I just installed my 30A DC to DC this evening and now I'm watching your video. Good stuff. What got me confused was using bus bars. I've yet to install a fuse panel or an inverter but have the basic system going with fuses. I'm going to wait until the battery light is green meaning its fully charged and move onto to adding things. So far, I'm impressed with this unit. I'm using the DC home app and on it's maiden voyage it is saying its pushing 29.5 Amps from the alternator. The thing with the bus bar positive is to not run it to the bus bar but to an ANL fuse and starter battery positive. I also found headlight dimming disappeared and the vehicle is behaving like its had a big 3 installed.
Perfect timing for me! I'm just busy confusing myself with 12v electrics so this has helped massively. Looking forward to see where you end up with this van .
Hi Dave, great video. I’ve identified a fuse to connect the IGN wire to that only goes live when the ignition is on but it is the headlight fuse. Does it matter if the voltage through this fuse varies depending on whether the the headlights are on or not? There are side lights on always, the voltage will only change when I put the full headlights on so not sure if this would be an issue or not. Would be very grateful for your help! Thanks
Hi Hugo, I think so long as the circuit is dead when the ignition is off this will disconnect the two batteries and so long as there is some voltage when the ignition is on it should notify the unit that the engine is running. I cant remember which circuit I used in this installation. But so long as there is some voltage - amps running when the engine is on it should be good. Hope that helps.
love your videos Dave very informative for me ,im just starting my conversion of my vivaro 2018. im wondering if you could advise me on the size and type of wires,fuse and breakers that you used for this set up. ill be using 1x 175w solar panel and 1 x 100ah lithium leisure battery connected to the 50v renogy unit like yours hope you can help
Hi, I used 10mm2 cable for the battery connections and 1.5mm2 for the lights etc and some 2.5mm2 for anything which pulls more amps with a 50amp breaker between the battery and fuse box and another on the solar feed. Hope that helps.
@dave-watson thanks dave And the smart alternator green connection plugs into the renolgy unit and the other end into a fuse in the drivers side fuse board?
Hi, thanks for the videos they have been really helpful, can I ask which fuse you used for the piggyback fuse for the ignition part of the renogy dc to dc charger, I have the same van I'm just looking for the fuse number or description, many thanks
Thats a good question and I can't remember which fuse it was.....I think it was a 5amp one and I tested many of the fuses in the fusebox with a meter to find one that went live when I started the van n and went dead with the van turned off....that was the only way I could think of to find one. Hope that helps.
Hi Dave, good explanation of the set up. I’m considering the 50 amp version. Does yours split the charge 50/50? So the solar gives up to 15 amps and the alternator 15 amps? And when you switch off the solar do you get the full 30 amps from the alternator (starter battery) when the engine is running ?Thanks.
Hi Mike, The short answer is I don't know. I think the unit is set to solar priority so it will use mainly solar when the sun is strong and use mainly alternator when there is little sun, and I think it varies the charge from each depending upon the conditions. I could be wrong about that but I think I recall setting it up that way. Hope that helps.
Hi Dave, great video! I've just bought the same Renogy as yourself , can I ask what amp the second fuse is rated at when you piggyback''d from the dash? Cheers mate
Hi Jordan, I used the same rating as the fuse i put the piggyback holder in. If I recall correctly I found a 5amp fuse that went live when the van was running and dead when it was switched off so I used the same 5amp fuse in the piggy back. I would go for matching the fuse with the one the piggy back is connected to. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching.
Dave Thank you so much for the response, Iv'e been sat in the van online all day trying to find answers lol much appreciated matey, thanks for the videos they're great! @@dave-watson
Hi, I just bought this mmpt dc/dc charger and I would like to know if it needs to be in a place where it's cool or have ventillation? Does it get hot and is it noisy? Sorry for all those questions but I have a car (Kangoo maxxi) that I change into a van and so I don't have much room. Thanks for the great video
Hi Julian, The renogy unit connects to the started battery but needs another wire going to the ignition circuit so that the unit knows when the van is running. I used a "piggy back" fuse holder connected to one of the fuses in the main van fuse box which goes live when the van is running and is dead when the van is switched off. You have to test the fuses with a volt meter to find one which is dead when the van is off and live when it's on. Then use the "piggy back" fuse holder to connect the renogy unit into that fuse. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching
Hi Dave, did you use a sealed lead acid battery or a flooded lead acid battery(which needs topping up)? Also when choosing battery type it says green for SLA (sealed lead acid) and red for FLD (flooded lead acid) did you set yours to red for flooded lead acid? Thanks.
Were you able to get a 16mm2 cable (about 8.3mm diameter) through the bonnet release grommet or did you have a narrower cable? Really useful video series, thanks!
Hi, If I remember correctly, renogy recommended the 10mm2 cable and that went through the bonnet grommet no problem, I think you could get the larger cable through it too, there was quite a bit of space.
Hi Dave, great stuff! Is your Trafic the newer model with the battery under the bonnet? I wondered if you had any info for wiring up the starter battery and running the cables back in to the main van area.
Hi Rachel, Yes the van is a 2017 with the battery under the bonnet. If you follow the bonnet release cable from inside the cab, you will find it goes through a rubber seal and into the engine bay. I made a couple of small holes in it and fed the cables through to the started battery. Then I tucked them under the trim in the cab and under the top lip of the plastic step cover. They came out behind the passenger seat. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
It goes to any circuit which goes live when the van is running.....I found one in the fuse box and used a piggy back fuse holder to connect it. You just have to check the fuses with a meter to see which one is dead with the van off and live with it on.
Hi dave I love what you do with your vans I'm coming up to the wiring now on my vauxhall vivaro on my channel can you point me in the right direction for wire and what sort of gauge I need also any links to any uniil need? Reguards Gary
Hi Gary, Thanks for watching. I don't have a detailed video about wire gauge etc But this guy does ua-cam.com/video/koFg6oFs0RU/v-deo.html He's got a great series of videos about van electrics. I have found the Renogy unit to be very good, easy to fit and does what it should. But check Greg Virgoe out his videos helped me a lot. Hope that helps. Dave
Hi, I think he 30amp relates to the charge coming from the solar. I usually put a 130amp hour battery in my vans and I've found that to be okay but more battery power would be okay too so long as the solar is not generating more than the 30 amps. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
Hi, So far as I recall the instructions that came with the unit did call for the positive and negative connecting between the two batteries. Electronics is not my strong point so I usually just go with the diagrams that come with the kit. Hope that helps.
The fuse came with the kit and if I remember correctly it was a 50amp and there is another one on the same wire just before it goes into the Dc-DC unit and I think that was 50amp too.
Hi, Yes I used 10mm2 or 8awg cable and I used the fuse which came with the unit and put another 50amp fuse close to the connection to the started battery.
I’m sorry to be pestering, I bought some “10mm2 8awg” cable…and a crimping tool with some lugs off amazon…..many failed crimps later (SC6-8) with tool set to 6 seems to work, all just testing by the way, all the failures were SC25-8 and down, the only reasons I started there was the Renogy unit came with 4 of the above so I assumed “-8” referred to awg, I now see that’s the ring size so I guess my question is is sc6-8* lug the correct size for what I’m lead to believe is 10mm2 8awg cable ? I’m at my wits end and I’m usually pretty good with electronics, (I’ve done micro surgery on iPhones😅 but this wire sizing imperial x metric is frying my brain and potentially my van 😂
Hi, I think the 6 or 8 refers to the diameter if the hole which fits over the terminal. I also had problems with the crimping and just kept on using a smaller size on the crimping tool until it got a good solid hold on the lug. Hope that helps.
Hi, The solar is not earthed, there s just the live and negative. But the negative from the renogy unit is fixed to bare metal on the side of the van. Thanks for watching
@@dave-watson hi thank you for the reply. I have the negative from the leisure battery and starter battery and the solar all going to the top right of the charge controller is that Wright?
Thanks very much Mike....I think that quote was from George Bernard Shaw...but don't quote me on that. Thanks for watching more conversion videos to come.
![How to Install a Renogy 50A Dual Input DC to DC Battery Charger [Installation & Testing]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RSwoi2vh094/mqdefault.jpg)
Great vid - thanks. I have been using the same unit for around 2 years and I can't fault it! Keeps me off grid most of the time.
Thanks a lot....yes the renogy unit is very good....I've fitted 5 of them in different vans and never had a problem.
I just installed my 30A DC to DC this evening and now I'm watching your video. Good stuff. What got me confused was using bus bars. I've yet to install a fuse panel or an inverter but have the basic system going with fuses. I'm going to wait until the battery light is green meaning its fully charged and move onto to adding things. So far, I'm impressed with this unit. I'm using the DC home app and on it's maiden voyage it is saying its pushing 29.5 Amps from the alternator. The thing with the bus bar positive is to not run it to the bus bar but to an ANL fuse and starter battery positive. I also found headlight dimming disappeared and the vehicle is behaving like its had a big 3 installed.
Perfect timing for me! I'm just busy confusing myself with 12v electrics so this has helped massively. Looking forward to see where you end up with this van .
Good, the 12v electrics can be a bit daunting. There is a chap called Greg Virgoe who has done some good videos on electrics.
Hi Dave, great video. I’ve identified a fuse to connect the IGN wire to that only goes live when the ignition is on but it is the headlight fuse. Does it matter if the voltage through this fuse varies depending on whether the the headlights are on or not? There are side lights on always, the voltage will only change when I put the full headlights on so not sure if this would be an issue or not. Would be very grateful for your help! Thanks
Hi Hugo, I think so long as the circuit is dead when the ignition is off this will disconnect the two batteries and so long as there is some voltage when the ignition is on it should notify the unit that the engine is running. I cant remember which circuit I used in this installation. But so long as there is some voltage - amps running when the engine is on it should be good. Hope that helps.
Hi Dave, excellent video, what cable sizes did you use . many thanks
The main connecting cables are 10mm2.
Sunny South Shields😊 My original home town.
love your videos Dave very informative for me ,im just starting my conversion of my vivaro 2018.
im wondering if you could advise me on the size and type of wires,fuse and breakers that you used for this set up.
ill be using 1x 175w solar panel and 1 x 100ah lithium leisure battery connected to the 50v renogy unit like yours
hope you can help
Hi, I used 10mm2 cable for the battery connections and 1.5mm2 for the lights etc and some 2.5mm2 for anything which pulls more amps with a 50amp breaker between the battery and fuse box and another on the solar feed. Hope that helps.
@@dave-watson thanks for that information yes that is very helpful cheers
Hi again Dave sorry to bother you again,could I ask where and what fuse did you connect the smart alternator cable to please?
@@riley135 I used a 50amp fuse close to the starter battery connection and the renogy unit came with another to place in line close to the unit.
@dave-watson thanks dave
And the smart alternator green connection plugs into the renolgy unit and the other end into a fuse in the drivers side fuse board?
Hi, thanks for the videos they have been really helpful, can I ask which fuse you used for the piggyback fuse for the ignition part of the renogy dc to dc charger, I have the same van I'm just looking for the fuse number or description, many thanks
Thats a good question and I can't remember which fuse it was.....I think it was a 5amp one and I tested many of the fuses in the fusebox with a meter to find one that went live when I started the van n and went dead with the van turned off....that was the only way I could think of to find one. Hope that helps.
Hi Dave, good explanation of the set up. I’m considering the 50 amp version. Does yours split the charge 50/50? So the solar gives up to 15 amps and the alternator 15 amps? And when you switch off the solar do you get the full 30 amps from the alternator (starter battery) when the engine is running ?Thanks.
Hi Mike, The short answer is I don't know. I think the unit is set to solar priority so it will use mainly solar when the sun is strong and use mainly alternator when there is little sun, and I think it varies the charge from each depending upon the conditions. I could be wrong about that but I think I recall setting it up that way. Hope that helps.
Hi Dave, great video!
I've just bought the same Renogy as yourself , can I ask what amp the second fuse is rated at when you piggyback''d from the dash?
Cheers mate
Hi Jordan, I used the same rating as the fuse i put the piggyback holder in. If I recall correctly I found a 5amp fuse that went live when the van was running and dead when it was switched off so I used the same 5amp fuse in the piggy back. I would go for matching the fuse with the one the piggy back is connected to. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching.
Dave Thank you so much for the response,
Iv'e been sat in the van online all day trying to find answers lol
much appreciated matey, thanks for the videos they're great!
@@dave-watson
Hi, I just bought this mmpt dc/dc charger and I would like to know if it needs to be in a place where it's cool or have ventillation?
Does it get hot and is it noisy?
Sorry for all those questions but I have a car (Kangoo maxxi) that I change into a van and so I don't have much room.
Thanks for the great video
It will need some ventilation, they don't get hot but a bit of airflow is recommended. And they are silent running.
@@dave-watson thanks à lot
Hi great video I am not sure how you connect the alternator you showed some think about the fuse box. Would appreciate your help. Thanks julian
Hi Julian, The renogy unit connects to the started battery but needs another wire going to the ignition circuit so that the unit knows when the van is running. I used a "piggy back" fuse holder connected to one of the fuses in the main van fuse box which goes live when the van is running and is dead when the van is switched off. You have to test the fuses with a volt meter to find one which is dead when the van is off and live when it's on. Then use the "piggy back" fuse holder to connect the renogy unit into that fuse. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching
@@dave-watsonthat great Dave thank you for your help much appreciate great video. 👍👍
Hi Dave, did you use a sealed lead acid battery or a flooded lead acid battery(which needs topping up)? Also when choosing battery type it says green for SLA (sealed lead acid) and red for FLD (flooded lead acid) did you set yours to red for flooded lead acid? Thanks.
I think the battery I used was sealed, and I set the unit to match.
Were you able to get a 16mm2 cable (about 8.3mm diameter) through the bonnet release grommet or did you have a narrower cable? Really useful video series, thanks!
Hi, If I remember correctly, renogy recommended the 10mm2 cable and that went through the bonnet grommet no problem, I think you could get the larger cable through it too, there was quite a bit of space.
@@dave-watson Thanks very much! I've just had some cable delivered so shall be trying it very soon.
Hi, can you remember where you got the leisure battery post connectors from? Thanks
I got them from Halfords
Hi Dave, great stuff! Is your Trafic the newer model with the battery under the bonnet? I wondered if you had any info for wiring up the starter battery and running the cables back in to the main van area.
Hi Rachel, Yes the van is a 2017 with the battery under the bonnet. If you follow the bonnet release cable from inside the cab, you will find it goes through a rubber seal and into the engine bay. I made a couple of small holes in it and fed the cables through to the started battery. Then I tucked them under the trim in the cab and under the top lip of the plastic step cover. They came out behind the passenger seat. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Where does the other end of the ignition cable connect pease m8 im doing this next week , cant find a video on it yours the closest ?
It goes to any circuit which goes live when the van is running.....I found one in the fuse box and used a piggy back fuse holder to connect it. You just have to check the fuses with a meter to see which one is dead with the van off and live with it on.
Hi dave I love what you do with your vans I'm coming up to the wiring now on my vauxhall vivaro on my channel can you point me in the right direction for wire and what sort of gauge I need also any links to any uniil need?
Reguards
Gary
Hi Gary, Thanks for watching. I don't have a detailed video about wire gauge etc But this guy does
ua-cam.com/video/koFg6oFs0RU/v-deo.html
He's got a great series of videos about van electrics.
I have found the Renogy unit to be very good, easy to fit and does what it should.
But check Greg Virgoe out his videos helped me a lot.
Hope that helps.
Dave
@@dave-watson cheers dave keep the builds coming 👍🏻
Good afternoon. What should be the recommended capacity of the second battery (A/h) for a 30 A dc dc + mppt charger. thanks
Hi, I think he 30amp relates to the charge coming from the solar. I usually put a 130amp hour battery in my vans and I've found that to be okay but more battery power would be okay too so long as the solar is not generating more than the 30 amps. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
Hi. Do i jeed the negative back to.the starter battery if i have an earth point under my driver seat ? (Vw t6)
Hi, So far as I recall the instructions that came with the unit did call for the positive and negative connecting between the two batteries. Electronics is not my strong point so I usually just go with the diagrams that come with the kit. Hope that helps.
What size fuse did you use from the starter battery to the controller?
The fuse came with the kit and if I remember correctly it was a 50amp and there is another one on the same wire just before it goes into the Dc-DC unit and I think that was 50amp too.
hi dave, just wondering if you have used the 30A or 50A renogy dc - dc charger?
Hi Aly, It's the 30A one.
Subscribed
Thanks a lot Darren
where did you get the batt' monitor? brand name?
Hi, I got the monitor with the renogy unit, it's an add on option on their web site. It works great.
Hi, did you use 8awg wire? Like the book recommends 1-5m”
Also could you say what size anl fuses you used please 🙏
Hi, Yes I used 10mm2 or 8awg cable and I used the fuse which came with the unit and put another 50amp fuse close to the connection to the started battery.
@@dave-watson thank you
I’m sorry to be pestering, I bought some “10mm2 8awg” cable…and a crimping tool with some lugs off amazon…..many failed crimps later (SC6-8) with tool set to 6 seems to work, all just testing by the way, all the failures were SC25-8 and down, the only reasons I started there was the Renogy unit came with 4 of the above so I assumed “-8” referred to awg, I now see that’s the ring size so I guess my question is is sc6-8* lug the correct size for what I’m lead to believe is 10mm2 8awg cable ?
I’m at my wits end and I’m usually pretty good with electronics, (I’ve done micro surgery on iPhones😅 but this wire sizing imperial x metric is frying my brain and potentially my van 😂
Hi, I think the 6 or 8 refers to the diameter if the hole which fits over the terminal. I also had problems with the crimping and just kept on using a smaller size on the crimping tool until it got a good solid hold on the lug. Hope that helps.
@@dave-watson very much so, thanks
Can you earth the solar to the renogy unit
Hi, The solar is not earthed, there s just the live and negative. But the negative from the renogy unit is fixed to bare metal on the side of the van. Thanks for watching
@@dave-watson hi thank you for the reply. I have the negative from the leisure battery and starter battery and the solar all going to the top right of the charge controller is that Wright?
Yes so far as I can recall All of the negatives went to the one terminal and then another from the same terminal to the bare metal of the van.
@@dave-watson thanks for the reply all good now 👍happy camping 😎
What size is the brackers
Hi James, Which bracket do you mean?
@@dave-watson sorry was meaning breakers
Hi James. The breakers were 50 amp.@@james1466
Clearly you are brilliant but we are "two peoples separated by a Common Language." 😂 Churchill?
Thanks very much Mike....I think that quote was from George Bernard Shaw...but don't quote me on that. Thanks for watching more conversion videos to come.