Smyth Busters: Fixing Your AR-15's Headspace
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- In our last Smyth Busters episode, about mixing and matching AR-15 bolt-carrier groups, Steve and Caleb talked about checking the headspace to make sure it's OK after making a swap. What happens if you pull out your headspace gauge and get a "no-go" result? Can you fix / correct /adjust an AR-15's headspace? Some folks say, "Yes." But the AR-15's unique setup combining a rotating bolt with a barrel extension behind the chamber makes that difficult. You're pretty much stuck with the headspace you have when the bolt lugs lock into the barrel extension.
There are ways to change the headspace, but you really have to be a gunsmith to do it. The guys give us an overview of how EXCESS headspace is fixed. The cost of the labor to do the fix will likely be much higher than the cost of the barrel. If the headspace is too SHORT, you can get a reamer (which isn't cheap) and ream out the chamber, but NOT if it's chrome-lined or nitrided.
For the average shooter the best way to fix a headspace problem is to get a new barrel. If you bought it from Brownells, that's where our "Forever Guarantee" comes in handy! So the myth isn't exactly busted. It IS technically feasible to correct an AR-15's headspace. It's just not worth the cost.
Watch our earlier video, "Can You Mix & Match Bolt-Carrier Groups?" • Smyth Busters: Can You...
Unfamiliar with what headspace is and why it's important?
• Tech Tip: What is Head...
NOTE: Products in this video are to be used only for lawful purposes, including hunting, self-defense, and competitive or recreational shooting. If you purchase any of them, you are responsible for understanding and complying with all federal, state, and local laws that apply to the purchase, possession, and use of these products. - Спорт
Which Bolt and Barrel combos are y'all running?
Full Auto BCG & 11.5 barrel with a 1:7 twist
Bartlein and Wilson 20” match barrels on my competition rifles- whatever BCG. But I stick with whatever bolt the rifle is zeroed with until it needs to be replaced.
A smorgasbord of stuff on my other general purpose rifles - any bcg.
@@SHGVM If were talking general store bought, I'm more of a Bulleit guy.
My main girl: 16" lightweight hanson with a nitride bolt. perfect match on my plastic fantastic.
13.7 BA Hanson barrel w pinned warcomp and the same excellent Brownells titanium nitride lightweight BCG you got sitting on the desk there🏆
Wait you guys are checking head space? The way I check is if it seats it yeets
Some seats may not be yeeting to their full yeetability, but I feel you.
Yeetability has been added to my list of favorite words
It seats it yeets😂🤣😅😆😆😅🤣😂😂🤣😅😆
That's awesome 👌
Just because it seats dosnt mean it yeets.
I saw the aftermath of some special guy that put a damaged/bent m855a1 round in his m4a1 and it blew up the side of his rifle sending him to the hospital.
When in doubt throw it out
Thank you for this 😂
Sometimes AR headspace problems are a tolerance stacking issue. I'd try any other bolts I had lying around first. After that, I'm with you.
Good advice, came here to say this. I'd bet most people building ARs and buying headspace gauges have an extra bolt or bcg.
Where does an AR headspace?
@@woodrowcall3158 inside the barrel extension, there are forward facing surfaces on the "teeth" Those faces have to be a certain distance from the angled portion of the chamber.
So, the chamber has to be cut to the correct depth at the factory to match the barrel extension.
On the bolt, the distance that counts is between the bolt face and the back of the locking lugs.
When the AR goes into battery, the bolt rotates, and the back of the locking lugs bear against those forward facing surfaces inside the "teeth". That brings the bolt face to the correct distance from the chamber.
It's the same as a bolt action with locking lugs - except that the barrel extension acts as the receiver and there are 7 small locking lugs instead of 2 large ones. The large number of locking lugs means a smaller amount of bolt rotation and, because the force is more evenly distributed, the bolt and the barrel extension can be smaller and lighter than the receiver and bolt of a typical bolt action rifle.
@@woodrowcall3158 the other guy has a lot of how the AR works right, but the headspace is measured between the bolt face and the datum point. The datum point on the 5.56 cartridge (like most rifle cartridges) is on the shoulder of the case.
Headspacing an ar-15 isn't too difficult as long as you have the right tools: headspace gauges, bolt disassembly tool, and roll pin punches/holders. Take the bolt out of the bcg, remove the ejector, re-assemble the bcg with the bolt minus the ejector, and insert the bcg and charging handle back into the rifle. With the rear take down pin out and the front take down pin in: tilt the upper forward, pull back the bcg a bit, put the headspace gauge into the bolt, and then lock the bolt forward and try closing the rifle. Rifle should be able to go back together with the go gauge, but with the no go gauge installed it should not allow the bcg to clear the lower and the rifle shouldn't close back up. Pretty sure Brownell's themselves have a video on it.
Yup, built one that didn’t headspace. Tried a couple other bolts I had, they both checked out. Turned out the PSA Premium BCG was not so premium, it’s now a paperweights and reminder.
Great info as always. Need a poll of how many folks actually check their AR-15 headspace....I bet that number's really small.
Never checked mine since it runs fine
@@philgraves7814 it’s just good practice to check. Especially when using different parts from different manufacturers.
I think it is a good idea, especially with 5.56 nato that is high pressure round in its top loading.
There many people that have no ideal of how to use except insert the gage and hit the bolt release allow the BGC to slam home under full spring pressure.
The ABCs of head spacing The AR 15 would be a good topic.
What's a head space?
I assembled an AR from parts by different manufacturers and checked the headspace. Commercially built ARs I own - hard no.
Know what I like about this channel...NO fucking ads!!!!
Technically you're right. But at the same time, the whole video is an ad. For Brownells!
Because UA-cam is anti-second amendment they hate guns@@mobilemechmantim773
I had a bolt/barrel combo that just barely wouldn’t close on a GO gauge. I used a little bit of lapping compound on the back of the lugs and worked it until it closed. Took a few minutes, and the bonus is that lug contact is now even across the lugs. As far as excessive headspace… return the barrel.
Always nice to get accurate info from a trustable source! Keep up the great work !
I was a 2111 in the Marines. In the few times we ran into this we would try a different bolt. If that didnt work we would replace the barrel.
For short chambers, (which are much more common than over sized chambers) it is possible to fix the (short chamber) head space by lapping the bolt to the barrel lugs or even changing the bolt..I have bolts that run in different sizes and I keep them separated, small medium and large to fit problem chambers..Incremental head space gauges are great for measuring bolts..
I’d really appreciate a video from you on how to use headspace gauges.
I’m a rookie when it comes to the AR platform and any help is appreciated.
Here is the YT one ua-cam.com/video/pcVh-XBOLKg/v-deo.html and there is one on our webpage as part of our build series.
@@CalebSavant Thanks Caleb!
Remove firing pin, bolt closes on go, no clozey on no-go. Pretty simple
@@philmarq9915 If you are checking headspace with the barrel already installed on the AR upper, do not remove the firing pin, this is what keeps your cam pin straight and without it you can get the bolt carrier group stuck in the upper.
@@CalebSavant I don’t think I would ever check the headspace with the barrel already in the upper receiver anyways. The same issue that you were talking about with the cam pin could also give you false readings by way of an improperly milled upper not allowing the bolt to cam into full battery. Best to just use the bolt in the barrel.
I'd recommend people buy their headspace gauges and have them before they buy the barrel and BCG. If you buy a barrel and have to wait on headspace gauges, the return window for the barrel may have lapsed.
Excellent advice. Headspace gauges are not expensive.
I am new to this "AR SHIT", but these quite I'll manufactured guns seem like , with all there other problems, are just a pile of junk gun parts dancing in formation, I never heard of buying an expensive gun, only to end up with a piece of shit someone could have built in a garage with pliers and a drill
@@herbertsmith6085 There are several manufacturers that sell total trash at a premium. Luth-AR for example. You get the exact setup you want by building it. An individual "in his garage" can build the same rifle as manufacturers, or better, simply by following the correct process and using the correct materials....and they can do it for cheaper. Sure, there are a lot of fuds out there using loctite on their gas block set screws...but then there are guys like me dimpling the barrel, putting rocksett on the screws and then pinning the gas block, for example. You don't find that from a lot of manufacturers. Let's say I want to run a silencer on a gun with an FSB that is adjustable.......YOU CAN'T FIND THAT GUN ON THE MARKET. You have to build it. And in building it you get the experience and knowledge to fix it, to a degree, if something goes wrong. You don't get that by buying your way into the AR platform. First AR-15 I ever shot was one I built in my garage and I won't be doing it any other way now.
@herbertsmith6085 iv built 3 rifles starting with 80 lowers a drill and my garage with psa parts.... never had a problem.
You need some special skills to fck this up so bad that your gun doesn't work. As long as your parts are in spec and your iq isn't room temperature you can do it.
@@herbertsmith6085 and the reality is that even the Chinese can get right 99% of the time as the tolerances arnt all that tight. If you want to know what pain is try building an ak.
Thank you. If I come up against that problem, I now know what to do about it. I appreciate your knowledge and experience.
30 seconds in and I've got my morning laugh on. . . .A great way to start my day. Thanks
Gotta love these guys. Super-helpful.
I just sent a barrel back because when my AP BCG from Brownells was feeding the ramps of the barrel extension was scratching and denting up the casings and stuff, plus high spots on a couple of the lugs. So just sent it back for a replacement Rosco 13.7 and after it comes back I'm ordering the Brownell's wrenchman 12.625 handguard then the base of my A.P., Magpul, Brownell's and Rosco build will be done and ready to fire. CAN'T WAIT!!!
Papaw ! I love watching you and Jr. put it out there. God bless you, fellars !!! Keepem comin !!! 😁
My DPMS 308ar barrel had a .009" short chamber.
I just lapped
009" off the back face of the bolt. Shots great.
.009 is a lot!
Finally some clarity on this.
I just kept faith that Brownells contracted with quality manufacturers when I got the 20" barrel and chrome non-forward assist bolt carrier for my NCR Service rifle clone.
Is the barrel chrome lined?
I have a set of headspace gauges, a 5.56 throat gauge and a 5.56 throat reamer. SP-1 fine AR-180 made by Sterling Marked 5.56 one tiny burr in the throat. Two new DPMS labeled 5.56 with 1-9 twist both throats were a bit short each took a couple of twists with the reamer to pass the throat check. Both the SP-1 and AR-150 have worked fine with Military ammo the new pair are waiting as my only transport is a bicycle and the range I am a member of is 18 miles away across a Stateline. I am 70 with a bad right knee and right hip. I recommend at least 3 months of food on hand plus medical gear.
All I use to check head space is with a no-go gauge. If it chambers that then I send it back. I believe you don’t need the go gauge or the field gauge. My go gauge is a factory load round. If that chambers it good. If you need to use the field gauge then you’re ready for a new barrel.
No, short chambers will chamber rounds, but can cause pressure, reliability and accuracy problems. I have seen many more short chambers, than over sized chambers..
@@hairydogstail then I would see pressure issues with my brass (blown primers, excessive deformation, difficult extraction). A lot of times with a short chamber just chambering a round and extracting it will show damage to the round. Also When I start with a new barrel I usually use lite loads and work up to a standard load. I very seldom use hot loads as that tends to reduce the brass life and uses up powder that is currently hard to get (reasonable priced). I am extremely cautious starting out until I’m assured everything is okay.
@@oldnumber5866 That will work, just easier to check go and no gauge..If it works for you, that is all that matters..
Thanks for this tutorial!!
Good Video/Info. I always check the Head Space on a New Upper. So far I've never had a Bad One. I agree, Just send it back because Its not worth the time and money to correct it !!!!!!
Glad to see these headspace vids. Fixing to do my first barrel change myself instead of going to a gunsmith. Wish me luck that it works out!
Going with a Faxon match 223 gunner barrel, Riflespeed .625 gas block, and odin 02 handguards.
I’m not the most experienced guy in the world with AR’s but i’ve been pretty successful with The barrel work that I’ve done so far. I’ve been torquing them down to 55 foot pounds After seasoning the threads a few times, and just using the raw spaghetti noodle trick for the gas blocks. but yeah most definitely good luck👍
@@angeldesigns1385 Truly thank you for the tip! I was worried about how to go about lining up the gas block, and was prepared to just wing it. But, your mention of the spaghetti trick seems like a cheap winner of a idea haha.
Still debating on how far to torque the nut, so if 55 worked for you I may aim for that myself.
Planning to do the install next week after testing out my in jail supressor one more time with my current build vs different muzzle devices. I'll give it my best shot! Thanks once again!
@@iPervy Yep no worries👍
@@iPervy You can check what your upper company wants, but the old delta ring nuts torque spec was between 35 and 80 lb ft.
My Aero M4E1 upper wanted 50 lb feet, but you have a pretty good range that should be safe. I would like Caleb to give us a cool answer though.
I had someone lap my upper for a flat face before attaching my barrel and other people have told me that it will effect my headspace.
The problem with that is, headspace is determined by the barrel and extension, not the extention and the reciever. Yes if you lap it down too far you can cause problens, but not with headspace. Your bolt wont be far enough forward for the hammer to hit the firing pin.
Something else that can affect pressure--the leade (or throat or freebore--I forgot the technical term). If the rifling starts too close to the chamber then the chamber pressure can be too high with standard ammunition. Chrome or nitrated barrels will make it hard to change the leade.
I may have encountered that at my local public rifle range where I was one of the range safety officers. An AR-15 on line--a custom match-grade AR-15--was showing signs of excessive pressure including stuck cases and punctured primers when fired using commercial match grade ammunition. I recommended a gunsmith's visit with a couple of fired cases and suggested that there might be insufficient freebore--and the rifling was that was that way to maximize accuracy. If I was correct, it was a matter of just a few thousandths of an inch. At any rate, an expensive gunsmith's visit was called for.
Yup, short chambers will have the same symptoms too. A throat gauge from M-guns is a good gauge to check for a 5.56 throat or chamber gauges from PTG are even better that will check to see if the throat and chamber were cut correctly..
Have you heard the idea that torturing the barrel nut differently will fix it?😂 I laugh every time I hear that one.
Thanks guys
Thank you for explaining it shouldnt be an issue like i thought for the last 25 years of shooting them but the manufacture could screw up so just headspacing is double checking their work
If it's not right,. It's not right!... Thank You brothers! Love your show
YOU TO BORTHER! LETS MAKE A BORTHER BALL!
"You just return the (Bummer) Barrel and we replace it." Bingo and kudos to Brownells.
Yep that’s a going to get a shipping label situation
Great point
Steve and Caleb hit in on the head...space that is..return it..
Yup
Thanks fellas.
Soooooo, where's that headspace check video already?! Thanks guys...
running Aero Percision (NITRIDE but want to send back for the PHOSPHATE C.L.) (it's unused) BCG & a Rosco 13.7
I don't disagree, but I will add another option. I discovered I had four nitride barrels in storage that were out of spec with every bolt I tried. The GO gauge would not go. Even though they were new and unused, the supplier refused to take them back, claiming I was beyond their warranty return period (no, it was not Brownells). For me it was worth purchasing a carbide reamer from Pacific TooI and reaming the chambers myself. This is very much a trial and error process that needs to be attempted extremely slowly. I was expecting the nitride coating to offer some resistance, but the reamer went through the material like a hot knife through butter. I ran the lathe at 600 RPM and squirted some Oatey high sulfur cutting oil in the breeches. The only issue I encountered was operator induced on the first barrel. I cut a few thousandths too deeply, so now even a NO GO gauge will act like a GO gauge. On the other three barrels I just kissed their chambers and that was all they needed. The ruined barrel sits in my trash bin because trying to salvage it is not worth the effort and would require making other parts out of spec.
Nitride is possible, but it will dull the reamer quicker.. If the no go gauge goes it may still be safe. Try to find a set of incremental chamber gauges to see how far from the field setting it is. Hard on brass if reloading but it maybe safe to shoot..
@@hairydogstail Thanks, but since I build them for customers, I don't intend to sell them anything that isn't spec.
@@Paladin1873 Agree, sounds like you have it covered well..I hope your customers appreciate you go the extra distance for them when so many won't..
Recently checked the head space on my new RR upper and the go gauge wouldn't close. I checked it with three different bolts and still wouldn't close. Before I checked the head spacing I shot 60 rounds out of it and it worked fine no torn or ripped brass or primers. I called RR and they told me to run it. Would like to know what you all think?
Hey guys I just remembered a headspace story where the guy had a real headspace issue. About 15 years ago my buddy had a gun shop that was more of a reloading store than a repair shop. Anyway, he sells a guy an AR and a few days later the guy brings it back into the store and is mad as a hornet because he bought a “ piece of blankety-blank” gun that obviously shouldn’t have been sold in the first place. His complaint…. After every shot the brass came out of the gun almost “ripped in half.” He had several cases that were sure enough ripped from the web in the head of the case all the waythrough the mouth. Ripped clean open. So as I’m standing there looking at a destroyed case the thought hit me like a ton of bricks. As Paul Harvey would say at this pint “ the rest of the story” is rolling the case over to the clean side I saw the perfect silhouette of a 7.62X39 chamber. I solved that headspace issue with a simple 5 second conversation. “ You need to use the correct ammunition”
Hilarious, but more common than many would believe..
THANKS
Now im worried lol. I've built a kit before but Im building my first AR from scratch currently. I have a criterion core barrel on the way. So should I return it if the headpsace is too long? I need to do more research on how to check headpsace, im a bit confused lol.
I’d appreciate it if y’all began these videos with a brief overview of what you’re referencing.
I know what headspacing is from my time with an M2, but if someone is watching these videos it’s likely they don’t.
Great videos as always, though.
Check the description, there is a link to a dedicated video on what headspace is.
When you buy a barrel AND bolt / carrier group together are they normally checked for headspace before being shipped to you?
Only if it specifically says they are headspace matched.
Ive had the issue of the BCG not fully engaging into the barrel. With a very expensive custom build lothar Walther barrel. I didnt ask how my RFD fixed it and he didnt tell. He didnt own a reamer 😀
Was his first name Bubba ?
Basically, changing the head spacing on an already assembled AR barrel is impractical. At least when it comes to altering the physical headspace of the barrel.
If you are lucky, it’s just a bit of tolerance stacking, and a different bolt may work. That is, if you have a spare on hand. If not, just return the barrel for replacement.
If it happens on the second barrel too, the bolt you are trying to use may be the problem.
My JP Sauer and Sohns 38H that Grandpa brought back from WW2 fires reliably, and is accurate, but I have been getting hot powder in the face blowing back. Could it be that the barrel is worn out, and/or, that the modern .32 ACP ammo is not good for it? Not using until I sort it out, because I believe that without safety glasses, a person could damage their eyes.
I checked the headspace on a barrel handguard install from jp. They called for red loc tite on the threads… which must be a troll now.
Cuz that seated before i could even torque it fully. I guessed i put atleast 25 lbs on but couldnt get to my torque wrench fast enough. It didn’t budge when “torqued”
Barrel was a faxon 6.5cm 20” 416ss nitride match lr308
Then also changed the bolt out to a small firing pin (jp high pressure lr308 6.5cm bolt) and the thing had a mono-gas ring. It didnt seal at all. Had to buy std 3 piece gas rings and replace.
I like jp products but damn u gotta be a gunsmith to work with them sometimes. Damn “race gun parts”
I have a .300 blackout barrel that has a headspace problem. With the 208 and 220g subsonic rounds, the bullet will engage with the rifling when chambering. When I try to extract the round, the bullet stays, while the case and powder make a mess. It shoot very well with 110-150 grain, so I was tempted to leave it, but I have never attempted firing the heavier bullets.
What or who's barrel ?
@@kuzz7919 Thanks for asking. I'm embarrassed to tell you that it is a company called Ceratac, and it has been a test for me, to see how cheaply I could build a rifle. My first was a Patriot Ordinance Factory (POF), and a few more are Palmetto State Armory. I haven't given up on the cheapest build ever, because I am learning along the way.
@@kuzz7919 Guns and Gadgets had a video that gave me the idea.
@@seanomeirs8362 I'm sorry you ran into that problem. Live and learn trust me I have been there.
I buy my barrels & uppers ONLY when on sale that way I can get quality parts Cheap.
BA Hanson barrels, Brownell & PSA uppers, BCG I use Fail Zero Nibo & PSA.
@@kuzz7919 PSA and POF have been great. I was trying to build an AR for $300, just for fun, and as I mentioned, I have learned a lot. I may just buy a barrel.
Fireform brass, back off the reloading dies, add a bit more powder… Whammo, wildcat round, 5.56 long.
The AR can have a little case head separation, as a treat.
Agree.
I have changed out bolts themselves and found a few thousand s before.
I just got a new barrel from brownells, got a cmc triggers BCG, the go gauge only turns counterclockwise and not clockwise, any suggestions anyone?
I’m debating on getting a prebuilt upper for my new AR308 build or trying my hand at assembling my own upper but the head spacing is the most daunting and frightening aspect of it to me lol
Do you have the proper tools to torque and hold an upper and barrel? If not I would just buy a prebuilt one in the pattern you you prefer.
I would stick with a prebuilt.
Buy a quality barrel and bcg and you’ll have nothing to worry about.
Yep good barrel and pretty much any decent bcg and you should be gtg. Assembly isnt as hard as some make it out too be. Alough an action rod is handy
If you have the proper tools and can follow instructions, you can make it happen. I put my AR-15 together with the help of youtube vidyas made by the old dude from Midway. Also had plenty of written materials to consult. Read thrice, watch thrice, wrench once.
If it ain't right send it back. Got ya.
I put together "built" an AR pistol in 7.62x39 and the bolt carrier jams after each shot and then I have to mortar it to unjam the bolt carrier. Is this caused by the bolt and upper not having the same head space??
Can you custom order a barrel to fit ammunition that you already have for an ar-10 ?
If you send Manson your loaded ammunition they can make a reamer for that ammunition. Then you just need a good smith the cut the thread and chamber.
OK how about this scenario. You have an upper and a BCG and order a barrel. You have to mount the barrel, torque the nut and check headspace. Headspace is off. Can you return a barrel that has been mounted and torqued? Seems cheaper and safer to buy a barrel and upper assy in 1st place.
Depends on the manufacturer but it is easy to check head space before you mount the barrel..
Question: if I purchase this noveske leonidas 12.5” barrel from y’all (brownells) and I purchase a brand new sionics np3 coated bcg. They should headspace correctly? And if I check with brownells go/nogo gauges and something is off, where am I at? Considering the prices and names behind both the noveske barrel and sionics bcg (with OCKS)….they SHOULD go together like pb&j…..right???
I mainly ask because noveske website want $620+++ while it’s available @ brownells for $589…but noveske will headspace the bolt if you buy a bcg from them as well, now we’re talking $850-$900++ and no OCKS on noveske bcg, I WANT the sionics no3!
Caleb needs to do his best Jeff Goldblum... "...so preoccupied with whether you could...you didn't bother to stop and think whether or not you *should* !"
I once got a barrel that seemed it was cut to narrow in the case diameter in addition to the gas port not drilled large enough. Strange
Many manufacturers will re-sharpen their chamber reamers creating a tight chamber. This is why it is a good idea to check chambers with a function gauge as well as proper go/no go gauges at minimum..
You guys are the best!
Some years back guys were buying barrels without extensions (gun show junk), and trying to buy extensions to put on them, and... well, that was a whole fiasco. Another was people selling threading dies so that coming out of the 1994-2004 AWB you could just use that die to thread the end of the barrel and screw a flash hider right on your barrel. Or so they said. That didn't work, either. There are suckers born every minute.
If there's not enough headspace, could you just chuck the bolt up in a lathe (or better a tool and cutter grinder) and remove a tiny amount of the locking face?
If you have access to a lot of bolts you could possibly find one that would pass the go gauge if it is not far off..Much to popular belief, bolts do come in different sizes. You can see this with incremental chamber gauges..
Hell, the barrel you showed us wasn't very good either. I hope you sent that one back also.
Haha. I don't know why someone would do that. Funny to think about though.
I've been hearing for years that I need to check the headspace. I know I do and I'm going to buy a couple of gauges but I have not bought them yet. I also know the odds of my headspace being so far off that I have a catastrophic failure with an AR-15 is extremely slim. An amazing number of people do not want to admit this fact but it's true. I don't know why everything is right the vast majority of the time but it is. Usually even with cheap stuff it works out fine.
I have seen short chambers way more than any oversized chamber in the AR platform, which is why I recommend checking every bolt / barrel chamber with the proper go gauge in 5.56, a 1.4646 go gauge..
I guess I have been lucky, 4 ARs built and have never had an issue with headspace and only one of them was packaged with a bolt.
If you don't check head space, then you have no idea if it it will have issues?? Short chambers are much more common than excessive length chambers..
I’ve had three brand new barrels by three different manufacturers, they didn’t pass headspace. I shipped them all back to the manufacturer. One of them told me it couldn’t possibly be out of headspace. I sent it to him and a couple weeks later I received another brand new barrel.
Stupid question, but could you use barrel shims around the barrel extension for headspace that’s not enough?
Nope, that does absolutely nothing.
@@CalebSavant thanks for the quick answer. Us Crayon eaters can be kinda stupid sometimes. Lol
@@Matt-ms5hi eating is fine. Dun stick em up your nose...
How do you check headroom?
On a factory built rifle, if the barrel comes off to install handguard, will the headspace be the same upon reassembling?
If the barrel/ bolt combination is the same, then it will have the same head space..
@@hairydogstail thank you
Been running the AR platform for years
Bought a Daniel Defense BCG and had head space issues
Called brownell and they suggested one of their BCGs fixed the issue for $70 less
If you have head space gauges, then try different bolt combinations..Bolts come in different sizes, no matter what people say or think..I separate my bolts, small medium large..Changing the carrier has no effect on head space..
Do i need to worry about head spacing when changing a hand guard?
Nope
Well what if no barrel manufacturer out here does not make a barrel specifically for the armalite ar10 and have to go with the lr 308 pattern? I've been trying to find a workaround for this. Be easier if manufacturers just simply made extensions for armalites.
It's fairly obvious that Steve wants to beat Caleb senseless.
Can a gauge for 5.56 be used for 300 blackout?
No, they are different chambers..
I feel like this was an intervention for some of us 😅
How about doing a Smyth Busters on Forced reset triggers and Hellfire triggers being machine guns by definition or not.
Because the definition would simply just change when we proved them wrong.
I know an AR15's headspace can go out of spec after it's been fire enough.
Where is it in the barrel, extension, bolt, or whatever that changes to take an AR15's headspace out of spec?
Typically the lugs in the barrel extension and on the bolt, where they contact each other.
@@CalebSavant Can the extension and/or bolt be replaced to try to fix this problem?
@@viewatyourownrisk The extension is much more trouble than it's worth and by the time it's worn down, you should be looking at maybe replacing that barrel anyways. So even though it is possible (the process is explained in the video) it is not recommended.
@@CalebSavant Thanks Caleb. These vids from Brownells are all pretty great. Cheers!
For it to get out of spec you would have spent so much money on ammo that replacing them wouldn't make a dent in your budget, or you bought one of those Khyber Pass ARs that are made using swiss dark chocolate instead of steel.
Which is better for a 55 grain a 1:7 1:8 are a 1:9 in a 16 inch barrel. I've asked this question to a few people nobody can really give me a answer y'all's thought.
1-9 would be best, 1-8 would work and 1-7 is best for heavier bullets.
1:8 and 1:9 are known to be a bit better, but not by much. Different people using different qualities of barrels will give you mixed answers. In short, a higher tier 1:7 will shoot a 55gr better than a poor/mid tier 1:8 or 1:9, even though "on paper" a 1:8 and 1:9 *should* be better. I personally shoot 500yd steel using 55gr out of a 13.7" 1:7 barrel with no issues, but use a higher tier barrel manufacturer.
I can only speak from my own experience. I have a 1:8, 20" SS bull barrel on one rifle, the other has a 1:9 , 16" SS bull barrel. The 20" is an Ultra-match from Olympic Arms, (no longer in business) the 16" is from Les Baer Custom. At 200 yds, the 20" 1:8 average group with my hand loads is 3/4-7/8". The 16" 1:9 does 1.25" . Yes 55gr. Both have excellent two stage triggers, bi-pod, lotsa zoomies. Not typical setups.
I bought an AR-10 upper assy from Moriarti ... go gauge will not seat. They don't respond so I'm going to ream....
Assuming all your parts are spec from a reputable manufacturer company supplier..........check headspace just to be safe.........I've mixed and matched different bolts barrels and calibers.........only problem I've ever had was cheap bolt lugs breaking off
If head space is too tight, swap in a second bolt and see if it's still tight, then replace the barrel!
It could be the bolt that's not head spacing right. It's not always the barrel.
I really enjoy these videos, but does the introduction of the myth always feel a little awkward and sometimes confusing? 😅 I appreciate you all, regardless. Thanks for posting! 🙏🙂
Just drink some coffee, get a box n shipping label, send it. Or get that loot back 😂
Smith here! If the headspace is short then remove shoulder mat behind the tenon. Too long then remove mat off tenon. Always measure with a depth mic!
Do you mean the bolt lugs? What are you calling a tenon??
Don't tell the wife, or we'll have to return $160,000 worth of milling tools.
Come-on be reasonable.
"The labor in what I just explained is more than you paid for the barrel"...unless your name is Larry Porterfield, then it can be done in under 5 minutes..😆😆😆
Isn't that the guy who stopped making gunsmithing videos? Asking for a friend...
@@CalebSavant I think he did...😄
Swapping out bolts until they find one that works best to mate with the barrel extension is what Criterion ships with…
To much headspace sounds like a personal problem 🤷♂️😁.
im just gonna send it.
Great video.. too bad I am too stupid and I have no idea what you’re talking about I guess I will have to Google it and find out…
Or just read the description and watch the videos listed there that answer your exact question.
@@CalebSavant sorry I’m a little bit slow but I was born that way.. Thank you for your advice
@@thomaslomeo2736 No need to apologize, don't be so hard on yourself bud! Thanks for watchin'!
Is there anything even in those coffee mugs?
This video should answer that- ua-cam.com/video/ztEBmKSTWdY/v-deo.html
Better to say: The Average Builder is not set up to perform the complicated process of altering Headspace. One would easily spend 100Xs the costs of buying barrels even to get the tools necessary to perform the alterations.
With cheap assembled uppers it is not uncommon for the headspace to be insufficient to chamber a factory round; this observation is from my most limited experience. I have seen this several times with BCA assembled uppers. In two of the cases simply trying a bolt from another source allowed chambering of factory ammo. The original bolts were saved and calibers were 300 blackout and 7.62x39. I have seen it also in 5.56 and in that case the upper was sent back for exchange. I have heard of other cases and there was talk of sanding the bolt. A gun smith can lap a bolt face. Sometime a little can be taken off the face of the bolt face even if this is not an approved method for fixing head space.
AR15 upper assembles should be head spaced to the intended bolt at the factory.
To all reading this, NEVER remove material from the bolt face to make up for a chamber that is undersized! This is a safety concern to say the least. *If you bought an assembled setup that does not headspace or chamber properly, it is the manufacturers responsibility to fix it or replace it, it is not their responsibility to pay your hospital bills after you "modify" it.*
@@CalebSavant You're gonna have to police the comment section of bad tips/suggestions. A 4 minute, easy to understand video, and a few scoff at the advice.
@@PAIsIllegal why would that be an issue?
@@jimmyschock9395 It isn't an issue. Not sure why PA2060 thinks it is.
I've had BCA barrels and BCG fail headspace checks. NEVER remove material from the bolt to fix a headspace issue.
Do you really have to completely strip your bolt to test headspace? Can you get away with leaving the ejector in and just take the extractor off?
Lazy???
@@dpeter6396 Yep.
@@JayKayKay7 LOL!!
No, I prefer to check head space with the ejector. It is also recommended to replace the role pin if you remove the ejector. The extractor should be removed, but it is very easy to remove and reinstall....
I just want another "mean comments" video.
Hone it till it fits