8 years later, and your videos are still helping me out. Mine was busted also. Only difference was the bolt on the bottom was an E12 for me. Thank you for all your videos, you are awesome.
I really wanted to thank you for making this videos and keeping them available. Just picked up a 2006 Mini R52 for 500 bucks and your videos are very helpful in bringing it back on the road. If you're ever in Sacramento I'm buying you a cold one! I'm purchasing all my parts using your Amazon links and hope that helps!
Great big thank you for posting this video. I was able to replace mine in less then 1 hour. This is the 3rd mount last one done by the dealer under warranty. I am so proud of myself, saved a ton of bucks, not bad for this 51 year old lady! I caught the staining on my garage floor right away. I am still running the original serpentine belt, I should have ordered one with the mount , and got that done too, it was right in plain view. Oh well for sure within the next month. Thanks again for taking the time to post the videos!
OMG!!! I finally found out what that noise was!!! I don’t know if you remember.. but I had a noise after I replaced my power steering pump and I thought it was wheel hub assembly and it turned out to be the hydraulic motor mount and the transmission motor mount. I’m so happy now!!!! My car is running smooth and quiet.
I just did this job (mount was collapsed, of course after only 41K miles). This video made the job easy. I looked up in the Bentley manual: all the torques are 100Nm/74ft-lbs except the E12 torx bolt, which is 50ft-lbs. When I went back over it with the torque wrench, the bolts weren't nearly tight enough.
I did this job today. 100 Nm on the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the engine block, according to the Bentley manual. Experienced a strange thing when torqueing down the bolts. Started all bolts by hand, used torque wrench at the end. The first three went "click" and the torque was set. On the fourth, the bolt started to be heavy, but then suddenly felt soft and more loose again. It won't acheived the right torque. As if it is breaking or the threads are ruined. It is not cross threaded. What can be wrong? Should I buy a new bolt. What if the threads in the engine block are ruined?
I wanted to thank you for this video, you made it extremely easy to swap out my failed OEM mount with a Vibra Technics. A significant reason why I purchased my MINI a few months ago was because all of the major points of failure seem to be covered by your VERY detailed videos. Thanks so much!
+Mod MINI to be honest your videos were a big selling point for me too. I started watching your engine rebuild videos and it made me go test drive a couple minis and now i have a 2005 MCS.
Another great video. Did mine yesterday. My bottom bolt was an E12 though. Which was a bit awkward when the cars in bits and you haven’t got one 😆. Thanks again Mod Mini!
Thanks, this is the best video that I've seen for this job. Just been out and changed the mount on my 2006 MCS in less than an hour after watching how you did it!
thanks for this, the video helped me change my camshaft position sensor which requires the removal of the motor mount (which i replaced as well). super easy and straightforward, done in an hour including jacking up and putting away all the tools. engine feels so much smoother as a result.
Good video, was about as easy as you made it seem, going to the store for an E12 I didn't have was the most time consuming part. did coilovers last week with your video on that as guide. my r53 is riding pretty sweet, thanks
Thanks for the great video. I have been told that the torx bolt for the mount should be replaced when the mount is replaced. It seems that it is rated as a one time use bolt. Pelican parts provides the correct bolt for purchase when replacing the mount. Thanks again for a great, very clear description of the process.
This helped me tremendously. Just did this today! Seems as though my torx bolt underneath was an E14... but then again I saw that it looks like the mount was replaced at one point (probably by mini) in 2012. It was my fiancee's car. Plus points!
As others have said hunting down an E12 socket (and usually in set that cost more that than the motor mount) can take longer than the actual work. without it the job can become a PITA if you round the head of the torx bolt using an 10mm hex. My experience went just as mini mod said. I did find I could work out/in the 2 front 16 mm bolts and wiggle the motor mount bracket out and back in without disconnecting the hoses and pump on the hanger bracket. So thanks again..
Love all the work ur doing on the copper's when I by my copper I know who to go to for info.I want a super fast streetcar or a sleeper or a V8 eater.b blessed keep up the good work.friend.
Thank you so much! got mine installed and it is awesome. The previous owner had the older style motor mount in my car, even though mine is the refresh version! Anyway, it's all sorted now and works awesome.
Love your channel mate, thanks for all your hard work and generosity to share your knowledge. Among a laundry list of stuff on my 06 JCW R53, this is the next job I am doing today. Hey lunch is on my if you're in Navarre, FL.
Great stuff here. Was wondering if you could do a vid of replacing the transmission motor mount for those of us that are/have replaced the others already.
So, that small black Delphi evap canister you move out of the way at 1:44 is rattling like crazy on my car. Have you experienced this before? Does it mean that the canister is faulty or something else is going on in the evap system? I'm also getting an intermittent 0442 code (minor leak).
just whant to say that it's been 2 days now that i see your videos , and man that really help! im cherching for a cooper s and your videos are the best and really good explain to keep up the good work man ;-) ps: sorry for my english, not perfect!!
Just changed mine on my 05 R53, bottom bolt dumped oil just like in your video. Thanks for the great video, my bolt was an e12, I think you said e10 in the video. Clunk is gone when I let off the gas. Now to do the bottom on as its cracking and I am guessing the trans mnt is old as well.
Is a loud creaking noise right front indicator of this failing mount? My 06 R53 manual started creaking loudly as I take off from a start exiting a parking space or stoplight and get on the gas under torque load. I pulled the wheel and checked all bolt torques and can’t find the noise at a standstill prying around.I silicone sprayed the spring perches and mounts as well as the motor mount and no change. I did install new control arm bushings (which sucked!) when I did the clutch (sucked more but tolerable with your excellent instructions)!
I just tighten to feel. probably about 70 ft lbs should do it. With a 1/2 socket wrench pull and lean into it and give it a good tug, that should do it.
Just did this job in an hour. Bolt from underneath was disgusting. Hardest part was getting the engine lined up to the mount with 4 bolts. I did the job with gorilla ramps and the cheapest bottle jack they had at the auto parts store, as well as a random piece of wood and a brick I found laying around my apartment complex. Now my mini doesnt make a weird rally pingy noise under hard acceleration.
***** Thank you for the confirmation. All other sources did advise it's an E12. I bought an E12 socket yesterday in preparation for this task on Monday
Thank you again! Your vids are fantastic. I just replaced my mount. Without this video I wont have done it. My repair manual had nothing about removing the motor bracket and had me removing the wheel and inner fender! I couldn't find any torque specs for these pieces, is there any?
I am thinking about buying Mini Cooper S for a daily driver and the occasional canyon run. I am looking for something that is relatively low mileage but, what is considered low mileage for a Mini Cooper S? Your videos make owning and maintaining one look doable. Thanks.
I have a 2002 that the gear shifter wheel and can feel in the floor/seat shaking when driving above 55mph I need to replace this hopefully thats problem but is the one in the discription the right one as Id like to order through amazon but mine is not metal on the 02
As always thank you for the walk through! I replaced due to a front passenger side vibration under acceleration on my 2006 R53. But now it’s still there only more apparent at higher speeds. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Very nice video! My 2006 MCS is leaking black liquid at the mount, but it's coming from the tiny hole halfway the mount. Is it broken then? Or is this some sort of valve for when there is too much liquid?
My E12 bolt is stuck into the mount pretty good. It appears the bolt is slightly rounded, both a 10mm and an E12 slip on the head. How would you recommend I proceed? Thanks for any feedback.
I'd probably buy a new bolt, then cut the old one off at the head with a sawz-all or disk grinder (or hacksaw, if you want to build some muscles) and then lift the whole thing straight out the top.
I will have to replace mine asap. Thanks for the video. Wouldn't I need to remove or loosen the bolt on the driver's side motor mount before I can lift the engine up? Is lifting the engine at all necessary? Can I get away with just having the jack hold the engine at it's normal level?
No, the left side mount is flexible enough that it will move enough to replace the right side mount. You only need to lift the engine a tiny bit to get the weight off the bracket that's attached to the engine (after loosening the 18mm bolt on the top)
Yeah you was right definitely needs replacing the new item is almost solid to move. Trouble is that the bolts siezed in there tight, any tips on how to help crack the bolt? iv just filled the motor mount up with regular oil in hope this will work it's way down over night?
+Warwick Dean You mean the bottom bolt? Impact gun or twist harder. You bought a new bottom bolt? If not, get one because there is a chance the old one will break. regular oil won't do anything. You'd need penetrating oil.
+Mod MINI ok thanks il try the impact gun just need to get the right socket to fit it, I will order a new bolt but for now I will have to use the old one or I have some m8 12.9 long bolts just to keep me going cheers for the information again man!
+Warwick Dean Crack the E12 bolt with a breaker bar and an E12 socket. My E12 socket is 3/8" drive. I used a 1/2" drive breaker bar, 18" long, with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. That did the trick.
+Garth Goldberg I did it cheers mate, ended up doing it by hand after a fresh coffee B-) made a huge difference to the car, there no more "yo yo" engine sway
Hi Mod Mini , I tried to unscrew the TORX down screw with the 10 mm six sided socket , as explained in the video. The 10 mm socket damaged the TORX print and the screw did not turned. I bought the E12 socket and tried to unscrew again . It did not worked better . The TORX print is definitely damaged . Which option have I now to unscrew the down screw ? The head is impossible to cut ( no access ) . Should I try to drill the TORX head ? Can you advice me . thanks .
Ah! that's better! I used your video to learn how to replace my one engine mount on the passenger side. It took me longer to find my tools than to the job. Job time was around 30 minutes. Finding my tools, about an hour.
I know this is got nothing to do with your video I started my mini up today Cooper S loads of white smoke came out but then went ok is that normal and it seems very raspy on acceleration coming through bonnet got no loss of power though your channels Ace
Update: I had to loosen the drivers side bracket to force the engine over a bit and raise the engine as well at the same time. Oh... and my bottom anchor bolt is an E12 . Go figure. But let me tell you... changing that mount was the best thing ever. I got a new car 🚗 now!!! So smooth... so quiet. 😁
Yes. Can you believe that. I have found that my car has to be a little extra on just about everything I do. But that’s 👍 because it challenges me and I end up learning even more.
Sorry to hear that. This is super easy to do yourself with a 13mm socket, 16mm socket, e10 socket, about 18 inches of socket extensions, socket driver, breaker bar and a couple of jackstands and a floor jack. An aftermarket mount is easily less than $100 so you could buy every one of these tools and still come out ahead!
Hi. I always appreciate your video. can I ask something. My R53 has problem that when I driving to 80km~100km, the shaking from under the body and only when I accelerating. also the exaust shaking too when I start or waiting for signal only after long driving and pretty loud . and back to normal after day. but when the engine to hit, It's coming back again. so some people said the Problem is from the engine mount. Is it possible?
thank you. I might check it on this weekend. can I ask one more thing? My r53 has leak an oil. I think the oil leak from an oil filter housing or an oil cooler but I'm not sure. could you check my video in my Chanel? I've got 4 video about the leak an oil in my engine room. the oil leak only when I start a car in the morning or after parking to a while. I tried figure out from Feb but still can't find it. thank you.
김재헌 It's hard to tell from the videos, but it might be the oil filter housing. Other possible locations are valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, timing cover seal or crankshaft pulley seal.
Thanks, just looked at your video after spotting a load of hydraulic fluid near the engine mount of my wifes 2004 mini. I didn't think it looked right. Presumably that would affect the smoothness of the ride when slowing down speeding up?
If I loosen the bolts a tad and move the engine back and forth will that help to set the mount in place. It look like the slot on the top bracket is for adj.?
John Smidl Maybe. The elongated bolt is for left-right adjustment and I doubt that makes any difference in terms of vibration unless your car as been in an accident.
Thank you for this video, I was told both my engine mounts are bad is there a specific order I need to do this in...passenger side first or drivers side first? Does it matter?
+Thomas Henry If I recall, loosen top bumper clips, remove the black metal top surround and right headlight and then there are four bolts. But the motor mount is the least of your challenges for that job.... I've done once before and I didn't like it. I'll make a video whenever I do it next if owner can leave the car behind.
hey Mod Mini, i also have a bad motor mount, but was thinking of changing super charger pulley, crank pulley, seal and chain tensioner, is there a good sequence of doing this project?
Do them all at once is the best, hehe. You need to remove the mount bracket to do the pulley, so best to do those first. The crank pulley and timing cover seal can be done pretty easily any time once you know how to get the accessory belt off.
+djtoo7 If a mount is worn, replace it. I don't think you have to match all the mounts. If you go high perf all the way around, you're going to get some serious NVH.
Hi really like your videos. How would you know if the engine mount needed replacing? would there be any symptoms. As i currently have a knocking noise when accelerating and braking (mainly noticeable at slow speeds). I jacked up the car but could see no damage to the cv boots or excessive play in the suspension. The only thin i did note was a clicking sound when changing the direction of wheel rotation, but that could be normal for all i know. Hence wondering if it could be an engine mount...
+Jo Lavender You'd hear or feel a jerk/bump/thud under hard acceleration or hard deceleration. Rubber mounts - you would see tearing of the bushing. Hydraulic - you would see black goo at the bottom of the mount. Slight clicking from CV joints / differential when turning by hand is not unusual.
Mod MINI thanks mate. Didn't know that. Don't you think rubber is still more worth it or you prefer these hydrolic mounting. Thanks for answering and well done.
After watching your video on motor mounts I checked my mount on a 03 R53 and notice the cloth strap aound the rubber as moved up over the top of the mount and will not go back without a lot of force which will probably break the strap the plastic the is still in place---- the rubber seems to be intact----question---- should I replace the mount?
thank you for all of great content Sir. question? I have a 2006 r53 and will be replacing my upper engine mount this weekend. Could you knidly provide me with the torque specs for each of the bolts that hold the unit in place. I have ordered the Bentley service manual but it won't arrive until next week in order to attain specs. many thanks Andre
@@ModMINI torque specs are important when tightening these critical components. Either you will overtighten and risk broken bolts or undertighten & risk loose bolts.
Other than the surrounding area below the engine mount covered in oil residue, what other obvious (or not so obvious) signs of a deteriorated engine mount would one notice?
***** Could that be why my shifting is so hard in my R53? I had been told my motor mount needed to be replaced months ago, but had no idea what kind of problems it may carry (if any) and the last several months have shown my shifting deteriorating. Especially in the cold weather.
Christopher Gale Even more problematic is the dogbone mount underneath. If that one wears out you'll eventually crack the flex joint on the exhaust manifold.
FYI - '02 R53 - it was definitely not an E10, something bigger maybe an E13 or E15... It's definitely bigger than my largest e-torx, E11. Update: apologies! I failed to see you addressed this in the description! It's an E12. However a 10mm hex did the trick (I definitely would NOT try a 10mm 12point)
If you have a bad one of these, can the car potentially drive with a wobble, kinda like an axel problem? I ask because I replaced my axel and my alignment is perfect, and I still have wobble at low speeds and the wheel shakes at high speeds.
mod mini question, could this mount be the cause of a 2 replacement of the axle? i replaced it not even 1 mile when the axle totally broke inside the boot
Michael Pharr If you are driving the car on track or for autocross, sure. For street driving, you'll probably find it's not worth the extra NVH (noise, vibration, harshness).
Oh dear, something went wrong when I tried this on my R53 yesterday. When I raised the engine off of the motor mount, then engine lurched backwards a few inches as soon as it cleared the top stud. I’ve paused my work, but am unable to remount the engine; the best I could do is lower it down onto the rear-top of the failed mount. Has this happened to anyone else? Any advice on how to safely get out of this jam?
also, if i replace the right side (passenger side, true?) factory engine mount with an aftermarket mount like vibratechnics or torque solution, will that cause problems? will i need to replace all of the mounts? will it fit correctly?
welp figured out the answer is no lol, the engine mount bracket with the vac lines and four bolts is too short on the 03, obviously the other minis have a taller bracket to compensate for the size difference
8 years later, and your videos are still helping me out. Mine was busted also. Only difference was the bolt on the bottom was an E12 for me. Thank you for all your videos, you are awesome.
Be proud that your video is still helping someone 7 years later. My R50 thanks you kind sir!
I really wanted to thank you for making this videos and keeping them available. Just picked up a 2006 Mini R52 for 500 bucks and your videos are very helpful in bringing it back on the road. If you're ever in Sacramento I'm buying you a cold one! I'm purchasing all my parts using your Amazon links and hope that helps!
You’re a legend in my R53 owners club in the UK so keep it up!
Great big thank you for posting this video. I was able to replace mine in less then 1 hour. This is the 3rd mount last one done by the dealer under warranty. I am so proud of myself, saved a ton of bucks, not bad for this 51 year old lady! I caught the staining on my garage floor right away. I am still running the original serpentine belt, I should have ordered one with the mount , and got that done too, it was right in plain view. Oh well for sure within the next month. Thanks again for taking the time to post the videos!
Glad it went well for you. Have fun fixing your car and save money too!
Well Done Kathleen!
OMG!!! I finally found out what that noise was!!! I don’t know if you remember.. but I had a noise after I replaced my power steering pump and I thought it was wheel hub assembly and it turned out to be the hydraulic motor mount and the transmission motor mount. I’m so happy now!!!! My car is running smooth and quiet.
Can you describe the sound? My r50 is making a weird noise that sounds maybe like a wheel bearing but I’m not sure...thinking it could be this
I just did this job (mount was collapsed, of course after only 41K miles). This video made the job easy.
I looked up in the Bentley manual: all the torques are 100Nm/74ft-lbs except the E12 torx bolt, which is 50ft-lbs. When I went back over it with the torque wrench, the bolts weren't nearly tight enough.
+Garth Goldberg That sounds about right, a bit looser than a wheel lug.
I did this job today. 100 Nm on the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the engine block, according to the Bentley manual. Experienced a strange thing when torqueing down the bolts. Started all bolts by hand, used torque wrench at the end. The first three went "click" and the torque was set. On the fourth, the bolt started to be heavy, but then suddenly felt soft and more loose again. It won't acheived the right torque. As if it is breaking or the threads are ruined. It is not cross threaded. What can be wrong? Should I buy a new bolt. What if the threads in the engine block are ruined?
I wanted to thank you for this video, you made it extremely easy to swap out my failed OEM mount with a Vibra Technics. A significant reason why I purchased my MINI a few months ago was because all of the major points of failure seem to be covered by your VERY detailed videos. Thanks so much!
+Chris Brown Uh oh, I hope my videos don't cause a price rise in the used MINI market.
+Mod MINI to be honest your videos were a big selling point for me too. I started watching your engine rebuild videos and it made me go test drive a couple minis and now i have a 2005 MCS.
Another great video. Did mine yesterday. My bottom bolt was an E12 though. Which was a bit awkward when the cars in bits and you haven’t got one 😆. Thanks again Mod Mini!
UA-cam removed annotations. Sorry about wrong bolt size callout.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Just replaced the worn mount on my '06 MINI with the info you provided!
Thanks, this is the best video that I've seen for this job. Just been out and changed the mount on my 2006 MCS in less than an hour after watching how you did it!
Just did this. One of many videos you've done that have helped my mini stay on the road! Thank you!
thanks for this, the video helped me change my camshaft position sensor which requires the removal of the motor mount (which i replaced as well). super easy and straightforward, done in an hour including jacking up and putting away all the tools. engine feels so much smoother as a result.
Not a problem man. Couldn’t afford to run my car without you! ✌🏼
Good video, was about as easy as you made it seem, going to the store for an E12 I didn't have was the most time consuming part. did coilovers last week with your video on that as guide. my r53 is riding pretty sweet, thanks
I don’t LIKE your videos.... I ❤️ your videos. Why don’t they have a love button
Great video just done mine thanks saved me a packet no more knocking 👍
your the man dude! thanks for all the awesome, informative videos!
Thanks for the great video. I have been told that the torx bolt for the mount should be replaced when the mount is replaced. It seems that it is rated as a one time use bolt. Pelican parts provides the correct bolt for purchase when replacing the mount.
Thanks again for a great, very clear description of the process.
That's what they say but I can't see why unless it's corroded...
It seemed odd to me too. I changed the bolt when I changed my motor mount as a precaution. Cars runs great now. Thanks Again.
This helped me tremendously. Just did this today! Seems as though my torx bolt underneath was an E14... but then again I saw that it looks like the mount was replaced at one point (probably by mini) in 2012.
It was my fiancee's car. Plus points!
By far my favorite mini repearing video! Good job and thank you!
Just used this guide to do this job on my '06. Very helpful! Thanks
Saved again by those small details. Thank you.
As others have said hunting down an E12 socket (and usually in set that cost more that than the motor mount) can take longer than the actual work. without it the job can become a PITA if you round the head of the torx bolt using an 10mm hex.
My experience went just as mini mod said. I did find I could work out/in the 2 front 16 mm bolts and wiggle the motor mount bracket out and back in without disconnecting the hoses and pump on the hanger bracket.
So thanks again..
I stripped the bolt slightly so now Im in a slight pickle. How did you go about removing the rounded bolt head?
Love all the work ur doing on the copper's when I by my copper I know who to go to for info.I want a super fast streetcar or a sleeper or a V8 eater.b blessed keep up the good work.friend.
Great video, light, and sound quality! Definitely subscribing. Had this same repair done last year, wish I had discovered "Mod MINI" before hand!!!!
Thanks! I hate bad quality stuff. :-)
thank you. you saved me some money, now I'm willing to attempt this myself
Awesome video man. Just done this on my mini using the info from this vid. Love the channel, keep up the great work!
Thank you so much! got mine installed and it is awesome. The previous owner had the older style motor mount in my car, even though mine is the refresh version! Anyway, it's all sorted now and works awesome.
Love your channel mate, thanks for all your hard work and generosity to share your knowledge. Among a laundry list of stuff on my 06 JCW R53, this is the next job I am doing today. Hey lunch is on my if you're in Navarre, FL.
Another great video from Mod MINI. You've helped me a lot. Thank you.
Thanks for the info, I have watched several of your very helpful videos----keep up the excellent work!!!!
Again - thanks for this video. This job is on my list - after my power steering pump replacement as shown in another of your videos. :)
Great stuff here. Was wondering if you could do a vid of replacing the transmission motor mount for those of us that are/have replaced the others already.
scottinbend When the job ever happens I will record it.
*****
Can't ask for more, thanks.
thanks for the video you make the job look easy. and your explanation is very clear. Gracias.
So, that small black Delphi evap canister you move out of the way at 1:44 is rattling like crazy on my car. Have you experienced this before? Does it mean that the canister is faulty or something else is going on in the evap system? I'm also getting an intermittent 0442 code (minor leak).
Kris Yates It shouldn't make noise. Replace it and both problems will probably go away.
Don't take out the top bolt first, which I did and then realized when I went to undo the bottom one it turned and split my cam position sensor!
just whant to say that it's been 2 days now that i see your videos , and man that really help!
im cherching for a cooper s and your videos are the best and really good explain to
keep up the good work man ;-)
ps: sorry for my english, not perfect!!
Thanks!
Just changed mine on my 05 R53, bottom bolt dumped oil just like in your video. Thanks for the great video, my bolt was an e12, I think you said e10 in the video. Clunk is gone when I let off the gas. Now to do the bottom on as its cracking and I am guessing the trans mnt is old as well.
Nice vid. You make this job look easy.
Garth Goldberg Thanks! This job is really not all that hard if you are prepared and know what to expect. :-)
Did this on my mini the reverse torque was e12. Might be because I had a hard top or something I don't know.
The motor shifted to the rear when removing the failed motor mount. I used a stout 2x4 to push it forward using the strut brace as the fulcrum.
Is a loud creaking noise right front indicator of this failing mount? My 06 R53 manual started creaking loudly as I take off from a start exiting a parking space or stoplight and get on the gas under torque load. I pulled the wheel and checked all bolt torques and can’t find the noise at a standstill prying around.I silicone sprayed the spring perches and mounts as well as the motor mount and no change. I did install new control arm bushings (which sucked!) when I did the clutch (sucked more but tolerable with your excellent instructions)!
Hi Mod MINI
Thanks for all the video's and comments, do I need to find and pay attention to torque specifications for reassembling the motor mount ?
I just tighten to feel. probably about 70 ft lbs should do it. With a 1/2 socket wrench pull and lean into it and give it a good tug, that should do it.
Just did this job in an hour. Bolt from underneath was disgusting. Hardest part was getting the engine lined up to the mount with 4 bolts. I did the job with gorilla ramps and the cheapest bottle jack they had at the auto parts store, as well as a random piece of wood and a brick I found laying around my apartment complex. Now my mini doesnt make a weird rally pingy noise under hard acceleration.
Your video was really helpful. Thank you!
Thanks, was very helpful. I did mine just now on the ground without jacking it up it by turning the wheel full right, other wise all the same.
You used a E12 socket, but there are some write ups that say it's E10. Did Mini randomly use either size during the car production?
I think you meant it's an E12 and not E10 Sorry, it's an E12. I made a mistake in the video. I'll put an annotation on the video.
*****
Thank you for the confirmation. All other sources did advise it's an E12. I bought an E12 socket yesterday in preparation for this task on Monday
Thank you again! Your vids are fantastic. I just replaced my mount. Without this video I wont have done it. My repair manual had nothing about removing the motor bracket and had me removing the wheel and inner fender! I couldn't find any torque specs for these pieces, is there any?
BigSteveRealtor Good and tight.
Your video helped me so much! Please keep it going!
I am thinking about buying Mini Cooper S for a daily driver and the occasional canyon run. I am looking for something that is relatively low mileage but, what is considered low mileage for a Mini Cooper S? Your videos make owning and maintaining one look doable. Thanks.
Excellent tutorial, thanks!
I have a 2002 that the gear shifter wheel and can feel in the floor/seat shaking when driving above 55mph I need to replace this hopefully thats problem but is the one in the discription the right one as Id like to order through amazon but mine is not metal on the 02
As always thank you for the walk through! I replaced due to a front passenger side vibration under acceleration on my 2006 R53. But now it’s still there only more apparent at higher speeds. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Check other mounts and front suspension for leaks
Perfect walkthrough. Liked n subscribed.
Very nice video! My 2006 MCS is leaking black liquid at the mount, but it's coming from the tiny hole halfway the mount. Is it broken then? Or is this some sort of valve for when there is too much liquid?
+Zuki Brabant Offroad Club Broken.
+Mod MINI Ok, thank you!
My E12 bolt is stuck into the mount pretty good. It appears the bolt is slightly rounded, both a 10mm and an E12 slip on the head. How would you recommend I proceed? Thanks for any feedback.
I'd probably buy a new bolt, then cut the old one off at the head with a sawz-all or disk grinder (or hacksaw, if you want to build some muscles) and then lift the whole thing straight out the top.
My top engine mount is pre-facelift so it's rubber, do I have to use rubber again or can I buy a facelift one for my 2002 R53?
ThePolechick You can use a hyrdaulic mount but you'll need to use the post-facelift engine bracket as well.
I will have to replace mine asap. Thanks for the video. Wouldn't I need to remove or loosen the bolt on the driver's side motor mount before I can lift the engine up? Is lifting the engine at all necessary? Can I get away with just having the jack hold the engine at it's normal level?
No, the left side mount is flexible enough that it will move enough to replace the right side mount. You only need to lift the engine a tiny bit to get the weight off the bracket that's attached to the engine (after loosening the 18mm bolt on the top)
*****
thank you. You're the best!
Yeah you was right definitely needs replacing the new item is almost solid to move. Trouble is that the bolts siezed in there tight, any tips on how to help crack the bolt? iv just filled the motor mount up with regular oil in hope this will work it's way down over night?
+Warwick Dean You mean the bottom bolt? Impact gun or twist harder. You bought a new bottom bolt? If not, get one because there is a chance the old one will break. regular oil won't do anything. You'd need penetrating oil.
+Mod MINI ok thanks il try the impact gun just need to get the right socket to fit it, I will order a new bolt but for now I will have to use the old one or I have some m8 12.9 long bolts just to keep me going
cheers for the information again man!
+Warwick Dean Crack the E12 bolt with a breaker bar and an E12 socket. My E12 socket is 3/8" drive. I used a 1/2" drive breaker bar, 18" long, with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. That did the trick.
+Garth Goldberg
I did it cheers mate, ended up doing it by hand after a fresh coffee B-)
made a huge difference to the car, there no more "yo yo" engine sway
Hi Mod Mini ,
I tried to unscrew the TORX down screw with the 10 mm six sided socket , as explained in the video.
The 10 mm socket damaged the TORX print and the screw did not turned. I bought the E12 socket and tried to unscrew again . It did not worked better . The TORX print is definitely damaged .
Which option have I now to unscrew the down screw ? The head is impossible to cut ( no access ) . Should I try to drill the TORX head ?
Can you advice me . thanks .
Videos are soo good!
This is actually a really good video, but I was looking to see who didn't like it and clicked the dislike button by mistake. My bad.
You can click the other like button to clear the dislike.
Ah! that's better! I used your video to learn how to replace my one engine mount on the passenger side. It took me longer to find my tools than to the job. Job time was around 30 minutes. Finding my tools, about an hour.
I know this is got nothing to do with your video I started my mini up today Cooper S loads of white smoke came out but then went ok is that normal and it seems very raspy on acceleration coming through bonnet got no loss of power though your channels Ace
Update: I had to loosen the drivers side bracket to force the engine over a bit and raise the engine as well at the same time. Oh... and my bottom anchor bolt is an E12 . Go figure. But let me tell you... changing that mount was the best thing ever. I got a new car 🚗 now!!! So smooth... so quiet. 😁
Just to replace the motor mount? That's unusual. yes the bolt is an E12 but youtube won't let me annotate the video.
Yes. Can you believe that. I have found that my car has to be a little extra on just about everything I do. But that’s 👍 because it challenges me and I end up learning even more.
I had local repair shop do this for me a few years ago. Charged me $350. A year later the mount failed again. Still driving on the bad mount.
Sorry to hear that. This is super easy to do yourself with a 13mm socket, 16mm socket, e10 socket, about 18 inches of socket extensions, socket driver, breaker bar and a couple of jackstands and a floor jack. An aftermarket mount is easily less than $100 so you could buy every one of these tools and still come out ahead!
Hi. I always appreciate your video. can I ask something. My R53 has problem that when I driving to 80km~100km, the shaking from under the body and only when I accelerating. also the exaust shaking too when I start or waiting for signal only after long driving and pretty loud . and back to normal after day. but when the engine to hit, It's coming back again. so some people said the Problem is from the engine mount. Is it possible?
김재헌 That sounds like engine or exhaust mount.
***** It could also be very worn shocks.
thank you. I might check it on this weekend. can I ask one more thing? My r53 has leak an oil. I think the oil leak from an oil filter housing or an oil cooler but I'm not sure. could you check my video in my Chanel? I've got 4 video about the leak an oil in my engine room. the oil leak only when I start a car in the morning or after parking to a while. I tried figure out from Feb but still can't find it. thank you.
김재헌 It's hard to tell from the videos, but it might be the oil filter housing. Other possible locations are valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, timing cover seal or crankshaft pulley seal.
Thanks, just looked at your video after spotting a load of hydraulic fluid near the engine mount of my wifes 2004 mini. I didn't think it looked right. Presumably that would affect the smoothness of the ride when slowing down speeding up?
+Driving Disasters Yeah it might be a little lurchy.
If I loosen the bolts a tad and move the engine back and forth will that help to set the mount in place. It look like the slot on the top bracket is for adj.?
John Smidl Maybe. The elongated bolt is for left-right adjustment and I doubt that makes any difference in terms of vibration unless your car as been in an accident.
Thank you for this video, I was told both my engine mounts are bad is there a specific order I need to do this in...passenger side first or drivers side first? Does it matter?
The second engine mount is under the car. Order is irrelevant
@@ModMINI Awesome, thank you!
do you have similar instructions on how remove the same motor mount on an R55 09 Mini Clubman in order to do a
timing chain casette replacement?
+Thomas Henry If I recall, loosen top bumper clips, remove the black metal top surround and right headlight and then there are four bolts. But the motor mount is the least of your challenges for that job.... I've done once before and I didn't like it. I'll make a video whenever I do it next if owner can leave the car behind.
Hi,
It seems earlier R50/53 had an old engine mount design. This design changes in 2004. Have you some informations about that ?
Yes, there was an older design before 2004. The parts can be easily found.
hey Mod Mini, i also have a bad motor mount, but was thinking of changing super charger pulley, crank pulley, seal and chain tensioner, is there a good sequence of doing this project?
Do them all at once is the best, hehe.
You need to remove the mount bracket to do the pulley, so best to do those first.
The crank pulley and timing cover seal can be done pretty easily any time once you know how to get the accessory belt off.
and should we replace the trans mounts too and should they all match on the type of mount rubber or high performance etc. thx
+djtoo7 If a mount is worn, replace it. I don't think you have to match all the mounts. If you go high perf all the way around, you're going to get some serious NVH.
Hi really like your videos. How would you know if the engine mount needed replacing? would there be any symptoms. As i currently have a knocking noise when accelerating and braking (mainly noticeable at slow speeds). I jacked up the car but could see no damage to the cv boots or excessive play in the suspension. The only thin i did note was a clicking sound when changing the direction of wheel rotation, but that could be normal for all i know. Hence wondering if it could be an engine mount...
+Jo Lavender You'd hear or feel a jerk/bump/thud under hard acceleration or hard deceleration. Rubber mounts - you would see tearing of the bushing. Hydraulic - you would see black goo at the bottom of the mount. Slight clicking from CV joints / differential when turning by hand is not unusual.
clicking sound is your CV joints
Anyone know of a video showing the driver side mount being replaced?
Well done mate. Why on earth did they use hydrolic mounting instead of the conventional rubber?
Because it insulates vibration better. It's common throughout the passenger car industry.
Mod MINI thanks mate. Didn't know that. Don't you think rubber is still more worth it or you prefer these hydrolic mounting. Thanks for answering and well done.
would this mount u show in this video fit a 2003 mini even know it looks different? and by the way thanks for all ur videos
+Luis Garcia I don't think so. You need the rubber mount.
Thanks brother
After watching your video on motor mounts I checked my mount on a 03 R53 and notice the cloth strap aound the rubber as moved up over the top of the mount and will not go back without a lot of force which will probably break the strap the plastic the is still in place---- the rubber seems to be intact----question---- should I replace the mount?
I'd err on safe side and replace it. A bad mount can cause the exhaust flex joint to fail due to excess engine movement. Better safe than sorry.
Do you have any video how to replace sway bar bushing ang linkage bushing of Mini Cooper S 2004.
+Serigo Pastrana Which sway bar?
thank you for all of great content Sir. question? I have a 2006 r53 and will be replacing my upper engine mount this weekend. Could you knidly provide me with the torque specs for each of the bolts that hold the unit in place. I have ordered the Bentley service manual but it won't arrive until next week in order to attain specs.
many thanks Andre
Sorry, I don't know what the torque are. I just tighten them to what feels right.
ok thanks very much!
@@ModMINI torque specs are important when tightening these critical components. Either you will overtighten and risk broken bolts or undertighten & risk loose bolts.
Bottom E12 bolt @ 50ftlbs
Four 16mm bracket bolts @ 50ftlbs
18mm mounting nut @ 50ftlbs
Other than the surrounding area below the engine mount covered in oil residue, what other obvious (or not so obvious) signs of a deteriorated engine mount would one notice?
Not much other than engine lurching around a bit and causing shifts and acceleration to feel harsh.
*****
Could that be why my shifting is so hard in my R53? I had been told my motor mount needed to be replaced months ago, but had no idea what kind of problems it may carry (if any) and the last several months have shown my shifting deteriorating. Especially in the cold weather.
Christopher Gale Even more problematic is the dogbone mount underneath. If that one wears out you'll eventually crack the flex joint on the exhaust manifold.
*****
Ooooh...Do you have a video on that one? (he says crossing his fingers)
Christopher Gale I've removed it a hundred times for one job or another. Two 16mm bolts and 4 13mm bolts and it falls right out.
What size bolt is it on the older mount version?
I hope someone sees the question soon. I looked at a wrecked 06 MCS where the 2 16mm bolts are, on the front side, what are they mounted to?
subframe crash tube...?
FYI - '02 R53 - it was definitely not an E10, something bigger maybe an E13 or E15... It's definitely bigger than my largest e-torx, E11. Update: apologies! I failed to see you addressed this in the description! It's an E12. However a 10mm hex did the trick (I definitely would NOT try a 10mm 12point)
Question: are there torque values for some of these? I noted the 16mm for the u-shaped mount were pretty tight when loosening them.
I'm sure there are but after doing this for a while, you get a feel for the appropriate fastening force.
@@KurtisSaiyo the four 16mm bolts torque values is at 50 ftlbs
Is this the same for 2003 basic model
If you have a bad one of these, can the car potentially drive with a wobble, kinda like an axel problem? I ask because I replaced my axel and my alignment is perfect, and I still have wobble at low speeds and the wheel shakes at high speeds.
D-Nice Grogs probably not. Check the wheel.
Mod MINI
Other options are wheel hub bearings? Or balance, but the guy said he balanced them two times to make sure
Dumb question but is there a driver mount if so how u replace it?
mod mini question, could this mount be the cause of a 2 replacement of the axle? i replaced it not even 1 mile when the axle totally broke inside the boot
Jesse Duarte Probably not, most common case I've seen is a lowered(slammed) car. Other than that, no idea. Transmission problem!?
do you suggest the TSW mount to replace it?
Michael Pharr If you are driving the car on track or for autocross, sure. For street driving, you'll probably find it's not worth the extra NVH (noise, vibration, harshness).
Is the E12 bolt a stretch bolt? And can it be reused when fitting another mount?
Can be certainly reused if it's not too corroded. Sometimes they are a little yucky looking.
Mod MINI thanks. 👌
Oh dear, something went wrong when I tried this on my R53 yesterday. When I raised the engine off of the motor mount, then engine lurched backwards a few inches as soon as it cleared the top stud. I’ve paused my work, but am unable to remount the engine; the best I could do is lower it down onto the rear-top of the failed mount. Has this happened to anyone else? Any advice on how to safely get out of this jam?
Is this the only motor mount on the 05 R50?
+Mod MINI CAN I CHANGE MY R50 ENGINE TO R53
also, if i replace the right side (passenger side, true?) factory engine mount with an aftermarket mount like vibratechnics or torque solution, will that cause problems? will i need to replace all of the mounts? will it fit correctly?
+Luc Mickens It will cause more harshness/vibration. It won't affect the other mounts.
+Luc Mickens Id only do this if you dont mind the cockpit vibrations theyr quite harsh
can you use the 2004+ motor mount on a 2002? they are different but can you get it to work ?
You would have to replace the aluminum bracket as well.
Any idea where I could maybe get that bolt that is corroded ?
amzn.to/3m1zJB4
Is it okay if I put the metal hydraulic mount in my 03 mini? It has the full rubber mount, but I didn't know this when I ordered it.
welp figured out the answer is no lol, the engine mount bracket with the vac lines and four bolts is too short on the 03, obviously the other minis have a taller bracket to compensate for the size difference
You have to also replace the engine mount with a 2005-2006 mount. They are different height. Engine will sit too high.
whats the better mount to use? rubber or hydraulic or high performance one? thx
+djtoo7 There is no better, there is what you want from the mount. Less vibration: rubber or hydraulic. Faster response: high perf.
Where can you buy the torx bolt for under the hydraulic mount ?
@ Pelican Parts..E12 bolt..torque value is 50ftlbs