Yes. Clean them out with a masonry wheel and then use the same width backer rod first, then apply our JS100. It's so important to not have all 3 sides adhered with our JS100. The backer rod protects the trough, while adhering the 2 sides of the joint. Which enables for contraction and expansion. Think of concrete as a giant sponge.
I have a new 1 day old polyurea/ polyaspartic coated floor and the flooring company refused to fill the contraction cracks, the floor is 3 years old and in great condition. I would like to fill the joints in with a white caulk to allow for easier cleaning what would you recommend?
Not a caulking like you're thinking. I would use a fast-set polyurea. We have one that comes in a tubeset. It's a 2 part system, and you need a special caulking gun to apply. However, you will also need to epoxy over as it's intended to go under the coating. You don't want to use a white epoxy either bc epoxies tend to yellow over time. I would use a pigmented urethane product if you must have white joints. Or just try to match what is there. Give us a call, one of our experts can try to help you. 1-877-288-1952
@@spartanepoxies3798 When fully cured, is the filler soft like typical silicone sealant, or is it harder? With silicone sealant, I see there are chances a sharp object could potentially punch a hole in the epoxy. Trying to see if this filler will prevent it.
Epoxy is too rigid. You need to put backer rod down into the joint and use a polyurea product so that it can be bonded to both sides of the joint and not the trough. Use our JS100 tubeset system.
Roughly how long does it take to get to the point where you "touch it and don't leave a fingerprint anymore"? Are we talking only a few minutes, a half hour, or come back later in the day?
Just wanted to share a hard learned lesson to anyone doing this. DO NOT under any circumstances allow the joint sealer to set completely before scraping with a razor scraper. You will end up spending days of work and breaking multiple scrapers chiseling it out with a hammer, inch by laborious inch.
What about V shaped expansion joints, same process and materials?
Yes. Clean them out with a masonry wheel and then use the same width backer rod first, then apply our JS100. It's so important to not have all 3 sides adhered with our JS100. The backer rod protects the trough, while adhering the 2 sides of the joint. Which enables for contraction and expansion. Think of concrete as a giant sponge.
What about edges? I seem to have a joint where my slab meets the wall that is filled with rotten wood.
Treat it the same as the joints in the video?
remove the wood, fill it with a cementious product, or a 100% epoxy filler. You can also use our joint filler, but that would be overkill.
I have a new 1 day old polyurea/ polyaspartic coated floor and the flooring company refused to fill the contraction cracks, the floor is 3 years old and in great condition. I would like to fill the joints in with a white caulk to allow for easier cleaning what would you recommend?
Not a caulking like you're thinking. I would use a fast-set polyurea. We have one that comes in a tubeset. It's a 2 part system, and you need a special caulking gun to apply. However, you will also need to epoxy over as it's intended to go under the coating. You don't want to use a white epoxy either bc epoxies tend to yellow over time. I would use a pigmented urethane product if you must have white joints. Or just try to match what is there. Give us a call, one of our experts can try to help you. 1-877-288-1952
When the concrete expands wont the coating bulge and create a high spot?
Thanks for the vid, do you have a link to purchase the filler?
www.spartanepoxies.com/crack-repair?product_id=67
@@spartanepoxies3798 When fully cured, is the filler soft like typical silicone sealant, or is it harder? With silicone sealant, I see there are chances a sharp object could potentially punch a hole in the epoxy. Trying to see if this filler will prevent it.
Can your crack repair filler be used on control joints instead of the Polyurea caulk? Thanks
I would use our fast set polyurea simply because crack filler isn't as flexible.
Epoxy is too rigid. You need to put backer rod down into the joint and use a polyurea product so that it can be bonded to both sides of the joint and not the trough. Use our JS100 tubeset system.
Roughly how long does it take to get to the point where you "touch it and don't leave a fingerprint anymore"? Are we talking only a few minutes, a half hour, or come back later in the day?
Just wanted to share a hard learned lesson to anyone doing this. DO NOT under any circumstances allow the joint sealer to set completely before scraping with a razor scraper. You will end up spending days of work and breaking multiple scrapers chiseling it out with a hammer, inch by laborious inch.
Yes, our JS100 is super strong. We sell this product to the military and the larger aerospace companies out there. I don't want to name-drop.
took like 25% of the tube to get to that "milky consistency"...
No, just a couple pumps. The tip needs to completely mix Part A and Part B.