Thanks man. It's not listed as compatible so I can only assume there'd be fitment issues. I'm sure you could fabricate your way through it but not "out of the box".
You need to launch at a higher RPM, not just off idle. You want to launch closer to the torque peak in your powerband. Try launching around 3k - 4k next time. Keep the revs around 3k, then feather the clutch when you launch. Don’t just dump it. You will be in the 12s with that launch. You also need to shift gears faster. You shifts should be 2x as fast as what they are in this video. DC headers on the 350z flow well and give good midrange power. ISR stuff is just rebranded generic knockoff parts. They aren’t up to par of motordyne or tomei, etc. Tomei will give you better top end than DC. Work on launching at a higher rpm, shift faster, and maybe even lower your rear tire pressure to 30psi for more grip. Not sure of your clutch and flywheel setup, but the JWT clutch and lightweight flywheel will give you improved response and faster revs. Thank you for the videos and the info. Keep up the good work and best of luck with your channel.
The best thing about the Quaife diff is that you don't notice anything. It just works perfectly. No noises, no quirks... it just hooks up whenever you need it to. Highly recommended
I would revisit your headers and exhaust choices. Not sure on 350z platform but on the prelude the dc headers were known to flow about same as stock. I’m thinking I’ll go with isr long tubes with stillen exhaust on my attempt. My goal is to push above 280 whp with bolt ons before going with the same super charger kit.
Yeah I regret not just buying the Tomeis at the time. Thought I was being cost effective. I'm considering the ISRs for the final build as well. The TDX2 will flow just fine.
Thanks man. It's a lot of fun to drive. I was actually expecting a lot more chop from the cams but they didn't sound that different to the stockers. The SC doesn't change the tone much at idle but by virtue of pushing a lot more air through it's definitely louder on WOT.
@@joaquinmalagon9343 I've got DC Sports headers and HFCs- No doubt they make a difference. I think a lot of guys run test pipes in their Zs, which only amplifies the infamous VQ trumpet. I prefer to avoid that if possible. I used to run the ART pipes with the Motordyne CBE but it was too much. I think turbo VQs sound best generally because of how muffled they are. That said I do like the sound of my setup.
@@irresponzible Ahhhh yes that makes more sense! Would love to see more content of you driving around with cold start and everything and taking us through how you feel the car is different with the kit!
What engine oil do you use with the kit? I saw in the manual that it says to use a viscosity higher than 40 so I was curious to know what kind of oil you use.
I've been using 5w-40 up until just a couple of days ago when I switched to 10w-50. It's summer here now but I'll probably stick to this weight. I did notice a lot of carbon in the old oil (which would be somewhat attributed to all the rich mixtures while tuning cold start etc), but also a lot of crank case pressure so I assume excess blow by. Maybe the thicker oil will help.
@@mattman20132 I'm fairly agnostic (tried a few) but being Australian I typically end up using Penrite because I've never heard a good reason not to. You can go wrong with any of your big names Mobil/Nulon/Amsoil etc.
Any feedback as to how the powerband has changed after the kit? Did you see substantial increase across the RPM or was it biased? Interested to hear how the low end has changed. Thanks!
Better late than never?? Sorry mate. I'll have to see if I can try and overlay a comparison of my NA vs SC readouts but they're on two different dynos and one is by RPM and the other by road speed .. I can tell you on the butt dyno it's fairly similar up to around 2500-3000rpm but after that it's completely different. Absolutely takes off...
No worries! Looking forward to your content brother! My question is from 2500-3000rpm down to 1000rpm or so does the power taper down, in other words since the power is linear does it hit 2500 rpm and then hit you (like a turbo??) or is it more linear? Trying to imagine what it’d be like to cruise at 2000rpm hit the gas a little and wonder how that power comes on
It's a bit fiddly but can be done while still bolted up to the bracket. I had to bend an allen key at the right length to do it so each to their own. You might be able to get a little more room to maneuver if you unbolt the whole unit from the bracket first, but you'll still have the silicone couplers attached.
Haha, fair. I've been in there a couple of times with degreaser and a pressure washer in the past few years, but it's mainly due to before I installed the HKS kit, I had stripped the engine (in bay) down to block and heads to address a few oil leaks. Any part that came off was cleaned thoroughly and in the case of the plenum and timing cover, painted. While I had room I probably wiped a few surfaces down too. Combine that with re-sleeving most of the harnesses and then adding a bunch of new stuff with the kit, that's where I landed. The exterior's probably the worst part of the car (not bad) but I'll address it eventually.
Hey, so the community consensus seems to be 11:1. These days you can get away with high CR with boost, especially if you've got E85 nearby, but not necessary. I've got 12:1 pistons on order so it'll be interesting to see how it all behaves. I won't be the first though, and I'm on E85 so I'll be fine.
Sure do. To install the kit you ever so slightly need to bend one of the metal pipes that is connected to the compressor, but it's covered in the instructions. Pry bar or a thick screw driver is enough to move it to the new location.
@irresponzible I could be mistaken but there are as small as 85mm pullies for these on the market from z1. And I don't think it's for the v1 kit. Are you sure there was no belt slip? Cause vortex kits make boost till redline. Online it's just hard to find like rpm and psi info.
@@timholubowitch9097 There sure are BUT the 8555 has a max advised 100,000rpm. The 100mm pulley already hits that at about 6500rpm. So even by keeping the engine rpm at it's normal redline of 6800rpm, you're already going over. That said, I've ordered a 95mm pulley to go along with the build because YOLO. That will mean @6800rpm engine, I would hit 110,000rpm on the SC. Not great but I don't plan on spending a lot of time there. Also if you want to check the 8555 efficiency info, check this page www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/supercharger/universal_kit/specs.html
@@timholubowitch9097also, yeah they don't have a lot of info about RPM/boost. They told me a while back that the 100mm pulley should be 12-15psi but I haven't cracked 13psi. Possibly back pressure or possibly it's not capable of hitting 15. We'll know for sure when I build as I'm also installing LTH...
@@fernandohood5542 yep, getting the power down in 1st/2nd will get it into the 12s. Still got the 3.9 installed, but might consider swapping back to the 3.6 later. I'll see how it drives for a while after the engine is built first.
Depends what you mean by "serious power"? I'm not aiming for 700hp. HKS claim up to 15psi with the 100mm pulley, which is plenty to play with. I'm also investigating whether 90/95mm pulleys would still be under the 100k rpm limit for the blower. Combine that with 12:1 CR and the bigger cams I already have installed, and it will be serious enough for me.
is it possible to run that high of compression ratio with higher boost? I'm not an expert but I think you may run into detonation issues. Is E85 enough to prevent detonation? @@irresponzible
@@expofcam Knock detection and ignition control are much better these days, but it depends how much boost you want to run through it. Guys driving 370Zs (VHR) are already at 11:1 and they happily boost them on 93. It can be done, it just decreases your safety margin so you want a good tuner to ensure it's perfect. Another guy I know has been running 40psi with 11:1 CR on a DE for years. Beats the hell out of it at the drag strip. Built of course and he's running racing gas, but shows the range you can get away with.
@@irresponzible literally as I finished typing and sending the comment is when I heard you say all blame was on you and not the car. Good luck man! BTW from my experience after you pop the clutch you want to get full traction before shifting to second just feather the throttle and keep it floating above your VVT engagement RPM’s until you feel the tires bite
@@WadesR20vvl ha, all good man. Yeah there's a few things that came to mind after I left the strip that I couldn't think of in the moment. Very keen to try a few methods. What's your view on 2nd gear launches? Thanks for the advice.
@@irresponzible 2nd gear launch is gonna be harder on the transmission but easier on the axles but seeing would probably be faster till you get used to hooking second everytime then work on first once second is dialed
@@Agilepickleunite definitely a lot more practice required. I do have launch control in the G4X so I might have a play around with that in future. Mostly just finding the time now :(
This is my dream build !!! One day !!
Hey man sick build. I was looking into purchasing this kit for my g35? Do you know if it has the same compatibility?
Thanks man. It's not listed as compatible so I can only assume there'd be fitment issues. I'm sure you could fabricate your way through it but not "out of the box".
You need to launch at a higher RPM, not just off idle. You want to launch closer to the torque peak in your powerband. Try launching around 3k - 4k next time. Keep the revs around 3k, then feather the clutch when you launch. Don’t just dump it. You will be in the 12s with that launch.
You also need to shift gears faster. You shifts should be 2x as fast as what they are in this video.
DC headers on the 350z flow well and give good midrange power. ISR stuff is just rebranded generic knockoff parts. They aren’t up to par of motordyne or tomei, etc. Tomei will give you better top end than DC.
Work on launching at a higher rpm, shift faster, and maybe even lower your rear tire pressure to 30psi for more grip.
Not sure of your clutch and flywheel setup, but the JWT clutch and lightweight flywheel will give you improved response and faster revs.
Thank you for the videos and the info. Keep up the good work and best of luck with your channel.
It truly sounds insane.
You are correct on the final drive. May I ask how is your experience with your quaife diff?
The best thing about the Quaife diff is that you don't notice anything. It just works perfectly. No noises, no quirks... it just hooks up whenever you need it to. Highly recommended
I would revisit your headers and exhaust choices. Not sure on 350z platform but on the prelude the dc headers were known to flow about same as stock.
I’m thinking I’ll go with isr long tubes with stillen exhaust on my attempt. My goal is to push above 280 whp with bolt ons before going with the same super charger kit.
Yeah I regret not just buying the Tomeis at the time. Thought I was being cost effective.
I'm considering the ISRs for the final build as well. The TDX2 will flow just fine.
Great work. Getting it done with what you have
This thing is an absolute monster!!! I love your build man! Did your cams or the SC change the tone of the motordyne CBE more?
Thanks man. It's a lot of fun to drive.
I was actually expecting a lot more chop from the cams but they didn't sound that different to the stockers. The SC doesn't change the tone much at idle but by virtue of pushing a lot more air through it's definitely louder on WOT.
@@irresponzibleThanks for the response! I noticed that your exhaust sounds very different from other clips I've heard, any idea for this?
@@joaquinmalagon9343 I've got DC Sports headers and HFCs- No doubt they make a difference. I think a lot of guys run test pipes in their Zs, which only amplifies the infamous VQ trumpet. I prefer to avoid that if possible.
I used to run the ART pipes with the Motordyne CBE but it was too much.
I think turbo VQs sound best generally because of how muffled they are. That said I do like the sound of my setup.
@@irresponzible Ahhhh yes that makes more sense! Would love to see more content of you driving around with cold start and everything and taking us through how you feel the car is different with the kit!
Sorry another quick question, did you feel any loss of throttle response or "N/A feel" with this kit?
What engine oil do you use with the kit? I saw in the manual that it says to use a viscosity higher than 40 so I was curious to know what kind of oil you use.
I've been using 5w-40 up until just a couple of days ago when I switched to 10w-50. It's summer here now but I'll probably stick to this weight. I did notice a lot of carbon in the old oil (which would be somewhat attributed to all the rich mixtures while tuning cold start etc), but also a lot of crank case pressure so I assume excess blow by. Maybe the thicker oil will help.
@@irresponzible awesome man, thanks for the reply. Is there a brand/type you generally like to use?
@@mattman20132 I'm fairly agnostic (tried a few) but being Australian I typically end up using Penrite because I've never heard a good reason not to.
You can go wrong with any of your big names Mobil/Nulon/Amsoil etc.
Any feedback as to how the powerband has changed after the kit? Did you see substantial increase across the RPM or was it biased? Interested to hear how the low end has changed. Thanks!
Better late than never?? Sorry mate.
I'll have to see if I can try and overlay a comparison of my NA vs SC readouts but they're on two different dynos and one is by RPM and the other by road speed ..
I can tell you on the butt dyno it's fairly similar up to around 2500-3000rpm but after that it's completely different. Absolutely takes off...
No worries! Looking forward to your content brother! My question is from 2500-3000rpm down to 1000rpm or so does the power taper down, in other words since the power is linear does it hit 2500 rpm and then hit you (like a turbo??) or is it more linear? Trying to imagine what it’d be like to cruise at 2000rpm hit the gas a little and wonder how that power comes on
How hard was it to access the restrictor plate? I have the same kit and wanted to hit higher hp numbers but didn’t want to break the bank.
It's a bit fiddly but can be done while still bolted up to the bracket. I had to bend an allen key at the right length to do it so each to their own.
You might be able to get a little more room to maneuver if you unbolt the whole unit from the bracket first, but you'll still have the silicone couplers attached.
@@zacr333 sorry mate, missed this one. ID1050X injectors. Plenty of headroom, even with E85
Great work keep them coming! So 391whp? On pump gas?
Thanks man. E85, BUT there's plenty of guys in the States getting similar results on 91. Call it a safety blanket, especially on those hot track days.
how on planet earth is your bay that clean.......
Haha, fair. I've been in there a couple of times with degreaser and a pressure washer in the past few years, but it's mainly due to before I installed the HKS kit, I had stripped the engine (in bay) down to block and heads to address a few oil leaks. Any part that came off was cleaned thoroughly and in the case of the plenum and timing cover, painted. While I had room I probably wiped a few surfaces down too. Combine that with re-sleeving most of the harnesses and then adding a bunch of new stuff with the kit, that's where I landed.
The exterior's probably the worst part of the car (not bad) but I'll address it eventually.
Hi mate,what pistons compression ratio do u recommend for this kit?
Hey, so the community consensus seems to be 11:1. These days you can get away with high CR with boost, especially if you've got E85 nearby, but not necessary.
I've got 12:1 pistons on order so it'll be interesting to see how it all behaves. I won't be the first though, and I'm on E85 so I'll be fine.
@irresponzible So it should be fine to use oem compression ratio without e85 right? I'm planning to push around 500bhp
@@maku564 absolutely. Just find a good tuner that can keep an eye on knock!
@irresponzible also, is there any way to contact u beside youtube if I would have some more questions?
@@maku564 Yep I use the same handle for insta
Hey I have a question if you don’t mind. Do you still have your air conditioning?
Sure do. To install the kit you ever so slightly need to bend one of the metal pipes that is connected to the compressor, but it's covered in the instructions. Pry bar or a thick screw driver is enough to move it to the new location.
@@irresponzible thank you 🙏🏾
Why wasnt peak boost at rev limiter? Arent these types of chargers supposed to keep climbing with revs.
Yes, but it's not unlimited. There's an efficiency range, like turbos, where it will start to drop off
@irresponzible I could be mistaken but there are as small as 85mm pullies for these on the market from z1. And I don't think it's for the v1 kit. Are you sure there was no belt slip? Cause vortex kits make boost till redline. Online it's just hard to find like rpm and psi info.
@@timholubowitch9097 There sure are BUT the 8555 has a max advised 100,000rpm. The 100mm pulley already hits that at about 6500rpm. So even by keeping the engine rpm at it's normal redline of 6800rpm, you're already going over.
That said, I've ordered a 95mm pulley to go along with the build because YOLO. That will mean @6800rpm engine, I would hit 110,000rpm on the SC. Not great but I don't plan on spending a lot of time there.
Also if you want to check the 8555 efficiency info, check this page www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/supercharger/universal_kit/specs.html
@@timholubowitch9097also, yeah they don't have a lot of info about RPM/boost. They told me a while back that the 100mm pulley should be 12-15psi but I haven't cracked 13psi.
Possibly back pressure or possibly it's not capable of hitting 15. We'll know for sure when I build as I'm also installing LTH...
@@irresponzible there has to be a way to get more jam out of these.
What was the time?
Jump ahead to 11:30 on the video! Slower than the car is capable of, that's for sure.
60ft time not good.
@@fernandohood5542 lol, nope
@@irresponzible Shave 0.40 off that (tyres, gearing) and your into the 12s. Do you still have the 3.9 diff? I take that off you.
@@fernandohood5542 yep, getting the power down in 1st/2nd will get it into the 12s.
Still got the 3.9 installed, but might consider swapping back to the 3.6 later. I'll see how it drives for a while after the engine is built first.
You’re going to struggle making any serious power with that blower
Depends what you mean by "serious power"? I'm not aiming for 700hp.
HKS claim up to 15psi with the 100mm pulley, which is plenty to play with.
I'm also investigating whether 90/95mm pulleys would still be under the 100k rpm limit for the blower.
Combine that with 12:1 CR and the bigger cams I already have installed, and it will be serious enough for me.
is it possible to run that high of compression ratio with higher boost? I'm not an expert but I think you may run into detonation issues. Is E85 enough to prevent detonation? @@irresponzible
@@expofcam sure is. Plenty of guys in the boosted VQ community running high CRs. On E85 and a good tune (by a good tuner) you'll be safe
i'd like to stay away from ethanol mix when i do my build, would a reduced compression ratio be the best way?@@irresponzible
@@expofcam Knock detection and ignition control are much better these days, but it depends how much boost you want to run through it. Guys driving 370Zs (VHR) are already at 11:1 and they happily boost them on 93. It can be done, it just decreases your safety margin so you want a good tuner to ensure it's perfect.
Another guy I know has been running 40psi with 11:1 CR on a DE for years. Beats the hell out of it at the drag strip. Built of course and he's running racing gas, but shows the range you can get away with.
Bro work on the launch your leaving tons of time on the table
That's the plan. It was only my first time out and I mentioned in the video the time is definitely my fault, not the car
@@irresponzible literally as I finished typing and sending the comment is when I heard you say all blame was on you and not the car. Good luck man! BTW from my experience after you pop the clutch you want to get full traction before shifting to second just feather the throttle and keep it floating above your VVT engagement RPM’s until you feel the tires bite
@@WadesR20vvl ha, all good man. Yeah there's a few things that came to mind after I left the strip that I couldn't think of in the moment. Very keen to try a few methods.
What's your view on 2nd gear launches? Thanks for the advice.
@@irresponzible 2nd gear launch is gonna be harder on the transmission but easier on the axles but seeing would probably be faster till you get used to hooking second everytime then work on first once second is dialed
@@Agilepickleunite definitely a lot more practice required. I do have launch control in the G4X so I might have a play around with that in future. Mostly just finding the time now :(