I am often asked about what parts to replace when repairing or converting an A/C system. Below are some thoughts and best practices I use: Any time I open up a system I always replace, at a minimum, the drier. Best practice is to also replace the orifice tube, and because they are so cheap I always do. Cleaning them never works, and usually if they are getting clogged there is a reason. If I am opening up a system that has been inoperative for some time or repairing a system that has been opened to the elements for a while, I replace all the o-rings and flush the system. If the compressor has failed or I find metal shavings in the system, no matter how small, the compressor and condenser get replaced in addition to all the above things. The condenser is usually easy to reach but impossible to fully clean internally. For best results, it should be replaced during major a/c repairs if the system has been operating for 3 or more years as PAG oil/mineral oil tends to congeal and trap debris in the bottom of the condenser. It could lead to less-than-ideal system operation, a clogged orifice tube, or a premature pump failure in the future. Expansion valves (if equipped) are a replace item for me if I have gone this far. After I vacuum down the system, I pressurize it with nitrogen to do the leak-down test for best results. Nitrogen doesn't carry moisture and won't fill the silica packets in the drier with moisture like compressed air or pollute like leak testing with refrigerant. Swapping from r12 to r134a, for best results, will require replacing the above listed items regardless of condition. The way I see it, I am using a new refrigerant and a new lubricant that is incompatible with the old lubricant. I have tried and failed to have an ice cold system last reliably without doing this. A conversion kit is required to change the service ports to r134a compatible. I don't use gauges that have been used on r12 for r134a. The PAG oil used for r134a is incompatible with the mineral oil used in r12 and having a second set of gauges for this reason just makes sense. I have seen, and show in this video, that r134a leaks out of the lines even though they seemed fine with r12. This is because the r134a molecule is smaller than the r12 molecule. In addition, the lines have become very porous over the years. That being said, I replace all the rubber lines in an older system or a conversion. So, to do it right I have really replaced every piece of the A/C system at this point, except the evaporator. The evaporator is usually buried in the dash and takes a crazy amount of time/work to replace. More often than not, I just flush the heck out of it. A word of caution, don't be rough fitting the new parts/lines to the evaporator or you'll crack the aluminum and fund yourself replacing it as well. Trust me. I hope this helps.
Now if R-12 is corrosive to the Earth's ozone layer, why is it not corrosive to the ozone that is added to copper and aluminum tubing? Ozone is added to tubing so it can be shaped and bent without breaking..
Im working on the AC of my 87 s10 Blazer so i was glad i came across this video. Lots of good information. I would have liked to see how you put the compressor oil & dye in the system also but I got the general idea. Thanks for taking the time to do this!
The hardest part about A/C, is you are always working on it when it is a bazillion degrees outside! I wish people would bring in their A/C jobs when it's nicer out. . . .
Put your ester oil in a measuring cup and suck it into the system while you are pulling a vacuum and don’t ever charge your system with liquid refrigerant. Charging with liquid will destroy our compressor it not a pump
You can do it ether way. Pouring the oil into the dryer right before pulling a vacuum is ok in a pinch. you do want to make sure there is oil in the compressor either way. Though using the injector is the preferred method and the one I use.
I did not. If I remember, the old chevys have a low pressure switch to save the compressor if a line blows. there is a mechanical high pressure blow off on the compressor if a clog spikes your high side pressure.
Any time you open up a system you must replace, at a minimum, the drier. Best practice it to also replace the orifice tube. If you are opening up a system that has not been working in some time or that has been opened to the elements, replacing all the o-rings and flushing the system is a must. If your compressor has failed or you have found metal shavings in the system, no matter how small, the compressor and condenser should be replaced in addition to all the above things. The condenser is usually easy to reach but impossible to fully clean internally. to get the best results, it should be replaced during major a/c repairs if the system has been operating for 3 or more years as pag oil/mineral oil tends to congeal and trap debris in the bottom of the condenser. It could lead to less-than-ideal system operation, a clogged orifice tube, or a premature pump failure in the future. After you vacuum down the system, pressurize it with nitrogen to do the leak-down test for best results. Nitrogen doesn't carry moisture and won't fill the silica packets in the drier with moisture like compressed air or pollute like leak testing with refrigerant. Swapping from r12 to r134a, for best results, will require replacing the above listed items regardless of condition. you are using a new refrigerant and a new oil that is incompatible with the old oil. I have tried and failed to have an ice cold system last reliably without doing this. A conversion kit is required to change the service ports to r134a compatible. Don't use gauges that have been used on r12 for r134a. The PAG oil used for r134a is incompatible with the mineral oil used in r12. You'll probably find the r134a leaks out of the lines even though they seemed fine with r12. This is because the r134a molecule is smaller than the r12 molecule and the lines have become very porous over the years. That being said, I would replace all the rubber lines as well. So, to do it right you have really replaced every piece of the A/C system except the evaporator in the dash. The evaporator is usually buried in the dash and takes a crazy amount of time to replace so more often than not I flush it. A word of caution, don't be rough fitting the new parts to the evaporator or you'll crack the aluminum and fund yourself replacing it as well. I hope this helps.
What conversation kit is it mine in 91 s10 blazer the high side dose not fit r12 or 134a connection and kit only came with one a fitting that fits the low side and four others that don't fit high side.
there is something funky I remember about how those mount. I had to buy one of the larger “universal” kits that has 4 or 5 fittings in it. Go to NAPA (because their parts people are generally a little better) and get a list specifically to convert your vehicle. If all else fails, pull the line off and have a line and hose shop cut off the old fitting and weld the right fitting on.
Thank you lol I bought it from atuo zone and it didn't fit then bought one from Amazon same thing,pretty sure I have a leak but I wanna convert it before I start pulling things apart
Great video...just have a few questions. Did your new compressor come with oil already in it? If so, did you dump that out and then add new oil? I see you added the refrigerant before starting the engine and turning on the compressor. Most other videos say to start the engine and turn the AC on high before you ever start adding refrigerant. Is there any reason to do that? I like your way better. Finally, do the ounces on cans of refrigerant equate to weight or volume? Thanks in advance!
I have another video on the channel you should watch that is more in-depth. The new compressor came with a small amount of oil in it. The preferred method to service a completely empty system is to start filling with the engine off. The compressor shouldn't come on anyway if the pressure it too low because of the pressure switch. if you do it with the engine on, you run the risk of having the compressor cycle on-and-off multiple times because the low side will be pulled down to nearly vacuum. Most other videos are probably about hot-shot servicing a system that is low, not servicing one from vacuum properly with a scale. They are 1lb cans by weight. There is a little refrigerant loss in the lines so shoot for the top of the range.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades I have scoured the Internet, trying to find out why my AC pump had a vacuum when the AC was on. You are the first person to mention it.
The reason you use different amount of refrigerant is because of molecule size and how it behaves under pressure. I used the recommended amount of oil and it works fine. I haven't read anything about changing oil volumes based on which lubricant is used.
BurnoutsAndRotorblades Thank you for the reply! I’m changing out a compressor, accumulator, Orifice tube, condenser, high pressure line and retrofitting for a 92 Buick century. I’ve been worried about the amount of oil for sure! .....if you have time for one more question... is it absolutely necessary to change out a rubber A/C line hose that’s leak free when retrofitting?
no, but in my experience, the old lines don't hold the r13a refrigerant. The end of this video shows how previously "good" lines leaked out refrigerant like swiss cheese. It's a gamble you can take, but it could cost you a lot of work.
Good video. I'm about to tackle the AC in my 89 Toyota pickup. In the 16 years I've had it it's been filled twice, run good for about a month and then lost pressure again. I need to do a conversion to 134 and find the leak. This isn't specific my vehicle but seems like a good model to follow. I think I might just go ahead and get a proper set of gauges and a full size bottle instead of the small cans from the parts store... might as well learn to do this for all my cars.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades yeah, I imagine that would fix just about any problem on any AC system. That would be way down on the laundry list of things I need to do to that truck. I just wanted to convert to 134, identify the leak, and go from there
16 years is a good run. In Vegas, a system is only good for about 5 years. I would go ahead and replace the entire system. pump, dryer, orifice tube, condenser, soft lines, and evaporator. It would get you the best results.
I am often asked about what parts to replace when repairing or converting an A/C system. Below are some thoughts and best practices I use:
Any time I open up a system I always replace, at a minimum, the drier. Best practice is to also replace the orifice tube, and because they are so cheap I always do. Cleaning them never works, and usually if they are getting clogged there is a reason. If I am opening up a system that has been inoperative for some time or repairing a system that has been opened to the elements for a while, I replace all the o-rings and flush the system. If the compressor has failed or I find metal shavings in the system, no matter how small, the compressor and condenser get replaced in addition to all the above things. The condenser is usually easy to reach but impossible to fully clean internally. For best results, it should be replaced during major a/c repairs if the system has been operating for 3 or more years as PAG oil/mineral oil tends to congeal and trap debris in the bottom of the condenser. It could lead to less-than-ideal system operation, a clogged orifice tube, or a premature pump failure in the future. Expansion valves (if equipped) are a replace item for me if I have gone this far.
After I vacuum down the system, I pressurize it with nitrogen to do the leak-down test for best results. Nitrogen doesn't carry moisture and won't fill the silica packets in the drier with moisture like compressed air or pollute like leak testing with refrigerant.
Swapping from r12 to r134a, for best results, will require replacing the above listed items regardless of condition. The way I see it, I am using a new refrigerant and a new lubricant that is incompatible with the old lubricant. I have tried and failed to have an ice cold system last reliably without doing this. A conversion kit is required to change the service ports to r134a compatible. I don't use gauges that have been used on r12 for r134a. The PAG oil used for r134a is incompatible with the mineral oil used in r12 and having a second set of gauges for this reason just makes sense.
I have seen, and show in this video, that r134a leaks out of the lines even though they seemed fine with r12. This is because the r134a molecule is smaller than the r12 molecule. In addition, the lines have become very porous over the years. That being said, I replace all the rubber lines in an older system or a conversion.
So, to do it right I have really replaced every piece of the A/C system at this point, except the evaporator. The evaporator is usually buried in the dash and takes a crazy amount of time/work to replace. More often than not, I just flush the heck out of it. A word of caution, don't be rough fitting the new parts/lines to the evaporator or you'll crack the aluminum and fund yourself replacing it as well. Trust me. I hope this helps.
Very helpful video; Obligatory Liked and Sub’d! 🚙▶️👍
Condenser must have been FULL of compressor bits
it was. I eventually changed it.
Now if R-12 is corrosive to the Earth's ozone layer, why is it not corrosive to the ozone that is added to copper and aluminum tubing? Ozone is added to tubing so it can be shaped and bent without breaking..
It's all the same stuff and government wants us to think one thing and do another.
Are you trying to imply that somehow the refrigerant lines have ozone in them?
@@porcupinepunch6893 well yes, otherwise they would break when bending.
@@jimholmes2555 Do you have any sources for ozone being used for this?
@@porcupinepunch6893 it's called metallurgy, study up on it, you might learn something.
Perfect video for my situation thank you brother
Im working on the AC of my 87 s10 Blazer so i was glad i came across this video. Lots of good information. I would have liked to see how you put the compressor oil & dye in the system also but I got the general idea. Thanks for taking the time to do this!
what about condenser? they changed the system in 94 and changed design in the condenser as well
I don't know about the S10, but on my squarebody they did update the condenser for r134a. Have a look at the a/c video I did on my squarebody.
A
It looks easy but I don't think so. Its nice
The hardest part about A/C, is you are always working on it when it is a bazillion degrees outside! I wish people would bring in their A/C jobs when it's nicer out. . . .
Put your ester oil in a measuring cup and suck it into the system while you are pulling a vacuum and don’t ever charge your system with liquid refrigerant. Charging with liquid will destroy our compressor it not a pump
Do you pour your oil directly into the compressor or use the canister shown.
Brian Baker thanks for the info
You can do it ether way. Pouring the oil into the dryer right before pulling a vacuum is ok in a pinch. you do want to make sure there is oil in the compressor either way. Though using the injector is the preferred method and the one I use.
Always replace the old lines to handle the new refrigerant
If the refrigerant im adding has oil in it do I skip adding the oil?
You still math out the total amount of oil the system needs compared to how much you will add.
Did you put a 134 pressure switch on it ? If so where did you get it ?
I did not. If I remember, the old chevys have a low pressure switch to save the compressor if a line blows. there is a mechanical high pressure blow off on the compressor if a clog spikes your high side pressure.
Hi what I have to replace on may Honda prelude 1988 to convert AC from R12 to 134A ? thanks
Any time you open up a system you must replace, at a minimum, the drier. Best practice it to also replace the orifice tube. If you are opening up a system that has not been working in some time or that has been opened to the elements, replacing all the o-rings and flushing the system is a must. If your compressor has failed or you have found metal shavings in the system, no matter how small, the compressor and condenser should be replaced in addition to all the above things. The condenser is usually easy to reach but impossible to fully clean internally. to get the best results, it should be replaced during major a/c repairs if the system has been operating for 3 or more years as pag oil/mineral oil tends to congeal and trap debris in the bottom of the condenser. It could lead to less-than-ideal system operation, a clogged orifice tube, or a premature pump failure in the future.
After you vacuum down the system, pressurize it with nitrogen to do the leak-down test for best results. Nitrogen doesn't carry moisture and won't fill the silica packets in the drier with moisture like compressed air or pollute like leak testing with refrigerant.
Swapping from r12 to r134a, for best results, will require replacing the above listed items regardless of condition. you are using a new refrigerant and a new oil that is incompatible with the old oil. I have tried and failed to have an ice cold system last reliably without doing this. A conversion kit is required to change the service ports to r134a compatible. Don't use gauges that have been used on r12 for r134a. The PAG oil used for r134a is incompatible with the mineral oil used in r12.
You'll probably find the r134a leaks out of the lines even though they seemed fine with r12. This is because the r134a molecule is smaller than the r12 molecule and the lines have become very porous over the years. That being said, I would replace all the rubber lines as well.
So, to do it right you have really replaced every piece of the A/C system except the evaporator in the dash. The evaporator is usually buried in the dash and takes a crazy amount of time to replace so more often than not I flush it. A word of caution, don't be rough fitting the new parts to the evaporator or you'll crack the aluminum and fund yourself replacing it as well. I hope this helps.
What conversation kit is it mine in 91 s10 blazer the high side dose not fit r12 or 134a connection and kit only came with one a fitting that fits the low side and four others that don't fit high side.
there is something funky I remember about how those mount. I had to buy one of the larger “universal” kits that has 4 or 5 fittings in it. Go to NAPA (because their parts people are generally a little better) and get a list specifically to convert your vehicle. If all else fails, pull the line off and have a line and hose shop cut off the old fitting and weld the right fitting on.
كم مقدار الزيت الموضوع؟
There are websites that will tell you the specific amount of oil you need depending on your specific vehicle.
Hi brother, I don't know much English and I want to know what liquid or cleaner you used to clean the evaporator's internal ducts, thanks greetings
thank you very much bro👍🏻
Just google "a/c flush." Whatever is cheapest with good reviews from amazon is what I buy. good luck.
Where did you get the conversation kit? I been looking everywhere can't get one that fits
I bought a generic conversion kit from oh oh oh oreilly'sssssssssss.
Thank you lol
I bought it from atuo zone and it didn't fit then bought one from Amazon same thing,pretty sure I have a leak but I wanna convert it before I start pulling things apart
Great video...just have a few questions. Did your new compressor come with oil already in it? If so, did you dump that out and then add new oil? I see you added the refrigerant before starting the engine and turning on the compressor. Most other videos say to start the engine and turn the AC on high before you ever start adding refrigerant. Is there any reason to do that? I like your way better. Finally, do the ounces on cans of refrigerant equate to weight or volume? Thanks in advance!
I have another video on the channel you should watch that is more in-depth. The new compressor came with a small amount of oil in it. The preferred method to service a completely empty system is to start filling with the engine off. The compressor shouldn't come on anyway if the pressure it too low because of the pressure switch. if you do it with the engine on, you run the risk of having the compressor cycle on-and-off multiple times because the low side will be pulled down to nearly vacuum. Most other videos are probably about hot-shot servicing a system that is low, not servicing one from vacuum properly with a scale. They are 1lb cans by weight. There is a little refrigerant loss in the lines so shoot for the top of the range.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades I have scoured the Internet, trying to find out why my AC pump had a vacuum when the AC was on. You are the first person to mention it.
Do you also put 85% oil? I know you put 85% refrigerant but not sure if the same applies to the oil.
The reason you use different amount of refrigerant is because of molecule size and how it behaves under pressure. I used the recommended amount of oil and it works fine. I haven't read anything about changing oil volumes based on which lubricant is used.
BurnoutsAndRotorblades Thank you for the reply! I’m changing out a compressor, accumulator, Orifice tube, condenser, high pressure line and retrofitting for a 92 Buick century. I’ve been worried about the amount of oil for sure! .....if you have time for one more question... is it absolutely necessary to change out a rubber A/C line hose that’s leak free when retrofitting?
no, but in my experience, the old lines don't hold the r13a refrigerant. The end of this video shows how previously "good" lines leaked out refrigerant like swiss cheese. It's a gamble you can take, but it could cost you a lot of work.
BurnoutsAndRotorblades Thanks bro for the info and quick replies! You’re a life saver!
Hey man, did you use the original compressor for your s10? I've heard the pressure difference can ruin a r12 compressor?
I replaced the compressor..
Good video. I'm about to tackle the AC in my 89 Toyota pickup. In the 16 years I've had it it's been filled twice, run good for about a month and then lost pressure again. I need to do a conversion to 134 and find the leak. This isn't specific my vehicle but seems like a good model to follow. I think I might just go ahead and get a proper set of gauges and a full size bottle instead of the small cans from the parts store... might as well learn to do this for all my cars.
@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades yeah, I imagine that would fix just about any problem on any AC system. That would be way down on the laundry list of things I need to do to that truck. I just wanted to convert to 134, identify the leak, and go from there
16 years is a good run. In Vegas, a system is only good for about 5 years. I would go ahead and replace the entire system. pump, dryer, orifice tube, condenser, soft lines, and evaporator. It would get you the best results.