@@DevilAndSons I originally planned to but then chickened out. After watching this video it's given me a bit of confidence! I've got a blonde strat with a mint pickguard and I know it's look good with some aging
Cool. Good luck. If you're on social media and put any pictures up please do mention @devilandsons in the comments, I'm always keen to see what other people are making.
Very nicely done! I’ve reliced a few of my builds in the last eight years and I’ve learned something new on each build, reliced or not. The stain at the near end of the process was the icing on the cake for sure and my most valuable take away from this vid! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching. I hope the stain process works for you, I think it really does help give the checking cracks the look of them being old. Have you got a plan for your next guitar yet?
@@DevilAndSons. There are always a few ideas bubbling up. Been pretty busy though lately. I have a Wilkinson Tele kit (alder body/rosewood fretboard) from Stewmac that I’ve been sitting on for almost a year without having approached the assembly yet. I’m not even sure if I’ll use both pickups in the kit or do an Esquire type of thing. Maybe even hide a neck pickup under the pickguard. Or maybe be even more slick and sneak a neck AND middle pickup under the pickguard! Olympic White? Vintage/Antique White? White Blonde? Frost White? Lake Placid Blue? Sherwood Green? Shoreline Gold? To relic or not to relic??? Decisions, decisions…
@martinthompson2425 cool, I love a hidden pickup. I have a video coming out later this week with a different looking relic process in it that perhaps may offer some inspiration.
I'm definitely in the camp of not artificially relicing a guitar - but I totally respect people doing what they want with their own guitars. That said, I very much appreciate the skill and artistry it takes to relic a guitar correctly, and find it fascinating to watch. Thanks for sharing your work. Great stuff.
I agree with you. However a relic guitar can have a nice smoother comfortable feel. That said, my solution is to buy a bare wood guitar and paint it with some type of natural finish or non glossy finish. It will feel like a smooth version of a relic guitar but look brand new without the false information that it’s an old guitar that’s been to clubs every night for 50 years
This video is amazing. I've only just started watching how to do it, but this definitely the first out of the few I've seen that i want to model my first try after. Very good tutorial. Thank you so much for all the attention to detail and the quality instruction. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Thank you for such a kind comment. I hope all goes well with your project. I do have some other relic videos that might give you some alternate ideas or approaches.
@DevilAndSons thanks for the reply. Have you ever attempted working on an acoustic or know anything about doing that? My nicest guitar came with a pretty thin finish on the top (Adirondack spruce). It has some pick scratches above the sound hole, as well as some other dings and knicks, so I was thinking of refinishing it to enhance the looks, but I don't wanna mess up the way it sounds because it has a really nice tone that I haven't heard from any other guitar. If you have any advice or suggestions on who to watch or how I should proceed, I would very much appreciate it.
@SeeYouNextWednesday I have worked on a few. I would say that I am not an expert on this. I would assume that applying more coats of paint or lacquer would effect the sound on an acoustic, especially if your doing a paint job that involves a lot of paint. However I did finish one with a hand painted acrylic design, then varnished (so relatively thick) and couldn't notice the difference. If you're trying to hide dents it can be quite hard to donit so the finish looks perfect if the dents are big. I just refinished one, for small dents you couldn't see them, bit I the larger area it was noticeable that the lacquer was thicker, although the top was smooth the dent was a good 1mm deep and roughly a circle of 4cm diameter.
@SeeYouNextWednesday someone else may have a good video of fixing an acoustic. For the last problem I mentioned I think you'd normally lay in a thin laminate to fill the gap before finishing.
@DevilAndSons I don't want to hide the dents. I want to do what you did to this electric. I want to strip the gloss and give it more of a satin finish, after making it look even more used and worn than it already does. But in a very tasteful way, like you did in this video.
@@DevilAndSons I absolutely will The 59 is almost done, the 63 state just need wiring and headstock, and working on the L5 tailpiece, it broke at the 90 degree, so I making it a hinged tailpiece!
Wow that's some incredible work! The wood stain at the end really helps solidify the aged appearance. I never would have thought to use the stain on the laquer cracks though. That's a really smart idea that I bet a lot of people don't do. I'd love to try this one day on a beater guitar but I have no idea how to even add a professional looking nitro finish.
Thanks so much. Yes, I think that stain really makes a difference. I actually have a series of videos about spraying a guitar but have yet to do a nitro one. The advantage of doing a relic finish is you could probably get away with some problems in the finish as it may add to the look - so perhaps worth giving it a go without the pressure of trying to get something perfect.
@@DevilAndSons Yes that's true. Plus, it looks really fun to sort of make up a story in your head about the guitar. Like how you gouged out the finish near the bridge like someone was trying to fit a screwdriver there, or with the pickup cover plate making a ring around the pickup. Maybe one day I'll find a cheap used squier or something to try it on.
That looks great! If only Squier someday just released a nitro-finished guitar... I'd love to relic my Classic Vibe but I don't feel like stripping it or adding a nitro layer to it. I've seen other people suggest it but I'd love to see a video on how to relic a complete poly guitar. Either way, lovely job. Very inspiring to watch!
Thanks so much. To be honest my suggestion for poly would be to put a nitro finish on it. The other method is to hand score a nitro style checking into the finish with a scalpel or exacto blade. If ever I do one I will certainly film it.
Personally I think a brown would look good. If you are using paints or stains you already have and your guitar has a part that is hidden (like under a scratchplate) you could experiment. I dark grey or black might look good too.
That turned out really great. I like nice a shiny guitar usually, but I have a custom shop Jag and Jazzmaster that have a very light relic to them… and now I kind of feel like I want one that goes a little further.
@@DevilAndSons I am considering saving for a few years and getting a masterbuilt custom Stratocaster… just an idea I’m playing with. If I decide not to do that I would definitely consider it, but I would maybe practice on something pretty inexpensive first lol. I really like the aged hardware on the relic’d guitars.
Yeah, the hardware definitely adds to it. Picking up a cheap ebay guitar and experimenting can be fun, but saving up for something special is a great idea.
Amazing work! I wanted the look of a reliced guitar once but I guess what I really wanted was for my guitar to show any wear at all with use (nearly impossible with poly). Guitarists are weird. This is great though because it's an art in and of itself!
I have a red relicked.cruiser stratocaster made by crafter. I bought it on cash converters it looks really good and sounds great. It is the only relicked guitar in my possesion.
Funny thing is I have several guitars that are 50 plus years old, and none of them are this beat up. They have dings and checking, but the finish is still shiny and mostly intact. My 90’s strat has more natural wear than my 60’s tele.
I got here 'cause I bought a cheap used stratocaster EXCLUSIVELY to relic it (and if I like it, change the pickups to good ones), but I love reliced guitars, or actually old guitars. I'll come back here after I finish relicing my guitar to tell how it turned out
People don't seem to understand that strapping on a Strat, Tele, or Les Paul and plugging into their tube amp is itself historical reenactment. This just takes it to a more realistic level.
As a retired graphic designer and handy with woodworking, I think I'd be quite good at relicing and actually enjoy the challenge. I hate it though, so I'd never do it! I've owned a blackguard Tele from new in 1982 and it's now lightly reliced with some checking in the nitro finish. All natural though!
My old Les Paul Studio has naturally aged and there tons of micro cracks on the edges. The white finish now has a slight pinkish hue to it. 😂🤣 What’s difficult to do it to get the hardware to age like the real thing. Naturally aged hardware has a nice dull, dirt like layer of oxidisation to it. You done a very nice job 👍👍
I used to hate the idea, but after get annoyed with my shiny guitars, I grew very fond of my mom's old Taylor, Wich she found in someones garbage. It plays great and I love the aged feel.
Brilliant video - thanks! Just bought a super-cheap Squier 'project' tele and think it might be my first relic job. This will definitely be my go-to video...
Thanks so much, that's great to hear. Good luck with your project and if you put any photos up on social media do tag me, I love to see people's builds.
That was on point, man. Great job. Very useful info and your tele looks super. I am just starting the process on my tele and will use this video as my main guide. Theoretically, the whole idea of aging a guitar is inauthentic. However, why not. For many of us, we will never own a classic Fender from the early days, and the look is awesome.
I totally agree, why not? I get a bit frustrated with people that get actually angry about it. Anyway, thanks for leaving the comment and good luck. If you are on social media and end up posting any images do tag me in the comments ( @devilandsons ) as I love seeing other people's work. Good luck.
Currently in the beginning stages of a relic project of my own. Too funny to take all sorts of care to put a finish on only to “destroy it” as you relic it. I think the biggest thing to remember while doing this is to… STOP! If you go too far, it looks too deliberate. Good work dude!
I only like a relic guitar if it looks good if it's done correctly. The best relics I've seen come from the Fender master built collection those things look amazing
I've not seen one in person, but i have seen some other Fender production relics that don't look so good in person, the surface was just really smooth as the top clear coat covered everything evenly.
with a lot of what this is mostly about we will find many of the other types which we didn’t necessarily think might have happened in the first or second or more rarely after we went to much greater lengths for example when we do the other stuff that none of us initially thought about - that’s when we came to know a lot of the sort of thing that naturally came out of the extraordinary extra stuff…
I had intended to do that buy my client decided he didn't want that. Personally I prefer to to protect tye bare wood from getting dirtier and because i like the feel of the finish, but it's a bit less realistic.
That looks great. Not overdone and very realistic. Varying the types of tools used and wear created makes it 'believable', if that's the right word. I got to this channel from a recommendation from Paul at Milehouse Studios, so about to start hoovering up your content. Not sure if you'll see this message on an older vid, but do you have any on relicing/aging a guitar with a poly finish? I've just made one and want to rough it up a little 🤘
Hello, and welcome. That was kind of Paul. I have a playlist on relic work. Essentially all of it works on poly except the checking and I haven't made a video yet about fake checking on poly, although one option is to put a clear layer of nitro on top
Actually I need to neaten up this playlist, it includes demos of guitars as well as how tos, but hopefully there is enough there to help ua-cam.com/play/PLH6eWzz4skg7N1APvUaR4jQzQoPX2yxFt.html&si=Tk_HUDkcxDFFgm4E
@@DevilAndSons Thanks for all that Dan. I'm going to work my way through the playlist and give it a go! For the uninitiated, i.e. me, I think they key is to have something to base the aging on, rather than going in gung-ho the the Dremel and sandpaper. I'll let you know how it all goes. You've also just become 1 of about 4 channels I've set up notifications for, so I'll try and make the livestream with Paul tomorrow. Cheers!
Thank you so much I was interested in the wood die section I like this telecaster builder nacho. He gets a great look on the body, so I’m interested in that look.
Probably can’t do this to well with polyester finished can you but is there a way you can age a poly finish to not look so new to match an older neck that is on a newer body?
You can do all these stages with a poly finish except the final checking/cracking finish. That can be done using a scapel to fake it, or you can spray a layer if clear nitro on top, leave it a month, then do the checking.
I haven't, but I am aiming to do more relic videos soon. You could use the same techniques on the back of the neck. But I would recommend a clear coat over the top to smooth it out a bit.
It is always nice to watch a professional work. You've done a thorough job as always. I would never do it to any of my guitars. I spend a lot of time trying to keep my guitars from looking reliced.
That's a very timely post, I've just been making some test strips of filler and primer to compare for a future video. Here's what I'm thinking... if you want to reveal wood during the relic process and then add stain to it after you have painted the body and reliced it then don't use clear primer or saler as that will effect the ability to add stain. If you want the painted wood to be smooth but with the Relic cracks and areas in then do use filler (the filler won't effect the staining of the wood). If you want your paint to look older and really worn in then don't use filler. I would recommend that for a really heavy relic. Another option would be to use filler but don't be too perfect so you deliberately miss a few areas,, this will mean you'll have some smooth finish and some not so smooth which I think would look really cool.
Honestly it's worth checking, I think some would manage it if you work an area long enough but they definitely don't get as hot (otherwise you'll burn your head).
Amazing video! This was really really helpful, I’ve been working on a strat for a while and couldn’t find the right look for it. I might steal some techniques from you though!
I don't. However I have one coming out next month where I painted a guitar with the same process buy using transparent red instead of the butterscotch.
@@DevilAndSons oh yeah I guess it doesn’t specifically need to be this guitar, just researching on doing a nitro finish and then aging it. Did you do clear, then relic, and then it sounds like you’re saying you did another clear on top of it all?
So actually I also have some new nitro videos I'm working on, and it depends on the finish you want. For a relic this I often don't grain fill or use a primer so some of the wood texture shows through, but really you should do them first. Then colour, then clear, then relic. If you're exposing the bare wood you may want to relic then clear coat, then do the checking. In this video I mentioned clear on top of the checking to seal it in, but I don't actually think that's needed. I've also started using products by Nitorlack, a company that make nitro specific designed to relic. That's what my new videos will be on.
Great look, top marks - my old Bill Nash Blackguard looks like a rush job by comparison when you examine up close but to me it’s really all about the comfort of the neck(with the sanded-away lacquer!) The aesthetics of the light relic butterscotch body finish could be tweaked in various ways you have shown, yes but I may just play the thing.
YOu did a great job, but if I had to critique Id say you should have done one thing that almost everybody doing a heavy relic doesn't do.... You need to "damage" the exposed wood as well. No guitar that had that much aging would have all those dents and scratches etc, and absolutely nothing in the exposed areas. the back where all the buckle rash is should have different tones in it and scratches in the wood. the wood is softer than the paint on most guitars and once the paint was gone it would get more damage than when it actually had paint. Also there should be dents etc, on the bottom and even on the head stock.
Very good points, thanks for adding to the conversation here. I wonder if people like the relic effect to reveal the pristine wood? I've started dirty ingredients up the wood that is exposed but good point to add the dents etc there too.
hey do you know if sanding down the gloss and paint will expose your body to toxic chemicals? I want to sand a strat but Im worried my arm, for example, will be resting on something toxic
As far as I know because it is dry and just flakes it would be something you can potentially breathe in but I don't think it can pass through the skin on you arm as it could when spraying it initially. I'm sorry not to know definitively.
100% you can for everything except the checking/cracks - that method with hot and cold only works on nitro. Sobyou'd have to leave that part out or coat the guitar with some clear nitro and let it settle first.
This is an awesome video. I have a few questions - 1) how did you match the slightly darker blonde color to simulate paint aging? 2) did you put clear coat over the darker paint before distressing it? 3) did you say you used "nicotine spray" to simulate use and dirt around the scratch plate?
Thanks so much. The darker blonde colour was straight from the can. It was all nitro and I didn't put a top clear coat on (I don't remember 100% to be honest,but sometimes I do at the very last stage to protect everything in it's fake aged look). The nicotine spray is actually a nitro translucent color called nicotine, it's a sort of Amber brown colour.
@@DevilAndSons Hi!! Thank you for your response! What I meant about the color question was, how did you go about choosing a compatible darker color? Did you use a color number and knew it would be "just a slightly darker shade of blonde?" Or did you compare the original color with other colors in a shop? Thanks again! Love your work.
Ah. That makes sense. I basically bought a few different colours from the supplier, all the translucent colours they had (I forget now all the names, but vintage Amber and nicotine were two of them) and then the for the main colour it was the one that closest matched the image my client gave me. They were all from Northwest Guitars in the UK. Thanks for watching!
@@DevilAndSons I have 3 factory relic Strat type guitars. First, is you don't have to worry about getting scratches or dings in them. I also have a $5k custom signature ESP guitar that I cringe everytime I get a scratch on it. With my relics I don't care. Second, it just adds character to them. It's like art in a way. What I don't get is why some people get so angry with those who Iike relic guitars? It's not their property. Why should they care what I do with MY guitars? I find it funny when they get so worked up over it. They may like blue or green guitars... I don't care! Why do they feel they should be caring what I like? It'd ridiculous. This Tele turned out nice! Good job.
I agree, I bet those people who hate relics will happily wear stone wash ripped jeans or buy "antique" furniture. Great point about nit being worried, I would be scared to play a $5k guitar! And thanks, I'm really happy with that guitar too.
Can i use compressed air from my big air compressor? ( you know that machine i can pump tires or Air gun laquer stuff) Or does it need to be that compressed can-stuff
Would be great to see a colour over burst heavy relic guitar or bass done like Vincent Van Trigt Master builder from FCS. His look brilliant. and filthy dirty, and very dark dirty nitro on necks and ver faded look on bodies. Do any or these guys use air brushes for detail work? and boot polishes rubbed into very worn areas?
That's something I really want to try. I am making some plans for a series of different paint jobs and that's one I have in mind for sure. I do love the colour over burst look. There are a few different products for guitars that do the boot polish job, i prefer using acrylic paint though, or wood stain. I haven't seen anyone use an airbrush for detailed relic, but it seems like a sensible additional to the options for creating a relic finish. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
One way is Muriatic acid. Nickel goes easier than chrome. Have to scuff the chrome. Put a container of acid into a larger container with the metal you want to age. Cover and wait. 15-20 mins at a shot till you like your look. Be careful and use in a well ventilated area.
I got a "nitro" finsih tele body. Beautifull green metalic color. BUT, first i realise that is really soft, you can put your finger nail print on it very easly(like on some Gibsons). Wich is not bad for a relic job, but that cracking proces does not work? Does it mean its not a REAL nitro? Its some sort of acrylic sont paint? Im not an expert. Can you give me some advice?
That sounds like two things, the nitro hasn't set yet and it's on too thick. It may not be the latter though. How long have you left it since spraying it? I often wait 1 month before working on it. If it's too thick it may take longer.
@@DevilAndSons After almost 2 months its still soft, but it looks like its suck by the wood a little bit, and i like it. I just doubt its a real nitrocellulose (2-componemt laquer) like my guitartech have said firstly.
Thanks for the video I’ve learned a lot from it .... also I have to say I absolutely love your hand tattoos! I’ve never seen anything quite like it before
Hi guys. I would appreciate for any suggestions what to do with a small dent on the neck just on the edge between 2 and 3 fret. My guitar accidentally hit the corner of my desk.😢
Is it on the fretboard or the neck itself? If it's on the bare wood of the fretboard ot maybe easy to fix, if it's on a painted or finished area then it's more complicated.
@@DevilAndSons Thank You for an answer. I've got Fender Performer tele with a satin finished neck. The dent is just at the edge in the place where the fretboard is ending. So technically it is on the fretboard.
@Matiazzak it sounds like that may still be slightly under the satin finish. With a light dent in the finger board you can often add water to it, then apply heat with something like a soldering iron or heated up pallet knife (with a wet rag covering the surface). This allows the wood to slightly expand. You can probably find good examples of this on the Internet, I don't have a video myself. If you have to fix a dent in the satin you can use super glue and sanding. Again there are probably videos of that.
@Matiazzak there's an example in this episode of Luthiers' Lunch Break (the compilation show I put together) about 30 mins in of fixing a fretboard. ua-cam.com/video/L6ogC1S_n-s/v-deo.htmlsi=UUssY1dFZa7bKQ0R
Thanks. Yes, it is a translucent spray, actually called nicotine. I put an old scratchplate and bridge on then lightly spray the area from a bit of an angle, then when you take them off you get the light discolouration around the areas that I imagine would get dirty on a real aged guitar. I hope that helps. The nitro I used on this (I think) was all from northwest guitars in the UK.
Could you relic a Harley Benton TE20 telecaster in black some time. The guitar is not high in cost £77 pound new and £10 delivery cost £87 all together.
I actually think even the budget Harley Bentons are pretty good after a proper set up. Where are you based? I'm in the UK so if you're not the shipping and tax costs would probably make it not worth it.
The best video about relicing I've ever seen. Thank you so much. I only have a question, some guitars have this "slightly shiny" look on the bare wood after wear, which seems to look softer to the touch that the bare (young) natural wood. Do you think it might be helpful to use some kind of oil (tung oil for example?) or could it be that thin coat of final lacquer you mencioned in the video so that "everything remains the same" in the finish over the time? Thanks again for sharing your experience.
I'm really curious about the nicotine spray aging that was briefly mentioned around 9:05, but I can't seem to find a video on your channel about that. Could you point me in that direction or provide some more details on how to do that?
It was a nitro spray from a company called northwest guitars. The colour was called nicotine, and it's translucent. I was able to put it on quite thinly in areas that I thought would look a bit more dirty, and layer it up to make some parts darker than others. I actually mainly use an Amber spray to do that now. A company called nitorlack make a vintage Amber that goes on really lightly to allow for darken by adding more layers. I hope that helps. Do let me know of I can elaborate any more.
@@DevilAndSons I'm working on an aged tele build. I've got a fiesta red undercoat and a french blue top coat. I'm using Nitorlack fast relic nitro as the clear finish, and then an amber tint for some UV simulation. I'm hoping the fast relic nitro will allow me to work through the blue finish in a more natural way than just sanding
That sounds very cool. I have a video about that relic actually. I don't think it will help you work through any better, in face it will make it harder as you'll now have a layer of clear on it. Thee relic is good for making the cracks and checking appear not the wear. I hope that makes sense.
I’ve got a Sunburst Fender Strat and I’m not sure if I should relic it or let time take it course. I really want it to relic over time but part of me knows it would look better if it had that classic SRV/Clapton look to it. Suggestions?
I honestly don't think guitars relic over the time in the way people imagine unless you are a full time musician, where the sweat and beer ands something to the process. You have to play a lot to get wear everywhere and those dents on cool relics surely come from constant moving and travelling- I look after my instruments at home to well to get that many scratches in them. When I used to gig regularly I got the odd knock but I never gigged enough to get a true relic look, more a slightly bashed look. It's hard choice though but I would say if you really want a certain look and aren't bothered about it being 'faked and don't mind doing it on your own guitar then you may as well. Not that helpful an answer perhaps. Let me know what you decide though.
@@DevilAndSons honestly wish I could travel with my guitar enough to wear it in naturally, but sometimes is just really odd cause you'll have on dent here but the rest of the guitar looks brand new. Not to mention, it's not like a skateboard that looks years old within a few sessions, it's an instrument I want to take care of. If I just threw it everywhere then I'd ruin the electronics and tuning keys.
Exactly. You want a road worn look but just don't want to abuse your guitar - I wish some people could grasp that but there are always anti-relic people who say you should do it naturally, I assume they are the kind of person that doesn't look after their guitar as much.
Have you also done some relicing on polyurethane painted guitars? I think it is more challenging and would not give the best effect. Mostly all my guitars are Japanese made, which were known to have the extremely thick paints, if you know what I mean. Please advise, thanks!
I have, and recently I filmed myself doing one and will make a video in the new year. Essentially it's just the same but perhaps you'll need to go a bit deeper to get some of the marks you want. You can't do the checking cracks though unless you mark them by hand with a knife or put a coat of nitro on top and let it settle in for a few weeks then do the heat thing on it.
Hi Daniel hope all's good 4u.l am awaiting delivery of a cheap Tele bridge,hard tail from China with 6 brass barrel saddles.its going on a squire strat that the wrap around didn't sit well on.routing and sinking was a bridge to far 😂 , now l just need to decide which way to go with the pick up,lt has 3 single coils from strat days .think I will chop scratch plate back further keeping neck and middle positions,give it a try before switching to a Tele bridge pick up.cheers for the advice you gave me.
hey jonathan I dont know iif ur gonna see this but I want to relic a white fender player strat with alder body, Is it possible to relic an alder body? Kinda wanna get the white strat from John Frusicante. If its possible please let me know so I can buy it and can get to work. Thank you and nice video!! :)
Hey, thanks for commenting. This relic process is essentially mainly on the finish of the body, so wood doesn't make a difference. If you reveal parts of the wood and want to stain it then the alder shouldn't make a difference. Sometimes there is a clear sealer coat between the wood and the colour coats, that's the only thing that would stop the stain working, you'd gave to sand through that. You wouldn't be able to get the cracked look using the heat process if the paint isn't nitro, in which case I would suggest adding a top coat of clear nitro to the guitar so you can crack that.
Great tutorial. So many "relic" guitars look they've just been attacked with sandpaper and look ridiculous. Your method looks much more convincing. This would be great to test on a cheap guitar from Marketplace 😁
Thanks for saying that. I actually have another video I just put up with a different method that may be worth trying too. ua-cam.com/video/7hTuhBPuQgc/v-deo.html
Yes even some of the Bill Nash guitars have the ‘Shark Bite’ finish where it looks like they just leaned it into a belt sander, big patch down to the bare wood. Reminds me of a shark attacking a surf board.
For me relicing is an art form and when done right is pleasing. Its not for me however. I have a late 1920s archtop by G. J Abbot, London that was used professionally during the big band era. The finish has a natural craquelure but there are no dents or scratches despite its 90 year age. So just because a guitar is old does not mean it is scratched, chipped or dented. That said I have a ten year old Squier Strat and I do like to tinker so maybe I'll try some of these techniques just for the fun of it.
I couldn't agree more, just because it's old doesn't mean it will be dented. I would say if you have a guitar you're not too precious about it's always worth trying, you can always sand back and then try a paintjob on it if you don't like it.
If following steps. The right way is to do lacquer checking first before u scrap /sand the body because after lacquer checking u will dye the body and wipe after it to highlight the checking. If u sand the body first and do the lacquer checking. U will dye unnecessary things like forearm area which we don’t want the dye to be there, because using 2 different colour is much beautiful dark almost black for the lacquer checking n brown for staining the body like the forearm area / definitely don’t want black on that area. Sorry for my English hope u understand.
I think I understand. I check and sand areas first because there is a white undercoat. When I then stain the stain runs into the checked areas to look dark, but on the paint areas if you wipe it off it only colours a bit. I use the stain the darken the white areas as well as the cracks. Also I like the stain to darken the wood so it doesn't look new. You could then sand the wood areas to clean the stain off, and lightly sand the painted areas to make them brighter.
Also, you don't have to put the dye all over the body, you could avoid the forearm area and have no dye there. If there is checking there you can still see it, but not as dark as where the dye is.
For this one i didn't put clear varnish on after, but sometimes I do at the very end to keep everything as it is and make it easy to clean the guitar if it later gets dirty.
The checking cracks only really work with nitro. You can fake it in poly by carefully cutting the check marks, or you could put a top coat of clear nitro onto your guitar.
You can do all this on poly except the checking cracks which only happen with nitro. Some people fake them with a scapel blade but I just put a top coat of clear nitro on first, leave it a few weeks to a month, then it's ready to have the hot cold treatment.
Hey man, great tutorial and fantastic result!! I have a question: do you think coffee would work to fill the nitro cracks instead of woodstain? It's kind off the same color... I tried the stain but it turned out way too dark
Honestly I think you could use anything. Coffee may be less stable than a stain long term and may end up getting cleaned away if you clean the guitar a lot, but it's definitely a cooler choice with a better story to tell. You could always use the coffee then seal it in with a top coat of clear nitro if you really didn't want it change long term. Also, depending on the stain you can normally dilute them with water or a spirit.
Been looking for a video like this. Great job! Would you recommend the same brown and orange dye mixture to fill in the checking on a lighter slightly yellowed blonde finish?
I'm glad you found it. I like the dark colour, and when you wipe it away it can be quite light in areas as it is watery. To me it's what I think the dirt and grime would be like. If you have a bit of the guitar that is to be covered up (like under the scratchplate) you could always experiment there.
Want to relic the hardware? Here's my method
ua-cam.com/video/JzYsZ1Y7NPo/v-deo.htmlsi=AQoCEO2nAjp77sxs
This is by far the best tutorial vid for relicing on youtube. This looks amazing!
Thank you so much for such a nice comment. Are you about to relic a guitar yourself?
@@DevilAndSons I originally planned to but then chickened out. After watching this video it's given me a bit of confidence! I've got a blonde strat with a mint pickguard and I know it's look good with some aging
Cool. Good luck. If you're on social media and put any pictures up please do mention @devilandsons in the comments, I'm always keen to see what other people are making.
Thats the craziest thing ive ever read. are you serious?
Very nicely done! I’ve reliced a few of my builds in the last eight years and I’ve learned something new on each build, reliced or not. The stain at the near end of the process was the icing on the cake for sure and my most valuable take away from this vid! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching. I hope the stain process works for you, I think it really does help give the checking cracks the look of them being old. Have you got a plan for your next guitar yet?
@@DevilAndSons. There are always a few ideas bubbling up. Been pretty busy though lately. I have a Wilkinson Tele kit (alder body/rosewood fretboard) from Stewmac that I’ve been sitting on for almost a year without having approached the assembly yet. I’m not even sure if I’ll use both pickups in the kit or do an Esquire type of thing. Maybe even hide a neck pickup under the pickguard. Or maybe be even more slick and sneak a neck AND middle pickup under the pickguard!
Olympic White? Vintage/Antique White? White Blonde? Frost White? Lake Placid Blue? Sherwood Green? Shoreline Gold? To relic or not to relic??? Decisions, decisions…
@martinthompson2425 cool, I love a hidden pickup. I have a video coming out later this week with a different looking relic process in it that perhaps may offer some inspiration.
damn this is like the best relic tutorial out there
Hey, thanks so much, I really appreciate that.
I'm definitely in the camp of not artificially relicing a guitar - but I totally respect people doing what they want with their own guitars. That said, I very much appreciate the skill and artistry it takes to relic a guitar correctly, and find it fascinating to watch. Thanks for sharing your work. Great stuff.
Thank you for leaving such a nice comment, I'm also surprised by how angry some people get over this issue.
I never saw the added value of relicking, I think that a guitar should develop character over the years.
For so many people that just doesn't happen naturally.
same
I agree with you. However a relic guitar can have a nice smoother comfortable feel. That said, my solution is to buy a bare wood guitar and paint it with some type of natural finish or non glossy finish. It will feel like a smooth version of a relic guitar but look brand new without the false information that it’s an old guitar that’s been to clubs every night for 50 years
This video is amazing. I've only just started watching how to do it, but this definitely the first out of the few I've seen that i want to model my first try after. Very good tutorial. Thank you so much for all the attention to detail and the quality instruction. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Thank you for such a kind comment. I hope all goes well with your project. I do have some other relic videos that might give you some alternate ideas or approaches.
@DevilAndSons thanks for the reply. Have you ever attempted working on an acoustic or know anything about doing that? My nicest guitar came with a pretty thin finish on the top (Adirondack spruce). It has some pick scratches above the sound hole, as well as some other dings and knicks, so I was thinking of refinishing it to enhance the looks, but I don't wanna mess up the way it sounds because it has a really nice tone that I haven't heard from any other guitar. If you have any advice or suggestions on who to watch or how I should proceed, I would very much appreciate it.
@SeeYouNextWednesday I have worked on a few. I would say that I am not an expert on this. I would assume that applying more coats of paint or lacquer would effect the sound on an acoustic, especially if your doing a paint job that involves a lot of paint. However I did finish one with a hand painted acrylic design, then varnished (so relatively thick) and couldn't notice the difference. If you're trying to hide dents it can be quite hard to donit so the finish looks perfect if the dents are big. I just refinished one, for small dents you couldn't see them, bit I the larger area it was noticeable that the lacquer was thicker, although the top was smooth the dent was a good 1mm deep and roughly a circle of 4cm diameter.
@SeeYouNextWednesday someone else may have a good video of fixing an acoustic. For the last problem I mentioned I think you'd normally lay in a thin laminate to fill the gap before finishing.
@DevilAndSons I don't want to hide the dents. I want to do what you did to this electric. I want to strip the gloss and give it more of a satin finish, after making it look even more used and worn than it already does. But in a very tasteful way, like you did in this video.
Wow, that’s dedication replying to every comment for 1 year! Great tutorial and keep up the good work :)
Ha, thanks. There aren't that many comments and honest the interaction with people makes it all worth while - so thank you for commenting.
The dye at the end really made all the work pop! Great work
Thanks. I think that's a really important step.
I bought a factory reliced guitar and loving it.. I have been using it and displayed in our living room. I have the cort sunset tc worn butter 😊
Nice. It's great to have something to display and play.
I'm relicing a 59 Les Paul burst, 63 Fiesta red strat and 62 L5 Archtop at the moment.
I love doing it!
Excellent. It's a surprisingly fun activity once you get into and always tempting to get a bit extreme and do too much. I hope they go well.
@@DevilAndSons
Thanks, so far
SUPER HAPPY!
Great stuff. If you have any photos on social media please do tag me, it's always great to see what people are up to.
@@DevilAndSons
I absolutely will
The 59 is almost done, the 63 state just need wiring and headstock, and working on the L5 tailpiece, it broke at the 90 degree, so I making it a hinged tailpiece!
Cool, thanks. I look forward to seeing them.
The end result looks great. Nice job
Thanks so much. I was very happy with this one, basing the relic on photos of other guitars really makes a difference.
Wow that's some incredible work! The wood stain at the end really helps solidify the aged appearance. I never would have thought to use the stain on the laquer cracks though. That's a really smart idea that I bet a lot of people don't do. I'd love to try this one day on a beater guitar but I have no idea how to even add a professional looking nitro finish.
Thanks so much. Yes, I think that stain really makes a difference. I actually have a series of videos about spraying a guitar but have yet to do a nitro one. The advantage of doing a relic finish is you could probably get away with some problems in the finish as it may add to the look - so perhaps worth giving it a go without the pressure of trying to get something perfect.
@@DevilAndSons Yes that's true. Plus, it looks really fun to sort of make up a story in your head about the guitar. Like how you gouged out the finish near the bridge like someone was trying to fit a screwdriver there, or with the pickup cover plate making a ring around the pickup. Maybe one day I'll find a cheap used squier or something to try it on.
You're right, the story behind it is can be really cool. Good luck when you do try.
That looks great! If only Squier someday just released a nitro-finished guitar... I'd love to relic my Classic Vibe but I don't feel like stripping it or adding a nitro layer to it. I've seen other people suggest it but I'd love to see a video on how to relic a complete poly guitar.
Either way, lovely job. Very inspiring to watch!
Thanks so much. To be honest my suggestion for poly would be to put a nitro finish on it. The other method is to hand score a nitro style checking into the finish with a scalpel or exacto blade. If ever I do one I will certainly film it.
Absolutely great video! I fall into the “love” reliced guitars, and this body turned out great. Thanks for sharing this knowledge!
It's an absolute pleasure, thanks for commenting. I also love a good relic.
My guitar is Sonic Blue. what color stain should I use at the end?
Personally I think a brown would look good. If you are using paints or stains you already have and your guitar has a part that is hidden (like under a scratchplate) you could experiment. I dark grey or black might look good too.
That turned out really great. I like nice a shiny guitar usually, but I have a custom shop Jag and Jazzmaster that have a very light relic to them… and now I kind of feel like I want one that goes a little further.
Thanks. Do you think you may take yours a bit further yourself?
@@DevilAndSons I am considering saving for a few years and getting a masterbuilt custom Stratocaster… just an idea I’m playing with. If I decide not to do that I would definitely consider it, but I would maybe practice on something pretty inexpensive first lol.
I really like the aged hardware on the relic’d guitars.
Yeah, the hardware definitely adds to it.
Picking up a cheap ebay guitar and experimenting can be fun, but saving up for something special is a great idea.
If you enjoy it then go for the relic. I love the bleeding edge new look! This was definitely cool though, great work!
Thanks, and I think that is the best attitude- like what you like and don't hate others if they like what you hate.
Amazing work! I wanted the look of a reliced guitar once but I guess what I really wanted was for my guitar to show any wear at all with use (nearly impossible with poly). Guitarists are weird. This is great though because it's an art in and of itself!
Exactly - modern guitar finishes are so durable that it's hard to get that finish naturally. Thanks for your comment, much appreciated.
I have a red relicked.cruiser
stratocaster made by crafter. I bought it on cash converters it looks really good and sounds great. It is the only relicked guitar in my possesion.
I was about to say will it be your last, then I saw the next post!
Funny thing is I have several guitars that are 50 plus years old, and none of them are this beat up. They have dings and checking, but the finish is still shiny and mostly intact. My 90’s strat has more natural wear than my 60’s tele.
Excellent video. Best one I’ve seen. Cheers!
Cheers, thanks for taking the time to comment- it's ones like that that make it worth while.
It never occured to me to use a dremel...what a great multi-purpose tool for this job.
I think it's great, just be careful not to go too deep or it can look really fake.
I got here 'cause I bought a cheap used stratocaster EXCLUSIVELY to relic it (and if I like it, change the pickups to good ones), but I love reliced guitars, or actually old guitars. I'll come back here after I finish relicing my guitar to tell how it turned out
Hey, welcome. Please do let me know how you get on, and if you need any more tips. Good luck
Nice idea. If I did it myself though, I'd probably inspect it every time I took it out and wonder what I could have done differently or better.
Unfortunately that is what I also do, but I'm doesn't have to mean I'm unhappy with it- just that I want to do more.
I use to hte reliced guitars but Ive grown to like some of them... outside of the astetic, the comfortable lived in aspect, does appeal to me
That's cool that you mind has changed over time. Thanks for watching and commenting
People don't seem to understand that strapping on a Strat, Tele, or Les Paul and plugging into their tube amp is itself historical reenactment. This just takes it to a more realistic level.
What an interesting observation. Thanks for sharing it.
Realy nice done!! I start with a Fender American Performer Telecaster HS and send you my pictures.
Please do, and thanks so much for watching and commenting.
As a retired graphic designer and handy with woodworking, I think I'd be quite good at relicing and actually enjoy the challenge. I hate it though, so I'd never do it! I've owned a blackguard Tele from new in 1982 and it's now lightly reliced with some checking in the nitro finish. All natural though!
I wonder how I'd charge my clients if I went that route, an hourly rate may be excessive?
That is a lot more realistic than most for sure thanks
Thanks so much for commenting. I do hope it is, by basing it on photos of a true relic I can make sure it seems more realistic.
My old Les Paul Studio has naturally aged and there tons of micro cracks on the edges. The white finish now has a slight pinkish hue to it. 😂🤣
What’s difficult to do it to get the hardware to age like the real thing. Naturally aged hardware has a nice dull, dirt like layer of oxidisation to it.
You done a very nice job 👍👍
Thanks so much. I'm actually in the process of filming a relic hardware video, trying to achieve that natural dull look. It's tricky.
@@DevilAndSons … all the best! I’m sure sooner or later you gonna make it look ever so real. 😈
@@hushpuppykl thank you
I used to hate the idea, but after get annoyed with my shiny guitars, I grew very fond of my mom's old Taylor, Wich she found in someones garbage. It plays great and I love the aged feel.
That sounds like a great story for the guitar. Thanks fir sharing
Great video man! When the wood is exposed, with what do you make it darker to achieve the old and sweaty look?
I use wood dye. Sometimes I also use acrylic paint watered down. Just get it a bit uneven and use a few slightly different shades or colours.
Thanks so much, glad you like it
Brilliant video - thanks! Just bought a super-cheap Squier 'project' tele and think it might be my first relic job. This will definitely be my go-to video...
Thanks so much, that's great to hear. Good luck with your project and if you put any photos up on social media do tag me, I love to see people's builds.
That was on point, man. Great job. Very useful info and your tele looks super. I am just starting the process on my tele and will use this video as my main guide. Theoretically, the whole idea of aging a guitar is inauthentic. However, why not. For many of us, we will never own a classic Fender from the early days, and the look is awesome.
I totally agree, why not? I get a bit frustrated with people that get actually angry about it. Anyway, thanks for leaving the comment and good luck. If you are on social media and end up posting any images do tag me in the comments ( @devilandsons ) as I love seeing other people's work. Good luck.
@@DevilAndSons will do brother. I just got a very expensive delivery of legit shell pink nitro, so now I'm ready, to lay down some paint.
Exciting. I like that colour on teles, very cool.
Now that winter is finally over up here, I can paint nitro outside. Can't wait to share my work with you.
Excellent. We had a few sunny days last week and I ended up doing some spraying too, it's so much fun to see things transform. Good luck.
Currently in the beginning stages of a relic project of my own. Too funny to take all sorts of care to put a finish on only to “destroy it” as you relic it.
I think the biggest thing to remember while doing this is to… STOP! If you go too far, it looks too deliberate.
Good work dude!
Stop is a great number one on the list. Too much definitely can look bad. You're right, it is a bit odd and funny to do this whole process.
I only like a relic guitar if it looks good if it's done correctly. The best relics I've seen come from the Fender master built collection those things look amazing
I've not seen one in person, but i have seen some other Fender production relics that don't look so good in person, the surface was just really smooth as the top clear coat covered everything evenly.
@@DevilAndSons Probably depends on the master builder as well
@gscgold absolutely. I forget the name of one of them who I follow on Instagram but his relic work is outstanding
with a lot of what this is mostly about we will find many of the other types which we didn’t necessarily think might have happened in the first or second or more rarely after we went to much greater lengths for example when we do the other stuff that none of us initially thought about - that’s when we came to know a lot of the sort of thing that naturally came out of the extraordinary extra stuff…
Doing other stuff is often a way to open up creativity
great video mate!
Thanks so much. Are you planning a relic job?
Did you clear coat this guitar after the checking and staining? If so, the bare wood areas too?
I had intended to do that buy my client decided he didn't want that. Personally I prefer to to protect tye bare wood from getting dirtier and because i like the feel of the finish, but it's a bit less realistic.
That looks great. Not overdone and very realistic. Varying the types of tools used and wear created makes it 'believable', if that's the right word. I got to this channel from a recommendation from Paul at Milehouse Studios, so about to start hoovering up your content. Not sure if you'll see this message on an older vid, but do you have any on relicing/aging a guitar with a poly finish? I've just made one and want to rough it up a little 🤘
Hello, and welcome. That was kind of Paul.
I have a playlist on relic work. Essentially all of it works on poly except the checking and I haven't made a video yet about fake checking on poly, although one option is to put a clear layer of nitro on top
Actually I need to neaten up this playlist, it includes demos of guitars as well as how tos, but hopefully there is enough there to help
ua-cam.com/play/PLH6eWzz4skg7N1APvUaR4jQzQoPX2yxFt.html&si=Tk_HUDkcxDFFgm4E
And do let me know of you have any questions. Paul's on the livestream I'm doing tomorrow so look out for that.
@@DevilAndSons Thanks for all that Dan. I'm going to work my way through the playlist and give it a go! For the uninitiated, i.e. me, I think they key is to have something to base the aging on, rather than going in gung-ho the the Dremel and sandpaper. I'll let you know how it all goes. You've also just become 1 of about 4 channels I've set up notifications for, so I'll try and make the livestream with Paul tomorrow. Cheers!
@El_Padre_Guitars that is very kind, thank you. Hopefully I can keep up relevant content for you.
Thank you so much I was interested in the wood die section I like this telecaster builder nacho. He gets a great look on the body, so I’m interested in that look.
My pleasure. Happy to help if you need any advice.
Yeah nacho work looks great
@tysonrinker5958 thank you
Beautiful work!
Thanks so much
Probably can’t do this to well with polyester finished can you but is there a way you can age a poly finish to not look so new to match an older neck that is on a newer body?
You can do all these stages with a poly finish except the final checking/cracking finish. That can be done using a scapel to fake it, or you can spray a layer if clear nitro on top, leave it a month, then do the checking.
Great! you got a video on relicing a maple - laquer tele fretboard?
I haven't, but I am aiming to do more relic videos soon. You could use the same techniques on the back of the neck. But I would recommend a clear coat over the top to smooth it out a bit.
I noticed most people that say they can't stand a Relic guitar actually just like the way they sound saying they don't like a relic guitar.
😄 probably very true
It is always nice to watch a professional work. You've done a thorough job as always. I would never do it to any of my guitars. I spend a lot of time trying to keep my guitars from looking reliced.
Ha, thank so much - I agree, I remember the first time I got a dent on one of my guitars how upset I was. Maybe these days I mind less though.
Je bois 3 bières et je fais pareil... d'ou faut être un pro pour saccager une guitare ?
@@JHself
Si vous suivez mes instructions, vous n'êtes pas obligé d'être un pro, vous pouvez même être ivre!
Awesome job man!!!
Thank you. Much appreciated
Should i grain fill before applying nitro lacquer if im gonna relic it?
That's a very timely post, I've just been making some test strips of filler and primer to compare for a future video. Here's what I'm thinking... if you want to reveal wood during the relic process and then add stain to it after you have painted the body and reliced it then don't use clear primer or saler as that will effect the ability to add stain. If you want the painted wood to be smooth but with the Relic cracks and areas in then do use filler (the filler won't effect the staining of the wood). If you want your paint to look older and really worn in then don't use filler. I would recommend that for a really heavy relic. Another option would be to use filler but don't be too perfect so you deliberately miss a few areas,, this will mean you'll have some smooth finish and some not so smooth which I think would look really cool.
Would a hair dryer get it hot enough for the checking?
Honestly it's worth checking, I think some would manage it if you work an area long enough but they definitely don't get as hot (otherwise you'll burn your head).
Amazing video! This was really really helpful, I’ve been working on a strat for a while and couldn’t find the right look for it. I might steal some techniques from you though!
Thanks. This video is here for people to steal techniques from. I hope it goes well.
Some like chocolate some like vanilla it's all about choice just because you don't like it doesn't mean that someone else can't like it 🤟🎸
Spot on! Thanks for leaving that comment.
at 20:30 was that wet sand paper? what removes the sand paper markes?
Yes.i normally start with 800, maybe 600, then go over the marks with finer, normally by 1000/1200 you can't see any marks.
Starts @3:00
I've been streamlining my new videos to start at 00:10
Do you have a video of you doing the PAINTING of this guitar?
I don't. However I have one coming out next month where I painted a guitar with the same process buy using transparent red instead of the butterscotch.
Happy to answer any questions though about the process.
@@DevilAndSons oh yeah I guess it doesn’t specifically need to be this guitar, just researching on doing a nitro finish and then aging it. Did you do clear, then relic, and then it sounds like you’re saying you did another clear on top of it all?
So actually I also have some new nitro videos I'm working on, and it depends on the finish you want. For a relic this I often don't grain fill or use a primer so some of the wood texture shows through, but really you should do them first. Then colour, then clear, then relic. If you're exposing the bare wood you may want to relic then clear coat, then do the checking. In this video I mentioned clear on top of the checking to seal it in, but I don't actually think that's needed. I've also started using products by Nitorlack, a company that make nitro specific designed to relic. That's what my new videos will be on.
Great look, top marks - my old Bill Nash Blackguard looks like a rush job by comparison when you examine up close but to me it’s really all about the comfort of the neck(with the sanded-away lacquer!)
The aesthetics of the light relic butterscotch body finish could be tweaked in various ways you have shown, yes but I may just play the thing.
Whichever way you go I hope you have a great time with it.
@@DevilAndSons - 👍 Bill makes some nice playing guitars! That’s mainly his focus.
I really should check them out.
YOu did a great job, but if I had to critique Id say you should have done one thing that almost everybody doing a heavy relic doesn't do.... You need to "damage" the exposed wood as well. No guitar that had that much aging would have all those dents and scratches etc, and absolutely nothing in the exposed areas. the back where all the buckle rash is should have different tones in it and scratches in the wood. the wood is softer than the paint on most guitars and once the paint was gone it would get more damage than when it actually had paint. Also there should be dents etc, on the bottom and even on the head stock.
Very good points, thanks for adding to the conversation here. I wonder if people like the relic effect to reveal the pristine wood? I've started dirty ingredients up the wood that is exposed but good point to add the dents etc there too.
. New Comment Layer
The dremel is a great idea, i will use that to improve the relic finish on my affinity tele
Cheers!
No worries. Best of luck and do let me know if it helps.
hey do you know if sanding down the gloss and paint will expose your body to toxic chemicals? I want to sand a strat but Im worried my arm, for example, will be resting on something toxic
As far as I know because it is dry and just flakes it would be something you can potentially breathe in but I don't think it can pass through the skin on you arm as it could when spraying it initially. I'm sorry not to know definitively.
Can I relic a stock squire strat body with whatever paint they use to paint it?
Idk if paint matters… lol
100% you can for everything except the checking/cracks - that method with hot and cold only works on nitro. Sobyou'd have to leave that part out or coat the guitar with some clear nitro and let it settle first.
This is an awesome video. I have a few questions - 1) how did you match the slightly darker blonde color to simulate paint aging? 2) did you put clear coat over the darker paint before distressing it? 3) did you say you used "nicotine spray" to simulate use and dirt around the scratch plate?
Thanks so much.
The darker blonde colour was straight from the can. It was all nitro and I didn't put a top clear coat on (I don't remember 100% to be honest,but sometimes I do at the very last stage to protect everything in it's fake aged look). The nicotine spray is actually a nitro translucent color called nicotine, it's a sort of Amber brown colour.
@@DevilAndSons Hi!! Thank you for your response! What I meant about the color question was, how did you go about choosing a compatible darker color? Did you use a color number and knew it would be "just a slightly darker shade of blonde?" Or did you compare the original color with other colors in a shop? Thanks again! Love your work.
Ah. That makes sense. I basically bought a few different colours from the supplier, all the translucent colours they had (I forget now all the names, but vintage Amber and nicotine were two of them) and then the for the main colour it was the one that closest matched the image my client gave me. They were all from Northwest Guitars in the UK. Thanks for watching!
Love relic guitars!
Me too.
What do you like about them? I just live the way it adds personality to a guitar, like giving it a life history.
@@DevilAndSons I have 3 factory relic Strat type guitars.
First, is you don't have to worry about getting scratches or dings in them. I also have a $5k custom signature ESP guitar that I cringe everytime I get a scratch on it. With my relics I don't care.
Second, it just adds character to them. It's like art in a way. What I don't get is why some people get so angry with those who Iike relic guitars? It's not their property. Why should they care what I do with MY guitars? I find it funny when they get so worked up over it. They may like blue or green guitars... I don't care! Why do they feel they should be caring what I like? It'd ridiculous.
This Tele turned out nice! Good job.
I agree, I bet those people who hate relics will happily wear stone wash ripped jeans or buy "antique" furniture.
Great point about nit being worried, I would be scared to play a $5k guitar!
And thanks, I'm really happy with that guitar too.
@@DevilAndSons Jon. Probably do wear those! Thanks a lot!
Nice one mate
Cheers!
Can i use compressed air from my big air compressor? ( you know that machine i can pump tires or Air gun laquer stuff) Or does it need to be that compressed can-stuff
I think the can. Basically it's the cold from the can not the air that does the relic.
By far the best relic tutorial! If I may ask, what is the bit you use on the Dremel?
Thanks so much, I really appreciate that.
I often use a grinding bit, I bought a cheapish set of them on amazon and they come in different sizes and shapes. Sometimes I use engraving bits too.
Would be great to see a colour over burst heavy relic guitar or bass done like Vincent Van Trigt Master builder from FCS.
His look brilliant. and filthy dirty, and very dark dirty nitro on necks and ver faded look on bodies.
Do any or these guys use air brushes for detail work? and boot polishes rubbed into very worn areas?
That's something I really want to try. I am making some plans for a series of different paint jobs and that's one I have in mind for sure. I do love the colour over burst look.
There are a few different products for guitars that do the boot polish job, i prefer using acrylic paint though, or wood stain. I haven't seen anyone use an airbrush for detailed relic, but it seems like a sensible additional to the options for creating a relic finish. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
The picture shows the chrome being aged but this is only the wooden body, is there a hardware aging video. Cheers
I absolutely need to make one. I'm ageing some hardware soon so I'm going to film that process.
One way is Muriatic acid. Nickel goes easier than chrome. Have to scuff the chrome. Put a container of acid into a larger container with the metal you want to age. Cover and wait. 15-20 mins at a shot till you like your look. Be careful and use in a well ventilated area.
It took me a year to make, but here it is
ua-cam.com/video/cZu-8hH-i60/v-deo.html
Probably a bit late for you.
Thanks for adding this info.
I actually did make a video recently
ua-cam.com/video/cZu-8hH-i60/v-deo.html
I got a "nitro" finsih tele body. Beautifull green metalic color. BUT, first i realise that is really soft, you can put your finger nail print on it very easly(like on some Gibsons). Wich is not bad for a relic job, but that cracking proces does not work? Does it mean its not a REAL nitro? Its some sort of acrylic sont paint? Im not an expert. Can you give me some advice?
That sounds like two things, the nitro hasn't set yet and it's on too thick. It may not be the latter though. How long have you left it since spraying it? I often wait 1 month before working on it. If it's too thick it may take longer.
@@DevilAndSons After almost 2 months its still soft, but it looks like its suck by the wood a little bit, and i like it. I just doubt its a real nitrocellulose (2-componemt laquer) like my guitartech have said firstly.
Thanks for the video I’ve learned a lot from it .... also I have to say I absolutely love your hand tattoos! I’ve never seen anything quite like it before
Thanks Dan, and what a great user name. The guy that did them is @tomastomas108 on instagram, you should check him out.
Hi guys. I would appreciate for any suggestions what to do with a small dent on the neck just on the edge between 2 and 3 fret. My guitar accidentally hit the corner of my desk.😢
Is it on the fretboard or the neck itself? If it's on the bare wood of the fretboard ot maybe easy to fix, if it's on a painted or finished area then it's more complicated.
@@DevilAndSons Thank You for an answer. I've got Fender Performer tele with a satin finished neck. The dent is just at the edge in the place where the fretboard is ending. So technically it is on the fretboard.
@Matiazzak it sounds like that may still be slightly under the satin finish. With a light dent in the finger board you can often add water to it, then apply heat with something like a soldering iron or heated up pallet knife (with a wet rag covering the surface). This allows the wood to slightly expand. You can probably find good examples of this on the Internet, I don't have a video myself. If you have to fix a dent in the satin you can use super glue and sanding. Again there are probably videos of that.
@@DevilAndSons Thank You for advice. I will try with a water first
@Matiazzak there's an example in this episode of Luthiers' Lunch Break (the compilation show I put together) about 30 mins in of fixing a fretboard.
ua-cam.com/video/L6ogC1S_n-s/v-deo.htmlsi=UUssY1dFZa7bKQ0R
Awesome video! Is the nicotine staining just an amber-colored clear? It looks awesome! How'd you do it?
Thanks. Yes, it is a translucent spray, actually called nicotine. I put an old scratchplate and bridge on then lightly spray the area from a bit of an angle, then when you take them off you get the light discolouration around the areas that I imagine would get dirty on a real aged guitar. I hope that helps. The nitro I used on this (I think) was all from northwest guitars in the UK.
Could you relic a Harley Benton TE20 telecaster in black some time. The guitar is not high in cost £77 pound new and £10 delivery cost £87 all together.
I actually think even the budget Harley Bentons are pretty good after a proper set up. Where are you based? I'm in the UK so if you're not the shipping and tax costs would probably make it not worth it.
Ive had my DREMEL 8200 for about 8 years, use it every week if not more, never failed me. All I've ever had to do was by an extra battery ..🤷
I must work mine too hard. I've got through 3 of them. One of them had a couple of brush changes too.
The best video about relicing I've ever seen. Thank you so much. I only have a question, some guitars have this "slightly shiny" look on the bare wood after wear, which seems to look softer to the touch that the bare (young) natural wood. Do you think it might be helpful to use some kind of oil (tung oil for example?) or could it be that thin coat of final lacquer you mencioned in the video so that "everything remains the same" in the finish over the time? Thanks again for sharing your experience.
That's the best comment on a video about relicing I've ever seen. Thanks so much.
Yes, I think some oil or lacquer is what is needed for that effect.
I'm really curious about the nicotine spray aging that was briefly mentioned around 9:05, but I can't seem to find a video on your channel about that. Could you point me in that direction or provide some more details on how to do that?
It was a nitro spray from a company called northwest guitars. The colour was called nicotine, and it's translucent. I was able to put it on quite thinly in areas that I thought would look a bit more dirty, and layer it up to make some parts darker than others. I actually mainly use an Amber spray to do that now. A company called nitorlack make a vintage Amber that goes on really lightly to allow for darken by adding more layers. I hope that helps. Do let me know of I can elaborate any more.
@@DevilAndSons Ahhh okay awesome. Thanks!
@@Williams-Guitars no worries. Are you working on something fun?
@@DevilAndSons I'm working on an aged tele build. I've got a fiesta red undercoat and a french blue top coat. I'm using Nitorlack fast relic nitro as the clear finish, and then an amber tint for some UV simulation. I'm hoping the fast relic nitro will allow me to work through the blue finish in a more natural way than just sanding
That sounds very cool. I have a video about that relic actually. I don't think it will help you work through any better, in face it will make it harder as you'll now have a layer of clear on it. Thee relic is good for making the cracks and checking appear not the wear. I hope that makes sense.
How long did you wait to crack the finish with heat and cold ?
I would normally leave the nitro a few days to a week but it would probably would work the following day.
Thank you
It's a pleasure. What are you working on?
72 thin line tele
Very nice. I hope it goes well.
I’ve got a Sunburst Fender Strat and I’m not sure if I should relic it or let time take it course. I really want it to relic over time but part of me knows it would look better if it had that classic SRV/Clapton look to it. Suggestions?
I honestly don't think guitars relic over the time in the way people imagine unless you are a full time musician, where the sweat and beer ands something to the process. You have to play a lot to get wear everywhere and those dents on cool relics surely come from constant moving and travelling- I look after my instruments at home to well to get that many scratches in them. When I used to gig regularly I got the odd knock but I never gigged enough to get a true relic look, more a slightly bashed look. It's hard choice though but I would say if you really want a certain look and aren't bothered about it being 'faked and don't mind doing it on your own guitar then you may as well. Not that helpful an answer perhaps. Let me know what you decide though.
@@DevilAndSons honestly wish I could travel with my guitar enough to wear it in naturally, but sometimes is just really odd cause you'll have on dent here but the rest of the guitar looks brand new. Not to mention, it's not like a skateboard that looks years old within a few sessions, it's an instrument I want to take care of. If I just threw it everywhere then I'd ruin the electronics and tuning keys.
Exactly. You want a road worn look but just don't want to abuse your guitar - I wish some people could grasp that but there are always anti-relic people who say you should do it naturally, I assume they are the kind of person that doesn't look after their guitar as much.
Have you ever restored a reliced guitar to factory finish??
Ha. Yes I have. Some people don't like chips and dents etc in their instruments.
Have you also done some relicing on polyurethane painted guitars? I think it is more challenging and would not give the best effect. Mostly all my guitars are Japanese made, which were known to have the extremely thick paints, if you know what I mean. Please advise, thanks!
I have, and recently I filmed myself doing one and will make a video in the new year. Essentially it's just the same but perhaps you'll need to go a bit deeper to get some of the marks you want. You can't do the checking cracks though unless you mark them by hand with a knife or put a coat of nitro on top and let it settle in for a few weeks then do the heat thing on it.
Hi Daniel hope all's good 4u.l am awaiting delivery of a cheap Tele bridge,hard tail from China with 6 brass barrel saddles.its going on a squire strat that the wrap around didn't sit well on.routing and sinking was a bridge to far 😂 , now l just need to decide which way to go with the pick up,lt has 3 single coils from strat days .think I will chop scratch plate back further keeping neck and middle positions,give it a try before switching to a Tele bridge pick up.cheers for the advice you gave me.
No worries, always happy to help. That sounds like it will be pretty cool. If you're on social medias please do share a photo with me.
Gran trabajo, excelente !!
Cheers!
God... i do love your Handtattoo. ❤ also good job.
Thanks so much. The tattoo is bt Tomastomas108 on Instagram, go check him out.
Great job I'd love tou to do one for me someday
Thanks so much, I'd love too. Have you got a particular guitar in mind... for the future of course.
hey jonathan I dont know iif ur gonna see this but I want to relic a white fender player strat with alder body, Is it possible to relic an alder body? Kinda wanna get the white strat from John Frusicante. If its possible please let me know so I can buy it and can get to work. Thank you and nice video!! :)
Hey, thanks for commenting. This relic process is essentially mainly on the finish of the body, so wood doesn't make a difference. If you reveal parts of the wood and want to stain it then the alder shouldn't make a difference. Sometimes there is a clear sealer coat between the wood and the colour coats, that's the only thing that would stop the stain working, you'd gave to sand through that. You wouldn't be able to get the cracked look using the heat process if the paint isn't nitro, in which case I would suggest adding a top coat of clear nitro to the guitar so you can crack that.
Great tutorial. So many "relic" guitars look they've just been attacked with sandpaper and look ridiculous. Your method looks much more convincing. This would be great to test on a cheap guitar from Marketplace 😁
Thanks for saying that. I actually have another video I just put up with a different method that may be worth trying too. ua-cam.com/video/7hTuhBPuQgc/v-deo.html
And yes, experimenting on a cheap guitar is a great way to try things out.
Yes even some of the Bill Nash guitars have the ‘Shark Bite’ finish where it looks like they just leaned it into a belt sander, big patch down to the bare wood. Reminds me of a shark attacking a surf board.
Perhaps the shark bite finish could be a new thing? Thanks for watching and commenting
For me relicing is an art form and when done right is pleasing. Its not for me however. I have a late 1920s archtop by G. J Abbot, London that was used professionally during the big band era. The finish has a natural craquelure but there are no dents or scratches despite its 90 year age. So just because a guitar is old does not mean it is scratched, chipped or dented. That said I have a ten year old Squier Strat and I do like to tinker so maybe I'll try some of these techniques just for the fun of it.
I couldn't agree more, just because it's old doesn't mean it will be dented. I would say if you have a guitar you're not too precious about it's always worth trying, you can always sand back and then try a paintjob on it if you don't like it.
If following steps. The right way is to do lacquer checking first before u scrap /sand the body because after lacquer checking u will dye the body and wipe after it to highlight the checking. If u sand the body first and do the lacquer checking. U will dye unnecessary things like forearm area which we don’t want the dye to be there, because using 2 different colour is much beautiful dark almost black for the lacquer checking n brown for staining the body like the forearm area / definitely don’t want black on that area. Sorry for my English hope u understand.
I think I understand.
I check and sand areas first because there is a white undercoat. When I then stain the stain runs into the checked areas to look dark, but on the paint areas if you wipe it off it only colours a bit. I use the stain the darken the white areas as well as the cracks. Also I like the stain to darken the wood so it doesn't look new. You could then sand the wood areas to clean the stain off, and lightly sand the painted areas to make them brighter.
Also, you don't have to put the dye all over the body, you could avoid the forearm area and have no dye there. If there is checking there you can still see it, but not as dark as where the dye is.
For this one i didn't put clear varnish on after, but sometimes I do at the very end to keep everything as it is and make it easy to clean the guitar if it later gets dirty.
I hope this has helped, but do ask more questions if you have some.
Also, you could test the dye on a bit of the body you can't see when finished, like the scratch plate.
Wow. killer work!
Cheers. Thanks for taking the time to comment
Great job man
Thanks so much. I was particularly happy with how this one turned out.
Good vidya, very informative. Thanks
Thanks so much.
If your guitar is not sprayed with nitro can it still be done?
The checking cracks only really work with nitro. You can fake it in poly by carefully cutting the check marks, or you could put a top coat of clear nitro onto your guitar.
Nice work!! Do you have some pictures of the complete, finished job? I'd like to see them.
Never mind, I am seeing them on your Facebook page..nice job!!
Cheers. I probably should have put some in the video.
What is this kinda spray??
The cold spray? It's just an air spray. The kind you might use to clean a computer keyboard.
Wow did you relic the ferrule holes so far out of allignment? superb work.
Are they? I really only painted and reliced this one so that's how they came into my workshop.
I assume you need to strip the poly and paint off of guitars that are poly finished?
You can do all this on poly except the checking cracks which only happen with nitro. Some people fake them with a scapel blade but I just put a top coat of clear nitro on first, leave it a few weeks to a month, then it's ready to have the hot cold treatment.
Hey man, great tutorial and fantastic result!! I have a question: do you think coffee would work to fill the nitro cracks instead of woodstain? It's kind off the same color... I tried the stain but it turned out way too dark
Honestly I think you could use anything. Coffee may be less stable than a stain long term and may end up getting cleaned away if you clean the guitar a lot, but it's definitely a cooler choice with a better story to tell. You could always use the coffee then seal it in with a top coat of clear nitro if you really didn't want it change long term. Also, depending on the stain you can normally dilute them with water or a spirit.
...and thanks for the comment. Glad you like the result.
@@DevilAndSons Thanks for the reply man! Coffee it is!
Ha. Let me know how you get on.
Great to see how it’s done.
Thanks so much for leaving a comment Wilson.
Been looking for a video like this. Great job! Would you recommend the same brown and orange dye mixture to fill in the checking on a lighter slightly yellowed blonde finish?
I'm glad you found it.
I like the dark colour, and when you wipe it away it can be quite light in areas as it is watery. To me it's what I think the dirt and grime would be like. If you have a bit of the guitar that is to be covered up (like under the scratchplate) you could always experiment there.
Great video
Thanks so much for taking the time to comment.
Looks good imo! Enjoyed your video :) what else to do on a rainy Saturday.. ;) peace!
Thanks for letting me know. Sadly I spend way too much time on youtube, not just those rainy days - so much good stuff.
@@DevilAndSons me too but I wanted to mention the rainy day here in germany lol
Well I'm glad i could help distract from the rain
As long as it‘s my own guitar I can do everything with it I‘d like to. And if it feels better afterwards…
What have you done with yours?