Thank you very much for your video you did a great job and it was informative and easy to follow. Young man keep up with the good work your doing, I love seeing young people working with their hands.👍🏽😊
Good job buddy I think you did a great job and you took the time to explain everything . And for what it’s worth I’m so glad to see a young man taking an interest in working on something besides video games and or drugs and partying . Keep fixing and showing us how !! Thank you
Hey boss! I just wanted to let you know you don't need to be so worried about "scratching" the gasket surface with a wire brush. I have done tons of aluminum head work, valve covers and other fine aluminum engine work 2 and 4 stroke and use fine bristle wire brushes frequently to get stubborn gunk or corrosion cleaned up! You don't want to mare the surface or leave any wire bristles behind but a few light scratches will only help the gasket sealants stick and seal. It's like sanding the metal on a car so paint adheres the best! It is important on engines however to make sure you don't remove too much material from head cover surfaces because tolerances are often very tight and you can inadvertently increase compression to dangerous levels. You likely would never do this only cleaning but it is something to be aware of.
No water after new pump kit, found the reason, salt corroded side of housing under impeller plate water was going down not up.. used jb weld to fix corroded area, now water was pushed up to head. Plenty of cooling now
Just a learning experience son....but good job for trying.....never need that much sealer...simple cup grease on the gasket will do...their made to slightly swell with water contact to perform a tight seal....Just built 2 outboards this month
OK, the first thing is to make sure that overboard indicator hose, nipple, elbow isn't plugged with crud. The motor may actually be cooling properly, the indicator is just plugged up. Try blowing backwards through the hose with compressed air. Did the engine pump water before you changed the pump? If so, perhaps you didn't align the water tube properly into the impeller housing. Perhaps something is wrong with the new water pump, is it an OEM part? Unfortunately, these engines suffer from a relatively simple, but time consuming problem.. The upper water tube grommet gets crushed by salt water blocking off cooling flow. The plugged theromstat you mentioned would not stop water from coming out of the cooling telltale... Unfortunately, replacing that upper water tube grommet requires pulling the powerhead off.. Let me know if you need help or have more questions..
@@tine-2-huntwhitetails286 OK, well there are several steps to this, kind of hard to describe all of them. Needless to say, it is much easier on a manual start engine than an electric start model. Is yours a salt water motor? If so, you will probalby need some heat to help loosen up the powerhead bolts (6), and the four bolts that hold the inner exhaust tube to the powerhead. Let me know if you want to talk more about it. Don
@@tine-2-huntwhitetails286 OK, so it is cooling now, but leaking black/sooty exhaust through the top two holes in the exhaust housing where the steering bracket goes through, correct? If so, tell me what year and model this is. Unfortunately, this issue is fairly common on the newer engines with the open inner exhaust tube.. Let me know... Don
@@tine-2-huntwhitetails286 OK, just typed something here and lost it... So you are saying that straight water leaks/pours out in front of the exhaust housing up top near the powerhead, in between the exhaust housing and the vertical steering shaft/tube. Maybe you could post a video here to clarify. Usually water leaking in this area means the seal on top of the plastic water pump hsg is missing/damaged.
can yout tell me where bought parts and make and model of your engine as i believe i have the same exact motor and problem but i have no info for my motor. Thanks
Very useful video thanks. I have the same engine with what looks like the same issue. Do you know the year of the motor or do you have the part numbers please?
OK, you blew through the water tube, now you get some water out of the telltale...I'm thinking is that the grommet is crushed, the compressed air opened it a bit...Unfortunately, I think the problem is still there and will cause you big trouble in the future...
@@floridamansgarage8629 Don't want to rain on your parade here but as others have indicated those gromets are prone to get mashed and swell and choke off the water supply. When that has been fixed, when you rev the engine it should pee out than a hard stream...which I didn't see in this video. While blowing compressed air thru the opening will perhaps get you enough water flow, it won't be enough at a wide open run, or will slowly close back up again. Got to pull the power head and replace those gromets....weak point on these machines.
I agree. Those grommets at the bottom of the power head will collapse on themselves thus greatly restricting the water flow or blocking it completely. Do yourself a favor & order them. I think they are about $13 each plus a new powerhead base gasket.
@@floridamansgarage8629 Not good advice. The thermostat needs to be in place in order to cool properly. Trying to solve cooling issues by pulling the thermostat is a short term "band aid"...
Pull the thermostat...clean it up...go put in pan of water, put on stove bring near boil...see if the thing is opening up as it should...test with a kitchen candy thermo to see when it opens up...if it is lazy..or not opening up...replace it.
Thank you very much for your video you did a great job and it was informative and easy to follow.
Young man keep up with the good work your doing, I love seeing young people working with their hands.👍🏽😊
Good job buddy I think you did a great job and you took the time to explain everything . And for what it’s worth I’m so glad to see a young man taking an interest in working on something besides video games and or drugs and partying . Keep fixing and showing us how !! Thank you
Brass brush doesn't scratch the surface soft brush I use my Dremel tool works slick
Hey boss! I just wanted to let you know you don't need to be so worried about "scratching" the gasket surface with a wire brush. I have done tons of aluminum head work, valve covers and other fine aluminum engine work 2 and 4 stroke and use fine bristle wire brushes frequently to get stubborn gunk or corrosion cleaned up! You don't want to mare the surface or leave any wire bristles behind but a few light scratches will only help the gasket sealants stick and seal. It's like sanding the metal on a car so paint adheres the best! It is important on engines however to make sure you don't remove too much material from head cover surfaces because tolerances are often very tight and you can inadvertently increase compression to dangerous levels. You likely would never do this only cleaning but it is something to be aware of.
Should use a water drum on small outboards not muffs
Mine chunks of the impeller went up the water tube and got stuck in several places
Thank you so much for this good detailed video. I allready start the project on my old Johnson 9,9 👍👍
thank you so much for this video. i have an 89 that isn't pumping water so I will check all this stuff out
Same here, just got my old 80’s Johnson running but no peeing water at all,from the block
Great video. I do want to know exactly where you blow the air. Can you show us or tell me. I have almost the same engine with the same problem.
No water after new pump kit, found the reason, salt corroded side of housing under impeller plate water was going down not up.. used jb weld to fix corroded area, now water was pushed up to head. Plenty of cooling now
Just a learning experience son....but good job for trying.....never need that much sealer...simple cup grease on the gasket will do...their made to slightly swell with water contact to perform a tight seal....Just built 2 outboards this month
OK, the first thing is to make sure that overboard indicator hose, nipple, elbow isn't plugged with crud. The motor may actually be cooling properly, the indicator is just plugged up. Try blowing backwards through the hose with compressed air. Did the engine pump water before you changed the pump? If so, perhaps you didn't align the water tube properly into the impeller housing. Perhaps something is wrong with the new water pump, is it an OEM part?
Unfortunately, these engines suffer from a relatively simple, but time consuming problem.. The upper water tube grommet gets crushed by salt water blocking off cooling flow. The plugged theromstat you mentioned would not stop water from coming out of the cooling telltale... Unfortunately, replacing that upper water tube grommet requires pulling the powerhead off.. Let me know if you need help or have more questions..
Problem was the thermostat opened too hot of a temp got a new thermostat that opened from a cooler temp
@@tine-2-huntwhitetails286 OK, well there are several steps to this, kind of hard to describe all of them. Needless to say, it is much easier on a manual start engine than an electric start model. Is yours a salt water motor? If so, you will probalby need some heat to help loosen up the powerhead bolts (6), and the four bolts that hold the inner exhaust tube to the powerhead. Let me know if you want to talk more about it.
Don
@@tine-2-huntwhitetails286 OK, so it is cooling now, but leaking black/sooty exhaust through the top two holes in the exhaust housing where the steering bracket goes through, correct? If so, tell me what year and model this is. Unfortunately, this issue is fairly common on the newer engines with the open inner exhaust tube.. Let me know... Don
@@tine-2-huntwhitetails286 OK, just typed something here and lost it... So you are saying that straight water leaks/pours out in front of the exhaust housing up top near the powerhead, in between the exhaust housing and the vertical steering shaft/tube. Maybe you could post a video here to clarify. Usually water leaking in this area means the seal on top of the plastic water pump hsg is missing/damaged.
@@tine-2-huntwhitetails286 OK, I'm sorry, you have a Merc, not an OMC.
Can I get a picture of spark plug wiring set up please.
Do you happen to have the part number for all that?
You make me laugh a lot thanks buddy
Great engine! I have a 89
Good job man
Thank you very much.
How did you compress the air in there mine barely pees from the hose thinking this will help it just don’t know how thanks
You gotta take the lower unit off and blow it in the tube that connects to the water pump outlet
Any way to get the t star cover off without pulling the head? Don’t want to have to order a head gasket. Thanks.
can yout tell me where bought parts and make and model of your engine as i believe i have the same exact motor and problem but i have no info for my motor. Thanks
Sure I got all my parts from marinengine.com
Very useful video thanks. I have the same engine with what looks like the same issue. Do you know the year of the motor or do you have the part numbers please?
It was a 1983 Johnson 15hp marinengine.com has all the parts
@@floridamansgarage8629 Thanks for your help!!
Did you remove the thermostat completely?
Great Video!
Great vid in real-time.
I always put silicone that way you know shes sealed good
OK, you blew through the water tube, now you get some water out of the telltale...I'm thinking is that the grommet is crushed, the compressed air opened it a bit...Unfortunately, I think the problem is still there and will cause you big trouble in the future...
Yes still not like it should be
@@135-j Sorry buddy, you will probably end up going after those grommets...Let me know if you have questions...D
Turned out to be the thermostat wasn’t opening properly so I got a thermostat that opens at a much lower temp
@@floridamansgarage8629 Don't want to rain on your parade here but as others have indicated those gromets are prone to get mashed and swell and choke off the water supply. When that has been fixed, when you rev the engine it should pee out than a hard stream...which I didn't see in this video. While blowing compressed air thru the opening will perhaps get you enough water flow, it won't be enough at a wide open run, or will slowly close back up again. Got to pull the power head and replace those gromets....weak point on these machines.
I agree. Those grommets at the bottom of the power head will collapse on themselves thus greatly restricting the water flow or blocking it completely. Do yourself a favor & order them. I think they are about $13 each plus a new powerhead base gasket.
Learn to flush out the motor everytime you come back, with fresh water. I use a gasket emulser and scrap off with a razor blade. GL.
Do you have any parts numbers?
All the diagrams and part numbers are on marinengine.com
, the best way is run the outboard in a Barrell with the water pump area below the waterline.
Don’t run higher than idle on muffs
I change my thermostat and impeller on my honda 8 hp bf8a and still nothing:( any ideas guy
Get rid of the thermostat
@@floridamansgarage8629 You can get rid of the thermo...for use in warm climates...but not where water gets cold, fall and spring....
Leave the thermostat out
In florida you should have just left the thermostat out
You think so? Because it’s been giving me issues and I’ve thought about doing it
@@floridamansgarage8629 Not good advice. The thermostat needs to be in place in order to cool properly. Trying to solve cooling issues by pulling the thermostat is a short term "band aid"...
I change impeller, thermostat still not working
Pull the thermostat...clean it up...go put in pan of water, put on stove bring near boil...see if the thing is opening up as it should...test with a kitchen candy thermo to see when it opens up...if it is lazy..or not opening up...replace it.
Nice repair kid
Ну я сначала не понял почему все так измазано герметиком, а когда увидел чувака с подведенными глазами и накрашенными губами все понял :)