How to fix Nissan Patrol Steering Vibration and Wobbles GQ & GU
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- If you own a Nissan Patrol, GQ or GU Model, there is a good chance you have got, or will get steering vibrations between 80km and 100kms. This video is how to fix it.
4 Things to fix steering vibrations and wobbles on the Nissan Patrols:
- Wheel Balance
- Remove Swivel Hub Shims (what this video focuses on - fixes 99% of issues).
- Remove Panhard Rod Bushes
- Fit a return to centre steering damper
If you want to know how to fit a locker to your patrol for under $400 check out my other video.
Fixed. Simple as that. For the first time in 2 years, I drove my Patrol up the Mitchell Freeway at 100 kph, with exactly zero wobble and shake and horror.
THANK YOU SIR.
Nice video man, it's given me a good idea where to go next.
Just another bloke with his 2 cents but I Believe as previously stated this is only masking the problem. If this does fix the problem it would be due to excessive play due to worn bearings. If the shims are removed and the bearing preloaded again It won't be long before the rest of the case hardening on each roller wears out and then major failure. As a proper fix both bearings and races need to be replaced and then re shimmed to factory spec. Please correct if I'm wrong but I think all that is req'd to measure is a Newton gauge to measure the force req'd to turn the hub.
Great vid!
I had a vibration problem with speed around 60km/h - changed tyres, the problem remained. My mechanic wanted to work on braking discs, but fortunally I saw your video. Did as you have shown, vibration totally gone! If you ever come to Croatia, you have a weekend at the seaside. I can't thank you enough!
as a mechanic id highly recommend not BLINDLY removing the shims. If you absolutely believe the bearing preloads are the cause of the death wobbles then it should be re-shimmed as per the service manual. That means taking measurements with the required tooling!
Ive just gone through the problem on my own patrol, its a good idea to check suspension bushes first. unfortunately this means removing arms. id start with the panhard rod first as its the easiest, check the bushes then move onto removing the radius arm bushes. Ill be very surprised if you do not find the problem in these two areas.
If the bushes are fine then move onto stripping the hubs and re-shimming!
My friendly 2 cents on the matter
cheers
TheBayker12 it's a good quick fix to get ya home.
Problem solved for free video saved me so much messing around only took like half hour thanks for easy as video to follow 👍👍
Fixed the problem. I now have a lovely car to drive.
Good vid. Top stuff
Awesome mate took my wobbly GQ ute to a diff "expert" and said $1k to repair it after stressing out how I would pay I decided to do a you tube search and yes found your fix I took me 30mins to take 1 shim of both top caps and guess what no more death wobbles so thanks again as you just saved me $1K which I now can put towards Christmas for the kids thanks again p.s. does make me wonder how much money these diff experts are raking in...
Very clear, brief to the point and excellent info.
Great video keep it up I haven’t seen a simple video like this in a while
Hi mate, removed the shims on mine today as per your video, Woo Hoo!!! no more shake at all, thanks for posting.
Cheers Steve
Neglect is the cause pure and simple ! No shim removal ever
Omg this vid is a godsend Thankyou!
Four internet illiterate males a manual with half the pages missing and three days to figure out what I did in 10 minutes thanks to this video!! lol..... thanks again it fixed the problem...... :D
Good to hear mate.
Going to try this tomoz mate. Whether it works or not, you made a great video. I especially like how you talk about each bolt and their difficulties, because it's things like that, that derail most of my "fixing" of my rig.
Over the last couple of years I have changed every bush in the front end along with tie rod ends.
Also hub rebuild when I first got my 97 GQ .
New all terrains and rims.
Still wobbles at 90 to 100.
Only thing I haven't done is remove the shims.
There is a preload of .5 to 1.5kg on the swivel hub from memory.
Mate! You have saved me so much frustration! Many thanks for this video. My GU steering is like new again. Removed shims and the steering wobble is now gone!!! Legend 👍
I still remember the first time I took shims out and drove down the freeway. How good is it!
To all who removed your shims, you have a temporary fix only. The real problem is that the king pin bearings and bearing cups are worn. Find out by pulling the assembly down to hub level then remove steering rod ends and then manually by hand turn the hub and see how much resistance there is, the only fix is to renew it all by manufacturer spec. Done it and very happy with result. PS using genuine rubber bushes also saves a short term fix by using synthetic plastics.
You should never remove a shim from the top without doing the same underneath. Doing so will eventually cause oil to leak into your steering knuckle as the simmering is no longer aligned with the axle it seals around. The oil will in turn force the grease out of your wheelbearings and ruin them.
Great video - worked well, reduced my vibration by at least 80%. Cheers
Thanks for sharing bud. Fixed the problem. Drives like new again
Mate cant thank you enough. Im the new owner of a GQ and with only 108,000 kms on the clock I was totally perplexed by the100kms wobble, It did not feel like wheel balance and felt like drive line and. the vehicle was in to good of shape to have a drive shaft universal problem and it looked fine. I thought the worst and wondered if I had brought a lemon or a repaired wreck. So did the shim flick out on both sides and what a different vehicle to drive now. Its hard to believe it was possible that those very thin shims did that. Thanks again Cheers Wayne J
Too easy mate. So many cars affected by this, and its such a simple fix
Just did as you suggested, and test drove , cant thank you enough mate, as below.
Good to hear mate. Love hearing the success stories
good idea to make a video on this topic. I would also like to add a combination of worn radius arm bushes (where they bolt to chassis) and slight tire balance issues will cause a severe shake. just got mine sorted. cheers
Hi my friend thanks for everything 🙏🏼 I have Nissan patrol 2006 30,000 km and I have bad Strong vibration and my floor is straight from the factory. I have not changed anything except the steering damper
Spot on was my swivel hub bearings!! Thanks dude!!
Thanks for making this video. I am having this trouble with my steering wobbling at 80km so i am going to try this to see if it fixes it.
Hello ! Do you solved your problem ? :) Thanks
No offence to the bloke that made the video it was well made and mostly informative,
to people asking how the shim removal stops the vibration; the vibration is a sign that the parts in your steering pivot are worn and there is free play or movement in there, by removing the shim you are pushing the bearing into the housing further and this applies more pressure thus removing the free play. If you intended to keep the vehicle for long time save the money up and get it properly fixed as soon as possible
Ashley Hill How would one "properly" fix that? Replace the bearing?
This is masking the problem, if the bearings warn out, yes adjusting preload is nessesry but just pulling all shims out isn't the correct approach.
RTC is a straight up cover up and will load up your steering pump.
While the shim removal fixed my wobbles it also introduced a dull hum I could hear whilst driving, maybe to now much preload on the bearings?, just put shims back in to see if the hum will go away.
I use the return to center dampener and it works a treat on the GU.
+Aussie Pro Does it impact the steering at all? As in add more tension to turning?
Great vid mate. Good info, well presented. Thanks. I've got the wobbles, so will give this a try. Cheers
Thanks for the video, great job. Just woundering if anyone has had any other issues from removing the shim over the last year or so??? i had the wobbles then had an on car wheel ballance, it has fixed the problem. But if i get a flat im screwed, thanks in advance.
cheers for the vid matey:) ive got the Ford Maverick [GQ nissan patrol] and the same thing happens around 70kph, was bloody freaky the 1st time it happened!!! have regulary balanced the whees [twice a year] which seems to minimize it happening but will now try your trick and see if it eliminates the problem alltogether:)
side note,i dont mnd the little "drifting" to the left that happens cause that way if i fall a-sleep at wheel at least i'll be heading for the bush' and not oncoming traffic..
I had increased the tire pressure to 38psi now steering only got minimal shakes from 100 to 120km.
Good below or above.
Got BF ko2s
Thanks to your video, wobble problem solved. Cheers Mate!
Very good video thankyou I had same prob with my mk
removing kingpin shims only hides the problem, there are shims there for a reason! the issue is incorrect castor or worn out bushes which are most commonly panhard rod or radius arms. Also can be poor rim/tyre combos and not doing regular wheel rotations can do it
Great stuff. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
been looking for a vid on this, thanks mate
My wobble got really bad over time and I was desperate to get it fixed. I replaced the steering damper, new bushes all round, new panhard rods, new tie rod ends etc etc. Did nothing so I resigned myself to having the wobble....until I met a mechanic that new what the actual problem was and how to fix it! In fact he didn't even need to test drive the car, my description alone was enough for him to work out the problem! The problem: the geometry of the front end going out of whack. The answer: Eccentric wheel bearings! Still not like new but then my Patrol is 21 years old, nevertheless the effect was staggering to say the least, what a difference. Unfortunately it would seem that most mechanics don't know how to analyse the problem and flounder with every possible hit or miss solution in the hope that they finally hit the mark. If you have this problem and your mechanic reels off endless possibilities without certainty then change your mechanic.
Luke Thomsen did u find anything about them mate
GQ Ti wagon Dec 1991 build. 3rd owner. At time of purchase had ~80,000km on the clock. Vehicle like new & never off road. Toorak tractor. Over the years I tried the basic wheel balance, alignment etc to no avail. Never had any irregular tyre wear etc. Then I followed the advice of a forumite who raved about a guru down Mordialloc way, Vic. 3 hours later, after guru removed and mucked around with shims etc.. (Guru had said there was absolutely no wear in the steering and nothing obvious to cause shudder)... I was driving home on fwy and OMG DREAFUL! = far worse than before.. so U-turn & straight back... guru returned all to orig condition at no extra charge(still had to pay $300-400 for original work). So I bit the bullet and went to a highly regarded local (recommended by numerous mechanics) PEDDERS shop. Guessing it was at least 8 years ago now. Had the whole 'under suspension' Pedderised. Nothing fancy, just for normal road driving and towing horse trailer. Yes was expensive -about $2100. Yes it WORKED. Worth it? YIP. I reckon my vehicle is one of the best in Vic. Original(!) windscreen was replaced couple of days ago and repairer said the ceiling liner usually sags in these cars. Mine's tight as the day it was born. She's tight all round. Regularly serviced of course. Love this truck.
Such good information. Thanks
No worries mate
thanks for the video mate it gives me something to try on the weekend, ive had 3 balances, bushes look fine, however i will replace anyways but just wondering if you could explain how removing the shim actually removes the vibration?
its amazing how many i've told about this . and got told i didn't what i've talking about...
So basically your swivel hub bearing assemble is worn to the point the shims allow excessive movement as if one was to re-fit new bearing the shim stock is there to give a correct preload to the bearing contact surfaces to give or remove play.
ponders if you had replaced the bearing set and did the correct preload procedure if the shimmy had been fixed?
Here's the thing... Replace the swivel hub bearings with a brand new set and it's 50/50 chance you still have the wobble and shakes. Keep the old bearing set, and remove shims and 90% of the time, the shakes go away!... go figure.
I’m curious why the shims give so much steering vibration after coming out with them factory, what’s the reason I’m curious? Removing the shims doesn’t misplace the swivel bearing?
Managed to get three out, but the side I think is causing me the issues won't budge. Can't get a screw driver under it, can't tap it out of place. Any ideas? I want to try this to see if I have a bearing issue, and go from there. Thinking if this fixes it then I'll do the bearings and get it all swapped out.
Excellent video. Do i have to use a special grease for the swivel hub bearing or just normal graese?
FANTASTIC THANKS MATE
i get an awful shake at random times, its like as if i hit a bump and it sets off an allmighty wobble... I'll give this a go, deffinately rubber pan hards?
thanks heaps for sharing your knowledge.
It would appear the wobble is related to the swivel hub because REMOVING A SHIM increases or puts preload on the swivel bearings, removing any clearance in the bearing assembly . There is a right way to do most things, just removing shims is not the right way to repair the swivel hub assembly. These shims set preload between the upper and lower bearings, the preload is set to give a certain tension to keep the steering axis stable. On an older vehicle the bearings etc may be worn enough causing a loss of preload which allows the hub to move off the axle housing bearing centre-line causing the rotating wheel to move about without control. The workshop manual shows how to check and set up the swivel hub, for those who are not a mechanic or not capable, the best thing you can do to fix the wheel wobble problem IS TAKE THIS INFO YOU HAVE LEARNT TO A REPAIRER AND LET THEM INSPECT THE HUB AND DO THIS JOB CORRECTLY.
This video does not give you the right information to repair the fault correctly, which will lead to more problems.
I'm not trying to knock your video as you clearly have good knowledge of this problem, I just don't understand why you would do this in a slide show and not actually just do the video on your patrol??
Interesting i think I might try this myself thanks for the info
Commodores don't have any of these problems !!
Les Watkins I bet they would if they went the places my patrol goes lol
Wasn't a good idea was it. $$$$$
Paul Vidler Yes unfortunately this fix caused my axle seals to leak and destroyed the king pin bearings, all fixed with new bearings and shims and no shake now,
Are there any negative long term effects of this "fix". Nissan SA quoted me almost R7000 for the kingpin assembly and related parts.
I have done as sujested but no shims fitted.I have taken it to Nissan and had swivel hub bearings replaced and wheel bearings replaced $1200, and still got the same vibration,have changed shocks,wheels,tires,Bushing in arms .Nissan have had it a week and sent it to Pedders they say nothing wrong with it .But it vibrates at 90/100 kph some thing bad ..any ideas guys?
+Keith Wilson I had the same prob Keith, replaced everything except shims, Pedders said all good. Bull**** it still shook, put new tyres on front & all good. Reckon one was out of round inside laminating. Goes like a truck now. Spent $1700 on it & it was only a tire causing the vibes & massive shake. I put new Nissan Panhard rubber rod bushes on the week before going to pedders & he said they are stuffed & not genuine so work that out.
+Dick Crutch
Thanks for the reply Nissan sent car to peddlers found wheel bearings not installed correctly(by Nissan) they corrected it Nissan informed me to pick it up all OK they have had it 2 weeks now.I received it back and driving home took it up to 100 kph and guess what it done it again so rang them and back it went AGAIN this is the 4th time back with them this time they took arms apart looked at bushings etc .Told me my bonnet rubbers and gas struts where worn and an oil leak (what that had to do with the vibration i don't know)finally after another week they informed me they where taking it to a specialized wheel aliment and balance place .Apparently they find the heavy spots on tyres and match them to the wheels (same as aircraft tires and hub) the balance the wheel under load after another day . i received my car back and perfect all the way up to 100kph and beyond just a small vibe for a few seconds then smooth as silk the even re set the steering wheel to center .I would defiantly recommend this company here in WA Tyre Brigade Kelmscott.Next set of tyres and balance i am going to theses people (apparently he imported this machine for doing t Nissan's knowing they have this vibe problem.So all sweet now just the timeing belt in another 5000 k it will have done 400000 then .cheers
i got GQ patrol and that but happens at lower speeds and can shake pretty rough ??
hey mate.
just wondering what size the nut is on the panhard rod bushes?
mine has fallen off and im trying to find the right size nut.
thank for the help much appreciated
Great video, it helped
I have the same problem with my 2013.armada. it feels wobbly on bumpy roads. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem
It does help random wobbles right? not just all the time past a certain speed? D:
If the wobble happens because of the rear end not being square to the chassis, how do any of these fix that
You can't without serious modifications. It's easier to do this mod and alter the eventual affect of it - wearing of the swivel hub bearings.
Thank you for help
Awesome thanks 🙏.
hi this is an off topic question but i hope you can point me in the right direction, i have a 2005 gu nissan patrol (petrol model) whenever i turn my steering wheel i hear and feel through the floor on the drivers side a loud crack/clack sound as if something gave way and broke off, no mechanic has been able to put a finger on what it is or where the sound comes from. any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers.
Hi mate does it do it when in 4 wheel drive only? Or it does it in 2 wheel drive as well.
hi sorry, haven't been online for a bit, yeah it does it in two wheels also, when stopping or going over a small bump in the road, i changed the whole bushings below A to Z including stabilizer bar bushings and stabilizer rods i also new shocks, the cracks still there, now i suspect it may be body mounts but never had this experience with any previous 4x4 i've owned like 1994 nissan patrol.
so i'll consider any advice because it's an embarassing sound.
mukusman My suggestion would be, get yourself a couple of good jack stands. They are about $80 a pair. Jack up the front of the car and put the jack stands under it. Get your mrs to jump in and turn the steering wheel, and you can have a look under where the sound is coming from to try and determine what the sound is. Whatever it is, it isn't common so unfortunately Im not sure what it might be. Perhaps where the body meets the chassis, perhaps its suspension related. Check the spring is mounted up the right way, someone may have removed it and refitted it upside down, and because it isnt seated, when you turn, the spring moves a bit causing the sound ? Let me know how you go. Cheers, Tim
Hi mate. Mines just starting to make the same noises. It's bloody awful and getting worse!! Did you finally get to the bottom of the issue?
Sounds like your body mounts are shot, you just need to replace them. I had the same issues.
fantastic, thank you
Do u need to remove both top and bottom shims from the assembly or can u just do the top ?
Take one off bottom one off top. See how u go. Usually top and bottom bearings have worn evenly so removing one from each works.
just a question, how would removing the bearing shims fix the wobble or vibration? I just like understanding the logic behind it before i do it as im not to mechanically minded. Thanks
The bearing and race is tapered, so when you remove the shim the bearing will sit closer and tighter in the race.
I imagine that if you do remove the shim, it would be a good idea to put some gasket or grease sealant around the edges to alleviate any water ingress
Champ! Thanks bud
why do the shims make the vibration?
what actually happens whenyou take them off?
matty james
Did you have the vibration when braking on the left hand side? Tia
No, the common problem is an ongoing vibration between ~80-100kms. Vibration when braking on LHS: check LHS wheel bearing, remove wheel and check disc rotor surface and brake pads.
awesome thx great vid
As a GU professional, are you going to help me build mine ;P
Sure :D
Please don't do what he is recommending in regards to return to centre damper as they are only small bore low oil volume and fade quickly then the spring which now has poor damping acts to induce wheel shimmy, if the swivel hub bearings are correctly preloaded DEFINITELY NOT THE WAY THIS CHAP WITH GOOD INTENTIONS IS SAYING and other steering suspension components are good you won't have a problem. By removing a shim from swivel hubs that have done a few kms (80,000 plus) when the steering is turned off straight ahead which is 99.9% of there working life they are now extremely loaded meaning preloaded which will end up with them colapsing so what needs to happen is new bearings fitted preloaded correctly also keeping in mind the shims are there to keep the axle and swivel hub centred in the diff housing. I hope that helps.
Awsome mate I'll try it out what's your email
Aaaaaaaaaahhhhh.