How to Fix Squeaking Squealing Rim Brakes: Quick bike brake toe-in the easy way
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- How to stop brake squeal on rim brakes (squeaking road bike brakes or noisy mtb brake problems): Noisy brakes or loud brakes are a common problem with brake pad wear or if the brake pads otherwise become misaligned due to loosening of the brake pad mounting bolt. Squealing and noise can also be caused by dirt and grime build up. First check the brakes for wear and replace brake pads if you no longer see the groves in the brake pad. Clean the pads as well as the rims with rubbing alcohol. Make sure the brakes are aligned and one brake pad is not rubbing against the rim of the wheel. If these measures don't fix the problem, you will probably need to toe-in the brake pads, that is, the front of the brake pad needs to contact the rim before the rear of the pad in order to prevent squealing (noisy brakes) as the brakes are applied. This quick easy method will "toe-in" and fix squealing bakes.
You'll need a reusable velcro hook and loop cable tie used to hold electric cord or garden hose (about 8 inches long) and some zip ties, both of which you can get for a few dollars at Home Depot or Amazon. The process will be same for front or back, whichever is squealing or making noise.
1. Open brake release lever on the bicycle brakes on both side
2. Place zip tie around rear of brake pad, Do the same for the other side
3. Close the brake release lever
4. Squeeze brake handles and, using the cable ties, hold the brake handle closed
5. Loosen brake mounting bolts, giggle and move up & down
6. Center such that it is resting on the rim (and NOT the tire) and then tighten mounting bolt
7. Repeat on other side
8. Open the release levers on the brake
9. Remove cable ties from both sides of the brakes
10. Remove zip ties and save for later use if needed
11. Close the brake release lever
Test brakes checking that front of pad hits rim before rear of the pad. It's a good idea to check the wear of the brake pads, alignment of the brakes and toe-in during normal bicycle maintenance and bicycle repair.
This might sound crazy, but on my V-brake setup, when I followed your video it would cause the pads to toe out instead of in. I double and triple checked the placement of the ziptie spacers. But when everything was finished, I could see the back edge of the pad hitting first even though it had the spacer on that end.
I ended up just setting the toe in by shifting the pads by hand and eyeballing the angle.The squealing is gone now, after weeks of pulling my hair out as to why it wasn't working. But I'm just curious why my pads wouldn't toe in when following your steps.
You need to put on the zip ties you then loosen the brake pad bolt slightly, jiggle the pad holder and washers such that they move around a bit until the pads toe in - and then hold the handle of the brake handle closed with a Velcro tie. Now tighten the pad bolts. The concave washers need to move about to get the correct angle. If the front of the pad doesn't hit first, repeat the process. But if you have a good eye as you do, you can do the job without spacers. Thanks for the comment. It's well worth mentioning. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you for the reply. I was fairly certain that I did jiggle the pads after placing the spacer but the conical washers didn't seem to take the setting after I tightened everything down. I may try using the spacer technique again because I think setting it by eye may have resulted in a little more toe in than necessary. In the end I'm just glad the incessant squeaking is gone!
Kool-stop brake pads have a included washer that makes it easy to do thankfully.
That's because you probably put the zip tie around the bracket and passing behind the par not around the pad. That would do exactly the opposite and the back would touch first. Eyeballing is not a problem just keep the toe in at the minimum you can.
@@KMED-gc7gv I'm not really sure what you mean. The zip-tie was around the trailing edge of the pad exactly as shown in the video. It wasn't put around any part of the bracket.
This is one of the best instructional videos I’ve ever watched. It was to the point, without the long boring extra junk & had some great tips!!!
Glad it was helpful! Regards and safe cycling, Tony
This is amazing. I've done everything from changing the pads, cleaning them with sand paper, and the cleaning the rims with alcohol but they never fixed the squealing. This method actually solved my problem and saved me money, thanks a lot!
Neat method I use on many of the bikes I work on. Thanks. Regards, Tony
@Barry Macokiner Some people use a couple of business cards or piece of card board, but I like the zip ties my self because they don't fall out. Remember, after installing the zip ties, you may have to move the brake pads around so as to adjust the conical washer that allow for the toe in.
Regards, Tony
This video was a purchase saver!!! Have some really worn pads, Cleaned rims, pads, etc...after cleaning, started with squeak, installed new pads.....still squeaked...didnt even think of toe in of pads....made adjustments today and back to business!! Thank you Tony for posting!!!!
Glad to have helped. Tony
This is the best video I have seen so far on adjusting brake pad toe in. How smart!
Easy and quick. Don't forge to giggle the brake pad a bit to turn the concave washer that holds it on before tightening the bolt. Regards, Tony
Thank you for this video! The Zip Tie idea is so simple and so brilliant. I've tried credit cards, business cards, all kinds of things. My brakes were perfectly toed-in, in less than 5 minutes. Bye bye squeek and shimmy!
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great fix thank you, bought my new bike "setup"......... Squealing brakes, poor gear change, all fixed with the aid of UA-cam videos from experts like yourself!!
Glad to be of help. Safe cycling, Tony
Followed your instructions and front brakes no longer squeal! Thanks for posting this!
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Easy to undetstand, concise and no b.s.
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks a lot. The squealing was deafening. This fixed it in 5 minutes. You’re the man.
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you sooo much, I just ended up rotating the brake pads 180 degrees and it worked like a charm.
Smart thinking. Regards, Tony
Just to say a really big thankyou. Fixed my new sram break blocks. Sanded then tried this, now don't have rim brakes trying to be disc brakes!
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I did mostly what you had recommended, minus the zip tie. No more squealing. I will fine adjust for tension for lockup, if needed.
Thank you for the video. I did this on a generic Mongoose bike. Tomorrow will be lubricating the chain. Gave the bike a good cleaning.
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
thanks much for the training, off to the garage to adjust further. Worked like a champ! I am sure glad you folks put this DYI videos to help us back yard mechanics.
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for this video! I just used it to successfully eliminate the squeal on my bike’s brakes. Took less than 30 minutes to do both front and back brakes. Adjustment is slightly different on the center pull V brakes on my bike - need both a hex key and ring wrench to loosen the bolt, and also had to remove the quick release cable as I don’t have a release lever. But all the principles are the same, and the result is perfect! No more angry looks from fellow users of the bike trails. :-)
Glad it worked on the V brakes and thank for sharing. Regards, Tony
By god it worked. No more scaring people on our local bike trail with shrieking squeals!
Glad it worked. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Tony Ten Speed strikes again! Great video, thank you for making it.
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
you're the best. Thank you for helping me solve this annoying issue!
Glad to help. Also note my pinned comment to David F. question. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Excellent. Knowledge is power and I thank you sir for sharing yours. I love more tricks for my “toolbox”
Glad to help. Subscribe (if not already) and watch for up coming videos. Regards, Tony
Thanks, made my braking much quieter! Still makes some noise when braing hard but it's fine for soft and medium braking. Great trick!
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
thank-you very much. I have begun to count on your instructional videos for our bike repairs.
Thank you. And I am always open to suggestions. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank You! I would have taken it to a bike shop and they would have charged $$ for a brake pad adjustment and tune-up and
I wouldn't have been any the wiser.
P C: Don't forget to move the brake pad around a bit after attaching the zip tie and pulling back on the brakes. This will help move the conical washer attached to the brake pad bolt into the correct position. The you can tighten the brake pad bolt. And yes, they would have charge $$ Regards, Tony
Thank you!! I've been doing it wrong my whole life!
Glad I can help. Should make your bike quieter when braking. Regards, Tony
Thank you. I haven't used my new bike much as the brakes squeal so bad it's embarrasing. Now I can fix it.
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great video - it solved the problem. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the brake lever instead of a zip tie.
It's a neat trick. One needs to remember to move the brake pad around a bit to get the "concave" washer in the correct position before tightening the pad mounting bolt. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Tony...this is really good! I finally understand how pads must be adjusted to avoid the god-awful squeals. However, my brakes are a bit older than those you show. Still rim brakes, but the 2 sides aren't connected. That means my adjustment is a bit different. From my description, can you understand my brakes, please? Bike is FUJI touring model, purchased perhaps 30 years ago. Great bike...but those brakes! Yikes. Thanks for whatever help you can lend.
Either send me a picture or look up "V-brakes" and "Linear Brakes" and let me know if your brakes are similar to either of those so I can send you some references. Tony
Tony, thank you for this great tip. I was setting up the brakes on my Colnago Master, and to keep the set up as original as possible I'm not using concave brake pads. I tried all the tricks i knew to reduce the front brake squeal caused by the difficulty of achieving a good toe-in on traditional brakes (not prepared to go down the route of bending brake arms given I have an original set of Modolo Superprestige brakes in White). The simplicity of your approach using cable ties appealed to me, so I tried it out, and no more squeal.
You're welcome. Visit our UA-cam home site at ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Excellent advice, sir. I use rubber bands looped over the brake pads and an old toe strap to hold the brake lever in place.
That would work well also. The zip ties allow me to giggle the brake pad holders around (with a little more ease then the rubber bands might) - in order to get the correct positioning of the concave washer that nest against the convex face of the brake pad hold - and sets the toe in of the brake pads.
Another very useful tip Tony
Thanks. Regards, Tony
I recently bought my first bike (since I was a kid when my dad fixed things for me). The first time I took it out both brakes squealed really loudly when I tried to stop, and I thought it was just from being new. But I've ridden it a few times since then and they both still squeak, though the right brake isn't as loud anymore. I tried cleaning the brake and the rim but it didn't work. I think this may be my problem. Thanks for the very detailed video, I will try this soon.
Some people use a piece of cardboard or even a penny, but I prefer the zip tie since it stays in place. Once you have the zip tie in place and the brake locked down if a Velcro strip or something else, giggle the brake pad to get the concave washer in the right place. Then tighten the brake pad bolt. Some people just eyeball it, especially on "V" brakes. Let me know how you make out.
Regards, Tony
Thanks for the tip. Fixed my daughter bike in 2mn 🙏
Great. Someday she'll be doing the repairs. Regards, Tony
Worked perfectly for my Mongoose. Now on to the other bikes .
Thanks. Don't forget to read the comment and response from David F. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for the tips. Very helpful.
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for the helpful video! I appreciate you keeping it so simple.
Thanks, your welcome. Regards, Tony
Genius. Saved me a lot of time, thanks.
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Great video thanks for uploading
Glad to help. Regards, Tony
Cheers EMT. Great tips and short and sweet. Stay safe 👍
Thanks. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks mate, very clear and concise. It worked great too. 👍
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Thanks Tony. I ll give it a go. No brake lever. Bike's a little older.
How do the brakes work with no lever?
Thank you very much. Great help. Much appreciated.
It's a nice little trick that has worked for me, although some can just "eyeball it" and look for the "toe-in" before tightening up the brake pads. Others use a penny or a folded business card under the rear of the pad. But these often fall out in the process as you jiggle the brake pad to move the concave washer into position to allow toe-in before tightening the brake pad bolt.
Regards, Tony
Clever method. Thank you.
Don't forget to giggle the brake to rotate the concave washer into position and adjust the height of the brake so it hits the rim and not the rubber of the tire before fastening down the brake handle and tightening the bolts on the brake pads. Regards, Tony
I have a 5-yrs old Trek bike with a v brake system. I followed your instructions carefully... (I like the tie-wrap tip, btw). Even after replacing the pads, cleaning the rim with alcool, and checking toe-in... my front brake still squeals like a banshee, unfortunately... What is the next step... if I want to avoid spending too much? New brakes? (I like to do my own bike repairs).
Here RJ's approach. If none of these work, you may have to replace the brake pads. See:
ua-cam.com/video/NhgzTt1sumg/v-deo.html&ab_channel=RJTheBikeGuy
Regards, Tony
Thank you!
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great! Just what I needed to know
Glad to help. Regards, Tony
Thank you.
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed I’ve watched several of your other videos now! I’ve been fighting with my brakes for weeks, and this one made it easy.
I got my new byke 3 days ago and my rear rim brake make such a horrible noise it's embarrassing and I don't trust them people told me it's because it's new and they will stop making noise after I use them after some time is that true and how do I brake going down hill?
New brakes should not make noise. Try the "toe-in" process as described in the video or take it back to the dealer and tell them to toe-in the brakes. Regards, Tony
thank u so much
Glad it was of help. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed any other tips for squeaky brakes the still squeak a lot, the thing is I have Odessa ghost pads and they are short so the zip tie might not have worked
@@tony10speed and I ride Bmx and I have plastic pegs how long until I should replace them, I just got them, if you know
@@barrettfrancolla2884 you can try a small piece of cardboard under the back end of the brake, squeeze the brake handle closed to hold it in place, loosen the brake pad bolt and jiggle the washers underneath to get the correct angle and tighten up again. Finally, you can eye ball it by just loosening the brake pad bolt, move the pad around a bit until the front is pointed inward compared to the back and tighten up the bolt again (the old way we mechanics have and often still adjust toe in).
Regards, Tony
@@barrettfrancolla2884 Depends on the use. Plastic is much smoother and lighter the metal but they wear and break quicker then metal. With lots of trick riding on hard surfaces, you may wind up replacing the pegs weekly or at least monthly, less often if you're not dealing with metal and concrete. But give it a try. If they wear through or break to often for your budget, switch to metal. I wish I could be more specific. Regards, Tony
Good tips! Thanks
Glad to help. Regards, Tony
Thanks a lot for this.
Nice little trick. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
This was helpful, but I have a question about the calibre of the brake pads. Would less expensive pads add to the problem of screeching, assuming the toe-in was done correctly?
A majority of rim brake pads made with low quality ingredients will eventually pull small bits of aluminum from the rim and embed into the brake pad surface. This results in a specific braking sound known in the cycling industry as The Grind. If you have any metal bits imbedded in your brake pad then you are damaging your expensive wheels and annoying other riders in your group. And it becomes a safety issue since brake performance is lost.
For more detail on quality and stopping power, see:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Tech_Series_Optimizing_Brake_Performance_Part_2_7152.html
Regards, Tony
After cleaning the rim I use emery cloth and scuff up the brake surface on the rim a small amount.
Drew Boss That should be the first the to do, as I mention at the beginning of the video. Thanks Drew.
I will do this procedure. I have a strong vibration on the front wheel when i brake. The headset is tightened. The wheel is true.
Make sure the wheel is centered between the brakes (remove the wheel if necessary and re-center). Also make sure the wheel skewers are tight. Then try adjusting the "toe-in" as in the video. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed the brake pads were parallel with the rim. Now i cleaned the rims with the swisstop gummy and the brake pads with sand paper . And made the toe in adjustment. Tomorrow i will do a ride to see if everything is working normal. Thanks, i will come back with the update.
Isn’t there another adjusting nut to use with Allen wrench that directly can cause the pads front to toe in (or out) somewhere in the break assembly , thought this was something that might exist.
There is a asymmetric washer that the brake mounting bolt goes through before it attaches to the brake mount and pad. When you loosen the brake mounting bolts, giggle and move up & down, you can get the front to "toe in." With the zip ties, you'll get just the right amount of toes in needed. Regards, Tony
So if I close the brake lever and even squeezing it tightly the back part of the pad doesn't contact with brand new cartridges, does that mean the toe-in is too extreme? It's only that way on one side and I don't have any squeaking problems
The front should hit first but when the brakes are fully applied firmly, the entire pad should contact the rim to give it the most effective stopping power.
Thank you!!!!!!!!
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Thanks. It worked for me!
Glad to be of help. Regards, Tony
What’s the best thickness for toe-in? I just use the shimano cardboard that comes with the brake pad.
A few mm is all that's needed. Two business cards or the Shimano cardboard you use is sufficient. Doesn't need to be very thick. Good question. Thanks, Tony
I try it all of it...cleaning very well...adjust perfect...i try new rims and new brake pads adjust and in Campagnolo dealer and by my self
...everything out there
..still noisy...so i quit...let it noise
I agree, let it noise and see if it needs a "break in" period of time. However, if they are new brakes, the dealer should either replace them or swap them for another brand.
Here are two additional comments I saw on the internet:
"The shop I go to noticed this problem on and off with Escape hybrids since last year; what's most likely causing it is that there can be some forward / backward play in the stock brakes where they're mounted -- the solution my LBS uses is to put a small spacer between the brake and the frame where it's mounted, and that seems to solve the issue."
"Kool Stops are not a universal solution for squealing brakes.... In most cases, Kool Stop pads will solve squealing issues with most brakes or at least, change the audible squeal into one that only dogs can hear."
Amazon:
www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=kool+stop+brake+pads&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=178095243357&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14389421041768202388&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004016&hvtargid=kwd-1966055588&ref=pd_sl_373he9roxu_e
I had the same problem with new brake pads. I finally saw a video that said to toe out your brake pads (rear of pads touching first). No more noise.
Other causes of brake squeal can be due to any play in the braking system or even the hub bearings. A small amount of play in the wheel bearings can also contribute to squealing brakes. Some brake calipers are light and flexy and this can contribute to unwanted play as the brake block contacts the surface of the rim. After that, I guess you've done the best you can.
My brakes seems to squeal when it is wet... after some braking... when it is "dried" (just an estimation, not that I check it for wetness), then the squealing seems to stop... I'll do what you suggests here and then report back if it helped... thanks though!
Brake pad squeal when wet is not unusual. If they do not squeal in dry conditions, the brake pad is the most likely suspect. Some brake pads perform better in wet conditions and some are much quieter. You can consider different rim brake pads or disc pads, but I usually stick with the same manufactures brakes pads made for the type of brakes you have.
The brakes may also pick up oils from the road in wet conditions and cleaning the brakes and rims with rubbing alcohol (some suggest degreaser) may quiet the brakes.
Also see this overview of brake squealing:
road.cc/content/feature/how-stop-your-brakes-squealing-188504
P.S. You didn't tell me if you have rim brakes or disc brakes.
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed hey tony, thanks for the comprehensive answer! I’m using rim brakes… and it’s really loud lately… well, it’s getting really wet these days… even without rain.
THANK YOU SO MUCH
You're welcome. Please note my reply to the pinned comment to David F. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
May I ask what that lever on the brake caliper does? I've never seen brakes like that.
Are you referring to the brakes quick release lever? If so, these are present on most present day bike rim brakes. See:
ua-cam.com/video/CxsQrNPYQO4/v-deo.html
If not, maybe you can be more specific. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you for the speedy reply, Tony. Yes that's what I was asking about. I've always used V and cantilever setups since I started riding with wider tyres so I had no idea this was a thing! I may have to go back a U brake again.
Also thank you for the video, concise and to the point! I just received my new Kool-Stop pads today and was worried I wouldn't be able to do them justice and fit them right but your video helped me install them perfectly with no chatter whatsoever.
Kind regards, Mike.
Nice, i didnt know that.
It's a nice little trick. Regards, Tony
Which better to use ziptie or card board?
Card board works fine but sometimes tends to slide or fall out. That's why I used the zip ties which seem to stay in place better. But that's just my personal opinion. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
i have tried doing what you said in the beginning of the video and correct toe in with new brakes and they still squeak. its just on the rear brakes too
Make sure the rims are clean (with soap and water or a little alcohol on a cloth).
Check the brake pads and if they're "glossed over" use a little emery cloth to remove the glaze.
Check that there are no loose parts on the calipers.
Also see:
road.cc/content/feature/188504-how-stop-your-brakes-squealing
ua-cam.com/video/tpTgYGAqtxk/v-deo.html
Hope these help. Otherwise consult your bike shop. Regards, tony
What if I have a cheap Walmart bike and I don’t have a brake lever? Ive shimmed the brake pads but still to no avail.
Probably related to the material composition of the brake pad. I don't know if it's worth putting on better pads or living with what you have. Probably made in China. Regards, Tony
Thanks Tony! ☘☘🇮🇪
Neat little trick. Don't forget to move the brake pad around a little so the concave washer will line up correctly before you fasten down the brake handles. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks again and Best wishes from Dublin where if I don't go now for my daily bike run before the rain I'll get soaked! 😁 It's cold too...
What do I do differently if I don't have a brake lever? I've never had one so I don't understand what the functionality is
You may not have one if you run a fixed gear bike, however, I'm surprised you don't understand what a brake does.
@@tony10speed I do understand what a brake does, I just don't know what a brake lever shown in this video does. Although from reading, it's clear now that it has the same functionality as disconnecting the noodle on my own brakes. You could have told me that without the condescending attitude
@@malamute8257 You must have linear or cantilever brakes. You could have mention that too.
@@tony10speed I don't know what the different kinds of brakes are, just that they're squealing
@@malamute8257 This video would probably apply to your brakes system (you can still use the zip ties for the toe-in):
ua-cam.com/video/NslavfZGzq4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Howcast
Regards, Tony
Good Stuff!!!!
Yes, neat trick and works well. Thanks and regards, Tony
i got a question.when you are tightening the brakes mine seem to move alot,any tips?
Re tighten the Velcro strap on the brake lever so it's nice and tight. Use one hand on the end of the brake pad (the end that want to turn out of placement) while you tighten the hex bolt of the brake pad with the other hand. May take a few tries. Regards, Tony
yeah i used the velcro strap i forgot and that helped! thanks
Hey sir. While riding my bike the pads are making noise without applying brakes pls help
It is possible the wheel is not centered and one of the pads is hitting the rim even when not braking. Make sure the wheel is seated correctly. Loosen the quick release, pull up on the wheel, and refasten the quick release. If that doesn't do the trick, the brake itself may need to be centered. Get off the bike and take a look to see if one of the pads is touching the rim. To fix this problem, see our video (at about 3 min 14 seconds into the video)=> ua-cam.com/video/PZrYyCahS34/v-deo.html Finally, make sure that there are no bulges or rips in the tire itself that may hit against the brake pads. Regards, Tony
Thank you sir
Glad to help. Regards, Tony
I think I love you...silence now...it was toe in
Simple fix. You're welcome.
Or just use a penny!
Yes, but the penny could fall out as you adjust the brake pad - but the zip tie will stay in place.
What a cockeyed way to do it; you don't need to use a zip tie, just use a penny.
A penny doesn't allow you to move around the brake pad so the concave washer will be adjusted properly, nor do they stay in place as you adjust the height of the brake pads. We use to use a penny or piece of cardboard, but this works much better. Apply the zip ties to each side, move around the brake pads until they are pointed in the correct position, clamp down the brake handles with a Velcro strip and tighten the pads at the correct position and height. Easier then a penny, but that's just my opinion. If a penny works for you, great. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed
After placing the penny between the brake pad, then you squeeze the brake lever and tie something around it; then loosen the brake pad screw and retighten. Brake pad will automatically position itself correctly.
@@redblade8160 That's the way we use to do it. After using the zip tie on the brake pad, I just slide it off and will reuse it next time I need to adjust the pads. It's all a matter of preference and I appreciate you input. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I have done everything in this video to include cleaning the pads and the wheels with rubbing alcohol, adjusted the toe....still squealing....
Changed the pads with brand new ones.... Repeated all the steps....and the brakes still squeal...I'm out of ideas. Please help!!
First check that the rims are oil free and that there's no build-up of dirt - if so scrub them thoroughly with degreaser and/or rubbing alcohol. Wipe dry. Check the rims for wear - are they rough to the touch. If so, one may need to remove the tire and use some very fine steel wool (grade #0000) on the rims. Then wipe down with alcohol. Finally check that there is no "play" in the wheel, i.e., the wheel does not move side to side when fastened in the drop outs. Here is a nice review with some videos that may be of help:
road.cc/content/feature/how-stop-your-brakes-squealing-188504
Don't give up. With patience I'm sure you can solve the problem (just like a Sherlock Holmes). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony