How did you get the fuel map correct? I'm planning to compare torque graphs for the tt600 and the gs550 and then adjust the map accordingly and then if I can get it running well enough I can take it to a dyno and get a proper fueling analysis. My hope is to be able to just use the stock tt600 ecu but if I can't get it to work then it will have to be aftermarket.
@@Blackthumbditch I used tunerstudio for tuning. I basically copied the stock advance curve for timing, and tunerstudio gives you a rough fuel map based on injector size, # of injectors and cylinders. That was good enough to get the bike started, then I did short rides close to home while recording a data log and used that info to change the fuel map. Once it was within about 10% of target afr everywhere I started using the autotune function. This got it as close as a street tune can and for further refinement you can go to a dyno.
@@Blackthumbditch I haven't looked to see which specific ecu you are using, but you might check and see if it's compatible with tune ecu. I used it to change the tune on the tiger 800xc I used to have. You can make pretty big changes with it to get closer to what you need. It connects through the obd2 port, you can either use a bluetooth one or one that connects to a computer. I would recommend the computer one just for stability of connection while uploading a tune.
Brooo!!! Im so happy you've released a new episode 1. Congrats on the engagement. 2. Love your shirt 3. I love this king of work your doing, Keep doing it. Its coming very nicely together. Looking forward to the next episode
I remember there have been VWs (1978-1986) in California fitted with a very simple port injection (one in four). The bus i drove there was more powerful and saved much more gas compared to carb versions in Germany.
Kind of ironic, I quite liked early gs550 slide carbs as they were quite robust and tunable. They drop onto cb550's as the cylinder spacing is the same and the CB carbs were terrible as all the linkages were exposed and wore quickly whereas the GS ones were all sealed inside the carb bodies.
I had to move my throttle cable mount between 2 and 3 so it routed neatly under the tank. Put the tps on the end. You might find your engine temp sensor is better put in the head where it will give a better indication of the running part of the motor. Do you need an idle air motor? Don't have to worry about changing engine loads like AC, so perhaps just a "choke" knib to cam the throttle stop?
Thanks for the suggestions. I still haven't quite decided on the cable routing yet. Same with the temp sensor. I was planning to tap into the oil flow but it does make sense to get head temp instead. I'm keeping the iacv because the gs motors are very cold blooded and it makes the warm up cycle easier, if it works.
@@Blackthumbditch. Very interesting, I look forward to seeing how it turns out, might be a good upgrade for my bike. Problem I had with my bike was the crank sensor, never worked reliably when starting. I changed to a hall effect sensor and the problem went away. Are you using a map sensor or a tps? I use a tps but I think it might be a mistake. My bike runs 95% perfect, but you know I'm always chasing the 5%. Oh my bike is a gpz 1100 motor bored to 1400. In a z650, dressed up like a triumph bonneville - well might as well be completely mad!
You might be better to leave your temp sensor where it is if your fi system is for a watercooled engine. My head temp sensor went off the scale for my fi system. Luckily they recoded the system as an update for me (and others with air cooled engines DTA).
looking great having the fuel rail on top should be better for fuel delivery to the engine also look at some Velocity stacks to help with airflow GSXR 750 RAMAIR sock filters fit its a set up I have on my Yamaha FZS600 fAZER . Insted of modifying the right hand side of the engine for the crank sencer would not the left have been better and used the TT600 set up ? from my one experience back in85 the GS650 BLOCK goes near strait on 😎😎
Thanks bud. I will look into the ram air sock. I had originally considered 3d printing some velocity stacks to fit inside the pod filters. Good idea on the 650 top end. I will keep an eye out.
A couple of comments.. Firstly, it would be preferable to angle the runner (and obviously the TB's) up a little (around 10 to 15 degrees 'typically') to 'hit' the back of the valve. It's worth good power. Second, when doing the above, it's nicer to have the injector UNDER the runner as it aids fuel atomization as it cuts through the airflow. It also helps with part-throttle response as the throttle blades open. Thirdly, tuning with ITB's and MAP is HARD. You're gonna want to look at Alpha-N tuning (ie. throttle postion Vs RPM). A good video to explain this is here: ua-cam.com/video/IbDBsq8W14U/v-deo.html Otherwise.. loving the build.
Thanks for the suggestions. Nothing is cast in stone yet and it might all change before I get the bike running. I am expecting a lot of trial and error with the tuning but if I can just get it running I will take it to a dyno and get a proper fuelling analysis.
Engine on the table, she must be ok 🤣
Very interesting to watch thanks for taking the time to share :)
I fuel injected my XS650, used a microsquirt ecu and early 2ks gsxr600 throttle bodies, they fir the bs34 carb boots perfect.
How did you get the fuel map correct? I'm planning to compare torque graphs for the tt600 and the gs550 and then adjust the map accordingly and then if I can get it running well enough I can take it to a dyno and get a proper fueling analysis. My hope is to be able to just use the stock tt600 ecu but if I can't get it to work then it will have to be aftermarket.
@@Blackthumbditch I used tunerstudio for tuning. I basically copied the stock advance curve for timing, and tunerstudio gives you a rough fuel map based on injector size, # of injectors and cylinders. That was good enough to get the bike started, then I did short rides close to home while recording a data log and used that info to change the fuel map. Once it was within about 10% of target afr everywhere I started using the autotune function. This got it as close as a street tune can and for further refinement you can go to a dyno.
That makes sense. Unfortunately the triumph ecu is an open loop system so it will just have to be trial and error.
@@Blackthumbditch I haven't looked to see which specific ecu you are using, but you might check and see if it's compatible with tune ecu. I used it to change the tune on the tiger 800xc I used to have. You can make pretty big changes with it to get closer to what you need. It connects through the obd2 port, you can either use a bluetooth one or one that connects to a computer. I would recommend the computer one just for stability of connection while uploading a tune.
What torque improvement is there over carbs?
Brooo!!! Im so happy you've released a new episode
1. Congrats on the engagement.
2. Love your shirt
3. I love this king of work your doing, Keep doing it. Its coming very nicely together. Looking forward to the next episode
Thanks a lot pal
That's looking rather neat that! Looking forward to seeing it all come together :)
Congratulations on the engagement too!
Thanks very much
I remember there have been VWs (1978-1986) in California fitted with a very simple port injection (one in four). The bus i drove there was more powerful and saved much more gas compared to carb versions in Germany.
Lovely work 👍🏻
Thanks a lot pal
Awesome project, sat through all the episodes in one go!
I love the videos and I hope the cats keep making appearances.
Hahaha. I can't stop them
Kind of ironic, I quite liked early gs550 slide carbs as they were quite robust and tunable.
They drop onto cb550's as the cylinder spacing is the same and the CB carbs were terrible as all the linkages were exposed and wore quickly whereas the GS ones were all sealed inside the carb bodies.
I hear you but this bike is an experiment :)
My gs 550 had cv carbs! Think it was a septic import, as bought it off a yank out of heyford. Fantastic mill. Just the bike needed a diet!😊
I love it, great work! Also, that shirt is amazing. 🤣
Thanks bud
Nice work. Looks factory. ❤
Thanks pal
I had to move my throttle cable mount between 2 and 3 so it routed neatly under the tank. Put the tps on the end.
You might find your engine temp sensor is better put in the head where it will give a better indication of the running part of the motor.
Do you need an idle air motor? Don't have to worry about changing engine loads like AC, so perhaps just a "choke" knib to cam the throttle stop?
Thanks for the suggestions. I still haven't quite decided on the cable routing yet. Same with the temp sensor. I was planning to tap into the oil flow but it does make sense to get head temp instead. I'm keeping the iacv because the gs motors are very cold blooded and it makes the warm up cycle easier, if it works.
@@Blackthumbditch. Very interesting, I look forward to seeing how it turns out, might be a good upgrade for my bike. Problem I had with my bike was the crank sensor, never worked reliably when starting. I changed to a hall effect sensor and the problem went away.
Are you using a map sensor or a tps? I use a tps but I think it might be a mistake. My bike runs 95% perfect, but you know I'm always chasing the 5%. Oh my bike is a gpz 1100 motor bored to 1400. In a z650, dressed up like a triumph bonneville - well might as well be completely mad!
You might be better to leave your temp sensor where it is if your fi system is for a watercooled engine. My head temp sensor went off the scale for my fi system. Luckily they recoded the system as an update for me (and others with air cooled engines DTA).
Its great that you haven't given up on this project and once you get it done and all working have you considered making the parts for sale?
That never occurred to me. Not a bad idea.
Nice work. Following!
Think you should have a look for some narrow hose clamps.
It's on my todo list but the list is long :)
looking great having the fuel rail on top should be better for fuel delivery to the engine also look at some Velocity stacks to help with airflow GSXR 750 RAMAIR sock filters fit its a set up I have on my Yamaha FZS600 fAZER . Insted of modifying the right hand side of the engine for the crank sencer would not the left have been better and used the TT600 set up ? from my one experience back in85 the GS650 BLOCK goes near strait on 😎😎
Thanks bud. I will look into the ram air sock. I had originally considered 3d printing some velocity stacks to fit inside the pod filters. Good idea on the 650 top end. I will keep an eye out.
New to your channel, what HP gain do you think
That’s exactly the same dining table and chairs I’ve got….
Congratulations 🎊
Thank you!!
Does the ecu your planning on running have an idle stepper motor to control the idle air bypass and thus idle speed of the engine?
Yes. It's a triumph tt600 ecu and iacv.
A couple of comments..
Firstly, it would be preferable to angle the runner (and obviously the TB's) up a little (around 10 to 15 degrees 'typically') to 'hit' the back of the valve. It's worth good power.
Second, when doing the above, it's nicer to have the injector UNDER the runner as it aids fuel atomization as it cuts through the airflow. It also helps with part-throttle response as the throttle blades open.
Thirdly, tuning with ITB's and MAP is HARD. You're gonna want to look at Alpha-N tuning (ie. throttle postion Vs RPM). A good video to explain this is here: ua-cam.com/video/IbDBsq8W14U/v-deo.html
Otherwise.. loving the build.
Thanks for the suggestions. Nothing is cast in stone yet and it might all change before I get the bike running. I am expecting a lot of trial and error with the tuning but if I can just get it running I will take it to a dyno and get a proper fuelling analysis.
For various reasons, I think an airbox would be the better option
it's cool what your doing but i like carbs i take cair of them and i like a old school stock bike i can't be alone on this lol
My gs750 is stock and I like it that way. This bike is an experiment
Nice work. Looks factory. ❤