Just used a hole saw for the first time today. This was a great intro video for someone who isn’t terribly skilled at carpentry but needs more handy tips to finish a project!
Dan, Thank you sooo much. I purchased a craftsman hole saw kit with 7 hole saws, it had the mandrel and the adapter, but NO instructions on how these fit together. Needing to use the 2", I put the hole saw on the mandrel and then put the adapter inside the hole saw and was having so much trouble tighting it down. Anyway I send 2 requests to the Craftsman site for help, and also called, but got they were closed (2 hours before the site stated, they would close--maybe Covid caused that situation). I looked at i don't know how many videos over the last few days and not one showed, what you just showed me in yours about what the adapter was and how it worked. I just assembled the 2" hole saw per your instructions, got up went to my cabinet and cut the hole for the microwave extension cord. I couldn't have gotten it without your detailed instructions. I've saved you as my go to when needing assistance with any tools.Blessings to you and yours.
Excellent and informative video. I bought a set of cheap HF hole saws some years ago. Since I've retired I have more time to make stuff. The problem I have is that even though the set has 13 different sizes, I need a 3 1/4" size that did not come in the set, and there is not one sold separately. It would be handy if there was an adapter so that I could put a standard hole saw into the oddball non-threaded, two-flats arbor that came with my current set. It looks like I'm going to have to upgrade. I know you cover safety quite a bit in this video, but there is one thing that you did over and over that made me cringe. You have a loose fitting shirt dangling right there next to the spinning hole saw just waiting to pull you in and cut a hole into your stomach. You need to have a tighter fitting shirt or a longer one that is tucked in. I learned a lot from your video about the design of hole saws without having to tear open packages in the stores to compare to what I have.
I was a little girl and my father taught me how to make simple doll furniture and he also showed me how to do some simple wiring or changing the plugs and so on. I am an artist beside my regulars job and like to make things out of everyday stuff or construction leftovers to make garden art and so on. After all these years I found out that me knowing little about everything is not enough. I went to the local Rona in my area and said I needed the attachment for my drill for cutting a circle in wood. The guy gave me just the saw. Did not ask if I had/needed the arbor. I came home looked at my drill and knew I am missing a piece but did not know what it is called to ask for it. Thank god for you I know it is an arbr or mandrel. I never had the time to take courses on how to use tools and so on. I find that some men in tool shops are not as generous as you or they are sexist and look at me as if I am asking them to give their kingdom away. Thank you for your videos God Bless you
I'm glad to help, and yes, some men are idiots. My wife is one of the smartest people I know, but you only begin to realize that the longer you know her. She went to a Volvo dealer once, and they told her to come back with her husband. Needless to say we did NOT buy from them. And I know the pain of trying to find something you don't know the name of. It is SO frustrating. Feel free to leave a comment on any of my videos asking questions - I'll be happy to help if I can. And good for you for learning something new! In a non-condescending sort of way, of course. 😛
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thanks for your kind reply. Yes I had a similar experience. I once decided to take a course in automotive repair. We were paired and my partner would go early and loosen the screws and hold the engine lose so to create problem for me. I was very young and gave up and became a therapist LOL. I had been told that about come with your husband a few times too. You are right these are unsecure, unintelligent people. I will visit your other videos. Thank you again.
Thanks, very comprehensive. I seen another youtuber recommend using the torque/clutch setting if using a hand drill so if the holesaw grips or binds then the clutch will slip instead of twisting the drill (or the work piece).
Hi my name is Kevin from Aus I notes that you used a g clamp to hold your wood to the bench, but did not use a clamp to hold your vice to your drill table I always bean taught to clamp all things to the table I am a retired mechanical engineer of 56 years in this job , keep going with your videos Kevin Schlipalius Deakin Engineering Aus.
Did my first dryer vent home project and it went really well thanks to watching this video beforehand. lol. Good to prepare for the worst but still do your best. Thanks for posting!!!
I am about to make my first hole saw cut and thought it would be intuitive but decided to watch some videos just in case. Loved your tips of things to be aware of, AND the funny bit of almost going soprano. It wasn’t drawn out and so pertinent compared to any other I have watched on this subject. Thank you! I had to subscribe. :)
So the drill part is important to help keep it centered? If I use the small saws in my kit, do I attach one of my own small drill bits? (it doesn't have one on the small thing) Thank you! Total newbie with hole saws you can tell!
If it doesn't come with a bit, I would think it's designed to fit on an existing arbor. An arbor is the bit-like thing, that has threads that let you screw on the hole saw. The bit really is needed or else the hole saw will just jump all over the place.
When I use hole saw, I score the surface and use another bit to drill on the inside of the hole saw score mark, drill all the way thru then switch back to the hole saw. I found it allows the saw dust, chips to evacuate much faster and allows you to drill much faster and build less heat, also if you have to drill a couple of holes and your saw is a tad bit dull you can at least get the project done.. Down side is the plug is no longer useful as it has a notch in it. Found it useful when I had to drill 48 - 2 1/2" holes thru 1" boards sandwiched together to use as a table to hold CNC milling tool holders. I use this method on thin metals as well.
I find it helpful to pre-drill the pilot hole with out the hole saw on the arbor. Also if you want the cutout without the hole simply use a template board clamped to piece to be used, remove the pilot and saw away. Template is made by drilling the desired hole saw size. Sometimes sawing in reverse prevents grabbing by the saw teeth. One more trick I use drilling soft material such as vinyl soffit etc is to use a steel rod to guide the hole saw helps keep it from wandering cutting in reverse really helps in these materials.
@Joshua Cunningham I worked a few weeks then I got fired for going home ill one day. It was a bad job anyway so I'm fine with it. The hole cutting went well, except for when I drilled one in the complete wrong place.
Very thorough explanation. Nicely done. Another suggestion for preventing burning and improving speed is to drill clear 1 or more clearance near the inside edge of the holes outer rim.
Some of your videos made me smile, this one made me LOL (soprano...). If you cut with the hole saw close to the edge of a board (when that is possible) you reduce the heat build up as well.
Would you please show how to use the circular saw to cut a hole in a wall tile? I did a ceramic backsplash in the kitchen it would be nice to use a tile instead of the plastic plate for plugs. Thank you. Your videos are great.
I don't know how to do that, but the first thing I would do is do a UA-cam search for something like "hole saw ceramic tile". I would expect to have to wade through a few videos that didn't exactly help, but eventually I figure I'd find someone who "spoke my language".
I’ve just bought my first, very cheap, press drill and I want to make a table for it requiring knobs. I now know where I can get some freebies. Thank you very much for all the tips, especially the safety ones.
You're quite welcome. Also check out my knob-specific video: ua-cam.com/video/Di_xHYgCE88/v-deo.html. I'm also doing a video for how to build a drill press table, but it'll be at least a month before it's out, if not longer. Oh, and check this video out also, in case it's relevant: ua-cam.com/video/9kY3fk6Q-kA/v-deo.html. Have fun! 😄
Glad I came across your channel and subscribed. I am newly retired and am in the process of setting up my own woodshop. I have many of the stationary and power tools you have reviewed and find your tips and advice very worthwhile. Great job on the hole saw video. I see myself in many of these situations!. JJC
I’d love a drill press! Thank you, every time I use this I need a reminder of how to assemble! Does it have its own drill bit? I seem to have a normal longer drill bit and the screw tightens o the spiral of the drill bit!? Good tips!
Hi, just purchased a spring loaded mandrel from Milwaukee however I noticed that that when the two posts engage, the hole saw starts to rattle and vibrate around like crazy at low speeds. The hole saw size I'm using is 4 1/8 and is relatively big however I'm not sure if the hole saw is suppose to rattle like that. It feels as if its not tight enough. I looked at other peoples videos including yours and noticed that everything seems to be working fine even at low speeds. Maybe I'm doing something wrong since this is the first time I used a hole saw mandrel but if this continues I'll try my hands on the mandrel that has the threaded nut.
You're right, it shouldn't be loose. So if it is, obviously something is wrong. If you don't see anything obvious, then trying another mandrel is a good idea. The other possibility is that the hole saws you have were made for a different type of mandrel, but usually if that's the case, they won't work at all. Good luck - let me know what happens. Oh, and depending on where you bought the mandrel, you might be able to return it, so don't forget to check that out. I can't tell you the number of times I've forgotten to return something like this. 😄
I learned real fast with my 20” 12 speed 1.5 HP Jet drill press to use a low rpm….I use 300 rpm to cut a 4” hole with my dozer for one of my craft designs, cut low and slow, going to fast such as 1000 rpm or faster made my press shutter and shake which places stress on the spindle and column which could be damaging and expensive to replace
Such good tips! I just burnt it before I found your video! Ok so I don’t want to go all the way through, just a circular recess for a tea light candle? Thanks for your help!
Great video! Question for you....I’m working on a project and I need to drill out the middle core of a synthetic cork, like for a wine bottle, I believe they are made out of plastic, so not the traditional cork you’d see. But I need the core of the synthetic cork to be fully intact, with no hole drilled through the center. Is there a hole saw I can use by itself, without a mandrel being used, so I don’t end up with my cored center with a hold through it. Even though I’ll be placing an eyelet screw in that cork later, I don’t want that hole drilled to be too big so the eyelet screw moves around. Is there a hole saw that can be used by itself? The one I had in mind was the Milwaukee brand Diamond Max 5/16”. It says its for tile and such, but I’m assuming it would work on a small piece of cork. Thank you for amy help you can provide.
Thanks! Yes, I think there are mandrels that you can use without the drill bit. You'd need to carefully clamp the cork-thingy and use a drill press, because without the drill bit in the middle, the hole saw will try to wiggle around as you're getting started.
When I go to the hardware store , paint shop or something like Rona and Home depot, I look at everything and this many times has given me ideas to use every day stuff and make something else LOL I wanted to ask you a question what is the name of the tool that helps putting a screw in an angle in the joining two pieces of wood together.
My King Canada drill press stalls whenever I bring the spindle down with a 4-1/4" hole saw into 1/2 plywood. Is this normal? I barely scratch the surface of the wood and as soon as I put a little pressure, it stalls. :( Any help would be appreciated.
I don't know if "normal" is the right word, but it's not uncommon at all. For me, I have to just touch it to the wood, then kind-of bounce the spindle up and down lightly, repeating throughout the process, trying to *just barely* avoid having it stall out. Especially into hard wood, or hardwood-plywood. But make sure the hole saw isn't dull, and it's clean. Also, try different drill speeds to see if that helps.
You forgot to mention that smoke can also come from the drill!! Lol happened to me. I’m trying to drill through plywood to mount new under cabinet lights. Let’s just say I will be doing a few more test runs through scrap with your useful tips.
So, newbie here. Can you use a hole saw without the pilot to cut a 1" thick wood to make a circle without having the drill hole in it? I did it yesterday and put it in a vice, but I'm wondering what the issue is since no one talks about it, probably for good reason.
No, in general it's not a good idea, because the hole saw will usually jump around before it gets going. It can be dangerous, and depending on the type of wood, it could actually shred the wood. But my question is, why do you care if a pilot bit cuts a hole in the wood? Unless you don't want a hole in the cut-out piece?
@The Newbie Woodworker ahh, I see. Might have gotten lucky. I want the tuit (I believe that's what they are called) to make a round bottle opener. I used 2 frostner bits to create a recess to make the bottle opener flush and then room for the bottle cap to get inserted then I used a hole saw to make the round. I suppose I could insert a wood dowel into the pilot hole...
@@TheSparkIdea If you were using a drill press and had the wood clamped down really well, then I think it would be safe - don't know how well if would work, but it would at least be reasonably safe.. But doing it with a power drill is iffy at best. Just be careful! :)
@@TheNewbieWoodworker yeah I went and bought a vice for the drill press! Works great, just go nice and slow, pretty much followed the rest of your tips. Works like a charm!
@@TheSparkIdea Awesome! Funny tip: I learned that it's a "vise" not a "vice". Apparently a "drill press vice" is something quite different. LOL. By the way, it doesn't matter to me what you call it - I just thought I'd share that.
Yes, I'd make it slower for larger holes. If I remember correctly - maybe it's faster? You know what? I'm not sure. Mess around with speeds and see what happens. (Yes, I know that wasn't much help.)
nice video.. just want to ask a question.. i have mdf cabinet for my aquarium and i need to drill holes for the hose, my concern is how far should i drill the holes from the corner of the wood that wouldn't reduce the cabinet capacity strength? thanks in advance
Thanks, and good question. Drilling holes in MDF can be really tricky, because MDF likes to tear out. So I recommend getting some scrap MDF and experimenting. You'll definitely want to start from one side, then finish from the other side. It should also help you figure out where to put the holes.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker; yes i am doing the half and half approach.. my only concern is how far should the holes should be from the edge of the wood sonit wouldn't reduce its strength
@@TheNewbieWoodworker ahh i see.. i thought there's standards about it.. but thanks a lot though for replying, i greatly appreciate for taking your time.. hopefully someone in the future could make a wood strength test base on hole positioning
Two ideas: - Cut the hole as normal but don't go all the way through, then chisel out the unnecessary material. You should still allow the centre bit to go a bit deeper than the saw, to ensure that the saw doesn't wander off across the workpiece. - Alternatively, make your bed riser in several layers, with the hole cut through only the top one - this is what I did then glued the layers to form the required height.
@@robt2151 Actually, your second idea is a good one. I've used this for several projects, and didn't even think of it. Thanks for mentioning it! Not criticising your first idea, by the way - but your second idea reminded me how well it's worked for me in the past. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Yes, the simple things often get overlooked. I made the riser blocks to the height required then added a matching piece of 6mm OSB (plywood is not commonly available here) with a hole cut through it. With this option it is easier to get the right matching height. Also, bed legs can be quite large in diameter, probably wider than the average DIYer's Forstner bits.
Well, sort of. I generally use a standard drill bit or a brad point bit for the smaller holes, up to whatever size bit you have, which in my case is 1/2", then Forstner bits up to whatever size you have those in, which for me is 1", then hole saws for larger. However, if I had a Forstner bit larger than 1", I'd use that over a hole saw, most of the time. I hope that makes sense.
i've got a hole in a door I need to widen, would I be able to use a hole-saw? the saw will only be sawing part of the door, half in the door , the rest in the existing hole
My whole saw set does not have the posts with the mandrel, even for the larger size hole saws. Do you have a tip for getting that kind of hole saw unstuck from the mandrel?
Possibly. First, sometimes when it cools off, it's easier to get off. Second, maybe WD-40. Third, and this is hard to explain: Basically, drill down into some scrap wood far enough so the hole saw starts cutting into the stock. Then use reverse on the drill, while pressing down on the drill. SLOWLY. Hopefully, that'll get it loose. Let me know if any of this helps.
The Newbie Woodworker I found a tip online that worked like a charm. I bought a socket adapter that fits into my impact driver. On the other end the socket adapter, I put on the socket that fits the hex shaft of the mandrel. I held the whole saw in my left hand and ran the impact driver in reverse and it unscrewed the mandrel from the whole saw, instantly 😊
now after i saw the knob making with holesaws, i stopped throwing small wood parts away. instead i drill one or multiple circles out of them :) great way to get value of even tha crappiest wood chunks from left overs.
well i just trying to drill a hole on my table end up the hole saw break apart guess keep applying pressure from the start is a bad idea should slowly right?
@@TheNewbieWoodworker i try to explain for you first i direct apply hard pressure from the start and i just keep pushing the drill until the saw touch the wood i apply more pressure here and without stopping just keep drill until it start smell burning and the hole saw break apart should check this video first before using it
@@aidentk5158 If you smell smoke, stop! It means you're trying to make the drill/saw/bit do more than it's capable of. But I guess you know that now, right? 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker first time using the saw i don't know and the hole saw break apart and stuck inside the hole i just brought a new saw make sure follow your video this time
First time comment- I really love all your videos. Very detailed and informative. I am been doing woodworking for two years now and every time I run across something new or don’t know how to do things - you my go to Guy. Please keep it coming.👍
I don't believe it is, but I get my left and right mixed up a lot. Whether it is or not, there's no need to tighten it down that much. But you probably already know that, now... 😃
After my first experience it became apparent that all those teeth were overkill. I took an angle grinder and removed all but 4 teeth. the missing teeth make a good place for saw dust to accumulate until I brush them off with a metal brush.
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing. Last week I started to use my hole saws again. I have a cheap set. I noticed that the Milwaukee has written the diameter in millimeters not in (fractures of) inches. Mostly I use the hole saws in my drill press which is not so powerful. (500W or 2/3 HP) For pine (which I just the most) it is sufficient. I don't like the to side method very much. To much work and you need to use the center drill bit. At first I used that center drill bit. But after drilling I could not remove the inner part of the wood. It was clogged in the hole saw (and around the center drill bit) It took me a long time to free it. In the end I succeeded. But drilling a hole in for example one minute and then needing 10 or more minutes to remove the inner part is not really pleasant. So I removed the center drill bit. Slowly I send the teeth of the circle to the wood and slowly I push it down. From time to time I stop. then I continue. This way the sawing process takes a little long, maybe two minutes. But mostly the inner part comes out without problems. And if not a little push with a small screwdriver (through the side holes of the hole saw) or even a nail makes the inner part come out makes it happen, too. So I can continue with the next hole in just a few seconds.
Thanks! Interesting about removing the center piece. There's a couple of UA-cam videos that have various methods for removing it. You might want to check them out.
I'm British but I can use both imperial and metric without any problems and unlike NASA I don't mix them on the same job. I guess because I'm old. 82, I am versatile woth measurements.
Oh how I wish I had watched this before I started using hole saws.....I had a piece wrench the drill out of my hand and hurt my wrist. Fortunately not badly, but it scared the heck out of me.
Unfortunately, I've made ALL of the mistakes that you've made in this video at one time or another in my life. We both went to the School of Hard Knocks. Great video, especially for someone that hasn't had much experience with holesaws. They can bang you up pretty good, pretty fast! Also good for us non-Newbies to revisit these tips again to remind us how to do it properly, and SAFELY! Keep 'em coming!
Thanks! And you're right, of course. It's actually why it took me so long with this video - I kept being reminded of things I had forgotten, and had to add them to the video. :)
"Dan, are you burning holes through wood again?" "Um, no Dear." "Dan, are you demonstrating kickback again?!" "No Dear, definitely not." "Dan!!!! Are you slicing your thumb in two on the table saw again?!?!" "No Dear!" "Don't make me come out there!" Your videos are very informative and entertaining, thank you 👍
Hi...great video..I'm in the process of buying a drill press but I am limited to 730mm hight. I am wanting to holesaw 6" and 4" dia into mdf and also 4mm leather can you recommend any machines you think woud be ok. I dont mint taking it easy when doing the job. Thanks.
Thanks. I wish I could help, but I just don't know enough about drill presses. I recommend going to www.lumberjocks.com/forums and asking there. You'll have to make an account, but it's free.
Came for the ‘how to change an mandrill’, stayed because you do a great job at teaching and have a good sense of humor.
Thanks! That means a lot! 😄
Best hole saw video. Masterpiece 🥹
Thanks! 🙂
Just used a hole saw for the first time today. This was a great intro video for someone who isn’t terribly skilled at carpentry but needs more handy tips to finish a project!
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Dan, Thank you sooo much. I purchased a craftsman hole saw kit with 7 hole saws, it had the mandrel and the adapter, but NO instructions on how these fit together. Needing to use the 2", I put the hole saw on the mandrel and then put the adapter inside the hole saw and was having so much trouble tighting it down. Anyway I send 2 requests to the Craftsman site for help, and also called, but got they were closed (2 hours before the site stated, they would close--maybe Covid caused that situation). I looked at i don't know how many videos over the last few days and not one showed, what you just showed me in yours about what the adapter was and how it worked. I just assembled the 2" hole saw per your instructions, got up went to my cabinet and cut the hole for the microwave extension cord. I couldn't have gotten it without your detailed instructions. I've saved you as my go to when needing assistance with any tools.Blessings to you and yours.
Thank you for sharing that! It's really good to hear from people who were actually helped by a video of mine. Thanks again!
Excellent and informative video. I bought a set of cheap HF hole saws some years ago. Since I've retired I have more time to make stuff. The problem I have is that even though the set has 13 different sizes, I need a 3 1/4" size that did not come in the set, and there is not one sold separately. It would be handy if there was an adapter so that I could put a standard hole saw into the oddball non-threaded, two-flats arbor that came with my current set. It looks like I'm going to have to upgrade.
I know you cover safety quite a bit in this video, but there is one thing that you did over and over that made me cringe. You have a loose fitting shirt dangling right there next to the spinning hole saw just waiting to pull you in and cut a hole into your stomach. You need to have a tighter fitting shirt or a longer one that is tucked in.
I learned a lot from your video about the design of hole saws without having to tear open packages in the stores to compare to what I have.
Thanks for the comment! No worries about the shirt, though - that shirt fits MUCH more tightly than it did when I made the video. 😂
I was a little girl and my father taught me how to make simple doll furniture and he also showed me how to do some simple wiring or changing the plugs and so on. I am an artist beside my regulars job and like to make things out of everyday stuff or construction leftovers to make garden art and so on. After all these years I found out that me knowing little about everything is not enough. I went to the local Rona in my area and said I needed the attachment for my drill for cutting a circle in wood. The guy gave me just the saw. Did not ask if I had/needed the arbor. I came home looked at my drill and knew I am missing a piece but did not know what it is called to ask for it. Thank god for you I know it is an arbr or mandrel. I never had the time to take courses on how to use tools and so on. I find that some men in tool shops are not as generous as you or they are sexist and look at me as if I am asking them to give their kingdom away. Thank you for your videos God Bless you
I'm glad to help, and yes, some men are idiots. My wife is one of the smartest people I know, but you only begin to realize that the longer you know her. She went to a Volvo dealer once, and they told her to come back with her husband. Needless to say we did NOT buy from them. And I know the pain of trying to find something you don't know the name of. It is SO frustrating. Feel free to leave a comment on any of my videos asking questions - I'll be happy to help if I can. And good for you for learning something new! In a non-condescending sort of way, of course. 😛
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thanks for your kind reply. Yes I had a similar experience. I once decided to take a course in automotive repair. We were paired and my partner would go early and loosen the screws and hold the engine lose so to create problem for me. I was very young and gave up and became a therapist LOL. I had been told that about come with your husband a few times too. You are right these are unsecure, unintelligent people. I will visit your other videos. Thank you again.
@@Myidea4 Thanks, and I'm glad to help. Don't feel like you have to watch my videos. If something interests you, then fine. But otherwise, no worries.
what a great tutorial, Thank you, I bought the Milwaukee mandrel, again reall good.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
Excellent through explanation with demo.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
I've spent a couple hours on youtube trying to find this exact video.
THANK YOU. NOT ALL HEROES WEAR CAPES.
😂 Glad I could help!
Thanks, very comprehensive. I seen another youtuber recommend using the torque/clutch setting if using a hand drill so if the holesaw grips or binds then the clutch will slip instead of twisting the drill (or the work piece).
Thanks, and that's a great idea. 😄
No kidding. Covers all aspects comprehensively. Will do with that mindset. Thank you.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome!
I love that you show what happens if you do rookie mistakes!
LOL. Thanks! I make them all the time, so I might as well show them sometimes. :)
Hi my name is Kevin from Aus I notes that you used a g clamp to hold your wood to the bench, but did not use a clamp to hold your vice to your drill table I always bean taught to clamp all things to the table I am a retired mechanical engineer of 56 years in this job , keep going with your videos Kevin Schlipalius Deakin Engineering Aus.
Thanks for the comment, Kevin. I totally admit that I don't clamp as many things as I should. I need to keep an eye on that. Thanks!
Did my first dryer vent home project and it went really well thanks to watching this video beforehand. lol. Good to prepare for the worst but still do your best. Thanks for posting!!!
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
What a thorough video. Thank you for saving me time and money. Great commentary style, too.
Thanks! Sorry I missed your comment until now - UA-cam sometimes "hides" comments for some stupid reason.
I am about to make my first hole saw cut and thought it would be intuitive but decided to watch some videos just in case. Loved your tips of things to be aware of, AND the funny bit of almost going soprano. It wasn’t drawn out and so pertinent compared to any other I have watched on this subject. Thank you! I had to subscribe. :)
Thanks! That was my goal, short and sweet, so I'm glad it helped. I appreciate your letting me know it helped, and welcome aboard! 😄
So the drill part is important to help keep it centered? If I use the small saws in my kit, do I attach one of my own small drill bits? (it doesn't have one on the small thing) Thank you! Total newbie with hole saws you can tell!
If it doesn't come with a bit, I would think it's designed to fit on an existing arbor. An arbor is the bit-like thing, that has threads that let you screw on the hole saw. The bit really is needed or else the hole saw will just jump all over the place.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker thank you!
Extremely helpful video. Just getting into this type of tool. Everything makes sense now.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
You are awesome! Thank you for your knowledge and your valuable tips !!! Thank you so so much!🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 🙂
Extremely well done video on Hole Saws!
Thanks! 😄
When I use hole saw, I score the surface and use another bit to drill on the inside of the hole saw score mark, drill all the way thru then switch back to the hole saw. I found it allows the saw dust, chips to evacuate much faster and allows you to drill much faster and build less heat, also if you have to drill a couple of holes and your saw is a tad bit dull you can at least get the project done.. Down side is the plug is no longer useful as it has a notch in it. Found it useful when I had to drill 48 - 2 1/2" holes thru 1" boards sandwiched together to use as a table to hold CNC milling tool holders. I use this method on thin metals as well.
Thanks! 48 holes?! Ugh, that sounds like a lot of work. :)
I find it helpful to pre-drill the pilot hole with out the hole saw on the arbor. Also if you want the cutout without the hole simply use a template board clamped to piece to be used, remove the pilot and saw away. Template is made by drilling the desired hole saw size. Sometimes sawing in reverse prevents grabbing by the saw teeth. One more trick I use drilling soft material such as vinyl soffit etc is to use a steel rod to guide the hole saw helps keep it from wandering cutting in reverse really helps in these materials.
Good tips! I like the idea of the template board - it would be good for making knobs without holes in the middle. Thanks!
I love your videos. So clear and complete. Always excellent.
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
I'm starting a new job tomorrow and I lied saying I had experience of doing this. Thanks this will help 😂
LOL. Good luck!
@Joshua Cunningham I worked a few weeks then I got fired for going home ill one day. It was a bad job anyway so I'm fine with it. The hole cutting went well, except for when I drilled one in the complete wrong place.
@@Smartacus420 Only one in the wrong place? That's better than me! 😄
Very thorough explanation. Nicely done. Another suggestion for preventing burning and improving speed is to drill clear 1 or more clearance near the inside edge of the holes outer rim.
Good tip. Thanks!
Some of your videos made me smile, this one made me LOL (soprano...).
If you cut with the hole saw close to the edge of a board (when that is possible) you reduce the heat build up as well.
LOL - glad I could brighten your day! And thanks for the tip!
Would you please show how to use the circular saw to cut a hole in a wall tile? I did a ceramic backsplash in the kitchen it would be nice to use a tile instead of the plastic plate for plugs. Thank you. Your videos are great.
I don't know how to do that, but the first thing I would do is do a UA-cam search for something like "hole saw ceramic tile". I would expect to have to wade through a few videos that didn't exactly help, but eventually I figure I'd find someone who "spoke my language".
I’ve just bought my first, very cheap, press drill and I want to make a table for it requiring knobs. I now know where I can get some freebies.
Thank you very much for all the tips, especially the safety ones.
You're quite welcome. Also check out my knob-specific video: ua-cam.com/video/Di_xHYgCE88/v-deo.html. I'm also doing a video for how to build a drill press table, but it'll be at least a month before it's out, if not longer. Oh, and check this video out also, in case it's relevant: ua-cam.com/video/9kY3fk6Q-kA/v-deo.html. Have fun! 😄
Thank you very informative
You're welcome! 🙂
Glad I came across your channel and subscribed. I am newly retired and am in the process of setting up my own woodshop. I have many of the stationary and power tools you have reviewed and find your tips and advice very worthwhile. Great job on the hole saw video. I see myself in many of these situations!. JJC
Awesome! Glad to have you aboard! I always figured if *I* wondered about something, other people must wonder also, so... let's learn together!
Count on it!
I’d love a drill press! Thank you, every time I use this I need a reminder of how to assemble! Does it have its own drill bit? I seem to have a normal longer drill bit and the screw tightens o the spiral of the drill bit!? Good tips!
Thanks! 🙂
Hi, just purchased a spring loaded mandrel from Milwaukee however I noticed that that when the two posts engage, the hole saw starts to rattle and vibrate around like crazy at low speeds. The hole saw size I'm using is 4 1/8 and is relatively big however I'm not sure if the hole saw is suppose to rattle like that. It feels as if its not tight enough. I looked at other peoples videos including yours and noticed that everything seems to be working fine even at low speeds. Maybe I'm doing something wrong since this is the first time I used a hole saw mandrel but if this continues I'll try my hands on the mandrel that has the threaded nut.
You're right, it shouldn't be loose. So if it is, obviously something is wrong. If you don't see anything obvious, then trying another mandrel is a good idea. The other possibility is that the hole saws you have were made for a different type of mandrel, but usually if that's the case, they won't work at all. Good luck - let me know what happens. Oh, and depending on where you bought the mandrel, you might be able to return it, so don't forget to check that out. I can't tell you the number of times I've forgotten to return something like this. 😄
I have one your hole saw but I'm missing the insert that holds the drill bit. Would you be so kind as to tell me where I can get one.
How about this: amzn.to/2G4Txhp
I learned real fast with my 20” 12 speed 1.5 HP Jet drill press to use a low rpm….I use 300 rpm to cut a 4” hole with my dozer for one of my craft designs, cut low and slow, going to fast such as 1000 rpm or faster made my press shutter and shake which places stress on the spindle and column which could be damaging and expensive to replace
👍
I am happy I came across your channel! great video!!!
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
Thank you so much! I'm learning basic stuff and this was explained simply but thoroughly!
Awesome! I'm glad I could help. 😄
Thank you, your video was much more informative than some that are out there and a waist of time.
Thanks! Glad I could help! 😄
Where did you get that extractor hose from please? That looks perfect
I got it from Rockler, but this one looks exactly the same and is half the price: amzn.to/2FtBc0U
Such good tips! I just burnt it before I found your video!
Ok so I don’t want to go all the way through, just a circular recess for a tea light candle? Thanks for your help!
Thanks! For recesses like that, I recommend Forstner bits. ua-cam.com/video/S8dTylBHBCs/v-deo.html. Let me know if this helps.
Great. Thanks from England.
Great video! Question for you....I’m working on a project and I need to drill out the middle core of a synthetic cork, like for a wine bottle, I believe they are made out of plastic, so not the traditional cork you’d see.
But I need the core of the synthetic cork to be fully intact, with no hole drilled through the center.
Is there a hole saw I can use by itself, without a mandrel being used, so I don’t end up with my cored center with a hold through it. Even though I’ll be placing an eyelet screw in that cork later, I don’t want that hole drilled to be too big so the eyelet screw moves around.
Is there a hole saw that can be used by itself?
The one I had in mind was the Milwaukee brand Diamond Max 5/16”. It says its for tile and such, but I’m assuming it would work on a small piece of cork.
Thank you for amy help you can provide.
Thanks! Yes, I think there are mandrels that you can use without the drill bit. You'd need to carefully clamp the cork-thingy and use a drill press, because without the drill bit in the middle, the hole saw will try to wiggle around as you're getting started.
When I go to the hardware store , paint shop or something like Rona and Home depot, I look at everything and this many times has given me ideas to use every day stuff and make something else LOL I wanted to ask you a question what is the name of the tool that helps putting a screw in an angle in the joining two pieces of wood together.
Yeah, I get some of my best ideas that way. To your question, are you talking about pocket hole jigs? Like amzn.to/3CDAlUN or amzn.to/3k16TB8 ?
My King Canada drill press stalls whenever I bring the spindle down with a 4-1/4" hole saw into 1/2 plywood. Is this normal? I barely scratch the surface of the wood and as soon as I put a little pressure, it stalls. :( Any help would be appreciated.
I don't know if "normal" is the right word, but it's not uncommon at all. For me, I have to just touch it to the wood, then kind-of bounce the spindle up and down lightly, repeating throughout the process, trying to *just barely* avoid having it stall out. Especially into hard wood, or hardwood-plywood. But make sure the hole saw isn't dull, and it's clean. Also, try different drill speeds to see if that helps.
Also GREAT IDEA with the index!!
Thanks!
You forgot to mention that smoke can also come from the drill!! Lol happened to me. I’m trying to drill through plywood to mount new under cabinet lights. Let’s just say I will be doing a few more test runs through scrap with your useful tips.
😂
So, newbie here. Can you use a hole saw without the pilot to cut a 1" thick wood to make a circle without having the drill hole in it? I did it yesterday and put it in a vice, but I'm wondering what the issue is since no one talks about it, probably for good reason.
No, in general it's not a good idea, because the hole saw will usually jump around before it gets going. It can be dangerous, and depending on the type of wood, it could actually shred the wood. But my question is, why do you care if a pilot bit cuts a hole in the wood? Unless you don't want a hole in the cut-out piece?
@The Newbie Woodworker ahh, I see. Might have gotten lucky. I want the tuit (I believe that's what they are called) to make a round bottle opener. I used 2 frostner bits to create a recess to make the bottle opener flush and then room for the bottle cap to get inserted then I used a hole saw to make the round. I suppose I could insert a wood dowel into the pilot hole...
@@TheSparkIdea If you were using a drill press and had the wood clamped down really well, then I think it would be safe - don't know how well if would work, but it would at least be reasonably safe.. But doing it with a power drill is iffy at best. Just be careful! :)
@@TheNewbieWoodworker yeah I went and bought a vice for the drill press! Works great, just go nice and slow, pretty much followed the rest of your tips. Works like a charm!
@@TheSparkIdea Awesome! Funny tip: I learned that it's a "vise" not a "vice". Apparently a "drill press vice" is something quite different. LOL. By the way, it doesn't matter to me what you call it - I just thought I'd share that.
Hi, just wondering, do you change the speed of the pull down drill press for the different size of the hole cutter ?
Yes, I'd make it slower for larger holes. If I remember correctly - maybe it's faster? You know what? I'm not sure. Mess around with speeds and see what happens. (Yes, I know that wasn't much help.)
Great information here, thanks for sharing!
Thanks!
nice video.. just want to ask a question.. i have mdf cabinet for my aquarium and i need to drill holes for the hose, my concern is how far should i drill the holes from the corner of the wood that wouldn't reduce the cabinet capacity strength? thanks in advance
Thanks, and good question. Drilling holes in MDF can be really tricky, because MDF likes to tear out. So I recommend getting some scrap MDF and experimenting. You'll definitely want to start from one side, then finish from the other side. It should also help you figure out where to put the holes.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker; yes i am doing the half and half approach.. my only concern is how far should the holes should be from the edge of the wood sonit wouldn't reduce its strength
@@RonaldJayBuayan I don't have a good answer for you, other than drilling some holes in scrap MDF and judging for yourself.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker ahh i see.. i thought there's standards about it.. but thanks a lot though for replying, i greatly appreciate for taking your time.. hopefully someone in the future could make a wood strength test base on hole positioning
@@RonaldJayBuayan 👍
What would you recommend for creating a hole that doesn’t go all the way thru the wood? Example: making a wooden bed riser
A Forstner bit. Check out my video on them: ua-cam.com/video/S8dTylBHBCs/v-deo.html
Two ideas:
- Cut the hole as normal but don't go all the way through, then chisel out the unnecessary material. You should still allow the centre bit to go a bit deeper than the saw, to ensure that the saw doesn't wander off across the workpiece.
- Alternatively, make your bed riser in several layers, with the hole cut through only the top one - this is what I did then glued the layers to form the required height.
@@robt2151 Actually, your second idea is a good one. I've used this for several projects, and didn't even think of it. Thanks for mentioning it! Not criticising your first idea, by the way - but your second idea reminded me how well it's worked for me in the past. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Yes, the simple things often get overlooked. I made the riser blocks to the height required then added a matching piece of 6mm OSB (plywood is not commonly available here) with a hole cut through it. With this option it is easier to get the right matching height. Also, bed legs can be quite large in diameter, probably wider than the average DIYer's Forstner bits.
@@robt2151 Excellent points, and good job. 😄
So you recommend a forstner bit for everything 1 and 1/8 inches and smaller, and a hole saw for everything bigger?
Well, sort of. I generally use a standard drill bit or a brad point bit for the smaller holes, up to whatever size bit you have, which in my case is 1/2", then Forstner bits up to whatever size you have those in, which for me is 1", then hole saws for larger. However, if I had a Forstner bit larger than 1", I'd use that over a hole saw, most of the time. I hope that makes sense.
i've got a hole in a door I need to widen, would I be able to use a hole-saw? the saw will only be sawing part of the door, half in the door , the rest in the existing hole
No, that won't work at all, unless the pilot bit of the hole saw goes through wood. But even then, you'd need to be really careful.
My whole saw set does not have the posts with the mandrel, even for the larger size hole saws. Do you have a tip for getting that kind of hole saw unstuck from the mandrel?
Possibly. First, sometimes when it cools off, it's easier to get off. Second, maybe WD-40. Third, and this is hard to explain: Basically, drill down into some scrap wood far enough so the hole saw starts cutting into the stock. Then use reverse on the drill, while pressing down on the drill. SLOWLY. Hopefully, that'll get it loose. Let me know if any of this helps.
The Newbie Woodworker I found a tip online that worked like a charm. I bought a socket adapter that fits into my impact driver. On the other end the socket adapter, I put on the socket that fits the hex shaft of the mandrel. I held the whole saw in my left hand and ran the impact driver in reverse and it unscrewed the mandrel from the whole saw, instantly 😊
@@paulcalder2792 Awesome! Glad you found a solution! And thanks for letting me know. 😄
now after i saw the knob making with holesaws, i stopped throwing small wood parts away.
instead i drill one or multiple circles out of them :)
great way to get value of even tha crappiest wood chunks from left overs.
Very true!
Well presented but I was hoping for an example of drilling through the side of an already hung cabinet.
Sorry, but showing examples for every way you could use them isn't really practical.
well i just trying to drill a hole on my table
end up the hole saw break apart
guess keep applying pressure from the start is a bad idea
should slowly right?
Probably true, but it's hard to say what happened without having seen it firsthand.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker i try to explain for you
first i direct apply hard pressure from the start
and i just keep pushing the drill until the saw touch the wood i apply more pressure here and without stopping just keep drill
until it start smell burning and the hole saw break apart
should check this video first before using it
@@aidentk5158 If you smell smoke, stop! It means you're trying to make the drill/saw/bit do more than it's capable of. But I guess you know that now, right? 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker first time using the saw i don't know
and the hole saw break apart and stuck inside the hole
i just brought a new saw
make sure follow your video this time
Very helpful, thank you.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 🙂
First time comment- I really love all your videos. Very detailed and informative. I am been doing woodworking for two years now and every time I run across something new or don’t know how to do things - you my go to Guy. Please keep it coming.👍
Thanks! I really appreciate it! Got some new stuff coming real soon now. 😏
In case you didn't realize it, "Dan Thomas" is also me. It's my other UA-cam account, and sometimes I forget to change accounts. 😏
How do you control the vacuum with a remote?
With something like this: thd.co/2DatBOL
Great information. A big help.
Thanks - glad I could help! 😄
Thanks for this!
You're welcome! 😄
great tutr,
but i need to cut circle without make a hole in the middle of it .. how can i ??
I actually don't know. Sorry!
Only here ro make sure the thread isn't a reverse thread.. had to use an impact drill to get it loose... 😅
I don't believe it is, but I get my left and right mixed up a lot. Whether it is or not, there's no need to tighten it down that much. But you probably already know that, now... 😃
To avoid the accident at 6:00, use an impact drill.
Thanks for the suggestion!
philsipad lots of hole saws are 3/8 or 7/16 chuck which won’t fit in an impact
Very informative!!
Thanks! 😄
After my first experience it became apparent that all those teeth were overkill. I took an angle grinder and removed all but 4 teeth. the missing teeth make a good place for saw dust to accumulate until I brush them off with a metal brush.
I've never heard of anyone doing that, but if it works for you, then good on ya.
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing.
Last week I started to use my hole saws again. I have a cheap set. I noticed that the Milwaukee has written the diameter in millimeters not in (fractures of) inches.
Mostly I use the hole saws in my drill press which is not so powerful. (500W or 2/3 HP) For pine (which I just the most) it is sufficient.
I don't like the to side method very much. To much work and you need to use the center drill bit.
At first I used that center drill bit. But after drilling I could not remove the inner part of the wood. It was clogged in the hole saw (and around the center drill bit)
It took me a long time to free it. In the end I succeeded. But drilling a hole in for example one minute and then needing 10 or more minutes to remove the inner part
is not really pleasant. So I removed the center drill bit. Slowly I send the teeth of the circle to the wood and slowly I push it down. From time to time I
stop. then I continue. This way the sawing process takes a little long, maybe two minutes. But mostly the inner part comes out without problems.
And if not a little push with a small screwdriver (through the side holes of the hole saw) or even a nail makes the inner part come out makes it happen, too.
So I can continue with the next hole in just a few seconds.
Thanks! Interesting about removing the center piece. There's a couple of UA-cam videos that have various methods for removing it. You might want to check them out.
Cool video, learned everything I would want to know! Thanks much 😄
Thanks, and you're quite welcome!
I'm British but I can use both imperial and metric without any problems and unlike NASA I don't mix them on the same job. I guess because I'm old. 82, I am versatile woth measurements.
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lol
Great video as always.
Thanks!
Thanks - got what I needed within a minute. brilliant!.... and, edited later, I wish I'd watched it to the end BEFORE i cracked on
Not sure what "cracked on" means, but I'm glad the video helped! 😄
That's great. Thank you so much for all your tips.
You're quite welcome!
Great video!! Thanks
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
Thanks for sharing have a blessed day
Thanks! Nothing like binge watching, huh? 😄
Oh how I wish I had watched this before I started using hole saws.....I had a piece wrench the drill out of my hand and hurt my wrist. Fortunately not badly, but it scared the heck out of me.
Yeah, been there! But it's a lesson you'll never forget, right?
Unfortunately, I've made ALL of the mistakes that you've made in this video at one time or another in my life. We both went to the School of Hard Knocks. Great video, especially for someone that hasn't had much experience with holesaws. They can bang you up pretty good, pretty fast! Also good for us non-Newbies to revisit these tips again to remind us how to do it properly, and SAFELY! Keep 'em coming!
Thanks! And you're right, of course. It's actually why it took me so long with this video - I kept being reminded of things I had forgotten, and had to add them to the video. :)
I call myself, Newbie Juan Kanobee. I may be new to woodworking but when I advance myself a bit more I will be the invincible woodworking Jedi Knight.
Jedi Knights aren't invincible, but it's a noble pursuit. May the Force be with you, young padawan. 😄
Good information
Thanks! 😄
Great video, great tips! Thank you!!
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Thanks
You're quite welcome! 😄
Thanks 💐💐💐
You're quite welcome! 🙂
What is the price in set
All the product links are in the description.
Thanks for the video =)
You're quite welcome! 😄
your are amazing teacher
Thanks! That's very nice. 😄
just learned about baltic bich ply wood thanks even tho I hate plywood
LOL, thanks.
Thank GOD for you, my man....THANKS!!!!! My shit was stuuuuuuck!
You're welcome! 😄
I like that. I will give it a try. Thanks.
@@mykhelderian Glad I could help! 😄
6:18 sec made my day 🤣
😂
Thank you. U
You're quite welcome! 🙂
Don’t forget to clean your hole saws every once in a while. After a while they get gunked up start requiring more effort.
Great tip - thanks! 🙂
"Dan, are you burning holes through wood again?"
"Um, no Dear."
"Dan, are you demonstrating kickback again?!"
"No Dear, definitely not."
"Dan!!!! Are you slicing your thumb in two on the table saw again?!?!"
"No Dear!"
"Don't make me come out there!"
Your videos are very informative and entertaining, thank you 👍
I know you were kidding, but that's a typical conversation in our house. 😂
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Ha ha! That made my day 😂
@@moggridge1 😄
this video saved a lot of guys out there from becoming a suprano
😂
"Hole-saw to the groin".....Not a video you want to be the star of my friend!
Absolutely not!! 😮
Wrong bit🤔
?
I don’t have a wife 😂
LOL.
Hi...great video..I'm in the process of buying a drill press but I am limited to 730mm hight. I am wanting to holesaw 6" and 4" dia into mdf and also 4mm leather can you recommend any machines you think woud be ok. I dont mint taking it easy when doing the job. Thanks.
Thanks. I wish I could help, but I just don't know enough about drill presses. I recommend going to www.lumberjocks.com/forums and asking there. You'll have to make an account, but it's free.
ok thank you for quick reply.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker
@@stewandumps 👍
Great. Thanks from England.
Excellent video. Thanks!!
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Great. Thanks from England.
Great. Thanks from England.