Have you seen Golden's updated recommendations? They are no longer recommending GAC 100, 200 or gloss medium as a layer under oil due to the potential for cracking. They did extensive testing in 2022, there's a video on youtube and an article in their magazine Just Paints.
@@frostfree7 I did see that. Thank you for sharing. They said as long as there is a sufficient oil content in the paint, the cracking does not occur. But I’m not sure how that applies to the oil primer, I.e., whether it has sufficient oil content. I might contact them to see if they have any suggestions or experiments with the oil primer. Regardless, I’ll be looking for other options as well for sealing panels. I know some people use shellac. Others forego sealing panels. I’m going to check with the people at Natural pigments too. They have a database or articles on sealing supports. Do you have suggestions?
Nice Video, I don't size with the GAC 100 for hardboard. With two coats and fully dried the product is very hard, the hardboard substrate and the ground do not react.
I have been or started to coat my wood panel with a mix of drywall mud and plaster , then I proved it with folded GaC 500 and gesso then acrylic painting on top. I want to make the move to doing oils over acrylics and o wonder how it will work to apply the plaster/drywall Mud mix to the panel again particularly if I do acrylic under painting?
@@JanineMKartist plaster is a very interesting use for a ground. I’ve seen it used for frescoes but am not familiar with how it would work for oils and acrylics. What made you choose plaster?
Gamblin's website did not show if the ground needs stirred as you did here...thank you for that & your visual demo of how oil ground is better for oil painting...I have an old 24 x 36 gesso primed stretched canvas to add the ground to so I can use oil paints & have them remain glossy. Do you think one coat of ground would be enough? Also will the ground help tighten the canvas? Already used steam on the back to tighten it & may also use wedges before the ground. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. The number of coats is a personal preference and depends on how thick you apply it and how much tooth you like in the canvas. Apply more coats and sand between if you like a smoother surface. It may tighten the canvas some but it depends on how loose it is. Wedges or keys will help you get it much tighter. Hope that helped. Anything else I can help with right now?
@@GalleryBry Thank you Bryan & yes, how can I tell if a canvas is so loose it needs re-stretched? Also Jackson Art says to wait until after I prime the canvas to use wedges as priming will cause the canvas to shrink, this already has gesso so is it better to use the ground oil primer before or after wedges? I would love if you could tell me a way you could see what I'm dealing with. Thank you
@@tonicamino6366 because it has a layer of gesso, less oil will reach the canvas so it should not shrink too much. You should be okay to stretch it to your desired level and then prime it. I’m not sure how much slack is in the canvas but if it is too loose and you stretch it after priming it may cause cracking.
If I may, how are these cans resealed? I assume you could probably do it like a paint can, but it would be awful to open one and find out the hard way that it is not possible.
Just depends on the type of board you have and the texture you want. I have two types of panels. One has a smooth white side. For this panel I sign the white side and prime the other. The other panels I have, the one side is way too rough for me. So I prime the smoother side. The side I prime is about as smooth as a panel from an art store. You can always lightly sand the ground to give it some tooth. Was that helpful?
You make a good point: it can potentially take more time and money. I choose to size the tempered hardboard for a few reason. It can help mitigate any potential warping in the future. Sizing all sides can help keep out moisture and protect the wood from environmental elements. It can also help mitigate any potential SID that could occur with tempered hardboard, since tempered hardboard is treated with oils and resins. This is just a personal choice. I primarily do this with works I plan to sell, and typically not with studies and sketches that I use for practice. :) Did that help at all? Thanks for your comment!!
Hmmm, I sized five or six panels a few months ago with Gamblin PVA SIZE, and then applied Gamblin Oil Ground on top of that once the size was dry. I had always sized canvases and linen, but never panels. I did NOT have a good result by doing that to the panels, unfortunately. The Oil Ground pealed off the the board when I applied oil paint to them when oil sketching on them, about 10 days later. It was a mess. Not sure exactly why that happened, but this is the only time I've had such a thing happen, and it happed on all six boards that were sized....all of them. The boards I used I also sanded before sizing. They were the masonite hard wood boards 1/4" thick from Home Depot. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing that. That’s good to know. I’m not entirely sure what the cause was. Perhaps the Pva size created too slick a surface. I haven’t had issues with GAC 100, so it must be the Pva size. Since making this video I have had a few people comment that it is best for canvas and not panels. My apologies for making a suggestion that didn’t work out well. I would have never thought the ground would peel off it. According to Gamblin sizing panels isn’t necessary so you can probably skip the size. I do it just to be extra certain the panels don’t disintegrate over the years, especially the sides. So it’s really just a precautionary step.
@@GalleryBry Yeah....your idea made sense. I looked at the sanded masonite, and thought...." well yeah, the oils are going to eat this up eventually." So I went with it. But yeah,...oh, the Gamblin Oil ground just peeled up. I even tried a board that I let sit for 25 days, and sure enough, it did the same thing. I've heard of the GAC 100, and quite a few painters like to use to protect boards. I'm 90% sure that there is another youtube artist that GAC 100's all of his boards... I always PVA Size my raw canvases and linens -- with no issue. I actually cannot understand why a PVA would do that on a board, and not on a linen. I suppose it soaks in more on a raw linen or canvas? Not sure. But yeah, thanks for the good video.. I'm putting Oil primer on via a palette knife as you suggested, and it seems to work very well.. Thank you.
How long was the PVA left to dry. Mastering Oil Painting site suggested to leave at least a week, before oil priming, to ensure the water in the glue has completely evaporated, to avoid this separation happening.
@@barbaraobrai381 You make an interesting point, Barbara. I didn't think about that. I'm trying to remember how long it was after putting down the Gamblin PVA glue, that I then went over it with Gamblin Oil Primer. My best recollection is that it was anywhere from 6-8 hours,....to maybe overnight with a few of the boards. I know that the boards were at least dry to the touch....but a week waiting period...NO...like I say, it was several hours at the least to over night at the most. Interesting point. It's got me thinking.
From the official description of the ground: "Please remember that any absorbent substrate such as canvas or paper should be sized before the application of Gamblin Oil Painting Ground. This will seal the surface so that the oil does not leech into it or cause it to rot. You can use acrylic size, rabbit skin glue, or acrylic primer for this purpose; Gamblin recommend you use the Gamblin PVA size." So literally almost everything in this video is just wrong.
Great tip Brian. I’ve been thinking of getting into oil primed surfaces and wondered about this. If you were priming linen or canvas of some kind would you use the same process?
Yep!! Same process. With fiber supports a sizing like GAC 100 is always needed to keep the oil from rotting the fibers. Oil primed surfaces are a delight to paint on. They make it very easy to erase and correct underpaintings.
@@ArtistaRuchi great video idea!! The quick answer is it lets your work out all the problems with a minimal paint layer that is easy to correct and erase, kinda like drawing in pencil. Then when you have an accurate drawing, you can cover it with bold, confident brush strokes. But I’ll work on a video for that.
Explained in simple terms; encouraging and supportive. Thanks
@@ManiMani-ss8lx You’re quite welcome. :) Hope you are having a great day!!
Great tips! I also use oil gesso to cover old oil paintings I don't like so much so I can re-use the panel or canvas.
Nice and simple to understand, thank you.
Quite welcome!! Any other videos you’d like to see created?
Thank you!! Great video.
Thanks so much‼️ :) Hope you are having a great day!!
Have you seen Golden's updated recommendations? They are no longer recommending GAC 100, 200 or gloss medium as a layer under oil due to the potential for cracking. They did extensive testing in 2022, there's a video on youtube and an article in their magazine Just Paints.
@@frostfree7 I did see that. Thank you for sharing. They said as long as there is a sufficient oil content in the paint, the cracking does not occur. But I’m not sure how that applies to the oil primer, I.e., whether it has sufficient oil content. I might contact them to see if they have any suggestions or experiments with the oil primer. Regardless, I’ll be looking for other options as well for sealing panels. I know some people use shellac. Others forego sealing panels. I’m going to check with the people at Natural pigments too. They have a database or articles on sealing supports. Do you have suggestions?
@@GalleryBry I would definitely contact Golden, I just saw that video yesterday myself and came away with a lot of questions!
Nice Video, I don't size with the GAC 100 for hardboard. With two coats and fully dried the product is very hard, the hardboard substrate and the ground do not react.
Thanks for sharing!! Good to know. :)
Good tip and nice video!!
Thanks so much‼️ :) Hope you are having a great day!!
Learn how to clean brushes with just oil and no harmful solvents here 👉🏻 ua-cam.com/video/2gMDf1Bwo9o/v-deo.html
I have been or started to coat my wood panel with a mix of drywall mud and plaster , then I proved it with folded GaC 500 and gesso then acrylic painting on top. I want to make the move to doing oils over acrylics and o wonder how it will work to apply the plaster/drywall
Mud mix to the panel again particularly if I do acrylic under painting?
@@JanineMKartist plaster is a very interesting use for a ground. I’ve seen it used for frescoes but am not familiar with how it would work for oils and acrylics. What made you choose plaster?
@@GalleryBry just to try something different . I mixed player with drywall mud. I tend to get mixed up with gac 500 and 100
Gamblin's website did not show if the ground needs stirred as you did here...thank you for that & your visual demo of how oil ground is better for oil painting...I have an old 24 x 36 gesso primed stretched canvas to add the ground to so I can use oil paints & have them remain glossy. Do you think one coat of ground would be enough? Also will the ground help tighten the canvas? Already used steam on the back to tighten it & may also use wedges before the ground. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. The number of coats is a personal preference and depends on how thick you apply it and how much tooth you like in the canvas. Apply more coats and sand between if you like a smoother surface. It may tighten the canvas some but it depends on how loose it is. Wedges or keys will help you get it much tighter. Hope that helped. Anything else I can help with right now?
@@GalleryBry Thank you Bryan & yes, how can I tell if a canvas is so loose it needs re-stretched? Also Jackson Art says to wait until after I prime the canvas to use wedges as priming will cause the canvas to shrink, this already has gesso so is it better to use the ground oil primer before or after wedges? I would love if you could tell me a way you could see what I'm dealing with. Thank you
@@tonicamino6366 because it has a layer of gesso, less oil will reach the canvas so it should not shrink too much. You should be okay to stretch it to your desired level and then prime it. I’m not sure how much slack is in the canvas but if it is too loose and you stretch it after priming it may cause cracking.
@@tonicamino6366 you can always send me photos on instagram. Gallery.Bry
Can I Size my Canvas with PVA first before applying the ground? Is PVA okay on Canvas?
You can use PVA size on canvas. I haven’t used it personally, but I know people use it as a size and then apply the ground. Hope that helps. :)
If I may, how are these cans resealed? I assume you could probably do it like a paint can, but it would be awful to open one and find out the hard way that it is not possible.
I use a hammer, just like a paint can.
Hi. Thanks for the tips. Can you use polymer and then acrylic gesso under oil painting?
You can use acrylic under oils but not oils under acrylic.
❤❤❤
Thanks so much‼️ :)
Should I apply it to the rough side or the smooth side of the board?
Just depends on the type of board you have and the texture you want. I have two types of panels. One has a smooth white side. For this panel I sign the white side and prime the other. The other panels I have, the one side is way too rough for me. So I prime the smoother side. The side I prime is about as smooth as a panel from an art store. You can always lightly sand the ground to give it some tooth. Was that helpful?
If I do not have to size, then I don't. Why spend the extra time and cost?
You make a good point: it can potentially take more time and money. I choose to size the tempered hardboard for a few reason. It can help mitigate any potential warping in the future. Sizing all sides can help keep out moisture and protect the wood from environmental elements. It can also help mitigate any potential SID that could occur with tempered hardboard, since tempered hardboard is treated with oils and resins. This is just a personal choice. I primarily do this with works I plan to sell, and typically not with studies and sketches that I use for practice. :) Did that help at all? Thanks for your comment!!
Hmmm, I sized five or six panels a few months ago with Gamblin PVA SIZE, and then applied Gamblin Oil Ground on top of that once the size was dry. I had always sized canvases and linen, but never panels. I did NOT have a good result by doing that to the panels, unfortunately. The Oil Ground pealed off the the board when I applied oil paint to them when oil sketching on them, about 10 days later. It was a mess. Not sure exactly why that happened, but this is the only time I've had such a thing happen, and it happed on all six boards that were sized....all of them. The boards I used I also sanded before sizing. They were the masonite hard wood boards 1/4" thick from Home Depot. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing that. That’s good to know. I’m not entirely sure what the cause was. Perhaps the Pva size created too slick a surface. I haven’t had issues with GAC 100, so it must be the Pva size. Since making this video I have had a few people comment that it is best for canvas and not panels. My apologies for making a suggestion that didn’t work out well. I would have never thought the ground would peel off it. According to Gamblin sizing panels isn’t necessary so you can probably skip the size. I do it just to be extra certain the panels don’t disintegrate over the years, especially the sides. So it’s really just a precautionary step.
@@GalleryBry Yeah....your idea made sense. I looked at the sanded masonite, and thought...." well yeah, the oils are going to eat this up eventually." So I went with it. But yeah,...oh, the Gamblin Oil ground just peeled up. I even tried a board that I let sit for 25 days, and sure enough, it did the same thing. I've heard of the GAC 100, and quite a few painters like to use to protect boards. I'm 90% sure that there is another youtube artist that GAC 100's all of his boards... I always PVA Size my raw canvases and linens -- with no issue. I actually cannot understand why a PVA would do that on a board, and not on a linen. I suppose it soaks in more on a raw linen or canvas? Not sure. But yeah, thanks for the good video.. I'm putting Oil primer on via a palette knife as you suggested, and it seems to work very well.. Thank you.
@@westfieldartworks8188 sounds like you are doing all the right things. Happy painting!!
How long was the PVA left to dry. Mastering Oil Painting site suggested to leave at least a week, before oil priming, to ensure the water in the glue has completely evaporated, to avoid this separation happening.
@@barbaraobrai381 You make an interesting point, Barbara. I didn't think about that. I'm trying to remember how long it was after putting down the Gamblin PVA glue, that I then went over it with Gamblin Oil Primer. My best recollection is that it was anywhere from 6-8 hours,....to maybe overnight with a few of the boards. I know that the boards were at least dry to the touch....but a week waiting period...NO...like I say, it was several hours at the least to over night at the most. Interesting point. It's got me thinking.
From the official description of the ground: "Please remember that any absorbent substrate such as canvas or paper should be sized before the application of Gamblin Oil Painting Ground. This will seal the surface so that the oil does not leech into it or cause it to rot. You can use acrylic size, rabbit skin glue, or acrylic primer for this purpose; Gamblin recommend you use the Gamblin PVA size." So literally almost everything in this video is just wrong.
Thanks for that feedback! I really appreciate it. I will take your comments into consideration. Hope you are having a great day.
Great tip Brian. I’ve been thinking of getting into oil primed surfaces and wondered about this. If you were priming linen or canvas of some kind would you use the same process?
Yep!! Same process. With fiber supports a sizing like GAC 100 is always needed to keep the oil from rotting the fibers. Oil primed surfaces are a delight to paint on. They make it very easy to erase and correct underpaintings.
@@GalleryBry awesome. Thanks!
@@DannySabraArt You’re quite welcome. :)
Great sharing✌️keep it up nice✌️✌️
Thanks so much‼️ :) Hope you are having a great day!!
Thank you 🙏🏻
You’re quite welcome. :) Hope you are having a great day!!
Thank you for sharing this video…. It is really useful 👌👌👍👍
Quite welcome!!! Have any other topics you’d like to see discussed in videos?
@@GalleryBry yeah!!! Would like to know why under painting is required & see through your demo how it helps
@@ArtistaRuchi great video idea!! The quick answer is it lets your work out all the problems with a minimal paint layer that is easy to correct and erase, kinda like drawing in pencil. Then when you have an accurate drawing, you can cover it with bold, confident brush strokes. But I’ll work on a video for that.
@@GalleryBry thank you so much for sharing this
@@ArtistaRuchi You’re quite welcome. :)
Thank you boo!
You’re quite welcome. :) Hope you are having a great day!!