Really good job on this fix ! I encountered the same problem with the GEN 3 M18 FPD 2 (I ear a little "click" when I press the trigger, except the led didn't light on). I was quite disapointed that the electronic in the handle is way different than this one (heatsink, double PCB glued and overprotected). Even after succeeded in removing the plastic and most of the glue, i c'an"t identify where the "MOFSETs" described here are. The replacement part is as expensive as a new drill.
This exact thing happened to my 2804-20 drill today, hear a little clicking sound but no light comes on. Sending it in for warranty, hopefully they will repair it.
Thank you for your vid sir, My well loved drill died yesterday under load and exhibits identical symptoms. MOSFETs are cheap and I'll remove mine and test them, see if that's what failed. These are awesome drills and super heavy duty, so I would really like to fix mine, and it looks like the kind of repair I'm familiar with. Thanks
I was working on the transmission of my fuel drill, and this video was very helpful (I didn't record the orientation of the speed control wire). I'm curious, that is a very slick looking electric screwdriver, do you have a link or name of the manufacturer? (edit: looks like a ToolPAC ES120)
I really wish you would do this again and take the time to speak and explain what you're doing. My drill has the EXACT same problem but I can't figure out what you're doing
Ok... I watched again and slowed the speed down to 50%. I now understand what you're doing. One question remains for me though... how do you know which one of the 6 mosfets are bad? Thank you!
It's a rabbit hole to start talking about, and everyone is starting from a different level of knowledge, and I can really only speak on one level at a time, so even if I did explain it, I'd miss the mark on the majority of the audience. The short version is, a mosfet shorted. At a minimum, you need 6 to drive a bldc motor. They turn on and off in a sequence called 6-step control as the motor spins. I didn't have 6, I had 5, so the sequence was broken. Shorted mosfet is fairly simple to test. If there's continuity across all the pins, it's busted. On the new one, i was just playing with the meter showing how a positive voltage to the gate turns it and allows current to flow from the drain to the source. I watch Mr. Carlson's Lab sometimes, and I usually have no idea what he's talking about, and he's a better teacher than me, so I dunno. Maybe I'll ramble during the video next time and see how it goes.
@@maynardr6 Thank you so much, I understand what you're teaching me and I'm confident that I'll be able to fix it, if indeed I do have 1 or more mosfets bad. Thank you again, I'm subscribing to your channel now.
There are 6 of them, and while testing in the circuit isn't quite the same, if you see a short between two pins on just one of the 6, that's prolly the bad one :)
This is an excellent guide and diagnosis. My Milwaukee 2702-20 drill is exhibiting the same symptoms, but unfortunately the transistors are integrated under a copper heatsink and not replaceable.
@@m.k.6227 does it matter about the other numbers on the mosfet not matching as i cant find any the exact same eg the "218P", "OU" and "71" that are printed on the mosfets on my drill?
Does somebody has an idea what the problem could be: when the work load is to high (drill a hole in concrete) the machine stops and all the 5 LEDs start flashing???
Yeah Milwaukee has really gone down hill. To much money for these things to break down this way so soon. I have this happen with other Milwaukee drills. Time to buy something else. My ryobis are older and still going and my new ryobi is the same as my brushless Milwaukee gets more abuse and use and still never fails me and I paid alot let for the ryobis
This is the only milwaukee tool I've ever broken, and it was because I put an 8" hole saw on it in a pinch. Your ryobi wouldn't handle what I've put that drill through.
They're in there for certain. Might be differently packaged. There will be 6 of them. They could be flat surface mount ICs soldered down on their "backs" with 2 pins and little nub of a pin or they could even be 8 pin surface mount packages too.
eu tenho uma igual... estou esperando chegar da assitencia... recusei o reparo.. ficou 1000 reais na autorizada.. é o mesmo defeito do video. vou tentar reparar por aqui mesmo
Just one. It was clearly shorted. If you have 0 ohms between all the pins of a mosfet, it's toast. Also, I didn't explain it well, but you can turn mosfets on and off out of circuit with the multimeter and they stay that way which is what I was doing at 1:02
@@-WondersofCreation put meter in continuity check mode. Check continuity from each 1 to 2, 2 to 3, then 1 to 3. If it beeps every time, good chance it’s smoked, but pull it out and test again. Similarly for any component that has duplicate arrangements on a board. You can take relative measurements that should be the same and the one that’s different is suspect.
Hello, i have Milwaukee M18 BPD-0, 18V. Both stopped working after 2 years of service for no reason, i opened them up and both had burned mosfet the upper one. I ordered the same ones, replaced them and still nothing, they are not turning, only light comes on. Any ideas? :/
excuse me sir .. I have a problem in my hammer drill brushless FPD, if the battery is installed the first time the equipment can rotate but if it's left for a while the equipment can't operate anymore, maybe you can provide a solution .. thanks
Hello guys before you try to repair your milwakee drill please open it. In my case (european version) the handle part is full of something like glue and the circuit board is indide. I wasn't able to remove the glue without damaging the circuit board. Because of this it was impossible to replace the mosfet..
Hi I have a 2604 (M18 Fuel Gen1) that over heats and cuts out. What might need replacing? Also how could I use a power supply to test the drill? Do I need to connect the J1 and J2 to anything? Just using the positive and neutra justl turns the light on. Cheers
SnifterRoux it could be so many things. Did you notice a marked decline or overheating becoming worse over time. I’ve overheated the sawall straight out of the box, but I was just over working it. The heat sink is passive, so no fan to go bad. Can you see any discoloration on the windings? Could be a slightly shorter winding. Could be the motor is running. Since it’s frameless, the drill body is responsible for keeping everything in line and what not. I dunno much really without handling it.
@@maynardr6 A mate gave me the drill so I am not sure if it gradually got worse. I didn't notice any discoloration and I have no doubts that the body is keeping everything in line. Thanks for that :)
Hi, my Milwaukee 2604-20 fuel drill stopped working yesterday. When I pressed the trigger, the light came on, but the drill did not spin. I could hear a click at the motor at the beginning of my pressing the trigger. The symptom sounded the same as yours. I opened the housing, the shapes of the MOSFETs looked OK : no burn, no bulge. I knew you only changed one MOSFET and got the drill alive. How did you find that one was not working? For my drill, can I check the MOSFETs on board? Or, I try to replace all of them? Can you offer some advice? Thanks.
other things in the circuit will interfere with absolute readings, but you can take relative resistance measurements between the same pins on all the mosfets. Write them down, and maybe something will jump out at you. They will likely not appear damaged even if they are. You may need to remove the coating with alcohol and a toothbrush to get good contact with the pins. Desoldering things can be tricky, and much harder without the proper tools/materials. Electronics are usually cheaper the more you buy, so buy like 10, and you can cut the leads on them instead of desoldering the whole thing at once. Clean the holes with solder braid (mg chemical brand is good). Before soldering them, screw them all up to the heatsink and install as a single unit or nothing will ever line up.
@@maynardr6 Thanks, bro. You gave me a very detailed explanation. I will challenge the task. Hopefully, I can fix it. I will come back with the result when I am done. Thank you for your suggestions.
Hi! I am back. I have fixed the drill by replacing one of the MOSFETs. I checked the resistance among all the pins of MOSFETs as per @Maynardr6's recommendation. I found the readings on one MOSFET were quite different from the others. So, I cut it off. It was shorted. Today, I received new MOSFETs I bought from eBay, and I installed one on the board. The drill came back to life. Thank @maynard6 for making this Video and offering the advice.
@@hkiceca awww yeah mine did this last night.... i have it pulled apart in front of me thinking i got some steel chips in the brushless motor... but mine has the same symptom - click... and nada. this should do the trick
Hi can you help me on my m18 hammer drill 2804-20 (Gen2) it suddenly stop working at first I thought it was just battery but I tried to use my other m18 battery and still not working.. I have sa same issue on your video just a clicking sound but no lights are turning on. Remember if you remove the battery and put it back in lights will turn on but mine it does not. Please help I'm in philippines and we don't have service center here for milwaukee.
Hi, I have 02 model2804-20 have the same problems, I heard tic tic like the begin your video but all around circut is have glue. How Can I found mosfet and fix? thank your video
IRLB3034PBF on ebay. You need a solvent for the conformal coating on the board. I think I used sopropyl alcohol or acetone (I don't remember), and swabs.
Anyone know about the pin outs on the m18 battery? you get a voltage between the two inner pins of 3.2v, however my impact sometimes stops working and then I check the inner pins and they are at 0v, i can reset the battery by plugging it into my drill to bring them back up to 3.2v then it works again, so the impact must detect a fault and tell the battery to disconnect the pins?
Maynard,I have problem with 2804-20 or europian version is FPD2.Somtimes works when push the trigger,sometimes doesn't work.BUТ,if move reverse or mechanical rotor by hand-the drill is working.What is the problem-mosfet ot sensor of Hall? If need to open plastic I think to cut down plastic and then clear the silicone.What you suppose is the problem? Can I open safe the plastic basin down with cutting?Thanks and sorry my english.
In addition-when I push the trigger its doesnt work-I hear noise.When I rotate the propeler by screwdriver /the trigger is push/ and drill is working!!!
I have a 2804-20 that never worked quite right, very weak, even when it was new. But, it was under warranty, so I sent it in, and they sent it back in 4 days working perfectly. There may have been a newer revision of the control board or something. In general hall sensors are pretty reliable. My best guess is it's something on the control board.
I just start with what I know I should see. Lot easier with an oscilloscope. For instance, you should see the hall sensor outputs when you spin the motor, or you can find the crystal oscillator for the ic and see if that has a clock signal. Look for voltage regulators and check their output and see if it's within reason. Does the light come on when you push the trigger? Check the trigger with a volt meter and see if it's doin stuff.
@@maynardr6 I haven't mentioned, I have M18 cag125x. It's angle grinder, similar build as yours. Can I test it without permanent magnet inside coil? It should create magnetic field when i turn it on, right?
The light doesn't even come on with mine.... dafuq.... It's only a year old and has stayed in its box when not in use ... tried 3 different batteries, nothing, all work in other tools.
I've only used the warranty process once, but it was very easy, and they had my drill back to me in less than a week working perfectly. If it's only a year old, definitely get them to fix it. It's either a bad trigger, loose wire, or faulty board.
Best bet is ebay, but it might be difficult to find. It's worth the few dollars I spent if you like to tinker, but any place that sell the pcb assembly new is gonna be like $50 I bet, not worth the effort for a $100 drill.
If this excellent video did not help you, then you are just out of your league. Recognising this soon, and accepting the reality will save you much frustration henceforth. You really will feel better, and there are many like you in the world, so please pass it along for a better society.
Mosfet model is IRLB3034PBF
apart irlb3034 mosfet what else is suitable for this drill..? any suggest for me
Your vid saved me from having to buy a new drill therefore I am taking the time to say thank you.
Awesome
Really good job on this fix ! I encountered the same problem with the GEN 3 M18 FPD 2 (I ear a little "click" when I press the trigger, except the led didn't light on). I was quite disapointed that the electronic in the handle is way different than this one (heatsink, double PCB glued and overprotected). Even after succeeded in removing the plastic and most of the glue, i c'an"t identify where the "MOFSETs" described here are. The replacement part is as expensive as a new drill.
This exact thing happened to my 2804-20 drill today, hear a little clicking sound but no light comes on. Sending it in for warranty, hopefully they will repair it.
Same here with mine. Sealed board…
Thank you for your vid sir,
My well loved drill died yesterday under load and exhibits identical symptoms.
MOSFETs are cheap and I'll remove mine and test them, see if that's what failed.
These are awesome drills and super heavy duty, so I would really like to fix mine, and it looks like the kind of repair I'm familiar with.
Thanks
Muy buen video!!!
Práctico
Eres un pro!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
i realize it is pretty off topic but does anyone know of a good site to watch newly released series online?
Great video! What’s the part number of the 2 parts you replaced? Where can we get them from?
I was working on the transmission of my fuel drill, and this video was very helpful (I didn't record the orientation of the speed control wire). I'm curious, that is a very slick looking electric screwdriver, do you have a link or name of the manufacturer? (edit: looks like a ToolPAC ES120)
I think it was the es121, little speedier, but I would get the es120 probably because it's fast enough and has more versatile amount of torque.
Que sensacional seu video... obrigado.. ajudou muito
I really wish you would do this again and take the time to speak and explain what you're doing. My drill has the EXACT same problem but I can't figure out what you're doing
Ok... I watched again and slowed the speed down to 50%. I now understand what you're doing. One question remains for me though... how do you know which one of the 6 mosfets are bad? Thank you!
It's a rabbit hole to start talking about, and everyone is starting from a different level of knowledge, and I can really only speak on one level at a time, so even if I did explain it, I'd miss the mark on the majority of the audience. The short version is, a mosfet shorted. At a minimum, you need 6 to drive a bldc motor. They turn on and off in a sequence called 6-step control as the motor spins. I didn't have 6, I had 5, so the sequence was broken. Shorted mosfet is fairly simple to test. If there's continuity across all the pins, it's busted. On the new one, i was just playing with the meter showing how a positive voltage to the gate turns it and allows current to flow from the drain to the source. I watch Mr. Carlson's Lab sometimes, and I usually have no idea what he's talking about, and he's a better teacher than me, so I dunno. Maybe I'll ramble during the video next time and see how it goes.
@@maynardr6 Thank you so much, I understand what you're teaching me and I'm confident that I'll be able to fix it, if indeed I do have 1 or more mosfets bad. Thank you again, I'm subscribing to your channel now.
Is it always that mosfet you replaced? Or is it possible to measure it before desolder it?
There are 6 of them, and while testing in the circuit isn't quite the same, if you see a short between two pins on just one of the 6, that's prolly the bad one :)
Thank youu!! For you time
This is an excellent guide and diagnosis. My Milwaukee 2702-20 drill is exhibiting the same symptoms, but unfortunately the transistors are integrated under a copper heatsink and not replaceable.
En donde estas!!! Mi taladro brushless está igual....
What is that part number?
Thanks a lot my friend it was very helpful for me :) May you tell me the name of the mosfet?
IRLB3034PBF
@@maynardr6 you are my Hero :) thanks a lot my friend best regards
@@maynardr6 Sir can you help me on my milwaukee m18 gen 2 same issue but no light are turning on
@@m.k.6227 does it matter about the other numbers on the mosfet not matching as i cant find any the exact same eg the "218P", "OU" and "71" that are printed on the mosfets on my drill?
Well done 👍🏻
Thank you very much have a good day
Does somebody has an idea what the problem could be: when the work load is to high (drill a hole in concrete) the machine stops and all the 5 LEDs start flashing???
battery temp sensor is telling the drill that the battery is too hot.
Yeah Milwaukee has really gone down hill. To much money for these things to break down this way so soon. I have this happen with other Milwaukee drills. Time to buy something else. My ryobis are older and still going and my new ryobi is the same as my brushless Milwaukee gets more abuse and use and still never fails me and I paid alot let for the ryobis
This is the only milwaukee tool I've ever broken, and it was because I put an 8" hole saw on it in a pinch. Your ryobi wouldn't handle what I've put that drill through.
same problem but on an m12. Mosfets are not located the same in the m18. In fact, I don't see any mosfets at all...
They're in there for certain. Might be differently packaged. There will be 6 of them. They could be flat surface mount ICs soldered down on their "backs" with 2 pins and little nub of a pin or they could even be 8 pin surface mount packages too.
Tengo el m18 2902-20 y solamente prende la luz pero no trabaja ni hace clic, que podría ser?
eu tenho uma igual... estou esperando chegar da assitencia... recusei o reparo.. ficou 1000 reais na autorizada.. é o mesmo defeito do video. vou tentar reparar por aqui mesmo
Hi there. I want to ask you: did you replace (change ) just one of the mosfets or all of them ?
Thanks.
Just one. It was clearly shorted. If you have 0 ohms between all the pins of a mosfet, it's toast. Also, I didn't explain it well, but you can turn mosfets on and off out of circuit with the multimeter and they stay that way which is what I was doing at 1:02
@@maynardr6 thanks for your help Man. It's much appreciated.
@@maynardr6 how did you know which mossfet was toast?
@@-WondersofCreation put meter in continuity check mode. Check continuity from each 1 to 2, 2 to 3, then 1 to 3. If it beeps every time, good chance it’s smoked, but pull it out and test again. Similarly for any component that has duplicate arrangements on a board. You can take relative measurements that should be the same and the one that’s different is suspect.
What is the name the pice that your change
i just got this drill for $40 used. works fine but has a burnt smell when i use it. what could it be?
Fuel...
buenas mi pregunta es si todos los mosfet son de la misma referencia y
My M18 didn't have moafets that i could see and the whole chip was in a giant chunk of hardened silicone/adhesive... impossible
what's the name of your little screw driver it looks pretty handy
Mini ES120
@@maynardr6 thank you!
hola, como se llama la pieza que quito y volvió a soldar y donde la puedo conseguir
What is the name for this part? I hava the same problem. Thanks for the video
Hello, i have Milwaukee M18 BPD-0, 18V. Both stopped working after 2 years of service for no reason, i opened them up and both had burned mosfet the upper one. I ordered the same ones, replaced them and still nothing, they are not turning, only light comes on. Any ideas? :/
excuse me sir .. I have a problem in my hammer drill brushless FPD, if the battery is installed the first time the equipment can rotate but if it's left for a while the equipment can't operate anymore, maybe you can provide a solution .. thanks
Hello guys before you try to repair your milwakee drill please open it. In my case (european version) the handle part is full of something like glue and the circuit board is indide. I wasn't able to remove the glue without damaging the circuit board. Because of this it was impossible to replace the mosfet..
M. K. Acetone on a cuetip will remove the coating on the mosfets.
Hi. I just got the same problem. Did you fix it?
@@antoniovasquez5302 No :( after i try to remove the glue.. i destroyed a resistance.. that's why I disposed of it.
I Wish you luck and success!
@@m.k.6227 ohh noo. Thank you for back to text
Hi I have a 2604 (M18 Fuel Gen1) that over heats and cuts out. What might need replacing?
Also how could I use a power supply to test the drill? Do I need to connect the J1 and J2 to anything? Just using the positive and neutra justl turns the light on.
Cheers
SnifterRoux it could be so many things. Did you notice a marked decline or overheating becoming worse over time. I’ve overheated the sawall straight out of the box, but I was just over working it. The heat sink is passive, so no fan to go bad. Can you see any discoloration on the windings? Could be a slightly shorter winding. Could be the motor is running. Since it’s frameless, the drill body is responsible for keeping everything in line and what not. I dunno much really without handling it.
@@maynardr6 A mate gave me the drill so I am not sure if it gradually got worse. I didn't notice any discoloration and I have no doubts that the body is keeping everything in line.
Thanks for that :)
que bueno que alguien nos de una respuesta porque tengo el mismo problema
Hi, my Milwaukee 2604-20 fuel drill stopped working yesterday. When I pressed the trigger, the light came on, but the drill did not spin. I could hear a click at the motor at the beginning of my pressing the trigger. The symptom sounded the same as yours. I opened the housing, the shapes of the MOSFETs looked OK : no burn, no bulge. I knew you only changed one MOSFET and got the drill alive. How did you find that one was not working? For my drill, can I check the MOSFETs on board? Or, I try to replace all of them? Can you offer some advice? Thanks.
other things in the circuit will interfere with absolute readings, but you can take relative resistance measurements between the same pins on all the mosfets. Write them down, and maybe something will jump out at you. They will likely not appear damaged even if they are. You may need to remove the coating with alcohol and a toothbrush to get good contact with the pins. Desoldering things can be tricky, and much harder without the proper tools/materials. Electronics are usually cheaper the more you buy, so buy like 10, and you can cut the leads on them instead of desoldering the whole thing at once. Clean the holes with solder braid (mg chemical brand is good). Before soldering them, screw them all up to the heatsink and install as a single unit or nothing will ever line up.
@@maynardr6 Thanks, bro. You gave me a very detailed explanation. I will challenge the task. Hopefully, I can fix it. I will come back with the result when I am done. Thank you for your suggestions.
Hi! I am back. I have fixed the drill by replacing one of the MOSFETs. I checked the resistance among all the pins of MOSFETs as per @Maynardr6's recommendation. I found the readings on one MOSFET were quite different from the others. So, I cut it off. It was shorted. Today, I received new MOSFETs I bought from eBay, and I installed one on the board. The drill came back to life. Thank @maynard6 for making this Video and offering the advice.
@@hkiceca Right on man, great job
@@hkiceca awww yeah mine did this last night.... i have it pulled apart in front of me thinking i got some steel chips in the brushless motor...
but mine has the same symptom - click... and nada.
this should do the trick
What’s the name of that piece you changed ?
Hi can you help me on my m18 hammer drill 2804-20 (Gen2) it suddenly stop working at first I thought it was just battery but I tried to use my other m18 battery and still not working.. I have sa same issue on your video just a clicking sound but no lights are turning on. Remember if you remove the battery and put it back in lights will turn on but mine it does not. Please help I'm in philippines and we don't have service center here for milwaukee.
Hi, I have 02 model2804-20 have the same problems, I heard tic tic like the begin your video but all around circut is have glue. How Can I found mosfet and fix? thank your video
IRLB3034PBF on ebay. You need a solvent for the conformal coating on the board. I think I used sopropyl alcohol or acetone (I don't remember), and swabs.
De que capacidad son los mosfet?
That was great mt M12 drill is sparking inside the case, what could that be if it is brushless?
sounds like a catastrophic failure if it's brushless and sparking
@@maynardr6 oh ok :( thankyou
Anyone know about the pin outs on the m18 battery? you get a voltage between the two inner pins of 3.2v, however my impact sometimes stops working and then I check the inner pins and they are at 0v, i can reset the battery by plugging it into my drill to bring them back up to 3.2v then it works again, so the impact must detect a fault and tell the battery to disconnect the pins?
Gracias buen video espero el mio tenga el mismo problema
Sabes como se llama la pieza?
Link to the replacement part?
noble splitfire irlb3034pbf I got it on eBay.
Tanks!
Hello. Please tell me the model of this drill ?
Maynard,I have problem with 2804-20 or europian version is FPD2.Somtimes works when push the trigger,sometimes doesn't work.BUТ,if move reverse or mechanical rotor by hand-the drill is working.What is the problem-mosfet ot sensor of Hall?
If need to open plastic I think to cut down plastic and then clear the silicone.What you suppose is the problem? Can I open safe the plastic basin down with cutting?Thanks and sorry my english.
In addition-when I push the trigger its doesnt work-I hear noise.When I rotate the propeler by screwdriver /the trigger is push/ and drill is working!!!
I have a 2804-20 that never worked quite right, very weak, even when it was new. But, it was under warranty, so I sent it in, and they sent it back in 4 days working perfectly. There may have been a newer revision of the control board or something. In general hall sensors are pretty reliable. My best guess is it's something on the control board.
@@maynardr6 is that mean the problem is not in MOSFET?
@@vovavova2965 It could be anything, lol. Is it not under warranty?
@@maynardr6 No warranty.
hi, hey tell me where you live I have one of those that I need to fix please
thanks
Sir can you help me on my milwaukee m18 gen 2 same issue but no light are turning on
Can the mosfets be checked while still in the board?
You can check continuity between the pins. If they're all shorted, it's probably toast.
Tebrikler
Is the MOSFET different in a Milwaukee 2902-20? Thanks! (non-Fuel brushless)
...there are 6 in this model. Install battery and it lights, no movement.
@@pheehzero did you fix the 2902-20 ?
@@angelm9868 No, I ended-up selling 2 for $50 on FB-Mkt
Same problem on mine Milwaukee M18 CPD ( MOSFET IRFB7434).
Mosfet irfb7434
Es normal que un m18 de tercera generación se caliente demasiado y consuma mui rápido una batería de 5 amperes taladro
Would It be the same problem with a grinder Fuel 2780?
It doesn't works only a click
Out of date for new ones circuit board unclosed
I measured my mosfets and all look good. I don't know what check next. Any suggestions?
I just start with what I know I should see. Lot easier with an oscilloscope. For instance, you should see the hall sensor outputs when you spin the motor, or you can find the crystal oscillator for the ic and see if that has a clock signal. Look for voltage regulators and check their output and see if it's within reason. Does the light come on when you push the trigger? Check the trigger with a volt meter and see if it's doin stuff.
@@maynardr6 I haven't mentioned, I have M18 cag125x. It's angle grinder, similar build as yours. Can I test it without permanent magnet inside coil? It should create magnetic field when i turn it on, right?
@@Klakier1995 the hall sensors read the magnet, so you're gonna need that. You can just take any magnet and wiggle it around the sensors to check em.
nesesito conseguir los transistores no hayo en ninguna parte
Lol what would it cost to send me drill to be fixed lol
where do i get that part
ebay
Same problem on mine
Oh that's all it is? pfft.
The light doesn't even come on with mine.... dafuq....
It's only a year old and has stayed in its box when not in use ...
tried 3 different batteries, nothing, all work in other tools.
I've only used the warranty process once, but it was very easy, and they had my drill back to me in less than a week working perfectly. If it's only a year old, definitely get them to fix it. It's either a bad trigger, loose wire, or faulty board.
@@maynardr6 yeah I took it to local winnelson I bought it from and they are sending it off for warranty
where i can buy the logical board?
Best bet is ebay, but it might be difficult to find. It's worth the few dollars I spent if you like to tinker, but any place that sell the pcb assembly new is gonna be like $50 I bet, not worth the effort for a $100 drill.
if you wanna make a video on a 2557 Ratchet, I'll send you mine!
sure
Too fast
Nice jerb 😂 basic electronics
Thanks for not explaining anything
If this excellent video did not help you, then you are just out of your league.
Recognising this soon, and accepting the reality will save you much frustration henceforth.
You really will feel better, and there are many like you in the world, so please pass it along for a better society.
@@whateverscleverandthensome8930 thank you very much for that, now if you would kindly lick the brown out of my sheriff's badge! Good day.
Agreed! your outta your league son.
Crap