Feel free to check out my courses on photography mastery. FREE TUTORIAL ON POST-PROCESSING ► ua-cam.com/video/8pw12PBLqII/v-deo.html JOIN MY POST-PROCESSING COURSE ► tinmanclass.com/dts2 JOIN MY PHOTOGRAPHY MASTERY COURSE ► tinmanclass.com/swp2yt1
Anyone can talk about photography and gear. Almost no one can talk about the things the higher experts on the field say and do. This is why I subscribed, to get access to that privilege knowledge. I follow ALL the best photography youtubers and you are THE ONLY ONE that has ever mentioned tips and things that the pros do. That's prime knowledge right there. Definitely a great value for anyone.
@@TheGoodContent37 really appreciate it. I’m preparing for a series of videos where I will go deep and be brutally honest of what works for me. Thank you for your support.
One of the best at describing the process of creating a story with a photo. The reference to the potential (or loss of) for a sale is brilliant. By mentioning other respected photographers, you bring deeper connections to the craft. You clearly show that photography is a thinking man’s game. Bravo!
Nice tips. Many thanks for these. The short video of the bear mother walking towards the camera and the bear child just appearing a bit later unexpected out of nowhere is genious. I love it. 👍❤️
I'm an architectural photographer so I don't often learn that much from other kinds of photography experts like you. But, I can use everyone of your tips in my work. Thanks for some great education about the technical side of using my camera.
Wow. I have never seen such incredibly beautiful wildlife photos. They really speak to me. They're so much more than documentary records. Thank you. You are a true artist.
Great video! Two questions: 1) If you're using the appropriate minimum shutter speed (say, 1/2000 for small birds) and keeping your aperture wide open, how do you simply choose to use a low ISO? Aren't you just bound to the lowest ISO that will properly expose the subject? And if your metering is correct, won't auto-ISO do that for you? I've always thought of using low ISO as the objective for every shot---but with wide open aperture and shutter speed determined by the wildlife, you have no choice in ISO. It's the only variable to change to get your exposure right, and you keep it as low as possible. But it will often be much higher than you like, especially when shooting--as you recommend--in low light conditions. 2) How do you quickly adjust ISO for proper subject exposure without using auto ISO when shooting fast moving wildlife, like birds moving between areas of very different lighting (e.g., woodland areas with dappled lighting)? Seems like if you're always trying to adjust for ISO you will frequently miss those shots that require very fast reaction time. Thanks again for the content! Really useful stuff.
Very good questions. Maybe I will address those in a separate video. As for choosing the lowest iso, I look at the real time rgb histogram or zebra (in Sony) while dialing the iso to make sure to expose to the right if it’s low light situation. As for birds flying from bright area to shadow, or animals moving from bright to shadow back and forth, using Auto iso plus 2/3 with matrix or evaluating metering is a good idea. Lately I don’t use auto iso. I just think about which shot I aim to get. Whether I like the animal in shadow or bright, and get in position to aim for that shot and give up the others that wouldn’t lead to an epic shot.
@@TinManLee That makes sense--thanks for the reply! I think auto ISO with a fast shutter speed will continue to be my "walking around" setting so I can react to unexpected shots; but I really like the idea of the goal being more intentional, finding the right light and background for the epic shot, where you can take a bit more time to dial in the settings and minimize ISO as much as possible. Thanks again for the great videos.
Valuable information with no filler. You just get to the point and you're very clear about what works and why. I got a lot out of this and I've been shooting for forty years. This is terrific. I want to watch your other videos.
Wow. I have never seen such incredibly beautiful wildlife photos. They really speak to me. They're so much more than documentary records. Thank you. You are a true artist.
Your prescriptions match my experience. This is a breath of fresh air! I've grown tired of those who try to shame photographers who give priority to shooting wise open.
I'm a beginner bird photographer and have a beginner kit with the nikon d7500 body and the 70-300 af-p DX Nikkor lens. Most information I got recommended that I shoot atleast f8 for birds. @300mm the widest I can shoot is @f6.3. on the field I have kept switching between different f values especially between f6.3 and f8/9 and contrary to the advice I received, I found my images to be sharper @f6.3 than f8. I don't know the reason for this. Could be that 2/3 stop of higher shutter speed or the 2/3 stop of iso value I reduce to compensate for the more light that might be giving me sharper results or it could be that this particular lens is sharper wide open @300mm.
@@josephnevin yes most of the advice is to go for f7.1 or f8. And the cost was higher iso slower shutter also more details in the background which all contributed to lower image quality. I can understand some camera company wants you to do f8 because some zoom lens is sharper at f8 but that requires the subject to be stationary lol which never happens in nature.
Your prescriptions match my experience. This is a breath of fresh air! I've grown tired of those who try to shame photographers who give priority to shooting wise open.
Possibly the best wildlife tutorial video have seen. Of course I subscribed. Thank you. BTW, I tested your advice to sharpen the heck out of an image at full size then scale down for social media. great advice.
This video popped into my feed as I had never viewed any of your previous work. It was helpful and well presented. I have shared it as well as subscribing. Thank you, Tin Man Lee! Gina in NC, US
Tin Man you are becoming a guru! All these tips are on point, essentially the first two. I only own 3 lenses, a 400mm f/2.8, a 600mm f/4, and a 135mm f/2!
Some terrific tips but in my opinion some tips that will make the people that cannot afford the mega pixel cameras, or the equipment needed to edit those same photos think they can never achieve great photos, same as requiring lenses that are well over the $5000 mark here in Canada to get the shots. I shot back when digital cameras were first starting to appear on the scene and captured some fantastic images in my time the only difference, I had to work a bit harder to make it happen and I wasn't going home with a hundred or more great shots for the day but 1-10 and was happy with that. Don't forget that part of your viewing audience are people who buy even entry level cameras and they are the onces that keep the companies doors open to produce the amazing work horses that are out there in camera land today. With all that said I liked the way you presented so you have gained another subscriber.
Very well said and I totally agree. Thank you for subscribing. I admit I’m just too obsessed to try to get the ultimate difficult shots in low light lol. I did see some of my friends getting wonderful shots in low light with tamron 150-600 or some of those super zooms. Which is exactly what you said. They had to work harder. They had to miss quite a lot of shots in one encounter to get a few decent shots also by really pushing the iso and expose to the right. And it’s still possible. After some years I realized that those low light action shots were what I was really interested in so I wanted to maximize my opportunity. And with mirrorless a lot of the zoom lenses focus pretty quickly these days. I hadn’t tried like the Sony 200-600 in super low light. Some said they are fast. But I did see friends with zooms that their cameras wouldn’t focus while I was already taking pics for 15 mins or so with the prime. Another option would be to buy some used prime lens from few generations back. They are a lot heavier but the focusing speed is still lightning fast such as the old 500 f4. Very good points thanks a lot.
Wow! Your video blew me away, -am amateur photographer and thank you so much for making such a easy to understand video as I found most videos too technical to understand and love your photos. Looking forward to more videos!
Good point. I see it more of “borrowing” because these cameras and lenses preserve value really well. I once bought a $5000 lens and used it for a few years and was able to sell it $5500 used because the price of the new lens actually increased.
Thank you for your insights. You did a great job explaining real world issues regarding taking the best photos utilizing key techniques. I'm a new photographer, and you have given me a great base to work from.
Copy this. I 'm an retired amateur photographer so I don't often learn that much from other kinds of photography experts like you. But, I can use everyone of your tips in my work. Thanks for some great education about the technical side of using my camera ... /// THX ;)
Fantastic pointers! I've dipped my toe into wildlife but I mostly photograph dogs. Surprisingly, anything slower than 1/1250 will produce motion blur with my speed demons. 🤣 Thank you so much for the video! I can't wait to put some of these tips into practice!
I shoot my dogs from time to time. I don't use very short shutter speeds because the images look frozen. You want to show a motion in the picture. Just like when you shoot cars, you need to follow the subject and let background show motion blur.
Thank you for the video. I’m just trying out wildlife photography, so for now I’m just using my iPhone and a telephoto lens until I know I want to get more serious. I’ve been doing it for a couple weeks and my photos have gotten better, but sharpness is still a challenge. I know there’s a limit to what my phone can do, but I hope your tips will help with my very basic setup.
Phone and telephoto lens is a good start and it’s so lightweight you can bring everywhere. It’s always a good idea to rent a big camera for a weekend to give it a try and compare before you make a decision.
Great! Now l finally know that in order to get sharp photos l only have to get the camera with the most pixels ($), the fastest lens possible ($$), a lot reach/telephoto ($$$) and of course, its preferable with a fullframe ($$$$)😬 Thats 4 pro tips right there… One is never too old to learn new things😁👍 Lovely photos by the, the gear, l mean the tips, must be working. The one tip that recomand that you’ll look for clear background was a good one. I seems obvious now that you told us, but l always gets so eager when something exciting, a hawk or a falcon shows up, that l immediate start shooting. With regards to iso, l have also been told that the newer gear are so good that iso up to 6400 are of no problems for a modern camera. I am not that good in holding the camera still and often suffers from motion blur, so l regurlary shoot with auto iso and with min. shutterspeed between 1/320 and 1/500. More when things move.
If money is not a concern, I would get the Sony A1 and Sony 400 2.8. If money is not a concern and you can get it in stock, then Nikon z9 and z400 2.8 (wait list is usually months if not years)
Hi there, please can you help me on how to set my canon camera EOS 1500D to capture best picture of people. Will look forward to hearing from you soon. Thanks
For shooting flying birds (e.g eagle), (1) what metering modes (e.g. spot, center weighted) and AF-Area modes should be set ? (2) what is the priority? shutter speed, ISO, aperture, and exposure compensation thanks.
Some cracking Tips there, many I already knew but a few I didn’t so it was a great watch. Thanks for taking the time to put out this video! I always say every days a school day! Keep up the great work. Also some cracking images shown as examples. All the best Rich 👍
I purchased my first camera during COVID and bought the Sony a6400. While it takes great photos, it is superior with its video capabilities. I am looking to try a new camera body and upgrade and wanted to know if you had any suggestions.
hi, could you point me in the right direction, i have a 420mm-800mm lens and when i attach it to my canon 700d i get an error message, is there a way to connect the two to get it to work, much thanks
I would like to add a few tips: pre-focus on something of a similar distance to the subject and use your AF limiter on the lens. Furthermore shutter speed is not only related to the subject speed, but also depending on your distance to the subject and lens focal length used. Background is highly depending on your location; in a rain forest you just have to deal with the situation at hand. Using back-button AF helps and dual AF buttons even more so you can quickly switch from eye/animal-tracking to spot AF. I must say that letting go of the 'lowest ISO' philosophy brought me more sharp photos. Just use the correct exposure and DXO/Topaz will do a great job in post processing. If I have the luxury of time, then I'll give lower ISO a go. And the highest frame rate doesn't always deliver (at least not on the R5) as rolling shutter can be more evident from over-correction of the image stabilization. Also be aware that higher MP cameras have more issues with heat shimmer.
Very good points. I used to do prefocus on digital SLR. But for mirrorless with eye focus it’s quite challenging to do prefocus without any eyes to focus on. It’s actually one of the biggest problem of mirrorless but lately the eye focus is so good that it’s no longer a problem for me. Good point about relative distance and shutter speed. Are you using canon? Canon can switch spot and eye with back button. But with Nikon and Sony it’s not as easy for me. Good to hear that you are able to get good shots with topaz and dxo. They are indeed powerful. I used to do most of my work from 1600-8000 range but lately I’ve been having fun with lower iso.
I agree with all your points. I'm also getting excellent results at all reasonable ISOs with DxO PureRAW. I'm grateful that Tin Man Lee was careful to say "if you can afford it..." because I cannot afford a $12,000 f2.8 400mm prime lens with a 45-megapixel full-frame camera to bring in more light and lower the ISO. When Mr. Lee shoots at ISO 100 at f2.8, my Sony 200-600mm f5.6-6.3 lens is multiples of that ISO with the same shutter speed.
Your tips were very helpful and 2 tips were knew for me. High mega-pixel related resize and prepare a background. I am using background well but preparing makes more sense.
Hello, thank for those tips. Talking about lens, according your experience, which one would you buy for wildlife (small birds) for Nikon Z camera? NIKKOR AF-S 600mm f/4E with FTZ II adapter or NIKKOR Z 600mm f/6.3? Both are good lenses, one has bigger aperture, the other is lighter and native for Z mount. I checked some of your videos and you talk a lot about having the lens with the bigger aperture, but you also mentioned to get the newer lens too. Ideally would be the NIKKOR Z 600mm f/4 TC but that is out of my budget
Very informative , thank you for enlightening us. Also the way you mentioned other notable people in the video shows your high ethical standards and respect for elders, a trait of our Asian culture, keep sharing 🙏🙏
My 70-200 2.8 Rf and 100-500 RF are pretty similar in terms of focus speed. So I don’t sign this ”wider the aperture the quicker it is” at least what comes to focus speed. Usually it is focus motors on the lens and camera model that affects it. In some cases same lens on R5 is different while comparing to R3 and other way around. For example 105mm 1.4 sigma is better in R5 than in R3 and also 70-200 RF. Some smaller primes are quicker focusing in R3 when comparing to R5 (with the same lens on). Of course some expensive 600mm f4 primes can be quicker in focus speed but price is much more.. btw. You didnt mention that in 100-500 RF there is this small switch that u can use to make it even faster to focus when there is more than 2.5m range to the subject..
Very good point. In bright light there really is no difference in AF speed for most of the zoom lenses and prime lenses. But it happened to me time and again when I was with other photographers during low light in sunrise and sunset, that I was taking sharp photos with my 400 2.8, and their 80-200, 100-400, 100-500 still couldn't even focus for quite a few minutes. So they ended up missing all the shots in those critical moments when the mood was the best. lol I didn't mention the 2.5m thing because everytime I switched to that mode, the birds and the animals came within the minimum focusing distance and I have lost countless shots and those were the best ones.
Great video!! thanks for all these precious tips! I have a question not related to the tecnical part of photography but to the human part, how do you prevent dangerous situations when you are very close to dangerous animals? and how do you know when you are too close to them and how do you act in those situations?
Very good question and a very important topic. Indeed a lot of beginning photographers didn't know the danger when they get close. I've had opportunities to talk to many wildlife guides, and one thing is to observe the facial expression and body posture of the animal ALL the time. If they are agitated, most of the time they show it. The same species can behave completely different at places where the habitat is clear (without lots of tall grass and trees), vs places when they are hunted, to places they see a lot of tourists everyday. Also the abundance of food source makes a difference. I recently had an interview with a professional bear guide. Maybe you can check that out first and let me know if you have any more questions. ua-cam.com/video/YruDM5VUxLk/v-deo.html
@@TinManLee thank you very much for your fast answer! I would love to know more about this because I think it's one of the things that prevents me to enjoy wild life photografy in the first place, if I feel unsafe I won't go out to take pictures, but I would love to win my fears if they are unjustified! Your tips already proved me that you can be safe while being close to wild animals if you follow certain rules, but I'm still quite worried, so if you will do a video specifically focused on "good practices" on how to behave with wild animals I'll be the first whatching it! Thanks again for all your amazing videos!
I chose the shoot without autofocus. Because it had happened to me that sometimes the action is so fast and the camera thought it’s not in focus but I saw clearly it had already grabbed focus but it just wouldn’t take photos and it’s heart aching.
Very good question! Hadn’t had time to go into those. Nikon and Sony have very good ISO invariance. Canon is worse so ETTR is more critical. Less effect for Nikon and Sony. How are you doing?
Feel free to check out my courses on photography mastery.
FREE TUTORIAL ON POST-PROCESSING ► ua-cam.com/video/8pw12PBLqII/v-deo.html
JOIN MY POST-PROCESSING COURSE ► tinmanclass.com/dts2
JOIN MY PHOTOGRAPHY MASTERY COURSE ► tinmanclass.com/swp2yt1
Hi Tin, are you working on new course ?
Anyone can talk about photography and gear.
Almost no one can talk about the things the higher experts on the field say and do. This is why I subscribed, to get access to that privilege knowledge. I follow ALL the best photography youtubers and you are THE ONLY ONE that has ever mentioned tips and things that the pros do. That's prime knowledge right there. Definitely a great value for anyone.
@@TheGoodContent37 really appreciate it. I’m preparing for a series of videos where I will go deep and be brutally honest of what works for me. Thank you for your support.
Exactly.
I felt the same thing and decided to subscribe halfway through the video.
Tip 89 : be rich
Cold hard facts
If you pick up any hobby and do it seriously, it will cost you time and money. I mean anything, no matter what it is.
@@felixlamblin1708 bird and wildlife photography really isn’t for the faint of heart.
One of the best at describing the process of creating a story with a photo. The reference to the potential (or loss of) for a sale is brilliant. By mentioning other respected photographers, you bring deeper connections to the craft. You clearly show that photography is a thinking man’s game. Bravo!
That's so very kind of you. Thank you! It's so much fun, so much thinking for this artistic endeavor indeed.
Nice tips. Many thanks for these. The short video of the bear mother walking towards the camera and the bear child just appearing a bit later unexpected out of nowhere is genious. I love it. 👍❤️
I'm an architectural photographer so I don't often learn that much from other kinds of photography experts like you. But, I can use everyone of your tips in my work. Thanks for some great education about the technical side of using my camera.
😮
Y😅ijh😊😊😊🎉
❤ ma really be y
these are professional tipps and no bla bla , helped a lot, thanks for this
Wow. I have never seen such incredibly beautiful wildlife photos. They really speak to me. They're so much more than documentary records. Thank you. You are a true artist.
Great video! Two questions: 1) If you're using the appropriate minimum shutter speed (say, 1/2000 for small birds) and keeping your aperture wide open, how do you simply choose to use a low ISO? Aren't you just bound to the lowest ISO that will properly expose the subject? And if your metering is correct, won't auto-ISO do that for you? I've always thought of using low ISO as the objective for every shot---but with wide open aperture and shutter speed determined by the wildlife, you have no choice in ISO. It's the only variable to change to get your exposure right, and you keep it as low as possible. But it will often be much higher than you like, especially when shooting--as you recommend--in low light conditions.
2) How do you quickly adjust ISO for proper subject exposure without using auto ISO when shooting fast moving wildlife, like birds moving between areas of very different lighting (e.g., woodland areas with dappled lighting)? Seems like if you're always trying to adjust for ISO you will frequently miss those shots that require very fast reaction time.
Thanks again for the content! Really useful stuff.
Very good questions. Maybe I will address those in a separate video. As for choosing the lowest iso, I look at the real time rgb histogram or zebra (in Sony) while dialing the iso to make sure to expose to the right if it’s low light situation. As for birds flying from bright area to shadow, or animals moving from bright to shadow back and forth, using Auto iso plus 2/3 with matrix or evaluating metering is a good idea. Lately I don’t use auto iso. I just think about which shot I aim to get. Whether I like the animal in shadow or bright, and get in position to aim for that shot and give up the others that wouldn’t lead to an epic shot.
@@TinManLee That makes sense--thanks for the reply! I think auto ISO with a fast shutter speed will continue to be my "walking around" setting so I can react to unexpected shots; but I really like the idea of the goal being more intentional, finding the right light and background for the epic shot, where you can take a bit more time to dial in the settings and minimize ISO as much as possible. Thanks again for the great videos.
Fantastic tips and well presented. Thank you sir!
Valuable information with no filler. You just get to the point and you're very clear about what works and why. I got a lot out of this and I've been shooting for forty years. This is terrific. I want to watch your other videos.
Wow. I have never seen such incredibly beautiful wildlife photos. They really speak to me. They're so much more than documentary records. Thank you. You are a true artist.
Thank you! Very informative - and what fantastic images.💖
Your prescriptions match my experience. This is a breath of fresh air! I've grown tired of those who try to shame photographers who give priority to shooting wise open.
I'm a beginner bird photographer and have a beginner kit with the nikon d7500 body and the 70-300 af-p DX Nikkor lens. Most information I got recommended that I shoot atleast f8 for birds. @300mm the widest I can shoot is @f6.3. on the field I have kept switching between different f values especially between f6.3 and f8/9 and contrary to the advice I received, I found my images to be sharper @f6.3 than f8. I don't know the reason for this. Could be that 2/3 stop of higher shutter speed or the 2/3 stop of iso value I reduce to compensate for the more light that might be giving me sharper results or it could be that this particular lens is sharper wide open @300mm.
Thank you. If the legendary Michael Nick Nichols shot wide open there must be a reason and he has done so much for nature and conservation.
@@josephnevin yes most of the advice is to go for f7.1 or f8. And the cost was higher iso slower shutter also more details in the background which all contributed to lower image quality. I can understand some camera company wants you to do f8 because some zoom lens is sharper at f8 but that requires the subject to be stationary lol which never happens in nature.
Your prescriptions match my experience. This is a breath of fresh air! I've grown tired of those who try to shame photographers who give priority to shooting wise open.
Possibly the best wildlife tutorial video have seen. Of course I subscribed. Thank you. BTW, I tested your advice to sharpen the heck out of an image at full size then scale down for social media. great advice.
Thanks
these are professional tipps and no bla bla , helped a lot, thanks for this
Thank you so much!
This video popped into my feed as I had never viewed any of your previous work. It was helpful and well presented. I have shared it as well as subscribing.
Thank you, Tin Man Lee!
Gina in NC, US
Thanks so much, Gina! Thanks for sharing and subscribing :) this makes me happy. Let me know if you have any questions too.
@@TinManLee 🙏🏼 Thank you. As I am a novice, I don't even know what questions to ask yet!
Thank you so much, I am a very experienced photographer suddenly struggling with wildlife photos, these tips will help a lot.
Tin Man you are becoming a guru! All these tips are on point, essentially the first two. I only own 3 lenses, a 400mm f/2.8, a 600mm f/4, and a 135mm f/2!
Woohoo 135 f2! I recently bought one and can’t wait to try it.
Some terrific tips but in my opinion some tips that will make the people that cannot afford the mega pixel cameras, or the equipment needed to edit those same photos think they can never achieve great photos, same as requiring lenses that are well over the $5000 mark here in Canada to get the shots. I shot back when digital cameras were first starting to appear on the scene and captured some fantastic images in my time the only difference, I had to work a bit harder to make it happen and I wasn't going home with a hundred or more great shots for the day but 1-10 and was happy with that. Don't forget that part of your viewing audience are people who buy even entry level cameras and they are the onces that keep the companies doors open to produce the amazing work horses that are out there in camera land today. With all that said I liked the way you presented so you have gained another subscriber.
Very well said and I totally agree. Thank you for subscribing. I admit I’m just too obsessed to try to get the ultimate difficult shots in low light lol. I did see some of my friends getting wonderful shots in low light with tamron 150-600 or some of those super zooms. Which is exactly what you said. They had to work harder. They had to miss quite a lot of shots in one encounter to get a few decent shots also by really pushing the iso and expose to the right. And it’s still possible. After some years I realized that those low light action shots were what I was really interested in so I wanted to maximize my opportunity. And with mirrorless a lot of the zoom lenses focus pretty quickly these days. I hadn’t tried like the Sony 200-600 in super low light. Some said they are fast. But I did see friends with zooms that their cameras wouldn’t focus while I was already taking pics for 15 mins or so with the prime. Another option would be to buy some used prime lens from few generations back. They are a lot heavier but the focusing speed is still lightning fast such as the old 500 f4. Very good points thanks a lot.
Wow! Your video blew me away, -am amateur photographer and thank you so much for making such a easy to understand video as I found most videos too technical to understand and love your photos. Looking forward to more videos!
Dahum, dude. Loved your tips. You're the Ip-man of photography!
Unconventional tips but makes complete sense. I appreciate you explaining the reason behind them. Can’t wait to try them out. Thank you!
Excellent tips, although many of them are expensive. I really like the one about oversharpening before cropping. I gotta try that one!
Good point. I see it more of “borrowing” because these cameras and lenses preserve value really well. I once bought a $5000 lens and used it for a few years and was able to sell it $5500 used because the price of the new lens actually increased.
@@TinManLee deamn, thats a w.
Thanks Mr Lee I was going to sell my 500 f4 but after this video I agree with all you said I just needed to hear it again. 🎉
@@warrennelson825 500 f4 is awesome. Why do you want to sell it? Is it because of the weight?
Thank you for your great tips. Love the post production sharpness tip.
Fantastic practical tips Tim not found elsewhere.Thanks a lot
That means a lot. Took me a few years testing the theories in the field to learn it. Really appreciate your kind words.
Great tips. Gonna give this a shot. My nature/bird pics need a little help.
Hope it helps!
Lots of great info have to watch this again!
Great to hear that. I am working on a new video with more info soon. Stay tuned.
Thank you for your insights. You did a great job explaining real world issues regarding taking the best photos utilizing key techniques.
I'm a new photographer, and you have given me a great base to work from.
Thank you for your kind words, Peter! Very glad to hear that. Stay tuned as I plan to post more regularly :)
I look forward to your next videos.
My Best,
Peter
Copy this. I 'm an retired amateur photographer so I don't often learn that much from other kinds of photography experts like you. But, I can use everyone of your tips in my work. Thanks for some great education about the technical side of using my camera ... /// THX ;)
So glad I found your channel...Great tips! Thank you!
So glad to hear. Thank you!
Very informative . Thanks for video.
Greatest teacher. Amazing energizing wonderful beautiful incredible awesome
Excellent tips! Thank you so much for sharing them!
So glad it helps.
I really enjoyed this video it was extremely helpful advice. I will keep watching all your videos.
Means a lot. Thank you. Will be posting more on this topic.
Excellent tips, although many of them are expensive. I really like the one about oversharpening before cropping. I gotta try that one!
Fantastic pointers! I've dipped my toe into wildlife but I mostly photograph dogs. Surprisingly, anything slower than 1/1250 will produce motion blur with my speed demons. 🤣 Thank you so much for the video! I can't wait to put some of these tips into practice!
Photographing dogs is a completely different ball game and you need even higher shutter speed than wildlife. I’ve tried that lol.
I shoot my dogs from time to time. I don't use very short shutter speeds because the images look frozen. You want to show a motion in the picture. Just like when you shoot cars, you need to follow the subject and let background show motion blur.
@USGrant-xq4us I'm trying to shoot my dog too. Even when the pics aren't great, it's still very enjoyable. 😄
All great advice and tips, thank you!
Appreciate it.
Thank you for the video. I’m just trying out wildlife photography, so for now I’m just using my iPhone and a telephoto lens until I know I want to get more serious. I’ve been doing it for a couple weeks and my photos have gotten better, but sharpness is still a challenge. I know there’s a limit to what my phone can do, but I hope your tips will help with my very basic setup.
Phone and telephoto lens is a good start and it’s so lightweight you can bring everywhere. It’s always a good idea to rent a big camera for a weekend to give it a try and compare before you make a decision.
@@TinManLee Thank you. I’ll try renting a camera one day.
Great!
Now l finally know that in order to get sharp photos l only have to get the camera with the most pixels ($),
the fastest lens possible ($$), a lot reach/telephoto ($$$)
and of course, its preferable with a fullframe ($$$$)😬
Thats 4 pro tips right there…
One is never too old to learn new things😁👍
Lovely photos by the, the gear, l mean the tips, must be working.
The one tip that recomand that you’ll look for clear background was a good one. I seems obvious now that you told us, but l always gets so eager when something exciting, a hawk or a falcon shows up, that l immediate start shooting.
With regards to iso, l have also been told that the newer gear are so good that iso up to 6400 are of no problems for a modern camera. I am not that good in holding the camera still and often suffers from motion blur, so l regurlary shoot with auto iso and with min. shutterspeed between 1/320 and 1/500. More when things move.
What brand is the present or advanced Full frame body & Best lens for wildlife photography please help me sir
If money is not a concern, I would get the Sony A1 and Sony 400 2.8. If money is not a concern and you can get it in stock, then Nikon z9 and z400 2.8 (wait list is usually months if not years)
@@TinManLee sir I'm asking in canon brand best gear to wildlife mid range Full frame body with lens
great. thanks for the tips. really helpful.
Thanks for your kind words!
Some of the best advice i've heard to date....thank you for taking the time.
Hi there, please can you help me on how to set my canon camera EOS 1500D to capture best picture of people. Will look forward to hearing from you soon. Thanks
Thanks!!! great video and information
Glad to hear that. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for the valuable information, sir
Thank you for your kind words
Awesome tips thank you
So glad to hear that!
Like your thoughts on if I need to move over to mirrorless technology or if there is a place for full frame traditional cameras.
For shooting flying birds (e.g eagle),
(1) what metering modes (e.g. spot, center weighted) and AF-Area modes should be set ?
(2) what is the priority? shutter speed, ISO, aperture, and exposure compensation
thanks.
Good questions I’m actually filming a video on those topics as I’m typing this.
Some cracking Tips there, many I already knew but a few I didn’t so it was a great watch. Thanks for taking the time to put out this video! I always say every days a school day! Keep up the great work. Also some cracking images shown as examples. All the best Rich 👍
That’s very kind of you. Thank you. Was sick for over a week but will resume very soon. Hope all is well!
He is a nice teacher. Saw his video for the first time. Subscribed. ❤
woohoo big thanks!
@@TinManLee You are welcome sir!!
Hey Tin man, I like your style,I enjoyed listening to your advice and will implement your recommendations.
What should you do if you don't have an trackimg autofocus (Nikon D7500)
I have a guide here. tinmanclass.com/supersharp1 it’s totally doable with d7500. You just have to make sure to prefocus
fantastic... learned a lot of things.. thank you
Awesome to hear, thanks.
I purchased my first camera during COVID and bought the Sony a6400. While it takes great photos, it is superior with its video capabilities. I am looking to try a new camera body and upgrade and wanted to know if you had any suggestions.
What’s your budget and what lens are you using for a6400? And what’s your ultimate goal in photography such as animals you want to photograph?
Fantastic info greatly appreciated Sir 📸
Awesome to hear :)
Very informative, thank you. Incredible visuals.
Good stuff! Thanks again Tin Man!
Great info many thanks for sharing your knowledge,so happy to learn about sharpening
hi, could you point me in the right direction, i have a 420mm-800mm lens and when i attach it to my canon 700d i get an error message, is there a way to connect the two to get it to work, much thanks
I’m not familiar with the 420-800. Can you tell me more about the model?
I would like to add a few tips: pre-focus on something of a similar distance to the subject and use your AF limiter on the lens. Furthermore shutter speed is not only related to the subject speed, but also depending on your distance to the subject and lens focal length used. Background is highly depending on your location; in a rain forest you just have to deal with the situation at hand. Using back-button AF helps and dual AF buttons even more so you can quickly switch from eye/animal-tracking to spot AF.
I must say that letting go of the 'lowest ISO' philosophy brought me more sharp photos. Just use the correct exposure and DXO/Topaz will do a great job in post processing. If I have the luxury of time, then I'll give lower ISO a go. And the highest frame rate doesn't always deliver (at least not on the R5) as rolling shutter can be more evident from over-correction of the image stabilization. Also be aware that higher MP cameras have more issues with heat shimmer.
Very good points. I used to do prefocus on digital SLR. But for mirrorless with eye focus it’s quite challenging to do prefocus without any eyes to focus on. It’s actually one of the biggest problem of mirrorless but lately the eye focus is so good that it’s no longer a problem for me. Good point about relative distance and shutter speed. Are you using canon? Canon can switch spot and eye with back button. But with Nikon and Sony it’s not as easy for me. Good to hear that you are able to get good shots with topaz and dxo. They are indeed powerful. I used to do most of my work from 1600-8000 range but lately I’ve been having fun with lower iso.
I agree with all your points. I'm also getting excellent results at all reasonable ISOs with DxO PureRAW. I'm grateful that Tin Man Lee was careful to say "if you can afford it..." because I cannot afford a $12,000 f2.8 400mm prime lens with a 45-megapixel full-frame camera to bring in more light and lower the ISO. When Mr. Lee shoots at ISO 100 at f2.8, my Sony 200-600mm f5.6-6.3 lens is multiples of that ISO with the same shutter speed.
Thank you ....your tips on wild life photography is so informative and useful.
That was really great, thank you. I am a beginner and I could use all the help I can get. Keep them coming
Great to hear. What do you like to photograph most?
Great information. Makes total sense. Thanks.
Big thanks.
Thank you very much!👍😃
Do you use All servo focus!?
Great tips!
Great shared photography tips. Big LIKE!!! Thanks for sharing.
These are amazing tips from someone who knows.
Volevo sapere se usando corpo nikon preferisci lo scatto principale per la messa a fuoco o il pulsante Af-On ?
Good tips Tin Man! you always have something new to share.
Awesome I saw your nice fox shots
Does the Sony A7IV with 33MP have enough Pixels?
Your tips were very helpful and 2 tips were knew for me. High mega-pixel related resize and prepare a background. I am using background well but preparing makes more sense.
Really enjoyed your tips, learned a lot. Thank you!
Really appreciate it. Let me know if you have any questions.
Tin, I really like your videos. When are you posting a new one?
Hello, thank for those tips. Talking about lens, according your experience, which one would you buy for wildlife (small birds) for Nikon Z camera? NIKKOR AF-S 600mm f/4E with FTZ II adapter or NIKKOR Z 600mm f/6.3? Both are good lenses, one has bigger aperture, the other is lighter and native for Z mount. I checked some of your videos and you talk a lot about having the lens with the bigger aperture, but you also mentioned to get the newer lens too. Ideally would be the NIKKOR Z 600mm f/4 TC but that is out of my budget
Great video, the tips shared are so useful.
Great video! Thanks for this, I'm an urban street photographer and this was helpful...
Thank you, Tin Man for sharing so much excellent information.
Hope all is well so good to hear from you.
@@TinManLeeثیی قصد 😂سی ثصصضثسبضضصضصqqactxar😢
Nice thanks for the tips
Great video Tin Man. ❤
You are overwhelmingly advanced for a beginner!
Wow ! Excellent your explanation 👏 this would help many photographers that's for sure. Good work keep it up ❤
Thanks for your kind words.
Excellent advice! Thank you!
Thank you so much. Some of the tips are really worth being considered the next time I'm out shooting BIF.
I love BIF. I may do a more in depth video on BIF later.
WONDERFUL VIDEO!! Thank you!
Very helpful tips!
Much appreciated!!!
Super, Super, Super, advice, Thanks.
🙂
Wow thanks so much for your kind comments.
Very informative , thank you for enlightening us. Also the way you mentioned other notable people in the video shows your high ethical standards and respect for elders, a trait of our Asian culture, keep sharing 🙏🙏
As a starter this video is really helps me. Thank from india. I am using d500 and 200•600 set up. Its that ok for starters?
That's a nice setup with good effective focal length. I heard d500 is very fast in AF and with good image quality. Good luck!
Thank you Tin Man!
You are welcome.
My 70-200 2.8 Rf and 100-500 RF are pretty similar in terms of focus speed. So I don’t sign this ”wider the aperture the quicker it is” at least what comes to focus speed. Usually it is focus motors on the lens and camera model that affects it. In some cases same lens on R5 is different while comparing to R3 and other way around. For example 105mm 1.4 sigma is better in R5 than in R3 and also 70-200 RF. Some smaller primes are quicker focusing in R3 when comparing to R5 (with the same lens on). Of course some expensive 600mm f4 primes can be quicker in focus speed but price is much more.. btw. You didnt mention that in 100-500 RF there is this small switch that u can use to make it even faster to focus when there is more than 2.5m range to the subject..
Very good point. In bright light there really is no difference in AF speed for most of the zoom lenses and prime lenses. But it happened to me time and again when I was with other photographers during low light in sunrise and sunset, that I was taking sharp photos with my 400 2.8, and their 80-200, 100-400, 100-500 still couldn't even focus for quite a few minutes. So they ended up missing all the shots in those critical moments when the mood was the best. lol I didn't mention the 2.5m thing because everytime I switched to that mode, the birds and the animals came within the minimum focusing distance and I have lost countless shots and those were the best ones.
Great video!! thanks for all these precious tips! I have a question not related to the tecnical part of photography but to the human part, how do you prevent dangerous situations when you are very close to dangerous animals? and how do you know when you are too close to them and how do you act in those situations?
Very good question and a very important topic. Indeed a lot of beginning photographers didn't know the danger when they get close. I've had opportunities to talk to many wildlife guides, and one thing is to observe the facial expression and body posture of the animal ALL the time. If they are agitated, most of the time they show it. The same species can behave completely different at places where the habitat is clear (without lots of tall grass and trees), vs places when they are hunted, to places they see a lot of tourists everyday. Also the abundance of food source makes a difference. I recently had an interview with a professional bear guide. Maybe you can check that out first and let me know if you have any more questions. ua-cam.com/video/YruDM5VUxLk/v-deo.html
@@TinManLee thank you very much for your fast answer! I would love to know more about this because I think it's one of the things that prevents me to enjoy wild life photografy in the first place, if I feel unsafe I won't go out to take pictures, but I would love to win my fears if they are unjustified! Your tips already proved me that you can be safe while being close to wild animals if you follow certain rules, but I'm still quite worried, so if you will do a video specifically focused on "good practices" on how to behave with wild animals I'll be the first whatching it! Thanks again for all your amazing videos!
Thank you for your video. About your last tip, is it better to have the camera set to shoot without autofocus or not shoot until it is in focus?
I chose the shoot without autofocus. Because it had happened to me that sometimes the action is so fast and the camera thought it’s not in focus but I saw clearly it had already grabbed focus but it just wouldn’t take photos and it’s heart aching.
@@TinManLee thank you so mucho for answering.
How does an ISO invariant camera affect your ETTR recommendation?
Very good question! Hadn’t had time to go into those. Nikon and Sony have very good ISO invariance. Canon is worse so ETTR is more critical. Less effect for Nikon and Sony. How are you doing?
Excellent video. Thank you for all these great tips. Subscribed
Woohoo thank you
Great set of advice. Thanks.
Nice video! Good tips... 👍🏻