Hopefully this was a help for you all!!! If so, feel free to buy me some coffee and help support more videos like this: geni.us/buymecoffee Also, be sure to check out all our favorite A7III Gear: geni.us/A7IIIgear Thank you so much for all your support!
Hi like many i feel your video for first timers joining Sony more than ever - i wanted to thank you like many but dont you feel its time to correct the error people are mentioning in the comments months now? You talk nearly 2 minutes about the 10fps which CAN be done un uncompressed RAW. Keep uploading !
Just ordered my first Sony (a7iii) after 23 years with Canon gear (which I'm in the process of selling). This video was extremely helpful and I very much appreciate you putting it together! THANK YOU!
This video is extremely helpful. His PDF settings guide is awesome as well - Far better than the Sony Manual! 1) 1:11 - Electronic Front Curtain Shutter (Pros & Cons) 2) 7:51 - Silent Shooting 3) 10:23 - Eye AutoFocus 4) 13:28 - Compressed vs Uncompressed Raw 5) 16:26 - Live View Display Settings Effects
Hi Dan, you do not need to have your af area set to wide for eye-af to capture anywhere on the frame where focus points are. it will search for it no matter what focus area you are in, so to all that want to use different focus areas but want to use eye af as well do not worry.
Actually, it could matter but in a positive way, well if you know it. If you have multiple faces on the frame and you put the flexible spot on one specific face, the eye AF will track an eye from that face. Once locked, you can recompose and move the camera and the AF it will not consider the flexible spot position until you restart tracking.
I just bought the A7r iii - so slightly different at times - but I watched this anyway.... it REALLY helped me! - Thanks so much. Despite watching hours of other tutorials and other channels with in depth stuff, you managed to hit on a whole bunch of new things I simply didn't know! Thanks again.
Killer man. I'm in the trap of watching videos on all kinds of gear I "need" when i don't even fully know I gear I got. Thanks for helping me learn the a7iii better
I have an A73 and I appreciate when someone takes the time to put up a video. I have many videos up myself but this could have been half the time without losing any content. I couldn't finish it.
I just got my a73 and I noticed it shakes inside when I turn it on AND when I turn a knob it sometimes does it. I am new to camera's and was wondering if you know why when I record everything looks great until I put the file in my computer and then it is all jittery! Im at 24fps and my shutter at 1/50, so im guessing that part is correct so should I be having that crazy stuttering of the video ? I also need a very deep tutorial of how to set my camera for film production, would you know of anyone online that can walk me through in depth...I have to shoot a short film in 2 weeks and I need to have my setting for day and night, and 4k and 1080p
Man, I’ve been doing loads of research on this camera and your videos have helped me so much. You’re so well-composed and your talking points always flow very well, very easy to follow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
There's a little mistake on this video: with the a7III we can actually shoot uncompressed RAW at 10fps. Only on the a9 and the a7RIII the fps rate falls when using uncompressed RAW.
are you sure ? I am considering buying this camera next week ? Also can you please tell me what's the frame rate when you turn 'E curtain : OFF' ? PS: I am new to sony
I just decided to bite the bullet and order an A7III. I basically just got into photography and videography and my first camera was a used (like new) a6500 that I got through Amazon. I was happy with the results I got with it but seeing all of the A7III-related videos and discussions recently finally pushed me over the edge and I decided that I'd return my a6500 and both of the prime lenses I had for it in order to be able to pick up the A7III. It sucks that it's probably going to take at least a few weeks for me to actually receive it since the demand has been so high but I think that being without a camera for a little while will all be made worth it when that beautiful box arrives. Thank you so much in advance for the great A7III content. I am certain that I will be back here once I finally have it.
I just did this 3 weeks ago too. I'm in the same boat. Bit the bullet, first time doing photography, but I do have some experience with video editing and graphic stuff.
Tons of useful info squeezed in here without it getting too wordy, nicely done. Thanks for covering the live view settings effect on/off. One of my concerns about switching was knowing what it would be like shooting flash with the evf. Cheers Dan
I shoot mainly in silent mode and came across the flickering issue under led lighting. However, in non silent mode you have anti flickering mode. When turned on even with e-front curtain the banding is gone. I tested this, so you dont need to turn it off. However in silent mode when your turn shutter speed around 1/125 or lower you don’t really get banding anymore.
EXCELLENT discussion. I've watched other videos that give the same general information though clearly lack the technical background for a full explanation. You, on ther other hand, have an excellent technical/mechanical understanding of cameras and are therefore able to eloquently and very effectively convey all the necessary information! Thank you.
This is great and greatly appreciated but I just have to point out that, in contrast to what was stated in the video, shutter shake is LESS relevant (not more relevant) for long exposures, wherein any shake occurs during a much smaller fraction of the total exposure (and also, very little if any light is actually entering the camera and exposing the sensor during the split second of the shake).
You are among the best reviewers, ever! I noticed banding in your video early on, around 40 seconds plus or minus? The video clip showing the camera (product shot) on a white background. I had this camera on preorder, but the banding question (my biggest concern is stills) made me hesitate and wait until I learn more about the camera. Your review helps me understand the issue a bit more. One reviewer suggested regular old incandescent bulbs introduced it, but otherwise it seems to be an issue with LED. I’ve noticed banding at high iso and low light will all my cameras, including Nikon with my Hue bulbs - so maybe it’s not unique to Sony at all? Thank you for your awesome review.
Thanks for explaining the pros and cons pf e-shutter curtain. I turned it off after a video I saw of the Fro but I wasn’t taking into account the cons you explain here and the cons outweight the pros in my case
Hey there! Another big disadvantage of shooting compressed RAW is the fact that in order to work on them on a computer, your editing software first needs to uncompress them. This means that they need more processing power, which can lead to a slower workflow, which is especially important if you're working on a lot of photos. Thanks for this video though, great information! Cheers
I've a 2017 iMac, midrange specs but with 512 SSD, and I could see the difference between uncompressed and compressed when editing, no question. Really good point, and one which has pushed me to uncompressed for all my shooting.
Your talk about e-front curtain shutter has left me baffled. When you start to talk about how some lights affect that setting, then sum it up, you seem to be saying the opposite of what you originally said about it. Turn it off for less vibration issues, or on? Turn it off for sharper images, or on? Thanks!!
Very useful video, thanks!! I would add a note on the uncompressed and compressed RAW options regarding the speed at which your computer runs when handling them. ThePhotonauts makes this point, and compressed files demand more resources to edit, and I found them a touch clunky in comparision.
Great setup review man!!! The last tip helped me so much! I just got my camera, and the Live View on / off feature saved me a lot of trouble on my next photoshoot in studio!
Your explanations are GREAT...However, I find it more helpful to summarize the "when you should use/not use front curtain shut" then why. (I have shortish attention span)
Dear sir. I am shawn and a little confuse what u said. Forgive I said cause at beginning u r talking about the e-front curtain then suddenly switch to silent mode. But I am still happy to watch ur video. Also thank you for share this video with us. Would do another. Idea only talk about the e-front curtain only otherwise we r confuse again. Thank you
I have an A7m3, love it... but... one of my purchasing hooks was its touchscreen. I love my Olympus OMD, where I can touch the screen at the point, where I want to focus, and the camera focuses AND THEN fires immediately. This is a very iportant thing. The Sony A7m3 cannot do this. It focuses where I tap, but after that I have to push the fire button, and this takes time. A moving subject can step out from focus. This is very disapponting.
Hi there , With using Godox v860 ii. There's always 1 sec shutter while using Fill Flash and Slow Sync Flash mode and only works fine using Rear options=.
Nice video, thanks. One update on Eye AF - the focus area does not need to be set to Wide for Eye AF to work. Best setup is to have Face Detect & Face Detect Frame Display ON so you can see that a face is detected. When you press the button you have assigned to Eye AF it will lock on to the eye of the detected face (or the face itself if it can’t detect the eye) even of the AF is set to, say, Flexible Spot. This is for photos of course, video AF works differently.
Femy it’s in the camera manual, you’ll find a link to the online version in the PlayMemories app on your phone if you’ve connected the camera to the phone. helpguide.sony.net/ilc/1720/v1/en/contents/TP0001117026.html?search=Face%20registration
Great video with lots of good information. If you shoot in AF-S mode on the A7RIII and A7III the Eye AF is automatic with no need to push a button or even map the feature to a button.
One more thing worth mentioning about uncompressed vs compressed raw what i've noticed. The compressed raw is way more CPU intensive when editing on a weaker machine, but uncompressed raw needs more IO speed. So if you are using a weaker machine with fast storage (like me for example, the 12" macbook) its easier to use uncompressed raws. But for example with a macbook pro but a slower external HDD, i'd probably prefer editing compressed raws.
Thank you so much Dan for the informative and helpful review, I always learn from your videos, I've heard that in f stops smaller than f/11 A7III has issue in AF-C mode (shooting images), I would like to ask if you faced with such an issue? I might go to purchase this camera but before I wanted to ask you if such an issue exists or not? God bless and good luck!
Hey! So there is a potential issue. I believe the problem is that the camera uses 2 different technologies for autofocus, phase detection and contrast detection. Phase detection which is the best technology for tracking moving subjects does not work with apertures smaller than F/11 although contrast detection does work. Contrast detection needs a decent amount of contrast between the subject and the background in order to work effectively and overexposed backgrounds (bright sky/sun) can be a struggle for that technology. It's not something I would worry about though. The camera will still focus up to F/22 on most lenses and the A7III isn't the only camera that has this kind of limitation...in fact some cameras like the Panasonic S5 ONLY use contrast detection and don't even have the phase detection option. Hope that helps!
@@learningcameras Hi Dan, Thank you so very much for taking your valuable time to reply me in detail, Your answer was very helpful and informative for me and now, clearly I understand what's going on behind the focus mechanism in A7III and others. Stay always healthy and happy! Good luck Dan!
With or without a mirror, shakes will always occur if the shot is taken by hands: for almost shake-free photography, a tripod and a remote shutter-release are mandatory.
This was a very informative video. I just bought the Sony atr iii. It should arrive tomorrow Tuesday. I will probably need one on that or gain a lot from this one if/when the options are the same.
You're the first person to say that the electronic shutter off is the best way to go. From my understanding if you have it off and you use the actual shutter, you will get better bokeh. What do you think about that?
E shutter off is absolutely the way to go unless you have an A1. Electronic shutter is basically an electronic scan of the sensor and its not instantaneous so you can get rolling shutter, banding, and I have heard about aperture issues when using super fast shutter speeds
@@learningcameras I guess I misunderstood then? So you're saying E shutter off is the way to go and not ''E shutter ON, unless you're in doors with unreliable lighting''?
@@fufu1405 E shutter off is the way to go. The only exception where E shutter is OK is outdoors (indoor lighting can be an issue) with slow movement (landscapes, products...static portraits) and even then you could see some differences with depth of field/aperture in E shutter when also shooting very fast shutter speeds
@@learningcameras Thank you, is there any downside to leaving the E shutter off then? Why would Sony have it ON by default if it's so much better to have it off?
Five relatively complex operational features described and explained clearly by Dan, with the addition of practical ways to understand and work with them. Thank you Dan!
Do you have any concerns regarding the shutter mechanical issues that people have been reporting on the Sony A7iii? I am on the fence about switching from a Nikon to the Sony.
One of the very best videos I have seen on the Sony Mirrorless cameras! I just subscribed! Do You by chance have any videos on the Sony A7R2? I own one of those and just feel that I'm not getting the full use of the cameras features. But again excellent video!
Very good advice. Unfortunately, I didn't know about "Setting Effect" for years, and only figured it out last year. I was taking flash photography but had trouble seeing the underexposed live view. So that is super-useful for flash photography.
Rationalific just want to clarify, so when I am using ttl( as I heard TTL mode tend to overexpose a bit), inorder to get a balanced exposure, I need to turn the setting effect off , so that I can underexpose and expect ttl to take care of the scenario? Thanks
+Femy: Good question. I was referring to using flash without TTL. Without TTL, if the setting effect is on, then the screen will be nearly black, because the flash is not communicating with it, and the screen is not expecting the flash. So in that case, without TTL, turning the setting effect off makes it like a regular DSLR, so you'll see a brighter image (in dark situations when you are purposefully underexposing in order to add your own light). If you use a TTL flash (or a flash in TTL setting), the screen with setting effect on should automatically brighten and show (generally, if imperfectly) what the final image should look like with the added light from the flash. I believe (though I'm not sure) that you can turn the setting effect off with a TTL flash, and it should still work...but you won't see an accurate preview in that case. Again, it will be like looking through an optical viewfinder. It will not show the final exposure of the image the way it will be taken. So in that case, I'd just recommend keeping setting effect on with TTL, as you'll get a better preview. So setting effect only deals with what you see in your viewfinder BEFORE you take the photo. If setting effect is on, the image before you take the photo will look like the photo that you take. If setting effect is off, the image before you take the photo will NOT change based on your exposure, as with an optical viewfinder. Again, the only exception is with a non-TTL flash, as with settings effect on, the light from the TTL flash will NOT be taken into consideration. (With a TTL flash, that light WILL be taken into consideration if setting effect is on.) To the main point of your question, if TTL mode overexposes a bit, then my suggestion would be to turn the "flash compensation" down. It should be right in the "Function" menu by default. If you turn the "flash compensation" down, say, 2/3 EV, then the flash will be 2/3 of a stop dimmer every time you take a flash photo, no matter its reading (just as decreasing a camera's exposure value by 2/3 of a stop would make the entire image 2/3 of a stop dimmer). Let me know if you need me to clarify anything else.
Hi Dan, I checked out your Kit links, but don't see that mini tripod listed, please tell me what it is if you can, I'd appreciate that. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for making it.
Hi Dan, What do you think is a best buy today, the A7iii or A7Riii? The price difference has decreased to $500. The EVF quality is noticeable between the 2 cameras? Thanks
So you can notice the EVF quality difference side by side but I don't think if you picked up an A7III, you would be disappointed. That said the RIII has a little better weather sealing, better screen, and is probably a slightly better option if you are shooting mostly pictures
Wow Dan, i have an A9 for a while now but did learn a lot from this video! Am now in doubt between the A7 iii and A7r iii for my second camera. What would you do? Buy the a7 and 24-105 or go for A7r? Thanks for the effort.
Hi Dan. I just got my A7iii with 24-105 and I'm trying to find my way around coming from Nikon. Your video and detailed explanation really helped me find some key settings that I immediately applied. Just subscribed and will continue watch more of your videos.
Some of the comments might not be completely accurate. Especially around live effects and eye AF. The live effects I've noticed I do not need to switch it off on previous models such as A77ii I'm using and I have noticed with others on youtube with models such as A7Rii etc. If I underexpose purposely, the moment I switch my transmitter on if I'm using off camera flash, then the live view automatically adjust so I can see the picture. Or if transmitter is already on then the live effects are automatically disabled as well. The same with Eye AF. I do not need to change the focus areas or set it to continues focus. I usually shoot with spot focus and single shot AF and simply set the Eye AF button wherever I want it and as soon as I press the button it automatically searches the entire screen and continuously focuses for as long as I hold the button down. Maybe its changed in the mkiii models and A9, but I highly doubt it.
That's not banding, just flicker from lights in the floor (cheap under the floor lights on a Vegas casino). No camera unless it has a global shutter will get rid of that. Cameras like the GH5 allow you to pick exact shutter speeds so you can match the flicker so it doesn't look as bad but almost every camera shooting video can show flicker
So basically Sony try to look better on paper 10fps look sweet till you find all downsides :( Dan how fast camera can shoot with full mechanical shutter and 14bit raw files?
Other manufactures do this too. They quote 2 FPS numbers, one with limitations such as mirror lockup, no AF, or no metering, and another with everything on full. Sony quotes 8fps in full uncompressed 14 bit RAW although that is with the electronic 1st curtain (no quote with the E curtain off). My guess is it would drop to about 6-7fps with the electronic 1st curtain off which is about what the competition can do. Again, it's no worse than a DSLR even in that mode as a DSLR moves the mirror 2x and shutter 2x where a mirrorless camera just moves the shutter 4x. But remember, having an electronic 1st curtain has big advantages over a dslr such as reduced vibration for more detail and less blackout so it's not like Sony only includes it to look better on paper with the faster framerates. The only downside of banding is super rare.
Dan, I checked out your link 'All our favorite A7III Gear' and it helped a lot! Just getting into photography and cinematography. Yes, both are of great interest to me. And I was looking at all-round lense which I can use for both. Evaluate. See what I like to do with camera in general before I start buying more glass. I discovered this - 'Sony Sonnar T* FE 55mm F/1.8 ZA'. Exactly what I need to start this great hobby. It's light, small. Natural fit for mirrorless cameras and yet solid, good quality. Not too expensive. I started having head spin after watching so many glass reviews and you pointed me into the right direction and for that I thank you! love your work.
Getting banding from the electronic first curtain seems very rare - my guess is only with very bright flickery LED lights with very specific shutter speeds. I've never seen in shooting A7 cameras for 5 years now. Good information about the lossy 12 bit raw when in compressed and continuous shooting (not continuous AF). I wasn't aware of that and I agree that it would be nice to have a setting to prevent the auto-switch to 12 bit raw. I wonder if it does this when bracketing at well since it is similar to continuous?
The e front curtain has a problem with high speed sync flash. It causes some photos more or less illuminated by the flash in the same conditions and settings
I got bending (lines) on my picture the other day using silent mode, the interesting part is, it happened in a same place (light) that I did shoot a month ago in silent mode and did not got any bending (lines). I turn off the silent mode and the lines were gone...
at the very end you made it very confusing talking about the live display effect. you kept saying turn it off and then you said so you want this on, and then said off again, but never actually showed it turned off. so which is it that is better when not using flash? on or off
I am very new to camera's and I am buying this one for movie production, including some mild run and gun style. Do you have any video's to get me set up quickly so I can shoot right away without worrying about all these settings. I have used the Nikon 3200 when I worked for a tv station and shot commercials but I hardly messed with all the settings. mainly just used ISO to adjust the light quickly in the room. Before I buy this I would like to take an in depth tutorial of the camera as well, online classes would be great, but for filmmaking mainly. Any suggestions?
I just got my a73 and I noticed it shakes inside when I turn it on AND when I turn a knob it sometimes does it. I am new to camera's and was wondering if you know why when I record everything looks great until I put the file in my computer and then it is all jittery! Im at 24fps and my shutter at 1/50, so im guessing that part is correct so should I be having that crazy stuttering of the video ? I also need a very deep tutorial of how to set my camera for film production, would you know of anyone online that can walk me through in depth...I have to shoot a short film in 2 weeks and I need to have my setting for day and night, and 4k and 1080p
Fyi, the Canon M50 also has eye autofocus, and it works pretty well. I have both that and the Sony a7III, and the canon just seems to have a smaller area it will track the eyes. The Sony is still better at it from my experience, but more are getting it.
I'm not a photographer but I really wanna get a nice camera for personal use, I've watched some reviews about this camera and I'm starting to like it. is it a good choice for someone like me whom doesn't know much about camera
Great Video Dan , Thank you so much for the info . and can u suggest me how to balance ( Calibrate ) both view finder nd monitor color temp . Have anyone faced the Color issues ?
Hey Brother, love your videos! I actually need your expert opinion. I was looking for a versatile lens as I don't like changing lens too much. However, I do a little food vlogging, Travelling and Food photography and videography. Which lens would you suggest me? (Using A7iii)
Appreciate that! My first lens would be the Tamron 28-75 F2.8: bhpho.to/2klEbf5 It's a solid all around lens that is light/portable with a wide aperture and the most common focal lengths covered. After that I would look at what focal lengths you use the most and maybe pick up.a prime lens
Hopefully this was a help for you all!!! If so, feel free to buy me some coffee and help support more videos like this: geni.us/buymecoffee
Also, be sure to check out all our favorite A7III Gear: geni.us/A7IIIgear
Thank you so much for all your support!
Logorroic waste of time......
Would be nice with an example picture for each item
it was! tnx!
Hi like many i feel your video for first timers joining Sony more than ever - i wanted to thank you like many but dont you feel its time to correct the error people are mentioning in the comments months now? You talk nearly 2 minutes about the 10fps which CAN be done un uncompressed RAW.
Keep uploading !
Just ordered my first Sony (a7iii) after 23 years with Canon gear (which I'm in the process of selling). This video was extremely helpful and I very much appreciate you putting it together! THANK YOU!
This video is extremely helpful. His PDF settings guide is awesome as well - Far better than the Sony Manual!
1) 1:11 - Electronic Front Curtain Shutter (Pros & Cons)
2) 7:51 - Silent Shooting
3) 10:23 - Eye AutoFocus
4) 13:28 - Compressed vs Uncompressed Raw
5) 16:26 - Live View Display Settings Effects
Really appreciate that Gage!!!
I've been shooting the A7III for a year and still learned a lot from this video. Thanks for takin the time!
Hi Dan, you do not need to have your af area set to wide for eye-af to capture anywhere on the frame where focus points are. it will search for it no matter what focus area you are in, so to all that want to use different focus areas but want to use eye af as well
do not worry.
Actually, it could matter but in a positive way, well if you know it. If you have multiple faces on the frame and you put the flexible spot on one specific face, the eye AF will track an eye from that face. Once locked, you can recompose and move the camera and the AF it will not consider the flexible spot position until you restart tracking.
I just bought the A7r iii - so slightly different at times - but I watched this anyway.... it REALLY helped me! - Thanks so much. Despite watching hours of other tutorials and other channels with in depth stuff, you managed to hit on a whole bunch of new things I simply didn't know! Thanks again.
So awesome!!! Glad it was able to help
just got the sony a7iii and i am on the journey of learning, thanks for the tips to start
Just in the process of moving from Olympus to A7iii for sports shooting. Great video Dan. Helped me a lot. 👍
Awesome! Thanks so much...enjoy the A7III!
From a Pro's perspective your last point on flash was the most important topic, good to see someone address this.
OH, thank you for the front curtain shutter explanation! Finally, I got it...
Fantastic: you know this guy is the real deal because he blows thru highly technical explanations with no script
Killer man. I'm in the trap of watching videos on all kinds of gear I "need" when i don't even fully know I gear I got. Thanks for helping me learn the a7iii better
Awesome!!! So glad this helped
I have an A73 and I appreciate when someone takes the time to put up a video. I have many videos up myself but this could have been half the time without losing any content. I couldn't finish it.
I see you putting those Crane 2 tripod feet to use! :P
Hahaha, yep! Good eye
I just got my a73 and I noticed it shakes inside when I turn it on AND when I turn a knob it sometimes does it. I am new to camera's and was wondering if you know why when I record everything looks great until I put the file in my computer and then it is all jittery! Im at 24fps and my shutter at 1/50, so im guessing that part is correct so should I be having that crazy stuttering of the video ?
I also need a very deep tutorial of how to set my camera for film production, would you know of anyone online that can walk me through in depth...I have to shoot a short film in 2 weeks and I need to have my setting for day and night, and 4k and 1080p
I can perhaps answer the first part. The shake inside may be the image stabilizer waking up.
I like how simple and clear you explain things... I always like to watch your videos because they are really informative...
Means a lot Carlos!
Man, I’ve been doing loads of research on this camera and your videos have helped me so much. You’re so well-composed and your talking points always flow very well, very easy to follow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you so much! Glad it was helpful. Enjoy your camera!
There's a little mistake on this video: with the a7III we can actually shoot uncompressed RAW at 10fps. Only on the a9 and the a7RIII the fps rate falls when using uncompressed RAW.
Davi Siqueira Silva I will test this when I get home! Thank you for sharing!
are you sure ? I am considering buying this camera next week ? Also can you please tell me what's the frame rate when you turn 'E curtain : OFF' ? PS: I am new to sony
its 8fps uncompressed (a7riii not a7iii)
A7iii here and can confirm: if i put it on uncompressed mode and Hi+ continuous, it's hitting 10fps.
Davi Siqueira Silva Yes this is true, I actually tested it on mine
I just decided to bite the bullet and order an A7III. I basically just got into photography and videography and my first camera was a used (like new) a6500 that I got through Amazon. I was happy with the results I got with it but seeing all of the A7III-related videos and discussions recently finally pushed me over the edge and I decided that I'd return my a6500 and both of the prime lenses I had for it in order to be able to pick up the A7III. It sucks that it's probably going to take at least a few weeks for me to actually receive it since the demand has been so high but I think that being without a camera for a little while will all be made worth it when that beautiful box arrives.
Thank you so much in advance for the great A7III content. I am certain that I will be back here once I finally have it.
I just did this 3 weeks ago too. I'm in the same boat. Bit the bullet, first time doing photography, but I do have some experience with video editing and graphic stuff.
@@blackbox5992 same with me I just got mine today. Any updates???
you tell us
?@@Tonymalon
Keep Being Our Hero brother ! God Bless You
Means so much!
Thank you so much for clearing up the bit rate issue with continuous shooting. I had conflicting info about whether it was true or not.
Tons of useful info squeezed in here without it getting too wordy, nicely done. Thanks for covering the live view settings effect on/off. One of my concerns about switching was knowing what it would be like shooting flash with the evf. Cheers Dan
So stinking helpful! I have had mine one day and I am completely overwhelmed but this really helps with some stuff. Thank you!
Awesome!!! So glad it helped
I shoot mainly in silent mode and came across the flickering issue under led lighting. However, in non silent mode you have anti flickering mode. When turned on even with e-front curtain the banding is gone. I tested this, so you dont need to turn it off. However in silent mode when your turn shutter speed around 1/125 or lower you don’t really get banding anymore.
EXCELLENT discussion. I've watched other videos that give the same general information though clearly lack the technical background for a full explanation. You, on ther other hand, have an excellent technical/mechanical understanding of cameras and are therefore able to eloquently and very effectively convey all the necessary information! Thank you.
Banding is a shutter issue, you can slow the shutter rate to prevent banding or shortcut it and go to Auto in these situations
02:43 - That speck of dust!!! Honestly though, thanks for the video, helps me with my buying decisions!
glad I was not the only one who noticed that
I thought my screen had a dead pixel :D
that was a boulder
Maybe his next video is "how to clean sensor" and because of that hes keeping that dust on there :D or maybe not :D
@@rifatmuzikband2974 I literally swiped my finger through the monitor LOL
This is great and greatly appreciated but I just have to point out that, in contrast to what was stated in the video, shutter shake is LESS relevant (not more relevant) for long exposures, wherein any shake occurs during a much smaller fraction of the total exposure (and also, very little if any light is actually entering the camera and exposing the sensor during the split second of the shake).
To clarify, clause in parentheses refers specifically to long exposures (which by nature are low light).
You are among the best reviewers, ever! I noticed banding in your video early on, around 40 seconds plus or minus? The video clip showing the camera (product shot) on a white background. I had this camera on preorder, but the banding question (my biggest concern is stills) made me hesitate and wait until I learn more about the camera. Your review helps me understand the issue a bit more. One reviewer suggested regular old incandescent bulbs introduced it, but otherwise it seems to be an issue with LED. I’ve noticed banding at high iso and low light will all my cameras, including Nikon with my Hue bulbs - so maybe it’s not unique to Sony at all? Thank you for your awesome review.
Thanks for explaining the pros and cons pf e-shutter curtain. I turned it off after a video I saw of the Fro but I wasn’t taking into account the cons you explain here and the cons outweight the pros in my case
Super helpful! First mirrorless camera, and it's been a trickier transition than I expected it would be. This clears up so much! Thank you!!
Awesome!!! So glad it helped a bit. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions Sharon
Hey there! Another big disadvantage of shooting compressed RAW is the fact that in order to work on them on a computer, your editing software first needs to uncompress them. This means that they need more processing power, which can lead to a slower workflow, which is especially important if you're working on a lot of photos.
Thanks for this video though, great information!
Cheers
I've a 2017 iMac, midrange specs but with 512 SSD, and I could see the difference between uncompressed and compressed when editing, no question. Really good point, and one which has pushed me to uncompressed for all my shooting.
This is by far the most helpful video I’ve seen on this camera. Thank you.
Thank you so much!
Did you ever do the full menu settings video?
Incredibly helpful, thank you so much. Been struggling with banding for months and finally found this vid
Great info to know. Sony should be paying you. Thanks for the video.
haha, glad to help. Would be awesome to get paid for these :)
Your talk about e-front curtain shutter has left me baffled. When you start to talk about how some lights affect that setting, then sum it up, you seem to be saying the opposite of what you originally said about it. Turn it off for less vibration issues, or on? Turn it off for sharper images, or on? Thanks!!
Very useful video, thanks!! I would add a note on the uncompressed and compressed RAW options regarding the speed at which your computer runs when handling them. ThePhotonauts makes this point, and compressed files demand more resources to edit, and I found them a touch clunky in comparision.
So you prefer uncompressed? i just bought mine so i'm a little confused....
Great setup review man!!! The last tip helped me so much! I just got my camera, and the Live View on / off feature saved me a lot of trouble on my next photoshoot in studio!
Great video! Thank you for sharing so much info. I cant wait to get mine and set these settings according to this info and my needs.
Very helpful, one of the best for A7iii info session! Thank you!
So glad it helped!!!
Your explanations are GREAT...However, I find it more helpful to summarize the "when you should use/not use front curtain shut" then why. (I have shortish attention span)
Dear sir.
I am shawn and a little confuse what u said. Forgive I said cause at beginning u r talking about the e-front curtain then suddenly switch to silent mode.
But I am still happy to watch ur video. Also thank you for share this video with us.
Would do another. Idea only talk about the e-front curtain only otherwise we r confuse again.
Thank you
You explained the complicated thing in a way very easy to understand. Thanks! Great work!
Awesome!!! Thanks, so glad it helped
I have an A7m3, love it... but... one of my purchasing hooks was its touchscreen. I love my Olympus OMD, where I can touch the screen at the point, where I want to focus, and the camera focuses AND THEN fires immediately. This is a very iportant thing. The Sony A7m3 cannot do this. It focuses where I tap, but after that I have to push the fire button, and this takes time. A moving subject can step out from focus. This is very disapponting.
Good information Dan. A lot of the info you went over, I had no idea how it worked.
Thank you so much. I am new to mirrorless. Turning the live view effect on and off was very helpful!
Awesome.. i was getting trouble finding this menu item in the maze
this is exactly what i'm looking for, word for word! great explanation. thank you so much!
Nice work man! Super engaging and helpful info. Did not feel like 20 minutes
Really appreciate the feedback Shaun!!!
Electronic first curtain shutter can also cause bad bokeh for big aperture combined with fast shutter speed (1/1000 or faster)
Man, thank you for bringing these issues up!
Hi there , With using Godox v860 ii. There's always 1 sec shutter while using Fill Flash and Slow Sync Flash mode and only works fine using Rear options=.
Nice video, thanks. One update on Eye AF - the focus area does not need to be set to Wide for Eye AF to work. Best setup is to have Face Detect & Face Detect Frame Display ON so you can see that a face is detected. When you press the button you have assigned to Eye AF it will lock on to the eye of the detected face (or the face itself if it can’t detect the eye) even of the AF is set to, say, Flexible Spot. This is for photos of course, video AF works differently.
How do you register, suppose in a wedding scenario, the face of bride and groom incase you take group shots? Thanks
Femy it’s in the camera manual, you’ll find a link to the online version in the PlayMemories app on your phone if you’ve connected the camera to the phone.
helpguide.sony.net/ilc/1720/v1/en/contents/TP0001117026.html?search=Face%20registration
Thanks Ken
Great video with lots of good information. If you shoot in AF-S mode on the A7RIII and A7III the Eye AF is automatic with no need to push a button or even map the feature to a button.
As far as I know you will not have banding using EFCS because it is just the first courtain, not the hole capture process is electronical.
Are there any pros to turning off silent shooting but keeping on the front curtain shutter, or is it the same as keeping both of them on?
One more thing worth mentioning about uncompressed vs compressed raw what i've noticed. The compressed raw is way more CPU intensive when editing on a weaker machine, but uncompressed raw needs more IO speed. So if you are using a weaker machine with fast storage (like me for example, the 12" macbook) its easier to use uncompressed raws. But for example with a macbook pro but a slower external HDD, i'd probably prefer editing compressed raws.
Thank you so much Dan for the informative and helpful review, I always learn from your videos, I've heard that in f stops smaller than f/11 A7III has issue in AF-C mode (shooting images), I would like to ask if you faced with such an issue? I might go to purchase this camera but before I wanted to ask you if such an issue exists or not? God bless and good luck!
Hey! So there is a potential issue. I believe the problem is that the camera uses 2 different technologies for autofocus, phase detection and contrast detection. Phase detection which is the best technology for tracking moving subjects does not work with apertures smaller than F/11 although contrast detection does work. Contrast detection needs a decent amount of contrast between the subject and the background in order to work effectively and overexposed backgrounds (bright sky/sun) can be a struggle for that technology. It's not something I would worry about though. The camera will still focus up to F/22 on most lenses and the A7III isn't the only camera that has this kind of limitation...in fact some cameras like the Panasonic S5 ONLY use contrast detection and don't even have the phase detection option. Hope that helps!
@@learningcameras Hi Dan, Thank you so very much for taking your valuable time to reply me in detail, Your answer was very helpful and informative for me and now, clearly I understand what's going on behind the focus mechanism in A7III and others. Stay always healthy and happy! Good luck Dan!
With or without a mirror, shakes will always occur if the shot is taken by hands: for almost shake-free photography, a tripod and a remote shutter-release are mandatory.
This was a very informative video. I just bought the Sony atr iii. It should arrive tomorrow Tuesday. I will probably need one on that or gain a lot from this one if/when the options are the same.
You're the first person to say that the electronic shutter off is the best way to go. From my understanding if you have it off and you use the actual shutter, you will get better bokeh. What do you think about that?
E shutter off is absolutely the way to go unless you have an A1. Electronic shutter is basically an electronic scan of the sensor and its not instantaneous so you can get rolling shutter, banding, and I have heard about aperture issues when using super fast shutter speeds
@@learningcameras I guess I misunderstood then? So you're saying E shutter off is the way to go and not ''E shutter ON, unless you're in doors with unreliable lighting''?
@@fufu1405 E shutter off is the way to go. The only exception where E shutter is OK is outdoors (indoor lighting can be an issue) with slow movement (landscapes, products...static portraits) and even then you could see some differences with depth of field/aperture in E shutter when also shooting very fast shutter speeds
@@learningcameras Thank you, is there any downside to leaving the E shutter off then? Why would Sony have it ON by default if it's so much better to have it off?
Five relatively complex operational features described and explained clearly by Dan, with the addition
of practical ways to understand and work with them.
Thank you Dan!
Appreciate that Ken!
Do you have any concerns regarding the shutter mechanical issues that people have been reporting on the Sony A7iii? I am on the fence about switching from a Nikon to the Sony.
One of the very best videos I have seen on the Sony Mirrorless cameras! I just subscribed! Do You by chance have any videos on the Sony A7R2? I own one of those and just feel that I'm not getting the full use of the cameras features. But again excellent video!
Thank you so much!!! The only video I have on the RII is the review unfortunately
You'd think the auto-focus settings would go to appropriate settings on it's own when you're using the eye autofocus.
Very good advice. Unfortunately, I didn't know about "Setting Effect" for years, and only figured it out last year. I was taking flash photography but had trouble seeing the underexposed live view. So that is super-useful for flash photography.
Rationalific just want to clarify, so when I am using ttl( as I heard TTL mode tend to overexpose a bit), inorder to get a balanced exposure, I need to turn the setting effect off , so that I can underexpose and expect ttl to take care of the scenario?
Thanks
+Femy: Good question. I was referring to using flash without TTL. Without TTL, if the setting effect is on, then the screen will be nearly black, because the flash is not communicating with it, and the screen is not expecting the flash. So in that case, without TTL, turning the setting effect off makes it like a regular DSLR, so you'll see a brighter image (in dark situations when you are purposefully underexposing in order to add your own light). If you use a TTL flash (or a flash in TTL setting), the screen with setting effect on should automatically brighten and show (generally, if imperfectly) what the final image should look like with the added light from the flash. I believe (though I'm not sure) that you can turn the setting effect off with a TTL flash, and it should still work...but you won't see an accurate preview in that case. Again, it will be like looking through an optical viewfinder. It will not show the final exposure of the image the way it will be taken. So in that case, I'd just recommend keeping setting effect on with TTL, as you'll get a better preview. So setting effect only deals with what you see in your viewfinder BEFORE you take the photo. If setting effect is on, the image before you take the photo will look like the photo that you take. If setting effect is off, the image before you take the photo will NOT change based on your exposure, as with an optical viewfinder. Again, the only exception is with a non-TTL flash, as with settings effect on, the light from the TTL flash will NOT be taken into consideration. (With a TTL flash, that light WILL be taken into consideration if setting effect is on.)
To the main point of your question, if TTL mode overexposes a bit, then my suggestion would be to turn the "flash compensation" down. It should be right in the "Function" menu by default. If you turn the "flash compensation" down, say, 2/3 EV, then the flash will be 2/3 of a stop dimmer every time you take a flash photo, no matter its reading (just as decreasing a camera's exposure value by 2/3 of a stop would make the entire image 2/3 of a stop dimmer). Let me know if you need me to clarify anything else.
I own a Canon 70D, not a Sony, but this vid was so informative and clear I just had to subscribe. Thank you.
Hahaha, Awesome! Thank you so much!!!
Hi Dan, I checked out your Kit links, but don't see that mini tripod listed, please tell me what it is if you can, I'd appreciate that. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for making it.
Thanks!!! This is the tripod is this: amzn.to/2FJ9yrZ
Hi Dan,
What do you think is a best buy today, the A7iii or A7Riii? The price difference has decreased to $500.
The EVF quality is noticeable between the 2 cameras?
Thanks
So you can notice the EVF quality difference side by side but I don't think if you picked up an A7III, you would be disappointed. That said the RIII has a little better weather sealing, better screen, and is probably a slightly better option if you are shooting mostly pictures
@@learningcameras Thanks! Finally I bought the A7iii and the 55 1.8 as a starting point. Mainly price decision.
Awesome!!!
Wow Dan, i have an A9 for a while now but did learn a lot from this video! Am now in doubt between the A7 iii and A7r iii for my second camera. What would you do? Buy the a7 and 24-105 or go for A7r?
Thanks for the effort.
Hi Dan. I just got my A7iii with 24-105 and I'm trying to find my way around coming from Nikon. Your video and detailed explanation really helped me find some key settings that I immediately applied. Just subscribed and will continue watch more of your videos.
That's awesome!!! Appreciate the sub Antonio
Currently using the A7III with canon 24-105 f4. Photos are not Sharp. Altho it's on F8. Kindly advise
Thanks Dan! I'm buying mine and it was really helpful specially because this will be my first mirrorless :)
Some of the comments might not be completely accurate. Especially around live effects and eye AF. The live effects I've noticed I do not need to switch it off on previous models such as A77ii I'm using and I have noticed with others on youtube with models such as A7Rii etc. If I underexpose purposely, the moment I switch my transmitter on if I'm using off camera flash, then the live view automatically adjust so I can see the picture. Or if transmitter is already on then the live effects are automatically disabled as well. The same with Eye AF. I do not need to change the focus areas or set it to continues focus. I usually shoot with spot focus and single shot AF and simply set the Eye AF button wherever I want it and as soon as I press the button it automatically searches the entire screen and continuously focuses for as long as I hold the button down. Maybe its changed in the mkiii models and A9, but I highly doubt it.
Surely the drop from 14 to 12bit would suggest to me colour range per pixel?
I love Sony and use their cameras exclusively, but WOW look at the banding here around 20 seconds in..
That's not banding, just flicker from lights in the floor (cheap under the floor lights on a Vegas casino). No camera unless it has a global shutter will get rid of that. Cameras like the GH5 allow you to pick exact shutter speeds so you can match the flicker so it doesn't look as bad but almost every camera shooting video can show flicker
Hi, I photograph horse portraits with a black background (BBG) What do you reccomend? e-shutter curtain on or off?
So basically Sony try to look better on paper 10fps look sweet till you find all downsides :( Dan how fast camera can shoot with full mechanical shutter and 14bit raw files?
Other manufactures do this too. They quote 2 FPS numbers, one with limitations such as mirror lockup, no AF, or no metering, and another with everything on full. Sony quotes 8fps in full uncompressed 14 bit RAW although that is with the electronic 1st curtain (no quote with the E curtain off). My guess is it would drop to about 6-7fps with the electronic 1st curtain off which is about what the competition can do. Again, it's no worse than a DSLR even in that mode as a DSLR moves the mirror 2x and shutter 2x where a mirrorless camera just moves the shutter 4x. But remember, having an electronic 1st curtain has big advantages over a dslr such as reduced vibration for more detail and less blackout so it's not like Sony only includes it to look better on paper with the faster framerates. The only downside of banding is super rare.
Dan Watson Where did you get the info from Sony about the A7 III’s 8 FPS in 14 bit uncompressed RAW?
Good Job, Dan. Straight to your points without ego-tripping side tracks. Don't have this camera (yet), but your info seems very relevant. Thanks.
Thanks!
Do you have your sony a7iii WiFi normally catching with the phone? I have a very weak signal, I tried different smartphones.
Dan, I checked out your link 'All our favorite A7III Gear' and it helped a lot! Just getting into photography and cinematography. Yes, both are of great interest to me. And I was looking at all-round lense which I can use for both. Evaluate. See what I like to do with camera in general before I start buying more glass. I discovered this - 'Sony Sonnar T* FE 55mm F/1.8 ZA'. Exactly what I need to start this great hobby. It's light, small. Natural fit for mirrorless cameras and yet solid, good quality. Not too expensive. I started having head spin after watching so many glass reviews and you pointed me into the right direction and for that I thank you! love your work.
Awesome!!! So glad that helped you. Just let me know if you have any questions
The closed shutter when lens is detached is the only thing I miss in Sony.. :)
Getting banding from the electronic first curtain seems very rare - my guess is only with very bright flickery LED lights with very specific shutter speeds. I've never seen in shooting A7 cameras for 5 years now. Good information about the lossy 12 bit raw when in compressed and continuous shooting (not continuous AF). I wasn't aware of that and I agree that it would be nice to have a setting to prevent the auto-switch to 12 bit raw. I wonder if it does this when bracketing at well since it is similar to continuous?
The e front curtain has a problem with high speed sync flash. It causes some photos more or less illuminated by the flash in the same conditions and settings
Is it possible to customise the front dial below the shutter to be compensation? thanks
In Focus Mode "Single-shot AF" eye tracking is working without pressing any additional buttons for me.
I got bending (lines) on my picture the other day using silent mode, the interesting part is, it happened in a same place (light) that I did shoot a month ago in silent mode and did not got any bending (lines). I turn off the silent mode and the lines were gone...
The speed of the shutter affect the bending. I have heard but I have never got yet to the bending situation I guess I'm lucky so far.
I cannot high speed sync with godox ad200 Pro & sony A7 M3. What's the issue??
Hi Dan, I just donated and tried to download your guide but the link isn't working.
at the very end you made it very confusing talking about the live display effect. you kept saying turn it off and then you said so you want this on, and then said off again, but never actually showed it turned off. so which is it that is better when not using flash? on or off
I like the live display effect on when not using a flash so I can see the actual image I will be taking in live view.
Finally I get it. Very clear. New subscriber here! Thanks for crunching lots of great info in shortest possible time. Awesome.
Thanks Joe!
Why do you need to customize eye AF to a new button? It works fine to me where its at by default.
It needs to be customized to a button but you can leave it where it is....I believe the default is the center D-pad button.
I am very new to camera's and I am buying this one for movie production, including some mild run and gun style. Do you have any video's to get me set up quickly so I can shoot right away without worrying about all these settings. I have used the Nikon 3200 when I worked for a tv station and shot commercials but I hardly messed with all the settings. mainly just used ISO to adjust the light quickly in the room.
Before I buy this I would like to take an in depth tutorial of the camera as well, online classes would be great, but for filmmaking mainly. Any suggestions?
I just got my a73 and I noticed it shakes inside when I turn it on AND when I turn a knob it sometimes does it. I am new to camera's and was wondering if you know why when I record everything looks great until I put the file in my computer and then it is all jittery! Im at 24fps and my shutter at 1/50, so im guessing that part is correct so should I be having that crazy stuttering of the video ?
I also need a very deep tutorial of how to set my camera for film production, would you know of anyone online that can walk me through in depth...I have to shoot a short film in 2 weeks and I need to have my setting for day and night, and 4k and 1080p
Fyi, the Canon M50 also has eye autofocus, and it works pretty well. I have both that and the Sony a7III, and the canon just seems to have a smaller area it will track the eyes. The Sony is still better at it from my experience, but more are getting it.
The Canon M50 will not track eyes in continuous AF
Hey bro, can you please try the Panasonic G9 😎thanks
I'm not a photographer but I really wanna get a nice camera for personal use, I've watched some reviews about this camera and I'm starting to like it. is it a good choice for someone like me whom doesn't know much about camera
It's definitely a more complex camera so I'd more recommend it if you are willing to learn more
Great Video Dan , Thank you so much for the info .
and can u suggest me how to balance ( Calibrate ) both view finder nd monitor color temp . Have anyone faced the Color issues ?
As a mirrorless camera newbie with the a73, I found this to be the best explanation of these functions I’ve found on you tube. Great job!
Where is format memory card option in A7III ? Where can i find it ?
Menu, Setup, page 5
Hey Brother, love your videos! I actually need your expert opinion. I was looking for a versatile lens as I don't like changing lens too much. However, I do a little food vlogging, Travelling and Food photography and videography. Which lens would you suggest me? (Using A7iii)
Appreciate that! My first lens would be the Tamron 28-75 F2.8: bhpho.to/2klEbf5
It's a solid all around lens that is light/portable with a wide aperture and the most common focal lengths covered.
After that I would look at what focal lengths you use the most and maybe pick up.a prime lens
OOHH so it is "Live View Display" !! it used to be "Exposure Simulator" on Canon DSLR.. now i know. Thanks Dan!