so no smart anything is in charge of the outcome.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 You can test it with various methods to see if Bluetooth is really off or not. You could hardwire a manual switch the power line of the Bluetooth module to make it stop when is not needed. Heck on most situations you could remove the Bluetooth module completely if you afraid it so much. All the rest, I consider it unrealistic scenario for every day usage. Dumb BMS will make your cells die faster, simply because it's not adjustable enough.
can I do this with 7s 24v
Pick your 7S from this store, s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DB63A4B the 300 amp is hefty, $45 and solid as a rock in balancing and behavior. Can parallel 5 total on it. For a 24 volt constant 750 current max
I'll pray for her great video! Evil likes to hurt Good People!!!
the advertised BMS has no communication, you cannot see if a cell is damaged. Id rather use a smart BMS, so I can check it with my phone. This way you also see the total charged capacity and much more
If you want a smart BMS get one. If some country decides to connect to it and shut your battery off they can. A dumb BMS gives nobody but you the power and control. The department of defense has already said that all of these Bluetooth and Wi-Fi controlled items that people are buying can be controlled by China remotely.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 so you have 3 batteries with dumb bms's mounted in parallel, how do you know if one battery has problems? You have no display and no communication with the BMS.... thats a real problem.
@@vb9528 Same way you deal with a Lead Acid battery that may have a cell going bad in it. That's how we did things before people got retarded and depended on technology to replace their common sense.
Good on you dudes :)
🤙
Let us hoop your freezer is good enough to hold 24hours without supply ;-).
LOL!, Mine never has to worry about that. But I do reconversions for those who bought 48 volt stuff from those boutique level suppliers and sources.
This is for 4s batteries is there a solution for 8s 24v?
Not really, these cheap BMS are what is known as Starter battery style. They do a great job of not limiting you to how many 12 volt batteries you can stack in parallel but nothing in them allows over 20 volts.
So it won't allow you take 2 of the 12v batteries and run them in series?
@@justin6125 We have not tried it, but it also don't publish it as possible, just has it as for 12.8 v starter battery BMS.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I'd be curious because I'm running 24v applications to bring amperage down
@@justin6125 I just keep it all simple. So much stuff in 12 volt you can get anywhere. Worth a 25% wire increase on some things.