I have owned my 6 pack 4 speed 70 Bee for 39 years now and I still giggle like a little girl every time I put the throttle to the floor.😊 Never gets old!!! I like to call it Violent horsepower 😮
My buddies father went to an Estate sale in Illinois, and bought a manifold and carbs for a song, those carbs and that manifold, NO one believes me when I say the price. The people who sold it to him had no clue what they had. They had it priced for $500.00, he gave them a $1000.00 and legged it out of there. He felt major Ruege knowing what they are actually worth.
Yup!! If you haven’t yet. Have a trusted bud drive it while you drive something else. Have the friend stand in it at about a 15-20 mph roll while u drive next to the front fender with your window down
Nick, this exactly why most people opted for the 4 barrel, my buddy had a 69 Charger R/T 440 6 pack, he broke them down and rebuilt all 3 of them, he had a slew of parts on his back porch, he was like you with carbs, it was easy to him. When he bolted them back on and tuned it in, it screamed at WOT, it was the quickest car in our neiborhood, he had Cheater Slicks on the back, when he put it to the floor it slammed your head back in the seat, that motor sounds beautiful Nick.
Better keep the notes on that carb setup. Usually those 6 packs I have seen you dyno like to stumble on load in but that one loaded in smooth and never missed a beat.
I had a flex screwdriver back in the early 70’s when I owned a Challenger T/A 340 six pack worked sweet , my friend from snap on made it from a few different things
Hi Nick. Try doing what I did to my 6-pack Challenger back in the early 70's. Put a custom cut short small diameter flexible vacuum hose over the air/fuel adjusting valves and save yourself a bunch of time and agrivation when needing to adjust AF mixture.
I’ve never had the pleasure of owning a Mopar 6 BBL car, but I have owned quite a few Pontiac Tri-Powered cars, and I loved every one of them, not to much can match the sound of the outboard carbs opening up at full throttle. A close friend had a AAR Cuda, and another had a 6 Pac R/T Coronet, they were both very impressive. 👍 Multiple Carbs just sound better to me, just my opinion.
I remember working on a friends problematic choke on his 1966 Mustang. It was hard to start and had loss of power when warm. Turns out somebody flipped the choke spring in the housing and it was working in reverse. I pulled it out, flipped the spring and adjusted the choke. Worked like a champ.
A 6 pack on a 318 wow sure the 318’s are tough I know this I had a 72 Polaris with a 318 I beat that to death lost the timing chain replaced It had a valve job done and beat it again. It never gave up.
Wonderful to see a shiny 6-pack again. I had the 440 six pack on the 71 Superbee with auto trans. Who knew then they would be so valuable now. That hemi orange bee was a blast to drive for the 7 or so years I owned it. Thanks Nick for the visual reminder! Axios my friend
Nothing beats the sound of those carbs kicking in at full song with headphones on, well, that's not entirely true, being the one With your foot on the gas in a great ride opening up those carbs, now that is the best thing! George, love your sound track and when Nick was adjusting the outboard carb, I swear I heard some space in there, lol! And it's not the first time if my ears are to be believed. All around excellence! Y'all should be in line for an award for outstanding show on utube!😊👍 Thanks again guys!👍
Hello Bob Karakashian, wherever you are.... :-) Everyone should experience a Six Pak at least once in their lives - but yes, they're a stone PITA to mess with sometimes for sure. The base issue is that there's a LOT of cfm that happens all at once (compare it to a good-sized 4 barrel, for example) + the factory setup relies on a good vacuum signal to operate properly - which means no big camshaft that could take advantange of all that cfm. Fortunately, the factory stock setup works when right - and even more fortunately, there's people like Bob K out there who has spent decades perfecting (and racing) these setups for us, too. Good episode, Nick - and great videography George! - Ed on the Ridge
Great info. I just rebuilt my 440-6 and I have it running. It starts great and throttles up fine. Smells a little rich but I have not put on the exhaust yet. Still putting in a drivers side floor pan. And full trunk pan in my 70 GTX. I ran this six barrel 20 years ago and have since rebuilt it before the overhaul of the engine. I put longer idle needles in the rear carb. Makes it easier to adjust with a flexible screwdriver. I will remember that float trick when I get street time. Thanks Nick.
Sounds really nice. I had a flexible shaft screwdriver I used to adjust the rear carb. Forget where I got it. I made a small one myself by cutting the shaft of a small screwdriver and using a little section of windshield washer tubing connecting the 2 pieces to make it flexible, like a ujoint. Worked pretty well. I think the tube was 1/8" maybe. The size used for the Air Grabber hose. These cars run best with mild cams. I got 450-460 hp with a mild cam a little bit bigger than stock with tweaks and 'super' tuning it. If I recall, the stock jetting was 63/64. The repro carbs came 62. I usually went 65/66 for a mild build. The OE springs were 'Plain' in the end carbs too. I always liked to baseline with a known 'good' set of stock carbs. These carbs are so old now and been through so many hands, who knows what 'tricks' the previous owners/tuners have done. A lot of them are unfortunately irreversible. Might want to look at the PV too. Should be 6.5 which was stock and good in most cases except a radical cam. Supposed to 1/2-3/4 below idle vacuum. Without knowing how the engine was changed I'm sure the guy just rebuilt the carbs he was sent keeping all the parts 'as received' which most do. Tuning is outside the scope of rebuilders.
@@nickpanaritis4122 That's cool. Sounds like they're calibrated to OE in that regard. Some of those 'old' carbs have had the Kill Bleeds plugged with lead shot or the end plates drilled out. The 'norm' on those carbs were more lean from the factory, especially if you're running Ethanol; fuel now. Interesting video though, Thanks!
@@vincemajestyk9497 ...I have played with so many Six Packs in my life. You have no idea what kind of modifications racers have done on Six Packs in the past.
@@nickpanaritis4122 So true! I figured you knew the deal but was posting the info for other viewers. I don't even think they reproduce those carbs anymore but would rather start with a 'fresh' new set. Originally I think there were over 90 or more part numbers (OE) and towards the end (of Repro's) they only repro'd 12 or so different PNs, just calibration changes for the different PN's. I will tell you a funny story. I have the original carbs from my '71 440 6bbl. The end carbs have a 1969 Holley part number on the main body overstruck (a line stamped through it) and below it the 1971 part number stamped by Holley. The car was a 10/1970 production in Windsor.
I built one back in 82. I ported and matched the heads and intake with the DC template kit. Hooker headers. Crane .500 solid roller. As a young guy at 21yo, it was a monster that was real thrill machine. I put it in a 71 road runner with a 4 speed. I wish you would have shown hp numbers. My engine shop said I had at least 500. I really miss that car. Love your vids...
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE IT!!!! Nick just takes his time and lets his knowledge and experience lead the way, til he’s gotten what he was after!!!! True Mopar guru, and George, your video and commentary are SECOND TO NONE!!! Hope to build a 440 stroker with a 6-pak setup one day. Great week, guys!!!!
I think that snap-on used to make a right angle gear drive screwdriver specifically for adjusting the Idle mixture screws on the rear carb. Might have been designed for the old Stromberg 97s, I don't remember.
I can't remember exactly either, but they were made and sold by multiple companies. They were also designed to adjust the GM v8 points thru the side opening of the distributer cap from what I remember. I have one around here somewhere, but I haven't needed it to use it since the late 1980s.
Well well, I had a 1971 440 6 Pak Orange Cuda with a shaker hood with pins after I got home from Vietnam. Anti-pump up hydraulic lifters, mechanical linkage, 4 Speed cast iron tranny, 3.56 locker rear end. I was a wild child, I would shift at 7000 tach, 70 mph in low gear, 110, in second (ram air kicked in at about 100 mph) broke a motor mount power shifting racing a Corvette. Would go sideways easy, in fact I could swap ends in the middle of a side street. Would pull the front end off the ground. Raced a Boss 429 Mustang in downtown Ely, Nevada by the Cemetery at two in the morning, and we both left a cloud of burn out smoke, with smoke boiling in the windows. Hit about 120 just before the tracks.. The Boss lost.
Never drove a car with 3x2 barrel carbs but it must be a kick when all 3 open up. One big Holley is impressive for those who like carbs, but three Holleys are better. The air/fuel distribution has got to be better. I would like to see an AAR Cuda 340 on Nick's dyno. The factory rated those motors at 290 hp, and I find that had to believe. Nick tested a 340 w/4bbl at around 280 hp which is close to the 275 factory rating. Maybe the AAR 340 with the 3 Holleys could only muster 290? They must have vary mild cams then. Thanks for the videos Nick.
That overheard view of six barrels opening up and a river of fuel feeding that RB is the big crowd pleaser for me. The other side of the coin is you are able to visibly see your gas gauge moving towards 'E'.😊 Keep your wallet handy.
I remember that same feeling except that it was a stock 1973 Ford 400 in a full size LTD station wagon. Malaise era drivetrain in a car that weighs close to 5000 pounds so despite the cubic inches, it feels like a slug when trying to pass slowpokes on 2 lane back roads.
Always have fond memories of those wonderful times when I hit the throttle on my 1965 389ci Tri-Powered GTO and heard those three Rochester two barrels sing.
If I remember correctly the outboard carbs have metering plates instead of blocks. One could swap plates (Holley has a variety of metering plates) but there are aftermarket plates that use Holley jets to meter the fuel. One can't tell the difference visually. As I live between 4000 and 5900 feet I put in a lot of effort leaning out carbs. Next big purchase is a dual wideband A/F meter for my carbureted cars and trucks. Looked to me that there may have been 30 hp in getting the A/F corrected on that 440.
Love Dyno Mondays and beautiful 440 6 Pack engine . Nick your the Man on keeping these ol School Muscle going !!! Love being at Nick's Garage!!!!!!! Nicks 6 Pack Tuming Tips for Mopars !!! I can see the book now Nick ....Smile
excellent & a awesome vid your vids are A grade now a days from the start they were gr8, Never get tired of the dyno test's keep up the great work Nick & crew 👍🤟🤟
From 89-97 I had a 70 440 Six Pack RT/SE Challenger 4 speed, shaker, rear wing. It had the mechanical secondary Holleys. 4782 in the middle, 4783’s on the ends. MSD mechanical advance distributor and 6A box. Hooker 1 7/8 headers, 2 1/2 inch stainless exhaust with Flowmasters. Car was so awesome. Topped out at 145 mph one day on an empty 401. 3.54 Dana just perfect for all around driving.
Nick you the best as that 440 looks as perfect as it sounds and George your filming/editing is sure up there with the best but better, thanks till next time.
I have one in my 33 Plymouth! You set the choke speed when it's at operating temperature,for that motor it's 192dg not 180! All magnum motors used the same thermostat! Rich is better than lean, always! I've owned several 69 roadrunners!
Hint: Paint the intake manifold separately. Let it air dry for a day or two, then bake it in an oven at 250⁰F for an hour followed by another hour at 350⁰F. Allow the manifold to cool to air temperature, and, if you used engine enamel, the manifold paint will be impervious to gasoline.
howdy nick i'm a bike mechanic and have a hard time getting to mixture screws all the time ....i made a flexy screwdriver tool out of a m/bike speedo cable to get into awkward places , i rkn it'd work on the back carb of this .......good vid thanks man
Im all for old school.....but...... I like the electric chokes on old iron.... they open so much quicker and are less "problematic" then the old style chokes....
I have a scooter shop here in the Netherlands, and I also do classic cars. Both use carburetors. Ive always tuned them the old way by feel and ear and plug reading and it turned out near perfect, even on dyno sessions. Offcourse having an air fuel ratio meter makes things much easier. But they didn't have that stuff much to none back in the day. In Nicks case with the dyno yeah i would use it to 😅, saves time and more precise
Nick, here is a guide to tune six packs. It's not everything but gets you close enough. I'm not the author of this but I corrected a lot of spelling mistakes. Points of interest; you didn't build this engine so you don't know what cam is in it. Scroll three quarters of the way down the post; it mentions camshaft centerlines and timing settings. Where this engine chooses to run best given the timing settings could well indicate the cam that's in it without having to pull it apart to look. Also, the engine operating temperature for setting these carbs is given as spec. 195F. Quality cap rotor, wires and plugs that are not too hot or cold in heat range. Distributor vacuum port on carb disconnected and plugged. Make sure that your ignition advance curve is such that you can run at 15 - 18 degrees advance at idle. This is important. Car in neutral-auto or 4 speed, emergency brake set. A good quality vacuum gage is required, a digital tach if you have that as well. Connect vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum source. Outboards idle adjusting screws out 1/8 turn counter clockwise. THIS IS IMPORTANT! 64 jets in center carb. If you have new carbs(untouched) they will have 62 jets in the center carb Black springs in the secondary's You must know what power valve is in the center carb. Typically a 6.5 The slotted screw on top of the float adjuster, is just a lock screw, you can remove it for now, the 5/8" nut is the adjuster/needle seat nut, rotating it counter clockwise will raise fuel level in the bowl, clockwise will lower it Make small 1/2 turns & let the car run a 3 or more minutes so the fuel levels off check the fuel in the clear site window, at the bottom on the center carb and up to half the window the front and rear carbs, After you set the fuel level in all 3 carbs, reset the idle on the center carb Floats are adjusted properly. Center carb bottom of the sight hole. End carbs a very slight trickle out the sight hole. Starting point for Jets. center 65, front 78, rear 80. If the weather gets cold you might want to increase that to center 66, front 80, rear 82 Check the center carb and be sure to adjust the idle screw until the throttle blades are closed and the transfer slot is exposed no larger than a square. [carb would have to be off the car to see this] You only want about .040" of the transfer slots exposed below the throttle plates. If the idle screw is adjusted too high, you will be into the transition circuit, exposing too much of the vertical rectangular slot. Many times the idle screw is adjusted incorrectly to compensate for other issues. This puts the carb into the transition circuit and at that point you have no mixture control on the center carb. Start car, set idle to 1000 rpm and allow engine to reach operating temp. 195 degree thermostat required or fuel will puddle in the intake. THIS IS A MUST! If the car won’t idle: Is engine vacuum reading at least 2 hg higher than the power valve rating? This must be correct this before proceeding If ok proceed, if not correct power valve issue and proceed. Note some engines only pull 5 hg of vacuum Now set the initial timing to where it wants to be. Somewhere between 10-20 degrees BTDC. The engine will tell you by increasing vacuum and rpm at this point. In some applications the engine does not care, so set it to 12 degrees BTDC. Cams with 106-degree centerlines seem to like initial timing set at 15-22 BTDC. Cams with 108-degree centerlines seem to like initial timing set at 12-18 BTDC. Cams with 110-112 degree centerlines seem to like initial timing set at 8-12 BTDC. Center carb idle mixture screws out counter clockwise 1.5 turns. Re-Set the rpm for 900-See if you have "control" over the idle mixture screws on the center carb. Using a good vacuum gauge adjust mixture to highest reading of vacuum. If you do not have control over the idle mixture you have issues that need to be taken care of before proceeding. Issues such as poor intake sealing, the wrong PCV valve, a vacuum leak from the brake booster or other places, wrong power valve etc. Recheck idle rpm and set to 900 Drive car. Is the car rich? Jet down 2 steps until you find the min jet size. You will know when you are lean, no power. Most times you are over jetted.... Do not over jet! Now reset the initial timing again. Somewhere between 10-20 degrees BTDC. The engine will tell you by increasing vacuum and rpm at this point. In some applications the engine does not care, so set it to 15 degrees BTDC. Re-Set the rpm for 900-See if you have "control" over the idle mixture screws. Using a good vacuum gauge adjust mixture to highest reading of vacuum. Recheck idle rpm and set to 900. How do you know when you are "there”? You should be able to idle most cars down to 800-900 rpm in neutral and the response is crisp. You do not smell raw gas in the exhaust. The bottom of the intake is not soaked with fuel. The spark plugs are clean. The car starts runs and drives smoothly when cold. The car restarts immediately when hot without touching the throttle. When you whack the throttle from an idle the engine immediately returns to idle. Note: If your initial timing exceeds 12 degrees BTDC with a MP distributor typically you need to modify the advance curve so the total timing is not more than 34 degrees BTDC.
I believe the outboard carbs have metering plates instead of jets.I had a 340 Six Pack back in the 70s. Those are hard to modify. Especially if they were drilled out years ago?
@@NicksGarage If you let me hop on the passenger seat and take me for a ride , that would be nice! I am disabled and confined to a wheelchair due to a car accident in my youth. I have an extremely nice 71 Chevelle SS. That thing was a street beast!
Yep, and I beat a lot of sixpacks with my 426 Hemi, all in the tune, the setup and the driver, I sold my 68 Dodge Monaco with a 350 horse 440/4 bbl. to a friend and watch him beat a sixpack three time in a row with it and it was stock, go figure.
I guess you can just listen to this one too.... sure is nice to be able to do all the carb tuning on a dyno like this, so nice, really like your setup Nick.. good stuff
The float setting is a very critical adjustment. To much fuel coming in and it gets wasted. To little and it runs to lean. Your dyno is the best way to make that adjustment. Good one Nick.
I have owned my 6 pack 4 speed 70 Bee for 39 years now and I still giggle like a little girl every time I put the throttle to the floor.😊 Never gets old!!! I like to call it Violent horsepower 😮
Nahhh it's Romance Speed because we love it! Mopar Or No Car 😀
My buddies father went to an Estate sale in Illinois, and bought a manifold and carbs for a song, those carbs and that manifold, NO one believes me when I say the price. The people who sold it to him had no clue what they had. They had it priced for $500.00, he gave them a $1000.00 and legged it out of there. He felt major Ruege knowing what they are actually worth.
Yup!!
If you haven’t yet. Have a trusted bud drive it while you drive something else. Have the friend stand in it at about a 15-20 mph roll while u drive next to the front fender with your window down
Right on.!!!!! Enjoy your Bee !!!!
Nah, that's not a bad thing!
Nick, this exactly why most people opted for the 4 barrel, my buddy had a 69 Charger R/T 440 6 pack, he broke them down and rebuilt all 3 of them, he had a slew of parts on his back porch, he was like you with carbs, it was easy to him. When he bolted them back on and tuned it in, it screamed at WOT, it was the quickest car in our neiborhood, he had Cheater Slicks on the back, when he put it to the floor it slammed your head back in the seat, that motor sounds beautiful Nick.
Better keep the notes on that carb setup. Usually those 6 packs I have seen you dyno like to stumble on load in but that one loaded in smooth and never missed a beat.
Master Nick on the 6 Pack
I had a flex screwdriver back in the early 70’s when I owned a Challenger T/A 340 six pack worked sweet , my friend from snap on made it from a few different things
Who Loves You Baby !
We all love you Nick !
Your The Best !
Keep warm !
Thanks Peter!
Hi Nick. Try doing what I did to my 6-pack Challenger back in the early 70's. Put a custom cut short small diameter flexible vacuum hose over the air/fuel adjusting valves and save yourself a bunch of time and agrivation when needing to adjust AF mixture.
Good point.
Dana "60" Glass. Never get tired of hearing a 6 bbl (Six Pack) getting wound up over 5 grand. Another great dyno blast. Thank you Nick and George.
Right on!
I’ve never had the pleasure of owning a Mopar 6 BBL car, but I have owned quite a few Pontiac Tri-Powered cars, and I loved every one of them, not to much can match the sound of the outboard carbs opening up at full throttle. A close friend had a AAR Cuda, and another had a 6 Pac R/T Coronet, they were both very impressive. 👍 Multiple Carbs just sound better to me, just my opinion.
Nick I have a carb adjustment screw driver that is a spring shaft for carbs like this it's about thirty years old and works great
I remember working on a friends problematic choke on his 1966 Mustang. It was hard to start and had loss of power when warm. Turns out somebody flipped the choke spring in the housing and it was working in reverse. I pulled it out, flipped the spring and adjusted the choke. Worked like a champ.
The opening sequence was Oscar-worthy. Top notch!
I put a 6 pack on a 318, 13 second quarter miles in a 72 satellite with a mild cam j heads and 360 manifolds duel exahust and a 355 gear 3speed auto
A 6 pack on a 318 wow sure the 318’s are tough I know this I had a 72 Polaris with a 318 I beat that to death lost the timing chain replaced It had a valve job done and beat it again. It never gave up.
Wonderful to see a shiny 6-pack again. I had the 440 six pack on the 71 Superbee with auto trans. Who knew then they would be so valuable now. That hemi orange bee was a blast to drive for the 7 or so years I owned it. Thanks Nick for the visual reminder! Axios my friend
Great to see those triple deuces on a great sounding engine
👽Damn that cadmium looks good on those carbs.
Dr. Nick, that sound when the six barrel opens up is AWESOME!!, cheers.
Nothing beats the sound of those carbs kicking in at full song with headphones on, well, that's not entirely true, being the one With your foot on the gas in a great ride opening up those carbs, now that is the best thing!
George, love your sound track and when Nick was adjusting the outboard carb, I swear I heard some space in there, lol!
And it's not the first time if my ears are to be believed.
All around excellence!
Y'all should be in line for an award for outstanding show on utube!😊👍 Thanks again guys!👍
Another Action packed 6-pack adventure! Good stuff 👍
My 70 GTX was the mechanical Direct Connection setup. Nick got that vacuum just right. You the man Nick.
Hello Bob Karakashian, wherever you are.... :-)
Everyone should experience a Six Pak at least once in their lives - but yes, they're a stone PITA
to mess with sometimes for sure.
The base issue is that there's a LOT of cfm that happens all at once (compare it to a good-sized
4 barrel, for example) + the factory setup relies on a good vacuum signal to operate properly -
which means no big camshaft that could take advantange of all that cfm.
Fortunately, the factory stock setup works when right - and even more fortunately, there's people
like Bob K out there who has spent decades perfecting (and racing) these setups for us, too.
Good episode, Nick - and great videography George!
- Ed on the Ridge
Great to see you here, Ed. 👍
If you are also running a solid lifter cam, its one more thing to mess with.
Those carbs look great. All new plating the works
Yes they do. The Oake boys are a family team. Dad tears them down, one brother refinishes them, and another rebuilds.
Nick, your carburetor guy is a wizard! He did a beautiful job on those Holleys. Good carburetor shops are getting SCARCE.
Yes they are! It is a family business.. Dad takes the carbs apart, one brother rebuilds them, and another brother does the refinishing. Artistry!
For the record back in 1961 Ford offered a 390 with a dealer installed Tri power that was rated at 401 HP.
Thank you, thank you, another 440, yeah!
Welcome!
Great info. I just rebuilt my 440-6 and I have it running. It starts great and throttles up fine. Smells a little rich but I have not put on the exhaust yet. Still putting in a drivers side floor pan. And full trunk pan in my 70 GTX. I ran this six barrel 20 years ago and have since rebuilt it before the overhaul of the engine. I put longer idle needles in the rear carb. Makes it easier to adjust with a flexible screwdriver. I will remember that float trick when I get street time. Thanks Nick.
Only at Nick's. Thanks for bringing us along
Thanks for joining us.
I have owned many. The 440+6 still my favorite
Sounds really nice. I had a flexible shaft screwdriver I used to adjust the rear carb. Forget where I got it. I made a small one myself by cutting the shaft of a small screwdriver and using a little section of windshield washer tubing connecting the 2 pieces to make it flexible, like a ujoint. Worked pretty well. I think the tube was 1/8" maybe. The size used for the Air Grabber hose. These cars run best with mild cams. I got 450-460 hp with a mild cam a little bit bigger than stock with tweaks and 'super' tuning it.
If I recall, the stock jetting was 63/64. The repro carbs came 62. I usually went 65/66 for a mild build. The OE springs were 'Plain' in the end carbs too. I always liked to baseline with a known 'good' set of stock carbs. These carbs are so old now and been through so many hands, who knows what 'tricks' the previous owners/tuners have done. A lot of them are unfortunately irreversible. Might want to look at the PV too. Should be 6.5 which was stock and good in most cases except a radical cam. Supposed to 1/2-3/4 below idle vacuum. Without knowing how the engine was changed I'm sure the guy just rebuilt the carbs he was sent keeping all the parts 'as received' which most do. Tuning is outside the scope of rebuilders.
Plain silver springs, 63 jets, 6.5 PV. Is what we have in this set up.
@@nickpanaritis4122 That's cool. Sounds like they're calibrated to OE in that regard. Some of those 'old' carbs have had the Kill Bleeds plugged with lead shot or the end plates drilled out. The 'norm' on those carbs were more lean from the factory, especially if you're running Ethanol; fuel now. Interesting video though, Thanks!
@@vincemajestyk9497 ...I have played with so many Six Packs in my life. You have no idea what kind of modifications racers have done on Six Packs in the past.
@@nickpanaritis4122 So true! I figured you knew the deal but was posting the info for other viewers. I don't even think they reproduce those carbs anymore but would rather start with a 'fresh' new set. Originally I think there were over 90 or more part numbers (OE) and towards the end (of Repro's) they only repro'd 12 or so different PNs, just calibration changes for the different PN's.
I will tell you a funny story. I have the original carbs from my '71 440 6bbl. The end carbs have a 1969 Holley part number on the main body overstruck (a line stamped through it) and below it the 1971 part number stamped by Holley. The car was a 10/1970 production in Windsor.
I built one back in 82. I ported and matched the heads and intake with the DC template kit. Hooker headers. Crane .500 solid roller. As a young guy at 21yo, it was a monster that was real thrill machine. I put it in a 71 road runner with a 4 speed. I wish you would have shown hp numbers. My engine shop said I had at least 500. I really miss that car. Love your vids...
500 dyno gross in only 410 hp net
Nick is the best I have ever seen or heard of!
Thank you.
i love engines with external oil pumps , i wish they made the mopar small blocks like that .
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE IT!!!! Nick just takes his time and lets his knowledge and experience lead the way, til he’s gotten what he was after!!!! True Mopar guru, and George, your video and commentary are SECOND TO NONE!!! Hope to build a 440 stroker with a 6-pak setup one day. Great week, guys!!!!
I think that snap-on used to make a right angle gear drive screwdriver specifically for adjusting the Idle mixture screws on the rear carb. Might have been designed for the old Stromberg 97s, I don't remember.
I can't remember exactly either, but they were made and sold by multiple companies. They were also designed to adjust the GM v8 points thru the side opening of the distributer cap from what I remember. I have one around here somewhere, but I haven't needed it to use it since the late 1980s.
Well well, I had a 1971 440 6 Pak Orange Cuda with a shaker hood with pins after I got home from Vietnam. Anti-pump up hydraulic lifters, mechanical linkage, 4 Speed cast iron tranny, 3.56 locker rear end. I was a wild child, I would shift at 7000 tach, 70 mph in low gear, 110, in second (ram air kicked in at about 100 mph) broke a motor mount power shifting racing a Corvette. Would go sideways easy, in fact I could swap ends in the middle of a side street. Would pull the front end off the ground. Raced a Boss 429 Mustang in downtown Ely, Nevada by the Cemetery at two in the morning, and we both left a cloud of burn out smoke, with smoke boiling in the windows. Hit about 120 just before the tracks.. The Boss lost.
Never drove a car with 3x2 barrel carbs but it must be a kick when all 3 open up. One big Holley is impressive for those who like carbs, but three Holleys are better. The air/fuel distribution has got to be better. I would like to see an AAR Cuda 340 on Nick's dyno. The factory rated those motors at 290 hp, and I find that had to believe. Nick tested a 340 w/4bbl at around 280 hp which is close to the 275 factory rating. Maybe the AAR 340 with the 3 Holleys could only muster 290? They must have vary mild cams then. Thanks for the videos Nick.
Way before I was On UA-cam, I had tested a 340-6 AAR engine on the Dyno.. All original overhaul that made close to 310 HP.
Yeah they usually underrated the hp back then or gave the power at say, 5000rpm. If you reved em higher they'd actuall make more.
@@chriswalshe499 .I did rev it higher, and that was it. No more.
@@nickpanaritis4122 yeah I was thinking more of the 426 you did that was quoted 425 at 5000, but actually made 490 at 6100.
@@chriswalshe499 You are correct.
Your attention to details is off the charts!! Going to be another very happy customer.
Great Job Nick...That Six pk........can be a bugger! Glad it dialed in for you!
Here we go!!!
Right on! Pedal down.
Nick. There is something mesmerizing and beautiful about three deuces sitting on top of a 440! Bill from Linglestown Pennsylvania
Thanks Bill.
That overheard view of six barrels opening up and a river of fuel feeding that RB is the big crowd pleaser for me. The other side of the coin is you are able to visibly see your gas gauge moving towards 'E'.😊 Keep your wallet handy.
I remember that same feeling except that it was a stock 1973 Ford 400 in a full size LTD station wagon. Malaise era drivetrain in a car that weighs close to 5000 pounds so despite the cubic inches, it feels like a slug when trying to pass slowpokes on 2 lane back roads.
WOW George, beautiful intro !!!! Love the light effects and camera angles and voice over !!!! You Da Man !!!!
Thank you kindly Sarge.
Always have fond memories of those wonderful times when I hit the throttle on my 1965 389ci Tri-Powered GTO and heard those three Rochester two barrels sing.
If I remember correctly the outboard carbs have metering plates instead of blocks. One could swap plates (Holley has a variety of metering plates) but there are aftermarket plates that use Holley jets to meter the fuel. One can't tell the difference visually. As I live between 4000 and 5900 feet I put in a lot of effort leaning out carbs. Next big purchase is a dual wideband A/F meter for my carbureted cars and trucks. Looked to me that there may have been 30 hp in getting the A/F corrected on that 440.
Your video majestry is just superb!
Thank you very much!
You’re absolutely right NICK something very iconic about sixpack set ups. Awesome to look at and at wide-open throttle the sound is spectacular
Love Dyno Mondays and beautiful 440 6 Pack engine . Nick your the Man on keeping these ol School Muscle going !!! Love being at Nick's Garage!!!!!!! Nicks 6 Pack Tuming Tips for Mopars !!! I can see the book now Nick ....Smile
Man I would love to have three Holley's on my truck.
If that's the six pack you had redone and mounted to the peice of scrap wood, those people know what they are doing. Those carbs look better than new!
excellent & a awesome vid your vids are A grade now a days from the start they were gr8, Never get tired of the dyno test's keep up the great work Nick & crew 👍🤟🤟
Fantastic editing, narration and production!
Thank you kindly!
Sounds great Nick !😊
From 89-97 I had a 70 440 Six Pack RT/SE Challenger 4 speed, shaker, rear wing. It had the mechanical secondary Holleys. 4782 in the middle, 4783’s on the ends. MSD mechanical advance distributor and 6A box. Hooker 1 7/8 headers, 2 1/2 inch stainless exhaust with Flowmasters. Car was so awesome. Topped out at 145 mph one day on an empty 401. 3.54 Dana just perfect for all around driving.
Great show nice sound
Nick you the best as that 440 looks as perfect as it sounds and George your filming/editing is sure up there with the best but better, thanks till next time.
Thanks Blinkie! 👍
I have one in my 33 Plymouth!
You set the choke speed when it's at operating temperature,for that motor it's 192dg not 180! All magnum motors used the same thermostat!
Rich is better than lean, always!
I've owned several 69 roadrunners!
NIck doesn't cut any corners he knows how and does the job right the first time around. 👍
Great video, reflective cameo appearance by George. Have a great week men.
Same to you!
Evenin Mr George an Mr Nick! Have a Great week!!
Thanks, you too Pappy.
Hint: Paint the intake manifold separately. Let it air dry for a day or two, then bake it in an oven at 250⁰F for an hour followed by another hour at 350⁰F. Allow the manifold to cool to air temperature, and, if you used engine enamel, the manifold paint will be impervious to gasoline.
Awesome fine tuning good job Nick keep them coming and see you Friday
Thanks 👍
George the show wouldn’t be what it is as well without your narrating awesome job to both of you,
luv my 69 440 6 bbl , purple shaft , 3 500 cfm carbs , 40 years of fun fun so far . great Nick on showing and explaining as you always do
3 carbs ! Its gotta be good for ya ! Chur boy !
Three to get ready and here we GO!
Awesome content. I just would love to see more powerful builds. 550hp to 750hp range.
There are some big ones in the works. Stay tuned.
NICKS THE MOPAR MASTER THERE IS NO QUESTION OF THAT
Thank you, Stelthy!
Love the oil pressure on that one. Had 40 plus idle and less than 60 at revs
Thanks Nick --- My very next project for my 71 super bee that i had since 1973
If these 3 2bbl. ever sat and dried out, that's when you had your work cut out for ya....
howdy nick i'm a bike mechanic and have a hard time getting to mixture screws all the time ....i made a flexy screwdriver tool out of a m/bike speedo cable to get into awkward places , i rkn it'd work on the back carb of this .......good vid thanks man
Kalimera palikari from Adelaide Australia
All the best, Steve!
Im all for old school.....but...... I like the electric chokes on old iron.... they open so much quicker and are less "problematic" then the old style chokes....
What a gorgeous setup, thank you for sharing this!
Glad you like it!
WOW great camera work George
Nick's Garage Rocks!👍
A true Mopar Master . Thanks for sharing the content )
I have a scooter shop here in the Netherlands, and I also do classic cars. Both use carburetors. Ive always tuned them the old way by feel and ear and plug reading and it turned out near perfect, even on dyno sessions. Offcourse having an air fuel ratio meter makes things much easier. But they didn't have that stuff much to none back in the day.
In Nicks case with the dyno yeah i would use it to 😅, saves time and more precise
Interesting!
@@NicksGarage yeah 😄. But an air fuel ratio meter is always better. Usually on the street they like to run a tad richer then on a dyno
Nick, here is a guide to tune six packs. It's not everything but gets you close enough.
I'm not the author of this but I corrected a lot of spelling mistakes. Points of interest; you didn't build this engine so you don't know what cam is in it. Scroll three quarters of the way down the post; it mentions camshaft centerlines and timing settings. Where this engine chooses to run best given the timing settings could well indicate the cam that's in it without having to pull it apart to look.
Also, the engine operating temperature for setting these carbs is given as spec. 195F.
Quality cap rotor, wires and plugs that are not too hot or cold in heat range.
Distributor vacuum port on carb disconnected and plugged.
Make sure that your ignition advance curve is such that you can run at 15 - 18 degrees advance at idle. This is important.
Car in neutral-auto or 4 speed, emergency brake set.
A good quality vacuum gage is required, a digital tach if you have that as well.
Connect vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum source.
Outboards idle adjusting screws out 1/8 turn counter clockwise. THIS IS IMPORTANT!
64 jets in center carb.
If you have new carbs(untouched) they will have 62 jets in the center carb
Black springs in the secondary's
You must know what power valve is in the center carb. Typically a 6.5
The slotted screw on top of the float adjuster, is just a lock screw, you can remove it for now, the 5/8" nut is the adjuster/needle seat nut, rotating it counter clockwise will raise fuel level in the bowl, clockwise will lower it
Make small 1/2 turns & let the car run a 3 or more minutes so the fuel levels off
check the fuel in the clear site window, at the bottom on the center carb and up to half the window the front and rear carbs,
After you set the fuel level in all 3 carbs, reset the idle on the center carb
Floats are adjusted properly.
Center carb bottom of the sight hole.
End carbs a very slight trickle out the sight hole.
Starting point for Jets. center 65, front 78, rear 80. If the weather gets cold you might want to increase that to center 66, front 80, rear 82
Check the center carb and be sure to adjust the idle screw until the throttle blades are closed and the transfer slot is exposed no larger than a square. [carb would have to be off the car to see this]
You only want about .040" of the transfer slots exposed below the throttle plates.
If the idle screw is adjusted too high, you will be into the transition circuit, exposing too much of the vertical rectangular slot. Many times the idle screw is adjusted incorrectly to compensate for other issues. This puts the carb into the transition circuit and at that point you have no mixture control on the center carb.
Start car, set idle to 1000 rpm and allow engine to reach operating temp. 195 degree thermostat required or fuel will puddle in the intake. THIS IS A MUST!
If the car won’t idle: Is engine vacuum reading at least 2 hg higher than the power valve rating?
This must be correct this before proceeding If ok proceed, if not correct power valve issue and proceed. Note some engines only pull 5 hg of vacuum
Now set the initial timing to where it wants to be. Somewhere between 10-20 degrees BTDC. The engine will tell you by increasing vacuum and rpm at this point. In some applications the engine does not care, so set it to 12 degrees BTDC.
Cams with 106-degree centerlines seem to like initial timing set at 15-22 BTDC.
Cams with 108-degree centerlines seem to like initial timing set at 12-18 BTDC.
Cams with 110-112 degree centerlines seem to like initial timing set at 8-12 BTDC.
Center carb idle mixture screws out counter clockwise 1.5 turns.
Re-Set the rpm for 900-See if you have "control" over the idle mixture screws on the center carb. Using a good vacuum gauge adjust mixture to highest reading of vacuum. If you do not have control over the idle mixture you have issues that need to be taken care of before proceeding. Issues such as poor intake sealing, the wrong PCV valve, a vacuum leak from the brake booster or other places, wrong power valve etc.
Recheck idle rpm and set to 900
Drive car. Is the car rich? Jet down 2 steps until you find the min jet size. You will know when you are lean, no power.
Most times you are over jetted.... Do not over jet!
Now reset the initial timing again. Somewhere between 10-20 degrees BTDC. The engine will tell you by increasing vacuum and rpm at this point. In some applications the engine does not care, so set it to 15 degrees BTDC.
Re-Set the rpm for 900-See if you have "control" over the idle mixture screws. Using a good vacuum gauge adjust mixture to highest reading of vacuum.
Recheck idle rpm and set to 900.
How do you know when you are "there”?
You should be able to idle most cars down to 800-900 rpm in neutral and the response is crisp. You do not smell raw gas in the exhaust. The bottom of the intake is not soaked with fuel. The spark plugs are clean. The car starts runs and drives smoothly when cold. The car restarts immediately when hot without touching the throttle. When you whack the throttle from an idle the engine immediately returns to idle.
Note: If your initial timing exceeds 12 degrees BTDC with a MP distributor typically you need to modify the advance curve so the total timing is not more than 34 degrees BTDC.
Good Job guys . Very entertaining and informative
I believe the outboard carbs have metering plates instead of jets.I had a 340 Six Pack back in the 70s. Those are hard to modify. Especially if they were drilled out years ago?
I would love to see a comparison/challenge between 3 dueces vs 2 four barrels on the same engine.
That would be interesting.
Sounds awesome as always 👏👏
Thanks for listening.
I dream about driving one! Maybe 1 day...
You can do it!
@@NicksGarage If you let me hop on the passenger seat and take me for a ride , that would be nice! I am disabled and confined to a wheelchair due to a car accident in my youth. I have an extremely nice 71 Chevelle SS. That thing was a street beast!
Thanks for this video. Awesome job, Nick. As always.
I just built a 440 six pack for my 70 Challenger RT.
It's one of my favorite engines.
Right on!
Nick, I love you and your channel! But, you have to use 2 part paint, on these high end builds. 2 part paint, doesn't get removed by gas.
Need to find this 2 Part Paint. Thanks.
great video nick, one day would be great to see how you paint your engines...!!
Thanks for the idea!
I have to admit, I watched a 440-6Pack BEAT a 426 Hemi WITH Dual Carbs!!!!
It has been known to happen.
Yep, and I beat a lot of sixpacks with my 426 Hemi, all in the tune, the setup and the driver, I sold my 68 Dodge Monaco with a 350 horse 440/4 bbl. to a friend and watch him beat a sixpack three time in a row with it and it was stock, go figure.
The guy with the 426 Hemi was probably late on the tree, with a weak tune.
Great content thanks for sharing
Thank you too John.
Love the 440's with the six pack or six barrel. Sounds great. Thanks Nick and George!
Nick you're doing a good job thank you for the video
i miss working on carbs ..so simple and just a screwdriver to tune ..when you know what to look and listen for
yes nick you are a wizard when it comes to setting them up 🛠👍⚡️🇨🇦
I guess you can just listen to this one too.... sure is nice to be able to do all the carb tuning on a dyno like this, so nice, really like your setup Nick.. good stuff
Great stuff Nick and George . Cheers
You go Nick !
That's the plan!
Making Music with that 440-6 Nick 😍👍
Great camera work.
Thank you very much!
The float setting is a very critical adjustment. To much fuel coming in and it gets wasted. To little and it runs to lean. Your dyno is the best way to make that adjustment. Good one Nick.
Intro was amazing. Great video work.
Much appreciated!
Nice job Nick, nice video.
Glad you enjoyed it