I enjoy the fact that Chelsey looks so relaxed with Jeans and a T-shirt. Tony looks like he can sit down and become a bush. :) Even the cameras matches the outfits!😀👍😜
i dont mean to be offtopic but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Harlan Terrell Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks for your info ! I got a Canon M6 mk2 recently, with my 70-300 usm nano and got my cameras Custom 1 and 2 settings set to either: - Manual mode with 1/2000sec, f8 (much sharper than “wide open”) and auto ISO. Center area continuous auto focus, with one quick button press to change the areas or single auto focus. And high shutter speed (The M6 mk2 has high for tracking priority and high plus). I use it for flying/moving birds. - The other is manual mode with 1/500, f8, auto ISO. Center point focus with subject tracking (like you showed on your Sony) with one quick button to switch between continuous or single auto focus, and one other quick button to zoom in for manual focusing. Set to silent shutter. This mode I immediately switch to, when birds are sitting still ☺️ Works perfectly for me !
I am now more than 75 years old and I feel very difficult to control bigger telephoto lens. So I have changed to landscape photography. I am following your channel since more than four years. You both are fantastic!
Watched this video again after about a year, and it's a nice refresher on the basics required to get your wildlife photography goals accomplished. Thanks again for a great quick summary!
I forget to comment on any videos, but I have learned so much from you two that I need to because I know it will help the algorithm. I have bought all your books, a couple of t-shirts and have watched hundreds of hours of video. I think you two have a great life together because it shows. You deserve all you get in life because you have sacrificed so much and worked very hard. I love you guys!
Thank you for the simple, straightforward and yet brilliant explaination of the different settings. I've watched this video multiple times, I pickup more info as my learning progresses.
Thank you to both of you, I have learned so mucho since I started watching your tutorials like 5 years ago. Please, keep doing this, for all of us who can’t get enough experience as photographers.
Under exposing by 1-2 stops is the best thing I did when shooting raw.. so easy to pull it up in post, with no loss of image quality to equivalent iso 👍🏻
Thank you for writing your books, I've bought 4 of them and they are great, I really appreciate the time and effort you've put into writing such a great guide to photography
Simply one of the best tutorial videos I have watched. I really appreciate your relaxed, natural style with your great knowledge and experience. Please keep them coming. If you can also consider those who do not have the 'top of the range' camera and lens, that would be cool too. The book (photography) you mentioned is great.
One tip I would say is time your shots. This can help especially if you have a slower camera. Maybe instead of spraying 30 frames quickly, try to time your shots and shoot maybe 10 or 20 frames instead, shorter bursts. Yes you will run the risk of missing some shots, but this also helps with the buffer so you have space when you need it versus filling the buffer, because some cameras actually will not let you take the next shot until the buffer clears which in some cases could mean 30 seconds or something. So timing your shots and taking "fewer" shots but giving yourself a small "break" to let the buffer catch up, can be a good balance.
More Chelsea talk plz! More proportional screen time in the dual vids makes ‘em better imo. (I get it though, I also get excited and can use up a lot of words compared to my partner). Love you both, thanks for all the knowledge!
I am so glad you guys made this video. It's great to see you post something that is just about wildlife. I like that you're interested in the kind of photography that I am interested in. You guys rock!
I always learn something new from watching your videos, even when I rewatch it. It would be nice to see your new version of tutorials: sport, landscape, night and portrait.
So glad to hear you shoot SP/TV priority Chelsea, I shoot planes (Jets & props) and when people shoot AP and stop props but have a tack sharp image it drives me nuts as it's not showing movement because they props show no spinning.
Great video and awesome tips for shooting wildlife photography. Love that while you are recording the video, you are still focused on capturing wildlife! :)
Some great tips guys but at the end of the day it is all about what works for you. My personal preference with my wildlife photography is to set the camera on manual but with auto ISO. That way I can control the aperture and speed and the ISO will correct for the light levels. Most of the time my aperture remains constant so I just have to adjust the shutter speed depending on the action. I am also able to use exposure compensation whilst in those settings. Thanks for sharing guys. Cheers Keith
I use A7RIV spot metering small, and it has been incredibly good for finding bird eyes in crazy difficult situations, but I do have some exposure issues occasionally and would like to try "evaluative" metering, just to see if it avoids what you point out, the crazy under-over exposures. What I cannot figure out is where that setting is (what it's called) in the A7RIV menu.
Well said, in addition, if your lens comes with a focus limiter, use it, that way you don't have to worry about keeping your focus distance in the ballpark.
I sometimes use a flash to get rid of the harsh shadow. Flash is great for low light or midday. I shoot with the Tamron 150-600mm g1 on the Canon 77D, and sometimes I have to zoom out, find the bird, focus, then zoom back in, and refocus.
One exposure trick that's never mentioned anymore, but was common knowledge in the film days, is to meter off a neutral object falling in the same light as the subject. So for birds in flight, meter off a patch of grass falling in the same light as the birds (even those in flight). If the bird is in direct sunlight, meter off grass in direct sunlight. If the bird is in the shade of a hill/trees, meter off the grass in similar shade. Never fails and I nail exposure EVERY time. No exposure compensation, no guessing. Manual mode, meter off the grass so the exposure dial is on zero (correct exposure) at the appropriate shutter speed you need. The only disadvantages of this technique are: (1) when the sun keeps going in and out of the clouds you have to keep taking a new reading off the grass, and and (2) if the birds are flying from direct light into shade (or vice-versa) then it won't work as you'll only be able to expose for one lighting scenario at a time. I usually meter for the direct light and make a quick manual adjustment as the bird reaches the shade.
I must be missing a trick using silent shutter? I have had instances of rolling shutter when I use it on my A7R3 - maybe I should save it for better light or stationary subjects.
By the way, using two back buttons like Tony mentioned is a form of pre-focusing. Use the single (or 4-pt, 8-pt expansion) to get the focal plane set on a flying bird, then hit the other button to turn on all the AF points to let the camera grab and hold the bird. This doesn’t work well on most canon bodies but it does work great on the 1DX3! The problem is that only a relative few bodies are advanced enough to let you program two back buttons, sadly.
You guys should do a shoot-off and each take photos of the same thing, have us vote which one we like the best and then reveal who's photo was who's. Just a fun idea long time fan!
Since I do nearly all wildlife these are things I will add. I use the memory modes. Mode one is set for action which has a shutter speed 1/2500(priority), a larger AF area with continuous, multi-area balancing, high frame rate and mechanical shutter with an auto ISO range limiter with a higher base level (400). Mode two is set for more still/perched which has a 1/500 shutter (still priority), small point AF area with continuous, center point balancing (largest size of this option), slow frame rate with electronic shutter and auto ISO with a lower base level (200). Why not use a base ISO of 100? Well I use Topaz denoise which is amazing.
I still love my 7Dii for it's speed. I like my 5Div sensor more but the 7Dii is faster overall. I consider myself lucky to have both available to choose from.
M50 with the sigma 100-400mm is a fantastic wildlife set up for me, always use the large jpeg , the canon setting for jpeg works well, less post editing more fun shooting.
10:40 I had to learn the aperture lesson about long lenses and small birds the hard way. Could've skipped it if this video was around back then. Fortunately I had seen another old video. It discussed the idea of using the shutter speed that definitely works, and then progressively dropping to half. That has been very effective. Then again hopefully I don't have to think about this anymore. I only shot birds because COVID-19 restrictions meant that there was nothing else.
Chelsea, you said that when you shoot white birds like the swan you drop your exposure compensation to get great feather detail. Does dropping EC mean negative numbers. Also, when shooting black and white birds do you change EC?? Thank you and I really enjoy your videos and thank you for sticking with Nikon. Too many have changed to canon of others
Most of the people this vid is aimed at are beginners in wildlife as those been doing it a while know whats what, the buffer subject is spot on for those with entry level cameras with small buffers, i have the Canon M50 as my first camera and it is great for wildlife, i use the sigma 100-400 with and without the x2 and i always use the largest size jpeg in high burst, in that mode you can just take one or two shots or a string of shots,. i also find that with the canon jpeg settings its been perfectly fine everytime i tried raw and it took the fun out of photography for me as a hobbyist shooter. if i edit a pic its because i want to not because i have too like in raw, more time shooting less time in post works for me.
I bought the Stunning Photography book, excellent. Now I am considering buying Lightroom. Is Chelsea's book update? are you planning a new version soon?
Great books, I think I have them all. Video's are great, I'm trying to master my D500, so far it's smarter tham this old lady. I keep watching the video. Thanks for your help.
Wait a minute here. You say to use a single AF point in the center. I wasn’t going to argue that point as I assumed you were addressing the fact that most people have lower-end cameras and may not have better options (all of the XD Canon bodies do have better options than a single point in the center). But then you talk about using two back buttons. That is not a feature found on low-end cameras. It is an excellent idea but if one can use two back buttons than one can also use 4-pt and 8-pt expansions (Canon talk) and get much better tracking for moving birds than a single point. So, y’all just didn’t think this through fully. And, by the way, I am a Stunner and I learned everything I know from you guys. But y’all need to come down here to S.C. and let me give you a refresher course on wildlife! Ya been in the studio too much, guys! Spend some real quality time in nature to get your mojos back!
I wanted to pursue wildlife photograpy but I have a T7 and it has 9 AF points and its super slow. I get decent shots but I can't improve upon until I have better lenses or better body. But its challenging as an amateur so I still plan to pursue it. I'd like it if you could have some tips for wildlife on beginner bodies/lenses
Another ? I record both jpg and awr (a la Sony) and usually edit just the jpgs, turn to the raws when I have a difficult correction. But when all is said and done, to share, or print the image, I have to convert to .jpg. So how does that preserve all the benefits of raw?
RAW or jpeg is not a dilemma with seasoned enthusiast nature & wildlife photographers. We are about 10 such photographers that use various gears and always shoot in RAW exclusively. We belong to various professions and post-process the files as per our convenience later. Quite often we set out on such missions in groups. BTW, two of us use MILCs, with one exclusively while the other uses both.
Great - so much practical information in a short video! One question, at 10:54 Tony mentioned using manual mode, auto ISO, & setting f-stop to get sufficient depth of field. This is how I typically have my camera set for all types of photography. This functions like an auto mode, but both my shutter speed and DoF are controlled. What is the downside of this for everyday use?
The main downside is that the camera will overexpose when using a slower shutter speed and plenty of light, because the ISO can't shift below it's lowest ISO (usually ISO 64-200 depending on your camera). I learned this the hard way when I had shots overexposed and thus ruined.
@@TonyAndChelsea Thanks so much for that voice of experience! I tend to go for higher f-stops, looking for more DoF with macro/close-ups. Also, I worry that on quick shots I won't get the focus right on a surprise wildlife shot. So often it's f/8 and be there! Love your videos!
Quang Pham he's a wildlife photographer they had as a guest once a few years ago. He only shoots JPEG and he came off as very arrogant and condescending. Worst guest ever.
Hi Tony and Chelsea! I am trying to focus on fast moving birds, like terns, and I find it difficult to focus on them when they are relatively close.. any tips?
Thank you this is very important to learn, because I have had the issue with my camera slowing down, and I blamed the battery so I stopped to check the battery; doing so gave the camera time to process.
If I'm shooting RAW (usually 12-bit) + JPEG (normal) to a single card in my Z50 - would that slow down my frame rate or fill the buffer faster? Is this a bad approach? I also have a D7200 with dual card slots (I write RAW to one and JPEG to the other).
Hi T & C, just a quick question. I own an Ai-S 400mm F2.8 manual focus lens with a D5300 & D300s but was wondering if it may be easier to use on full frame because I struggle with nailing focus at times and usually use it at F4 or higher. I might have an opportunity to get a D3X but not sure if I should
@@TonyAndChelsea I am in South Africa where a used D500 goes for $1500. I would love to get one so maybe I will try and save up. I currently have two manual primes, the Nikkor-Q 135mm f2.8 (which only works with non-AE cameras like the D5300) and the Ai-S 400mm f2.8, the reason I got them was the price and haven't been disappointed with their quality.
I used a D5300 and it holded up pretty well with my Sigma 150-600mm C, now i use the D500 and its a world differance. I would suggest you to get a Tamron/Sigma 150-600mm if you shoot something that is moveing fast. Instead of FF Camera get a lens with AF motor, but in the end it depends what you are shooting. I shoot mostly Birds and i need an AF Motor in my lens to keep up with those birds flying, landing, lifting up.
Is it possible to have a camera in aperture priority and auto ISO with f-stop also in auto mode? That seemed to be what Chelsea was saying she uses at about 10:30 in this video.
The very best You Tube channel for wildlife photography and education on the subject is Steve Perry's Backcountry Gallery. He is a master wildlife photographer, not a jack of all trades. I only wish that I knew half of what he knows. He has been a Nikon DSLR shooter but now does some mirrorless work. If you want real life reviews on cameras, lenses, tripods and mounts you will get it from him...
Thanks so much guys for the tip to boost my shutter speed even higher. I've been moving between 1/500 or so for perched Birds and around 1/1000 and 1/2000 at the highest for flying birds trying to keep my ISO as low as possible. Now I see in sunny situations and anytime except in the lowest light it's better to bump that shutter speed on up to get rid of those tiny Bird movements and motion blur. I watched your video yesterday and today saw an Osprey with a fish in bright sun in a dead treetop beside the lake and with a faster shutter speed every shot with the d500 and sigma 150-600mm was so sharp and in focus! I could just pick amongst all of the usable shots which ones I wanted. Some butterfly and bees moving among flowers images came out great also. Thanks so much for all of the help that you give to so many photographers, take care and be safe!
I enjoy the fact that Chelsey looks so relaxed with Jeans and a T-shirt. Tony looks like he can sit down and become a bush. :)
Even the cameras matches the outfits!😀👍😜
I only saw Chelsea, isn't Tony just doing voiceovers?
Lol
i dont mean to be offtopic but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Juan Tobias Instablaster :)
@Harlan Terrell Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Love to see you are still so excited about shooting, like two kids at Christmas. Stay safe.
From one bird nerd to another, I love any tutorials about bird photography!
Same! Wildlife is so fun to photograph; you never know what you're going to get. Keep crushing it!
Never been able to find a video like this one where everything is explain simply and clearly. Brilliant, thankyou. Really helped me!
Thanks for your info !
I got a Canon M6 mk2 recently, with my 70-300 usm nano and got my cameras Custom 1 and 2 settings set to either:
- Manual mode with 1/2000sec, f8 (much sharper than “wide open”) and auto ISO. Center area continuous auto focus, with one quick button press to change the areas or single auto focus. And high shutter speed (The M6 mk2 has high for tracking priority and high plus). I use it for flying/moving birds.
- The other is manual mode with 1/500, f8, auto ISO. Center point focus with subject tracking (like you showed on your Sony) with one quick button to switch between continuous or single auto focus, and one other quick button to zoom in for manual focusing. Set to silent shutter. This mode I immediately switch to, when birds are sitting still ☺️
Works perfectly for me !
I am now more than 75 years old and I feel very difficult to control bigger telephoto lens. So I have changed to landscape photography. I am following your channel since more than four years. You both are fantastic!
Watched this video again after about a year, and it's a nice refresher on the basics required to get your wildlife photography goals accomplished. Thanks again for a great quick summary!
OMG, Chelsea, you nailed that Osprey look. I have so many pics of “that look”
I forget to comment on any videos, but I have learned so much from you two that I need to because I know it will help the algorithm. I have bought all your books, a couple of t-shirts and have watched hundreds of hours of video. I think you two have a great life together because it shows. You deserve all you get in life because you have sacrificed so much and worked very hard. I love you guys!
Thank you for the simple, straightforward and yet brilliant explaination of the different settings. I've watched this video multiple times, I pickup more info as my learning progresses.
Thank you to both of you, I have learned so mucho since I started watching your tutorials like 5 years ago.
Please, keep doing this, for all of us who can’t get enough experience as photographers.
Under exposing by 1-2 stops is the best thing I did when shooting raw.. so easy to pull it up in post, with no loss of image quality to equivalent iso 👍🏻
Absolutely true. Overexposing is the worst!! Keep crushing it this year mate.
Thank you for writing your books, I've bought 4 of them and they are great, I really appreciate the time and effort you've put into writing such a great guide to photography
Wow, thank you!!
Simply one of the best tutorial videos I have watched. I really appreciate your relaxed, natural style with your great knowledge and experience. Please keep them coming. If you can also consider those who do not have the 'top of the range' camera and lens, that would be cool too. The book (photography) you mentioned is great.
One tip I would say is time your shots. This can help especially if you have a slower camera. Maybe instead of spraying 30 frames quickly, try to time your shots and shoot maybe 10 or 20 frames instead, shorter bursts. Yes you will run the risk of missing some shots, but this also helps with the buffer so you have space when you need it versus filling the buffer, because some cameras actually will not let you take the next shot until the buffer clears which in some cases could mean 30 seconds or something. So timing your shots and taking "fewer" shots but giving yourself a small "break" to let the buffer catch up, can be a good balance.
Wonderful! Thank you! Especially the second button for focusing on birds against the sky. Gotta set that up right now. Stay well, you two!
I'm pretty sure I can't set up a button on a Canon (7D ii) to do a change of focus clusters like this, but would love to be proved wrong..
I like how you split this video up, easy to come back to and reference.
More Chelsea talk plz! More proportional screen time in the dual vids makes ‘em better imo. (I get it though, I also get excited and can use up a lot of words compared to my partner). Love you both, thanks for all the knowledge!
I am so glad you guys made this video. It's great to see you post something that is just about wildlife. I like that you're interested in the kind of photography that I am interested in. You guys rock!
I love all these tips. So good to see you get out a little bit.
That's what's so great about wildlife photography, you can even do it from your back garden! Keep crushing it.
I always learn something new from watching your videos, even when I rewatch it. It would be nice to see your new version of tutorials: sport, landscape, night and portrait.
So glad to hear you shoot SP/TV priority Chelsea, I shoot planes (Jets & props) and when people shoot AP and stop props but have a tack sharp image it drives me nuts as it's not showing movement because they props show no spinning.
Always sound advice and information from the two of you. A must-have subscription. 👽👍👍👍
Great video and awesome tips for shooting wildlife photography. Love that while you are recording the video, you are still focused on capturing wildlife! :)
Thanks for the D7200 shoutout, Tony! The buffer may be small but the camera body is a workhorse... I love it! 💕 📸
Yes it is a fantastic budget wildlife setup. Gotta love that crop factor, can never get close enough!
Always like when you guys update a previously covered topic. There is always something new to learn. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Chelsea do you mind telling the lens you were using. Thanks
Hi Tony and Chelsea , do you turn off the IS for rapid shooting in the lens and camera or do not touch them, handheld? thank you
Outstanding tips great value of your experience and real habitat situations have a wonderful day of imaging
Birds be like "Look those two have started tallking to the camera......lets have some fun with them."" 😂😂😂
What lenses are you using in this video?
Could you please discuss the various AF area modes. Especially 3D tracking vs Dynamic area AF.
Check the tutorial for that specific camera at sdp.io/tutorial
I recommend looking for the channels by "Steve Perry" and "Mark Smith", they both have great explanations of the Nikon af system.
Tony is such a nerd 😅. Love them both. Great content...
I really enjoy you guys I learned alot from you. I notice you ues a 1.4 TL . Do you ever use a 2x and if not why.
Some great tips guys but at the end of the day it is all about what works for you. My personal preference with my wildlife photography is to set the camera on manual but with auto ISO. That way I can control the aperture and speed and the ISO will correct for the light levels. Most of the time my aperture remains constant so I just have to adjust the shutter speed depending on the action. I am also able to use exposure compensation whilst in those settings. Thanks for sharing guys. Cheers Keith
I use A7RIV spot metering small, and it has been incredibly good for finding bird eyes in crazy difficult situations, but I do have some exposure issues occasionally and would like to try "evaluative" metering, just to see if it avoids what you point out, the crazy under-over exposures. What I cannot figure out is where that setting is (what it's called) in the A7RIV menu.
Have you done a video on settings for sports photography and if not could you please. I'm looking into getting a Sony A7r mark 3 or 4.
Well said, in addition, if your lens comes with a focus limiter, use it, that way you don't have to worry about keeping your focus distance in the ballpark.
Have you ever tried the Olympus dot sight for birds in flight? It looks like a good idea but would appreciate a review....
I sometimes use a flash to get rid of the harsh shadow. Flash is great for low light or midday.
I shoot with the Tamron 150-600mm g1 on the Canon 77D, and sometimes I have to zoom out, find the bird, focus, then zoom back in, and refocus.
Awesome tips for great photography... thanks for sharing
One exposure trick that's never mentioned anymore, but was common knowledge in the film days, is to meter off a neutral object falling in the same light as the subject. So for birds in flight, meter off a patch of grass falling in the same light as the birds (even those in flight). If the bird is in direct sunlight, meter off grass in direct sunlight. If the bird is in the shade of a hill/trees, meter off the grass in similar shade. Never fails and I nail exposure EVERY time. No exposure compensation, no guessing. Manual mode, meter off the grass so the exposure dial is on zero (correct exposure) at the appropriate shutter speed you need.
The only disadvantages of this technique are: (1) when the sun keeps going in and out of the clouds you have to keep taking a new reading off the grass, and and (2) if the birds are flying from direct light into shade (or vice-versa) then it won't work as you'll only be able to expose for one lighting scenario at a time. I usually meter for the direct light and make a quick manual adjustment as the bird reaches the shade.
I must be missing a trick using silent shutter? I have had instances of rolling shutter when I use it on my A7R3 - maybe I should save it for better light or stationary subjects.
By the way, using two back buttons like Tony mentioned is a form of pre-focusing. Use the single (or 4-pt, 8-pt expansion) to get the focal plane set on a flying bird, then hit the other button to turn on all the AF points to let the camera grab and hold the bird. This doesn’t work well on most canon bodies but it does work great on the 1DX3! The problem is that only a relative few bodies are advanced enough to let you program two back buttons, sadly.
You guys should do a shoot-off and each take photos of the same thing, have us vote which one we like the best and then reveal who's photo was who's. Just a fun idea long time fan!
I love this topic and Tony's nerdy stuff!
Such a great summary video!
Thank you, E!
The two things I got from this video is that the Nikon D850 has the loudest shutter I've ever heard and that is the biggest lens hood I've ever seen!
Since I do nearly all wildlife these are things I will add. I use the memory modes. Mode one is set for action which has a shutter speed 1/2500(priority), a larger AF area with continuous, multi-area balancing, high frame rate and mechanical shutter with an auto ISO range limiter with a higher base level (400). Mode two is set for more still/perched which has a 1/500 shutter (still priority), small point AF area with continuous, center point balancing (largest size of this option), slow frame rate with electronic shutter and auto ISO with a lower base level (200).
Why not use a base ISO of 100? Well I use Topaz denoise which is amazing.
I wish I would’ve seen this years ago!! Basically stopped using my 7DMK2 and now using the M50, until R5!! Thank you
I still love my 7Dii for it's speed. I like my 5Div sensor more but the 7Dii is faster overall. I consider myself lucky to have both available to choose from.
M50 with the sigma 100-400mm is a fantastic wildlife set up for me, always use the large jpeg , the canon setting for jpeg works well, less post editing more fun shooting.
Getting the R6, keeping the 7DMK2 for the range, more pixels on subject, unless the R5 has a crop mode like Nikons do.
Daniel Garcia doesn’t the R and RP have a crop mode? If so, I don’t see why the R5/6 wouldn’t. I’m counting on it.. HaHaHa
Tony I found my 200-400mm not so sharp on a7r4. Is there any tips for sharp images with this setting?
Is AV on canon also a good mode to shout?
10:40 I had to learn the aperture lesson about long lenses and small birds the hard way. Could've skipped it if this video was around back then. Fortunately I had seen another old video. It discussed the idea of using the shutter speed that definitely works, and then progressively dropping to half. That has been very effective. Then again hopefully I don't have to think about this anymore. I only shot birds because COVID-19 restrictions meant that there was nothing else.
Haha that lens makes Chelsea look so small! And the lens distortion made it look like she's holding a bazooka when it was in the corner of the video.
Chelsea, you said that when you shoot white birds like the swan you drop your exposure compensation to get great feather detail. Does dropping EC mean negative numbers. Also, when shooting black and white birds do you change EC?? Thank you and I really enjoy your videos and thank you for sticking with Nikon. Too many have changed to canon of others
Yes and yes. Be sure not to overexpose the white parts of the bird.
Most of the people this vid is aimed at are beginners in wildlife as those been doing it a while know whats what,
the buffer subject is spot on for those with entry level cameras with small buffers, i have the Canon M50 as my first camera and it is great for wildlife, i use the sigma 100-400 with and without the x2 and i always use the largest size jpeg in high burst, in that mode you can just take one or two shots or a string of shots,.
i also find that with the canon jpeg settings its been perfectly fine everytime i tried raw and it took the fun out of photography for me as a hobbyist shooter.
if i edit a pic its because i want to not because i have too like in raw, more time shooting less time in post works for me.
I bought the Stunning Photography book, excellent. Now I am considering buying Lightroom. Is Chelsea's book update? are you planning a new version soon?
Great books, I think I have them all. Video's are great, I'm trying to master my D500, so far it's smarter tham this old lady. I keep watching the video. Thanks for your help.
Great video , Learned Lot of Things
Wait a minute here. You say to use a single AF point in the center. I wasn’t going to argue that point as I assumed you were addressing the fact that most people have lower-end cameras and may not have better options (all of the XD Canon bodies do have better options than a single point in the center). But then you talk about using two back buttons. That is not a feature found on low-end cameras. It is an excellent idea but if one can use two back buttons than one can also use 4-pt and 8-pt expansions (Canon talk) and get much better tracking for moving birds than a single point. So, y’all just didn’t think this through fully. And, by the way, I am a Stunner and I learned everything I know from you guys. But y’all need to come down here to S.C. and let me give you a refresher course on wildlife! Ya been in the studio too much, guys! Spend some real quality time in nature to get your mojos back!
Awesome video. Thanks for all the details.
Question, Tony do you shoot Chelsea in the raw? Loved the video. Thanks for the info. I love the Nikon D850. 👍👍
I always like these videos but when they put up the lenses to take the 📷 photo, that's when I smashed the like button! 📷🐝🐲🐘🐦
I wanted to pursue wildlife photograpy but I have a T7 and it has 9 AF points and its super slow. I get decent shots but I can't improve upon until I have better lenses or better body. But its challenging as an amateur so I still plan to pursue it.
I'd like it if you could have some tips for wildlife on beginner bodies/lenses
Another ? I record both jpg and awr (a la Sony) and usually edit just the jpgs, turn to the raws when I have a difficult correction. But when all is said and done, to share, or print the image, I have to convert to .jpg. So how does that preserve all the benefits of raw?
Do you have any tip on looking out for stationary birds on the go? Beside studying certain bird habit and using binoculars and etc.
RAW or jpeg is not a dilemma with seasoned enthusiast nature & wildlife photographers. We are about 10 such photographers that use various gears and always shoot in RAW exclusively. We belong to various professions and post-process the files as per our convenience later. Quite often we set out on such missions in groups. BTW, two of us use MILCs, with one exclusively while the other uses both.
Great - so much practical information in a short video! One question, at 10:54 Tony mentioned using manual mode, auto ISO, & setting f-stop to get sufficient depth of field. This is how I typically have my camera set for all types of photography. This functions like an auto mode, but both my shutter speed and DoF are controlled. What is the downside of this for everyday use?
The main downside is that the camera will overexpose when using a slower shutter speed and plenty of light, because the ISO can't shift below it's lowest ISO (usually ISO 64-200 depending on your camera). I learned this the hard way when I had shots overexposed and thus ruined.
@@TonyAndChelsea Thanks so much for that voice of experience! I tend to go for higher f-stops, looking for more DoF with macro/close-ups. Also, I worry that on quick shots I won't get the focus right on a surprise wildlife shot. So often it's f/8 and be there! Love your videos!
How do you reduce or manage buffer time?
I'm sure Moose Peterson would dislike this video no matter what...
I thought this same thing within 10 seconds of watching this!
Who is he/she?
Quang Pham he's a wildlife photographer they had as a guest once a few years ago. He only shoots JPEG and he came off as very arrogant and condescending. Worst guest ever.
"Moose here"!!
@@JohnDrummondPhoto I'm going to watch that if i can find it.. i need a laugh right now.
Hi Tony and Chelsea!
I am trying to focus on fast moving birds, like terns, and I find it difficult to focus on them when they are relatively close.. any tips?
I have been photographing wild live for only 2years i use a nikon d500 and apature priority is this ok
Hi Tony, request you to review Fujifilm XT4 with Fuji 100-400 mm lens for wildlife and compare the results with D500 & A9. Thanks
Thank you this is very important to learn, because I have had the issue with my camera slowing down, and I blamed the battery so I stopped to check the battery; doing so gave the camera time to process.
If I'm shooting RAW (usually 12-bit) + JPEG (normal) to a single card in my Z50 - would that slow down my frame rate or fill the buffer faster? Is this a bad approach?
I also have a D7200 with dual card slots (I write RAW to one and JPEG to the other).
Outstanding as usual. 👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸
Canon 6d or 77d? Beginner on a budget interested in stills. Help?
Very nice video. Thank you Chelsea and Tony👏👏👏
Hi T & C, just a quick question. I own an Ai-S 400mm F2.8 manual focus lens with a D5300 & D300s but was wondering if it may be easier to use on full frame because I struggle with nailing focus at times and usually use it at F4 or higher. I might have an opportunity to get a D3X but not sure if I should
I'd get a used D500 (about $850 at sdp.io/d500) if you have the budget; the focusing system will change everything for you.
@@TonyAndChelsea I am in South Africa where a used D500 goes for $1500. I would love to get one so maybe I will try and save up. I currently have two manual primes, the Nikkor-Q 135mm f2.8 (which only works with non-AE cameras like the D5300) and the Ai-S 400mm f2.8, the reason I got them was the price and haven't been disappointed with their quality.
I used a D5300 and it holded up pretty well with my Sigma 150-600mm C, now i use the D500 and its a world differance.
I would suggest you to get a Tamron/Sigma 150-600mm if you shoot something that is moveing fast.
Instead of FF Camera get a lens with AF motor, but in the end it depends what you are shooting.
I shoot mostly Birds and i need an AF Motor in my lens to keep up with those birds flying, landing, lifting up.
Very nice presentation.thank you 💕👍🙏
Great tips.Thanks! How about a quick video on using a wide angle lens?
Is it possible to have a camera in aperture priority and auto ISO with f-stop also in auto mode? That seemed to be what Chelsea was saying she uses at about 10:30 in this video.
Very helpful video on settings for wild life. Thanks
Thanks again, Tony and Chelsea!
Your videos are always great
One practical tip - a perched bird singing will vibrate and needs a faster shutter speed, otherwise there’s possibly motion blur on its body.
The very best You Tube channel for wildlife photography and education on the subject is Steve Perry's Backcountry Gallery. He is a master wildlife photographer, not a jack of all trades. I only wish that I knew half of what he knows. He has been a Nikon DSLR shooter but now does some mirrorless work. If you want real life reviews on cameras, lenses, tripods and mounts you will get it from him...
Wonderful summary. Thank you.
Amazing video as usual!!, Can you talk about Aviation photography?
Thanks!
4:55 - Love that checklist!
What is the name of lens in Chelsea's hand?
THANK you for this.
Thanks so much guys for the tip to boost my shutter speed even higher. I've been moving between 1/500 or so for perched Birds and around 1/1000 and 1/2000 at the highest for flying birds trying to keep my ISO as low as possible. Now I see in sunny situations and anytime except in the lowest light it's better to bump that shutter speed on up to get rid of those tiny Bird movements and motion blur.
I watched your video yesterday and today saw an Osprey with a fish in bright sun in a dead treetop beside the lake and with a faster shutter speed every shot with the d500 and sigma 150-600mm was so sharp and in focus! I could just pick amongst all of the usable shots which ones I wanted. Some butterfly and bees moving among flowers images came out great also. Thanks so much for all of the help that you give to so many photographers, take care and be safe!
Great tips. Look forward to reading the books!!
Hello can you guys test the Sony R4 with the 200-600G?
👏👏👏 wha trail is that ? I like shooting Osprey in the old saybrook causeway
Great video, thank you.
Any time I've missed a wildlife/bird shot it was because I was fighting with AF, not buffer (7D Mk2).
Have the same camera, never had a buffer problem, af is good just have to get used to it and adjust the case.
Nice Tips on wild life
Is it distortion that makes Chelsea’s lens hood look so long or is that real!? Man, when she holds it up toward the sky, it seems huge!