DEATH WOBBLE 80 SERIES LANDCRUISER - CAUGHT ON CAMERA
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- Опубліковано 11 кві 2019
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G'Day Guys,
So the Mighty 80 series has developed a fairly serious death wobble at around 60 - 70 kmh and i have no idea why!!! Chheck out the footage and if you can help or off any tips or sugestions please drop them in the comments below.
Cheers Legends, SkidPig
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I HAVE DONE A FOLLOW UP VIDEO WITH THE FIX ON THE CHANNEL GUYS, THANKS FOR YOUR HELP 🍻🍻
Got a link to video? I cant find it champ!
I have the same problem on the 70 series 2011 help!!!
where is the video mate..
and what have you done to fix the problem?
@@fernandomartins6649 He just aligned the vehicle and balanced the front tires and that solved the problem. In my case I changed the 4 steering terminals and the stabilizer bar links. it is worth making the clarification: the terminals did not feel bad but they were loose, they no longer had resistance when moving them by hand.
El solo alineó el vehículo y balanceó las llantas delanteras y con eso solventó el problema. En mi caso cambié los 4 terminales de dirección y los enlaces de la barra estabilizadora. vale hacer la aclaración: los terminales no se sentían malos pero estaban flojos, ya no tenían resistencia al moverlos con la mano.
@@fernandomartins6649 Yeah he fixed it mate, cost him over $100 Grand ... He bought a RAM... as an added bonus , it even added 2 cylinders, LOL... ( Sorry Skid Pig, i couldnt resist )
I noticed the problem right off the bat. SHEESH. The steering wheel is on the wrong side. Duh!
Lol
@Tt Miller USA.
It’s Australia you drive on the left the steering wheel is on the right
@@420family9 Ummmmm........ No shit????
@@Sidheavonney the username tells you everything you need to know.
80% of the time death wobble is panhard rod bushes and the other 20% of the time its drag link and track rod ends worn. Go over those components with a fine tooth comb and guaranteed you'll find one or two worn things that need replacing.
Yup
Ha, wrong. Shitty lift. Castor angle to steep. Turn back 2.5 deg. Learn the basics haha.
@@roberthoard639 lol my death wobble went away after I replaced some bushings
@@zacharyhuntsman7310 worn out stuff exaggerates it ,let the frequency converge not diverge. Kook at the castor/kingpin angle on a top fuel car. Now look at the castor angle on a gp road race bike. The gp bike needs a steering damper. The top fuel car does not. Why? Geometry. Doe you also struggle with drive line vibration? Ill bet you don't get u joints either. Hahahh. I work late at night. To easy to talk shit. Dont mean anything by it. But seriously castor settles everything down. . New bushing are just holding it tight. It wants to shake.
Your trac/panhard bar looks like it has a loose joint at the frame. ⁹/10 times that's the cause of the death wobble you're experiencing.
I think you got it right. It looks like its barely connected to the frame. About to completley come apart.
Yeah front solid axle illness these Panhard rods.
In the rear its not an issue but in the front because there is some play in the steering it can initiate the wobble..
Quite dangerous Indeed
@@waugy370z8 the chassis crack on the steering rack and on the panhard mount on the chassis also... look for fine cracks.
My work vehicle (PK ranger) randomly does the same thing in 4th gear / 70kmh. I notice it most on cold days.
hey mate, from my 80 series knowledge, check tyres for separation firstly.
-2nd Check all drive arm bolts are tight and bushes
-3rd check for any cracks around your steering box 80 series are well known for cracking around there with big lifts and tyres putting pressure on that side. let me know how you go
Check your wheel bearings for play and check panhard on chassis end, panhard looks like its moving ALOT from that end, i have had an 80 and a few GU with loose panhard bolts also wont hurt to check the hub swivel bearings for play.
This is what i did it fixed my wobble.
It's either steering stabilizer or track bar you may have to re balance your wheels
I've experienced the same thing in my patrol. Similar to you, the steering joints were in tight condition, then i fitted an aftermarket RTC dampner and it got worse. (The valving was less than factory)
My fix was fitting duel steering dampners which Eliminates the shake 100%. I cant even do it if i try - mud in rims etc. Patrols are known for steering shake, but not mine now! ;)
Couple of things that ive personally seen fix the death wobble. Panhard rod bushes, more preload on the swivel hub bearings, loose wheel bearings, incorrect castor due to lift kit being fitted without drop boxes (if over 3-4”) or offset control arm bushes.
(I am a mechanic in aus with plenty of experience on modified 80 series cruisers)
Also check the rear bushes on the front control arms.
From the footage its still a bit hard to see. Try starting the car up and have a second person rock the steering left to right so you can load up the steering joints while you look for freeplay.
Front Track Bar.
Ball Joints.
Drag Link/Tie Rod Ends.
Upper Control Arms.
Lower Control Arms.
Suspension Bushings.
Steering Stabilizer.
Steering Knuckles.
Totally agree. Could be one of the items on the list or all. Add caster correction to the list.
Check the tires aswell because tires out of balance can cause it.
Tyres pressure
Tyres balance
Front u joints at the wheel, my WJ was tight everywhere....then we checked them as a last resort!
Problem fixed!
What's your caster angle sitting at also when they did your knuckles did they do they up to correct preload
Had identical issue in a Sierra. Turned out being a front tyre that was “lumpy” (not round). Tyre Power identified the issue immediately just by eyeballing the brand of tyre.
I had this issue with my Chevrolet M1008 military truck. I looked at everything, and it turned out to be the tires, rotating them solved the issue. I think it happens from a wear pattern / oversize tire / and tire compound combination. I had Maxis tires originally, and they had fairly soft / sticky compound with an aggressive pattern. I replaced them with a BFG that has a harder compound, but still has an aggressive pattern. I also rotate on a more frequent schedule now. All the knuckles, steering gear, and geometry are all designed for a tire and wheel size smaller than what we'd ever likely use off road. I think a bigger steering dampener may help, looks like you may be still running the stock one with the oversize tires..
Start with wheel balance weights.
The littlest thing can start this off same happened on my defender 90
Had a problem like that on a van I had and changed the steering stabilizer shock and it worked for me. good luck😆
I had the same problem with a short base patrol and it turned out to be the front springs on the left had snaped off but would sit in place untill you got to 80km then would start shaking.
Hope it helps
that damper (steering stabilizer) looks like it's shot.
That wont matter
drivers side front most likely castor or pinion angle or out of alignment. but could be something loose there but it definatly starts from the drivers side
I had the same problem with my 80 mate.
Turn out the be the chassis was cracked behind the steering box, the steering box was moving side to side. Have a look around a few guys make plates that weld on to the chassis rail behind the box..
Hope that helps..
I had the same problem in my Jeep. It was the bushing that connect the bottom two control arms to the axle
My 91 dodge did that around 80kmh and i replaced my steering stabilizer and fixed it
On my 98 dodge 1500 I had replaced all the springs shocks pan hard bar change both steering stabilizer shocks change stabilizer arms and has a wobble start coming to find out I had a tire separate.
you check the wheel bearings? they love to loosen up
and the stabilizer looks bad.
Hi mate,
Had the same thing on my 80. When 4x4's are modified, big tires, lifts and lots of after market parts, it only takes one thing to be out just a tiny bit and shit like that can happen. The factory steering geometry is set for optimum handling, once you change things, you mess with that geometry. You need to keep things, like caster angle, as close to factory spec as you can. Also check the steering damper. That was the week link in mine. And like others have said, the chassis can crack around the steering box mount. Any unwanted play in anything needs to be removed. Could be just one little thing. Like a slight buckle in a rim and a dodgy steering damper set off by the right bump in the road and off it can go.
Good luck
My 80 did the same for a while. Turned out 1 panhard rod bolt was loose.
In the video this is what Noticed as well, watch the panhard bolt that connects the dampener
Definitely the Panhard rod my mates patrol did the same thing change that and we were go to go again
Check your steering box bolts or the panhard rod chassis mount those are both shaking a lot.
agreed.
And cracks around them
My 99 GU patrol was doing a very similar thing at around 80kms. Changed the steering damper and all was fine after that. Different car I know, but hope it helps 👍🏻
Inner cv joint bearing broken or one of the 3 on the knuckle is stuck
new steering damper and panhard rod bushes
Don't know about Toyotas but Jeeps can be notorious for the wobble and it's never the damper.
ya i thought the same thing
Generally panhard bushes or cracked chassis around steering box bud........contact me on ig : @big_80_bus
Yip agreed my cruiser had the big crack around the steering box.
@Tt Miller yeah i found once the chassis started to flex from cornering it continued to flex but that was just my wagon. It was pretty scary thats for sure.
My 93 XJ had a loose nut connecting pitman arm to drag link. Tightened up the nut. Death wobble gone. But a few months later I noticed like someone said, they noticed flex. Yup, big ole crack in the frame next to steering box. Still drove it for a year, puckered up every right hand turn.
I had that problem on my gu patrol at 80k. I removed the shims from the King pin bearing and been fine ever since
I had the same issue on my 76 series. Check wheel bearings. I ended up changing steering stabilizer, all bushings, balanced and rotated the tires. It still happened until I changed the wheel bearings.
Just did the UNI Joint in my 80, it was EXACTLY THAT!!!
I had the exact same sympttoms
Cheap and easy
Guys my Toyota is in Africa and am having exactly the same problem. Only Universal joint needs to be changed?
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Yes 👍
I end up working on Jeep's all the time with the same problem it's almost always track bar bushings if your running 35" I'd recommend dual steering stabilizers as well
steering damper bolts are loose had same problem on all three of my GQ all same thing after changing everything on front end
Mate, ex front end mechanic, this was a common thing way back with beam axle 4wd's. Check the castor angle, to high castor was the problem back then, some companies sold castor wedges to sit between the leaf spring and diff housing to reduce it. You obviously have a different set up but Narellan Truck Align sell a knuckle bearing kit adjuster to fix the issue. Good luck.
Uplift suspension giving less caster?
Michael Beginning Shaiya Why wouldn’t it change caster?? When lifting the car the axle housing rotates due to the radiusarms, so caster changes..
@@winta11 Achieving more positive castor is the fix. When he says the "castor is too high" he's saying the the castor angle is not leaned back enough at the top of the spindle. He's not wrong
Michael Beginning Shaiya Lifting the suspension decreases castor angle in a solid axle setup, the radius arms are bolted to the chassis and diff housing to stop axial movement. When you place a bigger spring between the diff and chassis the suspension moves downward, and slightly pivots towards the centre of the vehicle. You often loose a couple degrees of castor which makes a big difference. Steering becomes vague and less responsive but easier to turn resulting in wandering on the road.
Has it been lifted much? With the arm setup on these (land rover is the same) as you lift the car the front castor angle reduces. This is because the arms pivot from a central point. Castor is what gives your steering it's self centering ability and keeps the wheel pointing straight ahead. I've seen replacement arms with mounts that rotate the diff housing slightly to add more castor in to compensate.
Tyre balancing? I had a similar problem after I had new tyres fitted, turns out that this stuff called soft soap that they used to get the tyres on the rims was melting and hardening as the tyre heated and cooled.. That caused the unbalanced motion occasionally
Cracked steering arm mount or steering damper mount is cracked?
The preload on the kingpin bearing is to loose easy fix done hundreds of them.
Will check it out
Spot on I've done heaps of them also.
at 2:00 you can literally hear the tires are not balanced properly. also rotating mud tires you want to keep them on the same side. just switch them front to rear. I'm willing to bet that tire balance or poor tread wear patterns from improper balance is your issue
its your king pin bearings mate, im from townsville at well this is pretty cool that youve got a youtube channel🤙
Would it be incorrect toe in or out on front wheels, seems like that would do it, one wheel fights the other to keep straight. ???
I had a similar shake at 100km/h and turned out one of my Bridgestone tyres was no good. Bridgestone head office changed the tyres and problem resolved
Looks Bad ,I’m no mechanic however I have had very similar issue in a Tojo, it was eventually sorted with additional pre load shims on the hub bearing pins.
I had a similar problem. What's my Jeep? Wrangler Unlimited kind of the same size as your vehicle. The tires weren't properly balanced.
Hi hv you rectify the main cause?
Wow...could be a bunch of things...alignment, tie rod, ball joint, wheel balance...ugh..... bikes are easier. Good luck with it !
bikes are better and way easier they go anymore you can walk aswell the slowness of 4wd i can't stand
@@hamish2202 But tricky getting to work when the roads are like hockey rinks though :P
All for that and might be wheel bearing
Agreed. But there's nothing like 4wd. In a truck you don't care about. Nothing tops that
Interesting to see this. I had an IH Scout do that. Sometimes slop doesn’t show unless you put a pry bar to components or jack it up a bit to take pressure off. Have alignment checked. Shimmy damper needs checked. A bit of toe in might help. Agree that delaminated tires or out of balance can set this off.
Had the same problem on a 95" jeep after a new 6" lift kit was instaled. my track bar was to short installed a new longer bar no more death wobel.
Toe in is off. Had the same problem when they put in time rod end in alignment off
Lack of positive castor is a common alignment issue that causes death wobble as well.
@@edjackson4389 0 deg caster wont cause wobble on its own, but lack of caster will amplify a worn panhard bush or steering component into a wobble.
@@10GTE Yes it will. Tall heavy tires combined with 0 deg castor is guaranteed death wobble. Hell, it doesnt even have to be 0. I dont care if the vehicle is brand new. Been thru this with several brand new Wranglers.
Everything I’ve looked up said the track bar!!
Deerslyr81 yep. My track bar broke away from its captured nut on the diff.....caused all sorts of scary shit.
Hi again, was chatting with a mate who fits n sells tyres. He said to swap front to back, don’t Criss Cross the tyres as it’s not common practice for off road tyres as some have a direction of travel.
Hope this helps 😊
Yep I agree check the tires for bulges or high spots on the tread and rotate them front to back. Left front left back and right front right back
After replacing everything on ours, it turned out to be wheel caster. It started after installing a lift. We replaced nearly everything trying to fix it and once we corrected the caster the wobbling hasn't come back.
100% it’s your flux capacitor!!
I have 3 fitted
The flux capacitor needs a drop bear to operate properly. If you have more than one flux capacitor you need to add a hoop snake
@@JimmyStewpot Ok, I have recently installed a level 3 drop bear onto the roof rack and I can notice a difference. Hook snake is on back order
Refresh the flux, then either tighten or loosen the capacitor or leave it alone.
could be alignment, tie rod, ball joint, wheel balance, bearings, steering , list goes on
Wheel needs balanced 🤔
It’s most definitely the panhard / track bar. Had the same issue with a 1996 Cherokee and a new adjustable track bar fixed the problem immediately
Jeeps are notorious for the trac bar bracket going to poo! Any death wobble or just a wobble at all it's that area almost every time. Lots of people will argue tires are not round but usually they are worn like that because of the trac bar! LoL
Here in the US death wobble is most common in lifted Jeeps. I've owned many and dealt with bad wobble in a few different Jeeps. I've had wobble because of bad ball joints, wobble because of bad front track bar and control arm polyurethane and wobble because of bad tie rod ends. You have to get into it and check things with as closely as you can. Good luck!
When fitting the aftermarket suspension in your vehicle, the kingpin inclination must have changed a degree or two making the wheels want to caster a bit.
In other words, the whole diff housing has rotated with the pinion flange (the bit where the front propshaft bolts in to) moving up towards the body.
Some high lift kits do this in order to accommodate the propshaft angle to save the universal joints in extreme movements.
The kingpin inclination in solid axle vehicles is built in to the axle, so the moment you tilt the diff upwards to minimise the propshaft angle, the whole geometry goes for a.ball of shit.
To fix it, go back to standard suspension, or get a lift kit that does not change the angle of the diff.
Or just drive slow...
That's exactly the issue here with vibrating front wheels. The lift is the factor for messed up angles.
Yeah balljoints, tie rod ends, steering rack or box panhard joints. I lived with this on a Jeep JK after a year. Big tyres, smashing tracks, it wears shit out man. It all costs money but the longer you leave it the more expensive it gets. Death wobble will end up tearing off mounting points and totally tearing apart every joint and bushing in the front end, or it will kill ya. Stay safe bro...
Do you check aligment of wheel?
Have the wheel bearings gone over . One could be loose. It does it such low speed to so I dont think its tires. Did it happen after the hubs were done?
Check tyres for a bubble could be plies delaminating.
Need to rotate tyres & have them balanced man 👍 that’ll sort it out
Yeah mate that was it
Had the exact same thing when a mob did a dodgy balance and alignment on my old 80
That was my first thought
@@SkidPig and if that didn't sort it, replace the front shock absorbers in the ones i have seen before, 1 Tyre balance, 2 replace shockers.
Mate I was going to say the same thing. I have an 80 with 35’s, and they started shaking like shit. Thankfully I also sell balancers. One thing I would stress, make sure whoever balances your wheels uses finger plates. Being located on studs and not the hub like a car, this is super critical. You can end up with a residual unbalance worst than when it went in.
I have had the same problem and I have had issues with transmission mounts breaking and that cause the same death wobble also had a universal join in drive shaft go bad and it causes the same problem. Good luck and let us know what ya find out.
Yep, i had the exact same problem with the exact same symptoms. It plagued my vehicle for more than 200000 km. I tried multiple mechanics with no one being able to completely fix it until recently. The main cause of the problem is you have a cracked/leaking diaphragm in your brake booster and causes the brakes to slowly but surely apply as you drive. The discs inevitably end up with a warp and as the vehicle ages the control arm bushings amongst a few other things developed a bit of wear and play on which in turn allows the wobble to develop and happen. As this problem starts to happen if you pull over on a slight incline you'll actually feel your brakes are slightly stuck on and if i mashed my brake pedal quickly i would feel the brakes release and the vechicle would start to roll Freelee. If i did this at the start of the wobble it would usually stop the wobble from happening until it would slowly but surely start to happen again at some point as the brakes would reapply. Not sure where you live but Jakes brakes and suspension at Yatala fixed my vechicle of this problem. Let me know if you need any more information.
Swivel hub bearings might have to much play in them you might need to take out some shims my Mk Nissan Patrol use to do it.
This is the go!
That and possible panhard rod bushes
@@tonka4407 his could be a panard problem but I don't have a panard rod on my patrol my 4wd is leaf spring front and rear and it can still be a cause for death wobble on a coil spring 4wd if the rest of the steering is good he said he change the swivel hub bearings so that would change the clearances with new bearings and new bearing cups will be different to the old ones for clearance you only take one shim out one the top and bottom on each side to take up the play even GU patrols are the same.
My gu has done it 3 different times. The first 2 it was the panhard rod bushes and also radius arm bushes on the first one and the third time it was the swivel hub bearings and the wheel bearings were loose
@@craigmandall9420 Yeah mate sounds about normal any solid Axel 4wd can get the death wobbles if something isn't right.
Steering damper is faulty, 99% of the time
If everything right, you shouldnt need one.
I agree with milu. Every Jeep death wobble I’ve fixed has been the steering damper.
Replace the dampener, if it makes your death wobble go away than good. You'll be dealing with what really caused the problem later down the road.
My fathers land rover discovery had this problem. Also steering damper.
Got nothing to the with steering damper
You said you had your swivel hubs done, did it do it before that, was the pre load checked on them correctly, they my need bigger shims to tighten them up, also my brothers 80 did the same thing and it turned out his front penard mounts where cracked. Check over every little weld it only takes a small crack for thing to flex and move
Two questions......how old is your steering damper and what offset you running on those rims?
Id start by replacing all bushings/bolts/ball joints and the steering stabilizer!
This looks like a geometry issue I'm sure your camber angle has been altered by the suspension lift.
Had the JK death wobble. Was the tyres not balanced correctly.
I had the same problem with my wrangler and after changing the bushes it went away and never happend again.
Wheel balnacing does that and also the prop shaft might have a dent so you can have that balanced too
Look at both your wheels they are moving sideways on the bearings and CV Joints as if you are floating from inner to outer bearing and have no preload at all on ya bearings.(Free wheeling hubs) Each time you stop you realline your hubs with ya disk brakes Check ya Bearing play, "when ya brake disks are backed off" or remove ya Free wheeling hubs and check ya preload. you are driving a TRUCK not a CAR ??
This, with bells on, started at hubs first, ergo, check bearings.
Same thing happened on my 100 series after playing in the mud. Wheels were out of balance from caked on mud that hardened over night.
A mate of mine had the same thing. Found both of his front wheel spacers were cracked. (ditched them now).
Wheel weights are the problem almost all wheel wobble above certain speed is caused by unbalanced wheels. Deal with this on a daily basis in the garage and 99% fixed when wheels are re- balanced.
Wheel vibration yes, death wobble, not so much. Generally, you only get death wobble is 4X4 trucks and SUVs with a live front axle, and it's generally caused by a mix of terrible steering/suspension geometry and worn parts like the stabilizer shock and bushings in the control arms.
Mate to me it looks like your caster is set wrong.
Simular to a shopping trolley.
Now it dose and now it doesn't.
Same as what you have.
check your swivel preload, happens on defenders, usually triggered by a slightly unbalanced wheel.
when was the last time you got them realined
I was going to say man get all your tyres balanced and that would fix it but noticed in your comments man you got it sorted 🤙🍻 cheers brother 🍻
Hey Jimmy, my gu has done it a few times. It was panhard bushes twice with radius bushes once as well. And the last time it was too much play in the wheel bearings and swivel hub bearings
Bloody curious to find out what it is as my rig is doing something very similar but no where near as severe as that. She's a 105 series which basically is a 100 series body on an 80 series chassis.
im running 37s and i dont have this problem. make sure you got the right bushes in the radius arms and you might have the wrong offset. some radius arms already have the offset worked into them like mine which are snake racing so i just standard bushings in. also check if steering box mount is cracked as that helped fix mine aswell
I had a 80 series do the same thing back in 2007 at the time it had caster plates on the front changed them to 5” drop boxes and it went away. And another one did it and it was a combo of cracked steering box mounts and chassis crossbeam the one that links the two sides together
Same happened to my L/R defender .... the cause of the problem originated from the rear axle. Would suggest thorough inspection of rear suspension , bushes joints etc .
G’day,
I had same problem at 90km/h , had the tyres re balanced (finger balanced )
the steel rim centre tabs were worn and gave the cone a false centre (bad balance results )
Finger balancing is the way to go 😊
Idk never seen that sort of crazyness bro best of luck to ya mate
i had an old f100 4x4 that used to get the wobbles just like that turned out to be the steering damper
What was the fix for this in the end?
Hey Skid, my GQ used to do the same thing. If you have polyurethane pan-hard bushes as part of your superior kit, piss them off and put in genuine rubber ones, then make sure they are done up faaaarking tight. That fixed my GQ, 100%
Had the same problem on my F150, went through everything, ended up been tyres after swapping rears to front
Man that is very severe. Great idea to put the camera underneath. Hope its sorted soon Mate.
Are your tires balanced? I see you have a dampener, but I experienced this same event on my 1971 fj40 after fitting large tires. After balancing it is almost cured, but it is near impossible to balance big rubber for every speed.
is one caster bush missing from passenger radius arm ???
My 80 had the same issue and turned out to be the stearing box mounting plate was pulled out of the chassie and it also broke the welded strengething bar from the bottom of the bracket . Chassie had to be repaired and plated.