Thank you for making this great instructional video , I’m 76 and not done with doing anything on my own, but I do need a little help. This is just what I need to safely wire a switch to a light then connect to a outlet. Sometimes a takes a few reviews to make it all sink in to this old head, thanks, Chuck
One of the best gentlemen to watch, hands down, about the ins and outs of wiring outlets and switches correctly. The delivery, instruction, and information provided is very detailed and extremely easy to follow. Great job Chris!
I watched demonstration 10x to change a closet light switch to a switch/outlet. The special attention to wiring and wagos made my layperson project perfect! THANK YOU!
Thank you Chris! I was able to watch your video with my new switch/receptacle combo in my hand. I followed along with the video and because of your excellent instructions I will be now be able to install this type of switch too. I watched a previous video about adding an outlet to an existing one. I installed one per your directions, and it works perfectly. Senior ladies can do these types of things with the help of a great instructor like you! Thank you, thank you! ❤
Way to go! Really. Great instructions. No silliness or rap music or multiple camera angles (oh, my my my my how I hope co tent providers STOP doing multiple camera angles… it was never effective.) Hats 🎩 off to you. Very well done!
In the past I had replaced a switch with a switch and a tamper-resistant outlet. So, planning to do it again was a no brainer. That was until I started to remove the switch only to discover there were three black wires and one ground attached to the switch. One Romex wire coming into the electric box from the bottom and two going out the top! Thats when I go to UA-cam and eventually found Chris. This is a single gang box. However, to my surprise, it turned out to be the power source for three other switches. Chris's explanation was not for my situation but the way he described what had to be done to provide continual pawer to the outlet and light was all I needed. In the end I ran one pigtail to the neutral connection. Main power supply to the black screw for the outlet. Black wire to the brass crew for the ceiling light. Also used the remaining black screw for the power source to the three switches, instead of a pigtail. Of course, a wire to the ground. They all work, thanks to Chris's help. 😀
Any way you would be willing to help with a issue I have? I have replaced all outlets and switches in my basement but I have one outlet/Switch that I have two wire that I don’t know where they go. I hate to hire an electrician for two wires. Thanks
Thank you so much! I added an overhead switched light, and now i know how to wire the exiting switched outlet with the new overhead light. Saved me a lot of money! Great videos
Not bad for an IT guy! Super helpful Chris! Long time it’s been since the Merck days!! Was trying to search for a simple video and low and behold, there you were!! Hope you are doing well!!
Hey sir, great video. Im an engineer by trade so of course im useless with this stuff and was trying to replace a light switch with a combo switch/outlet in storage room. She's all wired up and working now thanks to this video. Subbed for future learning.
Thanks for the great video dad, working on installing outdoor permanent Christmas lights. I was stuck on what location to get power from, so I’m going to use the front door light and add a plug from it.
Thanks for your very detailed videos. What if i want to replace my existing switch (light only) with a switch and electric outlet in the same box (second example in this video), but i dont have a ground wire in the box? Also, what seems to be the neutral wire is just running in the box but not currently connected to the switch?
Even if you don’t have a ground wire, you may have a grounded metal box. But if you don’t, you should consider upgrading your wiring. You need a neutral to add an outlet. I don’t have a video on how to identify a neutral but I’m sure you can find one. Don’t always assume a white wire is neutral.
Very good. I would like to see the small but important details that nobody ever shows on these videos, like stripping the wire ends, making the loop in your pigtail and tightening the screw on it, tugging the wires to make sure they are tight, and the proper way to fold and tuck all those wire connections into the box and close it up.
I have two outlets in my garage. All on the wall connected to the house. I’m really needing more outlets throughout the garage. Hopefully this helps me add some fixtures!! Thanks for the video!!
Excellent instructions. I was wondering if a switch I have could be the cause of a gfci (connected to it) receptacle tripping. The gfci only has line wires coming in and they come from the switch. The gfci malfunction may have another cause like the metal box it was in not having the ground wire connected to it as it was on the gfci green screw only. The light switch has a light that shows it is working fine. But for some reason I thought it could have faulty wires going to the gfci receptacle. Thanks
Great informative video. Question: How do you go about adding an outlet to a light switch with individual light and ceiling fan on/off switch that run off the ceiling fan. I would assume the same way except choosing either switch using the hot wire.
Do you have a video of installing an outdoor motion sensor for lighting with an override switch to turn on the light directly? How would you need to wire this if you had a 3 way already installed?
I am wanting to do exactly what you have done , add a combination switch and outlet to a pre existing wall outlet. I though only see two hots and a ground bit no white neutral wires. how do I deal with this ? . Thank you
Thanks! So if I only have one line (black,white & ground) in my attic going to a light I will not be able to install an outlet off it and still keep the light? I'm trying to add an outlet to my existing atttic light for a pre amplifier to my new tv antenna.
That won’t work because the hot is switched. You need a constant hot. I show how to find a power source in an attic in this video when I installed 3 ceiling fans: ua-cam.com/video/WljevriVVF4/v-deo.html
Excellent video. I followed your steps of method 1. The outlet tester showed me that I connected the wires correctly to the new outlet. However, I noticed later that the charger (for a Dyson vacuum) plugged into the new outlet was getting hot. I then tested the new outlet with an LED lamp , it was flickering and while that was flickering, the outlet tester plugged into the other receptacle of the same new outlet did not show any lights. What could be the reason? I was struggling with the wire nuts connecting 3 wires per nut in the light switch box. I used Romex 12 gauge. Could it be insufficient connections in the wire nuts? Maybe wargo connectors are better for my purpose?
This video features lights similar to the Halo Quicklink: ua-cam.com/video/x4TooPn0hd8/v-deo.html Add an outlet to which box? You can add an outlet wherever you have a hot, neutral and ground.
Thank you for your clear video presentation. I happened to come here because I wanted to see if it was possible to wire an outlet where top is always hot and bottom goes off a switch when the power feed comes through the switch? As it is now both outlets are hot, top and bottom. My outlet is under my sink and works off a switch for both upper and lower outlets. I just bought a faucet that needs constant power and wanted to use that outlet, but it isn’t hot when garbage disposal is not in use. The switch activates it. I looked at wire in outlet and there are just two, white and black. Switch has been fed power to it by another wire (from switch) where I cannot accurately see what was done but it did get power at that source. (I took a photo of it) My question to you is can you still make one half of outlet hot all the time with wiring that is already there? If so how would you make the connections? (My outlet is end of run.) only two wires come into it from switch, a white and black with ground.
Sorry it’s not going to work for you because you only have a single hot wire and it’s switched. You’d need to replace that wire coming from the switch with 3-conductor wire (which has two hots).
Amazing video! But I have a question, what can be done if that is the case with the neutral being the hot to the fixture? Is there a way around that or because the white wire isn’t actually a neutral there’s no way to add an outlet from that switch?
I want to put an outlet under the kitchen counter to power the dishwasher and a new garbage disposal. The disposal will also need a switch that I want to add to an existing box with a switch for a ceiling light. Also thinking I could add a double switch in the existing light switch box. Thoughts?
You should check your local electric code. The dishwasher may need a dedicated circuit. You can use a doubles switch for the disposal, or change the box to 2-gang and add a switch.
Great video, very easy to follow along. One question, what if the switch was a 3-way light switch, can I still wire an outlet that is always hot like you show in the first example? Thank you!
Possibly. You need constant hot, neutral and ground to run an outlet. You need to open the switch and see if you have those things. TEST, don’t assume: if the white wire is connected to the switch, it’s NOT a neutral.
So I’m trying to take power from the light switch in the attic and I used the first method to do just that. However I wanted to run some items off a power outlet in the attic and had not considered your second method. I was able to use both methods for one project.
Thank you for all of your videos. I’d like to make a test board like you have to mock up and test before trying to do it for real. Is it just the electrical boxes screwed into the board and a plug to provide power from a wall outlet?
Such a helpful video - very clear and concise! I just installed a new outlet by drawing power from a Lutron smart switch rather than a single pole as used in the example video. Everything works great, outlet tester shows correct lights, Lutron smart switch turns on and off the ceiling lights without affecting power to the outlet. However, if I have something plugged into the outlet (like my Dyson battery) and the ceiling light is turned off, it flickers on and off without over and over until I turn the lights back on. Would you have an idea of how to fix that? Maybe it’s not possible for draw power from a smart switch to power an always hot outlet? Would appreciate any suggestions!
Will this work on something like a clothes iron? Or will that pull too many amps? My last house had all the lights on a floor together on one breaker switch, i assume a light breaker would be low amps, and it might trip using an iron. Any idea?
Thanks for the video. If I want to do this to attic outlet, can and should I do a GFCI outlet in case the fan I am powering overheats and shorts out, which I hope would never happen? Can I also just buy a bigger blue box to house all the wires since it’s just a box in the attic? Or can I add another blue box before the switch that would split the wire before coming into the switch so after splitting from the new blue split box one set of wires goes to the switch and other set goes to the new outlet? (Sorry if I have the terminology wrong. )
You don’t ever need a GFCI outlet in an attic (it doesn’t detect shorts anyway). But I don’t think you should use an outlet at all. If you’re installing an attic ventilation fan or whole-house fan, they should be hardwired.
@@handydadtv I want an outlet and not hard wired bc I want to plug the fan into a smart wifi outlet in so I can turn on the fan remotely using my phone when I want an increase in airflow to certain rooms. Basically a few guest rooms my 4 ton Lennox central HVAC unit doesn’t cool well enough because the foil ducts are too narrow, so I was thinking of putting a fan in the duct to boost and pull / push more cold air into those rooms when needed. A wifi outlet would let me use my phone to turn it on when needed. (I explored redoing the duct work but got a quote of like $10k. )
Can I also just buy a bigger blue box to house all the wires since it’s just a box in the attic? Or can I add another blue box before the switch that would split the wire before coming into the switch so after splitting from the new blue split box one set of wires goes to the switch and other set goes to the new outlet? (Sorry if I have the terminology wrong. )
@wstt4 Ok you’re installing duct fans. You can do what you want, but it would be best to have them thermostatically controlled so you don’t need to remember to turn them on and off.
I was looking for a tutorial on how to connect a wall outlet that's in a daisy chain using a switch control for a single plug in the outlet. I have white, black, red, and ground. Not sure what all to connect to where and using a pigtail.
So would this be the same concept for three way switches? Like one 3-way switch to lights and outlets in-between and then the other end is a 3-way switch. Is it best to use this same principle?
Chris, in your video at the 1:10 mark I have a switch that connected exactly like that, I'm trying to add a GFCI outlet from the switch, I have 2 wires(plus ground ) running to the switch box from the new outlet box. I have the black and white wires connected to the LINE side on GFCI outlet. But I can not seem to get the outlet to work even pressed in the reset and test button once it's wired. I have the white wire (which is probably supposed to be black)connected to the gold screw and the black always hot wire pigtailed to the black wire from the outlet. The white neutral is capped off. Can you shed some 'light' as to why the outlet is not working?? ( Note: the switch still works and the tester is beeping on the outlet)
Awesome video helped tremendously just moved into a new house and both outlets were non functional because they were wired wrong , and one was on a switch and the other was at the end of the circuit with non functional wires attached , finding the load and the neutral helped , and then my high school electric class kicked in and i daisy chained the outlet at the end of the circuit and everything worked out . Thanks
@handydadtv how would you wire it if you wanted the switch to control the outlet on the combo outlet? Is this correct: On the non-tabbed side, line/hot goes to brass screw. Neutral to silver screw and to neutral of 2nd outlet. Tabbed side, hot of the switch is wired to 2nd outlet hot. all grounds to green? Is that correct?
@@handydadtv thank you. I appreciate you getting back to me. My question, was how to wire a combo, as you did in the video, and a outlet in a 2 gang for a total of 3 outlets in a 2 gang box, all controlled by the on off switch. Sorry if my question wasnt clear. Merry Christmas!
Could you clarify the front half of your video? If I have the set up with only 2 wires in a switch box that controls a light, does that mean I will be unable to to run an outlet without having to turn the switch on? Because there is no power going to to the light switch?
Most modern homes use separate circuits for switches and receptacles and the switches, typically for lights, are on 15 amp circuits. Now you're adding a receptacle to a lighting or other low power anticipated circuit. It's not necessarily a bad thing, as many receptacles can be on 15 amp circuits. If you're adding a receptacle to power a room heater for example you should have a 20 amp circuit.
Every *correctly* installed 15 amp circuit, whether intended for lights or for outlets, has the exact same load capacity rating of 1800 to 2000 watts. A lighting circuit can have a multiple outlets on it, as long as the total load at any given time does not exceed 1800w. Space heaters draw a maximum of 1500w and are safe to use on 15a circuits, with a couple hundred watts to spare for lights, TV etc.
Great explanation. One question. If running from a switch that has black top, black bottom on the light switch and neutrals wire-nutted together as this example has, but there is no ground in the box, can I still run it just like this but just use a metal box and GCFI outlet on the other end. ie, run the black and white exactly as you did here, eliminating the ground wire use from the 12/2? Thanks in advance.
If you have a metal box, that’s probably grounded by a shielded cable. So, first make sure your town allows you to use unshielded cable, then be sure to bond the ground wire to the original metal box. You just need to figure out which of the black wires are hot all the time.
Thanks so much for posting these kind of videos! When I look inside my existing light switch box, the green wires (ground) are not connected to the switch. The two green wires are connected together with a wire nut, but not connected to the switch. Do I need to add a pigtail and attach the switch ground to the rest of the wires when I add the outlet?
really enjoyed this...im wanting to add a gable fan inside my attic....there is only one outlet, for the light....i was wondering if i could use the split outlet, switch for light & always hot plug outlet for my fan? i was informed i should not use extension cord, but at 14/2cord with one end hard wire into fan but plug into outlet....is this possible and or safe?
If i have 2 light switches that are wired with 2 hot black wires on each with the constant hot pigtailed to the second switch, can I attach a second hot wire on the same screw that the pigtail is attached to and run it straight down along with neutral amd ground to add an outlet. The main constant hot wire and the pigtailed hot wire from the second switch is on one screw and i dont want to put a 3rd hot on that same screw if i don't need to. I'd basically be using the switches pigtailed constant hot wire to extend down about 2 feet for an outlet.
You can’t put two wires on one screw unless it’s a back-wired receptacle designed for that. Most are not. But it’s fine to connect all the hots with a wire nut.
I would just be basically running 2 pigtails from a switch's constant power to a second switch as well as a power outlet below. I don't know any other way to connect to that main black wire to extend it down to an outlet without attaching it to the switches constant hot terminal. I'm definitely not an electrician.
@@handydadtv I was looking through your videos but couldn't find an "installing an outlet from a light" one. I have an outside light over the garage that is powered by a switch at the front door. I installed a security camera next to it but there's no power. I've been using its battery feature, but they only last about a month. I have the power cord, but no outlet. Is it possible to get power from a simple light at the end of a run? I can't recall how many wires there are but think only 3 - black, white, and ground. Any advice? Or a video on this?
I tried adding an outlet to the GFCI combo that you demonstrated in another video. It all works fine except every time I turn the light switch off I have to hit the GFCI reset to turn it back on. I think what I did differently was to connect the light fixtures' hot and neutral as the load. Where did I go wrong? Thanks.
You should be commenting on that other video because it could help others who have the same issue. Go back to that video and rewatch how the light switch was wired. Then only connect the second outlet to the load.
@@handydadtv I figured it out. I didn't have an issue with the light fixture and combo switch process. My issue arose when I tried adding a regular outlet to the special GFCI combo switch vs. the regular switch on display here. I can copy and paste this question over there if you think it will help someone else. Thanks. You have the best explanations on UA-cam. Thanks. I'm a subscriber.👍👍
Awesome video! I replicated these same steps but somehow got the Rev Hot/Grd lights on in the tester. The light turns on fine and the tester says it's correct, however, when the light is turned on, the tester gives me that message (Rev Hot/Grd). Any clue?
How can I add a new switch for a different light if I only have one -12/2 w ground coming in box. The power is coming from light box and has a white wire with tape on it ( main hot) and a black wire (assuming that’s neutral)? Your advise would be appreciated! Thanks
Great video on adding an outlet from a switch, Can you tell me if it is possible to add a wall outlet from a light that is controlled by two wall switches?
I appreciate the link to this video you sent me earlier today. I haven't checked the configuration of my switch, but previous experience with my house wiring makes me suspect that what I have will end up being a "switch loop". If that is the case, is it still possible to add an outlet? Thanks again for providing high quality and very informative videos that are easy to follow and understand; I appreciate your time.
Great video. How would you trace wires. I have two red wires coming into a box. One from the top and the other from the bottom. I want to add an outlet.
Changing switch in my attic to the switch/outlet combo. If my switch in the attic has 2 hots, 1 on the screw and one backstabbed in, is it ok to put the second one around the other hot screw that you left vacant in the video? Or will that cause any sort of over heating or melting? Last thing I want is a fire in the attic! If it's not ok I'm assuming using a pig tail and connecting those 3 hots with a wago is the way to go? Thanks!!
Thank you for your guidance on how to run the wires, I totally needed a recap. I just bought another home and the outlets are connected to the switch, every time you turn off the switch it disconnects everything connected to the outlets, and it's very annoying.
I have a switch that has 3 blacks going into it, 1 hot "stabbed" into the bottom a black on the bottom screw going to a different set of wires (possibly a receptacle) and the black going to the switch. (1 neutral, 1 ground). To add a plug, will I need a pigtail to the switch AND back to that other set of wires? Can I use the top screw, or does that have to be white?
If I understand you correctly, the bottom two wires on the switch are always connected. One of them brings constant power in (also called the LINE); the other sends power out to other devices on the circuit. The top screw only gets power when the switch is turned ON. So if you want to add an outlet, you’ll connect your new black wire to the two black wires from the bottom of the switch, plus a pigtail to the switch. Leave the top screw alone.
Excellent video!! Question for you. I have a wall switch that controls a lower wall outlet. What I want to do is take that light swich and use it for new overhead lights. How would I do that? Thank you!!
You’ll need to run a wire from the switch box to the new lights. Then you’ll need to figure out how the switch and outlet are wired then change it so the switch works the light instead of the outlet.
@@handydadtv yes my house was built around that time and it doesn’t have a ground wire at all, that’s the reason for my question, will GBC take the place of the ground wire? Also what is the proper sequence for connecting switches and outlets? Thank you
@dreamer541 Only if your box is grounded. Use a volt meter and test across the hot wire and metal box. If you get no voltage, your box isn’t grounded and it makes no difference.
Nice video! I need to add a new switch to control a new outlet. I'm assuming I can follow this same procedure but instead of an outlet, I would add the switch then connect that to the outlet?
Hoping you can help. I very carefully followed your instructions and bundled my neutral with the other neutrals. I also pig tailed my hot wire as you did. I grounded my ground with the other grounds. The light is a fourescent ballast type 2 lamp arrangement T8 48”. It’s on a 15amp breaker. When I turn power on, and the switch is on the plug is hot, when it’s off the plug goes dead. Thoughts?
Somehow, the hot lead going to the outlet is switched, not always hot. You need to use a voltage tester to figure out why. Remember, some electricians use the white wire for hot without marking it with tape. It’s a bad practice, but it happens. One thing you can rely on is the ground is always ground. So use your voltage tester across ground and black, and ground and white to see which wires are hot. Unfortunately, wiring isn’t one-size-fits-all. Each electrician has their own style. Plus there’s a possibility one of the previous homeowners hacked something incorrectly.
I recently bought an older house that some wired completely with 12/2 wire. Is that or was it ever a code requirement? I realize garage and washer circuits require 20 amp wire but the whole house?
Great video, Chris. I am going to put an outside outlet on my deck, if it was the end of a run on the inside outlet, it would be simple, but would you please show me how to add the outside outlet from a middle of the run outlet by pig tailing. Thank you.
Is it possible to connect a plug to a 3-way light switch. The plug is going to be in an entry hall closet and only to charge the battery for a Dyson Stick Vacuum. It isn’t going to pulling very many amps.
Thank you for the video I have garage that has two lights inside but no outlet. I tried once a while ago and it just kept blowing the circuit breaker when I connected the shared switch/outlet combo. Since it is a very old house there are only two (fabric wrapped) wires going from the basement to the outside (detached) garage. I think this might be a switch loop as you mentioned since there is only two wires (like a positive and negative). I can’t get that setup to work correct? Seems that I would really need to replace all the BX wiring inside the garage to new modern standards and see if I can run/pull a new 12 gauge Romex through the underground pipe that feeds the garage. Let me know thank you
Where is the switch that controls the garage lights? If it’s in the garage, then you must have a hot and neutral there so you should be able to add an outlet. With fabric insulation, you typically have a metal box that may be grounded by the shielded cable. You can check with a voltage tester across the hot and metal box. Even if you can get it to work, I’d really recommend upgrading all your wiring. You probably need a new panel as well, but get an electrician for that. Prepare your garage for an electric vehicle someday.
@@handydadtv Thank you for your reply Our panel is modern are we are using current new circuit breakers and not round screw in buss style fuses which is great. By the basements back door the two lines go underground through a metal conduit over to the garage to where the switch is, where it controls two very simple lights. I know that the correct process would be to run new lines but was curious if I was doing something wrong if there is a possibility to get it going before getting the new lines run. Was thinking about run romex through that conduit pipe to get 12 gauge there to support a 20 AMP circuit breaker. Not sure if the romex would fit. But thank you for answering my question, appreciated.
Actually, I don’t think you should run Romex in conduit. I would use THWN wire, which are individual waterproof conductors. Get 3 spools - white, black and green. Attach pulling twine (2 strands for redundancy) to the old wires and hope it comes through the conduit from the basement to the garage. Then attach the THWN wires to one strand of the twine. Have a helper grease the wires in the basement with cable pulling lubricant while you pull that strand from the garage and pray they don’t come off the twine. If they do, try again with the second strand of twine. Good luck!
Well I did this in order to install an electric bidet for my wife, everything went well but the only problem is when I run the bidet weather just be the waterspout or the oscillator you can see the lights flickering in the whole bathroom as the bidet draws power, any solution are recommendation? Everything is installed correctly and grounded properly. So basically as the pump is running you can see the lights pulsating along with the sound and speed of the pump also I did not have to pigtail anything, it was a double switch one to the fan one to the light so I was able to just join my wires to the current line
I know that electricity diminishes over distance. How many outlets could you possibly run on the same line? Would like to add atleast 4 but preferably 6 outlets to a room with only a light fixture and a switch for said light fixture.
If you have a room with one light and no outlets, you can be sure that light is on a circuit with a lot of other things! Theoretically there is no limit to the number of outlets on a circuit. It’s only limited by the capacity of your circuit breaker. But I’d seriously consider running a new circuit for 6 outlets.
Thank you Chris for the video, I like your clear instructions and explanations. Now I have a question, I have a 3-switch box with no ground, and one switch is no longer in use, can I add a GFCI using the wires for the switch that is no longer in use and add a smart switch to one of the 3 switches? I hope you can understand what I am trying to do, or if you like I can send you pictures of the wiring that I mentioned. Thank you, I really appreciate your time.
I understand. You can only add an outlet (GFCI or not) if you have a neutral in the box for that circuit. It’s important that you don’t use a hot from one circuit and a neutral from another. Smart switches often require a neutral wire as well. Some don’t.
So how would you do that with a switch loop? The white/hot from the light would get pigtailed with the black from the outlet onto the bottom of the switch and then the black/neutral from the light would get pigtailed with the white from the outlet onto the top of the switch?
If both wires are connected to the switch, you don’t have a neutral and can’t connect an outlet without one. You can wire the outlet from the light, or from another source.
The switch / outlet instructions were spot on. I was able to wire up two new outlets to my barn. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you for making this great instructional video , I’m 76 and not done with doing anything on my own, but I do need a little help. This is just what I need to safely wire a switch to a light then connect to a outlet. Sometimes a takes a few reviews to make it all sink in to this old head, thanks, Chuck
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I'm with Chuck on this one, with an emphasis on watching a few reviews for it to become more clear.
Thank you for this easy to understand video.❤
@gonzr2012 Thanks so much 😊
One of the best gentlemen to watch, hands down, about the ins and outs of wiring outlets and switches correctly. The delivery, instruction, and information provided is very detailed and extremely easy to follow. Great job Chris!
Thanks so much 😊
I watched demonstration 10x to change a closet light switch to a switch/outlet. The special attention to wiring and wagos made my layperson project perfect! THANK YOU!
@BirdyP-nx3xh Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
The first option is exactly what I needed to know. THANK YOU for explaining it down to my level.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Absolutely the clearest, most comprehensive video on the topic. Kudos, Dad.
Thanks so much 😊
Thank you Chris! I was able to watch your video with my new switch/receptacle combo in my hand. I followed along with the video and because of your excellent instructions I will be now be able to install this type of switch too. I watched a previous video about adding an outlet to an existing one. I installed one per your directions, and it works perfectly. Senior ladies can do these types of things with the help of a great instructor like you! Thank you, thank you! ❤
Glad to hear! “I am woman, hear me roar!”
This is the most professional,easy to follow video. Sir I hope UA-cam sends you an award for teaching like a father would to a son. ❤
You hit the nail on the head. I always imagine I’m talking to my son or grandson after I’m gone. Thanks so much 😊
Joe 😂`
Fantastic easy to follow video. Just wired an outlet for our bidet. You are the man!
Just be sure to use GFCI protection.
Way to go! Really. Great instructions. No silliness or rap music or multiple camera angles (oh, my my my my how I hope co tent providers STOP doing multiple camera angles… it was never effective.)
Hats 🎩 off to you. Very well done!
Thanks so much 😊 Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thanks for your help! Added an outlet for the UV light of my whole house filter with this tutorial. Clear and concise, thanks Digital Dad!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
This video helped me through a wiring mess, thank you for the detailed information and instructions.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Well done Chris. Glad I found your videos. I almost went a different, more expensive way, but your video saved me some money. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Just discovered you. I’m doing my basement and this was a huge help with my light switch outlet combo
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
In the past I had replaced a switch with a switch and a tamper-resistant outlet. So, planning to do it again was a no brainer. That was until I started to remove the switch only to discover there were three black wires and one ground attached to the switch. One Romex wire coming into the electric box from the bottom and two going out the top! Thats when I go to UA-cam and eventually found Chris. This is a single gang box. However, to my surprise, it turned out to be the power source for three other switches. Chris's explanation was not for my situation but the way he described what had to be done to provide continual pawer to the outlet and light was all I needed. In the end I ran one pigtail to the neutral connection. Main power supply to the black screw for the outlet. Black wire to the brass crew for the ceiling light. Also used the remaining black screw for the power source to the three switches, instead of a pigtail. Of course, a wire to the ground. They all work, thanks to Chris's help. 😀
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Good job figuring it out even though it didn’t match my example exactly.
Any way you would be willing to help with a issue I have? I have replaced all outlets and switches in my basement but I have one outlet/Switch that I have two wire that I don’t know where they go. I hate to hire an electrician for two wires. Thanks
@erik8999 Try this: ua-cam.com/video/UAEq-yvjryQ/v-deo.html
@@handydadtv I will check out the video this morning. Thank you
Thank you so much! I added an overhead switched light, and now i know how to wire the exiting switched outlet with the new overhead light. Saved me a lot of money! Great videos
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Your tutorial was exactly what I was looking for and worked perfectly. Thank you for sharing with us.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Followed his instructions and I was able to install it all perfectly! Thanks!!
You did the hard part!!
Not bad for an IT guy! Super helpful Chris! Long time it’s been since the Merck days!! Was trying to search for a simple video and low and behold, there you were!! Hope you are doing well!!
Hey Joe! Yeah it’s been a minute. Thanks for the note. I’m at BMS now and this is my side gig/retirement plan.
your demos on the board remind me of my military days great work . Super easy to follow instructions Thanks .
Thanks so much 😊
Hey sir, great video. Im an engineer by trade so of course im useless with this stuff and was trying to replace a light switch with a combo switch/outlet in storage room.
She's all wired up and working now thanks to this video. Subbed for future learning.
Thanks for subscribing! Welcome to the family!
Thanks for the great video dad, working on installing outdoor permanent Christmas lights. I was stuck on what location to get power from, so I’m going to use the front door light and add a plug from it.
That works 👍🏻
Thank you for making a good video. It was helpful to me on a recent project of an addition of a new outlet wired in from a light switch.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Handy dad thanks for showing me how to do the outlet’s because I’m starting a electrical beginners class an this is a lot of help for me
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thanks dad. helped tear out an old over burdened circuit and replaced it with fresh Romex while deleting on some runs that aren't necessary. 👌
That’ll help you sleep at night.
I was looking for this today when I was gonna wire a light. You answered my questions. Thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thanks for your very detailed videos. What if i want to replace my existing switch (light only) with a switch and electric outlet in the same box (second example in this video), but i dont have a ground wire in the box? Also, what seems to be the neutral wire is just running in the box but not currently connected to the switch?
Even if you don’t have a ground wire, you may have a grounded metal box. But if you don’t, you should consider upgrading your wiring.
You need a neutral to add an outlet. I don’t have a video on how to identify a neutral but I’m sure you can find one. Don’t always assume a white wire is neutral.
Very good. I would like to see the small but important details that nobody ever shows on these videos, like stripping the wire ends, making the loop in your pigtail and tightening the screw on it, tugging the wires to make sure they are tight, and the proper way to fold and tuck all those wire connections into the box and close it up.
Thanks for the feedback.
I have two outlets in my garage. All on the wall connected to the house. I’m really needing more outlets throughout the garage. Hopefully this helps me add some fixtures!! Thanks for the video!!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
thanks for the info, I would never have tried this without your knowledge. It worked great!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Excellent instructions. I was wondering if a switch I have could be the cause of a gfci (connected to it) receptacle tripping. The gfci only has line wires coming in and they come from the switch. The gfci malfunction may have another cause like the metal box it was in not having the ground wire connected to it as it was on the gfci green screw only. The light switch has a light that shows it is working fine. But for some reason I thought it could have faulty wires going to the gfci receptacle. Thanks
The LINE shouldn’t cause the GFCI to trip. The LOAD definitely will.
Try replacing the GFCI. They’re not very expensive.
This was very helpful I needed an outlet on a switch and needed it to be live at all times
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thanks. I wasn't sure how to do it, but now it works.
My wife is happy, so I'm happy.
Happy wife, happy life. 👍🏻
Thank you, Handy Dad. I am learning and enjoying from your videos. Keep on going.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
What a fantastic teacher you are! Thank you and may God bless you.
Thanks so much 😊
Great informative video.
Question: How do you go about adding an outlet to a light switch with individual light and ceiling fan on/off switch that run off the ceiling fan. I would assume the same way except choosing either switch using the hot wire.
Not sure I understand
Do you have a video of installing an outdoor motion sensor for lighting with an override switch to turn on the light directly? How would you need to wire this if you had a 3 way already installed?
How to add an Outdoor Light from Outlet
ua-cam.com/video/dS0iX_7sFjs/v-deo.html
thank you so much you just saved me $ 250 .your instruction where very clear and helpful .
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Your work is very good, easy to understand and fallow. You are the best. Thank you so much.
My pleasure! Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you, Chris H, for your cool collective explanation.
My pleasure!
I am wanting to do exactly what you have done , add a combination switch and outlet to a pre existing wall outlet. I though only see two hots and a ground bit no white neutral wires. how do I deal with this ? . Thank you
You need a neutral.
Thanks! So if I only have one line (black,white & ground) in my attic going to a light I will not be able to install an outlet off it and still keep the light? I'm trying to add an outlet to my existing atttic light for a pre amplifier to my new tv antenna.
That won’t work because the hot is switched. You need a constant hot.
I show how to find a power source in an attic in this video when I installed 3 ceiling fans: ua-cam.com/video/WljevriVVF4/v-deo.html
Great explanation on wiring… Very helpful video that helped me tremendously.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Excellent video. I followed your steps of method 1. The outlet tester showed me that I connected the wires correctly to the new outlet. However, I noticed later that the charger (for a Dyson vacuum) plugged into the new outlet was getting hot. I then tested the new outlet with an LED lamp , it was flickering and while that was flickering, the outlet tester plugged into the other receptacle of the same new outlet did not show any lights. What could be the reason? I was struggling with the wire nuts connecting 3 wires per nut in the light switch box. I used Romex 12 gauge. Could it be insufficient connections in the wire nuts? Maybe wargo connectors are better for my purpose?
Redo all your connections. If that doesn’t help, please call an electrician to check it out.
Thank you very much for the class!! You are a great teacher!!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you, could it be possible to do a halo quick link video and is it possible to add an outlet to that box
This video features lights similar to the Halo Quicklink: ua-cam.com/video/x4TooPn0hd8/v-deo.html
Add an outlet to which box? You can add an outlet wherever you have a hot, neutral and ground.
Thank you for your clear video presentation. I happened to come here because I wanted to see if it was possible to wire an outlet where top is always hot and bottom goes off a switch when the power feed comes through the switch? As it is now both outlets are hot, top and bottom.
My outlet is under my sink and works off a switch for both upper and lower outlets. I just bought a faucet that needs constant power and wanted to use that outlet, but it isn’t hot when garbage disposal is not in use. The switch activates it.
I looked at wire in outlet and there are just two, white and black. Switch has been fed power to it by another wire (from switch) where I cannot accurately see what was done but it did get power at that source. (I took a photo of it)
My question to you is can you still make one half of outlet hot all the time with wiring that is already there? If so how would you make the connections? (My outlet is end of run.) only two wires come into it from switch, a white and black with ground.
Sorry it’s not going to work for you because you only have a single hot wire and it’s switched. You’d need to replace that wire coming from the switch with 3-conductor wire (which has two hots).
Amazing video! But I have a question, what can be done if that is the case with the neutral being the hot to the fixture? Is there a way around that or because the white wire isn’t actually a neutral there’s no way to add an outlet from that switch?
Find a different power source for the new outlet. You need a neutral.
I want to put an outlet under the kitchen counter to power the dishwasher and a new garbage disposal. The disposal will also need a switch that I want to add to an existing box with a switch for a ceiling light. Also thinking I could add a double switch in the existing light switch box. Thoughts?
You should check your local electric code. The dishwasher may need a dedicated circuit. You can use a doubles switch for the disposal, or change the box to 2-gang and add a switch.
Great video, very easy to follow along. One question, what if the switch was a 3-way light switch, can I still wire an outlet that is always hot like you show in the first example? Thank you!
Possibly. You need constant hot, neutral and ground to run an outlet. You need to open the switch and see if you have those things. TEST, don’t assume: if the white wire is connected to the switch, it’s NOT a neutral.
@@handydadtv Got it, will do, thank you for the help.
So I’m trying to take power from the light switch in the attic and I used the first method to do just that. However I wanted to run some items off a power outlet in the attic and had not considered your second method. I was able to use both methods for one project.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you for all of your videos. I’d like to make a test board like you have to mock up and test before trying to do it for real. Is it just the electrical boxes screwed into the board and a plug to provide power from a wall outlet?
Yes exactly. No magic here.
I appreciate you for explaining that in detail, great video!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you for this video. What wire gauge is required for the pigtail?
The same gauge as the wires in the wall.
Such a helpful video - very clear and concise! I just installed a new outlet by drawing power from a Lutron smart switch rather than a single pole as used in the example video. Everything works great, outlet tester shows correct lights, Lutron smart switch turns on and off the ceiling lights without affecting power to the outlet. However, if I have something plugged into the outlet (like my Dyson battery) and the ceiling light is turned off, it flickers on and off without over and over until I turn the lights back on. Would you have an idea of how to fix that? Maybe it’s not possible for draw power from a smart switch to power an always hot outlet? Would appreciate any suggestions!
Where does power ENTER the circuit (the ceiling box, the switch box, or the outlet box)?
Will this work on something like a clothes iron? Or will that pull too many amps? My last house had all the lights on a floor together on one breaker switch, i assume a light breaker would be low amps, and it might trip using an iron. Any idea?
I can’t answer. You need to figure that out based on your circuits.
Thanks for the video. If I want to do this to attic outlet, can and should I do a GFCI outlet in case the fan I am powering overheats and shorts out, which I hope would never happen? Can I also just buy a bigger blue box to house all the wires since it’s just a box in the attic? Or can I add another blue box before the switch that would split the wire before coming into the switch so after splitting from the new blue split box one set of wires goes to the switch and other set goes to the new outlet? (Sorry if I have the terminology wrong. )
You don’t ever need a GFCI outlet in an attic (it doesn’t detect shorts anyway). But I don’t think you should use an outlet at all. If you’re installing an attic ventilation fan or whole-house fan, they should be hardwired.
@@handydadtv I want an outlet and not hard wired bc I want to plug the fan into a smart wifi outlet in so I can turn on the fan remotely using my phone when I want an increase in airflow to certain rooms. Basically a few guest rooms my 4 ton Lennox central HVAC unit doesn’t cool well enough because the foil ducts are too narrow, so I was thinking of putting a fan in the duct to boost and pull / push more cold air into those rooms when needed. A wifi outlet would let me use my phone to turn it on when needed. (I explored redoing the duct work but got a quote of like $10k. )
Can I also just buy a bigger blue box to house all the wires since it’s just a box in the attic? Or can I add another blue box before the switch that would split the wire before coming into the switch so after splitting from the new blue split box one set of wires goes to the switch and other set goes to the new outlet? (Sorry if I have the terminology wrong. )
@wstt4 Ok you’re installing duct fans. You can do what you want, but it would be best to have them thermostatically controlled so you don’t need to remember to turn them on and off.
I was looking for a tutorial on how to connect a wall outlet that's in a daisy chain using a switch control for a single plug in the outlet. I have white, black, red, and ground. Not sure what all to connect to where and using a pigtail.
How to Switch HALF an Outlet
ua-cam.com/video/5D4itWGtTVQ/v-deo.html
So would this be the same concept for three way switches? Like one 3-way switch to lights and outlets in-between and then the other end is a 3-way switch. Is it best to use this same principle?
It’s difficult to add an unswitched outlet to a 3-way circuit because the white wire is often used as a hot leg instead of a neutral.
Chris, in your video at the 1:10 mark I have a switch that connected exactly like that, I'm trying to add a GFCI outlet from the switch, I have 2 wires(plus ground ) running to the switch box from the new outlet box. I have the black and white wires connected to the LINE side on GFCI outlet. But I can not seem to get the outlet to work even pressed in the reset and test button once it's wired. I have the white wire (which is probably supposed to be black)connected to the gold screw and the black always hot wire pigtailed to the black wire from the outlet. The white neutral is capped off. Can you shed some 'light' as to why the outlet is not working?? ( Note: the switch still works and the tester is beeping on the outlet)
Rewatch that section. You may have missed where I said your white wire is NOT a neutral so you can’t run an outlet from that switch.
@@handydadtv ok thanks for the clarification I asked because didn’t hear you say ‘You can’t ‘ do it
Awesome video helped tremendously just moved into a new house and both outlets were non functional because they were wired wrong , and one was on a switch and the other was at the end of the circuit with non functional wires attached , finding the load and the neutral helped , and then my high school electric class kicked in and i daisy chained the outlet at the end of the circuit and everything worked out . Thanks
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
On the 2nd options. Can you still add another outlet? Thanks
You need a hot, neutral and ground.
@handydadtv how would you wire it if you wanted the switch to control the outlet on the combo outlet? Is this correct: On the non-tabbed side, line/hot goes to brass screw. Neutral to silver screw and to neutral of 2nd outlet. Tabbed side, hot of the switch is wired to 2nd outlet hot. all grounds to green? Is that correct?
I did that in this video: ua-cam.com/video/i_Dwokzgs8w/v-deo.html
@@handydadtv thank you. I appreciate you getting back to me. My question, was how to wire a combo, as you did in the video, and a outlet in a 2 gang for a total of 3 outlets in a 2 gang box, all controlled by the on off switch. Sorry if my question wasnt clear. Merry Christmas!
Connect the line to one leg of the switch. The other leg to the outlets.
@@handydadtv thank you!
I have switch loop, is it possible to add a combination switch to have it control the light and keep the receptacle always on? Thanks
No
Could you clarify the front half of your video? If I have the set up with only 2 wires in a switch box that controls a light, does that mean I will be unable to to run an outlet without having to turn the switch on? Because there is no power going to to the light switch?
You have power going to the switch, but you don’t have a neutral. You need to find another source to extend the circuit and power your new outlet.
Most modern homes use separate circuits for switches and receptacles and the switches, typically for lights, are on 15 amp circuits. Now you're adding a receptacle to a lighting or other low power anticipated circuit. It's not necessarily a bad thing, as many receptacles can be on 15 amp circuits. If you're adding a receptacle to power a room heater for example you should have a 20 amp circuit.
Correct! Thanks 😊
Every *correctly* installed 15 amp circuit, whether intended for lights or for outlets, has the exact same load capacity rating of 1800 to 2000 watts. A lighting circuit can have a multiple outlets on it, as long as the total load at any given time does not exceed 1800w. Space heaters draw a maximum of 1500w and are safe to use on 15a circuits, with a couple hundred watts to spare for lights, TV etc.
Great explanation. One question. If running from a switch that has black top, black bottom on the light switch and neutrals wire-nutted together as this example has, but there is no ground in the box, can I still run it just like this but just use a metal box and GCFI outlet on the other end. ie, run the black and white exactly as you did here, eliminating the ground wire use from the 12/2? Thanks in advance.
If you have a metal box, that’s probably grounded by a shielded cable. So, first make sure your town allows you to use unshielded cable, then be sure to bond the ground wire to the original metal box.
You just need to figure out which of the black wires are hot all the time.
This is such a helpful video! Curious if things change if I have a 3 way switch?
Yes, possibly. Your 3-way circuit may use the white wire as a hot instead of neutral. You can’t add an outlet without a neutral.
@ ok thanks!
Thanks so much for posting these kind of videos! When I look inside my existing light switch box, the green wires (ground) are not connected to the switch. The two green wires are connected together with a wire nut, but not connected to the switch. Do I need to add a pigtail and attach the switch ground to the rest of the wires when I add the outlet?
Yes, if the switch has a ground screw, it should be pigtailed to the ground wires.
really enjoyed this...im wanting to add a gable fan inside my attic....there is only one outlet, for the light....i was wondering if i could use the split outlet, switch for light & always hot plug outlet for my fan? i was informed i should not use extension cord, but at 14/2cord with one end hard wire into fan but plug into outlet....is this possible and or safe?
It’s not kosher to use a plug on Romex cable. Just hard-wire that cable into the outlet box.
If i have 2 light switches that are wired with 2 hot black wires on each with the constant hot pigtailed to the second switch, can I attach a second hot wire on the same screw that the pigtail is attached to and run it straight down along with neutral amd ground to add an outlet. The main constant hot wire and the pigtailed hot wire from the second switch is on one screw and i dont want to put a 3rd hot on that same screw if i don't need to. I'd basically be using the switches pigtailed constant hot wire to extend down about 2 feet for an outlet.
You can’t put two wires on one screw unless it’s a back-wired receptacle designed for that. Most are not.
But it’s fine to connect all the hots with a wire nut.
One concern, which I neglected to mention in the video, is any high current device you plug in there will likely cause your lights to flicker.
I would just be basically running 2 pigtails from a switch's constant power to a second switch as well as a power outlet below. I don't know any other way to connect to that main black wire to extend it down to an outlet without attaching it to the switches constant hot terminal. I'm definitely not an electrician.
Good video. Perfectly narrated and just the facts about how to do it.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
@@handydadtv I was looking through your videos but couldn't find an "installing an outlet from a light" one. I have an outside light over the garage that is powered by a switch at the front door. I installed a security camera next to it but there's no power. I've been using its battery feature, but they only last about a month. I have the power cord, but no outlet. Is it possible to get power from a simple light at the end of a run? I can't recall how many wires there are but think only 3 - black, white, and ground. Any advice? Or a video on this?
Thanks but what type of wire I used to put double switch and separe outlet basically double box can you help me out
Call an electrician.
I tried adding an outlet to the GFCI combo that you demonstrated in another video. It all works fine except every time I turn the light switch off I have to hit the GFCI reset to turn it back on. I think what I did differently was to connect the light fixtures' hot and neutral as the load. Where did I go wrong? Thanks.
You should be commenting on that other video because it could help others who have the same issue.
Go back to that video and rewatch how the light switch was wired. Then only connect the second outlet to the load.
@@handydadtv I figured it out. I didn't have an issue with the light fixture and combo switch process. My issue arose when I tried adding a regular outlet to the special GFCI combo switch vs. the regular switch on display here. I can copy and paste this question over there if you think it will help someone else. Thanks. You have the best explanations on UA-cam. Thanks. I'm a subscriber.👍👍
Glad you figured it out!
Awesome video! I replicated these same steps but somehow got the Rev Hot/Grd lights on in the tester. The light turns on fine and the tester says it's correct, however, when the light is turned on, the tester gives me that message (Rev Hot/Grd). Any clue?
Correct that ASAP. Very dangerous shock hazard. Call an electrician or if you can’t figure it out.
Weirdly same thing happened to me. Did you find out why?
Such a good video!!! Made it very easy for someone that isn’t an electrician like myself
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
How can I add a new switch for a different light if I only have one -12/2 w ground coming in box. The power is coming from light box and has a white wire with tape on it ( main hot) and a black wire (assuming that’s neutral)? Your advise would be appreciated! Thanks
If both wires are connected to the switch, you don’t have a neutral so you can’t add another switch there. Find another power source.
Great video on adding an outlet from a switch, Can you tell me if it is possible to add a wall outlet from a light that is controlled by two wall switches?
Yes, but it will only go on when the light is on.
I appreciate the link to this video you sent me earlier today. I haven't checked the configuration of my switch, but previous experience with my house wiring makes me suspect that what I have will end up being a "switch loop". If that is the case, is it still possible to add an outlet? Thanks again for providing high quality and very informative videos that are easy to follow and understand; I appreciate your time.
If you don’t have a neutral at the switch, you’d need to wire the outlet from the light.
Great video. How would you trace wires. I have two red wires coming into a box. One from the top and the other from the bottom. I want to add an outlet.
ua-cam.com/video/UAEq-yvjryQ/v-deo.html
Hi. So if I dont have a nuetral and just switch loop...can I still add an outlet
No
Changing switch in my attic to the switch/outlet combo. If my switch in the attic has 2 hots, 1 on the screw and one backstabbed in, is it ok to put the second one around the other hot screw that you left vacant in the video? Or will that cause any sort of over heating or melting? Last thing I want is a fire in the attic! If it's not ok I'm assuming using a pig tail and connecting those 3 hots with a wago is the way to go? Thanks!!
You can use the screws. Using two screws is better than backstabbing.
@@handydadtv thanks for the reply!!! I really appreciate it!
Can you take power from the switch & put in new outlet & then put in a 2nd switch to control that outlet ?
Yes
Excellent video. Very clear description. You have a great style. I have subscribed!
Thanks for subscribing! Welcome to the family!
Thank you for your guidance on how to run the wires, I totally needed a recap. I just bought another home and the outlets are connected to the switch, every time you turn off the switch it disconnects everything connected to the outlets, and it's very annoying.
Yes that would be annoying.
I have a switch that has 3 blacks going into it, 1 hot "stabbed" into the bottom a black on the bottom screw going to a different set of wires (possibly a receptacle) and the black going to the switch. (1 neutral, 1 ground). To add a plug, will I need a pigtail to the switch AND back to that other set of wires? Can I use the top screw, or does that have to be white?
If I understand you correctly, the bottom two wires on the switch are always connected. One of them brings constant power in (also called the LINE); the other sends power out to other devices on the circuit.
The top screw only gets power when the switch is turned ON.
So if you want to add an outlet, you’ll connect your new black wire to the two black wires from the bottom of the switch, plus a pigtail to the switch.
Leave the top screw alone.
Excellent video!! Question for you. I have a wall switch that controls a lower wall outlet. What I want to do is take that light swich and use it for new overhead lights. How would I do that? Thank you!!
You’ll need to run a wire from the switch box to the new lights. Then you’ll need to figure out how the switch and outlet are wired then change it so the switch works the light instead of the outlet.
Hi handy dad great video, question if I get a ground bonding clip on an outlet? do I need a ground wire
Homes built before 1951 may not have ground wires. If you have them, you need to connect them.
@@handydadtv yes my house was built around that time and it doesn’t have a ground wire at all, that’s the reason for my question, will GBC take the place of the ground wire? Also what is the proper sequence for connecting switches and outlets? Thank you
@dreamer541 Only if your box is grounded. Use a volt meter and test across the hot wire and metal box. If you get no voltage, your box isn’t grounded and it makes no difference.
@@handydadtv got it thank you very much
Nice video! I need to add a new switch to control a new outlet. I'm assuming I can follow this same procedure but instead of an outlet, I would add the switch then connect that to the outlet?
Yes, just be sure to switch the hot (black) wire only.
Hoping you can help.
I very carefully followed your instructions and bundled my neutral with the other neutrals. I also pig tailed my hot wire as you did. I grounded my ground with the other grounds.
The light is a fourescent ballast type 2 lamp arrangement T8 48”. It’s on a 15amp breaker.
When I turn power on, and the switch is on the plug is hot, when it’s off the plug goes dead.
Thoughts?
Somehow, the hot lead going to the outlet is switched, not always hot. You need to use a voltage tester to figure out why.
Remember, some electricians use the white wire for hot without marking it with tape. It’s a bad practice, but it happens. One thing you can rely on is the ground is always ground. So use your voltage tester across ground and black, and ground and white to see which wires are hot.
Unfortunately, wiring isn’t one-size-fits-all. Each electrician has their own style. Plus there’s a possibility one of the previous homeowners hacked something incorrectly.
@@handydadtv yes!!! I just needed to check for the hot wire! Once I got that figured out, it was smooth sailing. Works great now!
Thank you!
I recently bought an older house that some wired completely with 12/2 wire. Is that or was it ever a code requirement?
I realize garage and washer circuits require 20 amp wire but the whole house?
Nothing wrong with that.
Great video, Chris. I am going to put an outside outlet on my deck, if it was the end of a run on the inside outlet, it would be simple, but would you please show me how to add the outside outlet from a middle of the run outlet by pig tailing. Thank you.
Watch ua-cam.com/video/klL8XhKMNT8/v-deo.html
Is it possible to connect a plug to a 3-way light switch. The plug is going
to be in an entry hall closet and only to charge the battery for a
Dyson Stick Vacuum. It
isn’t going to pulling very many amps.
Sure, if your switch has a constant hot and a neutral.
Thank you for the video
I have garage that has two lights inside but no outlet. I tried once a while ago and it just kept blowing the circuit breaker when I connected the shared switch/outlet combo. Since it is a very old house there are only two (fabric wrapped) wires going from the basement to the outside (detached) garage. I think this might be a switch loop as you mentioned since there is only two wires (like a positive and negative). I can’t get that setup to work correct?
Seems that I would really need to replace all the BX wiring inside the garage to new modern standards and see if I can run/pull a new 12 gauge Romex through the underground pipe that feeds the garage. Let me know thank you
Where is the switch that controls the garage lights? If it’s in the garage, then you must have a hot and neutral there so you should be able to add an outlet.
With fabric insulation, you typically have a metal box that may be grounded by the shielded cable. You can check with a voltage tester across the hot and metal box.
Even if you can get it to work, I’d really recommend upgrading all your wiring. You probably need a new panel as well, but get an electrician for that. Prepare your garage for an electric vehicle someday.
@@handydadtv Thank you for your reply
Our panel is modern are we are using current new circuit breakers and not round screw in buss style fuses which is great. By the basements back door the two lines go underground through a metal conduit over to the garage to where the switch is, where it controls two very simple lights. I know that the correct process would be to run new lines but was curious if I was doing something wrong if there is a possibility to get it going before getting the new lines run. Was thinking about run romex through that conduit pipe to get 12 gauge there to support a 20 AMP circuit breaker. Not sure if the romex would fit. But thank you for answering my question, appreciated.
Actually, I don’t think you should run Romex in conduit. I would use THWN wire, which are individual waterproof conductors. Get 3 spools - white, black and green. Attach pulling twine (2 strands for redundancy) to the old wires and hope it comes through the conduit from the basement to the garage. Then attach the THWN wires to one strand of the twine. Have a helper grease the wires in the basement with cable pulling lubricant while you pull that strand from the garage and pray they don’t come off the twine. If they do, try again with the second strand of twine. Good luck!
Well I did this in order to install an electric bidet for my wife, everything went well but the only problem is when I run the bidet weather just be the waterspout or the oscillator you can see the lights flickering in the whole bathroom as the bidet draws power, any solution are recommendation? Everything is installed correctly and grounded properly. So basically as the pump is running you can see the lights pulsating along with the sound and speed of the pump also I did not have to pigtail anything, it was a double switch one to the fan one to the light so I was able to just join my wires to the current line
I had the same issue and hired an electrician to run a new circuit for me. Cost me around $250 but well worth it.
I know that electricity diminishes over distance. How many outlets could you possibly run on the same line? Would like to add atleast 4 but preferably 6 outlets to a room with only a light fixture and a switch for said light fixture.
If you have a room with one light and no outlets, you can be sure that light is on a circuit with a lot of other things!
Theoretically there is no limit to the number of outlets on a circuit. It’s only limited by the capacity of your circuit breaker.
But I’d seriously consider running a new circuit for 6 outlets.
Can you add a three-way switch to a GFI and the GFI runs for other outlets?
Yes. Wire the 3-way circuit off the LOAD screws on the GFCI and all the downstream devices will be protected.
Thank you Chris for the video, I like your clear instructions and explanations. Now I have a question, I have a 3-switch box with no ground, and one switch is no longer in use, can I add a GFCI using the wires for the switch that is no longer in use and add a smart switch to one of the 3 switches? I hope you can understand what I am trying to do, or if you like I can send you pictures of the wiring that I mentioned. Thank you, I really appreciate your time.
I understand.
You can only add an outlet (GFCI or not) if you have a neutral in the box for that circuit. It’s important that you don’t use a hot from one circuit and a neutral from another.
Smart switches often require a neutral wire as well. Some don’t.
@handydadtv Thank Chris for your response. I appreciated .
Can i add a new outlet to the outlet/switch device?
Yes
I loved the video, but wish you could do more close up shots of the different steps you mention.
Thanks for the feedback.
So how would you do that with a switch loop? The white/hot from the light would get pigtailed with the black from the outlet onto the bottom of the switch and then the black/neutral from the light would get pigtailed with the white from the outlet onto the top of the switch?
If both wires are connected to the switch, you don’t have a neutral and can’t connect an outlet without one.
You can wire the outlet from the light, or from another source.