I didn't think I was going to like those patched-in wedges on the front wishbones but I was wrong. They are beautiful. I would have thought you'd want to chuck the torque tube in a lathe and use a dial indicator to make sure it's straight and then done the same thing with the drive shaft after it shortened. Anyway this is a great project; very artistic and quite beautiful.
Coming along smoothly it looks like. Nice job on that torque tube. I think the wishbones will look sharp with a fishplate and your rivets . Looking forward to what comes next.
Great video Jordan! Love the mig and tig on the wishbones. Great information on blending techniques! Those are so strong they don’t need fishplates. Well done 👍
Very beautiful build. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friends. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friends. Fab On. Weld On. Keep making. God bless.
Great job. On the front radius arms shortening or lengthening them won’t change the caster. To do that you need to make the rear mounts with adjustment holes so that you can move the rear of the rods up or down to change the caster angle. Adjusting the length will only change the distance between the front and rear wheels. Sorry for the long comment from Colorado.
Please look at the geometry of your split rear wishbones. In the side view, at 20:00...your axle will pivot from the torque tube ball joint. Your radius rod forward pivot points under the frame are further from the axle and it will bind, probably break your radius rod mounts sooner or later, and in the meantime will restrict travel. Not sure how much suspension travel you are expecting, but also consider roll. Also consider roll on your front tie rod clearance between the frame and radius rods...doesn't look like much roll will be possible before the tie rod will hit one or the other. Loving the build..cheers from Colorado
Those Torque Tubes , make good Megaphones , out of Header Pipes on Track Roadsters , have seen them with Slash Cuts , Turn Outs and straight cuts , they all look cool , hide Mufflers inside if Noise is a issue !
Really enjoy watching you're videos...you're work is always such a high standard..such a lovley looking build..cheers for sharing.Steve,Helene and Fred the dog
You have a welder so just weld the band saw blade back together. After all that is the way its made. I had a new blade brake at the weld. It pissed me off so I welded it back together with my mig. Still going strong and is one of the most satisfying repairs I have ever made.
Looking good the silicon bronze is a filler rod.. its not really for strength purposes its for a nicer finish. I don't think you need to add those fish plates the little gusset is plenty enough I don't think its necessary. Its plenty strong enough as far as I'm concerned. Those wishbones look good though. nice job Jordan.
I've built lots of cars and you should have layed out the letter I on the floor laying out the wheel base and plumb bobed the center of the wheels from the centerline of the frame before you weld on the radius rods to make sure its all square etc.
To shorten the tapered torque tube all you had to do was cut out the amount you needed to and allowing for the thickness of a 12 mm piece of plate cut into a ring placed between the two parts of the tube and just weld the cut ends of the tube to either side of the plate. The installation is very much like using an adapter plate between an engine and a transmission and it is a lot easier to do.
Great project. I generally hate it when a viewer tells the craftsman how to do their project. But I have a question on the torque tube modifiction. Wouldn't it have been easier and more aesthetically pleasing if you remade the piece that bolts up to the rearend, (plasma cutter) then shortened the tube by cutting off some of the big end, and then welding on the piece that bolts up to the rearend? The torque tube would be one continuous taper. Just a thought. Looking forward to more outstanding fabrication.
Definitely agree, if it was a car being register for the road. I would but this will be playing in the dry lakes so I’m comfortable with how it will look as no one but myself will see it
killing it brother! just curious why you didn't just use the center section of the driveshaft instead of using two pieces. cut the flange off the rear and cut the front right where it necks up. doesn't really matter either way, you still did a killer job.
Is there going to be a clearence issue with tierod andframe.ive seen dropped tie rods to clear frame .even cut a hole in oil pan ran a tube from import to seal pan.then ran tie rod through tube.300 ford six in 64 stang 5 spd.ran like a big block.love your work.
Love your work Your transmission bracket ad 10 mm length right ? Don't that move the ball 10 mm back ? This will make it not center of the driveshaft koppler so the driveshaft or the output have to slide during suspension travel Keep upp The Good work!
I try to do everything myself on my Riley Brooklands replica but when it came to shortening the torque tube I went to a professional. On the Riley the tube is a very solid push fit into the rear half of the diff housing which then bolts on. I was able to remove the original and then shorten it but to get it to be a press fit back in it needed machining and you need a BIG lathe for that. The drive shaft also needed shortening and then re-splining on the ends. The front spline fits into a u-joint like yours. The rear goes into a muff coupling that mates to a similar spline on the diff pinion gear. The muff coupling allows you to adjust the pinion mesh with the crown wheel. On the A how does the rear spring handle the axle rotation due to the torque tube? Does it just twist? On the Riley the axle sits on top of the spring in clamps that hold the axle but allow it to rotate.
To lubricate your spring leaves they used a mixture of graphite and oil between the leaves so the springs can flex easily without friction and squeaking.
I'm curious why it's better to have longer bones on the front? In the rear I understand the lift arm effect with longer bones but don't necessarily see the benefit in the front?
I started watching your videos from a heads up by Japhands, definitely appreciate what you are doing. But now I am confused…. I originally thought you were building a race car for an event that is time sensitive. Now I think that was just an excuse to build a work of art in an area that is from an era in the past. Your ability to modify and create is evident, skill set top notch. Could you please hurry up? You are scratchinge an itch on my curiosity synapses that is making me crazier than normal! With the weight reduction from stock, I am thinking that the springs will be far too stiff- wouldn’t a reduction of a couple of leaves in the pack be advantageous to soften the ride? Seems like now, before a lot of set up is done would be a time to contemplate……….
There l thought you were going to bbq your meal😆😆😆 An after thought, I know nothing about model A brakes , so my question is why didn't you just separate the brake drum from the wheel hub , or at least cut the drum around the hub??? Also, wouldn't you need to shorten that clamp thing that goes up near the gearbox by 10mm??? Other than that, great work as always 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great job, certainly be strong enough, it seems like you prefer tig welding to mig welding, is there any reason? also do you use Argon mix for both tig and mig? In America they use CO2, just wondering I'm in South Australia, all the best to you and your loved ones
The adjustment of the wishbone links just sets the axel square with the axis of the frame. I don't see how it affects the caster angle. The angle of the front axel top-to-bottom sets the caster angle. The angle of the axis of the king pins determines the caster.
Your fishplate would look nice but do you think you're ahead in this build or behind. I'm worried that your running out of time. Just me. They would look great and blend in to the style. Build on. I want to see you race and not make the deadline. Enjoy
Great Sunday morning watching with a coffee😊
Looking Good, nice job..
Very nice. You like our friend Karl Fisher, do awesome work. You inspire me to keep up keeping on.
I am loving watching this build come together, it's interesting to see the thought process behind the build. Can't wait to see the body being made.
Body time this week!
Jordan really nice job on the Front and Rear Wishbones Looking great
Thank you John!
You'll have to silicon bronze your fish plates on. Great build, thanks for bringing us along.
Superb build 👍👌Cheers Chris
Good decision on the spring leaves with the rounding. They look cool.
Just a subtle change
You inspired me to get off my ass and do something .dude what a beautiful job.
Hope you’re out in the shop getting stuff done!
Heck yeah, no time like the present. Good luck...
I didn't think I was going to like those patched-in wedges on the front wishbones but I was wrong. They are beautiful. I would have thought you'd want to chuck the torque tube in a lathe and use a dial indicator to make sure it's straight and then done the same thing with the drive shaft after it shortened. Anyway this is a great project; very artistic and quite beautiful.
Very nice work Jordan, sometimes the sun shines on you 👊🏻
Thank you Mike, hope it keeps shining!
Really nice work. Cool fab work going on. Can’t wait to see the body come together and finally take shape.
This week!
I love watching your videos. Bennettes Custom, Make it Kustom and Bad Chad have, all have a unique style that I really enjoy. Thanks
I love your attention to detail.
I've spent most of my life as a welder. But I'm learning new things by watching others. Love what you did with the wishbones.
Coming along smoothly it looks like. Nice job on that torque tube. I think the wishbones will look sharp with a fishplate and your rivets . Looking forward to what comes next.
Great video Jordan! Love the mig and tig on the wishbones. Great information on blending techniques! Those are so strong they don’t need fishplates. Well done 👍
Learning from the best! Miss you guys a ton
More excellent work Jordan, I guess the next step is to start shaping that body shell.👍
You bet, this week I’ll start to get the body mocked up and start sand bending the pipes
Really nice job on those bones! Looking forward to the next vid!!!
Very beautiful build. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friends. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friends. Fab On. Weld On. Keep making. God bless.
Great job. On the front radius arms shortening or lengthening them won’t change the caster. To do that you need to make the rear mounts with adjustment holes so that you can move the rear of the rods up or down to change the caster angle. Adjusting the length will only change the distance between the front and rear wheels. Sorry for the long comment from Colorado.
Yes you’re right, sometimes I say things on here that are definitely not the right answer haha. But your right about that
Really digging your build! Great inspiration for anyone and appreciate your attention to the little details, keep up awesome!
Oh, BTW, this coming from northern michigan, USA!
Fantastic work as usual! Thanks for another great video!
Please look at the geometry of your split rear wishbones. In the side view, at 20:00...your axle will pivot from the torque tube ball joint. Your radius rod forward pivot points under the frame are further from the axle and it will bind, probably break your radius rod mounts sooner or later, and in the meantime will restrict travel. Not sure how much suspension travel you are expecting, but also consider roll. Also consider roll on your front tie rod clearance between the frame and radius rods...doesn't look like much roll will be possible before the tie rod will hit one or the other. Loving the build..cheers from Colorado
Yes you’re right. They will actually get mounted into the stock location on the torque tube and mounts of the axle I didn’t want it to bind as stated.
great episode and some amazing fabrication - inspirational as always thank you.
Awesome episode, great to see how this is coming together.good indepth steps to see how its done.
Keep up the great work!.
Very clean precise work! Well done.
Thank you!
Those Torque Tubes , make good Megaphones , out of Header Pipes on Track Roadsters , have seen them with Slash Cuts , Turn Outs and straight cuts , they all look cool , hide Mufflers inside if Noise is a issue !
Most definitely, I’ve had them on a few!
Really enjoy watching you're videos...you're work is always such a high standard..such a lovley looking build..cheers for sharing.Steve,Helene and Fred the dog
You have a welder so just weld the band saw blade back together. After all that is the way its made. I had a new blade brake at the weld. It pissed me off so I welded it back together with my mig. Still going strong and is one of the most satisfying repairs I have ever made.
Looking good the silicon bronze is a filler rod.. its not really for strength purposes its for a nicer finish. I don't think you need to add those fish plates the little gusset is plenty enough I don't think its necessary. Its plenty strong enough as far as I'm concerned. Those wishbones look good though. nice job Jordan.
Yeah definitely just use the bronze as a filler, works great for blending, I think you’re right though, plenty strong
Silicon bronze is actually pretty strong.
really enjoying this series, what's the music on the soundtrack?
Another great video!
Thank you Rob
good information as you build much appreciated!
Great work!
I've built lots of cars and you should have layed out the letter I on the floor laying out the wheel base and plumb bobed the center of the wheels from the centerline of the frame before you weld on the radius rods to make sure its all square etc.
I didn’t really show but that was all done and used a laser and plumb bob. Didn’t want this dogging down the road haha!
To shorten the tapered torque tube all you had to do was cut out the amount you needed to and allowing for the thickness of a 12 mm piece of plate cut into a ring placed between the two parts of the tube and just weld the cut ends of the tube to either side of the plate. The installation is very much like using an adapter plate between an engine and a transmission and it is a lot easier to do.
Yeah that’s another option most definitely.
Craft!! I love it!
Great project. I generally hate it when a viewer tells the craftsman how to do their project. But I have a question on the torque tube modifiction. Wouldn't it have been easier and more aesthetically pleasing if you remade the piece that bolts up to the rearend, (plasma cutter) then shortened the tube by cutting off some of the big end, and then welding on the piece that bolts up to the rearend? The torque tube would be one continuous taper.
Just a thought. Looking forward to more outstanding fabrication.
Definitely agree, if it was a car being register for the road. I would but this will be playing in the dry lakes so I’m comfortable with how it will look as no one but myself will see it
killing it brother! just curious why you didn't just use the center section of the driveshaft instead of using two pieces. cut the flange off the rear and cut the front right where it necks up. doesn't really matter either way, you still did a killer job.
Crossed my mind halfway through! Shes’ll do the job! Haha
@@bennettscustomsco haha Yeah it happens but like you said it’ll do just fine
Hey, what alot of work, looks great, enjoyed the video, wondering how many days left to get the car finished....Ralph
I'm worried also. Beautiful fancy touches but the deadline is approaching.
About 60 days left! She’s tight but I will get the job done.
Is there going to be a clearence issue with tierod andframe.ive seen dropped tie rods to clear frame .even cut a hole in oil pan ran a tube from import to seal pan.then ran tie rod through tube.300 ford six in 64 stang 5 spd.ran like a big block.love your work.
Love your work
Your transmission bracket ad 10 mm length right ? Don't that move the ball 10 mm back ?
This will make it not center of the driveshaft koppler so the driveshaft or the output have to slide during suspension travel
Keep upp The Good work!
You’re right! I’ve taken 10mm away from the ball coupler to make sure it sits back
Looks like a lot of spring for a little car. Maybe take out some leaves? But maybe OK as is for intended use?
Surprisingly it just about perfect, I pulled a few out but seems good so far
I try to do everything myself on my Riley Brooklands replica but when it came to shortening the torque tube I went to a professional. On the Riley the tube is a very solid push fit into the rear half of the diff housing which then bolts on. I was able to remove the original and then shorten it but to get it to be a press fit back in it needed machining and you need a BIG lathe for that. The drive shaft also needed shortening and then re-splining on the ends. The front spline fits into a u-joint like yours. The rear goes into a muff coupling that mates to a similar spline on the diff pinion gear. The muff coupling allows you to adjust the pinion mesh with the crown wheel. On the A how does the rear spring handle the axle rotation due to the torque tube? Does it just twist? On the Riley the axle sits on top of the spring in clamps that hold the axle but allow it to rotate.
To lubricate your spring leaves they used a mixture of graphite and oil between the leaves so the springs can flex easily without friction and squeaking.
Leather gaiters on the leaf springs would look the part.
I think you’re right!
beautiful fab on. weld on. keep making. god bless.
I'm curious why it's better to have longer bones on the front? In the rear I understand the lift arm effect with longer bones but don't necessarily see the benefit in the front?
I started watching your videos from a heads up by Japhands, definitely appreciate what you are doing. But now I am confused…. I originally thought you were building a race car for an event that is time sensitive. Now I think that was just an excuse to build a work of art in an area that is from an era in the past. Your ability to modify and create is evident, skill set top notch. Could you please hurry up? You are scratchinge an itch on my curiosity synapses that is making me crazier than normal! With the weight reduction from stock, I am thinking that the springs will be far too stiff- wouldn’t a reduction of a couple of leaves in the pack be advantageous to soften the ride? Seems like now, before a lot of set up is done would be a time to contemplate……….
Hahaha thank you kindly! Means a lot- the springs have already had some removed, and will see once’s it’s all together with all the weight.
are you puting dampners on your suspension??
Are u running model A wheels ?
Yeah 21” 5.25 rears 4.00 fronts
There l thought you were going to bbq your meal😆😆😆
An after thought, I know nothing about model A brakes , so my question is why didn't you just separate the brake drum from the wheel hub , or at least cut the drum around the hub???
Also, wouldn't you need to shorten that clamp thing that goes up near the gearbox by 10mm???
Other than that, great work as always 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great job, certainly be strong enough, it seems like you prefer tig welding to mig welding, is there any reason? also do you use Argon mix for both tig and mig? In America they use CO2, just wondering I'm in South Australia, all the best to you and your loved ones
Great work Jordan, looking sweet mate. I was just wondering what is the name of the musician you have playing during the vid ?
The adjustment of the wishbone links just sets the axel square with the axis of the frame. I don't see how it affects the caster angle. The angle of the front axel top-to-bottom sets the caster angle. The angle of the axis of the king pins determines the caster.
Yeah your exactly right.
👍👍😎👍👍
You could have cut it close to the front behind the trailing arm mount and moved it forward after cutting off the excess in the middle
legited
Your fishplate would look nice but do you think you're ahead in this build or behind. I'm worried that your running out of time. Just me. They would look great and blend in to the style. Build on. I want to see you race and not make the deadline. Enjoy
Time is definitely not on my side with this one but I’ve finished more in less time, I’m confident it will be ready to fly!
Looking Good.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸