Would it still crack since it’s a coating over the polyurea joint filler ? I have a similar situation with a metallic with metal keys in a floor and I’m thinking of just recutting the joints after the pour and filling with polyurea
Looks great. A few questions: 1) Would the base coat coverage / process change IF doing a 'Full Broadcast to Rejection' flake? 2) Would the top coat process / change? 3) Going all the way to the driveway apron vs stopping inside. a) How well will the coverage outside the door hold up? b) Likely a customer preference, in your opinion, is this a good look with doors closed down or do you typically recomend to stop inside? THANKS!
This intermediate coat was applied at approximately 180 ft.² per gallon, I would recommend 160 ft.² +/- per gallon if doing full flake broadcast. As far as the topcoat, the topcoat would be much thicker with the full broadcast because there are more valleys between the flakes. I would say the topcoat coverage would be 80 to 100 ft.² per gallon if doing full flake broadcast. It would be applied the same way though. As far as going under the door, that is a personal preference. Yes the materials will slightly fade over time in direct sunlight as does any material in direct sunlight, for the most part most of our customers like to run out to the front edge. If you do go to the front edge of the slab, make sure the floor you're putting inside the garage matches whatever color of the outside of your garage doors are. I hope that answers your questions, if not, you can email me direct
AAAAAAAAAAAmazing 🤩 JOB 🥇 I love ❤️ that Ketchup bottle ! Heeey ! About polish concrete I’m using RETRO PLAY I love it ! But I’m probably trying one of your products!
I appreciate you watching the video. The whole point of these videos is so viewers understand how floors should be installed. Ethics have been an issue all across the country. I originally created these videos so customers would see the difference between our floors and unethical competitors.
Thanks again for the great content. You guys inspired me to do my own 3-car 775 sqft garage. You make it look so easy. True artistry. I did full flake broadcast with pretty good results. I really struggled when it came to the clear top coat though. I did a polyaspartic by myself. I had 4.5 gallons and was worried about having enough. I mixed the first gallon and a half, and squeegee nearly half of the garage. I was excited that I would have enough. I back rolled and things were going well. I mixed the second gallon and a half, squeegeed and went to back roll. Problem, my only 18” roller is now pretty much a rolling pin! I raced around looking for other rollers I had and realized I wouldn’t have nearly enough time to properly back roll with the 6” rollers I had. I had to simply squeegee spread the remainder. The end result is great without focusing on the slight flaws in certain lights/viewing angles. I’ll keep watching and looking forward to doing it again sometime, with what I learned from my first “go round”. 👍
Why do you say your roller was like a rolling pin? Poly aspartic had cured on it? Thanks for mentioning this. I have extras because I always mess up a lot (haha) but I will keep them even closer by.
Your prep work is phenomenal!! EXACTLY what every contactor SHOULD be doing. Sadly, this kind of prep does not occur in the wild with all other contractors.
Incredible amount attended to detail in your floors. It’s nice to see that people still take pride in their job. Great skill and amazing looking floors. 👍🏻
Not ignorant at all. You can use backer rod. It is just one more thing to load on the trailer. Sand fits any size joint, its cheap and easily available.
I’m looking to epoxy my garage floor and I’m in a situation where my slab has 1/2” x 1/2” control joints. 31 to be exact. I’m trying to find a cheap solution to fill them evenly with the slab surface. Any idea if construction adhesive would bond well with the epoxy ?
Would you recommend the 2 part caulking style crack filler for control joints over the polyurea liquid 2 part epoxy? Or was it bc of depth and product went further and had longer pot life for filling those deep control joints? Thanks
Crack filler is solid epoxy and designed to "glue" cracks together again. Joints are designed to move, so you have to let them move if they try. That is why we use polyurea in the joints, to allow for movement if need be. The polyurea is a bit more rigid than the polyurethane joint fillers. It will support the coating better than a soft joint filler.
how expensive are those two part mixing cartridges? and looks like you used a bunch of them. i sell body shop supplies and those are between 25-40 dollars each in this industry. T Y
This floor was 960 sq ft. Two 500 sq ft kits would be perfect: concretefloorsolutions.com/product/500-sq-ft-solid-color-epoxy-floor-kit/ If you have any questions, let me know.
If it cracks once, it's going to keep re-cracking because there is thermal movement or settlement. Either of which would be impossible to stop. Yes, you can repair it, the repair will look worse than leaving the crack and it will happen again.
Make sure the concrete cures for 30 days prior to placing any coatings. I always have to recommend diamond grinding so you get a scratch on the surface and remove any possible laitance. That being said, our primer is an excellent penetrating primer designed to penetrate into the surface of the concrete. If you forgo the grinding, that is a risk you would be need to be willing to accept.
Adhesion is based on preparation. As long as you diamond grind the surface, don’t have oils present on the surface and use a primer, it will never peel. Follow those steps and it will never delaminate.
The intermediate coat in particular was very cold so we were going slow to give the material time to settle. Otherwise there is no difference, you just don't want to go so fast that it flies off the roller and hits the end wall. Just trying to eliminate splatters
Jason I’m curious what is that power source you use to power your hand grinder? Currently I run mine off my main generator but this setup seems more convenient. And quieter
I use a hilti DG-150 grinder, it is standard 110 power, you can plug it right into a regular outlet, there is a power inverter with the unit that actually converts it to 24 V power, that is the other red box you see.
@@david3312561 the red box the grinder plugs into is a power conditioner (hilti DPC 20). So you plug the box into 110, and the grinder into the box ( special plug on grinder). You cannot plug the grinder direct into an outlet ( different configuration). Hilti’s specs are vague on the actual power going through the box, I was always under the impression it converts from AC To DC, 24” but that is a guess.
@@david3312561 they are very expensive, but they are very well balanced, the shroud is very easy to adjust and a new skirt comes with each wheel. Well worth the money.
Very informative and easy to follow.
Great job!
Thank you for watching
Great work!!
great work man just saw a few of your videos. can you make a video after usage lets say a few months?
Here is a video of my own garage a couple years after it was installed.ua-cam.com/video/-cxw1wp8UEY/v-deo.html
great job, looks amazing. what would be the life expectancy with normal domestic use of this finish?
10-20 years, depending on the use. keep abrasives off the floor and it will last a long time.
Would it still crack since it’s a coating over the polyurea joint filler ? I have a similar situation with a metallic with metal keys in a floor and I’m thinking of just recutting the joints after the pour and filling with polyurea
Looks great. A few questions:
1) Would the base coat coverage / process change IF doing a 'Full Broadcast to Rejection' flake?
2) Would the top coat process / change? 3) Going all the way to the driveway apron vs stopping inside.
a) How well will the coverage outside the door hold up?
b) Likely a customer preference, in your opinion, is this a good look with doors closed down or do you typically recomend to stop inside? THANKS!
This intermediate coat was applied at approximately 180 ft.² per gallon, I would recommend 160 ft.² +/- per gallon if doing full flake broadcast.
As far as the topcoat, the topcoat would be much thicker with the full broadcast because there are more valleys between the flakes. I would say the topcoat coverage would be 80 to 100 ft.² per gallon if doing full flake broadcast. It would be applied the same way though.
As far as going under the door, that is a personal preference. Yes the materials will slightly fade over time in direct sunlight as does any material in direct sunlight, for the most part most of our customers like to run out to the front edge.
If you do go to the front edge of the slab, make sure the floor you're putting inside the garage matches whatever color of the outside of your garage doors are. I hope that answers your questions, if not, you can email me direct
You can’t mix the aluminum oxide into the top coat mix vs throwing it after the top coat is down?
You can, but when you squeegee it pushes the aluminum oxide around. I find throwing it on top to be much more consistent.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions ahhhh gotcha. What grit do you prefer? BTW y’all’s
videos are very good!
@@joseoviedo1644 either 36 or 46, Thank you for watching.
very nice
how do you address low spots in a garage floor where water puddles in the winter? Great channel! Thanks
You can fill low areas with 100% solids epoxy or an epoxy slurry mix.
Man!!! That floor looks awesome!!! Great job, as always!!!
AAAAAAAAAAAmazing 🤩 JOB 🥇
I love ❤️ that Ketchup bottle !
Heeey ! About polish concrete I’m using RETRO PLAY I love it ! But I’m probably trying one of your products!
Thank you for your support. Use coupon code (youtube) for 10% off.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions
Ok Nice 👍🏼
Looks good sans the flakes.
Do you need to sand between coats!
You do not have to as long as you apply each coat within 24 hours of the prior coat.
I enjoy your video but you need to franchise your business model an ethics so your more available to more people we need you in texas
I appreciate you watching the video. The whole point of these videos is so viewers understand how floors should be installed.
Ethics have been an issue all across the country. I originally created these videos so customers would see the difference between our floors and unethical competitors.
Do mine do mine!!!
Thanks again for the great content. You guys inspired me to do my own 3-car 775 sqft garage. You make it look so easy. True artistry. I did full flake broadcast with pretty good results. I really struggled when it came to the clear top coat though. I did a polyaspartic by myself. I had 4.5 gallons and was worried about having enough. I mixed the first gallon and a half, and squeegee nearly half of the garage. I was excited that I would have enough. I back rolled and things were going well. I mixed the second gallon and a half, squeegeed and went to back roll. Problem, my only 18” roller is now pretty much a rolling pin! I raced around looking for other rollers I had and realized I wouldn’t have nearly enough time to properly back roll with the 6” rollers I had. I had to simply squeegee spread the remainder. The end result is great without focusing on the slight flaws in certain lights/viewing angles. I’ll keep watching and looking forward to doing it again sometime, with what I learned from my first “go round”. 👍
Thank you for watching. Im glad we inspired you. You definitely can't go slow with the polyaspartic.
Why do you say your roller was like a rolling pin? Poly aspartic had cured on it? Thanks for mentioning this. I have extras because I always mess up a lot (haha) but I will keep them even closer by.
@@jeffa847 That’s right. It had hardened that quickly.
Your prep work is phenomenal!! EXACTLY what every contactor SHOULD be doing. Sadly, this kind of prep does not occur in the wild with all other contractors.
Incredible amount attended to detail in your floors. It’s nice to see that people still take pride in their job. Great skill and amazing looking floors. 👍🏻
Thank you for watching, and thank you for the great compliments.
What was the joint filler that you used?
Supernice work, its a pleasure to see pros doing great job. Well done :)
Ps if your not you would be a billionaire
Nice work; I really like your attetion to detail and the explanations that come with them.
thank you for watching
This might sound ignorant, but is there any reason you chose sand over a backer rod? Could a backer rod accomplish the same task?
Not ignorant at all. You can use backer rod. It is just one more thing to load on the trailer. Sand fits any size joint, its cheap and easily available.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions That makes perfect sense, thanks so much for the reply!
I’m looking to epoxy my garage floor and I’m in a situation where my slab has 1/2” x 1/2” control joints. 31 to be exact.
I’m trying to find a cheap solution to fill them evenly with the slab surface.
Any idea if construction adhesive would bond well with the epoxy ?
Great Videos you guys always put up. I have a question though how come after you guys put down the Flakes you can still see some of the joint lines?
I usually put a 1/4 inch backer rod on there then poly over it and scrape the joints. I like yalls work man. 🦾
Stay safe
Looks like my phone was listening to me again today
Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙏
800 sq ft should accept 100 ibs of flake for a full broadcast.
Would you recommend the 2 part caulking style crack filler for control joints over the polyurea liquid 2 part epoxy? Or was it bc of depth and product went further and had longer pot life for filling those deep control joints? Thanks
Crack filler is solid epoxy and designed to "glue" cracks together again.
Joints are designed to move, so you have to let them move if they try. That is why we use polyurea in the joints, to allow for movement if need be. The polyurea is a bit more rigid than the polyurethane joint fillers. It will support the coating better than a soft joint filler.
how expensive are those two part mixing cartridges? and looks like you used a bunch of them. i sell body shop supplies and those are between 25-40 dollars each in this industry. T Y
+/- $60 if you buy 6 at a time
Hello, what was the demensions of the floor? My garage is 38x26. I have looked at your store and your products are extensive!
This floor was 960 sq ft.
Two 500 sq ft kits would be perfect:
concretefloorsolutions.com/product/500-sq-ft-solid-color-epoxy-floor-kit/
If you have any questions, let me know.
Is it possible to repair an epoxy floor that cracks/re-cracks but not along an expansion joint over time?
If it cracks once, it's going to keep re-cracking because there is thermal movement or settlement. Either of which would be impossible to stop. Yes, you can repair it, the repair will look worse than leaving the crack and it will happen again.
Do you recommend grinding a freshly poured concrete floor no sealer used?
Make sure the concrete cures for 30 days prior to placing any coatings. I always have to recommend diamond grinding so you get a scratch on the surface and remove any possible laitance.
That being said, our primer is an excellent penetrating primer designed to penetrate into the surface of the concrete.
If you forgo the grinding, that is a risk you would be need to be willing to accept.
What’s your adhesion warranty?
Adhesion is based on preparation. As long as you diamond grind the surface, don’t have oils present on the surface and use a primer, it will never peel. Follow those steps and it will never delaminate.
your website doesn't work
It should be back up Monday afternoon, Thank you
Hey Man great video! Iv noticed my backroll guy bankrolling with a lot more speed that your guy is doing. what are downsides to bankrolling faster?
The intermediate coat in particular was very cold so we were going slow to give the material time to settle. Otherwise there is no difference, you just don't want to go so fast that it flies off the roller and hits the end wall.
Just trying to eliminate splatters
Thank you for watching
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions great! is that going to be the same case when bankrolling the top coat?
You can roll faster if you want, we just like to take our time and pay attention to detail.
Jason I’m curious what is that power source you use to power your hand grinder? Currently I run mine off my main generator but this setup seems more convenient. And quieter
I use a hilti DG-150 grinder, it is standard 110 power, you can plug it right into a regular outlet, there is a power inverter with the unit that actually converts it to 24 V power, that is the other red box you see.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Why do you need to invert from 110 to 24V?
@@david3312561 the red box the grinder plugs into is a power conditioner (hilti DPC 20). So you plug the box into 110, and the grinder into the box ( special plug on grinder). You cannot plug the grinder direct into an outlet ( different configuration). Hilti’s specs are vague on the actual power going through the box, I was always under the impression it converts from AC To DC, 24” but that is a guess.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions i see. I just looked up that hand grinder - man I thought my metabo was nice but that thing is awesome
@@david3312561 they are very expensive, but they are very well balanced, the shroud is very easy to adjust and a new skirt comes with each wheel. Well worth the money.