Change Chain and Front and Rear Sprockets, Suzuki V-Strom (Part 1)
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- The Urban Monk details how he changes the front and rear sprockets and the drive chain on his Suzuki V-Strom 1000 (DL1000). He shows how he cuts the chain with an angle grinder and chain breaking tool and how to disassemble the clutch slave cylinder, sprocket cover, and front sprocket speed sensor rotor. Perfect for anyone who wants to remove and replace a front sprocket, rear sprocket or chain on just about any motorcycle.
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Dope! Working on my newly acquired r1 doing a full rehab, and i had the rear wheel off for brake rebuild, rotors, dampeners, bearings, sprocket, and i was wondering how to get thet front sprocket off. Golden idea! Thanks for sharing.
@@D3monicBlaze Thanks for watching! Enjoy your r1 - fun machine.
This has been really useful for me. Especially the trick securing the chain with the screwdriver.
Thanks so much from Somerset, England!
Thanks for watching! It's one way to do it. There are others.
put the bike in gear
I'm about to purchase a 2011 V-Strom 1000. I've watched a number of your shows and I'm impressed. Took the time to bookmark a bunch more for future reference. Great videos, very informative and well done. Thumbs up!
Thank you! Enjoy your new Strom! I never thought I'd keep mine as long as I have and now I can't see myself ever getting rid of it.
In the middle of my first front sprocket change. Following along with your video even though I've already watched it several times. Thanks so much for helping me show my 60K mile '08 DL1000 some love.
Thanks for watching! Great bikes.
Great video! Perfect timing as I'm anticipating a chain replacement on my next set of tires (this fall). Excellent work, although I'm sure your family was awake by 16:15. :) Thanks for posting!
Dan Koerner Yes, they were definitely awake by then. Or, perhaps I edited out the butt-chewing I received from my wife shortly after. 😉
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I was dumb forgot the account password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Dakari Colin Instablaster :)
@Milan Ahmad Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Milan Ahmad it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
If you must use your hand to hit spanners and ratchets, try going across your hand using the flashy parts rather than lengthways where you gang crush the carpel tunnel where the nerves run. You can cause issues with dexterity if you crush those nerves
Thanks for watching and for your insights.
I'm looking for advice: what is better to buy for motorcycle maintenance, a central footrest or a rear tackle, or maybe a mini lift? For rare simple garage jobs. Vstrom650 2014
If by "rear tackle" you mean a rear paddock stand that lifts the bike from the swingarm then I would say that plus a simple floor jack sometimes. I use those two more often than my full motorcycle lift. Personal preference. Thanks for watching!
not sure if it’s mentioned but looks like that front sprocket has dampening built in which is why it’s a beefier sprocket
Yes, you're correct. This video was shot years ago and I have used non-dampened front sprockets ever since with no issues or complaints. FWIW. Thanks for watching!
Slick trick! Thanks . 32 mm?! dang it! Thanks for the heads up on that as well glad I watched this.
Not 32mm but 1" 1/4.
Great vid! I usually just cut the chain off with a hacksaw. Saves a few moves!
Whatever gets the job done, right? 👍 Thanks for watching!
2:15 - First thing you want to do is zip tie the clutch handle down. That's how at 4:05 he just pulls the one part off, leaving the actual rod in the system. If you don't pull the clutch in, the clutch fluid is going to spill and leak everywhere and you'll end up having to bleed the system for half an hour.
@@SlandersPete I didn't tie clutch handle down. It doesn't leak if you don't. It's a closed system.
@@UrbanMonkTVI can also attest to that, I removed the slave cylinder and didn't tie down the clutch lever and no leakage happened.
@@HLMM_KE Thanks for weighing in!
@@UrbanMonkTV Hey, one question on the front sprocket. I have a 17tooth sprocket on my 1050XT. I want to change to a 15 tooth sprocket becasue I ride in slow traffic everyday and I need the low low end torque. I don't mind reduced top speed becasue I dont think I want to be doing that anywhere. Do you think the 15 tooth front sprocket will be detrimental to the motorbike in any way?
@@HLMM_KE Not detrimental at all, other than the engine will average higher rpms, but you said you don't ride top gear high speeds anyway. On the other end of the spectrum...your engine will experience lower load forces at lower rpms and one could argue that would be more gentle to your engine and clutch.
Thank you really good information
Thanks for watching!
why would you put thread locker on the rear sprocket studs, you are using nylock self locking nuts that are torqued to spec?
isn't it necessary to squeeze the clutch lever when you take down the clutch slave cylinder?
Only if one is "opening the system." Thanks for watching!
Good video. I have an SV 1000s and just to note, the slave cylinder is not sealed (just a rubber gasket on back) and when it gets gunked up and stuck by old lube, it will come off and then leak out. No big deal really but good to know. other than that, a great summation and helpful! Thanks!
Peter Rosendale Great tip! I love how UA-cam enables the collective community to help each other out. Thanks for watching.
Urban Monk TV absolutely! There’s very little for the Sv 1000 so finding good videos with a Vstrom is the next best thing. Take care!
@@peterrosendale7759 very true!!
Sir: on the front sprocket whether it's USA spec or the 650 or 1000 or 1050...they all leave the factory with a rubberized front sprocket. It is not a cush-drive effect for said sprocket but rather a very tiny sound minimizing deal for the Euro weenies who feel the need to legislate every damn thing. Suzuki says the rubberized front sprocket reduces chain noise and output shaft noise by as much as 2 dB's during ride by testing. Most techs including myself typically replace the front with a plain steel JT brand in whatever tooth count you desire. Hoping that helps.
Thanks for watching and sharing your insights. Yes, I've run JTs ever since changing the first time (now at 84,000 miles) and no issues with plain sprocket.
@@UrbanMonkTV My pleasure Sir and you did what most all the rest of us do. Replace the rubberized one with plain quality JT steel.
I own a DL1000ZAL8, but my question is about a GS550 build (working a GS750 Scrambler).
Did you replace the footpegs with something more dirt worthy, and if you did, what was that footpeg?
Thanks for watching! No, I used stock pegs. My GS build was more street focused and I just decided to save $ there. It was a budget build. If the suspension on your GS750 is anything like my 550, you will probably want upgrades there if you're going off the streets.
Hello great videos very thorough . i thought you planned on changing the rear wheel bearing when you changed the chain
Miguel Carides Thanks for your kind words. No, I didn't have plans to change the bearing with this job, unless they were showing signs of wear, which they weren't. Maybe next tire. We'll see. Wheel bearings go 50k+ miles pretty often in my experience.
Urban Monk TV ok thanks i have a 2012 dl1000 and you are my new best friend i really appreciate your videos
Which chain and sprockets did you purchase?
I've been using JT sprockets and this Bikemaster chain with excellent results. Getting 21-23k miles typically. Inexpensive combination.
@@UrbanMonkTV cool, thanks
What tyre pressure is for a Suzuki 650vstrom
I don't own a 650 or have a manual for one, but I would have to guess they're the same as my 1000. 36/36 frt/rear when solo with no gear and 41 in rear when riding 2up or with gear loaded.
I noticed you have some Minnesota license plates on your workbench. Are you from Minnesota?
Yes. I lived there for 21 years. Prior to that I lived in Fargo for 25 years, which is pretty much like growing up in MN. We spent all our time on MN lakes growing up.
Well, greetings from a lifelong (Mostly) Minnesotan. I enjoyed your video and was glad to see/hear you didn’t have any annoying music.
@@elderstatesman9932 I do use a little music on some of my videos, but I've developed a style where it isn't "in the way" of details and instruction. Now if only I could find a place to get some walleye around LA. 🙂
i tried to replace my front and rear sprocket as well, and i cannot get the same bolt in 11:10 out , its too tight and i even used a air impact gun but still it's not coming out, do u have any advice on that? is there any other ways i can try to get that bolt out so that i can replace my front sprocket
If you have a torch, you can put a little heat to it to loosen it up first, but breaker bar or impact wrench are the tools typically used. Warning, lots of guys will tell you an impact wrench is hard on the gears inside the transmission. When I use an impact wrench, I always have the transmission in neutral. The chain should provide the only resistance to turning. Hope that makes sense.
@@UrbanMonkTV sighhh... I think the bolt is stripped as the air impact gun is too much for it, have you ever experienced this before? I am worrying if the bolt is too tight that even the impact gun cannot get it out plus its stripped... Will this mean I cannot change the front sprocket ever?
@@benchp1869 I'd be very surprised if it is stripped. That shaft is hardened steel. We are talking about the sprocket nut, correct? You used the word bolt so I want to sure I am clear.
@@UrbanMonkTV apology, I should say the bolt in 11:03 which you simply use a wrench with your hands to loosen it
@@benchp1869 Ah! That's the speedometer rotor bolt. That has Loctite on it (medium) and is difficult to get out. If you stripped the head, you may have try a vise-grips. Try heating that shaft first. Will take a while for the heat to get into that steel shaft, which will be a heat sink. The heat should loosen that Loctite up. You'll probably only get one shot at it so make sure its good and hot (not red hot) before trying. Careful chain lube doesn't start on fire. May want to clean first. New bolt is part # 07130-0825B
New one will be noisy, you need a damped one like original. Got mine from Italy here in UK for my Kawasaki
Thanks for watching! I have since put another of these inexpensive JT sprockets on the bike and have been getting good mileage out of them. Can't say I've noticed any increase in noise but to be fair I wear earplugs when I ride.
Straight out of the midwest eh?
Uffda! Ya!
@@UrbanMonkTV da great white nort?
Doing the countershaft torque before removing the the rear wheel is a necessity. You've screwed up if you didn't follow the proper work flow
Thanks for watching. My father would say there's more than one way to skin a cat.
@22:10 ... I get that about 90% when I'm working on stuff. At some point I just see some blood arround the workplace and ..well, at this point I'm just slightly annoyed :)
Haha! Yes, hazardous working with tools and machines. Thanks again for watching!
I’m ignorant having never done this before, but I’m planning to this weekend. Can I grind just one pin and rotate the plate out of the way and slide the chain off, or do both need to be ground if I’m not reusing there chain.
You'll need to grind both as the pins are expanded tight in the plates. The plate won't rotate. Thanks for watching!
Urban Monk TV thanks so much for all the valuable information you’ve shared and for your response.
@@MrWhitmire You're very welcome.
What type of chain lube do you use on your chains?
Thank you for watching. I use this one... ua-cam.com/video/84ySVgRkiXU/v-deo.html
Did you keep the original number of teeth ? I am thinking of putting a 16 teeth one on my 2011.
I did stick with original gearing ratio. Works for my riding environment. Thanks for watching!
I was about to change my chain on my DL1000 with only 20K miles. Usually, that is about as much as I could expect even though the rear sprocket looked pretty good. How far back on the adjuster were you when you made the chainge (deliberate misspelling). I am still about 4.5 notches from the end of the adjuster. I decided to do a thorough cleaning and lube job instead. I hate replacing chains. I just did not want to get stranded.
The heavy duty counter sprocket is thicker in the middle because it has a very tough rubber cushion between the shaft opening and the teeth. It is supposed to smooth out shifting under acceleration. Seems unnecessary to me, as the rubber is hard as a rock. Did you see any difference in smoothness during shifting?
Thank you for watching! I honestly don't remember how far back on the adjusters I was. This was some time ago. I judge chain stretch by measuring 20 pitches. I've done a video on that ua-cam.com/video/KjLsUsgKfnc/v-deo.html. Thanks for the information on the rubber core in the front sprocket. I have not noticed any difference in shift smoothness since replacing the rubber sprocket with a cheap regular one.
My question is I want to put a 16t on the front but the bike is new can I just change the front only
Yes, you can change one without doing the other. You can also change without breaking links on the chain. Just loosen axle to give slack, remove sprocket nut, and slide sprocket off spindle. Replace with new sprocket. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV thank you so much
excellent video thx
Thank you for watching!
Amazing good video
Thank you for watching!
Was it a Suzuki GS750 1977 in the intro?
No, actually that's this 1978 GS550. It's the bike I'm working on. There's also some shots of the CB900 I had wrapped up restoring when I started this channel, and my V-Strom. Thanks for watching!
Just realized you hadn't watched my cafe racer build project. 1978 GS550.
35k miles!
Jesus, you really got your money's worth out of those chain and sprockets !
Yes, I agree. The particular chain I put on in this video as a replacement was not as long-lived unfortunately. I do a review on it. The chain after that was a Bikemaster and I'm getting really good life out of that. I'm planning to do a review video of that chain when I finally reach its wear limit. Thanks for watching!
Why wouldn’t you just put it in gear?
That is an excellent question. One that deserves its own video o explain. So I'm going to make that video. Until then, the short answer is potential transmission damage. Thanks for watching!
Would that not risk damaging the gears. I don't know but I would rather break a chain than a gear I guess.
Excellent video but a word of advice. Never use your hand as a hammer! Very bad and can cause severe harm. Not just a bit of blood. 🤔
Thank you for watching!
Good Video ... don't bash spanners & ratchets with your hands unless you like bruising your bones ! Bad habit
Thanks for watching! You're probably right. I should reconsider that habit. My wife thinks riding motorcycles is a bad habit.
@@UrbanMonkTV Haa , The up side is Motorcycles are great for your mental health !
Been banging my hands for 30 years now and still no pain and great dexterity. Keep wrenching.
Thank you. but what size and year is your bike, how many teeth....??? the devil is in the ...
Thanks for watching. My bike is a 2012 DL1000. 17/41 sprockets stock. 525 chain 112 links. I've recently been running a 43 tooth rear sprocket and like the get up and go off the line, but it has slowed me down on the freeways as I don't like running this engine over 5k for long.